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Please correct me if i'm wrong. (my duct is getting warped for 3 times now)
I'm using the stock fans.
The stock fan should be blowing air onto the hot end right? (unlike the stock cooling where the fan is blowing away from the hot end)
So - the sticker of the fan should not be visible? (it's pointing towards the hot end)
Could this be fixed? I have printed the part twice now, the oem fan duct, for single fan and this area of the print ends up looking bad, with a small hole in that area, it is mostly cosmetic but results in a bad appearance and requires trimming around the mess to get the fan to fit in next to the hole snug. I saw your other comments, regarding the seam for the one duct as well, so I thought maybe id mention this and see if you could fix it while you where taking a look. I know zero about 3d modeling so maybe this one just cant be fixed, I dunno.
I have some PETG coming to print the duct again, because all 3 times I have printed, they have warped and they are as low as they will go from the hot end. even with the silicone sock. Hopefully this PETG will help
I will add this to my to-do backlog. As most users are switching to 5015 fans, that has been where my focus is. I am out of the country until the end of May, so I can look into this in June.
i put the fan shroud but it start making a lot of noise. is that right?
How tight are the screws? The fan shroud (for the heat sync fan) is not my design. I provide a link to it for convenience. If you tighten them too much then the fan can be noisy. Also the quality of the fan makes a difference. The OEM fan is very cheap. I recommend that you get sealed bearing fans.
I have printed and mounted this upgrade now, I went for the dual 5015 and Bltouch. There must be improvements when it comes to construction though because some parts are very weak, mine broke so I must now print another one.
Note: I printed mine in petg and 100% infill, supports everywhere, still its very weak.
The two parts that the dual 5015 fans is screwed into is so weak that they break only touching it.
If you are supercareful maybe it will not break, but mounting this is not plug and play so it stresses the plastic a little.
I will post a jpeg where I have marked the parts that needs to be changed/modifyed.
As for the cooling: With dual fans at 30% speed, its supergood and the noise is reduced very much !
Thank You !
I am sorry but you obviously have not read the instructions that are provided in the summary documentation. To get the strength needed (so you won't have the issue you are describing) you MUST print the parts in the orientation the directions say. In this case the parts cooling duct must be printed with the front face of the cooling duct down flat on the build plate. This will give the strength to the wings that hold the 5015 fans. The Hero Me Gen2 Base must be printed with the back of the base (that which sits flush with the X gantry) must be down on the build plate. This will give both. the mount points and the wire channel tower the strength needed. Nothing will 'snap' or break between your fingers when printed as instructed. Print all parts with supports but ONLY from the Build Plate.
I printed mine in petg 30% infill with with a wall count of 2. It's very sturdy. What filament are you using?
Wall Count is set to 2, Petg from surreal. Its a construction miss in my opinion.
No, just printed in the wrong orientation, see my reply to your first message.
Increase your wall or shell count. I built it with 3 walls and it's very strong in pla
my english isnt the best, so i need your help.
I have a stock Ender 3 with no mods. I want to print this duct, but which files do i need? I want to print it in PLA. I have no BLTouch or EZABL or something else, just a stock Ender 3 Printer, with stock Fans.
Could you please help me?
No problem, for a fully stock Ender-3 (and no ABL) you will want to print the following STL files:
This will reuse your existing OEM fans with the Hero Me Gen2. Be sure to put a silicone sock on the hot-end for use with PLA parts for the cooling system.
How do I adjust the offsets on a stock ender 5? Do I have to flash a bootloader first?
I do not know the firmware setup for an Ender 5, sorry. That info is likely on Facebook and or YouTube.
Does this work printed in PLA?
My Ender 3 can't print PETG
Yes, if you use a silicone sock to insulate the hot-end. Print the parts in PLA, then assemble, and then print again in PETG. Your Ender 3 is fully capable of printing PETG and even ABS. There are many YouTube videos on how to setup your Ender 3 for PETG. It is mostly in the slicer settings.
May I ask, are we supposed to use the long, or short small screws for the small part cooling fan on the right side for oem hot end, stock fans for ender 3 pro?
I tried the long, but could not get it to reach the hole on the right, that holds the nozzles so the right side sags a little now.....the short screw reached on the left side. I tried moving it up and down to find the right spot but never could....I imagine its meant to reach all the way through to one of the three holes correct?
If you are reusing all your OEM fans and screws and you have one of the original Hero Me Gen2 bases: You would use 2 of the long thin (M2) screws to hold the cooling duct to the Hero Me base. You use the other two long thin screws to hold the OEM 4010 fan to the cooling duct. You use the M3 screws to hold the fan to the base that cools the heat sync. If you are using one of the newer Hero Me Gen2 bases, the holes on the sides for mounting the cooling ducts are now sized for M3 screws. I am standardizing everything around M3 screws going forward. The holes in the Hero Me base (of either size) are meant to be self tapping, no nuts are needed. Depending on how your Base print turned out, you may need to use an Xacto knife to widen the oval hole in the cooling duct pegs to allow the M3 screws to fit through.
My parts cooling fan has 2 short and 2 long screws. The small black skinny ones. The design made it appear the same screw that holds in the parts cooling fan, holds the nozzle to the right side as well. Your saying a second screw goes in behind that screw but slightly above it?
The front, larger cooler fan worked with no issue. Not sure which screw size those are though but they are silver, and have a rounded head.
Big thank you for your design! Quick question, I've already printed kelokera's fan duct using stock fan but I'm planning to use yours with 5015 x2, do I have to print again base and lock from yours or is it compatible with kelokera's one? Thank you.
Thanks for choosing the Hero Me (& Gen2)! The mount points for the cooling ducts are compatible across all Hero Me remixes. But... My Gen2 Base has several hundred tweaks and improvements. Not the least of which is the much larger wire channel to prevent the 5015 fan from being pushed out at an angle. All the improvements are detailed in the summary.
Thank you very much for your prompt response, I'll print all then, thanks.
Im currently printing a Hero Me for my Ender 3. I love the design. Thank you for making it.
However i noticed when i was printing the "Hero_Me_OEM_4010_Duct_Gen2g" i got a weird Line in one of the Ducts. It seems as if i have an error in my stl file maybe?
I added a screenshot of my Cura-preview where it shows the line on the left duct.
Probably its down to my inexperience and i might just have a setting or two wrong - in that case please let me know :)
This will print fine. I am working on a fix, but this is only to quell the question like yours. No disrespect. I get asked this all the time. If you scan down through the comments, you’ll find this over and over. Thanks for choosing the Hero Me Gen2.
A big thank you for the design, it's fantastic, the best mod you can add to an ender 3.
Thanks for choosing the Hero Me Gen2!
Please forgive my ignorance in advance. I have a stock Ender 3, and I want to print out the Hero Me Gen2 with preparations for a BL Touch and 5015 fans. I found an Amazon link for a 2 pack of 5015 fans (24v). It's probably possible to re-use the existing fan for the 3rd one (the one that's tilted at an angle), but is it preferred to get better one?
Do I have the parts list I would need correct?
Thank you for making this!
(edit: the underscores changed some formatting, but I hope the filenames that I'm asking about are still legible)
hey I'm pretty new at this too and have questions, but 2 things I do know... and u might want to check on..
Greetings mediaman! i am a new ender 3 user. So far my prints have been a test puppy, a fan cover, and printing now is a raspberry pi gameboy case. I am stock except for an upgrade metal extruder kit. (noob).
This looks like the gold standard for ender tip cooling and touch sensor (which I hope to do soon)
and now for my biggest noob question.. I guess direct drive ( mounting the extruder above the hot end ?) is like a huge upgrade for anti stringing which I am seeing in my models.
is this mod able to be compatible with that? is there a direct drive kit that u know of that you use that works best with your hero mod ? I have heard there are some that don't quite fit (Canada Barbosa)
Please let me know! I'm excited to print prettier haha
Thanks for choosing the Hero Me Gen2! Upgrading to a Direct Drive is a big upgrade (I have not done it yet myself). There is a version of the Hero Me Gen2 Base that is compatible with a Direct Drive kit. It is called the DD Hero Me Base Gen2.stl. It work's with the Barasaba Innovations DD kit on eBay. More info can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3359578 (note that my version of the DD Hero Me base is current with all my other mods, his is based on an older version of the Hero Me base). There are several others that are listed in the Hero Me Collection here: https://www.thingiverse.com/mediaman/collections/hero-me-cooling-systems. I would suggest that the only reason to go to a direct drive system is if you need to print flexible filaments. Anti-stringing can be solved in your slicer settings, there is no reason to go DD to solve stringiness.
For Hero Me Base Gen2d.stl, do I need different screws if I am using a 40 mm Noctua fan, or can I use the stock ones?
The stock screws should work if your heat sync fan is 10mm or less.
Hey has anyone experience one side shifting up? For some reason I noticed today that the right side duct pipe seemed to have warped upward.. is there a way to shift it back down?
Are you using a silicone sock on your hot-end. This is required if you have printed your cooling duct in PLA (even for some PETG, depending on the size of your hot-end and positioning of the cooling ducts). Have you tightened the screws that hold the cooling ducts well to the base, it is possible from the vibration of the hot-end moving around (especially with lots of tiny movements) to have the cooling duct slip it the screws are not tight enough. If that is not it, then it is likely the cooling ducts have warped from the heat of the hot-end. I only run the bed temp to 60c and the hot-end to 230c (with PLA or PETG printed cooling ducts). If you are using higher temps, this could be the cause. I have never tested the Hero Me with ABS (that usually needs 90-100c bed and 250c nozzle temps), in those scenarios, the Hero Me ducts should be printed in ABS.
Best position of the cooling duct is when the nozzle is touching the build plate, the bottom of the cooling duct should be between .1mm and .2mm above the build plate (varies due to the type and height of the nozzle you are using). I set mine to .12mm off the build plate.
There's one thing I noticed and that's the right fan duct (where the fan connects into) seems to be closer to the hotend than the left side (i'm using the single fan OEM shroud).
--Update. 5/19/2019 4:42 PM--
Ok, so I've confirmed my theory, the right fan duct side where the fan slides into is absolutely way too close to the nozzle. Just started a print and I'm already seeing that the duct is starting to soften up and warp on that side, however on the other side it's still firm and not warped. I've compared this to the bullseye (which was made with PLA) and it is spaced out evenly; hence no warping issues whatsoever. I really like this fan duct as compared to the bullseye because of its modularity, but I can't keep reprinting the same thing over and over again because not only it takes 4 hrs each time to get it printed, but it also ends up becoming a massive waste of filament. I would highly suggest an update to move the right fan duct at least 4 more mm to get it centered with the nozzle. I shouldn't have to constantly keep reprinting the duct out (not should I have to switch fans when my stock one works just fine). I don't mean to sound rude, but I really can't keep on wasting time and money trying to reprint the part and it's quite annoying to be frank.
Yes, I have a heat sock on the hotend and my temps are normally 235C and 75C, and no higher than those. .I haven't experienced this issue with the Petsfang Bullseye fan ahroud and that was printed in PLA. Everything is also tightened up to their fullest and I have the shroud about 2mm away from the bed
Question.. does that LED mount fit with the OEM fan (Ender 3) single fan duct? Also, can it be used to fit an LED strip?
No, it was made for a request, it only directly fits the Hero Me Single 5015 Duct. Yes it should work with any LED strip that is that length or less.
Awh, could you by chance a way make a lightbar that doesn't directly shine down on the bed (since I have glass) that goes around the hotend for the OEM version? I've been having the hardest time finding a bar that creates an 'ambient' glow on the bed where it doesn't get completely darkened by the hotend nor cause this terrible glare in my cameras. I would really appreciate it :D
I would have to add it to my backlog list of requests. I don't know when I could get something done. I believe that there are a couple remix mods that may already do what you want. Have a look here: https://www.thingiverse.com/mediaman/collections/hero-me-cooling-systems
I'm sorry if this has been asked, but i couldn't find a guide for it: On an Ender 5, which prints do i need to make to use a BLtouch a dual 5015?
I updated my version of the Hero Me base for the Ender 5. Improved the fit for the left side belt mount slot. Made it easier to slide the base over the hot-end.
Thank you so much for your hard work and responsiveness:-) You comment really helps me to sort out exactly what I need.
This is great work, thank you! I also really like your Gen 6 Plus. I'm running it on my CR-10 S5.
I've just received the Direct Drive kit for the Ender 5 (https://www.fargo3dprinting.com/products/ender-5-direct-drive-upgrade-kit/) and of course now there is a need for an updated Hero Me Base for that. I'm trying to get the drawing for the new carriage in order to see where things need to be adjusted. Matthew says he shifted the M3 mounting holes 1.5mm to the right to clear the belt slot.
There may be one that already works. There are several DD mods for the Here Me in this collection: https://www.thingiverse.com/mediaman/collections/hero-me-cooling-systems
For the base, you will want the STL from the following remix:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3485675
then print these files from this design:
Hero Me Dual 5015 duct Gen2g.stl
BLTouch Wing dual fan Gen2a.stl
BLTouch adj mount dual fan Gen2a.stl
Hello Which files would I need to do twin 5015 fans on an Ender 3 Pro? Im not using any auto bed leveling. Thanks
Three files. The Hero Me base, the Hero Me dual 5015 cooling duct, and the Base Lock.
Do you find that this moves the ABL sensor too far to the left? I like it, but that of course is a concern. I am using the CR-10S pro right now with all stock parts for the hotend. My go microswiss later but am looking for ways to upgrade the fans.
