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Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Universal Zaribo Einsy Box

by JuanPuchol Nov 26, 2018
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Can we have step files for some parts ? I would like to modify heatbed cable holder to bring the sleeve vertically. Only 'cover' part is enough. I can modify it for my needs. Thanks in advance!

I'm sorry, I have done all the work by using Blender, so only Blender files. For the next version I will change the heatbed port in angle.

60° up would be great... 45° is probably not enough for people like me with an enclosure..

I'm using it within my enclosure and fits very well

I did a small piece that can be glue to the case to be able to attach the cable. For anyone want it...

Hi! Awesome design! I want to use it on my MK3s full bear, But i have one question i need to clarify. If i print the box with no fan or raspberry option, do I need to extend the right z-axis cable?

Thanks, I'm using the Full Bear Box without Raspberry with the Prusa stock motors (original cables, no extended). But my PSU is outside (I'm using an enclosure) and I extended the cables. Probably the only cables you have to extend are the PSU ones.The Fan cover doesn't matter to extend the cables.

Brilliant, thanks for your quick reply! I also have the PSU outside my enclosure, so no problems then :)

First of all, this design is beautiful and was incredibly recommended to me by so many people from so many communities so I just want to say thank you for your effort!

I do have a quick question. I'm a little confused on what all I need to print. I currently have a raspberry pi 3B (not B+), with a full bear Prusa MK2.5 + MMU2. I think I understand the ABC structure for the body of the box (I would need the 122_Bear Einsy Body MMU2 RASP V5) but what cover would I need to print? and is there a configureation for MMU2 full bear Rasberry AND fan?

Once again, thank you very much for your efforts!

Thank you. If you box body begins with 122 your covers begin with 120, and the name (I think) is self explanatory. You have two options with fan or without (120. Bear_Einsy_Cover_Fan_RASP_v4.stl or 120. Bear_Einsy_Cover_RASP_v4.stl) and the cover for Raspberry (120. Bear_Einsy_Rasp_Cover_v4.stl)

Excellent.. thank you so much Juan! Also the last bit of clarification is about whether or not the Raspberry Pi 3 B (not B+) is compatible with the case? I don't think the mounting is any different, but I wasn't sure if there's something about the B+ that I don't know about.

Hello, yes it is compatible, the Raspberry Pi 3 B and Pi 3 B+ share the same PCB as you can see here: https://www.androidcentral.com/raspberry-pi-3-model-b-vs-3-b

Awesome, once again, thank you very much Juan. Can you tell me what the second little PCB is under the Einsy in the 5th picture?

It is a stepdown, I use it to convert 24v (from the PSU) to 5v to power the Raspberry, it has 5A enought power for the Raspberry (Einsy board has no enought power form the GPIO port). The red and black wires come from the stepdown, the other wires are to connect the Raspberry with Einsy board internally, so no extarnal USB cable is needed.

The latest versions Have solved a number of the issues that I've been having, but I noticed another problem that I'm having. The clearance of the x-axis motor is still too small. I have a clip around the motor to secure the wiring. The perimeter of the clip makes contact with the cover as the x-axis travels along the Z. Is there any way we can align the cover with the Bear frame? That would ensure Maximum clearance. Without actually measuring it, seems like it's off by about 3 mm. If I get a chance I will put a picture of what I'm referring to.

Oh, yes, please send me a picture. I suppose you are talking about the Raspberry version on Bear frame. I'm updating the boxes a bit and I want to include your feedback.

The only other issue that I have is not really an issue because it only applies to a small number of people more than likely. The 12 V lines coming from power supply typically come from the PSU mounted on the frame itself. In my case, I have opted to mount the power supplies underneath my desk in order to minimize what is attached to the frame. Having another external wiring hole on the back where the buck converter normally goes would make my scenario perfect. Here are some pictures to illustrate what I was referring to. I'm not using the power converter because I am using a power over ethernet hat on my raspberry pi in order to keep it power separately. Unfortunately, I can foresee a whole new case alongside the other variants. It's completely up to you whether you feel this is something you want to do.

-- Scott

Hello, I have mine exactly as you.

Here's the picture. If you look, the red clip around the motor touches the cover. The printer is operating great, but you can't slip a piece of paper between those two points, so the friction is greater and therefore the torque required on the left motor is greater

You and I have the same perspective on our 3-D printers; they need to be highly functional as well as incredible looking themselves. I really liked your X axis motor spinner. I will send you a picture of my "red Dragon" when I put the final touches on it.

