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Ender 3 Enclosure (IKEA Lack Table)

by YoramSwiers Nov 4, 2018
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Hello, just finished building the top part of the enclosure. Everything fits perfectly, except the door. Somehow the door does not fit and the hinges don't match up to the corners. Measured the plexy and it's exactly the measurements stated 22.3x48.0cm

No idea what I'm doing wrong with the doors...

Can somebody give explanation about the 2 buttons on the top ? do you have a schema ?
thanks. a other belgian guy :-)

A note to those of us who are stuck using Imperial measurements: when you get your Acrylic sheets, even if you ask for 1/8" thick, they may just provide you with 0.118" thick (2.9972 mm), so the 3mm files should work well.

Hi, I've printed all of the parts but I don't understand how the the top of the legs where they screw into the table work
Can someone please help or show how they are attached.

I'm in the process of building this and basically have the same question. The bottom of the legs is pretty easy; screw a stack corner insert onto the top of the lower table, then the door lower corners and back lower corners screw onto the bottom of the legs, and then slide down over the stack corner inserts. For the top though... It looks like the upper corners screw directly onto the underside of the table top, and you screw the stack corner insert into the top of the leg. I'm not sure that I like that idea... However, if you skip the upper corners, and just print another set of 4 lower corners, you can turn them upside down. Then, the stack corner insert screws into the underside of the table; the corners screw into the top of the legs, and then the legs slide onto the inserts. Any reason to NOT do it that way?

What are the dimensions for the ply/plexiglass for the sides and door?


I would like to change this build to accept 4mm windows. What is the best program to do that? I have tried Meshmixer and Fusion 360 but they seem complicated a bit and Meshmixer is more for organic modeling and not machine design.

How many of ich parts i need ?

Thanks !

Comments deleted.

How tight are the tolerances? I was interested in buying this : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MXXLW6W/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A2TWAUY2M6BZDZ&psc=1 but its 440 instead of 448, and 223 instead of 220. Should this still fit just as well? is there something is hould change instead?

Where is the total list of materials including the tables?

I might be stupid, but when do I have to use the imperial files? I live in Denmark if that matters?

Inches, Feet, Miles, etc...

Currently printing parts for this but it seems great, does this help to print with ABS? I have about 5 kilograms of it that I can't use very well right now.

Used piano hinges for the doors and it looks nice and definitely functions better than the plastic hinges that constantly pop out

The taller corners to make the tables taller are helpful but overall pretty crap design. The design for the doors is pretty flimsy, gonna just use piano hinges instead.

So, just a quick question. How do you mount the feet to the table? Any help would be appreciated. :)

Screw the small stack corner inserts onto the table and the larger corners slot into them.

But as designed, that only works for the lower corners... For the upper corners, it appears that you screw the corner directly to the underside of the table top, and screw the stack corner insert on to the top of the legs. However, I think that instead I am going to skip the upper corners completely, and just print out a second set of lower corners. Flipping them upside-down would allow you to screw the stack corner inserts onto the underside of the table top, screw the corners onto the legs, then slide the two together...

I would like to point out a small issue. Top_Corner_Door_Left.stl and Top_Corner_Door_Right.stl appear to have a hole in the wrong place. It seems to me that the larger, vertical screw hole, the one that attaches each corner piece to the underside of the tabletop, should be located 27 mm in from the outer edges (like it is in Top_Corner_Left_Right.stl), not 25 mm in. The table top's existing holes are 27 mm from the edges.

I considered adjusting and re-printing those pieces, but decided it was easier to plug the existing holes in the tabletop and redrill the holes to match the printed corners.

I just finished doing this - but I noticed a few issues in the perspex cutting for the doors.

1) You need to cut out the middle of the hinge to let the perspex fit (a full 480mm does not allow for the 'base' of the hinge').
2) The 5mm cutout for the hinge is too small. I believe this should be ~7mm to bring it flush against the lack table leg. At 5mm, the doors hit in the middle and don't close.

Other than those, it seems fine.

hello i dont have a ikea where i live what other tables can i use to make this ?
thank you

Does anyone know the MDF measures? Same as the photo?

Are you using double sided tape, epoxy or something else to fix the magnets to the printed lock parts?

Are you using the pre-drilled holes on the table and legs to screw into? If so, a 5mm screw is too small, right? The supplied screws for the table are 7mm thick.