Unless you have a severely wavy bed, the offset will not be a problem. If you have a a CR-10S Pro, then you will want to use this version of the Hero Me Gen2: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3433619
I would like to give this a try, but I'm using an SN-08 inductive sensor and I see no version supporting that: am I missing something?
Use the EZABL_mini_18adapter ring file (print 2) to make the EZABL mount fit your 12mm sensor.
Actually the SN-08 has a square footprint...
Well that shows how good Google search isn't. Ok, instead use the Touch-mi mount found in my parts list.
Thanks for your work on this , it fits perfectly on my ender 3 with all the stock fittings , looking forward to trying it out .
Thanks again Dadio
Thanks for choosing the Hero Me Gen2! Please post a make when you have it all setup.
I am overwhelmed by the choices regarding the fan.
I currently use the stock hot end on my Ender 3. I might switch to a better hotend later on. Noise reduction is not an issue.
What cooling fan solution do you recommend to be on the safe side without too much investment?
This will reuse your existing OEM fans with the Hero Me Gen2.
If you want a better parts cooling solution for low cost. Then get a 24v 5015 radial fan from www.TH3DStudio.com and print
Hero_Me_Single_5015_Duct_Gen2e.stl (instead of the OEM 4010).
thanks a lot!
I think I'd rather go for a dual solution. Therefore I will use two ball bearing 5015/24v.
I do use an ABL, the BLTOUCH V3. So I assume I have to print the holder. Is it
Both are required to be the mount for the BLTouch as this is adjustable vertically. There are different BLTouch devices out their (clones) where the height of the touch differs, hence the need for a two part solution to adjust the height for what you have.
Was curious if anyone has or if you've heard of anyone getting the ender 5 base file to work. Printed it along with the dual 5015, bl touch adapter and bracket in petg and all parts came out as close to perfect as I could hope for. Problem is the base will not fit an ender 5 with the way they run the belts let alone the bltouch addition. Is the file correct or is there something I am missing like a change on the belt slot or anything? Anyone who has gotten the ender 5 base to work it would be awesome if you could tell me your secret!
Here is an Hero Me Gen2 base remix for the Ender 5: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3485675
Note the comment on that remix, as there may be some difficulty mounting on the Ender 5.
Appreciate the link. I had looked at that one but went with your files since there was an Ender 5 base listed. It appears the entire thing (base, blower etc) would have to be “tweaked” to fit around the two belt slots. I was playing around in fusion 360 with trying to make a BLTouch adapter that works on the 5 as the left side mounting point, basically turning the base hero me into an integrated BLTouch base by using the touch mount as the left side of the base unfortunately working in mesh to combine the two stl files isn’t something I excel at. If it helps here is a link to the adaptor I am using and was trying to make the hero me base left side if that helps with what clears the left side belt holder. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3388571 Of course there is the belt holder on the right side also so not sure how that would impact trying to run a 5015 on the side.
I am working on a version that will fit for the Ender 5. To confirm that I am making the right adjustments, I need pics of the Ender 5 X gantry back plate and the measurements of the belt slot position in relation to the bottom left and right corners of the gantry plate. If you can help with that, I would greatly appreciate it.
I have an ender 5 and just tried to print and mount the STL currently included but found I couldn't fit over the hot end while it was mounted and didn't have clearance to tighten the hot end's mount screws to do so after fitting into the Hero Me Base while off the X gantry mount.
I'd be happy to provide pictures over the weekend here of how it fits with the hot end removed and how it won't fit while it's mounted.
Thank you for all that you do!
I updated the Hero Me base for the Ender 5. Improved the fit for the left side belt mount slot. Made it easier to slide the base over the hot-end. Please let me know if this is enough. Send pics and measurements if this does not work for you.
Attaching pictures of my install. I was able to get things to fit using my initial print, so Gen C I think, just needed to have it just right to slip over the heat break while the hotend was removed. I can measure the slot distance from edge later today and post another update as well.
Edit: fixed misstatements and clarified which version I installed (not the one linked in the parent comment, but an earlier iteration)
Thank you! I’ll give it a try and post a reply here as soon as I can; going to see if I can make the initial one fit well enough to print this new one by taking more apart and modifying post print like another commenter reported working for them. But I should be able to report on this new stl within the next week. I was planning to reprint with the Hero Me duct installed to improve the quality either way.
Thanks for the hard work you have obviously put into your design. Your revision documentation is very appreciated as well. Great job! I have been looking for a decent cooling fan setup since I bought my Ender 3 printer in late January. Your’s will be going on my printer, soon as I decide to go with a single fan or dual fans. Again, keep up the great work and I’ll update you once I have mine printed and installed.
Thanks for choosing the Hero Me Gen2! I look forward to seeing you make of the Hero Me.
Is there a guide how to install the extra fan, i have an ender 3, and i am interested in getting two 5015 fans installed, but i cant find a guide and i am not really familiar with installtion such things :)
The two fans are wired in parallel. red to red and black to black. You use the power wires that are there for the OEM fan that cools the part when printing (not the one that cools the heat sync for the hot-end). The power supply has enough current to support both fans at 100% power.
How do I print this out in PETG in Slic3r PE? The supports are especially tricky to get out
I don't use Slic3r, but you have to use the support setting equivalent of 'from build plate only'. You do not want supports inside the cooling channels. If Slic3r does not have such a setting, then use the free Cura slicer.
I'm using that setting, but with PETG filament, the supports end up being too hard to remove. Particually, in the BLTouch wing part, there's a hexagonal hole that gets filled with supports and it's pretty much impossible to remove.
I don't know what controls Slic3r offers as to density, layer gap, type, etc. of supports. Both Cura and S3D provide a wide range of support controls that make it easy to remove the supports that are used. You could print the BLTouch wing standing up with the left side face down on the build plate. see the attached image, the bottom in this straight on view would be down on the build plate (red line represents the build plate).
Sorry for the delay! I got busy with work. I actually just finished printing the wing part and the new orientation was MUCH easier to remove :D
I got one more thing to ask, I'm about to print out the other parts (all stock parts for the Ender 3) but I'm really nervous on how the supports are going to come out.. what orientation do you recommend me doing?
For the part cooling ducts, print whichever one you chose with the front face of the duct down flat on the build plate. This will give you the strength needed for the part. The Hero Me base should be printed with the back that faces the X gantry, place the back down flat to the build plate. Again for all the Hero Me parts, supports are needed (but not dense), and ONLY from the build plate. A good sharp Xacto knife is your friend when it comes to cleaning off the supports, careful they are sharp, I know this too well ;)
Just got the cooling duct out, and it was easy to clean up :D .. but now here's what I've been most afraid of: the base. The base in particular seems to have supports in some strange places.. here's what it looks like right now (same settings I've used on both the ducts and the Bltouch mount
I actually just finished printing out everything and it all came out well! Although the base did some hard to reach strings in the fan duct, but it sitll works none the less. Thanks for the help :D
thank you for the improvements over the original. The new set fit great. Only issue was the part cooling duct melted by the hot in on the wire side. For the next person that needs this print it in ABS if you are planning on printing PETG or ABS often.
Which printer and hot-end are you using? and which version of cooling duct are/were you using with the Hero Me? Do you have a silicone sock on your hot-end or just the paper and tape? If I know this info, I may be able to help. Silicone socks are the way to go. There are updates coming in the next couple weeks that will improve things greatly.
I'm on an ender 3 pro, with a silicon sock and stock hot end . I was using the most recent 5015 single version of the duct. I found a few little things after I reprinted. The first was the heater cartridge was not in the hot end deep enough. It still was getting very hot on that side still. I printed out a mold and cast a new sock to cover the wired end of the heater. I also reprinted the duct in abs. Now I can crank up the printer to 250c without the duct getting soft on that end.
I've had comments that the internal U bend (in the single 5015 duct) used to balance the air flow path length may be too restrictive. So, I have created a newer version that is in testing now that removes the internal U bend air flow. This version has a straight path for each duct. The two duct ports are 50% of the sq. mm size of the duct intact (which is the right ratio for the best positive air pressure). I have attached it for your consideration. It would be good to know if this helps, or if the duct tips are too thin walled, with a setup like yours etc.
Wanted to give you a follow up. Printed out of abs, made a custom sock to protect the right side a little more from the heater element and it has been flawless. I print most of my abs and petg stuff without cooling fan and I have had zero warpage from the right side since. It also prints beautifully in abs with some carefully manual support placement. The new design also works great. A little more airflow from the 5015 im running which comes in handy bridging printing hot and fast.
I'll give it a go. I think my original issue was just pla can't take the heat. It's glass transition state is just to low to be that close to the hot end. The abs doesn't have any issues. Haven't really noticed the air restriction yet since I've been working on PETG projects that I don't use part cooling on.
Hi, thank you for the design, I really like it.
Can please you rotate the left fan on the Dual 5015 design so that it pulls the air from the left instead of pulling from the center (where the hotend is).
It would be great if you can modify the exit ducts so that the air is going down to the part that's being printed instead of blowing to the nozzle.
The cooling ducts are designed to be vertically adjustable by you (this is why the mount pegs are slotted and there are multiple mount holes in the base). You can lower the duct so that the bottom of the duct is between 1mm and 2mm above the build plate when the nozzle is touching the build plate. In this setup the ducts are directing the air flow directly below the tip of the nozzle at the part.
The best solution to your request for the left hand 5015 fan to get cool air is to use this remix: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3481256
I used the X and Y offsets to flash my firmware with the TH3D firmware and it tells me I can't use integers so when the mount I am using says to offset X -45.4 I can't do the .4 only 45, will this still be ok to use with the EZABL?
YEs, rounding down to just 45 is fine.
Hello! I'm a little confused with the 5015 mod.
This mod uses 5015 0x50x15x15mm 24 V fan? Or does it require a fan 5015 40x40x10 mm?
They are two kinds of fans on amazon or aliexpress, and which ones to buy.
The 5015 part cooling ducts use one or two model 5015 fans. These fans are radial and have a dimension of 50mm X 50mm X 15mm. The fan used to cool the heat sync of the hot-end is a 40mm X 40MM axial fan. 12v or 24v depends on the printer you have. If you have a CR-10/S then you want the 12v fans. If you have an Ender 3 then you want the 24v fans. I do not know what voltages are used by other printer models.
Could you recomend me a 5015 24v fan for this mod? thanks
I buy all my fans from TH3DStudio.com here in the USA. They carry high quality sealed bearing fans.
Could yo recomemend me 5015 fan for this mod? This will work? 50x50x15x15mm 24v? Im from Argentina . https://es.aliexpress.com/item/80mm-80-2-unids-50x50x15x15mm-24-V-DC-2Pin-5-cm-Blushless-ventilador-de-refrigeraci-n/32896667517.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.99999999.265.16163c00bISX74
Hi! I really like this design but I've found a few problems. I have a dual 5015 setup and I recently printed the dial mount for dual fans but unfortunately it sticks out to the side too much and therefore prevents the head from homing on the x axis as the mount hits the end switch housing on my cr10. I was going to use it with a prusa pinda probe as it fits that mount perfectly. The other problem I have is that the little tabs that join the base to the duct are very prone to breaking and don't hold the heavy dual 5015 setup very well. It wobbles up and down a bit and it it always sags down after adjusting the heigh. It would be great if you made these tabs much thicker and possible even switch those to m3 bolts? Also an additional mounting point somewhere towards the front would be great. As I've said earlier, two 5015 fans weight quite a bit and that weight always tilts the duct down. Especially after a few hundred hours of printing. But besides these two little problems I wouldn't change much. Best fan duct design out there ;)
Thanks for choosing the Hero Me Gen2! To your first question. The dial mount was made for a request, I do not have one to test. If you can provide me with pics and measurements of what needs to change, I'll fix it. For question two, if the mount pegs on your part cooling ducts are snapping off, that sounds like you are printing the cooling duct in the wrong orientation. All the cooling ducts should be printed with the front face of the duct down flat on the build surface. Use supports, but only from the build plate. With the cooling ducts printed in this orientation, the mount pegs should be a tight fit into the slots on the side of the base. The current mount pegs and the Hero Me base are setup for M3 screws to self tap. Given that you have a few hundred hours of printing with the Hero Me, maybe you've printed an earlier version of the parts?
Can you add more wall/support to dual 5015 for better support
Ok, just for you. This is based on a newer duct tip design. Let me know what you think.
Thanks, will try it
Awesome works! Congrats :)
I will print Dual Fan 5015 version (Hero Me Base Gen2d.stl Hero_Me_Dual_5015_Duct_Gen2g.stl Base Lock - Gen2.stl=
What settings should I print with (support settings, infill, resolution etc.)? Thanks
These are reasonably complex shapes. I recommend printing at .16mm and slow your print speed to 50.
Print all the Ducts with the front face down flat on the print bed. Print the Base with the back side (that connects to the X gantry mount) down on the build plate.
This will give you the best results, strongest parts, and use the least amount of supports (but you DO NEED SUPPORTS).
For all the parts that do need supports, use "Touching Build Plate" only. You do not want supports inside the fan ducts or base.
Attached is a screen shot of the support settings I use in Simplify3D.
First, thanks for your great work on this! I'm having some difficulty installing my OEM fan in the Hero_Me_OEM_4010_duct_Gen2f. On mine the screw mounts won't fit without forcing (cracking) the duct itself, and the model/fan measurements show what might be happening with the lack of space. Wondering if I am doing something wrong. I tried layer heights of both .16 and .12.
Note it was hard to get a good pic in Fusion without obscuring the label, but I chose the two parallel vertices on the outer edge.
Here is an updated duct with a 2.05 gap for your wider fan tabs.
