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Belt (print in place, customizable, MMU design)

by 3DWatsch Dec 15, 2018
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is the test print now in version 2.2? and is the costomizer version 2.2

You can find all the files and the costomizer here:


Belt Version 2.2

Hello! I am trying to print but everytime I try to preview in S3D for printing, S3D crashes. I was able to print the test belt but if I try an actual belt then it crashes or only renders the model halfway and the rest is ghosted

Sorry, I've never worked with S3D so I can't comment on that.
But you should really switch to the version 2.2 belt:

Belt Version 2.2

Hi Wachti,
supergeiles Design.
Vielleicht hast mal Zeit über das Thema 3D Druck/Design "fachzusimmeln".

Hey Maxx! Danke :) Jo fix! Da sollten wir uns mal kurzschließen!

Hello, thank you for the model ! Just one question, how to get the belt without text (3dw...)on the ending part please ?

Hey edomaniac!
You can use Meshmixer.

Hey folks!
I'll upload the final version 2.2 this week. It's better (stronger) than the beta version 2.1.

anyone got this to print on ender 3?


Just printing and streaming my second belt. :)
Check out on youtube :)

any idea on cooling setting for pursa? want to make sure that I get good overhangs!
pla temp-210
4 perimeters
does 27 hours sound about right for size 909?

Love it. Mine broke but I drilled and used some nails as pins.
Is there a way I cold modify the links with small holes down the center to reinforce with wire nails right after printing? Printing individual links, clipping together partial plastic links (just the thick part) and then pinning would be fine.
I don't have a big tummy but it is like a hydraulic press.
Fabulous and genius design though, keep it up.

Hey alaskanalain! Thank you for your comment!
That is exactly the plan for a version 3 belt :)
I want it to print in place still, but add a hole to put a nails in so the critical parts are supported by the nails.
Maybe even so that you have to pause the print, add the nail and finish the print so you do not have a hole that shows from the outside.
This has some complications too so maybe it is better to put the nails in after removing it from the bed... this is propably the better way to do it, we'll see.
But you have to be patient cause I have some other projects running.

Firstly I'll upload the final version 2 which is going to be stronger and a little smaller in z-direction. Hopefully this is done this week.

Is the test print in the thing files version 1 or version 2? And is the costomizer version 1 or version 2?

Hey Hippo999!
The test file is still version 1.
To test version 2 do the following:
Use the costumizer to create a file (or just download one of the remixes)
If you use slic3r: load the file, split it and delete all parts except 2 linked together parts
print it and see if it workes out.

Or just wait another few days until I upload the final version 2 (which is even better than the current betta version 2) including a test file and all files you need

ok thank you. I dont use slic3r i use cura so i cant do that so ill just wait for the final version 2 belt

So if I need it for a waist size 29, would I need it to be around 760mm? I am unsure how that system works

How did you get that number? And in the customizer, do I put 740 on the slider?

1 inch = 25.4 mm

Do you think it would be possible to make it more tightly curled so it will fit in the build volume of the MPSM (120mm)

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Did you try the version 2 yet? It takes up less space and might fit your bed. I'm on my mobil and cant check the size of the belt right now...

It just doesn't fit, I increased my build volume to 127mm which is the actual maximum of the printer. If I scale it to 94% it fits. Cura is estimating 16 hours at .2mm and 20% infill, 2 walls. Does that sound right?

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

14 hours at 65mm/s instead of 50

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Better not scale it cause it reduces the number of perimeters of the pins...
You can modify the Open Scad file though! There are two parameters at the beginning of the script which influence the angle of each hinge to the one before (does this make any sense?). Play around with it and you'll see ;)

I loaded the file into openscad and played around with the settings. I cannot get it to tighten up properly. It the dba parameter only seems to affect the first few links.

never used open scad. Is that the name of the program as well as the file format? I've kept to tinkercad for now.

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

It is easy, try it out:

-Download and install OpenSCAD from http://www.openscad.org/downloads.html
-Download the .scad file of the belt
-open the file using OpenSCAD (it can take some time)
-fiddle around with the parameters (see screenshot):
---phi (value of the initial angle between elements)
---da (influences the spirality(?))
---db (influences the spirality(?))
-press F5 to see the influence/result of your changes
-press F6 to generate the .stl
-export the stl file

If you understand what I did there tell me cause I don't. (who needs comments in programming anyway)

You will love the new version 2 clearance :)

Is possible to add a parameter in Openscad to directly customize buckle with a string? Thanks!

