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Hi there, I am a bit confused (sorry still new to all this stuff). I have an Ender 5 and BL Touch.
Do I need the Base lock and also the BL Touch wing? Or the BL Touch wing replaces the need for the base lock?
I'm planning to use this with dual 5015 fans which I have ordered.
You print the ender5 base the dual 5015 blower the bltouch wing and the bltouch adj mount. The bltouchwing replaces the "lock" if you don't have an AutoBedLeveler. You will also need to slightly modify the bltouch win mount and the base mount to account for the belt clip. I used a jewelers file to carve out a small section for the belt clip to fit. Once you print it you will understand.
Gen3 base for Ender3 seems to be broken.
The base holes are too large for the screws from the fan ducts. It seems they used to take 2mm bolts. Trying to make the fan ducts take 3mm bolts would ruin the slot and the head would be in the way.
having the same problem as you used to be perfect in the older versions plz update if you can
I just got my Ender 3 Pro and I am having the same issues above as well as the 5015 blower mounting tabs are too thick to fit into the slots in the blower mount.
would you be so kind and share the cad files? need to adjust some stuff to be able to use it with my configuration
Looking for the fan silencer shown in the pictures in light blue for the hot end fan. Sure would appreciate it if anyone could post a link. Thank you!
I believe this what you're looking for: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1662879
will PLA+ resists in all the parts? dont have ABS
Wondering if you could add a top-down or overhead 3/4 view photo - I stopped using the Bullseye recently and went back to stock because I couldn't remove/replace the Bowden tube where it plugged into my hotend without taking apart the whole fan mount. Can't tell from your photos if it's possible to manipulate/replace the Bowden tube connection on an Ender 3 with the Hero Me mount still in place.
Trying to print the Hero_Me_Dual_5015_Duct_Gen3, and I have noticed in Cura there is a gap in the duct channels. Is this a slicer issue or a model issue, or is this by design? It looks solid in the windows "Print 3D" application, so not sure why cura would be showing a gap ?
Will there be an updated 4010 Duct that uses the M3s and has an opening that fits the new-style Blower fan?
I downloaded these files and they are incompatible. I cannot mount the BL touch adjustable mount. Is there a new mount for BLtouch with the light weight ducts? If I print the full size ducts will they fit?
I cut a small notch along the edge of the bltouch mount where its face meets the fan duct. This will work for me!
Hey @mediaman any update on the Gen 3 duct for the all-stock Ender 3? Or, if it's going to be a while, should I print and install the Gen 2 or the original? I am waiting on installing the BLTouch until I have the Hero Me ready to go, so just curious what you think.
P.S. I'll be sure to send some coffee your way for all your work!
Hi first of all thank you for all your great work!
There is not BLTouch wing for the Gen3a version and the version for the Gen2 wont fit....
This! Trying to get a dual version for BLTouch for CR-10!
Hey @mediaman for future versions of the Hero Me would it be possible to have both blowers facing outwards? I'd love to print the latest version as it looks so much better than the Petsfang but it seems like it will restrict the airflow with one blower. Is there a possibility of getting a new V3 part that supports this?
Any chance of an update to account for the change to the 4010 blower on the Ender 3 Pro? The tabs are different and do not fit in the 4010 duct.
Would also like to know if the 4010 duct will be updated. The 4010 gen2g stl is incompatible.
Having the same issue with 4010 blower tabs for regular Ender 3 (non-pro).
Trimming the inner support manually and I am not sure which side (or both sides) needs trimming.
Just found out this same error. Ender 3 Pro 4010 blower has tabs that don't fit the duct because they're thicker now.
did anyone maybe designed a baselock for a IR probe sensor?
thx in advance!
Helpful hint 2: We can all agree that you don't want supports inside your duct. It will be useless. But the duct should be printed in an orientation where some very steep overhangs will be unsupported by "touching buildplate" supports, so here's the saviour if you're gonna print in PETG: Tree supports. They support everything externally and don't generate inside. You're welcome.
Thx so much man. Been trying so hard to get this printed in a sturdy orientation for PLA and you just solved it.
You're very welcome :D
However, reading through my comment, it wasn't very well-phrased. You obviously still need to turn supports to "Touching buildplate" otherwise it'll just generate trees inside :p But the trees will support every external thing of the duct :D
i have the ender 5 with bltouch - microswiss hotend and stock fans and just arrived my Zesty nibble. does anyone have any mounting for zesty nibble to work with Hero Me Gen3;
A helpful hint on printing materials:
I printed this out of PLA. This is all well and good, but if you use an enclosure, I strongly suggest to NOT.
I had no issue for quite a while - but my country was just hit with a heat wave, so this increased the temperature inside my enclosure. Now my Hero Me looks like cheese sitting out in the sun.
So definitely print in PETG(or ABS) if you use an enclosure or plan on printing ABS
Where can I find this option in cura 4.0? - "For all the parts that do need supports, use "Touching Build Plate" only. You do not want supports inside the fan ducts or base."
Here :) It only shows up when you click "Generate supports", otherwise support settings are hidden.
If you don't have that, you need to go into settings and enable the setting
Hello. I've got the ender 3 pro. Is it only 40x10 version stock fan and bltouch? <I'll go with 3d touch from trianglelabs> There is no 40x20mm fan version? It would be better to install non stock 40x20mm fan :D The stock one is noisy ;/
@mediaman congrats on the remix. I just finished printing the original version and when I went to install it on my ender 3 pro noticed the cable arm passage is way too small to accommodate the 3 wires, there's no way I can install it now.
Does your remix have a bigger groove for the cables?
Frist off, thanks for the great work on this.
I have an Ender3, printed the HeroMe Base, Light weight 5015 ducts, BLTouch wing dual-fan wing, and mount. But it will not all work. The Wing is not big enough, and the 5015 duct hits the BL mount. Am I missing something?
I had this same issue. I edited the BL wing so it fist without changing the original offsets, I will get it uploaded later today. Did you have any issues with the lightweight fan ducts? the model has a couple small gaps in it, I fixed those as well, which I will also upload.
Did you fix the BL wing? I came across the same issue. Checked your thingiverse page, but the fixed BL Wing was not there?
Sorry, I got a resin printer last weekend and this totally slipped my mind. I just posted them. I hope they work out for you.
Thank you! Printing them now!
And the result is that it is perfect! Thank you!
When is the rest of the gen3 files coming out? It’s been almost a month since the last update...
I highly appreciate the amount of work that has gone into this project. However, I feel like the documentation is an absolute mess. Would love to see that improved.
First I want to say thank you for your great work. I am running your gen2 from stock and it change my live.
However I am now passing in direct drive using DD E3 by basaraba innovation.
I know that Teaching Tech did a mod to adapt your Hero Me to this kit.
I also see that you have the file in the folder.
However it is a gen2 base. Will you update the file to the Gen3?
Best regards and keep the great job
Is it possible you could upload a picture of the print orientation in a slicer? :D I have a hard time processing the instructions in my head, and I have seen various different ways when Googling
Opps... sorry I found the link to the mods
Will there be a version with a Creality Bondtech direct drive option?
I saw mentioned a little over a week ago that Ender 5 tweaked files were coming out soon. Anxiously awaiting these as I'm not happy with my current cooling setup. I've got a stock hot end, stock hot end cooler, with a 5015 blower fan. Once this is done I'd be very interested in printing out whatever files are necessary for this setup and giving it a shot.
After doing a test with the Fan Hero Me, I find that despite the large diameter of the channels air seems to be braking inside the ducts. So I decide to observe the bowels and I understand better why the air does not circulate so well. Indeed the designer has made an ingenious system to balance the flow of air right and left but suddenly the diameter of passage for air is divided by 3. :( See section in photo
Aprés avoir fait un essai avec le Fan Hero Me, je constate que malgré le gros diamètre des canaux l'air semble freiné à l intérieur des conduits. Je décide donc d observer les entrailles et je comprends mieux pourquoi l'air ne circule pas si bien que çà. En effet le concepteur à fait un système ingénieux pour équilibrer les flux d air droit et gauche mais du coup le diamètre de passage pour l'air est divisé par 3. :( Voir coupe en photo
a few issues with the Gen 3 parts for my ender 3 dual 5015 setup. the are gaps in the lightweight ducts, not to mention that the mount for the BLtouch is too close to the air duct, so it does not fit. I was able to correct the gaps in the duct in Tinkercad, so it looks like I will be doing the same for the BlTouch mount. Pitty it wasted my Carbon Fiber Pla though.
Whats the best tool to clean the tiny holes in the vent? The part with three holes on each side? I am at work and dont have theboart with me. I would include that if i did.
ender 3 what would be the best? What changes between the two models?
I would take Gen3 for compatibility reasons. Also you could try the lightweight dual 5015 ducts. Gonna print them now myself :)
What kind of M3 screws even have a head so small to fit into the holes. I have dozens of M3 screws at home but none fit. I ended up using only 1 screw on the left side, leaving the right side hanging. I'll be going back to the original design soon though.
So I believed I was having issues with this duct because as soon as I put it on I started getting horrible under extrusion. It turns out that I just had a clogged nozzle (which is weird because I had just changed it not long ago). After going through a rigorous cleaning process and putting everything back together I found that this duct actually works amazingly. If you read my comment from before then i'm sorry for the confusion but everything is great now.
Are all the ender 5 v3 files ready?
I've got ender3 pro, printed the Hero_Me_Base_for_CR-10s_and_Ender_3_Gen3a and Hero_Me_Dual_5015_Duct_Gen3 and want to 'connect' them.
Just wondering what screws should I use?
In your documentaion you wrote that I should use the screws from the stock-4010-blower but the mounting holes on the base are too big for the the "stock screws" of the creality blower but work for the mounting bracket of the dual-5015-blower. On the other hand I tried m3 Screws but both the holes of the base and the bracket were too small.
I sadly don't have any m2.5 screws on me right now to try.
Looks like there's an issue with the parts. The slots in the fan ducts are designed for m2 screws, but the holes in the base are designed for m3 screws. I had to glue my ducts into place. Hopefully the parts get fixed soon! Gen 2 did not have these issues.
It's designed for m3 screws. Try running a screw through the holes first to cut the thread, it will make your life easier. Alternatively if you have an m3 tap handy, use it to thread everything.
The slots in the fan duct are 2.3mm wide (Hero_Me_OEM_4010_Duct_gen2g). This is not designed for m3 screws. But the holes in the base are for m3 screws. While trying to drill the slots, this tiny part just broke. Had a really bad evening yesterday...
Imho the holes in the base should be smaller to fit the original m2 screws of the 4010 fan.
First of all, thanks for all of this. Love the mount and you clearly support it which is great.
I ran into an issue with the new Gen 3a Ender 3 Base. In orange you can see the Gen 3a, green is the Gen 2. Where it hooks around the carriage is noticeably slimmer and couldn't fit on my Ender 3.
hello, I just printed the gen 3 base for the ender 3, and I was wondering if any 4010 fan mount is there to download because I have read some comments on compatibility and I really want to know if anything works together or if I have to wait for your modification :) thanks!
I'm super keen to print this for my stock Ender 3. Should I hold off until the updates are done?
Yes, the Gen2 OEM duct doesn't fit the Gen3 base as some people reported here. The updates should be arriving in the next days. I'm eager to print them as well :)
These updates still haven't arrived?
I am also checking in. Based on other comments there's a new duct coming for stock Ender 3? Thank you all for your help.
Sorry for my bad english but i have a problem with the lightweight dual 5015 GEN3.
I have little hole with the 2 duck (look the picture).
Can it work properly or its better to print the basic dual 5015 GEN3 ?
Thank you !
Sorry to bring it down but if you want to cool your nozzle, then print this mod.
If you want to cool your parts, then wait for Gen 3 OEM 4010 duct or print some other version of Hero Me.
The Gen 2 OEM 4010 duct is not compatible with the Gen 3 base as stated by the author.
First of all, the screw holes in the Gen 3 base are for for M3 screws, while the slots in the Gen 2 duct are for M2 screws.
Sure, you can shave away some material and get M3 to fit, but still, the duct will get too high up and you will cool your nozzle.
When I get it as low as possible then the duct is like 2,5-3 mm above the bed while the nozzle is touching the bed.
If i switch to a lower hole on the base, then the duct is below the nozzle.
What hot-end type are you using? Creality OEM, E3D V6, Volcano, Micro Swiss, other?? Depending on which hot-end setup you have (or even if you have aftermarket nozzles that are taller) you may need the Gen3 cooling ducts. This is another design improvement of the Gen3 ducts, a larger amount of height adjustment for the ducts. The Gen3 ducts will have a total of 8mm of height adjustability. The longer mount pegs will also have mount holes sized for M3 screws. This should cover even the tallest hot-ends that are compatible with the Creality/clone printers. These will be posted this week. I appreciate your patience.
I'm using a totally stock Ender 3 Pro (Not a clone) with the Creality OEM hot-end. The nozzle is also the one that came with the printer.
So I'm still standing with my comment above that the Gen 2 duct is definitely not compatible with the Gen 3 base on the stock Ender 3 with OEM fans, hot-end and nozzle.
I think the statement that it is should be removed so no more people waste filament and 5+ hours of print time.