Did you figure this out? I'm still printing parts, but how the top corners are mounted to the underside of the table puzzles me.

Should the corner inserts be mounted on top of the legs for better stability in the top corner part before it's secured with the two screws in the side?

Could really use an exploded view of all the parts that needs to go together :)

Yes, I did. it will be a lot clearer to you when you have all the parts printed. Basically the supplied screws for the table is only used to screw the legs to the table, when screwing the printed parts to the legs or table you will use the holes in the print.
Also, I would recomend to not use this hinge system as I have had loads of problems with the hinges falling off. Use this instead: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1831572

Lack Enclosure Hinge
by jartza

Hm, but the holes in the bottom of the table has center in 27mm from the edge - the same as the upper part of the corners. Therefore, the hole in the table and the hole in the printed part will align - but as you point out, the 5mm screw isn't enough for the hole in the table...

Could of cause fill the hole with glue and just get on with it :D

I do belive i used wall plugs for those holes. You can fill the big holes with hot glue and then drive the screw inn, but it's a bit more unpredicable. I think i did that first and then switched to wall plugs :P

Hehe, okay, then it makes more sense, thanks! :D

Thank you for sharing your model
i printed all of the parts but from some reason the door hinge doesn't really fits to the door corner when i'm trying to jiggled with the door hinge it won't fit and pop out. is there something that i missing?


Thanks for sharing your model ! I printed some parts, fits in perfectly !

I have an issue with the glas thickness. All the wares around my house have only 2.5mm.
Is it possible that I can modify those models files easily to fit on this value ?

Can anyone provide guidance on how to secure the doors to the hinges? Mine don't stay in securely and fall out when opening. I was leaning towards glueing or double sided foam tape to keep them in.
I'll post my make once completed, along with the USA measurements I found to work.

BTW: The "Imperial" Door hinges are the old style that have no lower support and the posts break off. Just noticed this after 10 hrs of printing them. Imperial hinges are also the old style as well.

Have you found updated versions? Im currently printing my parts and fearful I am going to face the same issues using imperial plexiglass

In the USA I'm finding all sheets are 0.08 Inches in thickness. Would this be imperial or standard for holders/hinges. They look flat. Such as these: https://www.lowes.com/pd/DURAPLEX-18-in-x-24-in-Clear-Acrylic-Sheet/3143519

I printed the Imperial hinge. Took it to Home Depot and it slid on tightly to the .118" plexi. See attached image (Orange is the printed hinge)

Would it be possible to add the item quantity needed for each printed part, in the project details? Such as 4 x Stack_Corner.stl , etc?
Thank you, still printing parts and will post my make once it's completed.

i used 3 tables, my parts included......
1 x cable guide
4 x door hinge
1 x door lever left
1 x door lever right
1 x door lock table
1 x lower corner door left
1 x lower corner door right
2 x lower corner right/left
5 x power supply guard (printed extras for support)
4 x stack corner
12 x stack corner insert
1 x top corner door left
1 x top corner door right
2 x top corner left/right
2 x top filament guide

hey bishop007, thanks for posting this list. Im starting to print all this material out but am trying to make this a 4 table enclosure. what additional parts do i need to print? I see each table will use stack corner inserts, where exactly are the regular stack corners used

Comments deleted.

How many screws and what sizes did you use?

The details said "12x M5x40mm & 18x M4x20mm wood screws" but that doesn't seem to be enough for a 3 table stack, or am I missing something?

What did you use the 4 stack corers for? Are they necessary to the build, or are they to go under the main part of the enclosure?

How are you using 2 top filament guides and a cable guide? I'm only seeing how you could use one of those... After printing out all 3 :'(

The cable guide goes all the way through the "lower" table from the top of the surface, between the printer "rear legs"
As for the filament guides, one only covers half the height of the surface of the table, so 2 are required, passing one from the upside, and the second from downside, creating a sort of "tunnel" using the two.

How this is somehow clear, as english is not my main language :)

great thanks. I have not gotten to putting this together yet (3 more prints to go). That will help a lot... As far as your English goes if you hadn't told me it wasn't your main language I wouldn't have known. :D

Comments deleted.


I am interested in remixing the parts according to my needs but i couldn't edit the .stl file in solidworks. Will it be possible for me to request the cad drawings for the parts?

