MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


Geeetech A10M Cura Profile

by jdharris Nov 12, 2018
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

thanks from a noob.

Thank you!! Really usefull.
Do you have any idea if Cura has an option to start printing from another extruder at a set layer? Or even start mixing extruder % ? I hope they implement this in the future!

Thank you very much for this profile !

the folder does not exist on cura 4.0, at least here.
but also in the appdata the files are different, and not .json files
how to fix?

My bad, has to be in the resources folder

I performed this last night, the folders are there just as specified in the instructions. You are not to use the appdata folder at all.

Should this profile work for the A10 Standard as well?

It is possible as the dimensions are the same and it is basically the same machine. You will have to change the number of extruders to 1 and take out the gcode for the extruder and then it should basically work.

For Linux users (Arch Linux in my case) :
Definitions directory: /home/your_username/.local/share/cura/3.5/definitions/
Extruders directory: /home/your_username/.local/share/cura/3.5/extruders/

Feel free to add this to the instructions

I'v tested it and works fine.

But I recommend to add this command line at the GCODE end
M140 S0 ;Set Temp to cero Bed
It will set the hotbet to cero temp. Else it will be On (wasting electricity) till you disconnect it.

You need to check your slicer and gcode as this is not needed. Before Cura puts in the custom end gcode that is pet of this profile, it inserts M140 S0 and M107 automatically. Thank you for the suggestion though, and to help you further 0 is spelled zero not cero.

Hi. Why did you set the X and Y dimensions at 235 mm ? the bed is 220 mm, not 235

measure again. It has an overall dimension of 235, but recommended print area of 220mm. Measure your bed and you will see that it is physically 235mm.

Hello! Thank you very much for this!!! Quick question, if my retraction is working nicely on the part, but I'm getting stringing to the purge tower... is there a setting that I can adjust to have it use the same retraction as the part?

I don't recall any specifics for the tower, but I would suggest checking the temperature as it may be too warm, and increase the travel speed if necessary to 120-150 range. That may help with the stringing. Usually adjusting the temperature down by 5 degree increments until it the stringing disappears or becomes manageable is a useful trick.

Hello and thanks a lot. I had a lot of trouble with under extrusion before installing the new firmware on my new A10M. I had disassembled all the parts of the printer thinking it was a mechanical issue...
My only problem now is there is no more filament cost in Cura. Do you have an idea to solve it ?

Coasting is still an option, but it is under experimental if I remember correctly. Also, after calibrating your extruder, and tightening the tension screw on the extruders), it will correct many of the issues.

If you meant Cost, that is configured under the Manage Materials area.

Hello and thanks for sharing your profile. Maybe you can help me, when printing only with the second extruder the bed heats up correctly but the printer starts to print without heating the hot end, the printer is not recognizing the command to set the T1 temperature, if this profile is working correctly for you I can presume that must be something in my firmware. Can you give any clue of how to solve this problem? On simplify 3d I have bypassed this problem just setting the T0 temperature even when printing with T1 but I want to make it work on cura.

Best Regards

I wanted to let you know that I hadn't given up on this, and I think I know what the culprit is now after being able to recreate this issue and playing around with it. Cura is at the fault and here is what is happening. Cura doesn't know how to work with a mixing hotend. So when it assigns T0 and T1 to each of the extruders, it also wants to assign those same tools to the hotends. The issue is that the A10M and others like it don't have an additional hotend for it to heatup. Essentially it is being told to heat up T1 and cool off T0. With the T0 command being able to start cooling and the T1 command not being valid, the temp drops and the printer starts to print with nothing being extruded.

The only workaround I have for this issue and your scenario at this time is to leave the object you want to print to use extruder 1. Then in the GCode file created by Cura, try adding a T1 just after LAYER:0. This may initiate the tool change to use the second extruder after everything has warmed up and is getting ready to print. I will test this tomorrow as well and will report back.

Alright, After some testing today, I found a way around this issue. As I had put in before, simply slice the object in Cura using extruder 1 and then modify your GCode with a T1 somewhere in the starting script. It can be put in right after this line ";Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.6.0" and make sure there are no other references to T0. With using extruder 1, there shouldn't be any references to T0, but with everyone using different starting and end scripts its good to point this out.

This is just a work around for Cura as there are some other slicers that have accommodated for the issue of dual extruders and single nozzle. Some people may blame the firmware for not being able to interpret the gcode correctly, but other blame the slicers for not accommodating a single nozzle, dual extruder printer. Blame is equal to both parties and this simple work around will fix it if you are attempting to print with just extruder 2.