Same issue on a two week old ender 3 pro.
Just finished printing and was having trouble getting the parts cooling fan to fit into the female slot. I am in the same boat as you. The little flange piece that is inside the duct that the older fan keyed into is not the same as on the 2019 Ender 3 Pro (and guessing non Pro).
I took a dremel to these nubs and it seems to fit ok. But yes the alignment on the duct with the screw holes given are m3 vs the stock m2 screws but i ended up making it work and the height was ok for me.
these are the most confusing thing ive tryed to print lol. can you please help me? i have a stock cr 10 and want the dual fan bl touch. i have the 3 fans and the sensor but cant figure out what the heck files to print. haveing some cooling issues so hope this can help. will send a tip for your help and item
I'd be glad to help. What model/type of part cooling fans are you going to use (4010, 5015, 5020, 4020)? That will tell me which part you need for those two fans. You will start with the Hero Me Base Gen3. Which BLTouch mount to use is also based on which cooling fans you will use. Get me that info and I will give you a part list. Note that there are some new Gen3 cooling ducts that will be posted in the next couple of days, that you will want to wait for.
5015, i saw i was supposed to print that base and i did. printed the gen 3 base 5015. but thats where im stuck
i am trying to install the dual fan 5015 option with the ezabl bracket, the clip on the end of the belt seems to be in the way, how do i resolve this?
I assume from your description of the issue with the belt clip that you are referring to an Ender 5. I am still working on the mods for Ender 5 printers. I hope to have all the Ender 5 specific mods completed and posted this week.
My apologies, I usually post in an ender 5 Facebook group so didn’t think to mention that here, wow that’s awesome, I’ll keep an eye out
Hey mediaman or anyone else who knows!
Sorry to noob out on you, but are all of the parts for the Ender 3 (stock) in the correct orientation to print already? If not, could you please show the correct orientation. I tried to understand your description but noobed out!
Thanks in advance!
Yes, all the Hero Me parts for an Ender 3, using all stock parts (4010 radial fan and 4010 axial fan), are in the correct orientation for printing. Note that there will be a new Gen3 version of the single 4010 OEM cooling duct posted later this week. The Gen2 version of the cooling duct will work fine on the Gen3 Hero Me base. Print with supports from the build plate only, and you don't have to over do it on supports. Turn any setting for 'detect thin walls' OFF.
Just reread your response.....I'll wait for the new cooling duct!
Thanks for the quick reply.
I did get the Gen 3 base, so loaded and ready to go in the next couple of days.
Appreciate the design, updates and help.
I cant appreciate your effort enough, however, i have a few questions:
Yes there will be a Gen3 single 5015 part cooling duct. Slightly delayed, but in progress, and I will post as soon as it is done. No, I don't do part cooling ducts for radial fans, not that it couldn't be done, but because they don't 'fit' in the compact design concept of the Hero Me cooling system. Quality sealed bearing 5015 radial fans are available. I buy mine from TH3DStudio.com here: https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/5015-high-speed-sealed-bearing-fan/ They have both 12v and 24v versions.
I've got an issue with the 4010 OEM duct, which arose already before (on another part). While slicing with PrusaSlicer, a single bridge gets created, which blocks a whole channel. I've played around with various settings, but it won't go away. Any fixes for that?
Also is there any estimate for the gen3 OEM duct? :)
Try a different slicer like Cura.
Well, the estimate for gen3 OEM duct is "within the next 24 hours", 5 days ago based on the comments below.
I have never used Cura and am still fairly new to 3D-printing (got my printer four days ago). I might need to look into it, but there should be a reason for these things to happen. Afaik, it was filed as an issue on github once, but resolved. Also another person had this issue already (see Jan 25, 2019) in yet another slicer. Does anyone know of involved settings which can be tuned to avoid these bridges to be created?
Or maybe I'll just wait another "24 hours" until the gen3 OEM duct get's released :) Gonna print the bed supports in the meantime.
Sorry guys, sometimes life gets in the way of best intentions. I am still working on these and will post as I get them done. The good news is that all Gen2 ducts can work on all Gen1, Gen2, and Gen3 Hero Me bases (using M3 screws). Gen3 ducts will work with all Gen3 bases and many, if not all, Gen1 & Gen2 Hero Me base setups. The difference in this case (for backwards compatibility) is the longer mount pegs and M3 screw mount sizes of the Gen3 ducts.
Don't worry, we all should be able to wait some days :) Appreciate your work!
Cura is pretty simple so give it a go. I'm using Cura 4.1.0 on windows 10. Layer height 0.12 and 50% infill. In Cura the bridge is not there and I'm actually printing it right now since the american 24 hours was to long ;) I'm half way through the print and it looks nice.
Are the new Ender 5 parts coming soon or should I download what’s posted? I’m just not exactly sure what pieces I need For 5015 single fan and EZABL Pro 18mm lol
Revised and new Gen3 parts for Ender 5 will be posted later this week. Thanks for your patience.
Last night I printed all the parts for the Ender 5 single OEM fan version of Hero Me. It seems it would be impossible to mount the duct to the base. The base clearly has M3 screw holes, but the slot in the duct that line up have extremely small holes, which seem to be M2. Even if I was to force them in, there would be almost no clearance for the heads of the bolts. Will this be changed in Gen3 of the duct? Also, the base lock seems like it is completely impossible to install without fully removing the mounting plate from the gantry. It's possible I'm doing this totally wrong but I can't find a way to make work.
And a final note, it seems the ender 5 is now using different screws, because the 2 screws that hold the OEM shroud in place are far too short (and the heads are too wide) to be reused for any part of this project. Just a heads up!
Revised and new Gen3 parts for Ender 5 will be posted later this week. Thanks for your patience. All the Hero Me Gen3 parts are standardizing on the use of M3 screws. I can't keep making derivatives for every time Creality decides to change the screws they use for a production run. The only exception to this is for the 4010 radial fans that use M2 screws to hold the fan in place.
Mine lets you use 3mm screws in the slot no problem. Are you guessing or have you actually tried it?
Also, don't reuse the OEM screws on the lock, get new 3mm screws for that.
I am using the dual 5015 fan and I think it is too much fan. I am testing getting rid off stringing and found the only way to do so is fans at 10%... Is anyone else experiencing this? Or is this the intention, because at 10% fan speed they are certainly quiet. I think the single 5015 may be all that is needed.
When using dual 5015 fans, you can absolutely run the speeds as low as 15% My uses range in the 20%-50% power. This is the point of the dual fan setups, to get enough air through the ducts and still be silent! I will use as much as 50% power (per fan) when doing long bridges. Many times I have done 150mm bridges or more with no sagging! The filament is cooled immediately so that you can get perfect overhangs and bridges.
The instructions for a stock Ender 3 say I need "Hero Me Base Lock Gen3.stl". There is not a file listed with that name, there is "Hero_Me_Base_Lock_Ender_5_Gen3.stl" Is that what I want? I was not sure since it said Ender 5.
You need: HM_Base_Lock_No_ABL_Gen3.stl
I know I’m being particularly lazy, just out of hospital and head is all fuzzy. Can you post a link to the CR10 Mini fan duct please.
This make is compatible with the CR-10 Mini. It uses the same parts as the CR-10 and the Ender 3. There are not any of my parts that are specific to the CR-10 Mini. Just don't use any of the parts here that do specifically mention Ender 5.
I'm using Parametric_Hero_Me_Dual_5015_Duct
I was told that there is a continuation of this cooling.
tell me there are real changes that you should print new models that are located here
That's great that your using ACWest's duct! What is new here for you is the updated Hero Me Gen3 Base. His ducts will be updated with longer mount pegs to take advantage of the longer channels to give a broader range of height control (for more types of hot-ends that are taller), as well as add strength to the duct when mounted on the base (now there are mount screw points on the front pegs). If you are happy with what you have now, then wait for the next iteration.
English is not my native language - I can not understand some things. Are you planning to release a new modification (Gen4) in the near future? If so, about when and what's new ?.
Regarding what I use: prints better than on stock Ender 3 PRO - but a person should strive for perfection :)
To use separate 5015 gen3 air ducts, is it necessary to print the Gen3 base or is the old one also suitable?
Apologies if this is a stupid question, but is there gonna be a new version of the single 5015 duct in the following days, and if so what's the advantages over its previous iteration.
No stupid questions. Yes, there will be a new Gen3 version of the single 5015 duct. The major change is a complete redesign of the duct structure and tip position for greatly improved air flow across the nozzle tip and reduced turbulence. Also the mount pegs are being lengthened to allow for more height adjustments (for various hot-end & nozzle lengths) as well as two additional mounting points for strength.
Wow, thanks for the speedy reply, the amount of work you do for this community is just, phenomenal.
Anyways, do you have any idea of when it will be released, as I'm torn between just reprinting Gen2 or waiting for the newer variant, My current Gen2 has multiple flaws (My fault trying to rush the print, not the design) and has knocked off a few prints off the bed and as well I've had issues with cooling not working anywhere near as well as it should.
For my ender 3 I need to have the duct that low for it to not cool the nozzle but the printed plastic. Because it's so low, the frontal rail is not inserted enough so there is a lot of play in the X axis, and the screws don't fit the holes. Tomorrow I will edit the stl and make the rails longer and see if I will be able to make it work...
A revised STL for the OEM 4010 part cooling duct (with longer mount pegs, and other improvements) will be posted in the next 24 hours.
Will the gen 3 update be compatible with the stock screws or will i need to purchase additional hardware? Ender 3, 4020 hotend fan, standard blower. Thanks!
You will need four M3 X 8mm screws to mount any of the part cooling ducts to the Hero Me Gen3 base. The screws that held the 4010 fan onto the OEM case can be reused to hold the fan to the cooling duct. The screws that held the heat sink fan to the OEM case can be reused to hold that fan to the front of the Hero Me Gen3 base. All M3 screws (except the two that hold the OEM 4010 fan in place).
@mediaman, can you please post a version with support included, for example, meshmixer version with support at the base included. I tired printing this various times, supports aren't working for me.
What specific parts are you having trouble with? I do not intend to create new STLs with supports for all the parts that could use supports as different printer setups handle supports differently. 1. I do not have meshmixer. 2. Supports are only needed from the build plate (never internally to the parts). 3. The parts cooling duct should be printed with the front face of the duct facing down on the build plate. 4. The Hero Me base should be printed with the back (that is flush with the X gantry when mounted) should be facing down on the build plate. 5. Support settings should be minimal. Heavy supports are not needed.
The Basaraba direct drive kit I received about a week ago isn't quite compatible with the dual-5015 ducts. If you consider the square heatsink fan to be "center", the extruder motor is shifted left about a centimeter. This is just enough to collide with the left fan's "wing", so I needed to clip about 1mm off the top (right above the screw hole). In addition, the 5015 blower on that side collides with the motor as well, and there's no easy fix there. Measuring it is a bit tricky, but I think if the left blower mount were shifted either down 2-3mm or left about 12mm, it'd fit. It seems like down is the easier move, though it'd squish the ductwork even more.
I am using the Teaching Tech's refreshed base (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3585243) but I don't think that's the source of the problem; there's still room to lower the ducts a couple mm, but then they are below the nozzle.
I've attached a couple pictures that I think explain the issue.
I'm going to give a remix a try, another Basaraba user appears to have had success with this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3481256
Please note and understand, the Hero Me was designed and released well before the DD E3 kit came into existence, and Basaraba had no knowledge of the Hero Me (that I am aware of). So it is natural that there may be compatibility issues.
No worries! I know my setup is an edge case, I just wanted to provide as much info as I could.
e2p2 and I have been collaborating together on the base refinements. His is PRE Gen3 (kind of Gen2.5) there are additional changes since his F360 version was posted. I am also working with ACWest, his redesigned ducts are also part of the Gen3 refresh. The Hero Me Gen3 for the DD E3 Basaraba kit will be posted in the next day or two. I am currently getting it finished to have the same updates as the standard Gen3 Hero Me bases.
Hero Me OEM 4010 duct - Gen2f.stl has this been retired already, couldnt see it in the files
A replacement STL for the OEM 4010 duct will be posted in the next couple days. I am moving all parts to standardize on using M3 screws (except for the two that hold the 4010 fan itself).
if so what 3 files do i now need for reusing stock parts and screws, thank you in advance
I have to first say thank you so much for your work here. every update just gets better and better. I too have a problem with the mounting of ducts to the base. Every time i either cant get the ducts to tighten down or the peg mounts split. No matter the orientation or print settings.I feel as BoothyBoothy said. The peg seems better for an m2, and the base an m3 bolt. I have tried the exacto knife method for the slot, yet the head still seems to big for the peg and splits it. I was also wondering if you could make the 5015 lightweight dual setup with the extra clearance on the rear left peg like you did for n0where as i have a clearance issue on the gantry carriage bolt as he did.
Thank you again for your time and incredible work.
It may depend on the type and brand of filament you are using. I have printed dozens of these in both PLA and PETG, and I have always trimmed the parts after printing with an Xacto blade and not had any splits or breaks occur on the mount pegs. There have been tens of thousands of downloads and at least a couple thousand sets printed and installed. I have only had a very few people including you and BoothyBoothy mention an issue of the mount pegs and M3 screws. Having said that, I will look at changing the mount peg slots to be wider (for M3 screws) but not have any recess to increase strength. I will post an update in the next day or two. Thanks. for the feedback.
