Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

DKDaigle

X5S MGN-12H Rail Mod V2.0

by DKDaigle Nov 29, 2018
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Did anyone's notice improved print quality after doing this? Is it worth it?

Making a case for my printer. Any chance you could remix c1 and c2 corner brackets to fit https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203809 Your design is so much better using pins. I even attempted to do it myself on blender lol. Help xD

Roof for Tronxy X5S
by Andy76

Hello,
What print settings did you use...
Infill
Layer

Kr,

Wolf

any chance of updating the Y blocks to get along with 450mm rails on the new design ? Like removing the "back" screw mount. As they only use the 2 top screw on acrylic panels on the original kit, I think having only the 2 top, and the 1 front should be enough?

Not sure what your asking. The bad screws secure it to the rail block. 450s should fit just fine like it is.

considering you had to fix the previous Y (side) carriages to get it to accept 450mm rails (with a hole where the rail goes), and considering that now the rail will not be on the same side of the 2020 bar, I'm pretty sure that something needs to be done on those.

If you look on attached picture, I pointed the part that will need to be "gone" (either the left one or the right one depending on which carriage is concerned).

Edit : I love the new X Carriage design :)

Ohhhhhhhhhh sorry the original question went right over my head I was thinking on the outside the printer

No worries, if you're busy/tired because of work, misunderstanding could easily happen, moreover, English is not my mother langage, so I may also make mistakes and lead to misinterpretations :)

New x carriage. Yes!! Any chance of getting this to work. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 P.s. Had issues with the blank plate design carriage to accept this before(https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2984806). Wobbled too much right where the fan, hotend & everything else mounted too it. Using a temp fix with ca at the moment.

Petsfang Duct for CR10 MicroSwiss/Stock/E3Dv6/Volcano/TevoTornado /Tarantula Hot End/E3Dv6 CNC Mount & 5015 fan Bullseye
by dpetsel
Petsfang for TRONXY X5s, X3, X1 Stock or E3Dv6 Hot End
by dpetsel

Can probably work that out at some point, currently working 7days a week so no positive when but hopefully soon

Fast or Slow your work is appreciated. Love your designs! Have a great memorial weekend!

Taking a look at this, the mount plate is some what complicated. Still working on it though.

Good luck. Hope it's not too hard/time-consuming.

Completely scratch what i asked for. This works with your new mount, though haven't tested this on it yet. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2850963 P.S. Currently Rock solid with your latest revision. Carriage is way stiffer than it was. Prints have gotten better by a lot.

Petsfang mod to fit mounting for CR-10 Heavy Duty customisable modular e3D V6 mount Volcano 5015 ABL by chito
by jsutyla

Good to hear, sorry I hadn't gotten to yours are really any of the other requests lately, been putting in 12-16 hrs a day at work 6-7days a week all year and just don't really have time for anything lately. I still need to clean up and reorganize the files in here at some point but just no time for anything outside of work here lately ☹️

Great design you have here, but i can't for the life of me get the belts to come off even somewhat horizontal between the idlers on the Y-carriers and towards the X-carrier. The mounting holes on the X-carrier is something like 3mm to high up to make them align?

Edit:
Naaah i found some of the problem, it's the ass-backwards naming of the Y-carriers that messed it up. Why not name them Left / right? 1 / 2 ain't much for explaining placement and/or orientation lol.

Sorry bout that

Would you mind sharing the braces that you are using in your pictures?

Sorry been out the country for a lil while, yeah let me dig in fusion if I still have them I'll upload them and drop a link

Hey. Can we have a version of the Y carriage, where both of the idlers are appropriate in height for that belt? I rather offset the cogs on the motors. Or can you share your source files?

I just imported it into fusion 360. Then to Mesh to BREP then edit it in the model workspace. To do me remix I cut bits, moved them and joined them back up with extrusions.
If the author doesnt get round to it ill have a bash.

Working 6 days a week ATM and building a massive custom printer on my day off, I don't mind doing the edit but it will be a lil while before I can get to it.

Hello. I just finished the remix: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3448834

Its a bit janky but i managed to get it done. I added a new carriage too so you can use the heavy duty modular e3d mod for the CR-10

X5S MGN12 with e3d heavy duty modular

Where does the X axis end stop go on this?

I simply took the small black pointed screws that attach it to the acrylic part and screwed it directly to the plastic on the X right under the belt.