I really want to do your case in multi-materials so that I can add tribal accents, but that's probably not going to happen.

I see. Two updates ago I moved the anchors a bit to increase the clearance between the box and X-Motor. I'm working on a new version (with HoneyComb style holes, angled hetbed and more), so I will move 1mm more the anchors, that will be enough

Very nice! When do you release the new version? Need a new Einsy Box for my Bear :)

Thanks, I need a few days to finish all the boxes. Today I have mounted my Zaribo Raspberry A+ Einsy Box and fits very nice.

I don't know that angle heatbed port. I personally like it going straight back as it is now. The braided wire around that I'm using Keeps the cables out of the way effectively. Angling that port doesn't seem to look right to me. I think that's just a preference though

The Prusa original box has an angled heatbed port, and people ask for them

It's understandable because it helps keep the heat bed cable from dragging. Practically speaking, this is more important than aesthetics. I really like the design, but it is one of those situations cannot please everyone.

As a software developer and engineer, I find it easy to understand parametric design. I actually started writing this case in OpenSCAD with the primary intent of parameters that define what kind of usage the case has. In the event of corner cases, modification becomes much more trivial. Prusa does all of their printed parts in OpenSCAD in order to have precise tolerances as well as the ability to collaborate much easier. This is just my opinion, but not much can compare with openscad when it comes to things like this. I find it much easier to understand even compare diffusion 360. But in my experience, software developers especially prefer openscad's C based language to anything else for the purposes of engineering.

I agree they think that will work.

Anything to get the wires from the right z axis motor to reach using the raspi box with the buck boot supply.
Do I have to splice them, or how to route the wire to reach.

Hello, I have changed all the wires because the Prusa stock cables are too short, but the easy way is to use this: https://zaribo.com/plugs-connectors-cables/65-motor-extension-cable-20cm.html

I am using 122._Bear_Einsy_Body_MMU2_RASP_v5. But I can find a good way to route the PSU cables without the cable pass-through slot. What direction should them? This is the best case design I've seen yet btw!

Thank you. But I don't understand very well your problem, you can route the PSU cables from frame interior or exterior, in my case I route the cables from exterior because I use an enclosure and the PSU is outside the enclosure. I will add a photo tomorrow.

So should I be able to route the PSU cable at there stock lengths or might i have to modify? No problem if so, just don’t want to be missing something easy.

If you are mounting the PSU on the Bear Frame (usual way) you will need to enlarge the cable over 10-15cm because the Prusa cables are short to route over the Bear Frame

I printed the MK3_Bear_Einsy_Body_MMU2_NO_RASP_v5 variant, and the clearance for the angle corner bracket is 17 mm between the case and the cover, but my official kit Bear has a 20 mm wide bracket, so there's a lot of interference. Is this a known issue, or am I missing something?

Please, can you send me a photo?

The interference is hard to photograph, but you can see from what I've attached that you left a 17 mm gap between the cover and the case, but the angle bracket is 20 mm wide (20 mm brackets are what is listed in the Bear BOM and in the official kit). So when you try to mount the case, it sits on top of the angle bracket rather than next to it. Because of this, the protrusion on the bottom of the case doesn't fit into the v-slots.

Thanks for your feedback. I have not had issues with this box (I have this one on my full Bear). Otherwise I have reduced the size by 3mm to better mount, the files are updated.

the fan should blow on the tmc2130

Yes, from outside to inside

The 5th picture shows a case for Zaribo with the back grill (rejilla) stretching all the way to the bottom of the Einsy board. I can't seem to find this version in the files, would you be able to point out please?

That version does not exist anymore to prevent the heat from the heatbed

great model, will the pi version hold a rpi 3?

many thanks

The Raspberry Boxes are designed for a RPI 3 B+

Many thanks for your quick reply.

The new Bear Version is great... thanx for the new Pi Version! But btw wrong Logo ;( Where is the bear? ;)

I'm sorry, I have forgotten to change the logos. I have updated the boxes with the correct logo.

Thanx for the quick fix! Reprint ist running ;)

Just one question about the fan version. When i get the 5V for the Case fan from the Einsy board. Are the 5V permanent or only when a job is running? My printers are always on so it would be cool to switch on the fan only when printing.

If you connect the fan to the 5V einsy output always is on (3rd picture). To switch on the case fan only when printing you have to do a special cable and connect it together the extruder fan, I don't know other way.

Ok, thanx for the info!