Looks like not all 4010 fans are created equal. I will widen the gap to make it work with fans that have thicker tabs. I will post a file shortly. You could also use an Xacto knife to shave the plastic to widen the gap.
Thanks a ton! I initially tried to shave it down with a knife, but it quickly got mangled. I'm going to do a test print now of just enough of the model to make sure the fan fits.
It fits now! Still pretty snug, but this was a draft test. Tomorrow I hope to print the final in 0.12. Thanks again!
Hello There! I Have Question, whats files do i need to print for 5015 fans? I have a Ender 3. Only Hero_Me_Dual_5015_Duct_Gen2g.stl or another file too?
You have to print the base and the base lock as well.
For a dual 5015 setup you need:
Hero Me Base Gen2d.stl
Base Lock - Gen2.stl
This is all in the summary.
The STL File Hero Me Duct 4010 is broken... i want to print it but there is a gap between the left air outlet and the rest. ;) only a notice for you ;)
I am working on a fix to resolve this issue. In the mean time, if you're using Cura, turn off Print thin Walls, turn on Fill gaps between Walls to 'Everywhere'. This prints fine with my S3D profile.
I got the same gap.
Tried to play with this two settings without success.
Nevertheless my print turned fine after all.
Relative to the nozzle, how far up/down should the duct be ? i.e. where the cooling air comes out of the ducts
Thank you !
More info: The lower the better, but not so low as to catch on the printed parts. I set mine to about 1.2mm - 1.4mm above the bed. There are some duct leveling helpers included with one of the remixes here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3481256
When the hot-end nozzle is touching the build plate, the bottom of the part cooling duct should be between 1mm and 2mm above the build plate (depending on your hot-end and nozzle shape/size). You want the ducts to be blowing air at the base of the nozzle.
Hello, I have ender 3 with Trianglelab High All-metal v6 hotend and I would like to print the fixing and blowing single 5015 + fixing Trianglelab A 2019 3D TOUCH, my question what files do I need to print?
You're at the right maker but the wrong thing. For your Trianglelab V6 you need to use my E3D V6 remix of the Hero Me Gen2. You can find it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3291101
The parts you will for what you described are:
Marlin firmware offset update needed for the BLTouch clone are:
BLTouch and Single 5015 duct: -42 X and -8 Y
for a fully stock Ender-3 (with BLTOUCH ABL)
printed these :
what is the BLTOUCH mount i can use.
and what are offset values...
because in post i can see no "Hero_Me_OEM_4010 " offset values.
For the BLTouch with the OEM 4010 part cooling fan & duct, you need:
You don't need:
Marlin firmware offset update needed for the BLTouch are:
4010 OEM fan or single 5015 duct: Use -42 X and -16 Y
Hello!!! Any chance for 60mm coldend vent mod?!? Thank you in advance
LE: i use dual 5015 setup with 60mm coldend vent and bltouch
Try adding this to the base: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2178209
im sorry for such newbie question.. my 2nd day owning an ender 3... i would like to ask which files should i print for stock fans/screws..
thank you.. sorry.. i dont understand model numbers indicated..
thank you very much... i appreciate your time helping us enjoy printing :D
MediaMan, I have created a version of the Hero_Me_Base_Gen2d in Fusion 360.
This was designed from scratch using your STL file for measurements. It is a very close replica. If it is useful please feel free to incorporate it into the main project.
I have also updated the Teaching Techs remix of the original Hero Me Base, but using the Gen2d design, for use with the DD E3 Direct Drive mount from Basaraba Innovations
Feel free to incorporate this into the main project.
STEP files are included in both projects.
Eugene, Awesome! Thanks so much. I will check these out this evening and add to the project. Andy
Hi, as I broke a part of my Hero 2 I´d love to give this one a go. I´m just unsure if it will print hasslefree with supports only from the base. I marked one of the spots I think it will fail without addidtional support. Could you please let me know if I really don´t need any support there.
Thanks in advance.
I've never needed to put supports there. That is a very small bridge, even a fair setup should be able to bridge that far without supports. You will know best if you have printed items that bridge 1/2 inch (actually less than 1/2).
ok, i just thought it needs to print a curve with no support under it. seems i´m wrong :)
can you give a hint, please, how much weight does the HeroMe add in his different versions ?
I've never weighed the parts till now. a full setup (not including fans & hot-end) varies between 2 and 3 ounces. Very light weight.
There is a LED - holder added, but how do I have to insatll this thing?
can someone add a picture of a installation?
The LED holder was designed (for a request) specifically for the single 5015 parts cooling duct. I do not have an LED holder for any of the other part cooling ducts. The attached screen shots show the orientation of the LED holder (curved side up. flat side down, with shade lip on front edge).
Thanks, for the information and the picture.
So it's not made for the oem version.
OEM version of what? The LED mount is for the Hero Me Gen2 cooling system. This cooling system works with the OEM fans and hot-end of the CR-10/S, Ender 2 or 3.
In your first answer you wrote something about the 5015 fan. So, for me it was not clear if is suitable for the other versions.
Ok, yes. the LED is only for my 5015 single fan parts cooling duct. It is not designed for the single OEM 4010 fan duct.
is it possible to have the cad-file, so that I can create a ledstrip holder?
Thanks, that was my question, because I don't know if all the fan duct are at that position equal or if the have a different shape?!?
I have finally finished doing the SimScale airflow simulation of my parametric version of the Hero Me duct, and have uploaded a modified version of it, as well as screenshots of the simulation output. I think I will make one slight change, to smooth out one odd bump, but this is the one I am printing.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3481256
Hi. Thank you for your work! However, I need to make some small changes. I tried exporting from Tinkercad to .STEP and also directly to Fusion 360 with no luck. Is there any chance you can try to convert the files to .STEP and share? I would appreciate it. Thanks!
All my originals are in TinkerCAD. The experimental STP export that TinkerCAD offers does not work with complex shapes. I have not had any success in creating STEP files from TinkerCAD. What mods would you like to have done? Which part(s)?
Hi Hero_Me_OEM_4010_duct_Gen2f.stl have drawing problems in simplify3d can you fix it?
and i cant print it just broke then it finishing
You want to print the Hero_Me_OEM_4010_duct_Gen2f.stl with the front face of the cooling duct down flat on the build plate. This will use less supports (use support from build plate only). Hundreds of people have successfully printed this part without issue. the wall thicknesses are correct. See screen shot from Simplify3D.
fnx i found problem it was allowed single line extrusion
Hi, I'm currently printing the duct for the stock 4010 fan. I just saw that in your 3D model there is a small gap in the right duct (fan side). It's small but I can see in cura that there is. The quality of the STL file is also not too good. Hope that the duct will stay on once finished to print. I attack some pictures.
It prints solid and performs as expected. I will correct the minor anomaly just to make all the questions about this specific thing stop.
I just finished printing this and mine has a physical gap.
I used Cura with stock Ender 3 settings other than 0.16 layer height and print speed of 50.
It's generally a pretty decent print other than the gap, its actually only attached on the top layer. In Cura layer viewer it doesn't look like there should be as big of a gap as I have (it looks like the two pieces should be beside each other) but it is consistent gap the whole way up.
I'm not 100% sure if I printed it in the correct orientation, but I checked the comments and did it the same as someone who asked was it correct (front of the cooling part was on the base of the printer) Supports pulled away clean too.I'm a pretty novice printer and I only got the ender this week so still finding my way around it.
Saw this as well (see comments below) but printed it anyway. Prints just fine even with the flaws in the technical drawing. The final product is sturdy and shaped as it should be
I fixed it as much as I could.
Thanks for trying, but I'm sorry, but your 'fix' is worse than my original (see screen shot, your fix on the left, original on the right). I will correct the minor anomaly just to make all the questions about this specific thing stop. It prints solid and performs as expected.
Firstly, thanks for reply and amazing work you're doing!
Strange, it looks like slicer or settings depends on output in that case. I tried to compare it as much as I could before uploading here earlier:https://imgur.com/a/LLRsFsa
But I understand your concern as I'm not 3d modeler and have little experience. Sorry for making confusion.
Additional question. After printing your mounting and duct for original parts and fans for Ender 3, and printing the same gcode 'micro test' tower, I saw that nozzle created a ton of little strings, looking like dust, covering half of print. On stock cooling everything was ok.https://i.imgur.com/a5pQJmf.jpg
Fan through printing was set at 100% (255) and hotend temperature was set to 205*C.
Here is the position of duct:https://i.imgur.com/qbjxqvq.jpg
And water test:https://imgur.com/a/KhsdVCP
Sadly, there is almost no change in overhangs too, but I assume that this might be connected with other potential problems and not with cooling:https://i.imgur.com/rPr3EYz.jpg
Duct was printed with recommended lh 0.12 and speed of 48.
Hi! I have an Ender 3 with BLTOUCH, and I would like to install Hero Me Gen 2 fan duct dual 5015. Which files I have to print? I have seen that the BLTOUCH is floating out of the printing head, to the left, and I don't have a clear idea if that will be a problem for the X end stop. Is it necessary to modify anything there to install this setup (dual 5015 and BLTOUCH)? Thank you
Hmm. my reply got 'flagged for moderation', very strange. You want print the following parts:
The X end stop will not be a problem.
Thank you Mediaman. Printed and working. Thank you very much for your work.
Could you add to the description that the fan duct offset from nozzle is between 1mm to 2mm? I have been reading lots of comments units I found that info.
Here are the parts you need to print for the setup you have described:
The X end stop will not be an issue.
Does anyone know what the "adj_mount" version for BLTOUCH is for? Do we use both that and "wing"?
The BLTouch 'adj_mount' STL files work with the wing files. BLTouch_wing_singlefan-_Gen2.stl and BLTouch_wing_dualfan-_Gen2.stl files. This allows for adjusting the height of the BLTouch (or clone) to the right height for your hot-end setup.
Sorry no idea. I printed the mount but it doesn't fit anywhere and has grooves in the back that don't seem to match any surface.
The wing is what you put on the base, the adjustable mount (adj_mount) you can screw on this wing. The grooves match then
Loving it so far, Great Work! Printing petg and the prints come out extremely strong, fans on 30% with the dual 5015s, however, this is the 2nd one i had break here. same side and minimal pressure. Would it be possible to extend the rear wall for the fan so that it is L shaped or even extended all the way to add some more strength? Looking at the way the fan mounts it shouldn't be an issue to install fans even with the rear fan wall extended. Everything else is solid on the part though! love the design!
Sorry, but you have printed the part cooling fan in the wrong orientation. Print it with the front face of the cooling duct down flat on the build plate. This will give the strength needed in the upper arms that retain the fans.
Makes sense. I will reprint and update. Thankya!
Hello, I installed this duct on my ender 3 pro, but unfortunately, the filament fan position hinders me from easily removing the fan as everything takes a lot of time to mount and attach, would it be possible to adjust the position of that fan? Say a bit outward to the right. That way I can easily snug the fan in place without squishing other cables.
Which of the 7 part cooling ducts for the Hero Me Gen2 are you referring to? There is a remix for the dual 5015 that tips the fans forward. You can see it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3481256/files ACWest who did that remix is in process of making versions for several of the other part cooling ducts.
Or are you referring to the heat sync cooling fan? There is no changing that, as that is core to the design.
I want to remix it to use a 4040 fan as Partcooling. The Original with only one fan is not in the tinkercad file. any chance of getting it somewere?
4040 fan??? Do you mean a 4020 fan? There is a Dual 4020 parts cooling fan duct STL in the files. If you want a single 4020 fan parts cooling duct there is a remix for that here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3455775. But I tried looking up a 4040 fan and found nothing. Point me to the fan you want to use and I will see what I can do. (it will be added to my long mod request todo list).
I want to use the same fan size as the Hotend cooling fan, in order to make it silent
Sorry, I won't be doing a remix to support any axial fans to perform part cooling. That goes against the design and space savings of the Hero Me. But, I will make sure all the parts are in the TinkerCAD project so you can remix it the way you want. I will get that done this evening.
A 40x40x10 fan, like the hotend has, is not well suited for parts cooling. It does produce enough pressure to squeeze the air through a small tunnel like a 4010 or 5015 can
Should the supports for the 4010 fan ducts be like this?
Basically yes, but you don't need any where near that much support density. For support set "Touching Build Plate" only. You do not want supports inside the fan ducts or base. Here is an image of my support settings for S3D. Cura would not be much different.
Some of the supports I actually added in because it looked like they wouldn't come out right without those supports (missing 1 and 2). Support 1,2, and 3 show what it originally looked like without the added supports
It appears that the STL for the single OEM 4010 fan (Hero_Me_OEM_4010_duct_Gen2f.stl) is broken. The tip of the fan duct on the side with the blower has broken geometry that causes the mesh to be split when slicing.
Is it possible to get an updated model that fixes this?
It will print fine as is, but I am working on a fix.
I think it will probably print fine, but I'm worried about the strength of the seam as it looks like it would be a weak point. A fix would be awesome though!
Thanks for trying, but I'm sorry, but your 'fix' is worse than my original (see screen shot, your fix on the left, original on the right). I will correct the minor anomaly just to make all the questions about this specific thing stop. It prints solid and performs as expected.
Noticed the same, fortunately before I printed it. Not really capable enough to fix it myself I guess. Any chance you can fix it mediaman?
This has been working great on my S5, and I've confirmed that it will fit on a CR-10 Mini as well. Only problem with the E3D V6-compatible model is that the retention clip for the hotend is designed in such a way that you have to flex the main body to fit it - and when you print the carriage in the supplied orientation, this will break the thing in half. I ended up breaking it by accident, installing the E3D V6, and then gluing the whole thing back together with 3DFuze.