This creation is brilliant by the way, kudos to you! Thanks!

Hi there :-)
Awesome work ! Thanks for your files.

However, I have a question. I just bought 2 Ikea Lack (plan to buy a third one 'cause it will be very low with only 2...).

With 3 Lack table do you have any jiggle issue ?

I made my lack enclosure with 3 tables (same reason, since 2 was too short), and although there is a slight wiggle it is no more than any other piece of tall furniture. I've considered designing/printing out mounts to attach it to my wall for maximum support, but it works perfectly fine without it

Why are the insets (The hole in the center of the face that touches the leg) backwards on the Lowers? Shouldn't it be like the uppers where you can put a screw into the tabletop? Why do I need a third screw to hold the leg? And if I do that how do I attach the top table to the bottom table?

What switches and LEDs did you use?

Im little confused.the stack insert is the part mounted on the tables, the lower corner parts are the one that are mounted on the feet. and the lower corner slide over the insert, am I right?
If I am correct, where are the corner that doesn't have the "holder" part for the acrylic sheets?

Don't know how this happened but I seem to have deleted the file, added it again now ;)

how many inserts do I need to print?

Love the lighted buttons, but all you have is the button enclosure. How is everything else set up? Can you post links to the parts you used and any additional files for parts that need to be printed?

Your project is really very good. I'm trying to adapt it, because here in South America we do not have IKEA. I bought a very similar table, but its dimensions are 50x50x42. The feet / support has 45mm instead of 55mm. Would it be difficult for you to edit these measures for me? I would be very grateful. I appreciate your work again. Thank you.

Hi, I like the design, looks great. Did you have to get another cable to connect power supply to the printer due to moving it away from the frame? if you did, did you make it yourself or buy one online? If not how did you manage it?


No you can possition the powersupply so that it fits with the original cable.

Those buttons look hot, you made a good project better, I guess I won't be done anytime soon but it's gonna be well worth it.

How do you install the door handle? You glue it on?

I used double sided tape ;)

I hot-glued mine and it works fine. My issues is the hinges keep breaking.

22/01/2019 - All your prayers have been answered, edited the hinge system. Now you can normally pop the doors in and out without trashing the corners. ;) Will be tested soon ( ran out of filament.). Also added some leds and buttons to power on the printer. If needed I will upload an electric scheme (it's really straighforward though, normally you should be able to install some led's without help ;) )

Thank you, can't wait for the upgrade. At a stand still until I print some stronger hinges.

After printing the mounts for the door hinges the sprocket breaks either when removing the support or during installation. I've tried increasing the infill to 75% to shore it up (although it takes almost a day to print) but that doesn't help. I'm printing with PLA, Nozzle temp 205 and Bed temp 60.
Any suggestions or help is appreciated. Thank you.

P.S. see attached file to fully understand issue.

22/01/2019 - All your prayers have been answered, edited the hinge system. Now you can normally pop the doors in and out without trashing the corners. ;) Will be tested soon ( ran out of filament.). Also added some leds and buttons to power on the printer. If needed I will upload an electric scheme (it's really straighforward though, normally you should be able to install some led's without help ;) )

Comments deleted.

Thats a slick looking spool holder with the bearings. Where did you get that?

Lookup the TUSH (The Ultimate Spool Holder). There is the original which needs work but there are other remixes that are really nice. Just pick and print. I just printed TUSH2 which works really nicely. They all use 608 bearings.

Got it a few years back from Thingiverse, can upload a lookalike design, but I am not the inventor off this one ;)

So if i read correctly, the top part can be removed, the top has a square insert that fit onto the rest of the assembly but you can also remove the whole top?

I am not sure I understand the question, but you can thake the 3 table appart if needed.

Is anyone else having issues with the imperial hinges not fitting onto the imperial corners?

I'm having the same issue. Tolerance is rough. I just broke the corner piece... I tried scaling a hinge to 103% and it would fit, but then it's too tall. Not sure how to proceed.

I put the hinge in a vise, and slowly drilled it out until I got a nice fit.

I ended up sanding the crap out of the inside of the hinge and the dowel on the corner very carefully and it works. However, it was A LOT of work.

I'll give that a shot. Everything else come out well? Post a make with pics!!