Hi, nice work!! i printed the Bear version with the fan on cover. Does the fan should be mounted facing to the einsy (air come from outside and go inside the box) or shoul be opposite? Thanks

You have the two options. I have mounted mine as you have asked, taking air from outside towards the cpu.

Very nice design. Sorry if this question was obvious, but is there a file which is compatible with an MK2S frame? Thanks.

The Stock Box is designed for a MK3 frame (94mm vertical distance between holes centers). What is the distance in the MK2S frame?

Measuring it, it seems to be the same, with 94mm vertical distance, and around 44mm horizontal distance. I'm not sure if the horizontal measurement is the same as the MK3 frame. (Photos of measurement attached) Thank you for all your work on this.

Thank you, observing your picture I think is more around 42mm, but the MK3 has a horizontal distance of 39mm, the stock boxes admit until 42mm. Please, can you check it again. please

Sorry for the very late response. I'll currently planning on printing the box, I'll let you know if it fits the MK2S.

I'm not sure, I'll measure it, and get back as soon as I can.

Fantastic! Greatly appreciate the changes for the raspberry pi!

edit: I forgot to mention one other thing that I have noted. The 12V DC lines coming in from the power supply. Most people have the power supply mounted to the printer itself. I've separated them and mounted power supplies directly underneath the desk in order to minimize what's on the desk. In the space that you have the mounting points for the buck converter, it would be really nice to take the DC lines out in a very similar fashion to the other cables inside a wire wrap. That might be asking too much since my scenario is most likely a corner case.

It makes me think about orientation of the two boards. removing the space for the converter, and laying the raspberry pi flat along the main board. The entire case could then fit within the 40mm extrusion width of the bear printer. That's a pretty radical change to design that would not be quickly I am sure.

I'm simply sharing my thoughts at this point. Thank you for the work.

Comments deleted.

I have download the 011._Stock_Einsy_Body_NO_RASP, for my stock MK2.5. The two holes are fit perfectly, the other two have 1cm distance. Should i download an other version? Thank you

Hello, the distance between holes of 94mm (centers) are for the Original MK3 frame, I don't know what is the distance for the MK2.5, Can you tell me what's the distance between holes?

The vertical distance is the same for the MK 2.5 and MK3 (94mm), between holes. The horizonal distance is 43.5mm :-))) My first comment is wrong about the 1 cm, i measure the correct distance now :-)))) And if you have time you can make a remix for a mosfet also :-)) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2221242

cbd-3d MOSFET enclosure

this is an awesome control box. i have a question regarding the pi 3b+ wiring. i see in the picture you have the 6 wires coming out of the pi port and 2 more wires coming out of a 5v header. the pi port already has 5v coming out of it. is this an either or kind of thing or are you running 5v in to each of the 5v gpio pins on the pi from the header and the pi port? i want to wire this up and this is my only point of confusion. thanks again.

Hello, the two wires from the 5v are to connect a fan, nothing to do with the Raspberry. The other cable with 6 (5, I will explain) wires is to use with the Raspeberry, I use only 5 wires because the number 2 (Red, +5v) comes from a stepdown converting 24v from PSU to 5v. I hope it helps

that helps a lot. i didn't see in the description and i apologize if it is in there and I just didn't see it. question though, why buck convert from the power supply for the 5v and not just take the 5v from the pi port?

Yes,It's in the description. I use the stepdown because it provides 5A and the Eninsy Rambo only 2A (low power for Raspberry, more if you use a Rasp camera). In fact, Octoprint complains of low power even with the 5A

Please correct your statement as this box is originally designed by me, Wolfgang is my partner in Zaribo project. Or you can say Zaribo Team as the designer.

See the design on I have published on 7th February https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2785745

Original Prusa MK3 - Zaribo Edition - Raspberry Pi 3 and Raspberry Pi Zero Einsy Rambo Box

I didn't know that. I have no problem in correcting it. But the original design I have used is not that, it is the new box published by Wolfgang (https://github.com/Zaribo/PreRelease/blob/master/EinsyBox) on github there is only one contributor, who is the original designer?

The original design is mine, my partner Wolfgang modded the cable ports but this is not important, as mentioned the best way to give credit about Zaribo mods is writing Zaribo Team instead as you already did. Cheers.

no offense to Juan, but if you are the original author, you have the source files used to create this in something other than blender? everything else that I've ever seen uses one of two things: OpenSCAD or Fusion 360. I sing your names from rooftop personally be extremely easy to make other improvements. Right now I'm looking at redesigning the entire thing from the ground up using OpenSCAD. At that point I would just simply say inspired by... =/

I designed it on Fusion 360 but I don't understand your point. Let's say the author didn't share the .step files, and you had to draw it from scratch. This doesn't mean that you have the right to not to mention the original author of the design. This is the spirit of the open source.

no, no, I am 100% open source and giving credit where credit is due. The point of my comment was not about credit, but asking for the original source material to facilitate greater customization. With fusion 360 files, work would be directly derived from your own work. And any such work would be published as open-source as well. Which I would love, because the community at large could then fix errors.