Update - I printed a .1mm later height with a 40mm/sec speed and it printed perfectly!

This is an cool design. However, I have gone through two prints now where the belt will snap along a few of its hinges when i take it off the build plate and try to get movements in the joints. I have tried heating the phetg with a heat gun but it still breaks when i try to straighten it out. I have tried .3 and .2 mm layer height with 40 percent infill at a 245 degrees nozzle and 60 degree bed. And a 50mm/sec speed. I believe it is v2. Is their anything i can do such as change print speed, layer height, temperatures, or material to get a more precise print with a better tolerances so it won't break. Printing on a Qidi X-one2. Thanks

Hey itschaboi!
In my experience it is all about the accuracy of the printer. I never managed to print a working version 1 belt with my Ender 3 and never had a problem with my Prusa MK3. That said, there are people who managed to print it on a Ender 3 so maybe it is me beeing cack-handed.
Anyway, it works way better with version 2! It has about 50% more clearance at the hinges.

version 1: text on buckle: 3DW
version 2: text on buckle: 3DWatsch

You get a version 2 file by using the customizer.
cheers, Richard

My hinges are melted togetter. Does some one know how to solve that problem?

Version 1 or version 2?
If it's v1 than try v2 it has more clerance

Thank you very much, for the awnser. I will try V 2 now. I hope it will work.

One more thing: I would try just two higes first! If you are using Slic3r you can Spit the Belt and delete all hinges but two. This way you don't waist much material. And use 4 perimetres so it is strong :)

What do u mean with "4 perimetres"?

Du sprichst Deutsch oder?
In Slic3r heißen die Randschichten "perimeters". Damit die kleinen Scharnierstifte genug aushalten musst du in den Einstellungen 4 perimeters einstellen dann hält der Gürtel auch halbwegs was aus

Achso, hab cura und finde es echt nervig, dass die unterschiedlichen Slicer alle andere Wörter für die selben Einstellungen benutzen aber danke! Ich hatte mich ubrigens auch sehr gefreut, dass sich mal jemand gedanken darüber gemacht hat, dass man das Teil auch drucken kann. Wirklich gutes Design!

Currently printing this in Nylon, can't wait for the result.

find "-1.995000e+000" and replace by "-2.495000e+000" in the scad file to remove the 3DW logo.
(I know I'm a jerk but obfuscated scad file is not cool either)

I will buy the cad files if the belt lasts a week, I like those hinges, they look cool.

Hey _____
Naaaahh it's ok.
My guess is that it does not work as well in Nylon but this really depends on the type of Nylon you are using. The part most prone to brake is the small area of the pin of the hinges. Layer adhesion is crucial and I did not have the best experience with Nylon in that matter...
I am confident that it will last printed in PLA though!
Anyway, thanks for your comment,

Lifted from the print surface, you were right. I will try with a raft + the new 7x7 mesh bed level + glue stick + hotter heated bed.

Most other designer choose to put their logo in a place where it's less visible so that it doesn't interfere with the design.

Also you misspelled my name, you wrote _ instead of __ I'm offended.

Would it be better for me personally (i hace a 32 inch waist size) to use the 805 mm or the 900 mm? Because I calculated it out to be around 812 mm but in not sure if the 900 is too large. What do you suggest?

Hey Koosh,
You'll need the 805 which is 755-855mm.
But you better use the version 2! It is way stronger and easier to print.

Take a look at the description of the thing, there are a few things to consider before printing...

I had my doubts about this, but it worked a lot better then I expected. It printed perfectly the first try, and it's pretty sturdy. I printed with PLA and rectangular infill. It's pretty sturdy, and actually creats tension around my waist.

Hey Joelmatousek!
Thank you for your comment :)

Have you tried version 2 yet? It's stronger

Thats absolutely shit idea my belt broke in half and was awful, thanks for wasting half of my filament and 21h of print time.