Recommend either the author updates the original file with these issues in mind, or users prepare to either remove material, re-design the part, or print the carriage in such an orientation that it is sitting vertical on the build plate, not horizontal.
Redesign for the E3D V6 mount (which is a different thing than this thread is about) is underway. It currently can be assembled without breaking when printed with PETG. The collar part is tight and 'snaps' in to fit. Printing the Base 2 part on the other axis may help strengthen it for assembly. It will be a week or so before I can finish the redesign.
What is the best way to set the duct height? should it have a 0mm z-offset with the tip of the nozzle? How did you all set-up its height?
When the hot-end nozzle is touching the build plate, the bottom of the part cooling duct should be between 1mm and 2mm above the build plate (depending on your hot-end and nozzle shape/size).
Ok printed and installed with a Sunon 5015 fan.
Its loud as f*ck! Any way to make it work more quiet on low%?
Im running Ender 3 with a stepdown to 12v on fan.
50% to 70% fan speed is plenty to cool all parts. When using a dual 5015 setup, both fans can be at 40% (or less). The whole setup becomes very quiet done this way.
What is the height of the nozzles compared to the tip of the hotend off the bed?
This product looks quite promissing and I want to get into the fun, but I'm running the Tiny Machines firmware. They only make HEX files for their firmware.
Is there a solution to put the Marlin firmware offsets for ABL in the firmware some other eay?
I believe there is also a way to load the ABL offset into the gcode starting script but I don't know the specific commands.
There is a fix provided by TM3D. https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin and if you go to issues and look for "CR-10S Pro, ABL data different after restart machine " or strait to the link below, someone already compiled the fix for the Hero Me. https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/issues/22 .
Thanks for the design.
I will try.
I have a question in anticipation of a problem.
I have a damper in my x motor, and to install it and keep the metal frame, I printed a part that inverts the x-motor. The X axis stopper is in a different position for triggering. Basically my bltouch cannot be to the left of the extruder railing plate or it will touch the motor before the stopper.
I would rather have it on the left side because of my warped bed profile, that's why I'm dropping the bullseye and going for this (or back to the stock :( ).
My question is, how many mm does the bltouch "extrudes" from the metal support for the parts (like the picture drawn green limit)? In my case it can't pass to the left of it. Do you think there's space for me to design a new holder for bltouch?
Thank you so much for your time and designs!!
The BLTouch mount and sensor are within the bounds of the metal X gantry plate. It should not be a problem for you in that sense. See the attached TinkerCAD graphic. If you need a block higher up to trigger the X end stop at the right position, I can modify the BLTouch wing file to rise above the top of the X gantry plate to match the position of your stop switch. All I need is the size and position of the red block (see second image) in mm of distance X, Y, & Z from the top edge and left edge of the X gantry plate.
So just to verify after reading the comments, the base is printed in the orientation the file is in. The part to anchor the wires to would be printed horizontally. Is this correct?
You are correct. This will give you the strongest part.
Hi any idea why my mount is wonky? This is on Ender 3 Single 5015 fan design. Thanks
I'm glad to try and help. I have a few questions that will help understand what's going on. What layer height are the base and part cooling ducts printed at? Are there any wire connectors, or number of wires that are pushing the 5015 fan out from the side of the base? The hot-end wires should all fit in the wire cable channel. The fan should be vertically flat against the side of the Hero Me base. Also the base looks to not be horizontally level with the X gantry. The right side of the base is lower than the left (as seen by the amount of heat sync showing in the middle (left to right). Was the parts cooling duct very tight when attempting to mount and position it vertically on the base (the pegs fitting into the slots)?
Thanks for the reply. They were printed at 0.12 layer height. I don't believe it's wires pushing the 5015 fan out but more the base mount. The parts cooling duct was quite tight.
I might re-print the part cooling duct again. I'll report back.
Confirming a reprint did seem to fix it of the part cooling duct. 20% support 0.12 layer height. Not sure why the first was wonky. Thanks for a great design!
Spoke to soon. Mount is starting to bow again one day later. This is PLA printed at 200 degrees 50% infill 0.12 layer height. Is the part cooling duct warping from the heat of the head block? Any suggested fix?
There is already a silicon sock on the heat block
Mine did the same thing. And my prints were getting worse. I found that my hotend was overheating. After inspecting it, the screw for the thermal sensor had backed out and was giving false readings. You may want to check and see if that may be your issue.
Wich fan and how to wire for dual fan ?
Thank you. I'm not sure I understand the first half of your question. With the Hero Me Gen2, you get to choose what fans you want to use. There are parts cooling ducts for the Hero Me that support the OEM fans, 5015 fans, 5020 fans, and 4020 fans in single and some in dual fan setups. Wire any dual fan setup, wire the fans in parallel. Red to Red, and Black to Black. There is enough current coming from the control board to drive two fans with no issues.
Ok thanks for your reply.
Just to be sure got an ender 3 pro, read that stock fan is 24v so just have to get 2 24v fan and wire them un parallel ?
Someone Can confirme if dual 4010 stock fan is ok or better to replace with 2 5015 ?
Its an awesome design. Thank you.
I am coming from smooth fang, then petsfang and this is by far the most interesting one - thanks to compactness and cable management option.
I printed parts for dual blowers ok, 80% fill PLA, cleaned up supports, but here is interesting pickle - fit for blowers was so tight that i broke off both bolt ears on duct. Still put it all together, as fit is tight and holds on by itself kinda fine (till i print out new duct with this duct.. ;))
What i noticed, however, is similar problem to petsfang - with parts sliding on and simingly tight fit - there is still noticeable potential for tilt in X and Y directions. Also BLTouch mount has very little play room to be lifted.
Just a thought.
Why my ducts are off center with respect to the nozzle? X & Y axis.
Using the OEM 4010 duct, mine are also off-centered with x and y. The majority of the fins are more forward, with very little sticking backward (while facing the machine). Is this how it's supposed to be? Any updates to it?
I got exactly the same issue, but i think you mean Y and Z axis. My Hero Me is having the same issue on the Y and Z axis. The air is blowing a couple of centimeters in front of the nozzle. Regarding the Z axis, the left side is lower than the right side and i know that u can adjust the height of each side via the screws but if you balance it according to the nozzle then it is not balanced towards the Hero Me base.
It needs some investigation.
Thank you for the work btw.
Sorry for my delayed reply, I’ve been away in Florida for a few days (back tonight). I will be able to investigate what may be at issue this week.
Thanks for sharing this amazing work.
I'm planning to go with Dual 4010 Fan Duct with BLTouch, do I need to set new offsets? I don't see the offset for this config in the list. If I need to set the offset, can I do it through gcode from simplify3d? Thanks!
Sorry for my delayed reply, I’ve been away in Florida for a few days (back tonight). I will be able to get you the info today.
To anyone who can help with this part. I recently printed and installed this on my Ender 3 Pro (single 4010 fan, no ABL) and tested it out. I'm mainly printing minis and was not impressed so wondering if I'm doing something wrong. In these pics, the left is my original stock print, right the Hero Me (same gcode) In the Hero Me (HM) print, the shield isn't circular, the sword VERY lumpy, the face details a bit more muddled, and the print overall is VERY shiny (may be hard to see in the pics). I tried 2 HM prints thinking maybe I made a dud, but both were like this. I tried a 3rd one too, reducing the fan speed thinking that was an issue but no change. I'm VERY new to 3d printing and loving it, but completely aware I don't always know what I'm doing so any insights would be great. Thanks!
Sorry for my delayed reply, I’ve been away in Florida for a few days (back tonight). I will be able to investigate this with you this week.
How do i print the parts for the stock ender 3 screws and parts? The duct adds a lot of hard to reach supports on the inside in cura even with 60 degree that i can do.
I’m currently traveling. I will get you an answer later today.
I have a glass bed. And this duct clips the binder clips. I tried adjusting. If I go any higher I'll be blowing the nozzle not the print
I'll tell you what I tell everyone who asks this question regarding bed clips. I stopped using bed clips 2 years ago. You can too. Here is a link to the $8 solution: https://www.amazon.com/FBApayipa-400mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B01N9HGKR1/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Thermal+Silicone+Pad&qid=1552619021&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I used this on the build plate surface for the past 2 years, and then rest the glass plate on this. no slip ever, yet easy to remove the glass plate, and totally reversible if you choose to go to a higher end solution later, like the Flexi plate solution from Wham Bam: https://whambamsystems.com This is what I use now. Otherwise, yes, with clips you get less build area, set your gcode to start 10mm in from the Y 0 point.
I did a direct drive mod for my ender 3 and the extruder motor isn't centered so can anyone edit the dual 5015 mount for me? I just need the spacing between the 2 fans to be 7mm wider than it currently is. I would do it but I have trouble editing stl files
Just use the parametric fan duct with the base for direct drive. See my pics attached.
I am out for the next week, so I won't be able to do this for awhile. BUT... Another user of the Hero Me has made his own duct mod and just did a mod that I think will fit your needs. He wrote the following to the other user requesting a change like you did. ACWEST Said: "Try this one. I added 7mm of clearance (to both sides, to keep it symmetrical) which looks like it should be plenty from you picture. This is with my latest nozzle design, which is still a little experimental, but I have high hopes for it... The previous nozzle version works really well, but I noticed that on 100% fan it cools the extruder tip significantly. This one should be better" You can find his work here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3481256
Oh thanks! I'll try it out today :)
Excuse me, I have many doubts about how to orientate and print the ducts. The notes say "Print all the Ducts with the front face down flat on the print bed", so it's fine how I'm doing it? Because I see many parts that are printed in the air! Or should I flip the piece 180 degrees?
The way you have it in your photo is correct. Front face down on the build plate. People who print it upright are not getting a part that is as strong as possible, especially those with the vertical 'wings' to hold the 5015 in place. Printed vertically they can snap off because the build layers are horizontal in that thin area.
Thanks man. But... I feel somewhat uncomfortable not to put brackets where indicated in this last photo :-S
Ok, you know you printer's performance better than anyone. For that duct, because there is no tall wing like the others, you can get away with printing it sitting upright.
I want to print it as you say, but those tabs are in the air! Sorry, I'm newbie, but I do not see that they are forming in an angle and progressively, they just appear horizontally from one layer to another. I will use supports there, I do not want the print to be ruined almost at the end. Sorry :(
So I ordered a new 5015 blower, but it wont arrive for 3 weeks.
Which parts should i print?
The Hero_Me_Base_Gen2d.stl, the Hero_Me_Single_5015_Duct_Gen2e.stl, and then the BaseLock-_Gen2.stl. If you have an ABL (EZABL or BLTouch) then print the mount for those instead of the Base Lock file. If you want to use the Hero Me while your waiting for the 5015 blower to arrive, then print the Hero_Me_OEM_4010_duct_Gen2f.stl to use your current part cooling fan until then. When the new fan arrives, just swap out the cooling duct.
ok so if i print this i want the version with a dual 5015 for my ender 3 and a bl touch mount but how do i connect the wires ? do i have to lead one to the fan port and the other one to someting else or do i have to wire them up in series?
For the dual 5015 fans, you wire them in parallel. Red to red, and black to black. There is plenty of power to drive both fans from the one original fan's wiring.
I'm sorry, but for the BLTouch, I have no clue where it is connected, as I do not own one. I would assume the z-stop switch, but you should get info from one of the many 3D printer Facebook forums for Creality printers. There are lots of folks with this expertise there.
Thanks for helping me i now understand it :)
So I've just printed the dual 5015 fan duct, and it does not fit when using the basaraba direct drive. Since the extruder motor is offset to the left a small bit, the top of my left fan cannot sit into place. Is there a chance you could add the files for me to upload into fusion so I can make some changes? Thank you!
I think I am going to see if the parametric duct will fit, found in the comments below
If it doesn't fit, just tell me what part is having clearance issues and by how much. I can send you the openscad files, but my code is pretty ugly still. I suspect this thing will kill the customiser, too
The left fan hits the extruder motor. The basaraba conversion sets the extruder motor above the hot end, off-center to the left. In my pic, the fans still need to come up another cm at most
I suspect my parametric version won't quite clear that either, but I can tilt it outwards a bit too, and that should do it. Would 5mm outwards at the top be enough, do you think?
Maybe 10cm might be better. Are you trying to tilt the original upright design or your parametric design?
My parametric one. I hadn't put in a parameter for that, but I almost have it now, just checking if it will cause any problems
It will be slightly more complicated than anticipated, as I have to fix the support strut as well. Always good to find missing cases in the acceptance criteria and use cases :-). I should have it by tomorrow, though
Haha alright. I’ve just cut the ducts in half and I’m using the right fan only for now. It’s working for now, so no need to rush or anything! Thank you!
Actually, I am wondering, which base are you using? It looks like the cooling fan for the hot end is vertical, is that the original Hero Me base?
Can you measure exactly how far the motor is offset? a millimetre or two makes a really big difference in the air flow quality. It turns out angling it out is too complicated to be worth doing right now, but I already included code just to shift the fans out a bit, so I can do that very easily
Try this one. I added 7mm of clearance (to both sides, to keep it symmetrical) which looks like it should be plenty from you picture. This is with my latest nozzle design, which is still a little experimental, but I have high hopes for it... The previous nozzle version works really well, but I noticed that on 100% fan it cools the extruder tip significantly. This one should be better
This is just to get these images loaded so I can refer to them in another note.