Write your email I will send it as a f360 file....

It is done. Thanks to notice it to me

What's the advantage of wiring directly to the expansion header on the Einsy to the GPIO pins on the Raspberry PI? How does this differ to the USB connection? I know USB has a limitation of 115,200 baud on the serial connection, but what about this method?

In addition to what Juan said, the stock USB serial connection has some performance issues that you can read about here: https://github.com/PrusaOwners/prusaowners/wiki/hoodloader2

The GPIO connection shouldn't suffer from this as far as I know since it's not going through the 32u2. The downside of using GPIO is that you can't flash through it. You'll still need to plug in a USB cable to update the Einsy firmware.

The GPIO speed is the same, I'm using 115,200 baud. But the cable is into the box, so you don't use an external cable (cleaner connection) and I'm using a stepdown to power the Raspberry (GPIO), so you don't have to use an external power supply for the Raspberry.

One more question. Is there instructions somewhere to set up the pi using this configuration. Can't seem to find the port when trying to connect through octoprint.

Yes, on the printer you have to enable te RPi port on Settings menu and follow the point XIV (to add the serial port to Octoprint) of this link: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/Loz15FAgEk-octo-print-raspberry-pi-zero-w?code=400&failed=1&reason=Multilingual+is+not+enabled+on+this+account

Great. Thanks man!

Gotcha. Thanks for the reply.

You recommend the BPI M2 Zero instead of the Raspberry Pi Zero, but I am having a LOT of trouble finding resources describing how to get a working version of ANY OS onto my board. Specifically, I want it to run octoprint. Any advice?

I'm using a Raspberry Pi B+, I have not tried the BPI M2 Zero, the people said that Pi Zero is not enought powered to run Octoprint smoothly. So my recommendation is to use Pi B+ or better with my Raspberry box.

Almost finished printing this. Noticed just in time that the nut pockets on the top are partially printed "in the air". Odd that these are not done like the bottom holes (for einsy) are ? I did not check all the models, this is the 021 (Mk3 Bear einsy no rasp..) one. Also, the model had some problems in it, had to do some healing for it with Netfabb tools.

Yes, I know, but the holes are printed fine enough. By the other hand I've checked the file with Slic3r beta1 and the slice is correct. In fact I'm using this version on my MK3 Full Bear.

Printing this with something like CF PETG makes such holes with parts printed in air cause nasty blobs. Slic3r might not notice those errors in the STL, but other slicers do. Check it with Netfabb and you'll see what I mean.

I see, you can use custom supports on these holes

On my Bear Einsy + Pi box, the X stepper is really close to the case. It's impressive really - I can't slide a sheet of paper between the motor and the case without it binding, but I don't see, feel or hear any obvious signs of rubbing between the motor and the case. Is this the desired level of precision, or should there be more of a gap between the two?

Yes, it is very close, but it works. Actually, I will increase the gap slightly (perhaps 0.2mm), because the idea is to have a strong cover.

Is there a version of this that works with the MK2X Bear and has room for raspberry? Looks like all the modified bodies for the MK2X bear don't include room for a raspberry pi

Hello, you have to use the Bear Raspberry version, body files 121 or 122 and the covers (120s)

These don't specify that they work for the MK2 bear? It is 1cm shorter and I also wasn't sure if the einsy and mini rambo screw holes were the same distance apart. 121 or 122 will definitely work with the mini rambo and the mk2 bear that is 1cm shorter than the mk3 bear?

The holes for rambo and minirambo are the same (in the comments others users checked it). The box works for both frames (MK2 and MK3) because it's a square box and it doesn't fit to the extrusions, in this make you can see how the box is mounted (https://www.thingiverse.com/make:598470). The 1cm difference between MK2s and MK3 doesn't matter.

Universal Zaribo Einsy Box
by Oggs

I love both of the Bear versions. Great work!