Well, I don't know what to say here. Look, I am sorry that you didn't get the result you wanted.

With 3d printing, especially for something that it wasn't designed for, there's always going to be a risk, just because someone designs something that didn't work properly for your printer doesn't mean that they wasted your filament, you took the risk with it. We have tons of people who are trying to design items to be printed for free, and they don't own anything to you.

I'm not saying that you shouldn't tell them that the model doesn't work for your set up, in fact, we want people to let others know about these things so that they can be fixed. You don't, however, need to be like, "Thanks for wasting half of my filament and 21h of print time", instead, you should say, "This model didn't print very good on (insert setting here), and I found the belt to be very weak". It kind of takes that negative attitude and turns it into an informative. Also, a quick note, if you increase the amount of plastic infill it'll increase strength, making it kind of your fault that it wasn't strong enough.

Just remember, these people giving you FREE MODELS owe you nothing, so don't try and s*** in their face for it, instead let them know what they could do better. God bless, have a good time, and try to be nicer to people :D

Totally agree. No reason for DatOnePrinterGuy to be a dick when 3DWatsch is just trying to help the community.
I can't imagine the design time he has on this one.

Thanks for you comment MyNameIsntBob!

Comments deleted.

I'm a bit more.. Girthy... :) I would love to see one in the 1200 to 1400mm range. Or as someone else suggested, maybe one that can be customizable. thanks!

printed it in ABS with -0.1mm horizontal expansion, the links did not fuse, have been wearing it for over 3 weeks now.
used a brim and it went fine.

Would be possible a new file with a length of 135 to 140 mm? Is there any generator for that one? Thanks.

Da seh ich doch glatt ein FH Sankt Pölten T-shirt. Wie klein die Welt nicht ist, ich geh selbst in St.Pölten in die Schule. Sehr cooles Design!
LG Matthäus

Rate mal was ich zu meiner Bachelor Defensio getragen habe!
Es ging um 3D Druck also hat es gut gepasst

Haha, ja die Welt ist klein, Thingiverse groß und die FHSTP überall :)

Just a few tips for cura users.
I was able to print the test file with my ender 3 by enabling horizontal expansion (-0.15mm) on cura settings.
other than that im using cheap china pla, with recommended temperature settings.
hope this will help.

I have a question about horizontal expansion. If you use a value other than zero it will make the pins bigger or smaller. But it will also make the holes for the pins bigger or smaller. So it seems counter-intuitive to me that this helps. Unless Cura is smart enough to make the od of a thing smaller and the id of another thing bigger. Can someone verify this for me?

This should be top post. I fought and tried everything on my Ender 3 to get this to work. This tip helped make it not fuse together!

Can someone design one so it's for the larger man. I need one 1400mm please?

how big should i make it for a 11 year old kid with a wast size of 2 ft, 3 in/ 27 in

measue their waist size im mm then check if its similar to one of the the numbers on the files

What is teh largest size the belt can go to.

I was able to print mine off with ender3 . Quality was at 0.1 and the hinges had a slight stick but poped loose just like in the video . I also cut the hieght down to a 30 mm so it wasnt so thick ,due to belt loops in clothing . Just thought i would let you know if the ender3 is calibrated and ran at a fine setting the Ender 3 can print this belt . Great design and thank you for sharing . my job has me go threw a metal detector every day and my belt would set it off every day . BUT NOT ANYMORE . THANKS


What are clearances at hinge?

Mine are all stuck together (good I printed test file first)...

My test print is also fused.

printed with a .6 nozzle at .32 layers just fine

Thank you for this design- it's great! I love 3D printed wearable stuff. Mine is fresh off the printer and looks great. i hope it lasts!

BTW for those that are having trouble with the test print and the joints coming out welded, I posted a comment below about using a feature in Simplify3D called Horizontal Size Compensation. This allowed me to get this to print the test on my Anycubic i3 Mega. I then printed the entire belt and it looks good so far.

Thanks again to the designer, and I am excited to see future versions! Nice work.

Does it free up fairly easily was thinking using my carbon fiber fil

are you thinking of ading one with bether toleranse?