Comments deleted.

I would like to add the squashball damper feet to my Ender 3 while using this enclosure. I estimate I need 2 inches in addition to the printers normal height. If anyone has built this enclosure can you let me know if this is doable or will I have to use other feet dampers. Please note the height of the squashball dampers is 1 3/4 inches or 44.45mm.

nevermind I just decided to use the dampers in the picture.

pardon quel et le le profil que vous avait mis dans cura pour l impression des pieces car j ai que des raté

bonjour, quelle est le profil que vous avait mis sur cura pour l impression des pieces car avec vos fichier j ai que des ratés.
aurié vous une solution merci.

Is it normal that it is very unstable? I haven't installed my plexi glass, but will the plexiglass make it more stable?

mine was very unstable as well. i just did two layers of masking tape around the inserts to make it a nice, tight fit. Very solid now.

Hi Yoram!

I'm nearly done printing all of the parts and have started some of the assembly. I'm curious though, how is the plexiglass secured? In the Prusa design, the hinges are enclosed at the bottom to secure it. The hinges in this design are open, so it seems like the plexiglass will slide right out?

I have the same question, i may modify the hinges at least to have a bottom to them to hold the glass in.

Yes it's meant to be secured with superglue or epoxy or something like that, so you can keep a nice thight finish ;)

Here is the modified imperial hinge, it has a added 2mm bottom to help hold it in. I worry about super glue or something since what if a hinge breaks, you need to replace the plexi and everything. I also widened the hole by 0.2mm and shortend it by 0.2mm it seems to be a perfect fit now height wise and give a good swing with not being loose.

Did you use a different sized plexi glass or is it the same?

it requires the same plexi, just needs a notch in the corner.

I had the same concerns, thank you for the STL and saving me some work!!

Hey Yoram.

I printed everything but how do I screw it together ..
I know to use the corner inserts .. But the holes in the table are to big for the 5x40 wood screws to go in .. since the holes are 6mm

I filled the hole in with a hot glue gun. Screw is steady in it, no wobble.

I've used a Fisher expansion plug.

Can you tell me how to install the Stack_Corner_insert pieces? Or can you send me a picture of the install? I am putting mine together tonight or tomorrow and would love the help. Thanks.

Here hope you can see how it's mounted, you just have to measure or guess to place them :), it's a little hustle, but the result is a nice fit!


First of all thanks for sharing this great model.
I have print now a few parts of the Corner_Door parts.
Do you have a better picture how to install this parts or a small tutorial.
On the pictures i dont see it right.

Thanks of all and i wish everybody a happy chrismass

Don't really understand, do you have trouble assemblying the printed parts or with screwing the parts into the tables?
If you take some pictures it might be easier to help?

Yoram Swiers

Does every single file in this list need to be printed? If so, are there files that need printed more then once? Some of these files look similar with but with different names. Sorry if I sound dumb lol :D

What is the difference between the regular files and the files with the name "Imperial" appended?

"-11/11/2018 - added extra imperial files so people from the US can use 3.175mm plexiglass"

If you live in the US order your plexiglass 0.125 inches thick (3.175mm) and just print the imperial files the other files with the same name without imperial are 3mm thick.

Thanks, Yoram Swiers for making this build, I am in the middle of printing the parts. I will post pictures when it's completed.

Does the LACK table enclosure accommodate the y axis movement well? I am worried about the bed hitting the doors in the front or the bed cable hitting the back.

Normally it shouldn't touch in the front nor the back, at least with a standard printer. Let's say mine doesn't :).
There is not much extra room though, so it is quite tight.
Yoram Swiers

Does it fit into 4mm glass?

Can you share it as 4mm?

Why would you want to build it with 4mm, 3mm more than thick enough.
Yoram Swiers

material in my hand 4mm :/

what size plexiglass should use on sides/back?

You'll need, 3 times 448x480mm and 2 times 223x480mm, all 3mm thick.
Yoram Swiers

Nice Job! Do you have a list of what exactly needs to be printed and how many of each part? I just got my printer and want to make this and I am trying to figure it all out. LOL Any help is greatly appreciated!