Apologies in advance if this as already been asked. The Ender 5 base has much larger fixing holes than the other bases? The stock bolts that came with the machine go straight through and do not retain anything. It appears that they are meant for a M3 bolt, Is there a specific reason for this ? A M3 fits nice and snug in the base hole but will not go through the slot in the fan duct. Am I missing something?
Also does the whole x carriage have to be removed to fit the Ender 5 version, it appears so ? Thanks Boothy
All the Hero Me base and other parts are all now set for using M3 screws. The slots are purposely tight in the parts cooling ducts to keep them strong and not break. M3 screws can be threaded through the slots of the cooling duct mount pegs and into the base. An Xacto knife can be used to widen the slots as needed. The whole X carriage does not have to be removed for the Ender 5 printer as the Hero Me Ender 5 base Gen3 version no longer has a tongue that protrudes the slot in the back plate. It has a separate lock file that can optionally be used to secure the base from behind. The holes for M3 screws should line up above and below the X gantry 2020 aluminum crossbar.
Thanks for your response, surely making the slots tight when the slot housing is quite brittle(due to the print orientation) anyway does not automatically make them strong, it just puts more strain on what is quite a focused stress point? Has the boss\clearance in all the part fan ducts been increased in size to accept a larger bolt? I have printed out a base and used a M3 bolt to test this afternoon and I can confirm that the head of the M3 bolt being larger and having less counter sink conflicts with the seating of the 4010 fan fixing. I probably have had some crossover with your latest update so will check regarding the Gen 3 update. The part I downloaded\printed 4 days ago had much smaller holes (1.7mm dia.), does not work well with a M3 bolt and conflicts with the 4010 fan. Again I will check the revisions and look at the revised Ender 5 Base. Best wishes and many thanks, Boothy
It may depend on the type and brand of filament you are using. I have printed dozens of these in both PLA and PETG, and I have always trimmed the parts after printing with an Xacto blade and not had any splits or breaks occur on the mount pegs. There have been tens of thousands of downloads and at least a couple thousand sets printed and installed. I have only had a very few people including you and PushingPlastic mention an issue of the mount pegs and M3 screws. Having said that, I will look at changing the mount peg slots to be wider (for M3 screws) but not have any recess to increase strength. I will post an update in the next day or two. Thanks. for the feedback.
Clearly there has bee some overlap\ cross over from downloading your previous files. I did have 2 lots of mount pegs break in very slowing printed PETG with the previous stock screw mount\peg. The issue with fan confliction occurs when using M3 pan heads, a M3 machine hex head with a larger counter sink would be better. I note the revised base with dual fixing peg which I think is much better for reducing overall strain. I will revise my remix to suit when I have a minute. I will also reprint the Ender 5 base to test, I prefer your redesign of the remix if that makes sense for its flatness to the build plate. Many Thanks again Boothy
I'm new at this and a bit overwhelmed at the moment. LOL I have stock Ender 5, I also have the EZABL Pro 18mm to install. I'm going to get a single 5015 24v fan from TH3D on the way. Can you please tell me exactly what I need to download and print to get this on my machine? I want to be able to see the print nozzel so I can watch the first layer.
Thanks for your hard work.
Based upon some early feedback on the Ender 5 version of the Hero Me Gen3, I am working on some tweaks to make things easier. Please be patient with me, as it will be a couple of days to get things sorted out (and tested), then I can give you the list with specific versions (by full filename) for you to print out.
thanks for the reply, I would greatly appreciate that. My fan and screws are out for delivery so I will get on that as soon a you make your updates. I will need the 5015 single duct and the probe mount for the EZABL Pro. 18mm Hopefully this will fix any bridging problems, I won't be happy until I can print a perfect benchy LOL
I went to slice the dual 5015 duct and noticed a defect in the ducts. has anyone else found these splits?
If you tell Cura to ignore thin walls this will not be an issue when printing that part.
i just noticed a gen 3 dual 5015 was added. ill try that one.
Yes, the Gen3 Dual 5015 duct is completely redesigned.
Is the gen 3 single 5015 coming very soon or should I just use the gen 2?
A Gen3 version of the single 5015 parts cooling duct is coming soon (next day or so).
Thank you for all of your hard work. Been using your design since the purchase of my Ender 3. Wanting to upgrade to the dual 5015 from the current single and wonder if anyone had a wiring diagram for the extra fan. Do I need two 12V or two 24V. Currently running one.
Simply wire them in parallel. Red to Red, and Black to Black. As your Ender 3 is a 24v system you will want two 24v sealed bearing 5015 radial fans. There is plenty of power to drive two fans from the one fan power port.
Thank you for your awesome work!
I found out that when slicing the OEM_4010_Duct_gen2g in Cura 4.0 one of the two ducts would be somewhat "separated" from the rest of the model, as if the Mesh had a gap there.
I've had this issue before on one of my projects and the source of the problem was that the part consisted of 2 Bodies. After combining the 2 Bodies to one I could export the mesh and it would slice perfectly. Could that be the case here too?
Yes, I am aware. If you have your setting correct in Cura or S3D, they will print fine with no separation. But, in any case this cooling duct will likely be retired and replaced (very soon) with a single duct version if you really want to reuse the 4010 fan. I only made the dual duct for the 4010 because so many people asked for it (later many would write back complaining about the performance). The 4010 fan does not output enough air to properly drive two ducts. I recommend using 5015 radial fans.
That makes alot of sense - and thanks alot for the Gen3 updates! I really like the new mounting holes on the base!
I printed the Gen 3 base and noticed that the newly designed wire-tower intersects a part of the hotend fan mounting surface. There's now a little gap between fan and base when the fan is aligned with the mounting holes.
A fix for this is coming tomorrow. Thanks for pointing it out!
Just finished printing a V3 Setup. One thing I noticed is that the front duct mounts could be a little longer. They are currently too short to have both the rear and the front in the lower position. And on the highest position the front top is blocked also. This is for the V3 dual ender 5015
Here are a couple screen shots to help you with this. In these graphics, the bottom of the cooling duct tips are 1.2mm above the build plate when the nozzle is at layer one height of 0.2mm
Thank you for these! I seem to also be running into a slight fit issue which might be result from my printer being slightly different. Here are some shots. The left bolt holding the bearing that connects to the Ender 3 pros rail interferes with the duct being able to come all the way down. Also on this printer it looks like I need to be on the lowest setting to even come close to the duct being low enough to be aligned with the nozzle. It needed to be as low as it could go on v2 also. Is it possible that this hotend bracket is slightly different on my printer?
My setup is new (2 weeksn old) an Ender 3 Pro w/ Micro Swiss hotend.
Edit: Let me know if you want me to measure anything.
OK, I see what's gong on. Can you raise your X gantry to the highest Z position and take a picture looking up from underneath so that I can see how much material I need to remove from that back rail below the rear left mount peg. Any mm measurements would be extra helpful. I can edit this quickly.
OK, here are some pictures. I tried to include some measurements. Even if All this fits, I will still be cutting it close on if it can go low enough. Let me know if you need more!
Here are two versions of the dual 5015 ducts that have been tweaked to handle your taller Micro Swiss hot-end. There are two different duct tip layouts and two different mount peg setups. Let me know which you prefer of each option. If you want the combo that is not on the same duct, II can swap the setups. They both have extra clearance for bottom wheel nut to let you lower the ducts as far as you need (I believe). Let me know what you think.
Ok! got them both printed. The mount Peg modification on the duct with the outlet split (A?) fits a little better around the wheel nut. But both seem to fit OK, the one on B seems to fit a little closer. I'll attach a photo of the distance from the print bed, looks to be ~3-4mm. I'm not sure if Its just me, but now that I have everything printed it and actually went to screw them together, it looks like the mounting brackets seem to be made for a size M2 bolt , but the holes on the gen3 base seem to want a M3. I've attached the differences between the M2 and M3 bolts that I have. Also, If this is getting annoying, feel free to tell me to bugger off.
Edit: I can't find the gcode that I printed the V3 ender base from. So Its possible I printed something wrong.
I'll print these both tonight and let ya know how it goes!
Wow, These are great! But since you mention you're worried that you won't be able to get the cooling ducts low enough, I need one more measurement. I believe your hot-end is taller than most. Please provide me with the height of your Micro Swiss, from nozzle tip to the flat top of the heat sync (don't include the bowden tube mount). Thanks! I will work on this now.
Sorry, I was AFK. Looks like I'm getting 56.81mm from the top to the tip of the nozzle. Its prob 56.8. Its hard to get a good reading with the couplers on. I don't have extra or I'd remove them
Wow. I found a 3D model of a Micro Swiss hot-end that is much taller than the OEM hot-end, but it is only 53mm tall. I will check what if anything else I need to do, or will the two I sent work with a 56mm tall hot-end.
Ok... Now mount it. You will find that you have over 3mm of height adjustment. The bottom of the cooling duct tips should be between 1mm and 2mm above the print bed surface when the nozzle is touching the build plate. You don't want the duct tips lower than the nozzle, and you don't want the duct tips blowing on the hot-end aluminum block. I set my duct tips to be between 1.2mm and 1.4mm above the build plate.
Thanks again for all your work on the project! Some questions:
Also just got a direct drive upgrade for my Ender 3 so I'll be mashing Refresh Page waiting for that gen 3 DD base :)
Here is a version where the crossbar is moved to the top. This gives you the hot-end visibility and the extra strength of a crossbar.
Thanks for choosing the Hero Me cooling system!
To your first question, I had not thought of that, but yes with the front pegs now having screw mounts, it is possible to remove the crossbar. It was easy to prototype, the files are attached. I would leave it to you to test print them and report back how it holds up while printing. ;) Note that with only two points of contact (mount) I think there will be a lot of strain on the mount pegs. I suggest that you get a 40mm threaded tube to go between the two M3 screw mounts for the tops of the 5015 fans to act as a crossbar. This gives you the clear visibility on the hot-end and some added strength to deal with rapid X movements that will otherwise stress the mount pegs.
To your second question, you may want to look at ACWest's Hero Me Dual 5015 cooling ducts. I think (the way I interpret what you mean by 'flipped around so the exhaust goes straight') that his cooling duct does what you want. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3481256 If not, give me a drawing (crude is fine) of what you are describing.
I will work on the Hero Me Gen3 for DD in the next couple of days. Stay tuned.
Thanks so much for the detailed reply! I've been using that parametric duct for a few weeks now and it performs great, but I was wondering why no one has just flipped the fans around for dual ducts just to move them closer to the exhaust. I attached a napkin drawing
Ask and ye shall receive! Here are Hero Me Franken-Right and Hero Me Franken-Left 5015 cooling ducts!
Amazing! I can't wait to try these out! Will report back with results/photos
UPDATE: Attached a photo test fitting to my gen2. The nozzle visibility is fantastic! I am so excited about how cool it turned out. Of course, the EZABL mount was a casualty XD
Glad you like it. There is a EZABL mount for dual ducts. If that is what you had already printed let me know. If not download the other wider offset mount for the EZABL.
Great idea to split the left and right side up! saves weight as well.
Might I suggest you add these separate files instead of the combined STL (your comment below here)? As they are positioned in there, they are very hard to print because of large overhangs that can't be supported without internal supports. When on their back, they print a lot easier. Especially with 'conical supports' in Cura enabled
I will split them into two STLs and repost. I don't use Cura (I'm and Simplify3D fan). I prefer to print the 'wings' flat on the build plate to get the best strength from that orientation. I then use limited supports in required spots to get the over hangs printed clean. I keep forgetting that not everyone has a Hero Me setup to print more Hero Me parts. Very little support is needed. I can get 150mm bridges with zero sag when printing with good slicer settings and a Hero Me cooling setup.
Ok... Here is your Hero Me Frankenstein Dual 5015 Duct. Let me know how it works!? Huh, after I spent a couple hours working on this, I re-read your message, I I believe now you meant to have both fans flipped! Well, this way they both get clear air (facing out).
This is a great project! I am so happy this merged with ACWest's dual 5015s. I literally JUST printed all of these as v2 (and ACWest nozzle). Time to print them again! I would also second making the fan mount through-hole on the fan fins a little thicker / longer. They strip pretty easily and need a nut on the other end if you are taking it apart a few times. I was going to suggest screws and longer adjustments when connecting to the base, but you beat me to it! Yes!
I had always intended to have people us ~18mm M3 screws and a nuts to hold the 5015 fans at the top. I can make the tube up there a little longer, but then there is the flex needed to get the fan seated and then the tube to fit in the fan's mount fin. So it can't be much longer.
For the Gen 3 single 5015 fan model, can you make the part where the air comes out a little longer towards the back? I have noticed that the cooling seems to be distributed more towards the front of the nozzle.
I don't know if I'm explaining it well but basically if I print long overhangs, I do notice that if the bridging is going from the front of the print bed towards the back I get better prints than if the bridging is being printed from the back towards the front.