Yes, I am planing to add longer and shorter versions and also with slightly more tolerance. But this will happen not before March

maybe you could make a customisable one so any sized person can have one

I can't get the test STL to print correct. Using. .2mm, 15% fill PLA. Joints are welded. Any suggestions?

yh same for me on my um2+ rlly donno whats wrong in my setings

I'm having the same issues and I am using CURA not S3D. Settings with Hatchbox black PLA

  • .15 mm layer height
  • .4mm line width
  • 215 C
  • 60 C bed
  • 50 mm/s
  • 15% infill
  • 3 walls

Not sure what other information would help. It prints fine, but the joints are welded so I'm not sure what else to do.

Looks uncomfortable but thinking outta the box

Yeah it is a bit stiff. BUT! you can have it in any colour ;)

Those complaining about strength, print it in PLA+ or HTPLA. Several manufacturers provide it and it's 10 times stronger, and slightly flexible.

Works for me in a ender 3

What settings did you use? First test print failed though I believe I'm over extruding.

Update: Nevermind, I got it figured out. Reduced flow just a tad and everything printed perfect.

Anyway, PLA+ temp 210, speed 60, flow 100%, layer 0.2.
Possible important. combing Mode All
Using cura

Just my normal settings, I did nothing special for this print in special

This will break so fast if you are not a thin person...

Clearly you've never tried HTPLA. Rock solid.

You are right, it does not hold a ton.
If you have ideas on how to make this stronger without adding size or assembling let me know and I'll update.
I did make this for my own needs first (it works perfectly for me), it became popular later.
I am planing to make a stronger version though! It will be a little bigger.

Waste of 150g of filament broke into 50 pieces, when trying to bend

Comments deleted.

Sorry to hear and I don't want to be a weisenheimer but there is a testing file to prevent this

Oh, sorry didnt see it

why not print with flexible material???ima try e-sun elastic. hinges won't break if they stretch right????

Hey hulabalucifer!
Yes, that is definately something to try. If you do let us know how it went and if it is worth it!

I tried it with soft PLA. No infill, 4 perimeters. Works great, been wearing it for 2 weeks now without issues. Feels like a leather belt since it has a slight flex to it. https://www.thingiverse.com/make:615808

I really like this design, thank you for making it! The only issue I have is that the corners of the printed buckle are too sharp. They poke me when sitting so I don't bother with the buckle. The buckle also seems quite thick when it could have been thinner...
Anyway no big deal since the belt looks great even without a buckle.

Belt (print in place, customizable, MMU design)

Please tell me how you got that longer beginning extrusion.. I have a Prusa and it only dose a 2" beginning extrusion?

Hu I don't know! I didn't change anything. I guess it comes with a firmware update?

Mmmm I guess I’ll have to look into that?

The longer primming line is because of the MMU2, but even if you don't have one you can adjust your start gcode to change it.

If you add some micro cylinder holes (smaller than 0.2 diameter) in the areas you need more strength, the slicer will add parameters around the holes and add more plastic in that internal area. You said it finally broke, what broke, the catch or a link?

It broke at the link btw

Hello Peter!
Yes! That is a great idea! Thank you for the tip! This will save quite a bit of material since you can print with less perimeters.
I definitely will do that.

If you're using Slic3r PE you could also add modifiers wherever you want it to be stronger and increase the infill in those areas. This is even easier to do in the alpha as they can be added by right clicking on the active part.

Theoretically yes, practically the area where you change the infill density does not connect to the surrounding area properly in horicontal direction. I have tried this and I failed. At least not if you do it in a straight forward manner. This is due to the fact that every area is surrounded by perimeters. If you set perimeters to 0 it will even connect less because the infill does not "add up" (I don't know if this makes sense) Try it out!
Of course I can be missing something. If you succeed with different infill densities let me know how to do it!

For now I love the idea of Peter because it works exactly as I need it.

haha damn if only I could print this need a better/bigger machine my poor cocoon create model maker is too tiny to print this :(

Would it be possible to get one around 700mm to 800mm for really small people like myself, it's not that big of a hassle if you can't, thanks.

Yes, I can do that but it will take some time...

Thanks, you're a legend and I don't mind the wait.

boy, I would like to make one with 1250 mm, I am a fatboy !!! lol

Yes we need some American sized belts :-). I need 1210 mm.

do i need the buckle? or the belt itself clips on?

