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jeffnope

Tarantula Reframed, using stock extrusions: same frame - better prints, Project Name: CARL

by jeffnope Dec 24, 2018
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Hi! I am really struggling with threading the XY belt tensioner nut onto the belt tensioner inner. Any tips with this?

You may want to try reprinting the nut with a lower flow% if that doesn't work try a negative horizontal expansion (like -0.05mm) and if that doesn't work: post a picture.

Horizontal expansion did the trick! (Though I did need a whole 0.5mm rather than 0.05)
I've been printing this set for almost two months now and am on the final stretch, extremely excited!
Every time my machine has broken down in one way or another is another reminder of just why I am doing this, haha.

Here's a picture of my parts and my failed prints buckets, in case you might enjoy!
Thank you so much for your work in designing this kit.

Very cool to see, I think you are using PLA for the nuts? this would give it some shrinkage that needs to be compensated by horizontal expansion. When I printed the nuts in PETG it didn't need horizontal expansion because it only shrinks a tiny bit. Also printing at low layer height of 0.1mm or 0.15mm can get much better threads than higher layer heights.

I've done everything in PETG, but my setup seems to have a very great deal of holes being undersized if they are facing down.

Yep, threads are all 0.1mm layer height and I've got them butter smooth yet without wobble, correctly pulling the inner assembly back Really happy with them.
Now getting the X-axis assembly onto the final verification stage - I'll try the same trick there too to see if I can make the slidey thing slide in.
Hopefully, I can get a CARL style printer setup right on the first assembly, without needing to go back and improvise a functional temporary hybrid to reprint something.

Nice, PETG is way better long term, PLA is too creepy, and crispy, for printer parts, so to speak.
I think you will get it to work, it may take some filing / sanding / drilling, to get everything to fit, but it will fit and it will work. The best way I found to clean the edges of PETG is slicing with a sharp razor blade, and sometimes scissors, it leaves a clean look. Please post some finished pics, or near finished, because no Tarantula is ever actually finished.

What is the thing up have put inside the idler pulleys?
I thought it was a tiny bearing, but my local hardware store didn't have any just 15mm OD.

The Z idler pulley pulley in the design uses stock wheel bearings, only 1 instead of 2 like the Idler pulleys on the X axis.
The Z idler pulley can be substituted with one of the stock idler pulleys, use an eccentric nut as a spacer and it bolts together.

How did you force the bearings out from the wheels? I thought I'd ask before resorting to something drastic.

Sawed my way through the wheels, job done. Y axis finished, two more to go!

Jamakeri,
I was able to pound out the bearings by putting the wheels on a large socket wrench, so the bearings can drop into the socket. put a screwdriver into the hole of the top bearing so you can reach the bearing on the other side. Looks like you found another way ;-)
Thanks for posting your build, I still don't have a nice pic of my build yet, the wires need work. Where did you hide the control pcb?

The control PCB is located half underneath the bed at the back of the machine. It is cooled together with my raspberry pi kind of indirectly by a gigantic Noctua fan.

Some pros and cons:

  • looks neat
  • is very very quiet compared to stock
  • surprisingly easy access (the entire setup is screwed down into the platform, and the platform can be easily rotated 45 degrees to give decent access or 90 degrees to give excellent access)
  • only one stepper cable needed to be extended. Extensions to these involve 8 wire joinings, so the fewer of these the better.
    +overall cable management can be fairly neat, with the vast majority of stuff hanging out at the back not getting in the way but also not cut to exact lengths or fastened onto the frame in a manner that makes them a PIA to remove or modify later.
  • wire routing is a bit of an art - one of the stepper cables goes through the bed frame, for example, and another is taped down to the platform so it forms a sharp(ish) straight angle and lets the bed pass by it. There was a bit of trial and error moving the Y-axis back and forth to see if it was doing something untoward.
  • the big noctua fan needs to be positioned right so it both gives air circulation to the boards and does not cool down the poor heated bed beyond its heating capacity. The stock Tevo board is depressingly slow to heat up anyway, but ultimately I managed it so that it doesn't really get affected. The bed also does not appear to heat up the electronics, thanks to hot air rising up rather than falling down.

As an extra for repurposing an ATX power supply, as that's the other sort of unique thing about my implementation:
1) the LED strips actually serve to apply a load on the 5V rail of the PSU: without them, the thing goes into shut down the moment you draw current at 24V from it.
2) A non-modular PSU tends to have a cable management sleeve built into it. If you are willing to commit, you can steal it and use it for the X carriage wiring while cutting off and potentially sealing the rest of the cables you are not using. It is a good idea to keep several cables of each voltage around though, in particular, 2-3 wires for the 5V configuration. Strapping them together keeps the cables from overheating. For others, you will need power for a bunch of stuff (like that Noctua fan!) so you might as well use the cables that already come from the PSU.

Ah, thank you very much indeed! I just found it from the description 14min after you replied.

Today I got done almost all of the fixturing - still need to file/sand the sliders to actually fit, now that I finally understood how they are meant to work.

Browsing your other creations mod out of curiousity I came across your y axis standalone mod and suddenly realise I may have made a terrible mistake with the bed here - I somehow forgot the holes were meant to carry wheels, and in my aggressive operations to "compensate for having printed everything 0.315mm too big" (took the time to calibrate my horizontal offset, very well worth it) I expanded the big holes all the way up to 8mm. Might be that tomorrow I'll be glad I have yet to take the printer apart: it stands ready to clean up my mistakes when need be.

(As was the case with the support stands. In trying to heat fit the nuts inside the slots - in this particular geometry quite a hard job really - I both messed up the part beyond repair and burnt my hands in a manner that has taught me to respect the ol' soldering tool in a whole new way. Reprinted, and turns out the damn nuts were meant to be a press fit to begin with.)