There will be a new Gen3 version of the single 5015 fan duct that will have completely revised ducting to the tips that correct for this perceived issue. The current ducts with the forward angled tips create a low pressure zone behind the nozzle that pulls air forward towards the nozzle tip from the back side (the new ones will do this also for that matter but from the other direction, they will just be centered more to eliminate the perceived mis-position).
When will the Hero Me OEM 4010 duct - Gen2f.stl" be converted to gen 3? and also, will i need to reprint the base or can I already print the bease while I wait for the new duct?
In the next day or two the 4010 duct will be posted as a Gen3. The Gen3 base is getting other minor tweaks, but not because of this duct. You can print it now or wait for the update this week.
On the Bltouch, I see the holder is printed in the traditional way, with the logo facing outwards (that's where the wires come out and go into the wire guide of the holder).
We would get better results if it was located with the logo facing inwards, as the internal circuit board would be further away from the magnets of the fan (when using dual fans) which would give more consistent bed levelling results. I had this issue with another makers fan duct I tried. As soon as I turned it around, the problems were fixed.
So could you make the Bltouch guide with the wire guide on the left, rather than the right, please.
I will add this to my list of requested tweaks.There is a version of the BLTouch mount that has an additional 4-5mm of space (basically the whole mount is shifted to the left to give more room for the wires.
I literally printed this out just over a day ago (Gen 2), and today we have Gen 3!! Typical.
I can see one change that already seems like a good idea, nd that's the slot in the other tab. The Gen 2 I fitted seems a little wobbly in that area. The extra slot/mounting hole would have sorted that out.
I printed the dual 40mm fan duct, but the OEM part cooling fans don't fit. it's too narrow.
@mediaman Is it possible to have the BLTouch baseplate that the adjustable piece is attached to have it wrap around the side of the metal plate so it comes in contact with the microswitch a little sooner? I have bent the metal tab of the microswitch out so it is able to reach and engage the microswitch but even with that it shifts the fan ducts when it bumps in to the stepper motor. I have the dual 5015 duct. It would just be nice to not have to bend the tab out so much. I feel like it needs to be bent more but afraid it might break off. Thanks in advance.
I think my last comment died in moderation.
Which parts do I need to print for a 5015 dual fan setup and BLTouch at the moment ? Some of the files mentioned in the description no longer seem to exist
The files are all there. For the Dual 5015 cooling duct and a BLTouch ABL sensor, you will want the following:
Thanks - so it looks like the base is now a single part - I was confused because I was seeing 2 in some instructions. All good thanks :D
This may be a dumb question, but does this duct prevent the Ender 3 hotend fan from blow on the part? Like, right now I can completely disable the part cooling fan on my Ender 3 and there will still be air blowing on the filament/part from the fan that cools the hotend.
The hot-end heat sink fan is on 100% all the time. The Hero Me Base Gen2 fits pretty snug around the hot-end assembly. There will be some air that spills down from above, but it is too diffused and split in different directions to not have any affect on the nozzle or the part being printed.
Hi, i've printed this and i've noticed that when the duct is all the way up, (like my photo) the duct is almost pointing directly at the nozzle. I don't know if that's weird because watching the video from "Teaching Tech" he recommends it to be slightly lower. But when I lower the duct 1 notch, the problem is with really big prints like 210x210 the duct will hit the clips that's holding my glass bed in place.
Anyone face this problem too? or am i doing this wrong?
The duct is meant to be adjusted to each setup. It is NOT meant to be pushed to the top. The correct setting for your setup (any setup) is to have the bottom of the cooling duct tips to be between 1.0mm and 2.0mm above the bed surface when the nozzle tip is touching the bed. The typical optimum is between 1.2mm and 1.4mm, but yours may be different. It depends on the size of the hot-end and the height of the nozzle tip. From your photo, you have your duct mounted too high. The slots in the duct mount peg and holes in the sides of the base allow for a very wide height adjustment, and by small amounts.
but there are only 3 sets of holes for the ducts, so how do i go about doing minute adjustments?
Look at the mount pegs on any of the part cooling ducts, there are tall slots (not holes) for the screws, this allows you to adjust the duct up and down for any of the mount holes you choose in the base. Complete adjustability.
Hey, just FYI the EZABL mount for dual 5015 fans doesn't quite fit on an Ender 3. The ring touches the housing before the limit switch gets depressed. I tried to get a pic in case you don't have an Ender 3 to test on.
Edit: I filed the ring down a bit, then the chamfer on the back was hitting the screws on the limit switch so I had to file the chamfer into a notch. Now it works.
Thanks, I do have an Ender 3 and it worked on mine, but Creality is often changing the tolerances on their builds. I will add this to my to-do list to refine that (give it more room) so that it does not hit.
Do you've a design where the blower is exactly in the middle of the two air ducts? thing is for air to flow evenly through both ducts there has to be a symmetry on design otherwise duct design becomes complex.
No, but the symetry is built-in. The channel inside the single fan cooling duct has the same air flow distance path for both sides. If you load the duct into a slicer and preview the slices, you will see that the right hand duct has a sculpted S bend in it to make that air path longer to match the left.
Howdy everyone. I figured I would post this here as there wasn't a lot of information about installing the Hero Me Gen 2 on the Ender 5 out there. It isn’t exactly a direct drop-in replacement, but it isn’t too hard to install either!
First, you have to take your hot end off the gantry. The hot end itself does not have to be disassembled. I read that someone did this, but it isn't necessary. Just take out the bowden tube and unscrew it from the gantry.
Second, you have to remove the bottom wheel from the gantry.
Third, you slide the base into place. It should slot into place without any trouble. If you have a sensor, this is when you would install it. If you're using a sensor, you will have to remove some plastic to make room for where the x-axis belt connects with the gantry. In the pictures I included in my "make" post you can see where I clipped out some plastic for this purpose.
Fourth, you insert your hot end and screw it back in by putting your screw driver or Alan key through the fan cover. I had to clip two of the fins inside the fan cover to make room for this maneuver. It doesn't matter aesthetically as the fan covers it anyway.
I read somewhere that someone had to shave down a bit of one of the 5015 fans to make them fit. I did not encounter this problem. Both fans snapped into place without trouble. Indeed, I don't even have them screwed down. The fit is pretty snug.
I think that’s about it! Wasn’t too hard; took maybe 30 minutes total not including wiring up the fans. I posted lots of pictures from different angles to hopefully help others! There wasn’t a lot of information out there for doing this on the Ender 5.
I am a 3D printer starter.
Question about "Marlin firmware offsets for ABL".
Is it the way you have to manually upload your Marlin firmware to Arduino?
Or is it possible to turn the dial only on the printer's LCD window?
Please let me know if you have a specific configuration tutorial about "Marlin firmware offsets for ABL".
There are no options to set this offset in the LCD window in any version that I know of. These are set in the Marlin configuration.h file before compiling and uploading the firmware to the printer. There are many Marlin config tutorials on the web and on YouTube to help with that (not my area of expertise). I have heard that it is possible to change the offset in the starting gcode of any print file (but I have not tried that).
@mediaman problem with duct models.
I had initially printed the dual 5015 duct, but when I went to install it I discovered that even with the stock 40x10 hotend fan, the hotend fan almost completely covers the intake for the left 5015... no use carrying the extra weight of a fan that isn't doing anything, not to mention the uneven part cooling this will cause.
After discovering that I printed the single 5015 duct. However, it doesn't fit with the fan on it using the Ender 5 base. The single fan duct is shorter in Y (as installed) than the dual duct is, and this causes the back of the 5015 to interfere with the X-axis belt crimp. See attached pictures of model comparison and how it sits on the machine.
The single fan duct must be lengthened in that direction for it to work at all.
For those of you concerned about printing the ducts with the overhangs high up in the print...
I printed the dual 5015 duct with Cura's experimental tree supports and support set to "touching buildplate" as @mediaman advises. The support structure stays only on the buildplate, but branches out to hit the overhangs (like a tree, as one might imagine)... see the blue in attached pic. Came out great, support was a bit difficult to start removing but once a couple areas broke away the rest of it came out easily in one big chunk.
I printed the 5015 mount for 2 blowers and it seems to curl on the side where my screen is on my ender 3! twice now whats going on its ruining my prints especially with sharper corners and itll do it only on that side! it curls up towards the nozzle, guessing it blows air at the other side messing up the cooling! HELP ME PLEASE!
What hot-end do you have: OEM, E3D, MicroSwiss? Do you have a silicone sock on the hot-end or is it bare metal, or with paper&tape? For all 3D printed ducts, you really must use a silicone sock to keep the heat from affecting the cooling duct tips. If you do use a silicone sock, then how is your dual 5015 mount positioned vertically? The bottom of the cooling duct tips should be between 1mm and 2mm above the build plate (this will vary based upon the type and size of nozzle you have). I have mine set to between 1.2mm and 1.4mm.
Then check to see if the nozzle and hot-end are centered between the two duct tips. If the right side duct tip is closer to the hot-end than the left this also could cause what is happening.
The Hero Me Gen2 cooling system has been downloaded and used ten's of thousands of times with very few issues. I am always working to improve them when I get useful feedback. Your feedback is important to help improve the system.
For me to know more and provide better help (or to make corrections in the STL as Creality has changed the setup over time) I would need you to post a couple of close up pictures of your setup and the ducts in relation to the hot-end.
I have the OEM hot end and it came with a silicone sock from creality. I had the duck tip at about 1.5mm from the bed with the nozzle on the bed. There shouldnt be a reason for the tips to be closer on one side that the other, it uses the stock holes, I followed the way to install it like on the link on this page and watched a youtube video to be sure. Whats the best way for me to post pictures? Also finding replies besides the email is a pain!
Hi, number, type and size of screws please
For what combination of fans? If you are going to simply repurpose your stock fans, you can re-use the case screws to mount the base to the gantry, use two screws from the 4010 fan to remount the 4010 fan to the cooling duct, and use the other two screws to mount the cooing duct to the base. If you have one of the newer Hero Me Gen2 bases, you will need two M3 x 8mm screws to mount the cooling duct to the base, the screws will self tap into the base holes, no nuts are needed on the backside these screws.
I intend to print your design for dual 5015 fans. On the drawings I see many screws AND nuts...
Hey I sadly couldn't find a solution in te comments or the internet. I try to install the single 5015 but the wires pushing to strongly at the back of the fan so it can't run smoothly... Does someone hays an idea? That are just the hot end wire. The wires from the fans are above that point. Thank you!
What printer and hot-end are you using, the wire channel of the Hero Me Gen2 base is more than large enough for the wires from most all hot-ends and give plenty of clearance for the 5015 fan (check out any of the many photos from the makes that are posted). Please post photo(s) of the issue you are having so I can understand what may be happening.
Thank you for replying! Now it is ok. I widened the lower channel. The heater cables are to stiff and were poking the fan. It is the stock Ender 3 hot end.
For amateur noob person like I, is any tutorial or clear assembly instructions as to how to put all together on the ender 3? Im printing the 3 parts you said, but I can not find anywhere as to how assemble all once all printed,
Here are two YouTube videos that will help you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHQKr-LgvfI and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPvLKSClShc&t=1s
I'm sorry if I'm missing this somewhere, but what hardware do I use to connect the duct to the base? I can't seem to find a screw that will fit the slot and also thread into the hole on the other side...
The newer Hero Me Gen2 bases cooling duct mount holes are sized for M3 x 8mm screws. The screws will self tap into the holes no need for nuts on the back.
For ender 5 base, this part is fragile. It is snap off before I test print. Is there a way to print it stronger?
When I install the base, I need to take off the whole hot end because it need to slide in from bottom and it stuck the heater wire if not take it off first.
Is it a good Idea to make it in 2 pieces, hooked from side and use 2 nut to lock to the base? Wh
Sorry for my bad design, I just start to learn TinkerCAD :P Just for an idea.
Nice idea. I had not thought about that type of solution. I do not have an Ender 5 to test against. My concern for your design is would it hold the right side of the base tight enough to the back gantry plate. Depending on how you print your wrapper bracket, the two ends that clip over the gantry are also very small size that could snap or break away under vibration or stress. You can change the strength of the back clip on the Hero Me Gen2 for Ender 5 by changing the orientation of the STL on the bed by 90 degrees to get the layers to go horizontal rather that with the thin strip. The part won't snap off when printed in that orientation.
I decide to change to use 2 nuts for fixing, there is enough space between metal plate and gantry and easy to access. Lets see if I can find 8mm M3 nut
Great idea! When you've got it mounted and tested, please post your remix, as there are many Ender 5 users who want to use the Hero Me Gen2 cooling systems. Thanks!
I have found a problem with the single 5015 duct. please let me know if I'm doing something wrong or using the wrong file, but when I print the single 5015 duct, it doesn't fit my fan diameter. The fan fits perfectly in the dual 5015 duct, but not this single 5015. I loaded both up in Cura and got a side by side comparison. The blue highlighted part is the single 5015, and you'l notice it is significantly shorter than the dual 5015 duct. Can you please help me to figure out how to correct this?
See screen shot for how the 5015 fan is mounted. If this is not the issue you are having, please describe otherwise, include a photo of where the issue is, and what specific STL part you are having the problem with.