I haven’t had a chance to measure it yet. The base I’m using is the gen2, for the basaraba direct drive mod. It’s the very last on the list of items. And I’ll definitely try this one out! I’m currently installing a new board so it will be a bit before I’m printing. Hopefully after the weekend
i don't know what I did differently but mine is working fine, see pics attached.
P.S. Dual fans is loud as hell. After I upgraded to the MKS Gen L with TKS2208 Drivers all I hear is the fans, and they are loud.
Nice! Looks like that forward tilt did the trick! And if you want quieter blower fans, go to Mouser and grab some Sunon blowers. They are cheap, QUIET, and have maglev vapo bearings. There are a few options as far as cfm and of course the higher cfm will be louder. I grabbed two of the 3.2 cfm fans and they’re significantly quieter than anything I’ve bought off amazon
Thank you, gonna check them out now.
what was your print orientation?
as it is with support from the bed only
Which is the direction of the air for the hotend colling fan?
You want the air pushing in across the heat sink to prevent heat creep.
Hi, where can I get that hot end jet-like fan shroud?
The link is listed in the Summary description:
Optionally, you can add any fan shroud of your choice as long as it fits in 40mm x 40mm. The one shown in my pictures can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1662879
Ok - I am missing something. I have an Ender 3 Pro (newbie). I downloaded the file, and am instructed to print these files:
Hero Me Base Gen2.stl
Hero Me OEM 4010 duct - Gen2.stl
Base Lock - Gen2.stl
In the file I do not see:
Hero Me Base Gen2.stl
I do see:
DD_E3_Hero_Me_Base_Gen2.stl (don't know what DD is)
Hero_Me_BaseGen2c-_Ender_5.stl (I am assuming this is for an Ender 5 - if there is such a thing)
Hero_Me_Base_Gen2d.stl (don't know what the Gen2d is)
Is the file missing the
Hero Me Base Gen2.stl ?
I am leaning toward the Gen2d - but am assuming I would be instructed to download the "Gen2d" - especially since there are several Gen2 iterations. I don't want to waste 5 hours on printing something that doesn't work. Again - if I am missing something, I apologize for the comment.
Ok, no problem. The 'd' (or any letter after Gen2) is the updated most current version of that part. So... 'Hero Me Base Gen2d.stl' is the latest version of the 'Hero Me Base Gen2' base. There is a Ender 5 3D printer from Creality. The 'DD' version is for the Direct Drive option from another maker's DD E3D V6 kit. I will update the summary info with the current version info.
Ah - that makes sense. My bad. Thanks for clarifying!
How necessary are the internal fins? My openSCAD version of the dual duct is almost finished, but I haven't included them, and am wondering if they are actually necessary...
I am not the original designer of the part. My evaluation of the fins is that they help to equalize the airflow across the width of the exhaust port tips of the ducts. Having said that, I have not done any CFD analysis of the ducts to prove/disprove their usefulness. I have downloaded SimScale and I intend to test the fluid dynamics of the part cooling ducts to improve them further. With your question, I will add to my tests versions without the internal fins and see what happens.
I don't know when I will have results as I have to learn to use SimScale. If you choose to print them without the fins I would be interested in your results of using the part on your printer. I look forward to your openSCAD version, as all my work on all my Hero Me remixes is done in TinkerCAD.
Well, I have something, haven't printed it yet, but it was a lot of work, and I like how it looks.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3481256
This is based on generation 2c, so I should probably find out what has changed since then. The min open questions, besides does it work at all, at 1) are the fins necessary? and 2) is the weight shift too much?
Both issues can be fixed if I need to... I definitely see how the fins would be useful to keep the airflow even, but I don't know if losses caused by their presence are enough to cancel the benefit. I will probably try both ways
Here is a cleaned up version where all the non-manifold issues and duplicate triangles have been repaired (I believe).
I haven't checked this yet, but it is likely to be very helpful. How did you clean it up? I didn't know tinker ad could do that
TinkerCAD can't clean it up. I used what little I know of FreeCAD to use the analyze and repair Mesh tools to do the clean-up. Here is a screen shot with your duct sample. I like the fins you have created. I am not sure the duct tips are angled enough. My fins are also angled by the same amount in the lower section of the tip to ensure the air flow is at, but off the tip of the hot-end nozzle. Image now attached.
Very cool on first look! I will take a closer look at these this evening. You will want to consider the new duct fang nozzle design I have done for these parts. I've been talking to someone who has done the fluid dynamics testing of several parts cooling ducts including mine and the Petsfang. The size I had was too restrictive of the airflow and the turbulence created right at the tip of the hot-end reduces the effective cooling. From that feedback I have doubled the fang nozzle size and also angled the output to move the turbulence point off the tip of the hot-end nozzle. Check out the version attached.
I just updated mine, I now have fin and no-fin versions. I angled the bottom of the support brackets, because yours looks better, and I think it may help with how it will print, Cura didn't seem to think the brackets needed support, which seems unlikely to me
I decided rounder is better.... The new shape seems to give a lot cleaner looking air channel
Beautiful prints! Let me know if the front loaded weight is an issue. Does just two screws keep it in place and prevent vibration or bounce?
The fin version is working beautifully, I have made one of the cleanest benches I have ever done at 50% fan. I am going to do some temperature towers at various fan speeds with both versions for comparison, as well as the bowl test.
I recently found a research paper about duct design to optimise performance on short layers, and the conclusion in their case was that two fans, one highly focused and one with higher dispersion was ideal. I think in the case of this duct, modifying the fins so that they angle inwards in the nozzle would give the same effect, the middle section would be highly focused below the tip, and the outer sections would be dispersed. I haven't tried it yet though
Hi mediaman would like to ask your design is working with fake E3D V6 i think this is what i have,bought from Amazon today, Uranny 1 Set Titan Extruder+Stepper Motor+ v6 Kit for 1.75 3D Printer Part (1-Titan Extruder).Have no parts to hold the extruder.Thank you
For the E3D V6 (and clones) you want this version of the Hero Me Gen2: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3291101 Note that the Hero Me is not designed for a Direct Drive system (there are remixes of the Hero Me for DD systems, not sure about one for the E3D though). Check out all the Hero Me remix work I have found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/mediaman/collections/hero-me-cooling-systems
Thank you i go with the Gen2 what you suggest.Maybe try the DD what you told.Thank you for your time and help.
I would like to ask if this support the piezo sensor mount... I would like to give this type of sensor a try and I like your design and regular updates and if you think it will work with the original hot-end (MK10)https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2886915
Thank you so much for your dedication and hardwork
Ok! Thanks for choosing the Hero Me Gen2. No, there is not a Gen3 coming anytime soon, but I do make small incremental updates every couple of weeks. The latest significant update was to the cooling duct tips for better air flow and turbulence reduction. Those mods were posted last week.
I don't know. I will have to add it to my backlog list of requested mods. I have looked at the images of the piezo sensor mount, and at first glance the Hero Me base would need some significant modification because of the size of the piezo mount. I can't yet promise anything, but when I can get to it, I will print the piezo parts and take measurements. The best chance of integration would be with the Hero Me Gen2 for E3D V6 which has the same neck mount as is used by the piezo. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3291101
it's great that you were able to read my previous comment which I posted in another question by someone else by mistake and tried to fix that but I deleted it before copying the text...
Actually regard the duct upgrade I was thinking why not making it form a sort of circle around the nozzle as well to distribute the air more evenly and also be wider while taking the same space! I hope you get what I mean otherwise I will try to make a drawing or a modeling to explain the idea, but I am sure you will get it.
I got copied on your comment via email from Thingiverse. I have made circle ducts for other 3D printers in the past (see: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2155351 ), but the evolved designs (where CFD testing has been done) over the past couple years have moved away from surrounding the nozzle from all sides for several reasons. Two primary ones; One, it blocks the view of the nozzle tip when laying down early layers, specifically the critical first layer. Two, circular cooling ducts also cause lots of air pressure turbulence at the nozzle tip because the air flow is fighting itself from all directions and this reduces the effectiveness of the cooling that is needed, especially for bridging.
The best designs (like the well tested PetsFang) have two air streams coming from opposite sides of the nozzle but angled at ~15 degrees to move the turbulence off the tip of the nozzle so that there is always clean smooth air flow across the part. All my Hero Me Gen2 ducts now have this same attribute. I have downloaded SimScale and I intend to test the fluid dynamics of the part cooling ducts to improve them further.
Note that with my Hero Me Gen2 part cooling ducts (before modifying them to be angled like the PetsFang) I could successfully bridge in mid air (with no supports) gaps of over 200mm and have no drooping filament!
Thank you for the detailed response, I really appreciate! I will start printing the parts right away tonight and I will share the making and impression soon :)
Hey there, do you know what the offset would be with the oem fan 4010 duct?. I saw in your details the offsets listed for a 5015 duct but I don't see the 4010.
Parts I printed per your details :
Hero Me Base Gen2.stl
Hero Me OEM 4010 duct - Gen2.stl
Base Lock - Gen2.stl
You don't need an offset if you do not use an ABL sensor of some kind. The Base Lock - Gen2.stl is only used when you are not using some form of ABL sensor option. You do not list whether you are using the EZABL, or the BLTouch, or a Dial type. If you are, the offset listings that say "OEM fan and..." (the OEM refers to the stock 4010 fan) are what you want to use for an offset.
I'm using the 5015 fan shroud. I have to run it at 10%, when printing PETG, because at higher speed it puts out to much cooling causing the extruder to skip. The fan is a 24v fan. Should I try a different fan shroud?
What printer is this used on? The Ender 3 is 24v, the CR-10/S is 12v. What temp are you printing at? For PETG you would want 245c, maybe higher. When did you download the 5015 parts cooling duct? I ask, because about a week ago, I made a major change to the duct exhaust port size (doubled) and angled the air flow to move any turbulence off the tip of the nozzle. The new duct has angled duct tips, the old duct has the tips point straight at the nozzle (and each other). If you have the old one, I would highly recommend you download and print the new one.
This petg, Amazon basic, has a suggested Max of 240c. I'm running it at 240. The printer is an ender 3, 24v. And I do have the previous duct design. I will reprint it.
I print the Amazon PETG between 250 and 260 depending on the color. Black 250, White 255 and blue ,red ,orange at 260. At 240 I had tons of layer separation and it kept freezing on the tip of the nozzle
Yep, every system is unique, so YMMV. Everyone should always test new rolls of filament (even from the same vendor) as there can and will be differences. This is why you may have noticed soooo many Benchy boats in photos and videos.
The Direct Drive Ender is sweeeeet !! Thank you for all your hard work
Thank you for choosing to use the Hero Me Gen2!
Since I installed the fanduct (OEM ) permanently ( before my mounting plate broke so it was hanging a little lower) I have underextrusion problems with petg from dasFilament. For me it looks like the air is hitting the nozzle if I use the hole in the middle. if I use the upper hole the fanduct is snug with my silicone sock. the lowest on the other hand puts the fanduct way under the nozzle.
The hole in the middle with the sagging was maybe in the perfect height. ( I actually don't know if it was really, maybe the upper hole is better. but I did't test it enough atm)
I cranked up the previously working temps from 230°C to 250°C and it looks like the underextrusion is gone. So my idea that the cooling duct is nmostly cooling the nozzle could be right...
In my experience 230c is too low for PETG. I have always used at least 245c for PETG. All the parts cooling ducts can be adjusted up or down with each mounting hole used because they are slotted. The best results are achieved this way. lower the hot-end so the nozzle tip touches the build plate. The bottom of the duct fangs should be no less that 1mm above the bed surface but no more than 2mm above the bed surface. The air should be flowing directly down at the nozzle tip.
Thanks for your reply. I will try adjusting the height based on your method with the lowest hole.
I know that 230°C is low in comparison, but it was the recommended temperature.
It also has no smell at this temperature, going up results to a swett smell.
I was a little perplexed because I printed a whole roll of it on 230°C without underextrusion.
I will post a make, the only thing I didn't used from your Remix was your BLtouch mount, because I prefer a stable mount that doesn't need adjustment per design.
Thank you for the great work! I would really like to do a remix of some parts and would like to ask, if you would be so kind to upload source files as STEP or Solidpart? Thank you very much in advance! Best wishes from Germany
I would if I could, but all my remix work to make the Gen2 series of Hero Me cooling systems is all done in TinkerCAD. It does not have STEP as an output option. The original design from Kelokera here on Thingiverse does have a source.f3d file. But there have been literally hundreds of changes and completely new parts created by me since October of last year. I can only output .obj or .stl files.
I was wanting to try and modify the base to use a Nimble and was hoping for a step file. I did find there is an option to send the file to Fusion 360 though, but it is in beta.
I tried it but said it couldn't send it at this time. Maybe you might have more luck. I'll keep trying though.
On there 'Send To' page in TinkerCad, they say this: "Only basic shapes and groups of basic shapes will transfer to Fusion 360". The Hero Me Gen2 base and cooler parts are anything but basic. I am going to have to learn Fusion 360 and leave TinkerCAD as I have pushed it as far as it will go. Attached is a STEP file version of the Hero Me Gen2 Base that I converted from STL in Fusion 360. This is untested.
I was able to get part of the base to import. Only the wire anchor part came through. I haven't use TinkerCad much, but I thought it only worked with basic shapes. I'll give the step file a test tonight after work. Thanks.
I just uploaded a slightly remixed version of your dual 5015 fan duct for placing buck converters onto it. Thank you for your extraordinary work!
Looks great! You should add some holes or slots to allow the right hand fan to pull air in. That wall is really going to impact the air flow you will get from the right hand fang duct.
Thanks for the quick reply. No problem at all, then I will just go on editing the stl files in solidworks.