Hi, I've had the exact same issue, For single prints I'm happy to print with Ex1, and I'm guessing for multiple colour settings the temperature will remain consistent.

My main concern, is that when printing with PVA as support (I'm lucky enough to be testing with 190degC PVA, but other support materials vary) will the temperature not be controlled by Ext2?

You mention other slicers, what would you recommend for more control?

Many thanks for your advice

Please make sure that you have checked the start and end scripts of the extruders and the printer. If there aren’t scripts for the extruders, then you need to redownload and update the extruder json files.

Hello, tahnks for your reply, there are scripts for both extruders and I Already set the temperatures for both extruders, they are all the same (215) even the standby temperature is already set to 215, analyzing the generated G code I can see:
M140 S70
M190 S70
M104 T1 S215
M109 T1 S215"

Where the gcode instruct the printer to heat the Tool 1 (extruder 2) to 215 degrees but the problem is that the printer does not see this instruction and try to start printing with extruder 2 but 0 degrees. When the bed heat is finished just starts to print without raising the hotend temperature. If printing with extruder 1 (tool 0) everything goes well. I believe this is a firmware configuration problem but I couldn´t find anything wrong in configuration.h file...


It could be a firmware issue. If you are running the firmware that came stock on the A10M I would recommend updating it even if it is the same version, it can be found out in GitHub, as the original had a few issues. I’m not sure if the version in GitHub matches what shipped on the printers now.

Also, a few questions. If you don’t need extruder 1, did you disable it in Cura or just leave both enabled? Also, what is the purpose for using just the second extruder instead of just the first one?

Hello, I already flashed the firmware that I found on geeetech github. But I will try another version to make sure...

I already tried disabling the first extruder and leaving enabled but with no success on both ways. In trying to find a way to print with the second extruder because I leave the first extruder loaded with PLA and the second with PETG so it is easier to print with one or other without unloading...
Thanks for your help! Regards

Do me a favor and try this, add T0 (T zero) to the end of the start G-code for the machine, and then slice and try your gcode again.

Tried but with no success, I will follow you advice and switch from the panel or I will keep simplify 3d...

For the time being, I would just use the first extruder when you use Cura, and then switch extruders on the LCD using the mixer.

In addition, you need to configure each extruder independently in Cura so that each has its own settings. Please make sure you have the standby temperatures set appropriately too.

Hi, Thanks for building this profile, only one issue is my cura (3.6 latest version according to cura update) is saying that the profile is corrupt and crashes cura every time I attempt to use it. Any idea what may cause this or how I fix it?


Please check to see that each .json file has content. I had an individual contact me yesterday with a similar issue and one of the extruder profiles was the issue. For some reason when it was downloaded, none of the content came with it.

Thanks that sorted it! The extruder 1 .json was 0kb! downloaded it alone and put it in the file and all is good. Cant wait to get the new printer going when it arrives tomorrow

Further updates to the extruder profiles to include start and end gcode to each extruder. This gcode allows the nozzle to go and park above the prime tower to switch colors making a more clean print in the end.

I am working on fine tuning the machine profile some more for the dual extrusion. If anyone has already downloaded and installed these profiles, I just updated the Extruder_1.json file and you should replace yours with the newest version here.


I have been looking for a profile, for some reason the only print that work are the 2 that came on the card and I have know idea what Geeetech sliced them with or what kind of profile.

Big issue I have with this A10M is getting the first few layers to stick....... I'm not a fan of this Geeetech super plate, to start mine is no wheres near flat and nothing wants to stick even on the flat parts

When I try try print anything they all seem to be heavily under extruded, aside from the 2 files that cam on the sd card.

very frustrating., I have many printers and this is a first for me.

any help would be appreciated

Well, it looks like my previously long winded post hasn't shown up yet, so I will try it again.

The two gcode prints on the card do not contain any useable Cura information. I had quite a few issues getting my A10M going out of the box, and I am still fine tuning the slicer to get a great looking print. However, the best things to do to get it up and running is this:

First and foremost, tighten the tensioning screw on the extruders. It is a small screw inset in the casing just to the side of the lever that is spring loaded where you load filament. This screw applies more tension to the spring to give a tighter grip on the filament. This needs to be tightened counter-clockwise**! It is reverse threaded meaning if you screw it counter-clockwise it will tighten, clockwise will loosen tension.

