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Twisted Gear Lamp / Vase

by BenitoSanduchi Oct 3, 2012
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Cool model, just sent it over to my Anet A8. I wanted a tall vase so I scaled X and Y up to 125% and Z up to 200%. Ill post a pic on this comment when it finishes.

I have a question:
which is the best print speed at the beginning for the PLA at a temperature, as you suggest, of 187 degrees?
Thank you very much

I am a beginner for 3D printing. I have a question. the downloaded file seems to be stuffed inside when I see it on my computer. Did I do something wrong?

Hi. No, you're seeing things right. These models are solid and to print vases with them you have to use printing software that allows you to turn off infill and turn off the top solid layers of the model. The cool thing about that is that the wall thickness is totally variable depending on your printer and material.

The down side is that proprietary software made for a specific brand of printer (like Makerware) may or may not let you print this as a vase. Most of the open source/free software out there (Slic3r, Cura) will allow you to do it, as will closed titles like Simplify3D and KISSlicer.

Hopefully that makes sense.

I figured out how to get around this. turn off the end caps. right click the thingy goto convert to editable poly then in modifier add SHELL

it will now have thickness and will print correctly. I am making body tube skins for model rockets and thats what I needed to get makerbot to stop adding top and bottom caps to my models.

questions. how did you make the gear tooth pattern? I can't figure our what option does that in 3ds (extremely new to 3ds I know nothing i did not find in a youtube video :-)

Thank you very much!
It really helps and I will download some open source/free software and try it again. Thank you very much again!

P.S.. why the designer(?) of vases dosen't make the file finalized? Any specific reasons? just curiosity.

I use 187 for pla

Hi, thank you for sharing this. Could you just upload the hollow STL with a normal thickness? (0.5 - 1mm)

Printed this with approx 180mm/s today on my Ultimaker - works like a charm, looks amazing. Will try one in Laywood

Just slice the top of it with meshmixer otherwise (shall I post a derivative?): open the STL, place it as viewed from the side, select the top vertices by dragging your rectangle, then cut them, and re-export to STL.

Are you talking about the instructions?
By removing the top vertices/polys from the model you would create a "hole" in the mesh which then would require you to add a wall thickness to the walls and floor of the object.  I and many other have found that doing so produces issues with slicing programs trying to appropriately fill the wall. Plus, then your design is next to impossible to scale.   By printing as though the object is solid, but with zero infill, your wall thickness is determined by the number of perimeters you have   Creates cleaner smoother walls and easy scalability.  

No, it really did work (with Cura / Ultimaker).

You even made the top image of my review about wooden filament at http://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/review-wood-filament.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot....


Huh, interesting.  I think slic3r would complain pretty loudly, but it's worth some testing.  
Beautiful print, by the way!  Wood filament - I'm intrigued!

who is going to sue and why?
It's not a real gear profile, is it?

No one is going to sue, it's just an expression. I had just posted a different lamp/vase thing.

It is not a specific gear profile.  Just shaped like a gear.