This is an integration of the CR-10 control box under the printer.
It includes an mount for an integrated Raspberry PI (for Octoprint) and a power relay.
I recommend printing at 0.3 layer height as a compromised between incredibly long print times and good quality.
You don't need any extra fans or wires for this. You can pretty much remove the hardware from the control box an install in the mounts. In order to remove and re-install the two case fans, you will need to cut their power wires and re-connect them. There is enough slack in the wires to support any connection method. I used JCY connectors, which I crimped, but you could also solder them or use terminal blocks.
You will need extra t-slot nuts to mount the cases to the CR-10 frame.
I do not use the SD-Card, but if you do, you will need an SD-Card extender. (There is a cut-out in the case for the display ribbon cable, which you can also use for the SD-Card extender cable.
I recommend loosely passing the cables through the various cut-outs before mounting the boards. The cut-outs visible from the top are designed to be a small as possible when the case is mounted, but they have extra space when unmounted.
Next mounting the cases to the printer and then route all the cables. Mount the boards last. You can mount the boards before the cables, but it is more fiddly to connect them and fit cable-ties.
You will need to replace the standard feet with taller ones. I have provided two designs that look like 4040 extrusion. They can be used with or without squash-balls. (Personally I'm not convinced of the benefits of squash-ball feet, as they seem to increase ringing artefacts on printouts.)
By the way, the standard CR-10 filament holder can be installed on the top of the printer, with no modifications to the printer or holder, you just need a 2 x t-nuts and bolts.
I used the screen case design from "CR10 All-In-One" (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2841111) by Jan_P. Its a good case,so why re-invent the wheel :-)
I installed the screen on the left-hand side of my printer. If you would like it on the right, I recommend using the stand from JanP's CR10 All-In-One.
For either location, you will need a longer ribbon cable. (I removed the connectors from the existing cable and crimped them onto a new cable, or you can just buy a longer cable (with 5x2 connectors).
The rear panel for the board includes a mounting point and cutout for an Ethernet cable and power lead for the raspberry pi.
I used this Ethernet lead: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EF000KA
And this micro USB extension: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DS6KBJX
I used the stock 40x20 fan for the PSU rear panel (cooling the Mosfet). I mounted it with rubber, rather than screws and it doesn't seem too noisy.
For the Board read panel, I started with the stock 50x10 fan, but it was too noisy, so I replaced it with a 40x10 Noctua and used rubber mounts - much better!
As the power supply has both the air intake and exhaust on the bottom, I've added a simple 'duct' to redirect the warm air to the front of the printer, away from the intake.
If you look carefully in the pictures, you'll see that I have removed the 'grill' from the power supply fan and added some more slots to the inlet vent. If you do that, please be careful - aluminium dust is toxic and you can end up with some sharp edges. Obviously remove the cover (and remove power before you remove the cover!) Those changes were enough to quite down the power supply air-flow, so I have kept the stock fan for the power supply.
I have also included two drawers for the front of the printer. When installing them, install the "Covers" to the printer first, then the base should clip on to each cover. The drawer pieces will fit either side, so just print two of each.
FYI: I have updated the drawers as there was a problem with the catch. (There are also holes for pegs or screws, for extra strength, if your hands are small enough to fit inside when they are assembled.)