I printed this last night only to be let down by Tevo. It looks like they updated the hot end on the 2018 Gold Tornado .
Yeah, sorry. I have not designed or tested the Hero Me Gen2 for use on the Tevo, as I do not have one, and did not have the specs on their hot-end until your photos now.
I will take a look and see if it is possible, but on first glance at you pictures, the heat sink for the Tevo hot-end is very wide and encroaches on the left support structure and mounting points of the Hero Me base. The left side of the Hero Me base would have to be redesigned for that heat sink. Possibly all of the optional ABL mount brackets would have to be redesigned as well.
First off, thank you! What a great setup. A ton of work must have gone into engineering this as well as maintaining all of the updates and different versions!
It disheartens me to read some of the comments by people, complaining about issues they've had, and just generally sounding unappreciative!
Which is why I actually had reservations about even bringing my questions here.. but I figured I could also use the opportunity to give praise to your design at the same time! I'm new to thingiverse (and 3d printing) is there a means of donating to thing owners? Because I would like to contribute to the future development and say thank$!
And as I mentioned, I also have a couple quick questions.
I am attempting to fit the CR10 model to my Ender 5 printer, and the differences I've found between the 2 printers are that they have slightly different X carriage mounting plates. The Ender 5s plate is wider, extending further to the right (when looking at it from the front). So the piece that's designed to "hook" around the right hand side of the CR10s plate, actually lands on top of the Ender 5's, as a matter of fact, on the E5 there is actually a vertical "slot" in almost the exact spot where the Hero Me extends rearward, so I was able to cut off of the Hero Me, everything that extended further than what actually touches the X plate, this left me with a nice flat surface of the Hero Me laying flush on the X plate (of the E5), and since the slot in the plate lined up with the spot where I cut the hooked section off of the Hero Me, I was able to drive 2 threadforming screws through the slot in the plate (in from the back side) and into the Hero Me, mounting it securely to the X carriage plate.. and the other (left) side, lined up perfectly with the 2 mounting holes where the original CR10/Ender 5 attached its metal box cover to.. with the exception of something slight modifications to both the Hero Me and the optional BLTouch mount, because JUST to the left of the lower mounting hole, Creality has another slot, which they use to slide the end of the belt through, so the belt end and it's crimped on ferrel protrude forward and would hit the bottom left corner of the Hero Me where it mounts to the X carriage. This was a simple enough fix as well however.. it just required grinding a "notch" out of the corner of the Hero Me to allow room for the belt end.
So, this is easy enough to retrofit onto an Ender 5 for those who want to do so! I would recommend, when printing the base mount, instead of printing it raised as it, to lower it in the Z direction on your bed, so the Portion that normally "hooks" around is completely below the print bed, effectively cutting it off, by omitting it from the print. This actually let's you print it with all of the surfaces that touch the X carriage actually on the bed, instead of slightly elevated to accommodate that hook section.
Finally, I'm not sure why, but for some reason the version with the single 5015 blower fan, one of the fans mounting holes doesn't line up. Im not sure if it's designed to only be mounted with a single bolt (I didn't notice anything in the notes about that), and lastly, I got mine completely mounted, and it wasn't until this point that I realized that the part cooling outlets we're too high, that we're actually blowing right on to the heat block. This was my fault, I wasn't aware that the fan shroud was made to be height adjustable, and since I did some modifications to get it together, I can't easily lower it.. I'll probably have to reprint it to make it work.
But always.. THANK you! I do hope you consider making an Ender 5 version some day, since there isn't much available for this printer yet, and it is a very minor change to make it fit!
Oh, my last question.. the outlet of the part cooling fan looks different than the thingiview, mine printed with a horizontal bar acrossed the opening, leaving outlet slits on the top and bottom, is this normal? Or should I have trimmed those up, leaving the outlet wide open as a single unobstructed hole?
Thank you so much again!
Wow, what a response!
First. Thank you for the feedback and that you like the Hero Me solution.
Second. There actually is a Hero Me Base version configured for the Ender 5 with a T mount for the slot (in the list of part for this Make is the file 'Hero_Me_BaseGen2c-_Ender_5.stl') but I do not have an Ender 5 to test against. I had just heard of the interference with the X gantry belt and will fix that in the next day or two and repost an updated version.
Third. the 5015 fans do only mount to the cooling ducts with one M3 screw and nut. The base of the fan fits snuggly into the duct in-port that it does not need a second screw mount. What you thought was a mismatch is actually just the screw mount point for the duct itself to the base.
Yes, the ducts are very adjustable. When the nozzle is touching the build surface, you want the exhaust ports of the fangs to be no less that 1mm above the bed, and most likely no more that 2mm above the bed, so that they point at the tip of the hot-end nozzle.
Forth. I am not quite sure of what happened in your print of the cooling duct. Please send me a picture of what happened, even if you have trimmed it already, show me where this horizontal bar is/was. The ducts should have no blockage facing the nozzle. There are vertical channel guides in the duct outlet ports to help focus the air at the right spot (so any turbulence from the two air flows crossing each other are away from the nozzle tip).
Fifth, if you would like to send a tip, you can do so here in Thingiverse. Simply click on my picture (that takes you to my profile) and then click Tip Designer in the left column. Thanks!
Okay, so I think my issue with the outlet was Simplify3d added supports across the vertical channel guides, making them look "important", I snipped them off and it looks correct now.
I couldn't believe there was an Ender 5 Hero me, and it was driving me crazy all day at work, but then I got home and checked it out, and quickly realized the reason I didn't see it originally was because I'm using an E3D V6, so I was working off those files. I wish there was a way I could merge the 2 together so I could use the T slot base, with the mount for the V6.. Oh well, I'll make mine work until the time if/when you make it happen.
Oh, and thanks for the info about the duct height as well, I've adjusted mine (and have taken out the unneeded second fan screw- lol) and it's a lot lower, and aimed right at the nozzle now, so thanks again for that!
Seems to be working great now, can't wait to get some hours on it so I can post some pics of things Ive made post hero-me! :-)
Dom, thank you very much for the Tip! I have added a version of the Hero Me E3D V6 Base for the Ender 5. It has a 'T' mount to fit in the slotted back plate as well as a notch for the belt mount.
I have also made significant improvements to all the parts cooling ducts, to increase air flow and reduce turbulence at the nozzle tip. I'm sorry but you are going to want to at least reprint the cooling duct with the new version I have posted.
Wow, thank you for the fast update! I wasn't expecting you to do it so quickly! I printed out both of the new parts right away, and I even broke out my new role of Polymaker transparent PETG to celebrate!
The updated air flow channels are GREAT, based on my first look after coming off the printer they're definitely more robust, they printed really nicely, and the interior channels look like they're going to produce a nice, smooth flow. I can't wait to install in on my printer! I'll post an update once I get it up and running.
Thanks again. This thing is a work of art!
He impreso la version dual 5015 y aunque realemente me encanta su diseño por lo compacto que es y la presionde aire que proporciona, por otro lado cuando esta imprimiendo da la sensación que lo que suelta es aire caliente por los conductos y esto puede que sea posible porque el ventilador de la izquierda lo que recoge es siempre aire caliente procedente del hotend, y por lo tanto es ese mismo el que expulsa por la boquilla. La verdad que no se si tendra solucion eso.
Hay 5015 ventiladores que miran hacia la otra dirección que se puede comprar, de modo que el ventilador está extrayendo aire a temperatura ambiente y no aire más caliente desde el extremo caliente.
There are 5015 fans that face the other direction that can be purchased, so that the fan is pulling in room temperature air and not hotter air from the hot-end.
I have looked for a 5015 fan that faces the other direction and could`t find one.
Could you post a link as to where i could get one.
I looked again for these, looks like I was wrong, what I found were listings that had the 5015 fan image mirrored. So I guess there aren't any. I and many users of dual 5015 fan ducts for the Hero Me have not had issues with air being too hot being pulled in from the side of the Hero Me base on the left.
Leyendo su sugerencia he buscado en aliexpress y la verdad es que no he podido encontrar ninguna version del 5015 con la entrada de aire por el lado izquierdo. De todas formas le agradezco su rápida respuesta.
I recently printed and installed the dual 5015 version. I believe the fang outlets are way too vertically narrow. It's only a fraction of the area of the outlets on the actual fans. I'm not getting the amount of cooling I would expect from two 5015 fans because of the restriction. I guess I need to learn Fusion 360 so I can modify them. The base also makes the right side stick out just a little because the back of it hits the screw heads on my Ender 3 stock heat sink. That is only a cosmetic issue though and I could fix it by trimming some plastic.
How long ago did you download the Hero Me Base file. It has been updated to not interfere with those screws, unless Creality has changed things again (the size of the heat sink or is using screws with larger heads). Can you send me a picture of the issue so I can fix the part and repost (I have time tonight).
I have been working on an update to the part cooling ducts to make the outlets larger and at a slight angle to keep the air flow at the nozzle tip high and any turbulence behind the nozzle. I expect to post the updated parts cooling fans in the next day or so (might get lucky and complete it tonight).
I downloaded yesterday. I've attached the best picture I could take; the printer is currently printing.
Sorry if my original comment sounded like I was complaining. I really appreciate your effort. Thank you.
Ok, I have updated the Hero Me Base to have room for screws with washers on the heat sink. I have also significantly modified the dual 5015 part cooling duct to have more than 2X the size of fang outlets before and also adjusted the air flow direction to move the turbulence off the tip of the nozzle. Please try these and let me know what you think. Thanks for the feedback.
Ok, so I'm printing the duct out now and there's a visible seem on the sides. I can see the seems is Meshmixer but they're barely visible as a flashing black line in Cura while rotating the model. It looks to only be cosmetic, just not sure if you're aware of it or not.
I'll get these printed in the next day or two. Thank you for the fast work!
No problem. It is just that I do a lot of updates based on feedback, and I don't want to overdo it if it has already been done, so knowing when you downloaded the parts is important info.
From your picture I see that there are washers on those screws. There were no washers on any of my Ender 3 heat sink mount screws. I think if you were to remove the washers there would be enough room with the part you have already printed.
I will edit the Hero Me base to have more space there now that I know that changes have been introduced by Creality again. That is a simple fix, I should have that update posted tonight.
if you want a stronger part, use this Epoxy, I have tried many different epoxys most dry yellow/amber - this one is clear, it sets very quick, so make small batches, make 4 batches one after another to complete small parts like this one. put on thin or it will run and not look as good. this is 6oz total so great for the price & makes parts stronger & can take more heat, it will add a gloss look also. I have found that paint sponges like these work better then a small horse hair paintbrush.
Small horsehair brushes:
( https://www.harborfreight.com/36-pc-12-in-horsehair-bristle-acid-shop-brushes-61880.html )
soft sponges allows a smooth finish if applied evenly & lightly. let dry repeat for maybe 2-3 coats. Use below for best results =
https://www.harborfreight.com/quick-setting-epoxy-68386.html & https://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-1-inch-to-4-inch-foam-brush-set-39991.html
I know you have linked to an LED wedge. Is there any chance a nicer wedge design can integrated into the design? The linked wedge is not a great design and doesn't fit in with the nice curves and design of the hero me.
Are you referring to the one that is included with this Hero Me? I don't 'link' to a wedge outside this make. Which cooling duct are you trying to use it with, and which way are you trying to mount it? It is not designed for any of the dual fan part cooling ducts. It is designed for the single 5015 part cooling duct and the OEM 4010 part cooling duct. A user requested an LED mount, and it was made for the single 5015 duct he was using.
It absolutely fits with these. Place the curved surface side up under the duct and the straight lip of the wedge facing forward. The curve matches the duct shape exactly. The part will fit snugly under the duct, use superglue or two screws to attach the wedge to the duct.
I made it to be both functional (hold the LED strip), hide the light from blasting forward when looking at the hot-end directly, and be as low profile as possible. I don't know how I could make it fit any nicer than that, give the functional design requirements.
Yep the one that is included. I don't mean to be negative about your work so far because it is epic. And I also read on how to fit the one included. I am using single 5015.
My comment was in relation to the design. Hero-me has a very integrated design feel to it. The LED wedge doesn't. How might you get that - well I wonder if the single duct could have another version where the LED strip is embedded with nicer curves/chamfers/fillets. So that it looks like it is part of an integrated design rather than something bolted/glued on.
Ok, undestood. I could make a duct with the LED mount built in, but you may want to take a look at Cloudkake's make of my Hero Me for CR-10S Pro with LEDs (what he did would work on any Hero Me: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:615883 It did not need any extra parts, and it is well hidden. I'd recommend doing what he did. He plans to write up his steps and also how he wired it. If you still want a Single 5015 cooling duct with the LED mount builtin and more streamlined, let me know.
Ahhh nice - I will give it a shot and post back. Looks like he has put the LED on the inside of the duct - I didn't think of that.
Sorry for late reply. Attached is photo with it sitting against the duct in-between the hot-end. You can see that there isn't enough light coming to the nozzle. Not sure how cloudkake is getting light to hit the nozzle.
Where does the little fan nose cone come from?
I am sorry, I wish people would read the summary info. The link to it is posted there. You are about the 15th person who has asked for that file.
In my summary it says:
Optionally, you can add any fan shroud of your choice as long as it fits in 40mm x 40mm. The one shown in my pictures can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1662879
Hi! In first thank you for this Hero Me remix from Kelokera. I'm beginning in 3D printing i'm interrested to improve the cooling system of my ender 3. I already printed the Bullseye but i want to be install the Hero Me because the desing are good, more compact, the airflow seems to be also powerfull and cable management are also better. But the problem is that i can not adjust the height because of eccentric screw. Have you had any other similar feedback? I would like to switch to dual fan 5015, but before printing this part I would like to know if I will encounter the same problem? If you have the magic solution thank you.