A couple of suggestions. First, on the V slot centering "bumps" (whatever they're called), make the area around the hole flush so that they don't interfere with drop-in nuts like this: https://openbuildspartstore.com/drop-in-tee-nuts/

Second, On the pi version you lose the fourth bottom mounting hole which means the case is only supported by the vertical extrusion. It does feel pretty solid, but it seems that you could add a hole at the back, under the Pi's USB and ethernet ports, to mount to the top of the rear extrusion.

One more - the Pi takes M2.5 screws, but the nut traps in the case appear to be for M3 nuts. M2.5 nuts do tighten but are a bit loose in the traps.

Hey Juan,
any chance we can get a version with access to the GPIO pins? The STL files are in such a way that I cannot even subtract the ventilation under the raspberry pi for some reason. Never seen the error message that OpenSCAD gave. I'm currently printing parts for the bear upgrade And would really prefer not to have to use a saw to cut away the ventilation.

Hello. I have published a new version with accesible GPIO pins.

Hello, I'm working on a version where the bottom vent holes are attached to the Rasp cover, so the GPIO are free and it is easier to screw the Raspberry. But I need some time to complete the modifications.

You have a zip file with all the Blender files I have used, perhaps you can export from Blender to a more compatible file format

Is 20% infill good for this?

Yes 20% is enough (Gyroid), and use 4 perimeters

I am very confused by the different comments and designs I see. Can this be used with a BEAR 2.5 upgrade that has the Rambo mini board (The motherboard shipped with all Prusa mk2s)? In one of your comments you say the 2.5 version can work with the bear but it is designed for the MK3 (Einsy Rambo) board? I'm very confused why an MK2X electronics enclosure would have the holes for an einsy rambo.

Is it correct that the stock MK3 power supply wires are not long enough for use with the Pi version? I can make the modifications, I just want to be sure I have the parts if wire extensions are needed.

Hey Juan, I have added this to the optional parts of the Bear Upgrade here: https://github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade/blob/master/optional_parts.md . Thanks for the good work and thanks from Zaribo designer too!

Thank you very much

1st. i realize how bitchy this sounds.... but i built a Haribo 3030 LONG TIME ago.... i am number 40-ish named Grooperdude. all i had was problems. i cant tell u how much cash i spent on a printer i THOUGHT the Haribo3030 would print better than my STOCK MK2S. i was wrong. the bushing design just has far too much play in it when using misumi rails. EVEN IF you using the Musumi linear bearings without trhe seal on the end.... the unsealed linear bearings have far too much play... almost the same as the DRYLIN Bushings....
again... i realize i sound like a super entitled asshole... but is there anyone who is willing to help me Transfer my design to the Zaribo type design for MK2.5? i have all the Prusa Parts along with MANY version of bushings and bearings ( thanks to many trials and errors...more erros than anything) from Misumi to japan to Drylin $20/ part bushings...both compressed and normal. ( i have come to the conclusion that...sealed linear bearings are just overall more accurate. ).... thankyou for any support you are willing to give. i am literally at my wits end. (please excuse all the typos.

I can lend a hand in person if you're in New York. Otherwise you're out of luck. I built a 1:1 mk2s clone and then upgraded to bear and it's always been 100% perfect.

Is there any way we can completely remove the bottom ventilation in favor of a separate cover? As it is, it's very difficult to get to the GPIO ports once everything is secured. With the existing design, there's also very little chance of completely securing the raspberry pi. You can't access one of the screw holes. I'm using the raspberry pi to communicate with the board as well as dynamic LED strips, but If I need to make a change or add to the board, it's a lot more difficult it needs to be.

Hello, I will think about your suggestion, to add the bottom as an optional cover. By the other hand, I have mounted my raspberry using the three screws, the bottom holes are designed to be aligned with the raspberry screw holes.

Let me rephrase; it's impossible to get to the screws for the raspberry pi using a standard screwdriver. Aligning the ventilation slots with those holes and increase the width would allow screwdriver to go in between. However, simply removing the bottom ventilation altogether would be a fantastic improvement. I need to print another one soon and I was contemplating just taking a dremel and cutting the away all the bottom ventilation slots.

Also, on the Bear printer, the vertical extrusion is secured by a triangular fixed plate. The opening that you have the power is circular and does not allow the case to be positioned in a clean way. If you're simply making a 45° angle versus a circular cutout, it would fit nicely. I modified an stl to do that, but your files do not modify very well using openscad.

Excellent work, Juan.
I, like many others printed the box for Bear MK3. Thank you for nice design.

I would like to print the EinsyBox-CableCover2-1x.stl with some shallow ridges inside the radius. I am using different mesh cover for my extruder cable bundle and it is thinner than Prusa's textile sleeve. I wanted to modify it myself and could not find the source file. May I ask you for the favour please? Either make some 1 mm ridges or publish the source file. Many thanks!