I suggest redownloading the STL file, or more likely double check that you're printing it at the original 100% scale. All of the cooling ducts have been printed and tested to fit the Hero Me Gen2 base AND the 5015 fans. There are some rare 5015 fans that are wider (15.8mm) than the specification for a 5015 fan. I have created the ducts to work with fans that are manufactured to spec (15mm wide).
I have the same issue as @wdrake3. I tried two brands of 5015 fans, both don't fit the single fan version of the duct in the same way. I measured my fans and verified that they are 15mm not 15.8mm.
I guess I'll just jump to a dual fan solution since I now have two fans lol, hopefully that will fit properly for me.
Thanks, that clears it up, I somehow missed your first post of the Single_5015_fan_mounts.png. It threw me was that the dual fan duct had both screw holes on the 5015 fan line up, while the single fan one did not.
For posterity, the two parts that had me confused were Hero_Me_Dual_5015_Duct_Gen2g.stl and Hero_Me_Single_5015_Duct_Gen2e.stl. I've attached a different overlay of the two STLs I did in Cura that (to me) shows more clearly the difference. Neither part was scaled, they were only positioned to overlap. This it shows clearly that the single and dual 5015 fan ducts have different dimensions for the two holes in question, which is by design. I'm a bit curious though why the design is that way.
In any case, thanks again for all your work!
From the very beginning (a year ago) the original Hero Me designer (Kelokera) created the 5015 single and described in his make that only one M3 screw was needed because the bottom lip of the duct air intake will hold the fan in place on the other side. When I designed the first dual 5015 fan duct for the Hero Me, the fans had to be moved forward to allow the left fan to get enough air on the intake. It was by chance that I moved it the right amount forward for the fan's back mount hole to line up. There is no way to properly afix a M3 screw through that hole and have it hold in the rear mount peg. That slot is only for mounting the fan duct to the Hero Me base. Sorry for the confusion.
Thank you. I reckon I assumed the fan would mount the same as the dual. I appreciate you showing me this.
Well done! Best looking duct out there!
Is 1.4mm the optimal height adjustment? If it varies is there a faster method than trial and error?? TT used a water dish for the bullseye test but his results were mostly inconclusive.
I printed two of these with the same gcode, the first one with the stock cooling fans and then another with the dual 4010 fans installed but my parts look identical. Droop and stringing in the same spots. I am wondering if my airflow is not in the sweet spot. Got any tips? Are there any before and after pics?
I have never recommended using the OEM 4010 fans. The ducts for the 4010 were created for several users who kept asking for a cooling duct for a 4010 fan. The 4010 fans simply do not push enough air across the nozzle, it will not get enough air over to the second duct. I recommend using 5015 (sealed bearings) radial fans or larger. you can run these at lower speeds, get more air across the nozzle tip and have a quieter cooling solution all in one. The height to set the bottom of the cooling duct tips will depend on the type and height of the nozzle you have in your hot-end. This is why I give a range of 1mm to 2mm. I set mine at 1.2mm to 1.4mm above the bed.
Alrighty...so can anyone tell me how you get the base parts clamped around the top of the hot end without snapping? This is the second base I have snapped trying to get the heatsink clamped :(
If you have downloaded and printed the most current Hero Me Gen2 base, you can slide the base down over the hot-end from above, or fully disassemble the hot-end as wdrake3 has suggested. Here are links to two videos that shows you the assembly process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHQKr-LgvfI and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPvLKSClShc&t=1s
It helps to know what printer your using, but either way, try and dissemble the entire hotend from the gantry, then once you get the base in place, go through the front of the hotend fan duct to screw the hotend back onto the gantry.
I have ran into an issue. The bolt on my Ender 3 X-carriage (for the bottom wheel) is interfering with the installation of the duct, causing it go be to far down or to far up
Which cooling duct are you having the problem with?? I can't help if I don't know which part you have an issue with. All the parts have been printed hundreds of times and tested with many iterations of Ender 3s with no issues. That is not to say you don't have an issue. Please also take a couple of pictures to show me what is happening.
your bottom wheel not touch the rail? try this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0uxK_uRyjQ (at 5:44)
Hi Mediaman, I'm still an amateur at electronics & modding 3D printers, if I do the dual 5015 fans, what do I do in regards to connecting them to the Ender 3 mainboard?
Thanks for the link TaMoNe - this is just what I'm after.
Anyone who has slapped this onto an Ender 5 have any tips or tricks. I’ve read that it’s a bit trickier than putting it on the Ender 3.
I did. not too bad once you get it figured out. Dissemble the entire hotend from the gantry, then once you get the base in place, go through the front of the hotend fan duct to screw the hotend back onto the gantry.
i think tthe cross disturbs the fan’s breath and make more noise
but nice work
Thanks, but you might check if you have your mounting screws tightened down too much. I have found if I back off the screws just a bit, any vibration noise goes away.
Just tried changing the orientation! Worked great until about 1/3rd of the way through ?? Has anyone else had any issues with the g code ? Or printing the base with the 5015 double fans ??
It may be your slicer or the SD card you are using. The STLs are good. The slicer you use creates the gcode, so different slicers will create different gcode files. SD cards from Creality have also been known to have corrupt memory issues. Try a different SD card. These parts have all been tested with CURA and Simplify3D. I have not tested Slic3R or other lesser known slicers.
Hey, would it be too much to ask for a version, where the part cooling on one side has the OEM 4010 and on the other side a 5015?
I do not recommend the OEM 4010 fan. It does not push enough air. I have only made cooling ducts for the 4010 because of so many requests to be able to reuse the stock parts. I do not provide support for the 4010. I recommend 5015 radial fans (with sealed bearings) or larger.
Hi again, I just now checked all my slicer settings and if my extruder is clean and there all ok ! Its like the fault is in the g coad because at random points of the print the printer moves up to high per layer which results in a missed layer and then the print just comes apart when done !
I assure you there is nothing wrong with the designed model. thousands of people have printed this with no issues. you either have a corrupted sd card or slicer issue.. try using a different sd. or change your slicer. if you're reluctant to change slicers try moving the part to a different area of your bed and re slice.. the error is on you not the model.
Thanks for the advice, using a different slicer and fresh as! Works great now !! Legand
Thanks for your advice i will try both a new ad and use a different slicer ? Much appreciated
I have tried to print both the base and the 5015 twin air ducts ! But can get me e3 to print a workable print ? No matter how i tune my printer it misses a layer everytime at several different layer heights, it's very frustrating because yours is the only fan duct i like ??? Can you help me out and offer and trouble shooting advice
The STL files are fine. The gcode is created by the slicer software you use. The issue is either bad slicer software, or possibly a bad SD card. Creality has had issues with the SD cards having corrupt memory. Try a different slicer, and/or try a different SD card.
Hello, I want to test Hero in a different way. Instead of the Bl-Touch I would like to put a radial fan in the same direction as the X axis. Is it possible?
I won't be doing a design like that. It would be too un-balanced, as well as harder to get the air properly split between the two sides of the cooling ducts.
I understood, but thanks for the attention! I was in need of something that my 5015 did not stay horizontal with the X-axis frame, Bond Tech style
Looking at your design I think the overhang will effect the balance of the hot end. This can make a big difference in your prints, weight and balance matter, ask any anyone with a direct drive configuration. Just a thought but you may want to test.
I understood, thank you very much for the clarifications
I just want to add to the thank you's for being so active and continually working on keeping this evolving. I printed the original and in the process of printing the 2nd gen which is much improved, not to mention I printed the original with a completely stock Ender 3 Pro. Prints are so much cleaner and more consistent and the finished products are turning out great. I upgraded to dual 5015's and can't wait to get it all mounted up. Thank you very much again.
You're very welcome. Thanks for the kind words and for choosing the Hero Me Gen2!
Sorry for the probably dumb question, but I'm a bit confused about which parts I need to print. I have a stock Ender 3, the only difference being I'm going to be installing a 40x20mm Noctua fan in the hot-end. There's so many various files here I'm not sure which ones I need..
No problem, for a fully stock Ender-3 (and no ABL) you will want to print the following STL files:
This will reuse your existing OEM fans with the Hero Me Gen2. Be sure to put a silicone sock on the hot-end for use with PLA parts (PETG recommended) for the cooling system.
I really REALLY wish to like this, as I like the overall design. However, since installing this I've been unable to get even one proper print, using stock fans on my Ender 3.
After doing a bit of trying to figure out why, then I believe I've come to the conclusion that the exhaust/vent direction of the hotend cooling fan isn't exactly perfect.
With an infrared thermal tool I've noticed that the nozzle goes from ~200c to about ~140-150c with the fan turned on (also ended up 'killing' 2-3 nozzles). Which I believe is my issue. This is after adjusting the part both up and down - down to the very minimum - where it's barely above the build plate. No changes. Fan on for just a few moments makes the nozzle temp plummet.
Fan speed has been played with as well. Part has been printed several times, with different plastics and heats, in order to try and rule out faulty prints.
Never had these issues with something like the Petsfang/Bullseye.
I'm hoping the 5015 fan I've ordered, and the part printed for that (Hero Me Gen2 still) will take care of some of the issues I've been having though, as I really do like the idea of this one.
--Oh, there's also a small weird line by the nozzle - which still seems to work fine though, no air leaks, just looks weird. The screw holes are kind of dodgy, and I've had to glue them back on after reinstalling the part.
Swapped back to the Bullseye today, and all the issues I've had with the Hero Me Gen2 for the last week seems to have vanished.
I wonder if it's just the vent design / the vent design with stock Ender 3 hardware. Is a shame, I really do like the idea / compact design.
Sorry to hear you had issues. Without photos or measurements, I can't comment very much or know what to respond with or even attempt to fix. The part cooling fan speed is controllable so that if in your situation the nozzle is being over cooled by the ducts you would want to greatly lower the fan speed.
The 3D printers coming from Creality and other vendors have such wide variances in build fit, tolerances, and component versions such that it is impossible to make one set of parts that will work in every case. That's why there are so many different cooling options being developed. There are thousands of happy Hero Me Gen 2 users out there (as there are for the Bullseye). I am glad that you found a solution that works for you and your setup.
Please correct me if i'm wrong. (my duct is getting warped for 3 times now)
I'm using the stock fans.
The stock fan should be blowing air onto the hot end right? (unlike the stock cooling where the fan is blowing away from the hot end)
So - the sticker of the fan should not be visible? (it's pointing towards the hot end)
Air should be blown across the heat sync cooling fins. The stock fans are very cheap. Most people doing this type of upgrade replace the fans with sealed bearing versions (and often upgrade to 5015 radial fans). If your stock cooling was pulling air from the hot-end box. the fan was mounted wrong to start with. The sticker on the fan should face the hot-end with air being pushed across the fins.
Could this be fixed? I have printed the part twice now, the oem fan duct, for single fan and this area of the print ends up looking bad, with a small hole in that area, it is mostly cosmetic but results in a bad appearance and requires trimming around the mess to get the fan to fit in next to the hole snug. I saw your other comments, regarding the seam for the one duct as well, so I thought maybe id mention this and see if you could fix it while you where taking a look. I know zero about 3d modeling so maybe this one just cant be fixed, I dunno.
I have some PETG coming to print the duct again, because all 3 times I have printed, they have warped and they are as low as they will go from the hot end. even with the silicone sock. Hopefully this PETG will help
I will add this to my to-do backlog. As most users are switching to 5015 fans, that has been where my focus is. I am out of the country until the end of May, so I can look into this in June.
i put the fan shroud but it start making a lot of noise. is that right?
How tight are the screws? The fan shroud (for the heat sync fan) is not my design. I provide a link to it for convenience. If you tighten them too much then the fan can be noisy. Also the quality of the fan makes a difference. The OEM fan is very cheap. I recommend that you get sealed bearing fans.
I have printed and mounted this upgrade now, I went for the dual 5015 and Bltouch. There must be improvements when it comes to construction though because some parts are very weak, mine broke so I must now print another one.
Note: I printed mine in petg and 100% infill, supports everywhere, still its very weak.
The two parts that the dual 5015 fans is screwed into is so weak that they break only touching it.
If you are supercareful maybe it will not break, but mounting this is not plug and play so it stresses the plastic a little.
I will post a jpeg where I have marked the parts that needs to be changed/modifyed.
As for the cooling: With dual fans at 30% speed, its supergood and the noise is reduced very much !
Thank You !
I am sorry but you obviously have not read the instructions that are provided in the summary documentation. To get the strength needed (so you won't have the issue you are describing) you MUST print the parts in the orientation the directions say. In this case the parts cooling duct must be printed with the front face of the cooling duct down flat on the build plate. This will give the strength to the wings that hold the 5015 fans. The Hero Me Gen2 Base must be printed with the back of the base (that which sits flush with the X gantry) must be down on the build plate. This will give both. the mount points and the wire channel tower the strength needed. Nothing will 'snap' or break between your fingers when printed as instructed. Print all parts with supports but ONLY from the Build Plate.
Perhaps you could provide a picture showing the correct orientation, or change the orientation of the STLs so they are oriented correctly on import to the slicer. As they say, a picture says a thousand words.
Here you go. Front face down on the build plate. Most of the cooling ducts STLs are in this position already.
Thanks for that. I think it will really help people out.