Ahh yes that makes sense. They should pierce the plastic easily.

There are no holes so it will grab in the plastic nice and tight since it's such a small screw.

So I installed this and the belts dont line up vertically. it would appear that the front right corner pulley pillar is too high.

Surely it should be the same height as the right side back flat pulley?

I think this is a symptom of using 1 belt tbh. I shall do a remix for 2 belts so that you can keep the belts level.

It's that way on purpose so the single belt is level across the X axis because thoes are moving parts, there are no moving parts from the stepper to the front corner so that is the best place to change the hight of the belt. The stepper pulley should match the hight of the rear idlers on the y. The 4mm elevation change across the approx 550mm run is negligible especially since both points are fixed. As far as the remix it's your printer build it however you see fit.

I see. Its causing the belts to grind on my pulleys :(

Grind on the pullies? How so?

So the belt is moving up and down the pulley. When the belt gets to the top or bottom of the pulley the teeth grind against the edge.

I see, I hadn't noticed this happening on mine but there is a elevation change so I'm sure it's possible, I could tweak the axis of the idlers in the corner, but it's only .4 degrees. So the top the pin would lean back .16mm not sure I would make a amazing difference, but if you want to keep the single belt it's an option.

It might even be to do with the idlers. Im using gates toothed and smooth idlers. They are 10mm in height. I did compensate the the mounting posts (I raised the top ones by 1mm). But i noticed that the gates idler sit about 1mm higher than the standard idlers. I think ideally what I should have done would be to take 0.5mm from the top and 0.5mm from the bottom

Yeah when making an adjustment like that I would definitely recommend adjusting both sides evenly, that way the belt path stays centered. When I have time I can make thoes adjustments for you but I just can't do it ATM.

Okay cool, well ill give that a shot, I think I can mange that now.

not sure what i did but my forward two pulleys on the Y are not lining up with the corners. the rear pulleys line up great with the motors and corners but the front two on the Y are about half a pulley off....

im using C1 and C2, and the Y1_450 and Y2_450.

Any ideas? it seems the half posts on the Y1 and Y2 blocks should be mirror the rear of the part... to match the corners...

Half off which way?

attached a photo. sorry for the bad lighting. looked good on my phone! as you can see the middle pully in the pic should be lined up with the corner pulley that is closest right? the furthest one away is lined up great with the motor and the corner. but i cant see how i can route the belts with that much disparity.

No problem, I can brighten it enough to see it very well on my laptop. Simple fix, you have the Y carriages on backwards, switch them from one side to the other. The centered pulley should be on the stepper side. the side offset up and down goes towards the corners and will match up with the elevations. Set the stepper gear the same height as the centered idler on the Y. Then the belt is completely level from the stepper threw the x and back to the stepper. The small elevation change running from the stepper to the front corner is a non issue since there are no moving parts in that run. That make sense?

ill give it a shot. the thought occurred to me but it didnt seem correct. i get it now with the elevation slight elevation change. but why not keep the upper and lower belt style?

i really like the design, just curious as to the reasoning why you didnt keep all the belts perpendicular.

Cause its designed for a single belt to avoid uneven tension between the two belts. This gives you a straight path from Y1 to Y2 across the back of the x, then you just clamp it to the back the x with the plate after so both sides are even. You can use two separate belts if you clamp them first, but then you have to worry about tension.

Ah! very clever! everything makes sense now. guess i should have figured that out. guess ill have to order some new belt! i was planning on reusing my old belts as they were relatively new but i like the single belt design. makes more sense.

Thanks for your patience and help and clever design!!!!

So I ordered some expensive Gates idlers. Sadly they are a bit bigger than the standard 8.5mm chinesium idlers. The gates ones are 10mm tall.

Any chance of a remix? or are you happy for me to give it a try to remix it?

Have at it, or if you give me the exact measurements sometime in the next day or two I can fix a set for you.

My modelling skills are...novice lets say, but I'll give it a bash and post a remix. The new idlers are 10mm tall (I believe the normal ones are 8.55). Other than that they are the same as the others in other dimensions.

Ok the gap in these are 9.2 mm and 20 overall in between the assymbelly. Just watch which way you cut them, leave yourself at least .2 mm so they don't bind up on the top and bottom, and cut all the ones for each side the belt the same way do that they match up. Double check they hight the belt rides in the pulley to verify there will still be clearance in the front path for the belts to cross.

will do, thanks for the tips.