Oh, I also had to make a hole in the cover for the PSU cables. I run them through the extrusion.


There is a rar file with all the (Blender) files published since some time ago. I usually keep it updated.

Yep, I know. But I cant find the cable clips in there.


I have added them into the rar file. Hope it will help you.

Hi again! I'm redoing part of my bear, and see that you've created a box that fits the bear. However...

On 2019/01/18 you did this: "Removed lower vent holes from boxes to reduce heat from heatbed."

This also removed the space for PI Zero, so it no longer fits. I'm not going to use a PI Zero, since it's underpowered for octoprint. But I'm using the Bananapi M2 Zero, which works fine.

Could you re-add the "depression" so that a PI Zero fits in that case?

Hello, It's done, I have added the depression on Bear boxes.

I didn't get around to trying the modified case with depression until today. Unfortunately, it appears the Banana Pi Zero doesn't quite fit within the depression. There's a noticeable bulge on the back of the case. Would it be possible to do something like Prusa does with the original box?

I think the solution is easy. Print four spacers (diameter 6mm with a 3mm hole, height=you need) to separate the Einsy Board and use larger bolts.

That would work - except for the top USB port.

Yes, the USB and reset ports must be cutted, I could increase the einsy board height. I can increase the height only 1mm because the reset port. What box are you using?

I'm using 021. Full bear, no RPI/MMU.

Please try this one. I have increase the Einsy Board height by 2mm, I think it will be enought. Please send me your feedback. This box has a honeycomb vent holes style, I'm doing a new cover, these are the new style for the next boxes upgrade.

That's the MMU version though, I'm not using MMU.

Sorry, I misunderstood your previous answer. Here it is the no MMU2 version.

Thank you for sharing your nice 3D files.
I am using this cover for my mk3 bear vision. "files\020._MK3_Bear_Einsy_Cover_Fan_NO_RASP_v5.stl".
Is there a way to reduce the thickness by 1 mm? now the cover barely touches the stepper motor.

This is a wonderful case. Thank you for the attention to detail!

Any chance of adding an option for E3D's PT100 amp? https://e3d-online.com/pt100-amplifier-board

Hey Juan! Thank you again for all of your support, but any chance for an update on this? I don't want to resort to using glue or tape to mount the PT100 amps inside...

Hello, now I'm a bit busy. Which box do you want to print?


Understand you are busy of course and this is a hobby. If you have time later to help, it's much appreciated. Huge thanks for your efforts!

I'm working on this solution to attach a PT-100 amp, a slot to insert the board. See the attached picture, What do you think?

Thanks for trying to help! That looks like it could work, but I think there needs to be a way to fasten screws to the board so that it doesn't move. Perhaps just two would be enough?

Thank you for sharing your object files.

However, I noticed an error in the object files, after 15 hrs of printing...


I didn't noticed it, till it was printing that portion, and it broke off... 15hr print toast. :( . I should have exampled the output before printing.

When/if you could fix that, I'll try and print it again.

thanks for your work.

Hello, I fixed it two days ago. The old boxes were sliced correctly with Slic3r 1.42.x but they were wrongly sliced by using Slice3r Alpha. Now the boxes work well with all Slic3r versions, I'm sorry for the waste of filament and time.

Thank you for your feedback

Hi, Just in case no one else has pointed this out, for the file - 011._Stock_Einsy_Body_NO_RASP.STL, the top two holes for mounting the Einsy board are filled in. FYI

I am going to use this on a Mk2S Prusa frame, I don't know if the mounting holes are in the correct place but will drill them as necessary. If you have time you may want to add a version for stock Mk2S.

Keep up the good work.

Oh, thanks for your advice, It has been a mistake, I will fix it, at the moment you can drill the holes with a 3mm bit.
I don't know the distances of the MK2S holes, if you send me a scheme with the measures I could try.

Hi. This is great. I'm not sure why it took me so long to find this. For the MK2 and MK2.5 do you have any plans to add a space for the MOSFET or am I the only one who wants this?


Thanks. I'm sorry but at the moment no, there are a lot of versions already. But you have the Blender files to do your how modifications.

I appreciate the response. The ability to do this myself is just not there. Thanks for making a great case.

Thanks. I'm sorry but at the moment no, there are a lot of versions already. But you have the Blender files to do your how modifications.

The Bear Box is not compatible with the Full Bear Upgrade for the mk2.5. It is to big (see Photos).