What eccentric screw are you referring to? If you are referring to clearance of the duct against the large nut and bolt holding the bottom wheel of the X gantry, that was resolved many weeks ago. How long ago did you download and print the Hero Me parts? If this is not what you are concerned with, please send me a picture of what you are having an issue with.
The Hero Me has been used by hundreds of Ender 3 owners over the past 6 months. The whole point of the Here Me cooling ducts is to let you set the height of the duct, that is why the vertical legs have slots, and the Hero Me body also has 3 (or more) screw holes to choose from when attaching the duct. so there is room for wide range of height adjustment.
Hi again! Thank you for your fast response, Yes i referring to the bolt holding the bottom wheel of X gantry. I download and print the file "Hero_Me_OEM_4010_duct_Gen2c.stl yesterday. I printed the file with Simplify3D in high resolution, 4 layers, 50% infill and 50mm/s speed) I removed the duct and back to the bullseye because the temperature has warped the duct, i will print the file again with this following settings: medium, 100% infill, 50mm/s speed and support from build platform. I will provide you a new picture. I think that for Hero Me dual 5015 duct there is no problem it seems more large. Thanks for your help.
The OEM fan duct had not had much updated since Kelokera first designed it. Attached is a Hero_Me_OEM_4010_duct_Gen2d.stl that has the space to clear the lower wheel nut on the gantry. The Here Me Dual 5015 is modified to clear that nut.
Do you have a silicone sock covering your hot-end? or just the paper and PTF tape that comes with the printer? I highly recommend that you add one if you don't have it already. If you want to print at 240c or higher and don't have a silicone insulating sock, you will need to print the part cooling duct with PETG to prevent warping over time.
For the past 6 + months I have had all my printer hot-ends (including V6 Volcanos) covered with silicone socks, and all my cooling ducts are printed in PLA and I have never had any warping or sagging in the ducts or other Hero Me parts
hey there mediaman! first, thanks for your hard work!
I printed the Hero_Me_OEM_4010_duct_Gen2d.stl last night and I also am having this issue with the wheel nut sticking out too far. I can use the top hole fine but then the ducts point at the nozzle instead of the filament., the middle hole is ok, but not great, it's still a little too high I think, but I can't use the bottom hole at all because the screw is jamming into the part where the fan screws go in. I'm including a picture so it's a bit more clear.
If you can, would you give the measurement of the distance from the bottom of the wheel nut to the build plate, when your hot-end nozzle is touching the build plate?
Here is an updated version that should give you the room you need to lower the duct.
Hmm. You have a larger transition gap (between the hot-end and the heat sink) than I have seen before. You want to have the bottom of the part cooling duct fangs to be no less that 1mm off the bed and no more that 2mm off the bed when the nozzle of the hot-end is touching the build plate. When you adjust the height of the duct to be in that range, if it still is hitting the wheel nut, then I will have to see if I can remove more material from where it is hitting without making that post too weak. Are you sure you don't want to upgrade to a 5015 fan? ;) I will work on the 4010 duct to make more room. let me know what you find.
Thank you for the update and tips!! It's good for me. Yes i've a silicone socks on my hotend.
How do you connect both 5015 to the positive/negative?
Like that? ( look at the file)
Yes in parallel, just as you have drawn it.
Will this work with the direct drive upgrade by Barasaba Innovations for the ender 3?
You will want the attached versions of the Hero Me base and the spacer file. This is my update (with my latest improvements) to Teaching Tech's remix to support the DD E3 from Barasaba Innovations. You will want to view his make for instructions.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3359578 and watch his video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omXgJT5V0D4&t=345s
Thank you for the quick response.
Do I still print this base with the X Gantry side down?
Yes, you will get the strongest part by doing that. if you print it upright the wire tower will not be strong and could snap off.
The base you posted above is the Gen2 not the Gen2c. Is there a reason why?
Sorry, my naming convention is throwing you off. It is correct. It is the most current part (has the updates of the Base Gen2c), but since this is the first version of the DD Base remix, I named it Gen2 (each part has its own version history).
The Base design you posted above has a vertical fan. The Gen2c has a tilted fan and looks like is has less mass.
The DD E3D direct drive option you have been asking about has space requirements to make it fit. Teaching Tech's remix changed the from fan to be vertical in order to allow the DD setup to attach to the E3D hot-end and clear the Hero Me base. The standard Hero Me Base Gen2c will not work with the DD E3D, that is why Teaching Tech made the remix. I have no other info about the DD E3D as I do not own one.
That answers my question. I liked the tiled fan design and was hoping I could use it but I now understand why I cannot.
When I printed the base I found a hole where one shouldn't be. I have included a layer view showing what appears to be a wall section to thin to print. Can this be fixed? It caused the part to break while removing supports.
You are correct. I missed a step in reinforcing the wire channel that I had done in the other updates. Here is a corrected version with the wall reinforced.
Thank you again for the quick response.
I decided to print a new base to go along with the recent duct update for the single 5015 blower. I also wanted to use some heat inserts, see heat-inserts.jpg, for the screw holes. While I was printing I noticed that a section of the tower narrows down to one 0.4mm line for about 16 layers. Could this create a weakness in the tower. I have included a screen capture, see DD_E3_Hero_Me_Base_Gen2b.png, of that area of the tower. It's the section where it narrows.
I buy quality sealed bearings 5015 fans (both 12v and 24v) from www.th3dstudio.com They are very quiet.
Here is a link to the Hero Me for the CR-10S Pro: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3433619
Ask and ye shall receive! ;) I am just putting the finishing touches on that very thing!
I get my high quality, quiet, seal bearings, 5015 fans (both 12v and 24v) from www.th3dstudio.com.
I will have the Hero Me for the CR-10S Pro posted in the next hour. It is untested, but designed from the mechanical drawing of the CR-10S Pro X Gantry. I do not have a CR-10S Pro, so I hope you or someone can test it for me.
Is there a way I could do the dual 5015 fans without having to do any soldering? because the blower fans do not have the same connectors as the stock fan.
Sure, this is how I do it.
No soldering at all.
any chance of a stock cr-10 with dual 4010 fans for cooling?
Not had a request for that combo before. I can get to it after other items that are in process now are completed. I can probably get it done this coming weekend.
That is fantastic. Let me know when file is ready to be printed. I am on mst time.
Hitting x stop bracket. Dial bracket that works with z stop, does not fit cutout, too far above bed.
Thanks for the great pics and measure references. I will remix that part based upon your feedback. I should be able to have this done this evening, tomorrow evening at the latest.
I am using a mechanical dial surface gauge. I interferes with the X stop. Need 6mm removed. Any chance of a remix of the Hero_Me_Dial_Mount_Bolt_Gen2?
I will investigate, the Dial mounts are new and remixed from others on Thingiverse to fit the Hero Me bracket. I don't have one of the dials to test with. Can you take a pic of the Dial Mount part and mark where the 6mm is impacting the X stop for you?
I printed up my HeroMe and also discovered the X fouling. I remixed your dial mount clip option to clear, placement of the gauge is as pictured. STL is what I came up with, gcode is what I'm using to do the levelling procedure on my Ender 3 Pro. Added a shot excluding the gauge too. I'm still on all the OEM hardware, so chose all the OEM options.
Use caution with that gcode, I'm pretty new to this. First stop point in gcode is for nozzle clearance using your preferred method, this is the point where gauge comes very close to the side of the bed for me, but is just clearing, perhaps safer to leave the dial out to make sure. Second stop is dial zeroing stop. From there code does a stop at back left, back right, front right, before doing another complete lap. Dial is then moved to center for a stop, before the carriage is moved out the way.
Edit: I didn't fully understand remixes, so I've done that at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3493290. I've also discovered your update.
Thanks for the fixed update to the Dial mount! I have added your remix to the Hero Me Cooling Systems collection: https://www.thingiverse.com/mediaman/collections/hero-me-cooling-systems
Would the Duel 5015 blower fan duct possibly fit on the original hero me base?
I am using Teaching techs modified Hero Me Base that was modified to fit a new direct drive baseplate.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3359578
Yes it should, if he has not modified the duct mount positions on the base (I doubt he did). The whole point is that the ducts and ABL options will fit any Hero Me base.
Got a question I am sick and tired printing the petsfang and failing
Could you make a picture of print orientation
And another question I have a laser for my cr10
Is there a possibility you share the model so I can add a laser mount or are you willing to do this for me
Looking forward to your reply
I can't help you with the Petsfang. That's not my 'Thing', go to the Petsfang Thingiverse page for help. All my parts for the Hero Me cooling system are presented in the orientation that they should be printed. All my models are available to tinker and edit in TinkerCAD. Check the Detail Summary for links.
Nice then I am gonna print this one seems a bit Easyer and nicer then the other fang, will post when I finish my print
any one have any suggestions for when the fan duct rides high? I have mine as low as the screw will allow and it is still set too high for proper cooling. Stock hot end. Stock fan.
How long ago did you download the Base file? I have in the past week updated the Base with additional mount holes for the part cooling ducts to be mounted in a wider range of heights (I've also updated the ducts as well) Check the posted updates in the Detail Summary for all that has been done in the past couple of weeks. If you don't want to reprint the base, you can use a drill with a 3/16 bit to create new mount holes lower in the channel of the Base (or an Xacto knife to 'drill' a lower hole on each side).
Hi! Can you give me a feedback what slicer settings need to tune for single 5015 blower setup, when I move from OEM duct? I have on OEM for PLA fan disabled for first 3 layers and fan speed min 80, max 100%.
I use Simplify3D. For the fan speed I set 0% for layer 1&2, 40% for layer 3, 75% for layer 4, 100% for layer 5 and up. But that is just my settings, I can't say that this is particularly 'optimized' or special in any way. I guess my basic rule is fan off for first 2 layers, then it could be 100% after that. Note that some 5015 fans won't take low voltage to start spinning. There is a setting in the firmware to kick it briefly to 100% and then back down to the lower percentage. Kind of a kick start.
OK, thanks. So basically setup the same as for stock fan I see. Can you please check what in Marlin firmware that setting name is?
FYI, The Marlin firmware I use is the TH3D Unified Firmware U1R2.7 (Marlin 1.1.9) available here: http://support.th3dstudio.com/support/solutions/articles/43000460446-th3d-unified-firmware-package
In that version the setting is called #fan_fix, but I looked up what marlin subroutine that calls and it refers to:
So you would want to enable (un-comment out) these two settings.
have a nice day,
First of all, thank you for your work. As soon as I got the output of the work, I started to install the hero me in ender 3 pro, I could not screw the fan into the screw holes at the bottom when mounting the 5015 fan. somehow I couldn't bring the fan to where there were holes. I extended the output with the help of a knife and sander for a long time, but I could not install it.
I wonder if this study is compatible with the ender 3 pro?
Thank you for your effort.
Yes, this should in fact be compatible with the Ender 3 Pro. It looks like Creality changed the point at which it bends the X gantry plate. I will be making the change recommended by Mr_Groch this evening and will post the fix as soon as possible. This change won't impact any other Creality CR/Ender printers and is an easy fix.
Thank you for your kindly reply. I will waiting your new design.
The revised Base STL has been posted.
Maybe you have similar problem as I. On my Ender 3 base wasn't properly aligned - it will mount, but not straight. And then there will be problem with munting duct - it will be always too high to the nozzle. The problem is X gantry plate and back rail of Hero Me base - it is hitting the bottom of mount plate. Resolution is to cut about 2-3mm here: https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/e7/e4/8f/60/1c/IMG_20190131_030811.jpg.
The revised STL has been posted.
I will be making the change you recommended this evening and will post the fix as soon as possible. This change won't impact any other Creality CR/Ender printers and is an easy fix.
I've noticed that it seems to be difficult to find 5015 fans that have their intakes on the other side. So far it appears that there is enough clear space for air to enter the fan on the inside, but it is definitely much more obstructed. Does anybody have any suggestions? Is it okay if both fans face the same way?
I've been finding that I am not getting any better cooling with two fans than I did with one, and was wondering if this could be part of the cause. I have a very small shift in the print part-way down the duct which may be messing up the air-flow, so I am reprinting it now, as that would be an easy fix
With air flow tests directly over a bowl of water the air from the left 5015 fan is on par with the right (the indent in the water is centered under the nozzle). Most users I have heard from actually only power the two 5015 fans to about 50-60% as that is sufficient to get great cooling (I've bridged 250mm with no drooping) and at the lowered speed they are whisper quiet. There are lots of poor quality 5015 fans out there, I get pre-tested, high quality, sealed bearing 5015 fans from www.th3dstudio.com.
I finally got the duct to print without shifting(the downstairs neighbours are renovating) and I am printing some abreviated temperature towers at different fan speeds to compare.
I suspect I will get better results when my silicon sock arrives, as well
Silicone socks are a must! Sounds like you are on the right track.
The silicon sock helps, but I am still getting less than ideal performance with the dual 5015. I am working on a modified version of the duct that mounts the fans at an angle leaning forwards. This should have two benefits, a straighter air path into the ducts, and a less obstructed airflow into the fan, especially on the side where the air intake is currently against the side of the base.
I am working in openscad, just because that's what I use, but it definitely complicates the process
Thanks for the update. Sorry you're not getting the results you had expected. I have not had this feed back from others (low airflow from the left duct), and my setups perform well. Please let me know how your mods workout, and post your remix if successful.
