I have printed all of the parts and assembled a model which is shown. The "Dome" cover will fit over the Base Plate, and in turn a 1/2" piece of sprinkler pipe will fit over the tabs in the center of the Base Plate. The Mic Holder will fit over a Gen 2 Echo Dot.
Fit of the parts is entirely dependent upon the printer. These parts fit together as printed on MY CR-10s modded printer and SHOULD fit together when printed on your printer what ever it is. None of the parts are over 150mm so they should print on almost every printer out there.
This design has only six printed parts, seven if you should choose to print the pipe, BUT, and a big but it is, a section of sprinkler pipe is so much easier to simply cut to size and paint, I highly recommend AGAINST printing the pipe, although I have included an .stl for one if you do decide to go that route. It was created and sized in Tinkercad and SHOULD be a good copy of a sprinkler pipe, but I do not guarantee it. I bought a sprinkler pipe and drilled the key handle holes as well as the slots in the bottom to allow the USB cable to fit and work with the base. I also bought a USB cable that has a "woven" look to the shielding to create the illusion of antique wiring.
I also drilled a small hole through the base pipe mount and the slotted end of the pipe to allow me to insert a small length of filament through both parts, securing them together. Although the parts can and were initially intended to be glued together, I wanted to present the option of being able to disassemble at a later date and this seemed to be the best option.
The other thing that needs done is to file or cut a half round opening in the lower lip of the "Dome" to allow the USB cable an exit. I could have put this in the .stl but I didn't want to add any complexity to the part for printing. All of the parts will print quite easily without support (except the "studs" - because of the base lip, they WILL NEED support!) and are properly oriented for that. The Mic holder was printed without support, but can use it if you want. I struggled to make all the parts printable without supports. All are printed with 15% infil.
Mic (Dot) holder(1)
Key stud(2) Support when printing.
2 springs for the key
USB cable (Optional)
1/2" plastic sprinkler pipe (cut to length desired, drilled, slotted)
Check the fit of everything! The mic holder should slide over the end of your pipe, it should fit tightly and require a little effort to get fully seated. A tight fitis desired.
The dome should just fit over the base to the point that when picked up both parts rise together and do not pop apart.
Please note: The pipe can be stand alone and does NOT need any of the "Key" parts. They are just added fluff.
The pipe should fit over the base center alignment easily. The two 6mm holes for the Key studs should be drilled 50mm apart and 50mm from the top of the pipe. Check the fit of the pipe to the base. The slots in the bottom of the pipe should be cut so that the key holes and slots align, this allows the USB cable to exit the pipe and be aligned to the rear of the base. At this point you may also drill the small hole through the pipe and alignment portion of the pase. Test fit that filament WILL pass through both sides,when you are satisfied, now put the USB cable through the pipe. This is essential that it be left there until the assembly is finished.
The slots cut into the bottom of the pipe MUST allow movement of the USB cable freely. This is essential to the assembly because when the pipe is attached to the BASE, the cable will need to be able to pass easily through the pipe fore adjustment! When you are sure it is right, pit the pipe in place on the Base and secure its fit. After it is secure, the Dome can be slid over the pipe and down on the base.
Check the fit of the key studs in the open hole squares to make sure they fit and are flush with each other. Once that is true, they may be set to the slots in the key checking for flush fit. Once that is true, glue them in place. Make sure the glue has set and hardened, then place the springs over the Key studs and press the key in place on the pipe. This CAN be the last step done if you desire.
Positioned looking at the REAR of the pipe. The "Key" is on the back of the microphone.
The small slot needed for the "Dome" is arbitrary, since the dome can be turned around the base. When assembled it should be aligned along the rear side of the base as most all original microphones were assembled this way.
Next is the actual "DOT" placement into the Mic Holder. This is done BEFORE the Holder is placed on the pipe! Insert the DOT into the Holder and align it so the USB connector can be seen through the pipe fitting hole, now insert the USB connector into the DOT, making sure to fully seat it. Once assured the cable is inserted securely, now place the Holder on the pipe and shorten the cable as needed until the Holder is securely seated on the pipe, AND, aligned front to rear with the base and Key!
I did not include any finishing or painting steps because these are totally up to you. These microphones were found in all shapes and sizes and colors and types. Painted, repainted, broken, repaired and reworked and repurposed, so the sky is the limit. There really is no "set" standard for one of these as individual style took over. Make one for YOU, not a copy of mine! LOL!
This was inspired by BATMansGTA D104 microphone, although it is NOT a remix because he didn't actually present much in the way of the actual microphone. He simply repurposed an actual one he happened to have for this purpose. I originally wanted to "print" one, but he didn't have much to print, there were no measurements, files or shapes. So, I basically needed to create one out of thin air as I can not afford to buy one for repurposing (seen the D-104 prices on e-bay? LOL!) Please improve, remix, remake this to your own. I am not especially good at doing original work so please improve it!