Anyway, here's the progress today!

Looks awesome wish i had found this sooner. I have already done a lot of similiar mods. And i've already redesigned my own undercarriage which i'm about to print. based on the 2060 Y carriage mod. But love the way you reused the 2040 extrusion instead. that makes a lot of sense. and still helps stabilize bed better then the original. I'd be interested in switching to the belt driven Z but I think i may switch to inverted Z 1st and see how that goes.

2060 will be very stable, and you can use the 2040 to go under the 2060 so you won't have the gap to fill in with a part. A dual inverted Z is the best way to go if you keep using threaded rods, if you use oldham couplers, and use better couplers than the stock spirals, If you are going to keep a single Z rod, you may have some stability issues due to off balance weight on that setup.

I like the design, however I am going for a dual Z-rod instead of the belts. My printer is already assembled with most of the parts, but I'd like to redesign the right and left 1-wheel parts to accomodate a z-rod.
Could you share the actual design files as well to make modifying easier?

I can, but I won't have time until tonight, maybe you can post the mod as a remix. I think I'll post the full .f3d file to provide everything.

The entire fusion 360 file is uploaded now, it's open source from now on.

Thank you man, I really appreciate that!
Right now I have made quite a hacky workaround, but I might redesign this later and will post it as a remix. I've made a part that clips around the 1-wheel parts and uses that single screw to mount as well. The z-rods are driven by a single motor using a belt.

Thanks for the pictures, I wouldn't have been able to visualize it. Did you use a stock wheel as an idler pulley? it's supposed to be a printed pulley that uses the bearings from the wheels, but if it works... Also, if you want a little more Z travel you can use the stock metal corner braces at the top instead of the printed ones, they are plenty stable on mine. Keep us posted on your build.

Yeah I know, I forgot to print the idler pulleys. They are replaced now. I don't need the extra Z-travel right now but I'll keep it in mind.
There is still some really bad Z banding and I have no idea where it is coming from. I was thinking something with Z-rods themselves but I can't find what is wrong. Had the same issue with one rod and with two before switching to your design.

I'm willing to bet you it's the spiral couplers, I chased my tail with them until I used an oldham coupler of my own design, and then designed a magnetic coupler which worked great, I never got around to publishing those designs, but there is a similar one here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:804873
The idea is no side forces get transferred to the Z-rod, and the Z rod will need bearings at both ends of course.
Some people have had luck with this:
https://www.banggood.com/5mm-x-8mm-Aluminum-Flexible-Spider-Shaft-Coupling-OD25mm-x-L30mm-CNC-Stepper-Motor-Coupler-Connector-p-995515.html?cur_warehouse=CN

Or go with the Z-belts, I made it that way for this Z-banding problem.

CNC Router stepper motor to leadscrew couple and housing

Hey dude. Amazing build. Just finished putting it all together. Have you run into any issues with the y-axis. I keep getting shifts and it's like my belt is binding somewhere along the routing through the frame. Or at least that's what I think as it is only using one pully and o e cog instead of the original setup.

I haven't had any problems with it binding or layer shifting on any axis. Some things it could be: heat bed wires getting caught on something during printing, loose grub screw on the motor shaft, over tightened wheels, over tightened belt, over tightened idler pulley, bad bearings on wheels or idler pulley. Try removing the belt and sliding the build plate by hand. Also it would be cool to see the build, no one has posted a build yet...

I've been printing this rebuild for the past couple days. love the design my friend. Just have one question. are you using the stock extruder mounting plate for on top of z-slider left 2. I have the titan i planned on using but I'm unsure how i would mount this as I don't have the original plate anymore

Yes, I used the stock steel mounting plate, you can buy one just like it on amazon or ebay, or print something like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2279743/files (only you need some different holes to mount it)
also: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2992331

2020 Extruder Motor Mount (for E3D Titan)
by thnikk
GIRO - Titan Extruder Bracket

Are the Z brazes adjustable in angle or is it a fixed angle?

The angle is fixed at a 30,60,90 triangle, but it can be adjusted with the set screws to make it a perfect angle.

when i finish my half done p3steel im going to make this one... pls dont delete it:)

I would never delete it, 100's of hours of work in this one, and my build is still working great!

This looks wonderful. Would be tempted to try it once it's out of beta testing. Personally I might also require a manual

Thank you, and I have thought about making a build video once it's fine tuned good enough, so keep watching.

Awesome, I will

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

First, that's very nice rework !
I'm planning on making it, but with another X carriage. But I can't figure out where the X endstop is on your design
Do you mind lighting this point ? :)

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Its on the file called X-carriage, the post sticking down with 2 holes in it, I'll need to add a picture showing it close up, you may need to make a thing that will hit the X endstop switch wherever you mount it

Thanks for the detail and picture ! really appreciate

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Update: 1/15/2019 For those using a stock X carriage: Added a small part to press the endstop switch on the X axis of a stock carriage (or compatible location) "X-endstop-switch-press-stock-location-OPTIONAL"

Thats good work man. Added you as the first total conversion listed on r/tevotarantula. I like it.

Dasflux, thank you! I have seen some of your work too, you do good work too. I didn't think about it being the first total conversion, but it does go farther than anything I've seen.

I seen another one floating around. Man, actually... i have been working on a total conversion since February. If your interested I can share the insanity i've gone through on this thing and the money wasted. Its close to complete. I have nearly 100 fixes to do in the comments... and ill never do design another machine again. This was nuts... too much work.

I am interested, and I know what you mean about designing, so many hours, but for me it was fun, and I’m still tweaking the clearance of some parts as I print them and test fit.
Is this the project: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2978175

Tevo Tarantula (Redesign)