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tom_penn

Bullet Collator Mods

by tom_penn Nov 10, 2018
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Could you post or send me the cad file for the small_spring_adapter. I want to make a .308 specific adapter.

Tom-Penn
Quoting you from below...
"The six walls are for the wheels to lessen the chance of damage from a jammed bullet. I printed everything else with 2 walls at 20%."

6 Wall and What infill % do you recommend for the Wheels?
What do you recommend for the Base itself?

I'm running a 6 walls 50% infill on a wheel now.... Just wondering if I could save a little time.....

I printed the chute adapter and the large spring chute adapter, flat ends down, no support, no brim, no raft, and they printed perfectly! It would be nice to have a bit of a taper in the threads slightly, as to give tension when you lock it, but that’s just being nit picky, it works as is.

My question is what size screws did you use to attach the chute adapter? I could make m3 screws work, but they seem rather big. Maybe m1?

They are the #0 thread forming screws found in the details. They are used on the majority of the components, though M3 will work if you drill the holes to .098

oh cool, thanks!

Need some Help I printed the dorper tube mount that mounts on the bottom of the case feeder the problem that I am having is the 2 peace's that I made will not fir in to one anthoner the part that mounts to the drop tube is too big can someone help me and let me now what I am doing wrong thanks

Any way to get the cad file for your new .45 plate. I'm using a different fixture for the way the plate goes into the collater I think your plate would solve all my short 185 GR JHP bullet problems

What orientation did you print the new ramp in? Just used a ton of supports? Thanks in advance.

I printed it on its flat end with rafts and support under the step

The piece marked Rod_End has a hole in it for the rod retention. Can anyone shed some light on what they used to lock the rod into that piece? A picture maybe?

Thanks in advance!

Rod requires either through or threaded cross holes on both ends

Did you use two different poer supplys? The DAA one for the motor and a separate 12v for the photoswitch?

No it's wired to the daa

Just wanted to add a public comment that you rock thanks for the timely things you have done and for hooking me up with an adapter that works flawlessly!

Ok, got mine about complete. The double adjustment setup is so slick it's sick. Thanks for making it that much better.

Looks good. Did you end up scaling it or changing the infil and walls? Also getting issues with these fitting together.

So, It turns out through alot of testing you need to know your machine and what tolerances it favors. My Ender 3, with CURA and Slic3r, seems to favor a pretty accurate outside diameter, but a very tight inner diameter. All I did was file a few of the parts, and I reprinted the large screw at 98%.. fit perfect. The attachment screw situation I don't really like. Most people have access to m3-m5 screws, so I drilled out and tapped most of the holes. There was no need to design such incredibly small screws and holes.

Very cool contributions. A few questions to make sure I use the proper parts. Is the chute adapter to be able to swap between large and small springs rather than unscrewing from the body? And I see there is a small/large spring adapter and a small/large spring DT adapter What was the difference for the DT ones? And have you used any springs other than the DAA ones?

Yes, the adapters are quick change.
The DT adapters are for the DropTubes. They only work with my droptubes.
I have only used the DAA springs, but the adapters will work with any spring of the same outer and wire diameter.

Thanks! I sent you a message. Had a quick question and couldn't tell from the modeling.

I printed out a few of the smaller parts like the split slider and the adjuster screw, but nothing fits together. I love the adjustment design. Has anyone had this trouble and did you do any scaling to fix it.

What infill did you use?

Cura 3.6, I used a 50% infill, 1.2 wall with .4 nozzle. I looked at the readme and see you specd a " Print with 6 walls at 17% infill, .2 resolution". Do dimension change that much based on infill vs wall? Thanks for such a quick reply.

The six walls are for the wheels to lessen the chance of damage from a jammed bullet. I printed everything else with 2 walls at 20%. There is typically only .004 per side clearance built in around mating components, sometimes slightly more. From my experience infill percentage alone can play a large part in dimensional changes and the function of an assembly, especially when using little clearance. If all else fails then slightly scaling the piece should work fine. Be sure you have a completely non-interference fit on those screws. Torque will cause a layer separation because they are printed in the vertical position. I will add that if you have any sort of print blemishes like banding, blobs or seams, then you will likely need to post process the parts by sanding, filing, etc.

Thank you for the reply. Any chance you could find time to change the threading to something more common? I have tap and die kits, but not for ball screw sizes. That would at least get most of the threads up and going. That part with just half the threads would have to be a hope and pray.

Probably not anytime soon. Those threads actually have 100 degree profile as opposed to 60 so that they would print accurately and without a lot of trial and error prints to adjust the pitch. 60 degree threads have the nasty tendency to roll the root and crest during printing significantly increasing the pitch. A recent 7/8-14 thread I modeled had to have the pitch blown out .02 per side to produce a funtional thread. In contrast, the 100 degree thread mated perfectly with the first piece printed with no pitch changes or compensation. Did you try reprinting the screw and nut at 20% and 2 walls?

It's pretty clear you have a full handle on the engineering part of this. I'll be working on my settings and really get to know my printer better. If you look at some of the Clearence videos on youtube and using the encased spinning testers.. alot of printers have a tough time with anything less than .2mm clearance.

And I knew that that would be the case, that some people would probably have issues with the fitment due to various print settings, calibrations, and filament sizes. But it was easier for me to build the clearance in that I knew I could print at and that would give the perfect fit I desired, than build in extra and have to worry about scaling it up later to tighten things back up.

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Hi, great job on the mods. I printed the large spring adaptor and was unable to screw my DAA large spring into it as it was too small. I printed another adaptor by JimboRR and it worked perfectly. Is there any way to modify the threading on your large spring adaptor?

blewis3,
The adapter is meant to be tight so that spring can not back out. To install the spring you need to bend the tip of the spring inward 90 degrees then use needle nose pliers to screw it in. You would then snip the bend off with diagonal pliers

Tom,

Thanks for the reply. When I was trying to insert the large DAA spring, a portion of it expanded in diameter, so I printed a part by JimboRR and it screwed in perfectly and I could not pull it out. When you said it was tight so the spring could not back out, did you mean if it was not, the spring would back out due to the vibration when the bullet feeder was operating or, that it could be pulled out?

The design intent was to never have to worry about the springs reversing out of either adapter, ever, short of forcing it out by uncrewing it by hand. The second intent would be the torsion applied from the spring can now hold both adapters in the locked position regardless of the final fit that will vary from printer to printer.

Thanks for the reply. When I tried to screw the large spring in it was hard to do by hand and I did not know if my printer may have misprinted the threads. Great design btw. Had to file the locking lugs a little bit to get the pieces to fit but it works great now.

Out of curiosity, what infill percentage did you use?

Used 80% infill, had thick walls so not much difference in print time. BTW, I would like to use your mounting solution but have a hornady lnl ap vs a dillon, Is there anyway you can modify so it will mount on 1" square tubing? I would be happy to modify the file for you and send it back to you so you can repost if you do not have the time. I use fusion 360.

I actually did it in mastercam, so there wont be any parametric data. If you want the step, shoot me your email.

Id love to get the steps of he drop chute adapters... anyone have a step of the main bowl/base unit? I wanted to design in threaded brass inserts to hold the drop tube adapters ...

I think I will try to model it instead of importing the step file.

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Great Upgrades! Thanks a lot for your work!

Thanks! I'm happy to contribute to this great project.

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