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stonemore

Hinged Handcuffs | Realistic

by stonemore Nov 14, 2018
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When I print the pawl, the overhangs are sagging. Is that part of the filing you were talking about or am I doing something wrong?

Looks like the orientation of the part I uploaded is wrong. Rotate it down flat and it should print nicely.

Thanks for creating this. If there is a metric hardware version that would be grateful..
One more thing, I see the screw hole is not through hole, but a one layer filament to fill the hole, is that intentionally added when designing it?

M2 would probably fit.

The thin layer of material was put there to make it a support-free print. Just shove the screw through or clear with a drill bit. It’s a great trick to remove supports.

M2 countersunk screw is okay, but the M2 nut is smaller than the designed slot.
I wish to learn the technique how do you trace it from a picture to CAD, I want to scale up and modify it. Thanks.

Try this. The nut recesses should be good for a M2 nut.

In terms of tracing, do you mean starting from a picture to an actual printed object? What CAD package are you using

Thanks for the new STL file, I would try it later.
Yes, I mean from a picture to STL, I wish to know the technique about it. I can use several CAD software, such as OnShape, Creo (ProE) Direct Modeling, SolveSpace...

i have been trying and trying to print this but it will just not work for me would you guys be able to print it for me then ship it to me

What is not working? Check out this make for how all the parts should be printed https://www.thingiverse.com/make:572827

Hinged Handcuffs | Realistic

so i tryied printing this am i supposed to print the covers upside down

They are just great.

Sweet! Post a make :)

How do you know?

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Test thoroughly before wearing

Any chance you could re-do the body model in a folded configuration? You can only get one side and perhaps the hinge on the bed on a smaller 5"-6" machine.

Try these. I haven't printed this but you can scale the pin size if things are too tight of a fit. It's a blind pin so you can't press it out once you press it in. Print the pin laying down. You could print the hinge standing up and might even be stronger that way. Would need supports but might be worth it.

Thanks so much. I tried hacking away at it trying to separate the parts using tinkercad (the only thing I am proficient with). I had the same thoughts you described above. The only thing I considered doing differently was using a round hole for the pin instead of the rounded square profile, so a short stainless steel pin or threaded rod could be used for the hinge.

The squareish printed pin should be real strong, especially with a high infill and since it’s in double sheer. But I can round off that hole if you want.

Thanks, not necessary. That's just the idea I had how to rejoin everything once separated. I can manage editing the model to include a simple hole. It was the deconstruction of the hinge from the assembly into its component parts that was the difficulty for me, then restacking and aligning it for a small build plate.

Seperate Connected parts in your slicer save individually

I'm not sure how well it'd come out with supports.. You'll probably need a lot of finishing work to make things smooth. but here it is if you want to try! (That STL is rotated 90 degrees, sorry.)

I could also separate the bodies and do a through hole for a long screw (or even a long printed dowel), and print the 3 pcs separately.

Thanks. I'm happy with the way my printer does supports and they come away pretty cleanly with little work. Orienting it the optimum way is a simple task. Unfortunately with a small print bed, it's either printing it folded with supports, or nothing at all!