Yes , I have checked it now, there are 1cm of difference, the present box is only for MK3. I'm sorry, I thought the frame is the same. I will modify it to be compatible with MK2.5.

Oh that would be nice. Yes the mK2.5 frame is 1cm smaller. You can see it on the Build Helper. 106mm=mK3 and 96mm=mK2.5. Dont forget to change the Names of the files :o)

Hello, please can you check the MK2.5 Bear modification. Please check first the cover (less plastic and time) and later if it is fine the box. Thanks in advance

Ok. I write you a message when i finished

Nice build, thank you!

But can i ask where or what versions on the Y rods mounts and Y axis motor mount you have pictured, and foot mounts?


Hello, you are welcome. The Y-Rods are the standard for the Zaribo and Bear (I don´t know which picture are you referring). And the Zaribo Y-axis motor mount is also the standard but adding this mod (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2941014).


Y Motor Holder MK3 (Zaribo)
by vekoj

Thanks again, yes the Zaribo Y rod Axis mount, i just found them..


Hello, great design on the box. I printed it out and love the look, however I cannot use it without replacing the wires for the power supply and probably the right X Axis motor wires. I am not using a stepdown because I have 2 bears I'm building, a MK2.5 and a MK3. The MK2.5 board doesn't have the ability to use the zero w. I plan on running a short USB cable along the outside from the Raspberry Pi. Is there a way I can get a minimal height version with Raspberry pi where the stock wires will fit? It looks like you previously had a version without the stepdown section, and that would have been awesome to have as I think I would be able to get the stock wires where the need to go.

Hello, thank you I'm glad you like the box. I'm working on a new Bear Raspberry version with the same shape of the frame (like the no Raspberry version), and I'm trying to reduce the height (i know the problem with cables lengths), but I need same days, a lot of work at job. The Prusa cables are for their frame, I always replace or enlarge them.

Thank you for your hard work, I will be printing the new cases/covers tonight!

Thanks for the quick reply! Take your time. I will use the stock case in the meantime.

I have a small suggestion or request if possible. For NO RASP versions the fan mount on the cover only ends up blowing on the bottom corner fuses and nothing else. If it was a little higher it would actively cool the steppers and mainboard chip.

Yes, It is a good idea. I was thinking about realize it also. I'm working on this idea.

I really like this design but am hesitant to print it due to some printability issues I see. A couple ways you can improve this is to use chamfers instead of fillets against the build surface and for the hex holes for the wire clamps: copy what Prusa originally did with the other build surface facing hexes. I've attached a screenshot to illustrate.

The Einsy board hex holes are like the picture. Ok, the other holes can be improved but I can print the box pretty well with the current design (see my pictures). Otherwise I'm improving these holes and the bear design to follow better the extrusion and angle shapes, but there are a lot of variations and I need time

Yeah, I understand the time and effort it takes. Notice I didn't actually ask you to do anything, just made some suggestions. Thanks for being responsive and good luck with your project.

I know. Thank you for your valuable feedback, I really appreciate them. This is the way to learn more and to improve these objects

Wow this is inspiring seeing you respond this way. I appreciate you more, I am printing 122 and 120, it took me a minute to see what you were doing then made it really easy. Can't wait, i have the kit coming with new rods bearings and extruder, feel like im building a new printer.

Thank you. I'm doing a better Bear version. Following the shape of the Bear frame, still a work in progress

At the moment i’m printing the current Bear version, but i can’t wait for this one :) nice job!

Edit: how stupid from me, this version is already uploaded, and i’m printing the old version..... i’ll try the new one tigjt away!

oh wow exciting, thanks for all of this amazing work. I'm already printing the one there so i'll just stick with that, but if it's done before i start the build i may reprint. thanks!

I will publish it tomorrow.

Comments deleted.

Can we get the blender files for this? There are a couple of things I'd like to add and Change for my own custom implementation.

Hello, I have uploaded them today. Please check out the selection groups, I have some of them, I think you can find them useful for your modifications.

I have a full Bear MK3. I also run the Raspberry pi for Octoprint. The body is great, I really like the way the Extruder and x axis cables route out of the top. The only issue I have is that the cover wont fit, it hits the extruder motor. Is there a thinner cover available as I really don't want to replace the body if I don't have to. Thanks for a great design!

Which cover, the box cover (with fan or not) or the Raspberry cover?

I am using a Raspberry Pi with No fan. If it will make the cover too thin, I can reprint the box, but would need to move the mounting holes?