I printed mine in petg 30% infill with with a wall count of 2. It's very sturdy. What filament are you using?
Wall Count is set to 2, Petg from surreal. Its a construction miss in my opinion.
No, just printed in the wrong orientation, see my reply to your first message.
Increase your wall or shell count. I built it with 3 walls and it's very strong in pla
my english isnt the best, so i need your help.
I have a stock Ender 3 with no mods. I want to print this duct, but which files do i need? I want to print it in PLA. I have no BLTouch or EZABL or something else, just a stock Ender 3 Printer, with stock Fans.
Could you please help me?
This will reuse your existing OEM fans with the Hero Me Gen2. Be sure to put a silicone sock on the hot-end for use with PLA parts for the cooling system.
How do I adjust the offsets on a stock ender 5? Do I have to flash a bootloader first?
I do not know the firmware setup for an Ender 5, sorry. That info is likely on Facebook and or YouTube.
Does this work printed in PLA?
My Ender 3 can't print PETG
Yes, if you use a silicone sock to insulate the hot-end. Print the parts in PLA, then assemble, and then print again in PETG. Your Ender 3 is fully capable of printing PETG and even ABS. There are many YouTube videos on how to setup your Ender 3 for PETG. It is mostly in the slicer settings.
May I ask, are we supposed to use the long, or short small screws for the small part cooling fan on the right side for oem hot end, stock fans for ender 3 pro?
I tried the long, but could not get it to reach the hole on the right, that holds the nozzles so the right side sags a little now.....the short screw reached on the left side. I tried moving it up and down to find the right spot but never could....I imagine its meant to reach all the way through to one of the three holes correct?
If you are reusing all your OEM fans and screws and you have one of the original Hero Me Gen2 bases: You would use 2 of the long thin (M2) screws to hold the cooling duct to the Hero Me base. You use the other two long thin screws to hold the OEM 4010 fan to the cooling duct. You use the M3 screws to hold the fan to the base that cools the heat sync. If you are using one of the newer Hero Me Gen2 bases, the holes on the sides for mounting the cooling ducts are now sized for M3 screws. I am standardizing everything around M3 screws going forward. The holes in the Hero Me base (of either size) are meant to be self tapping, no nuts are needed. Depending on how your Base print turned out, you may need to use an Xacto knife to widen the oval hole in the cooling duct pegs to allow the M3 screws to fit through.
My parts cooling fan has 2 short and 2 long screws. The small black skinny ones. The design made it appear the same screw that holds in the parts cooling fan, holds the nozzle to the right side as well. Your saying a second screw goes in behind that screw but slightly above it?
The front, larger cooler fan worked with no issue. Not sure which screw size those are though but they are silver, and have a rounded head.
Big thank you for your design! Quick question, I've already printed kelokera's fan duct using stock fan but I'm planning to use yours with 5015 x2, do I have to print again base and lock from yours or is it compatible with kelokera's one? Thank you.
Thanks for choosing the Hero Me (& Gen2)! The mount points for the cooling ducts are compatible across all Hero Me remixes. But... My Gen2 Base has several hundred tweaks and improvements. Not the least of which is the much larger wire channel to prevent the 5015 fan from being pushed out at an angle. All the improvements are detailed in the summary.
Thank you very much for your prompt response, I'll print all then, thanks.
Im currently printing a Hero Me for my Ender 3. I love the design. Thank you for making it.
However i noticed when i was printing the "Hero_Me_OEM_4010_Duct_Gen2g" i got a weird Line in one of the Ducts. It seems as if i have an error in my stl file maybe?
I added a screenshot of my Cura-preview where it shows the line on the left duct.
Probably its down to my inexperience and i might just have a setting or two wrong - in that case please let me know :)
This will print fine. I am working on a fix, but this is only to quell the question like yours. No disrespect. I get asked this all the time. If you scan down through the comments, you’ll find this over and over. Thanks for choosing the Hero Me Gen2.
A big thank you for the design, it's fantastic, the best mod you can add to an ender 3.
Thanks for choosing the Hero Me Gen2!
Please forgive my ignorance in advance. I have a stock Ender 3, and I want to print out the Hero Me Gen2 with preparations for a BL Touch and 5015 fans. I found an Amazon link for a 2 pack of 5015 fans (24v). It's probably possible to re-use the existing fan for the 3rd one (the one that's tilted at an angle), but is it preferred to get better one?
Do I have the parts list I would need correct?
Thank you for making this!
(edit: the underscores changed some formatting, but I hope the filenames that I'm asking about are still legible)
You don't need the Base Lock STL. The base is locked by the BLTouch mount. All the other parts are correct.
hey I'm pretty new at this too and have questions, but 2 things I do know... and u might want to check on..
Greetings mediaman! i am a new ender 3 user. So far my prints have been a test puppy, a fan cover, and printing now is a raspberry pi gameboy case. I am stock except for an upgrade metal extruder kit. (noob).
This looks like the gold standard for ender tip cooling and touch sensor (which I hope to do soon)
and now for my biggest noob question.. I guess direct drive ( mounting the extruder above the hot end ?) is like a huge upgrade for anti stringing which I am seeing in my models.
is this mod able to be compatible with that? is there a direct drive kit that u know of that you use that works best with your hero mod ? I have heard there are some that don't quite fit (Canada Barbosa)
Please let me know! I'm excited to print prettier haha
Thanks for choosing the Hero Me Gen2! Upgrading to a Direct Drive is a big upgrade (I have not done it yet myself). There is a version of the Hero Me Gen2 Base that is compatible with a Direct Drive kit. It is called the DD Hero Me Base Gen2.stl. It work's with the Barasaba Innovations DD kit on eBay. More info can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3359578 (note that my version of the DD Hero Me base is current with all my other mods, his is based on an older version of the Hero Me base). There are several others that are listed in the Hero Me Collection here: https://www.thingiverse.com/mediaman/collections/hero-me-cooling-systems. I would suggest that the only reason to go to a direct drive system is if you need to print flexible filaments. Anti-stringing can be solved in your slicer settings, there is no reason to go DD to solve stringiness.
For Hero Me Base Gen2d.stl, do I need different screws if I am using a 40 mm Noctua fan, or can I use the stock ones?
The stock screws should work if your heat sync fan is 10mm or less.
Hey has anyone experience one side shifting up? For some reason I noticed today that the right side duct pipe seemed to have warped upward.. is there a way to shift it back down?
Are you using a silicone sock on your hot-end. This is required if you have printed your cooling duct in PLA (even for some PETG, depending on the size of your hot-end and positioning of the cooling ducts). Have you tightened the screws that hold the cooling ducts well to the base, it is possible from the vibration of the hot-end moving around (especially with lots of tiny movements) to have the cooling duct slip it the screws are not tight enough. If that is not it, then it is likely the cooling ducts have warped from the heat of the hot-end. I only run the bed temp to 60c and the hot-end to 230c (with PLA or PETG printed cooling ducts). If you are using higher temps, this could be the cause. I have never tested the Hero Me with ABS (that usually needs 90-100c bed and 250c nozzle temps), in those scenarios, the Hero Me ducts should be printed in ABS.
Best position of the cooling duct is when the nozzle is touching the build plate, the bottom of the cooling duct should be between .1mm and .2mm above the build plate (varies due to the type and height of the nozzle you are using). I set mine to .12mm off the build plate.
There's one thing I noticed and that's the right fan duct (where the fan connects into) seems to be closer to the hotend than the left side (i'm using the single fan OEM shroud).
--Update. 5/19/2019 4:42 PM--
Ok, so I've confirmed my theory, the right fan duct side where the fan slides into is absolutely way too close to the nozzle. Just started a print and I'm already seeing that the duct is starting to soften up and warp on that side, however on the other side it's still firm and not warped. I've compared this to the bullseye (which was made with PLA) and it is spaced out evenly; hence no warping issues whatsoever. I really like this fan duct as compared to the bullseye because of its modularity, but I can't keep reprinting the same thing over and over again because not only it takes 4 hrs each time to get it printed, but it also ends up becoming a massive waste of filament. I would highly suggest an update to move the right fan duct at least 4 more mm to get it centered with the nozzle. I shouldn't have to constantly keep reprinting the duct out (not should I have to switch fans when my stock one works just fine). I don't mean to sound rude, but I really can't keep on wasting time and money trying to reprint the part and it's quite annoying to be frank.
You are correct you should not have to reprint the nozzle. Based upon the photo you provided, the cooling ducts are mounted too high. The bottom of the cooling duct should be about 0.1mm to 0.13mm above the bed when the nozzle is touching the bed. When I return from my business trip (5/28) I will inspect the design file and adjust as needed. The stock fan (4010 radial) cooling duct is the least recommended of the group, I did it by request, and I have no love for that fan. When you can, I would highly recommend that you upgrade to a 5015 fan.
I just don't see why I have to upgrade to the 5015 fans just to get the shroud functioning properly, especially when the fan that came on it works perfectly fine and has worked on other shrouds aswell. And I've tried sitting it lower but it just warps downward and actually hits my prints; and it's always on the right side where that fan is inserted. I'm going to print out this 'version 2' version of the 4010 shroud someone else had made earlier in the year (the file is attached). I compared it to the gen G version and it seemed to have that issue fixed.
Yes, that may do it for you. This is why I fully support remixes, this provides a wide array of options beyond what I am focused on or able to do. More options may be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/mediaman/collections/hero-me-cooling-systems
I give up.. printed the remixed version and I can poke the side where the fan is and it still bends from me poking it. I think it's because of the side where the thermistor not being covered up at all by the sock. That's the only thing I can say is causing it. I feel like the design of the shroud really needs to be changed all together because the heat on that particular side seems to be more intense than the other
I got the part printed out, but I'm not sure what height I should set it to.. I see some say 1mm but i see others saying .1mm to 0.2. Currently I have the shroud set a little more than 0.2mm
Yes, I have a heat sock on the hotend and my temps are normally 235C and 75C, and no higher than those. .I haven't experienced this issue with the Petsfang Bullseye fan ahroud and that was printed in PLA. Everything is also tightened up to their fullest and I have the shroud about 2mm away from the bed
Question.. does that LED mount fit with the OEM fan (Ender 3) single fan duct? Also, can it be used to fit an LED strip?
No, it was made for a request, it only directly fits the Hero Me Single 5015 Duct. Yes it should work with any LED strip that is that length or less.
Awh, could you by chance a way make a lightbar that doesn't directly shine down on the bed (since I have glass) that goes around the hotend for the OEM version? I've been having the hardest time finding a bar that creates an 'ambient' glow on the bed where it doesn't get completely darkened by the hotend nor cause this terrible glare in my cameras. I would really appreciate it :D
I would have to add it to my backlog list of requests. I don't know when I could get something done. I believe that there are a couple remix mods that may already do what you want. Have a look here: https://www.thingiverse.com/mediaman/collections/hero-me-cooling-systems
I'm sorry if this has been asked, but i couldn't find a guide for it: On an Ender 5, which prints do i need to make to use a BLtouch a dual 5015?
I updated my version of the Hero Me base for the Ender 5. Improved the fit for the left side belt mount slot. Made it easier to slide the base over the hot-end.
Thank you so much for your hard work and responsiveness:-) You comment really helps me to sort out exactly what I need.
This is great work, thank you! I also really like your Gen 6 Plus. I'm running it on my CR-10 S5.
I've just received the Direct Drive kit for the Ender 5 (https://www.fargo3dprinting.com/products/ender-5-direct-drive-upgrade-kit/) and of course now there is a need for an updated Hero Me Base for that. I'm trying to get the drawing for the new carriage in order to see where things need to be adjusted. Matthew says he shifted the M3 mounting holes 1.5mm to the right to clear the belt slot.
There may be one that already works. There are several DD mods for the Here Me in this collection: https://www.thingiverse.com/mediaman/collections/hero-me-cooling-systems
For the base, you will want the STL from the following remix:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3485675
then print these files from this design:
Hero Me Dual 5015 duct Gen2g.stl
BLTouch Wing dual fan Gen2a.stl
BLTouch adj mount dual fan Gen2a.stl
Hello Which files would I need to do twin 5015 fans on an Ender 3 Pro? Im not using any auto bed leveling. Thanks
Three files. The Hero Me base, the Hero Me dual 5015 cooling duct, and the Base Lock.
Do you find that this moves the ABL sensor too far to the left? I like it, but that of course is a concern. I am using the CR-10S pro right now with all stock parts for the hotend. My go microswiss later but am looking for ways to upgrade the fans.
Unless you have a severely wavy bed, the offset will not be a problem. If you have a a CR-10S Pro, then you will want to use this version of the Hero Me Gen2: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3433619
I would like to give this a try, but I'm using an SN-08 inductive sensor and I see no version supporting that: am I missing something?
Use the EZABL_mini_18adapter ring file (print 2) to make the EZABL mount fit your 12mm sensor.
Actually the SN-08 has a square footprint...
Well that shows how good Google search isn't. Ok, instead use the Touch-mi mount found in my parts list.
Thanks for your work on this , it fits perfectly on my ender 3 with all the stock fittings , looking forward to trying it out .
Thanks again Dadio
Thanks for choosing the Hero Me Gen2! Please post a make when you have it all setup.