  1. Calibrate the extruder. My esteps were set to 340. After calibrating it, I needed something more like 434! This will cause all kinds of under extrusion issues and such. I know there are two extruders, but both use the same information from the esteps, so both should be extruding the exact same amount. You only have to do this calibration for one extruder, but I would check both. This is a great reference: https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/

  2. Get an updated version of the firmware and enable manual mesh bed leveling. I have done this on my own and enabled/changed a few items in the firmware and it is so much better! Prints stick easily and look better. If you do update the firmware, don't forget to calibrate the extruder again. If you have updated firmware before through the latest Arduino IDE, than this step will be easy. Just remember to uncomment the following variables: MESH_BED_LEVELING and LCD_BED_LEVELING. I would also change GRID_MAX_POINTS_X from 3 to 5. Find the firmware here - https://github.com/Geeetech3D/Prusa_I3_3Dprinter.git

  3. Careful what you clean the Super Plate with. I was using some Isopropyl Alcohol (91%), and it was leaving a film on the surface. I changed to another brand and it helped, but I will rub a piece of paper over the surface to help get some of the junk off and it lightly scuffs the surface as well. Then wipe down with a clean cloth. I still use the IPA to clean the bed, but using the paper and cloth afterwards.

Good Luck!

After spending 10 min writing a comment for some reason it has been flagged, maybe because I edit it twice ? who knows.

anyways Thanks for the great info.

could you provide me with more details on the firmware update for mesh bed leveling.... I have never done this so some steps would be great, Thank you

Whats happening when I try to print a dual color I sliced in cura with your machine settings and a profile I use for my cr-10S and ender3 pro.
I select what extruder for specific parts, than merge parts, Prime tower is on.

Part should start with extruder 2
it prints skirt with extruder 2 than moves to prime tower, swithes to extruder 1 prints a layer while cooling down to 175 than pauses and heats back up to 200, moves and starts printing part with extruder 1 and continues to print entire part with extruder 1, doesnt go back to purge or attempt to print with extruder 2.

I have tried over and over deleting machings and profiles and starting from scratch, still same results.
The only files the print normal are the 2 that come on the card, This is beyond frustrating.

Please help me out, Thanks

I messaged you to help you privately.

I'm having this issue as well, where the hotend will sit between extruder changes to re-heat the nozzle. I'm thinking I may need to update the firmware soon, but is there a setting in Cura I need to change to resolve this?

That is called the standby temperature. In Cura, search for this setting and make it the same value as your hot end temp. It will no longer pause between color changes. However, if you do need to use filaments at two different temperatures, there will need to be a slight pause to change the temp.

Wow, Thank you for the great information.
yes mine is suffering from major under extrusion, one extruder was loose and the other was ok.
I don't understand why they are shipping the units out like this, when its such a simple fix, a up and comer like Geeetech should be all over it but clearly that's not the case.
The information out there ATM on the A10M is very limited.
your detailed comprehensive response is greatly appreciated.
The Glass (super plate) that came with my printer is a joke, it is not even close to being flat, im sure it would work good if Geeetech could get some flat glass.
As for the mesh bed leveling, why isnt this included in the firmware already, again seems like something that should have been done at the factory.
My printer came with 1.8.1 I don't see anything thing in the options about mesh leveling

These problems alone are enough to sour a newbie on 3D printing, glad I am used to the BS with 3d printers.

Another issue I am facing is, When I load up a dual color file in Cura and everything is set for printing, fire up the print and lone behold it only prints in one color.
On the other hand when I use the mixing template on the printer it works great.

anyone have a base profile I can use for Cura ? more specifically the settings related to dual color/nozzle


I haven't recieved my A10M yet, but it appears to me to use a E3D Titan clone extruder with a 3/1 gear ratio. Going from E3D's guide(Copy and Pasted below) it looks like the esteps should be close to 418.5

Thanks for posting a Starting Slicer profile.

Firmware Calibration
Because Titan uses a known gearing ratio and a consistently machined drive gear, we can offer a fairly accurate steps / mm set-point.

Steps per Unit (Extruder) = Motor Steps Micro-stepping Gear Ratio / (Hobb Diameter Pi)
Standard motor steps / rev = 400 for the new style motor or 200 for the old style motor (Refer to assembly steps if unsure which motor you have).
Standard micro-stepping = 16x
Gear Ratio = 3
Hobb Diameter (Effective) = 7.3
16 3 / (7.3 3.142) = 418.5
400 16 3 / (7.3 * 3.142) = 837
To test your value, mark the filament 120mm from the extruder then extrude 100mm slowly. If you do not measure 20mm after extrusion has finished, you may need to tweak this value.