I'm not done yet, but I've got usable versions of your files imported into openscad, and have the ducts and air intakes as separate objects now. I spent the last week or two writing code to generate smooth paths for the duct segment joining them (I like to do things the hard way).
I am attaching a picture of my setup with the original in shadow outline. Actually generating the joining bit is next.
Although apparently my stuff is out of date now, I will have to get the updated version
Hmm my first reply was flagged for moderation. Here is basically what I wrote the first time:
Looks cool. Let me know when it is done and I'll add it to my collection of add-ons and mods of Hero Me that people have created: https://www.thingiverse.com/mediaman/collections/hero-me-cooling-systems
Looking at your pic, once the fans are added, that will put the weight further forward. This could be an issue, in that the front could droop. I have seen flex in that direction with my current parts. Tightening the screws has been enough, but this could be more of an issue with your mod. You may need to add bolt holes in the front guide posts in the duct (and then in the base you mount it to) to lock it in level front to back.
Another option (or in addition to the above) would be to increase the front channel height on the base and the height of the front guide bars on the duct. This is what I did on the Hero Me for the E3D V6 Volcano to give more vertical travel to adjust for the duct placement with the taller hot-end: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3370065
I think it's still flagged, gotta love auto-flagging...
I definitely need to update my stuff for your latest. Eventually I will have everything measured, and will be able to parameterise the entire system, which will make it much easier to customise, if I am clever enough it will even work in the customiser :-)
I will definitely look into adding bolts to the front mount, I don't know if it will be necessary yet. I've considered turning the fans a full 90 degrees, but I don't think there is any gain for any angle greater than what is required to straighten out the first bend
Cool! I look forward to seeing the finished version. Let me know when you post it so I can add it to my collection of Hero Me add-on and mods that others have made: https://www.thingiverse.com/mediaman/collections/hero-me-cooling-systems
Here is something I notice when looking at the image you posted. When the fans are added, that is going to put the bulk of the weight further out front. I have found even with my setup for that duct that there can be some twist/flex on the X axis (front to back). I have to be sure to tighten the rear bolts down.
To prevent drooping in the front (with all the motion and vibration of printing), you will likely need to add M2 or M3 bolt holes to the front two vertical guide bars. This would then require adding bolt holes to the front slots on the Base that the the duct is mounted.
Another option (or combine with the above) would be to increase the height of front channels on the base and the front guide bar height on the duct. Check out my E3D V6 Volcano version of the base and ducts ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3370065 ) I have increased the height of the front guide bars to deal with the vertical range needed for the Volcano hot-end. This could also help prevent any forward droop caused by the weight being forward.
Dual 5015 mount in PLA deformed at the cross bar due to the hot end heater cables. Tried it again with PETG and had better results but still a slight bend at the cross bar. This results in uneven distances to the nozzle. Can the cross bar be beefed up? I'll try to include a picture later tonight. Thanks.
BTW, I printed the Petsfang and used it for couple of weeks but the bulkiness of the fangs made it very difficult to get to the PTFE coupler. This Hero Me is much more compact and easier to work with. Thank you.
Added couple of shots of the cross member. This was printed 100% infill PETG.
This looks like you've printed an older version (10 day or more) of the base. Which version of the base did you print (how long ago did you download the STLs?), as it looks like your hot-end wiring in the channel is pushing the right hand fan over causing the bend in the crossbar. The currently posted base has a much larger wiring channel and reinforced tower to hold the wires, giving the room needed to not impact the fan, and not put pressure to bend the crossbar. Check the cable tower of your print against the design drawing on this page (or the attached pic). The there is much more support in the new part and more channel on the side.
Can I ask for one more picture, showing from below the hot-end positioning related to the cooling duct?
Good Sir, When I began to slice in Cura 3.6. I noticed that both of the lower screw threads from the hotend fan appear to be bleeding through the walls. I'm not sure if this problem is slicer specific or how it would render out in a print, but wanted to share with you first before I attempted a print.
Thanks for the question. This is by design. Some people use long bolts/screws, so this screw hole path is to allow it in case they choose a M3 bolt or other similar sized screw to mount the cooling fan that is longer than actually needed. This has no impact on the structural strength of the part.
Understood. Thanks for the reply!
What height should the duct be set to? So far, I am using it with the duct set one wrench-thickness above the nozzle tip. I've been having problems with curling in the print, so I am working out my temperature calibration again...
I have the bottom of the ducts between 1.6mm and 2mm above the bed when the hot-end nozzle is at layer 1 height (0.1mm to 0.28mm). What part cooling fan and duct are you using? FYI, while I provide the cooling duct for the OEM 4010 fan for backward compatibility to use just the fans and parts that come stock, I don't recommend that route.
My recommendation is to use a 5015 radial fan. If you are using the 4010 fan, be sure not to turn the fan on until layer 3 in order to get good adhesion (and this assumes you have your bed trammed and Z-offset set correctly). You should have no problems with PLA with the heated bed anywhere from 0c to 60c. PTEG needs the heated bed set to 70c, and ABS needs around 100c.
Can you include a picture for clarity to show bottom of nozzle to bottom of duct? Thanks
Here you go...
Hello Mediaman i printed this fanduct in pla and after a couple of prints the fan duct warped a little and almost touches the hot end.
got any suggestions/fix??
I have not had any problems related to fan duct warping, and you are the first to mention it to me. What hot-end are you using? How close is the duct to the hot-end? I do recommend that you use a silicone sock for the hot-end. Here are a couple pics. while the general recommendation is to use PETG, I have been using PLA for my cooling systems for several years.
I would not recommend printing in PLA if someone is printing with ABS. 100°C bed is enough to melt PLA ducts at first layer... I'm always printing printer parts with ABS.
Thanks for tge reply... In fact i do use a silicone sock and the hot end is the stock end that comes on creality ender 3... The right duct is spaced like 3..4 mms from the hot end sock. And the left duct is placed correctly like 8...9 mm from the sock (i have the 4010 stck fan version) .... Btw what ducts are you using? Mine doesn't have the holes on the tip of the duct. It will be awesome if i find the fix!
Got the same problem using PLA.
Try this one : The right duct is 3mm further to the right. With this, the hot end sock (and the noozle) are in the midle of both duct and let more space betwen the base and the 4010 fan for the wire.
That seem to solve the PLA warping of the right duct for me
Honestly I have never used the cooling duct for use with the stock OEM 4010 fan. That was part of the original design from Kelokera, to reuse the stock fans, but he quickly moved on to the 5015 radial fan. I have always used 5015 radial fans once I replaced the stock hot-end case with other cooling systems. The 4010 fan just does not output enough air. I expect you will have great results with a 5015 fan and the Hero Me cooling system. The pic is my standard setup on my Ender 3.
I want to try your remix for the dual blower design and just purchased 2x 24V radial blower fans but I have a few questions.
I'm using the stock ender cooling fan with Bullseye fan mod right now.
Could the dual blowers be too much cooling and cause adhesion issues?
And do I just wire the two blower fans in parallel with a capacitor each from the original stock fan cabling?
Thank you !! I'm very excited to use this mod if it lets me print at a more aggressive angle and require less supports.
I never cool the first two layers. When using dual 5015 radial fans, most folks set the max power at 50-60% and with that you get a lot more air, but it runs really quiet. I have run dual fans at 100% when I want to do long bridging (not that it requires 100% fan power). You wire them in parallel. Do you have an Ender 3 (which uses 24v) or do you have a CR-10 (which is 12v). If a CR-10, I don't think you can use the 24v fans as there will not be enough current for them to operate efficiently.
Thanks for replying :).
I'm using an ender 3. Did you wire in capacitors as well?
I heard there is a loud electrical whine when the fans are running at a lower % without it.
I don't really have that much knowledge on circuitry but I'm trying to research. Asking someone who's already done it is a great help!
Also silly question (This is the first proper mod I'm doing to my ender so I'm not super sure.)
Do I need to do any firmware changes or anything or do I just wire up the fans and change my settings to adjust the fan speed.
You do not need to do any firmware changes if you are not using an ABL sensor. Quality sealed bearings 5015 fans should be quiet at any speed. I don't use capacitors at all. If you've got a bad fan, I suggest you consider the fans available at www.th3dstudio.com (a small family run USA based business that is part of the maker community), they sell quality parts, all tested, and great customer service.
If you change your firmware settings to enable FAN_SOFT_PWM, you don't nee the capacitor
I think this Fanduct does not work with the stock Ender 3 fan. My prints have serious problems, I printed some Benchys for testing, adjusted the height of the duct between both oranges ones. The grey one is printed with the bullseye fanduct.
I ordered a 5015 fan and will test again if its really a fan problem. I like this fanduct, its as bulky as the Bullseye and has the better BLTouch mount.
Honestly I have never used the cooling duct for use with the stock OEM 4010 fan. That was part of the original design from Kelokera, to reuse the stock fans, but he quickly moved on to the 5015 radial fan. I have always used 5015 fans once I replaced the stock hot-end case with other cooling systems. Having said that, there are a lot of users who have had great results with the Hero OEM fan cooling duct, so I can't explain why you have the results you've seen. I expect you will have great results with a 5015 fan and the Hero Me cooling system.
Any chance of a Tornado version?
I don't own any Tevo products. If it is a clone of the Creality CR or Ender series it should just work. Otherwise, I would need pictures and measurements of X gantry mount points to see if any of my Hero Me remixes can be adapted.
Would this settup work for geeetech A10 printer?
Yes, as it is a clone of the Ender 3, and I believe the mount points on the X gantry are the same as the Ender 3, CR-10, etc.
thank you, and if i coudl ask, for what type of extruder os it suited? for regular CR-10 extruder? or for some other kind of clone?
This Hero Me version is for the Creality CR-10/S, Ender 3/Pro, and clones with the OEM hot-ends as well as the MicroSwiss all-metal hot-end. If you want one for the E3D V6 or E3D V6 Volcano (and clones),I have specific Hero Me remixes for those. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3291101 and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3370065
Can you show how to mount the led light part? Glue? Everything printed great btw!
Sorry, not really. I did the LED mount wedge by request. It will fit flush on the bottom of the fan duct, so super glue should work, or use the screw hole to mark the spots on the bottom of the duct where you would drill a 2.5mm hole to use M3 bolt to mount it.
There is an issue with the single 5015 pipes. There is an odd bridge in one of the channels blocking the airflow. Didn't have that on the original file. It is even visible in the slicer (see the yellow square in the attached image).
I noticed this while it was already printing since 1h so I have to cancel it now.
What slicer software are you using? I have not seen this issue in Cura or Simplify3D, but I will investigate as soon as you can let me know. I have had other reports of Slic3r having problems (that do not happen in Cura/S3D).
I confirm this issue on the slicer, though I printed the 5015 vents in another orientation (front side of the vents towards the print surface) in the past without any vent blocked.
I am using Simplify3D.
I will recheck, test, as repair as needed this evening. I always slice and print with the front face of the ducts down on the build plate. You will have less supports and a stronger print (especially for the wings that hold the 5015 fans in place). Have you tried that orientation?
Nope, I only tried printing once and I noticed that issue. I have time, I'll try that later, no prob. But anyways, thanks for all your work and your prompt reply. This is great to see you are already working on it. Keep it that way :))))
I have repaired the single 5015 pipes from what you saw in S3D. There are other improvements as well, all documented in the description update notes.
Great news, I'll give it a try when I have time.
Thanks for the work.
wow that's a ton of supports....i hope i will be able to get my piece out of these mess
In your slicer software you can reduce the density of the supports, and you can set the gap of the supports to make it easier to remove. If you print in the vertical orientation the wire tube retainer at the top will be weaker due to the slice orientation. Printing it with the back down makes the whole part stronger.
There is a more easy to print orientation. Maybe print it in the same orientation as when it is mounted on the hot-end.
In the slicer software you can reduce the density of the supports, and you can set the gap of the supports to make it easier to remove. If you print in the vertical orientation the wire tube retainer at the top will be weaker due to the slice orientation. Printing it with the back down makes the whole part stronger.
Printed but the finishing is awful.
The duct it is the 4th time i print but after few layer the supports are messing up with the duct and the print is failing.
i guess i will switch to the BullsEye
Thanks for your feedback. Sorry, you've had issues printing it, I can't control how supports are done within the part. I will document and post the Cura/S3D settings to use for supports that make it easy to print and remove the supports.
I'm about to print the stock 4010 duct; basically the 3 parts you said required printing. I'm using an Ender 3, totally stock, and Ultimaker Cura. What settings should I print with (support settings, infill, resolution etc.)
I was initially going to try 50% cubic infill with PLA, 4 walls, and supports everywhere with 60 degree angles. This estimates a roughly 3~ hour print time which isn't bad, but I don't want to print this more than I have to, and hopefully get it right the first time. Let me know your settings please!
Thanks for your help,
Oops, just realized you included the settings in your post, my bad haha.
Anyways, thanks for the model and I'll let you know how it goes!
I'm trying to print the gen 2 dual 5015 fan and I'm having some issues with missing layers in slic3r. The model looks fine but when you preview the layers on one side are missing. Anyone have any advice?
EDIT: I un-checked the support material box before the screenshot so it could be more visible
Ok, I replicated what you see in Slic3r with the new version, but in Cura 4 it slices fine. I have attached screen shots of both. I don't know why this is happening in Slic3r. I will test in Simplify3D and another slicer at home this evening. While it is possible that the problem is in my file, the left duct (from the front view) with the gaps (as seen in Slic3r) is a clone of the duct on the right, there is no difference (other than mirroring).