I am overwhelmed by the choices regarding the fan.
I currently use the stock hot end on my Ender 3. I might switch to a better hotend later on. Noise reduction is not an issue.
What cooling fan solution do you recommend to be on the safe side without too much investment?
This will reuse your existing OEM fans with the Hero Me Gen2.
If you want a better parts cooling solution for low cost. Then get a 24v 5015 radial fan from www.TH3DStudio.com and print
Hero_Me_Single_5015_Duct_Gen2e.stl (instead of the OEM 4010).
thanks a lot!
I think I'd rather go for a dual solution. Therefore I will use two ball bearing 5015/24v.
I do use an ABL, the BLTOUCH V3. So I assume I have to print the holder. Is it
Both are required to be the mount for the BLTouch as this is adjustable vertically. There are different BLTouch devices out their (clones) where the height of the touch differs, hence the need for a two part solution to adjust the height for what you have.
Was curious if anyone has or if you've heard of anyone getting the ender 5 base file to work. Printed it along with the dual 5015, bl touch adapter and bracket in petg and all parts came out as close to perfect as I could hope for. Problem is the base will not fit an ender 5 with the way they run the belts let alone the bltouch addition. Is the file correct or is there something I am missing like a change on the belt slot or anything? Anyone who has gotten the ender 5 base to work it would be awesome if you could tell me your secret!
Here is an Hero Me Gen2 base remix for the Ender 5: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3485675
Note the comment on that remix, as there may be some difficulty mounting on the Ender 5.
Appreciate the link. I had looked at that one but went with your files since there was an Ender 5 base listed. It appears the entire thing (base, blower etc) would have to be “tweaked” to fit around the two belt slots. I was playing around in fusion 360 with trying to make a BLTouch adapter that works on the 5 as the left side mounting point, basically turning the base hero me into an integrated BLTouch base by using the touch mount as the left side of the base unfortunately working in mesh to combine the two stl files isn’t something I excel at. If it helps here is a link to the adaptor I am using and was trying to make the hero me base left side if that helps with what clears the left side belt holder. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3388571 Of course there is the belt holder on the right side also so not sure how that would impact trying to run a 5015 on the side.
I am working on a version that will fit for the Ender 5. To confirm that I am making the right adjustments, I need pics of the Ender 5 X gantry back plate and the measurements of the belt slot position in relation to the bottom left and right corners of the gantry plate. If you can help with that, I would greatly appreciate it.
I have an ender 5 and just tried to print and mount the STL currently included but found I couldn't fit over the hot end while it was mounted and didn't have clearance to tighten the hot end's mount screws to do so after fitting into the Hero Me Base while off the X gantry mount.
I'd be happy to provide pictures over the weekend here of how it fits with the hot end removed and how it won't fit while it's mounted.
Thank you for all that you do!
I updated the Hero Me base for the Ender 5. Improved the fit for the left side belt mount slot. Made it easier to slide the base over the hot-end. Please let me know if this is enough. Send pics and measurements if this does not work for you.
Attaching pictures of my install. I was able to get things to fit using my initial print, so Gen C I think, just needed to have it just right to slip over the heat break while the hotend was removed. I can measure the slot distance from edge later today and post another update as well.
Edit: fixed misstatements and clarified which version I installed (not the one linked in the parent comment, but an earlier iteration)
Thank you! I’ll give it a try and post a reply here as soon as I can; going to see if I can make the initial one fit well enough to print this new one by taking more apart and modifying post print like another commenter reported working for them. But I should be able to report on this new stl within the next week. I was planning to reprint with the Hero Me duct installed to improve the quality either way.
Thanks for the hard work you have obviously put into your design. Your revision documentation is very appreciated as well. Great job! I have been looking for a decent cooling fan setup since I bought my Ender 3 printer in late January. Your’s will be going on my printer, soon as I decide to go with a single fan or dual fans. Again, keep up the great work and I’ll update you once I have mine printed and installed.
Thanks for choosing the Hero Me Gen2! I look forward to seeing you make of the Hero Me.
Is there a guide how to install the extra fan, i have an ender 3, and i am interested in getting two 5015 fans installed, but i cant find a guide and i am not really familiar with installtion such things :)
The two fans are wired in parallel. red to red and black to black. You use the power wires that are there for the OEM fan that cools the part when printing (not the one that cools the heat sync for the hot-end). The power supply has enough current to support both fans at 100% power.
How do I print this out in PETG in Slic3r PE? The supports are especially tricky to get out
I don't use Slic3r, but you have to use the support setting equivalent of 'from build plate only'. You do not want supports inside the cooling channels. If Slic3r does not have such a setting, then use the free Cura slicer.
I'm using that setting, but with PETG filament, the supports end up being too hard to remove. Particually, in the BLTouch wing part, there's a hexagonal hole that gets filled with supports and it's pretty much impossible to remove.
I don't know what controls Slic3r offers as to density, layer gap, type, etc. of supports. Both Cura and S3D provide a wide range of support controls that make it easy to remove the supports that are used. You could print the BLTouch wing standing up with the left side face down on the build plate. see the attached image, the bottom in this straight on view would be down on the build plate (red line represents the build plate).
Sorry for the delay! I got busy with work. I actually just finished printing the wing part and the new orientation was MUCH easier to remove :D
I got one more thing to ask, I'm about to print out the other parts (all stock parts for the Ender 3) but I'm really nervous on how the supports are going to come out.. what orientation do you recommend me doing?
For the part cooling ducts, print whichever one you chose with the front face of the duct down flat on the build plate. This will give you the strength needed for the part. The Hero Me base should be printed with the back that faces the X gantry, place the back down flat to the build plate. Again for all the Hero Me parts, supports are needed (but not dense), and ONLY from the build plate. A good sharp Xacto knife is your friend when it comes to cleaning off the supports, careful they are sharp, I know this too well ;)
Just got the cooling duct out, and it was easy to clean up :D .. but now here's what I've been most afraid of: the base. The base in particular seems to have supports in some strange places.. here's what it looks like right now (same settings I've used on both the ducts and the Bltouch mount
I actually just finished printing out everything and it all came out well! Although the base did some hard to reach strings in the fan duct, but it sitll works none the less. Thanks for the help :D
thank you for the improvements over the original. The new set fit great. Only issue was the part cooling duct melted by the hot in on the wire side. For the next person that needs this print it in ABS if you are planning on printing PETG or ABS often.
Which printer and hot-end are you using? and which version of cooling duct are/were you using with the Hero Me? Do you have a silicone sock on your hot-end or just the paper and tape? If I know this info, I may be able to help. Silicone socks are the way to go. There are updates coming in the next couple weeks that will improve things greatly.
I'm on an ender 3 pro, with a silicon sock and stock hot end . I was using the most recent 5015 single version of the duct. I found a few little things after I reprinted. The first was the heater cartridge was not in the hot end deep enough. It still was getting very hot on that side still. I printed out a mold and cast a new sock to cover the wired end of the heater. I also reprinted the duct in abs. Now I can crank up the printer to 250c without the duct getting soft on that end.
I've had comments that the internal U bend (in the single 5015 duct) used to balance the air flow path length may be too restrictive. So, I have created a newer version that is in testing now that removes the internal U bend air flow. This version has a straight path for each duct. The two duct ports are 50% of the sq. mm size of the duct intact (which is the right ratio for the best positive air pressure). I have attached it for your consideration. It would be good to know if this helps, or if the duct tips are too thin walled, with a setup like yours etc.
Wanted to give you a follow up. Printed out of abs, made a custom sock to protect the right side a little more from the heater element and it has been flawless. I print most of my abs and petg stuff without cooling fan and I have had zero warpage from the right side since. It also prints beautifully in abs with some carefully manual support placement. The new design also works great. A little more airflow from the 5015 im running which comes in handy bridging printing hot and fast.
I'll give it a go. I think my original issue was just pla can't take the heat. It's glass transition state is just to low to be that close to the hot end. The abs doesn't have any issues. Haven't really noticed the air restriction yet since I've been working on PETG projects that I don't use part cooling on.
Hi, thank you for the design, I really like it.
Can please you rotate the left fan on the Dual 5015 design so that it pulls the air from the left instead of pulling from the center (where the hotend is).
It would be great if you can modify the exit ducts so that the air is going down to the part that's being printed instead of blowing to the nozzle.
The cooling ducts are designed to be vertically adjustable by you (this is why the mount pegs are slotted and there are multiple mount holes in the base). You can lower the duct so that the bottom of the duct is between 1mm and 2mm above the build plate when the nozzle is touching the build plate. In this setup the ducts are directing the air flow directly below the tip of the nozzle at the part.
The best solution to your request for the left hand 5015 fan to get cool air is to use this remix: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3481256
I used the X and Y offsets to flash my firmware with the TH3D firmware and it tells me I can't use integers so when the mount I am using says to offset X -45.4 I can't do the .4 only 45, will this still be ok to use with the EZABL?
YEs, rounding down to just 45 is fine.
Hello! I'm a little confused with the 5015 mod.
This mod uses 5015 0x50x15x15mm 24 V fan? Or does it require a fan 5015 40x40x10 mm?
They are two kinds of fans on amazon or aliexpress, and which ones to buy.
The 5015 part cooling ducts use one or two model 5015 fans. These fans are radial and have a dimension of 50mm X 50mm X 15mm. The fan used to cool the heat sync of the hot-end is a 40mm X 40MM axial fan. 12v or 24v depends on the printer you have. If you have a CR-10/S then you want the 12v fans. If you have an Ender 3 then you want the 24v fans. I do not know what voltages are used by other printer models.
Could you recomend me a 5015 24v fan for this mod? thanks
I buy all my fans from TH3DStudio.com here in the USA. They carry high quality sealed bearing fans.
Could yo recomemend me 5015 fan for this mod? This will work? 50x50x15x15mm 24v? Im from Argentina . https://es.aliexpress.com/item/80mm-80-2-unids-50x50x15x15mm-24-V-DC-2Pin-5-cm-Blushless-ventilador-de-refrigeraci-n/32896667517.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.99999999.265.16163c00bISX74
Hi! I really like this design but I've found a few problems. I have a dual 5015 setup and I recently printed the dial mount for dual fans but unfortunately it sticks out to the side too much and therefore prevents the head from homing on the x axis as the mount hits the end switch housing on my cr10. I was going to use it with a prusa pinda probe as it fits that mount perfectly. The other problem I have is that the little tabs that join the base to the duct are very prone to breaking and don't hold the heavy dual 5015 setup very well. It wobbles up and down a bit and it it always sags down after adjusting the heigh. It would be great if you made these tabs much thicker and possible even switch those to m3 bolts? Also an additional mounting point somewhere towards the front would be great. As I've said earlier, two 5015 fans weight quite a bit and that weight always tilts the duct down. Especially after a few hundred hours of printing. But besides these two little problems I wouldn't change much. Best fan duct design out there ;)
Thanks for choosing the Hero Me Gen2! To your first question. The dial mount was made for a request, I do not have one to test. If you can provide me with pics and measurements of what needs to change, I'll fix it. For question two, if the mount pegs on your part cooling ducts are snapping off, that sounds like you are printing the cooling duct in the wrong orientation. All the cooling ducts should be printed with the front face of the duct down flat on the build surface. Use supports, but only from the build plate. With the cooling ducts printed in this orientation, the mount pegs should be a tight fit into the slots on the side of the base. The current mount pegs and the Hero Me base are setup for M3 screws to self tap. Given that you have a few hundred hours of printing with the Hero Me, maybe you've printed an earlier version of the parts?
Can you add more wall/support to dual 5015 for better support
Ok, just for you. This is based on a newer duct tip design. Let me know what you think.
Thanks, will try it
Awesome works! Congrats :)
I will print Dual Fan 5015 version (Hero Me Base Gen2d.stl Hero_Me_Dual_5015_Duct_Gen2g.stl Base Lock - Gen2.stl=
What settings should I print with (support settings, infill, resolution etc.)? Thanks
These are reasonably complex shapes. I recommend printing at .16mm and slow your print speed to 50.
Print all the Ducts with the front face down flat on the print bed. Print the Base with the back side (that connects to the X gantry mount) down on the build plate.
This will give you the best results, strongest parts, and use the least amount of supports (but you DO NEED SUPPORTS).
For all the parts that do need supports, use "Touching Build Plate" only. You do not want supports inside the fan ducts or base.
Attached is a screen shot of the support settings I use in Simplify3D.
First, thanks for your great work on this! I'm having some difficulty installing my OEM fan in the Hero_Me_OEM_4010_duct_Gen2f. On mine the screw mounts won't fit without forcing (cracking) the duct itself, and the model/fan measurements show what might be happening with the lack of space. Wondering if I am doing something wrong. I tried layer heights of both .16 and .12.
Note it was hard to get a good pic in Fusion without obscuring the label, but I chose the two parallel vertices on the outer edge.
Here is an updated duct with a 2.05 gap for your wider fan tabs.
Looks like not all 4010 fans are created equal. I will widen the gap to make it work with fans that have thicker tabs. I will post a file shortly. You could also use an Xacto knife to shave the plastic to widen the gap.
