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motocoder

Mean Well LRS-350 PSU Case with Rear Plug for Prusa i3 Bear Full Upgrade

by motocoder Oct 27, 2018
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Are you able to clarify the screw requirements? If we have a bear kit along with stock MK3, do we need to order any other screws?

You should not need any additional screws. You will re-use the 4 screws that hold the bottom on the stock MK3 PSU cover, plus the 3 that hold the cover to the PSU. The PSU attaches to the Bear frame in the same way as the stock PSU (just different upper mounts), so re-use the same screws there as well.

Fantastic. Thanks Motocoder!

Sure. Let me know how it works out for you, and if you have any feedback. I'm using the version with the plug that comes out the side, and I haven't ever printed the latest version of this one, so feedback is appreciated.

I'm having a horrible time of printing this.

Printing with 3dxtech PETG. I've printed twice now, one with a brim - the other without. The prints seemingly finish fine - they're sticking to the bed fine, but the print is warping and is strong enough to lift the edges of my steel sheet (Prusa MK3) off the heated bed.

So I end up with a lifted bottom.

I wonder if it's partially geometry related? Not sure.

I'm not sure there's a solution in my case since it's actually lifting the sheet itself.

I'm going to try to print your alternate thing with the power and switch facing to the side and see how that goes.

Are you sure your 3DXTech PETG is dry? Their "High Temp PETG" has warping issues,btw. I had constant problems with the Bear extruder until I figured out that it was the 3dxtech filament that was causing warping and issues with the internal geometry. Also, 3dxtech sent me a spool of that stuff which, although sealed, was horribly moisture contaminated. their customer service was so bad on this I won't buy from them anymore. Maybe try another PETG? Another thing you can try is to lower the infill, or use a more tame infill like grid.

FWIW, I print and use the other case. I printed one of these just to test it out. the Prusa Power Panic board on the MK3 forces some really big compromises on the layout. You end up loosing much of the size advantage of the LRS PSU.

Let me know if you come up with any suggested design changes. It's really hard to nail one of these designs without having many people print them and provide feedback.

I've printed this, and tried to assemble it to mount it on my bear. Unfortunately the connectors on the on/off-switch are too long, so they press down and bend the power panic PCB quite a bit.
Could the wall where the switch is mounted be moved a bit forward to allow for using prusas' original connectors? 5mm would probably be enough to not bend the board, 10mm would be good.

edit: Didn't think to check if source was included. I'll see if I can do it myself.

Thanks for pointing this out. I guess there is some variation in how those connectors Prusa is using are crimped, because mine clear w/o issues. I have increased the size by 10mm and will upload in a few minutes.

Excellent, thanks. My F3D skills are still a bit lacking, so I managed to get something that worked for me - but the bottom plate turned out a bit wrong.

Can you clarify what was wrong? I believe the only change necessary was to edit the first sketch on the Case component and increase the 45mm dimension to 55mm. I'm not planning on re-printing this, so if there was an issue I want to double-check for that in the CAD tool.

(EDIT: I just double-checked using the "Interference" tool in Fusion 360, and my change looks good).

Somehow I managed to muck up the bottom plate so that the raised part didn't change. Mostly cosmetic in other words.

Edit: It's correct in your version.

Thanks, repvik. I confirmed that it's changing as I edit this dimension (d90 in my version).