Regarding the idlers that fit between the mounts... are they supposed to be contacting the plastic mounts? Theres a large gap between mine.

No you don't want them rubbing, it should have roughly .2mm between the idlers and mounts

Awesome, thanks for the info. Great mod btw.

My Pins don’t enter in the pulley’s bore: did you file them to fit?

Nope mine were a perfect fit, that's why I included a pin test to see if you needed to adjust the hole settings on your slicer, you can always run a 5mm (13/64 if your American :) drill bit in them to clean up the holes. Do it by hand it's pretty easy to cut the plastic if it's real close and you won't punch clean threw the bottom like that. A Lil 3&1 oil or a dab of grease really helps set the pins they are suppose to be fairly snug, but shouldn't be hard to take in and out. Oh you could try an m5 screw also. Run it to the bottom then just slowly turn it and it should clean out the holes enough that the pins fit nicely. Just watch it doesn't start to spread the gap between the two holes and break the part.

Your model is perfect and the print went right, plastic part is not a problem. I tried a 5mm drill bit on the hole of the pulleys and results they are just right, the pins are really snug: I will try fine grit sandpaper and oil on them.
Thank you for your advices! :-)

Why don’t you run the belts parallel in the front? I heard it’s supposed to be better.

Nah, no difference, there is no moving parts on the front. Only places it matters is where the belt is attached to a moving part, the x or the y careage, then they need to be straight cause the movement distance will change with the angle of the belt. Across the front is to stationary points so no difference either way.

Thanks for this!

This design is the last chance my x5s is getting - it's been a bit of a an expensive chore so far.
I bought the pins you mention (they don't sell them here so I had to get them shipped from Amazon in the States) I'm wondering if the whole pulley moving as opposed to just the bearing will have any effect on print quality.

The GT2 pulleys that I bought pretty much just slide onto the steel pins but movement is very smooth all the same.

As long as the movement is smooth, i wouldn't guess it matters if its the barring or whole part rotating. That's part of the reason for the pins instead of screws. in case the bearing is bad it should still spin smooth. I've stuck regular pulley on the pins and the almost seem to be smoother than idlers. They wont fit in the parts though.

Thanks for the reply and for your design, it's much-appreciated sir!

What would be the best motor mounts to use with this setup??

Have you tried the Mirco Swiss Hoted ? I just ordered one. Feedback ???

Nope haven't used one.

Have you tried the Mirco Swiss Hoted ? I just ordered one. Feedback ???

I'm using the factory mounts.

Wish this had options for you hotend mount. Like for a bl touch or the superior Petsfang blower. Love this and make a way to tip! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2984806/comments

Petsfang for TRONXY X5s, X3, X1 Stock or E3Dv6 Hot End
by dpetsel

I can probably work this out pretty easy, just don't have time right this second. Check back Sunday night

That would be amazing! Hope you get the time. :D

How do you run the belts? Can you add a pic where I can see?

Standard core XY routing. Only difference is it runs behind the carriage as a single belt then has a plate to secure it.

What type of material is best for these parts?? ABS or PLA ??

PETG or ABS, keep in mind that ABS will retract on cooling, hence clearances might not be corrects.

Side note about your X-Carriage design, did you give a thought about using "sacrificial bridge" as explained by Maker Muse to ease print of the "top" part without support?

Not positive what you mean, let me go get educated.

Quite interesting, going to do some testes and if its that simple yes I will incorporate that the next time I update these parts.

Ok, may I ask you to keep me posted about your tests? I am trying to start modelling my own parts, and I'm interested in the results :)

For reference, this is my present setup.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2471011

Heavy Duty E3D v6 Mount for Creality CR7 CR8 CR10

I've received the rails, now printing the parts. I have a biqu AutoBedLevel probe. Any plans for adding brackets to the 'X' axis part? I will need to drill a hole through the X block to attach my exsisting brackets. great project, thank you.

Actually working on a Hypercube project ATM and the guy doing the Carrage has a bunch of awesome designs that incorporate many different probes, fans and extruder designs. Using this carrage as a base. It will likely make it's way here once it's complete, may be a little while though.

Many thanks,

getting a new "comment" thread, to try to clarify things a bit.