Thanks a ton! I initially tried to shave it down with a knife, but it quickly got mangled. I'm going to do a test print now of just enough of the model to make sure the fan fits.
It fits now! Still pretty snug, but this was a draft test. Tomorrow I hope to print the final in 0.12. Thanks again!
Hello There! I Have Question, whats files do i need to print for 5015 fans? I have a Ender 3. Only Hero_Me_Dual_5015_Duct_Gen2g.stl or another file too?
You have to print the base and the base lock as well.
For a dual 5015 setup you need:
Hero Me Base Gen2d.stl
Base Lock - Gen2.stl
This is all in the summary.
The STL File Hero Me Duct 4010 is broken... i want to print it but there is a gap between the left air outlet and the rest. ;) only a notice for you ;)
I am working on a fix to resolve this issue. In the mean time, if you're using Cura, turn off Print thin Walls, turn on Fill gaps between Walls to 'Everywhere'. This prints fine with my S3D profile.
I got the same gap.
Tried to play with this two settings without success.
Nevertheless my print turned fine after all.
Relative to the nozzle, how far up/down should the duct be ? i.e. where the cooling air comes out of the ducts
Thank you !
More info: The lower the better, but not so low as to catch on the printed parts. I set mine to about 1.2mm - 1.4mm above the bed. There are some duct leveling helpers included with one of the remixes here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3481256
When the hot-end nozzle is touching the build plate, the bottom of the part cooling duct should be between 1mm and 2mm above the build plate (depending on your hot-end and nozzle shape/size). You want the ducts to be blowing air at the base of the nozzle.
Hello, I have ender 3 with Trianglelab High All-metal v6 hotend and I would like to print the fixing and blowing single 5015 + fixing Trianglelab A 2019 3D TOUCH, my question what files do I need to print?
You're at the right maker but the wrong thing. For your Trianglelab V6 you need to use my E3D V6 remix of the Hero Me Gen2. You can find it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3291101
The parts you will for what you described are:
Marlin firmware offset update needed for the BLTouch clone are:
BLTouch and Single 5015 duct: -42 X and -8 Y
for a fully stock Ender-3 (with BLTOUCH ABL)
printed these :
what is the BLTOUCH mount i can use.
and what are offset values...
because in post i can see no "Hero_Me_OEM_4010 " offset values.
For the BLTouch with the OEM 4010 part cooling fan & duct, you need:
You don't need:
Marlin firmware offset update needed for the BLTouch are:
4010 OEM fan or single 5015 duct: Use -42 X and -16 Y
Hello!!! Any chance for 60mm coldend vent mod?!? Thank you in advance
LE: i use dual 5015 setup with 60mm coldend vent and bltouch
Try adding this to the base: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2178209
im sorry for such newbie question.. my 2nd day owning an ender 3... i would like to ask which files should i print for stock fans/screws..
thank you.. sorry.. i dont understand model numbers indicated..
thank you very much... i appreciate your time helping us enjoy printing :D
MediaMan, I have created a version of the Hero_Me_Base_Gen2d in Fusion 360.
This was designed from scratch using your STL file for measurements. It is a very close replica. If it is useful please feel free to incorporate it into the main project.
I have also updated the Teaching Techs remix of the original Hero Me Base, but using the Gen2d design, for use with the DD E3 Direct Drive mount from Basaraba Innovations
Feel free to incorporate this into the main project.
STEP files are included in both projects.
Thanks for making the this DD refresh! For whatever reason the original DD had a weak point on the mount near the wire guide, even after several attempts with infill increases. Couldn't figure out if it was something I was doing. The refresh seems rock solid!
Eugene, Awesome! Thanks so much. I will check these out this evening and add to the project. Andy
Hi, as I broke a part of my Hero 2 I´d love to give this one a go. I´m just unsure if it will print hasslefree with supports only from the base. I marked one of the spots I think it will fail without addidtional support. Could you please let me know if I really don´t need any support there.
Thanks in advance.
I've never needed to put supports there. That is a very small bridge, even a fair setup should be able to bridge that far without supports. You will know best if you have printed items that bridge 1/2 inch (actually less than 1/2).
ok, i just thought it needs to print a curve with no support under it. seems i´m wrong :)
can you give a hint, please, how much weight does the HeroMe add in his different versions ?
I've never weighed the parts till now. a full setup (not including fans & hot-end) varies between 2 and 3 ounces. Very light weight.
There is a LED - holder added, but how do I have to insatll this thing?
can someone add a picture of a installation?
The LED holder was designed (for a request) specifically for the single 5015 parts cooling duct. I do not have an LED holder for any of the other part cooling ducts. The attached screen shots show the orientation of the LED holder (curved side up. flat side down, with shade lip on front edge).
Thanks, for the information and the picture.
So it's not made for the oem version.
OEM version of what? The LED mount is for the Hero Me Gen2 cooling system. This cooling system works with the OEM fans and hot-end of the CR-10/S, Ender 2 or 3.
In your first answer you wrote something about the 5015 fan. So, for me it was not clear if is suitable for the other versions.
Ok, yes. the LED is only for my 5015 single fan parts cooling duct. It is not designed for the single OEM 4010 fan duct.
is it possible to have the cad-file, so that I can create a ledstrip holder?
Thanks, that was my question, because I don't know if all the fan duct are at that position equal or if the have a different shape?!?
I have finally finished doing the SimScale airflow simulation of my parametric version of the Hero Me duct, and have uploaded a modified version of it, as well as screenshots of the simulation output. I think I will make one slight change, to smooth out one odd bump, but this is the one I am printing.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3481256
Hi. Thank you for your work! However, I need to make some small changes. I tried exporting from Tinkercad to .STEP and also directly to Fusion 360 with no luck. Is there any chance you can try to convert the files to .STEP and share? I would appreciate it. Thanks!
All my originals are in TinkerCAD. The experimental STP export that TinkerCAD offers does not work with complex shapes. I have not had any success in creating STEP files from TinkerCAD. What mods would you like to have done? Which part(s)?
Hi Hero_Me_OEM_4010_duct_Gen2f.stl have drawing problems in simplify3d can you fix it?
and i cant print it just broke then it finishing
You want to print the Hero_Me_OEM_4010_duct_Gen2f.stl with the front face of the cooling duct down flat on the build plate. This will use less supports (use support from build plate only). Hundreds of people have successfully printed this part without issue. the wall thicknesses are correct. See screen shot from Simplify3D.
fnx i found problem it was allowed single line extrusion
Hi, I'm currently printing the duct for the stock 4010 fan. I just saw that in your 3D model there is a small gap in the right duct (fan side). It's small but I can see in cura that there is. The quality of the STL file is also not too good. Hope that the duct will stay on once finished to print. I attack some pictures.
It prints solid and performs as expected. I will correct the minor anomaly just to make all the questions about this specific thing stop.
I just finished printing this and mine has a physical gap.
I used Cura with stock Ender 3 settings other than 0.16 layer height and print speed of 50.
It's generally a pretty decent print other than the gap, its actually only attached on the top layer. In Cura layer viewer it doesn't look like there should be as big of a gap as I have (it looks like the two pieces should be beside each other) but it is consistent gap the whole way up.
I'm not 100% sure if I printed it in the correct orientation, but I checked the comments and did it the same as someone who asked was it correct (front of the cooling part was on the base of the printer) Supports pulled away clean too.I'm a pretty novice printer and I only got the ender this week so still finding my way around it.
Saw this as well (see comments below) but printed it anyway. Prints just fine even with the flaws in the technical drawing. The final product is sturdy and shaped as it should be
I fixed it as much as I could.
Thanks for trying, but I'm sorry, but your 'fix' is worse than my original (see screen shot, your fix on the left, original on the right). I will correct the minor anomaly just to make all the questions about this specific thing stop. It prints solid and performs as expected.
Firstly, thanks for reply and amazing work you're doing!
Strange, it looks like slicer or settings depends on output in that case. I tried to compare it as much as I could before uploading here earlier:https://imgur.com/a/LLRsFsa
But I understand your concern as I'm not 3d modeler and have little experience. Sorry for making confusion.
Additional question. After printing your mounting and duct for original parts and fans for Ender 3, and printing the same gcode 'micro test' tower, I saw that nozzle created a ton of little strings, looking like dust, covering half of print. On stock cooling everything was ok.https://i.imgur.com/a5pQJmf.jpg
Fan through printing was set at 100% (255) and hotend temperature was set to 205*C.
Here is the position of duct:https://i.imgur.com/qbjxqvq.jpg
And water test:https://imgur.com/a/KhsdVCP
Sadly, there is almost no change in overhangs too, but I assume that this might be connected with other potential problems and not with cooling:https://i.imgur.com/rPr3EYz.jpg
Duct was printed with recommended lh 0.12 and speed of 48.
Hi! I have an Ender 3 with BLTOUCH, and I would like to install Hero Me Gen 2 fan duct dual 5015. Which files I have to print? I have seen that the BLTOUCH is floating out of the printing head, to the left, and I don't have a clear idea if that will be a problem for the X end stop. Is it necessary to modify anything there to install this setup (dual 5015 and BLTOUCH)? Thank you
Hmm. my reply got 'flagged for moderation', very strange. You want print the following parts:
The X end stop will not be a problem.
Thank you Mediaman. Printed and working. Thank you very much for your work.
Could you add to the description that the fan duct offset from nozzle is between 1mm to 2mm? I have been reading lots of comments units I found that info.
Here are the parts you need to print for the setup you have described:
The X end stop will not be an issue.
Does anyone know what the "adj_mount" version for BLTOUCH is for? Do we use both that and "wing"?
The BLTouch 'adj_mount' STL files work with the wing files. BLTouch_wing_singlefan-_Gen2.stl and BLTouch_wing_dualfan-_Gen2.stl files. This allows for adjusting the height of the BLTouch (or clone) to the right height for your hot-end setup.
Sorry no idea. I printed the mount but it doesn't fit anywhere and has grooves in the back that don't seem to match any surface.
The wing is what you put on the base, the adjustable mount (adj_mount) you can screw on this wing. The grooves match then
Loving it so far, Great Work! Printing petg and the prints come out extremely strong, fans on 30% with the dual 5015s, however, this is the 2nd one i had break here. same side and minimal pressure. Would it be possible to extend the rear wall for the fan so that it is L shaped or even extended all the way to add some more strength? Looking at the way the fan mounts it shouldn't be an issue to install fans even with the rear fan wall extended. Everything else is solid on the part though! love the design!
Sorry, but you have printed the part cooling fan in the wrong orientation. Print it with the front face of the cooling duct down flat on the build plate. This will give the strength needed in the upper arms that retain the fans.
Makes sense. I will reprint and update. Thankya!
Hello, I installed this duct on my ender 3 pro, but unfortunately, the filament fan position hinders me from easily removing the fan as everything takes a lot of time to mount and attach, would it be possible to adjust the position of that fan? Say a bit outward to the right. That way I can easily snug the fan in place without squishing other cables.
Which of the 7 part cooling ducts for the Hero Me Gen2 are you referring to? There is a remix for the dual 5015 that tips the fans forward. You can see it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3481256/files ACWest who did that remix is in process of making versions for several of the other part cooling ducts.
Or are you referring to the heat sync cooling fan? There is no changing that, as that is core to the design.
I want to remix it to use a 4040 fan as Partcooling. The Original with only one fan is not in the tinkercad file. any chance of getting it somewere?
4040 fan??? Do you mean a 4020 fan? There is a Dual 4020 parts cooling fan duct STL in the files. If you want a single 4020 fan parts cooling duct there is a remix for that here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3455775. But I tried looking up a 4040 fan and found nothing. Point me to the fan you want to use and I will see what I can do. (it will be added to my long mod request todo list).
I want to use the same fan size as the Hotend cooling fan, in order to make it silent
Sorry, I won't be doing a remix to support any axial fans to perform part cooling. That goes against the design and space savings of the Hero Me. But, I will make sure all the parts are in the TinkerCAD project so you can remix it the way you want. I will get that done this evening.
A 40x40x10 fan, like the hotend has, is not well suited for parts cooling. It does produce enough pressure to squeeze the air through a small tunnel like a 4010 or 5015 can
Should the supports for the 4010 fan ducts be like this?
Basically yes, but you don't need any where near that much support density. For support set "Touching Build Plate" only. You do not want supports inside the fan ducts or base. Here is an image of my support settings for S3D. Cura would not be much different.
Some of the supports I actually added in because it looked like they wouldn't come out right without those supports (missing 1 and 2). Support 1,2, and 3 show what it originally looked like without the added supports
It appears that the STL for the single OEM 4010 fan (Hero_Me_OEM_4010_duct_Gen2f.stl) is broken. The tip of the fan duct on the side with the blower has broken geometry that causes the mesh to be split when slicing.
Is it possible to get an updated model that fixes this?
It will print fine as is, but I am working on a fix.
I think it will probably print fine, but I'm worried about the strength of the seam as it looks like it would be a weak point. A fix would be awesome though!
Thanks for trying, but I'm sorry, but your 'fix' is worse than my original (see screen shot, your fix on the left, original on the right). I will correct the minor anomaly just to make all the questions about this specific thing stop. It prints solid and performs as expected.