You do not need the buckle. It is just a clip on buckle

Where can I find that blue material? It's gorgeous!

how do you use the color mod in Slic3r PE for MMU 2.0?

-load the belt into Slic3r
-double click on the belt
-click on "load modifier"
-load the modifier file
-choose the individual extruder for the belt and for the modifier
If you have problems drop me a line and I send you the .amf file which has the modifier preloaded

thanks for your help :)

printed the test unit and there was no movement, the joins have printed into a solid piece

What's your setup? It's either the printers accuracy or the material. I had both. I couldn't get it done on my Ender 3 and had failures with ABS...

I have nothing special;

  • Flash Forge adventurer 3
  • Extruder 210c
  • bed 60c
  • 25% infill
  • print speed 20mm
  • movement speed 40mm
  • Brim
  • PLA

i just did another print after it and turned out well and i have done other prints that are chain linked which where moveable once you moved it around. its looking like the STL at this point but i may be missing something still.

In Simplify3D we have a feature called Horizontal Size Compensation. It is best explained here: https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=2042

Hey all- this was a great tip. Horizontal Size Compensation. I tried the test and the joints were welded. Then I did this with -0.1mm and it worked! Then I printed the entire belt and it worked as well. Give this a shot if you are having the joints welded

Sounds solid to me! Maybe it's the material you use? Hmm sorry can't help you I'm afraid...
The clearence of the hinges is rather thight, I know....

Whoever just tipped me:
Thank you so much! This is great :D

(Is there a way to see who tipped?)

It says in the email you get from Thingiverse.
Sadly, doesn't say when you look at it through the site. (at least, not that I found)

Thx, I found the donator

So what belt size\ waist size? and how would i adjust the file to come out big enough for me?

I think the numbers after the name of each file is the lenght ex: 1090 is 109,0mm or 1,9meters

It's in the description:

Belt_komplett_900... .stl: 850-950mm
Belt_komplett_805.stl: 755-855mm not testprinted! but should be ok
Belt_komplett_995.stl: 945-1045mm not testprinted! but should be ok
Belt_komplett_1090.stl: 1040-1140mm not testprinted! but should be ok
Take a close look at the print preview of the not testprinted length before you print it. If you find anything suspicious let me know and I fix it.

Hey! There are more files with different lenght.

Congratulations on getting featured, but I have to say your design is nothing new. Otvinta's tank, which was featured here a while ago, uses the exact same idea for its one-piece tracks:


RC Tank that Prints without Support, Assembles without Hardware and Wires without Soldering

There are even older examples way back from 2012:


Yes, there are quite a few examples but I have to say I was not aware of them the time I made this. If you try to fix the problem of connecting upright hinges you just get to this design

Hey! I have a dremel 3d40 and it just barely fits on the build plate and have to scale it down to 97% is there a way that you can coil it up in an oval shape so it can fit on the 10in x 6 in build plate? It looks really cool btw. keep it up!

Oh 3d40. Ok, but it will take some time

Do you need another Dremel? Got one for sale :)
Which size do you need? The 900mm belt should fit. I printed it an the Dremel

It doesn't fit on my 6" build plate. Any way you could make a file with it coiled up to fit a smaller print bed?

Which size do you need?

I would need the Belt_komplett_805.stl size.

Can you coil it up to fit in 150mm x 150mm...
The 1090 or 1m 90...

1090mm is not 1,9 meters it is 1,09 or one meter and 9 cm

According to his measurements, its actually: Belt_komplett_1090.stl: 1040-1140mm.

Hey would you be able to post or send the step file of the belt its self? Id like to change the logo on the belt it's self. Thanks!

You can use meshmixer to remove the logo and there is a .step file for the buckle.

Also I did the test piece and it was fused. I'd like to alter the tolerance for the connections.

Sorry Sivaas... I don't want to give away the step files. At least for now.

dang well thats unfortunate, I don't know much about the tolerances for printing in place hinges, I assume you have to make the distance between the two walls greater? and I also assume there's no other way to do that than without altering the step files?

you can scale it bigger. thats how i get gear bearings to work, like 103%. also, smaller layer height help clearances.

yeah I think I went with .16 on my ender 3 I'll give the scale a try thanks.