Thank you for the extra bit of info. I did know that there was a gearing ratio and such, but the fact that Geeetech didn't even come close to getting it right is pathetic. Stock esteps I would get around 79mm. After calibrating and recalculating I now get a perfect 100mm. It just makes you curious if they even tested it before putting the value in the firmware! I am not the only person with this issue either. Many others have reported this as well. Also, why wouldn't they enable bed leveling from the start?! It is so easy and they already enabled the 4 corner leveling, so why not the other? Its just crazy stuff like that you get to look forward to! But it is a solid printer!!

Comments deleted.

I tried to pull slicer settings from those two files as well and there were none that were usable in Cura. What I have created is a machine setting profile that will allow you to have the Geeetech A10M as an option in the Other menu when you attempt to initially setup this printer in Cura. There are some stock settings that are within the machine profile for some basic slicer settings that will aid in getting you started. I do agree that this is a difficult printer to setup, but there are many options to help you out. Here is some of what I have done, and please know it does require a high level of understanding with the printers, use of Marlin commands, and using Arduino to update the firmware.

  1. You need to calibrate the extruder! Use this page as a guide and it is extremely helpful. I had to change my esteps for the extruder from 340 to 430.38; and from what I have read from others with this printer, they have had a similar issue and had to do this.

  2. Update your firmware with an updated version and enable mesh bed leveling. If you have no idea about this one, you are in for a world of knowledge getting this done. I may share my firmware out here at some point...

  3. Manually level the 4 corners, and then come back and perform the mesh bed leveling procedure in the updated firmware.

  4. Cleaning the super plate bed. I was using a high percentage Isopropyl Alcohol and cotton cloth to clean my bed. I think it may have been leaving a residue (weird, I know), so I decided to rub a piece of paper over the bed and then wipe it with a clean cloth. It seems to help, but make sure the build surface is clean and free of finger prints.

  5. Look for Creality Ender 3 Cura printing profiles and use their settings to help fine-tune your Cura print settings. It is basically the same printer with same setup so their slicer settings will work for the A10 and A10M.

  6. Lastly, there is a Geeetech group on Facebook. It is a great resource to ask questions and to get assistance. Do not join a specific model group, just the main Geeetech 3D Printer User Club as it is monitored by company representatives.

This has been slightly frustrating for me, but no where near as bad as my Creality CR-10s5. It has been almost 10 months and it still isn't perfect.

Can I just ask what your nozzle switch retraction settings are for dual extrusion?
Been having lots of problems lately trying to replicate the success of the supplied GCO files that print perfectly and just wish Geetech would be more informative about their slicer settings. I feel like I'm stabbing in the dark every time I print something and it's usually under extruded to a huge degree or a minor amount, or stringy or something. Levelling the bed is a joke as the aluminium extrusion isn't straight, the wheels tend to bind and flatten out and each time the print starts the level seems to have shifted slightly to how I just set it.
And I agree about cleaning with the IPA. It seems to have left permanent marks so I just use water now with a microfibre cloth and this works better. I've released some items for this printer to improve if you are interested such as a tool holder, bowden clip etc.
Oh and I just wanted to ask about e-steps - why not just use the flow rate in Cura? Does this not do the same thing? Mine is currently set to 102% to get fairly good results, I just get a bad layer every now and then (might be where I'm using cheap and old filament).

I'm just getting started with the A10M and the provided models print so beautifully. It's obvious that with the proper slicer settings this thing can produce excellent prints.

I'm now attempting to set CURA up as my slicer and it is insane that there isn't a clear path to take. I have other printers and assumed that I would be able to locate a decent CURA profile for this printer. I'll take the advice above and start looking into calibrating the extruder or maybe I should just try loading the tweaked arifg firmware???? I already have the 3dtouch set-up with mesh leveling by uploading new OEM firmware.

I went down the path of calibrating the extruder as per many YT videos and sites that tell you how it should be (extrude 100mm and measure what came out) and it outputted 79mm each time. According to the calculations, the e-steps should be 430, not 340. However after setting this, I was getting massive over extrusions just on the first layer. I've asked around but no one can tell me why. I dialed the settings back all the way down to 340 (where it was) until it was right again, so don't waste your time on this. I just put the flow rate in Cura up to around 107% which seems to be a happy medium, but it also seems to depend on layer height. Adaptive layers seem to cause problems with extrusion to so I've stopped using that. I wasted a lot of time fiddling with settings when I actually had a blocked nozzle, so make sure this isn't a cause.
It is suspect why Geeetech won't tell you their slicer settings, and BTW, the colour mixing software on the Geeetech forum that you can program into your G-code - My anti virus told me that this is a severe trojan threat which gives power of your computer to the attacker.
This company is very spurious.

OK thanks... I'll be playing with things some more this weekend.