You need at least every file once, when you have them it's easy to figure out, what pieces you need an extra one off.
Yoram Swiers

so what height table is this, as here in australia a lack table is length 55, width - 55, height 45

The table heigth is the same in every country I suspect. Although in total this enclosure can fit an Ender 3 with the vibration dampeners included.
Yoram Swiers

How much room do you have front to back in the enclosure? Or does it just fit the lack enclosure

Front to back is more or less the same as the lack enclosure.

The inserts are used to mount the leg bottoms of the upper table to the table below without actually screwing it in right? So you can take the top table off? If so, why is there a place for the inserts on the top corner leg mounts? Also, I live in Belgium as well and will probably buy the plexiglass from the same shop, did you cut the hinge cutouts yourself, or were you able to order it custom cut like that?

No I had to cut them out my self using a Dremel tool. It is indeed made so u can take the top part off, as for the square holes in the top corners, I made them just to save material :)

Thanks a lot! I love the looks of this particular edition of the prusa enclosure. It looks sturdy and well made!

Thanks, hope you'll have a nice enclosure!

Yoram Swiers

I just want to confirm -- what is the sheet size this is setup for (so I know what size lexan to buy)? also, I was wondering if you have any future plans to alter the sides so that they can also be swung open?.. opening from say front to back? not that I anticipate having to troubleshoot my ender 3.. but.. it would be nice if needed so that I didn't have to drag it all the way out of the enclosure.


This was one of the first things I though about after installing my ender in the enclosure... That troubleshooting would be quite difficult. Now if you want you can just print more pieces for doors so you can istall like 2 sets of doors, but doing so the overall contruction would lack some stability I guess. As for the lexan the sizes are discribed in the "thing details". If there are any questions feel free to messega me. I am always open for improvement.

Yoram Swiers

Does it use same size plexiglass as original prusa design??

No it does not use the same sizes off plexiglass because this one is 3cm higher than the original one! I just realised, I didn't upload the building instructions yet. Will be up there very soon.

Yoram Swiers

I look forward to seeing the instructions; as this looks like a much better engineered enclosure than the other ones I've seen. Great job! BTW, do you know approximately how many grams of filament was needed for all of the parts?

Thank you, this means a lot to me! This is my first published design so I am still figuring everthing out (might take a while).
As far as the fillament cost goes, I am guessing it was somewhere around 750g of plain old PLA.

Yoram Swiers

Yoram, did you drill guide holes for the wood screws, or did you just screw them in to the wood? It seems like guide holes would make sense, but I know the wood in the Lack tables is fairly porous. Also, here in the US, we are still stuck on the old imperial measurement system. That being said, is there any tolerance for a little bit larger, thicker sheets (instead of 3mm thick, I can do 1/8" (or 3.175mm) thick)? BTW, I've started printing the parts for this ;-)

No I just screwed them into the wood, make sure everthing is aligned properly, then use the holes in the printed parts for the screws. I did use just a hand screwdriver. For the tolerances it's set to hold a 3mm sheet, a 3.175 sheet may stretch the prints to much and might ruin them, don't know for sure though. What you can do is sand the parts untill it fits nicely or i can upload an American version. Let me know ;)

Yoram Swiers

Well I'll have to figure something out on the plexiglass/Lexan/etc... I'll go to my local hardware store today and see if there is something I can substitute. On another note: I printed the Corner Stacks and Inserts, and there is an issue. It looks like the tolerances are too close, so the insert won't fit in the stack. I fixed this by decreasing the dimensions on the insert by .5mm. I attached my changes, and this fits with zero wiggle and is quite tight.

If you want to create two sets of files: one for metric and one for imperial, that would not only be great for me, but would also be a very well thought out design for makers in any part of the world. Again, thank you for creating this, and I know you mentioned this is your first design. I think you're doing a great job, and look forward to seeing future designs from you.


Thank you Dan,

As for the tolerances on the inserts, they are supposed to be 29.7x29.7mm which, for me, fitted perfect into the 30x30mm holes off the lower blocks. It is possible I made a misstake because I didn't plan on releasing the files so I had to make a few changes and reorderd and named them, maybe i made an error somewhere wich I would really like to resolve asap, so other people don't waste filament, due to my mistakes :).
If you'd like you can send me a private message so we can fix this.

Also I will make a second set of files for the emperial standards.

Yoram Swiers

Did you write up the build instructions yet? I’m still struggling a bit and would rather not have to make a trip back to ikea if I screw up these tables.