I saw the file for the buckle it just looked a little out of place for the belt that's why i wanted to change the end and add something else to it. Usually, I can use fusion to edit the stl but there are too many faces to convert it and reducing it will degrade the accuracy of the joints. and ill give meshmixer a try, I hadn't messed with it that much.

Comments deleted.

This really looks awesome; I especially like the multi-colour version! I'm personally not a fan of stiff belts but I wonder if a similar design could be made out of some medium-hard TPU. Have you tried that yet? Is the buckle able to stay closed while moving? I'm also experimenting with buckles and have already almost dropped my pants in public due to these experiments ^^

Servus :)
I didn't try Flex materials yet but it's a good idea! Are you planing to go to viennas maker fair in May? FH-St.Pölten has a stand there where we show of some designs.
Never lost my pants :)

Good to know; I'm planning in visiting this year. So I'll keep an eye open for your booth.

You blow my mind with this belt....
You go girl!!

Thank you mate. I am Richard btw :D

that's just a figure of speech :P

Nice to meet You Richard :-)
My name is Robert

how long took You to create the this progect?

Ahh ok didn't know that. Hello Robert!
Hard to say because I did this over a longer time periode and with iterations. But it took me many, many hours.

Is it possible to print with pla

Yes it is! There is a testing file. Try it out!

how do i set 4 perimeters in cura?

Go to where it says perimeters and type 4...

But where is the perimeters section?

If I were you I’d recommend spending the money on simplify3d. I personally think it’s a better slicer.

It's called "wall line count" in Cura and can be found in the shell section.

I just printed the test file. It looks great but doesn't bend.

What's your setup? It's either the printers accuracy or the material. I had both. I couldn't get it done on my Ender 3 and had failures with ABS...

Is there anyway to make this larger? Not everyone has a 34-36" waist :/ I personally need a 42-44 I love the design!

I added longer versions

This is amazing any way to make it up to 46-50?

Hey there! I'll upload a longer version, but I cant do it right now....

So I like the MMU2 versions... but I cannot figure out how to achieve the separate files I need to pull this off? Can you just post a stl with the files MMU2 ready?

Hello TheLightSpeed!
I do not have such stls. Do you use Slic3r? If so you can load so called "modifyer" and wherever it overlaps with your part you can choose a different color. Just dopple click on your part and find work through all the settings. I am sure you'll find tutorials online how to do that.

This isn't really an MMU design, then. Still very cool, though! FYI, MMU designs have multiple parts for separate extruder assignments in slic3r, no modifiers needed. The best way to preserve them is using a different format, like AMF instead of multiple STLs. Here's an example of mine: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3357009

Thanks again for this clever design. I might try printing it in HIPS.

Multi-Material Nuka Cola Bottlecap

I printed the short sample of the belt in PLA on my Prusa Mk3.
The links were tight at first but were easily loosened. I want to
print a belt but need it to be lengthened to 966mm. Is that

Added longer versions

Hey there! I'll upload new versions in a few weeks

Can make even a little longer? What did you create this in? I'd be interested to try lengthening, and/or modding, it myself. I got it to print well in petg on my maker select v2, came out really good, but short. I broke it to see how much it would take, and it's pretty sturdy. Can't wait to wear one! Thanks for making this!

Hi, I've printed on prusa i3 with cura 0.2 layer PLA and design seems to be way too tight. It breaks if bent as was mentioned in previous comments. Also tried enabling Z Hop, which didn't help unfortunately. Should this design be sliced by slic3r? Or maybe you can enlarge the holes a bit? Thank you!

Print it at higher temp. There's a sweet spot. If you're too hot, it will be brittle. If too cool, the layers will be bonded poorly. Try PETG. Or, maybe even high temp PLA. I have not tried Amopha / nGen, or Nylon, but they may be suitable. My best print was PETG at 255c.

I used Simplify3D, no luck there on my crummy i3 clone.