Is the 1 belt thing, not putting some unnecessary constrains on the belt/pulleys when the carriage is near the border, due to the belt path height change?

This is a "fault" in the original design, making these kind of parts ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2687463 ) needed.

Would you mind designing a back plate, which has belt fixing holes matching those in the front?

By the way, I really love what you've done for the pulleys, it's a really nice design correcting what I can only see as a flaw of the original design (having the pulleys on the wheel screws).

X5S Belt Straightener

The hight change in the belts happens from the steppers to the very front corners along the longest path with no moving parts. To run the single belt I wanted every belt path as straight as possible going to moving parts. So the two idlers that turn the belt to run along the back of the x are the same hight. As such the stepper gears should be set at the same hight as the rear idlers on the Y this ensures level belt path to all moving parts. The 6mm elevation change across the 500+mm run from the stepper to the front corner is negligible especially since neither part moves and the belt will always travel the same distance at the same angle. Sure my PC is currently down, hopefully sometime this afternoon I can get you that plate, just note it won't be offset like your picture since the pullies across the back are level

Hey, after more "checking" of the X Carriage, it's missing half of the belt fixations too, or there's something I did not understood.

Belt fixations, if you mean the holes on the back for the belt its meant to run 1 long belt. it by passes the back of the carriage so when its tensioned its equal on both sides. After tension is applied there is a back plate to secure it to the carriage. If you wish to use two belts simply secure them in the back with the plate before hooking the fronts.

Comments deleted.

which Back plate are you talking about?

Hum... It use to be there, must of accidentally deleted it last update, let me put it back

Thanks a lot :)

Hey, could you please tell in the description the "optimal" length of rails to be ordered without the 450mm notch?

Ok, I just checked how you did the fixation, and I don't mind using the notch version, so 450mm for the gantry rail, what about the other two? 450mm too?

430 is optimal, but 400 will work if you get it centered just right. I bought 450s and cut them to fit.

Ok, I've ordered 450s too :)

On your Y1 and Y2 could you make a version that the slots are closed, Where it mounts to the 2020 frame??

where it mounts on the side of the 2020 , where your slot is open on the end. can you close if off?? I don't want it to spread open when I tighten it. add like a good 1/8" of web or more. What do you think?

I can but then you will have to fish the t nuts behind it. I've used the open slots on several other parts without issue. Not near my labtop I'll make them and let you know when they are in there

That's very kind of you. Fishing the nuts in is no problem, Easy.

What are you using for the stepper motor mounts??

Still using the factory mounts, haven't seen the need to replace them.

https://www.mcmaster.com/shoulder-bolts

First of all thank you for all your hard work. Going to use shoulder bolts from mcmastercarr for the pulleys, Just wanted to pass that along for you.

Sure you can do that,. The 5mm section of the hole should be 26mm deep on all the openings. The hole in the bottom to knock the pins back out is 2.5 mm so if they have a 5x 2 or 3 mm that should work for you. .

What are you using for a belt tensioning ?

The factory slots in the stepper plates. Slide them all the way forward before running the belt. Plenty adjustment.

ok very good, How is this system working out for you so far???

As said in the instructions this is me cleaning up and doing some tweaking on my original (it's linked). I haven't printed this yeat waiting on a new display for my printer, the original has been very good though. Got many great quality parts out of it.

Really like the design to convert to linear rails, just ordered a set for my Tronxy X5SA. Just curious why not stack the pulleys/belts, Wouldn't that give you a better belt path? https://i.all3dp.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/26144921/Tronxy-X5s-Mega-Gantry-Plates-e1529313489195.jpg

Many ways to do it, doing it this way I can run the rear belt behind the X and use a single long belt to eliminate uneven tension issues.

Ok that sounds interesting, do you have any pictures to show what exactly you mean by run behind the X? And by a single belt you mean no left and right but one long 5m belt for the XY movement? Sorry if that sounds stupid, this is my first CoreXY build. Have done a few cartesian and many Delta bots but never one of these. :)

6mm belt, and yes, 1 long belt. It attaches the front corner then runs the entire path skirts right behind the hot end carrage and back around to the front on the other side. Then you tension the belt with the steppers. Like this you get perfect tension between both sides. Last step is to screw on the little plate behind the belt and lock it to the carrage then the steppers can pull evenly front and back on the carrage.