► MK V located here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3296793/files Does not use POE brick. Intended for standalone use with USB flash drive storage or for Pi 3 B+ with POE hat.
Well I designed another camera. This is based on the camera and Pi mount from the MKIII, but I changed it up so that the Pi plate uses shorter 3mm screws - 20mm should work fine - to attach to the camera plate. Added counterbored holes to the bottom of the Pi plate too, and a grid for zip tie attachment to the cam plate. Made the O-ring groove on around the camera lens bigger so it should print easier. Supports needed on cam plate and Pi plate, but there won't be many, just in the counterbores and clip slots on the Pi plate, and in the holes for the IR lights and the O-ring groove on the cam plate. The zip tie grid shouldn't need any. As always print the PiPlate Clips laying down so the layer lines won't weaken them. Same for the hood, print with the back surface on the build plate so the layer lines run along the clips, not across them.
Totally redesigned the case, integrated the ball mount into the casing itself, made it go together with shorter 3mm screws instead of the ridiculously long screws of the previous model. The case walls are all much thicker for a more rugged camera. Includes a clip on hood to fit either model for outdoor use, just use either urethane windshield glue or silicone to seal around the 1/8 plexiglass or glass located in the recess on the front, and put a little silicone in the groove on the back for the raised lip to press against when the unit is assembled.
The plain backplate for the bottom mount case can print laying on its back with only support in the screw head counterbores. The bottom mount front however will need more support due to the ball sticking out of the side. The rear mount front will need no supports, but the rear mount back will, since it will have to print rear face up due to the ball. The ball needs no support, only to build plate to accommodate the recess in the middle. The hoods will need supports, but not on the chamfers at the bottom, only in the slots up either side of the clips. They're just 1mm wide so support should easily pull out. The clamps and nut won't need support. The mounting plates will need support to build plate only for the recess under the bottom, this recess makes it sit more nicely against a finished wall, it's only 1mm deep.
The mounting ring and the clamps are still the same, they worked perfectly on the MKIII so no need.
Zip tie the POE splitter in the extra space next to the Pi, the part with the round holes is here for this reason.
Alternatively you could just run the power wire for the Pi through the mount and use either the Pi3's built in WiFi. Or you could make a standalone unit by using a USB jump drive in the USB port of the Pi, the Piplate gives some clearance below the ports, though there's only about 20mm or so room inside the case to extend past the Ports. A Pi2 could use a USB WiFi dongle, and if set up as a DHCP host then you could have it act as a gamecam, recording motion events to USB jump drive, and then you just access it with your phone or PC through WiFi to retrieve pictures/videos.
I'll be printing this model out this weekend, but everything should fit together pretty well. The PiPlate and cam plate are proven to work, only small changes were made to these for this model.
The MKIII didn't have a heat buildup problem, but admittedly I didn't get to use it very much before I sold my other house. This case is much thicker so it could become a concern, especially with the LEDs lit. I'll just have to try it. If so I may have to come up with some sort of way to have a heatsink inside and outside with a thin wall sandwiched between them, though the camera will have to become larger to fit this of course. I may design a MKV with thinner walls, but I like the thickness on this one for ruggedness outdoors where it may get bumped.
Edit: TinkerCAD didn't like the parts for the BottomMount models, updated.
► Fits RPi 2 and 3
► Fits Waveshare Camera
► Use a 21mm x 2.5mm or so O-ring around camera lens as a light dam, this will cut out glare from the IR LEDs. Alternatively some black silicone could probably be put into the groove as a small bead, but let it cure completely before assembly so the camera isn't glued together.
► 3mm x 20mm screws should work for all attachment, holes were made deeper than needed so longer screws may fit. All holes modeled at 2.8mm. They should tap their own holes, if holes are too tight from your printer you can run a tap down them just fine.
► The groove around the edge of the recess on the back plate is for a seal. Fill it with silicone up even to the level of the recess and let it cure before assembly.
► There is room to plug USB dongles into the ports of the PI, though they should be smallish.
► This POE splitter should fit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Active-PoE-Splitter-Power-Over-Ethernet-48V-to-5V-2-4A-Micro-USB-4-Raspberry-QH/292334777337?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
► This is my camera module http://a.co/5qq4F5M
► All parts of the case are pretty thick and beefy, but infill percentage can make up for this. I would print at as high a temp as I could for layer adhesion bonus so it will be more waterproof. Maybe throw some silica gel inside too.