Hello, here you have a thinner cover. It is 1.75mm thinner.

I printed it and it worked perfectly! Thank you so much!

You are welcome. I will publish the thinner versions

Hello, is it compatible with Full Bear MK2.5?

The Bear box has holes to be attached to the 4020 extrusions. The only doubt is the electronics board, the holes are designed for the Rambo board used by the MK3.

Just a heads up. 000._Einsy Cover_NO_RASP.stl is too thick when mounted on 022._Bear_Einsy_Body_MMU2_NO_RASP. The X motor hits the cover. I was able to use the previous cover I printed about a week ago, 100._Einsy_Cover_Fan_RASP, it's much thinner. The motor clears it close, but fine.

Thank you for your feedback. I'm still mounting my Full Bear. I will check it, probably I will move the entire box towards the hotbed two or three millimeters. Do you think there are enought space for this movement?

Yes, you have at least a 3-4MM on hotbed side before the extruder bundle will hit the case.

It might make more sense to make the cover thinner. Like your previous version with fan for the rPi case. It's at least 3-4MM thinner than this version. The extra bulk really isn't needed unless someone's case is stuffed badly with wires.

Thank you. At the end I have reduced the Bear Boxes size (by 3mm) to prevent the X-Motor hits against the cover, so they use a different cover (file 020). I have updated the Bear files (020, 021 and 022) today.

Great updates with the clamps. Any chance you can update 022._Bear_Einsy_Body_MMU2_NO_RASP to add the new clamps and update the logo from the Giraffe to the Bear? I've decided to move my rPi elsewhere and wanted to print the NO_RASP case, but it's missing your latest great changes. Thanks in advance.

Hello, I'm sorry, I forgot to update the bear logo on 022. I have added clamps to no Raspberry Bear boxes (021 and 022 files) as well.

Just a heads up, I just finished printing the Bear rPi case with fan, and the screw hole in the rPi cover toward the USB end of the rPi is in the wrong position. It looks like it was just accidentally shifted 5mm away from the edge of the cover.

Oh, I'm sorry, I forgot to update the Rasp Cover, now I have uploaded the right cover. (Einsy_Rasp_Cover_v3.stl)

Would it be possible to get the step file? I'd like to make some modifications, but they are a bit more radical than what other people would want.

I'm sorry I have no step files. I have done the boxes by using Blender.

ok, cool. I can use Blender, openscad, fusion, etc. Can you post the sources? I'm keen on adding 40mm fan support

Hi, could you add a NO RASP cover with the 40mm fan mount as well? I noticed that the screw holes don't line up for the rasp cover with the no rasp box. Thanks!

Yes, it's done. The cover is slightly different. I have uploaded the no Raspberry cover with fan mount holes.

Thank You! You have done an amazing job.

Thank you for your suggestions. In fact in my present Einsy Box (old design) I have a fan attached to the Einsy Cover.

I like the design, but I found some areas that could be improved.

Also, can a fan mount be added for the RPI?

I also have a suggestion to let the box sit lower down on the Bear Frame.

Edit: Also found an issue with printing the inset screw holes from the bottom. Better methods like adding steps to slowly close it in, or as I like to do mine, make solid for 1 layer and use a drill to cleanup after.

Thank you for your valuable feedback

Okay, I like a lot of the corrections you have made, but this one is stopping me from printing it out because I would really not want to use supports.

Hello, you don't need supports. I have printed the box several times without them. Here are an example, also the nuts fit perfectly

In my experience, printing holes like that without supports has bad results. The printer would be trying to print the perimeter for the inside of the hole over open air, and you simply can't do that.

I also had issues with that square nut for the left RPI cover screw.

Yes, it is very narrow. I'm fixing it. Tomorrow I will update the corrected files

Print in progress for the bear version...
I'm curious about the routing of the x-stepper wires. They are going through the top instead of the side, like in the original prusa design, right? And what are the tube-parts for?

I think the tube parts are to put arround the cables, ask Wolfgang, it is his design. My x-axis motor is rotated 180 degrees, so the cable face up.

Oh, nice idea. Guess i will do the same!

Would it be possible to add mounts for a stepdown, like the case in the comments on the Zaribo einsy?

Apparently, link to comment doesn't work well. This image shows the mount:


Original Prusa MK3 - Zaribo Edition - Raspberry Pi 3 and Raspberry Pi Zero Einsy Rambo Box

Hello, I'm adding mounts for a setpdown. What size are the inner holes, 2 or 3 mm?

Ses! That would have been great! :-)