Hey kourindouhime!
Yes, I use Slic3r, maybe that makes the difference?
Hmm... the only other factor I can think of is the material you use.
I have printed a few belts and they work just fine.
I chose the tolerances as tight as I could get away with without having problems on my setup.

kourindouhime, I am planing to make the belt better but I can't work on it the next weeks. Maybe come back later.
Just making the holes bigger does not solve the problem because then the hinges are to weak.

Just printed the test file on my Ender 3. It worked like a charm. The bad part though, I'm not sure that it's long enough to fit me. Is there any way to make it a few links longer without compromising the "print-in-placeability"?

Just curious i had a hard time getting my ender 3 to print the hinges what were your settings for this?

added longer versions

I really want to do that but I must (must!must!) work on my bachelor thesis... I'll do that in March, ok?
Maybe MagnificentX helps you out, see comment below

Giving the test file a shot right now on my crummy cheap Anet A8 i3 clone. Hopefully it works out!

Hey Hazonku! Let us know how it turned out!

No luck at 0.2mm or 0.1mm layer height. Tolerances were just a tad too tight for my poor little Anet A8 to pull it off. I did however notice a little ghosting in the Y direction. I'll tighten up all my belts and give it another shot at maybe a slower print speed this time with a bit higher Z hop. So far It's proving to be a fun little challenge though.

For all you Anet A8 folks out there, I'm not running a stock setup:
New Marlin based board.
New extruder nozzle.
Recently replaced the heatbed (still stock, just a new one).
Recently lubed up everything and cleaned out the extruder gear.
Upgraded from the 3 piece H carriage to a single piece & Y carriage.
Added the Buildtak Flexplate system.

Even with all that no luck so far. I would love to see someone with a fine tuned stock A8 or other cheap Chinese i3 clone pull this print off though! That'd be pretty impressive.

Hey, Ender 3 Pro user here, and I wanted to give a few tips. First of all enable z-hop. I had maybe 5 failed prints, where it went really well only to have a few links knocked out of the way. Enabled z-hop, and it looks great. Minus the minimal amount of stringing near the bottom layers only. I also have a smaller waist, and if anyone was wondering it is possible to shorten the belt by going into you C.A.D of choice ( I used Rhino 3D) And removing a few links. My settings: .2mm layer height. 60mmps speeds, no rafts, skirts, or borders. I used pla. Give it a shot.

Any chance you could upload your shorter file? I am also a skinny guy but my only attempts at using CAD have been...not great. I'm still pretty new to this haha

Hey MagnificentX! Thank you for your pro-tip :)
Do you mind uploading a pic of your belt as a make? That would be awesome!

well i tried printing it and it wont budge without breaking.. i have made many models that have to break up after printing, so i know some tricks to wiggle instead of hard force, but nothing worked.. not one of the hinges would break away without destruction.. i tried them all and every hinge broke :(

Hey bbernstone! I have had the same experience on my Ender 3.
It worked perfectly on my Prusa MK3 and my Dremel 3D45.

It is a tight fit, I know that. Sorry it didn't work out. That's why I put the testing file online.

ya.. im not upset.. im always willing to waste a little for a big payoff!! :P is it because the tollernaces are too tight? maybe you could make a version with more tollerance and it will work on the ender 3 and my MPMS+ :) and i know i should have tried the tester first! :P

Yeah I should do that. I'll change it next year :)

My printer is currently down, but I'm SO looking forward to giving this the second helping of pasta test! ;-)

Great job, Fantastic design!!!!

I probably should add a longer after christmas version though

Super clever work ! truly impressed ! congrats !

how do you use the color modifying STL's

Hmm.... The way I do it is:
You need a Prusa, the MMU unit and Slic3r as a slicer.
After adding the belt to your platform in Slic3r double click on the belt to get to the settings for this part.
There you'll find a "load modifyer" button. Load the desired modifier.
You can find out everything else by trying

Ah ok, didn’t realize it was slic3r specific. I was trying to use S3D and adapt it to the Palette 2 Pro

How's the Palette working? Is it good?

It has some bugs but that’s expected with anything fresh after a launch now days. But honestly I’m overall impressed with it, I’m considering buying another

Good to hear!

This is awesome. It never ceases to amaze me what people come up with to 3D print.

Hey cohadav! Thank you so much for your feedback!

What size waist would this fit?

It's 850-950mm