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Tilting Router Lift

by brianfroelund Oct 21, 2018
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Hi an chance getting a non tilting version ? i really dont need that

Great job, print started !

One question, what are these two holes for? -> http://prntscr.com/oxmu68

Those are access holes for grub/set screws that control the tightness of the dovetail slide.

This is a fantastic design, thank you very much!
You printed it with 0.2mm layer height?
Best wishes from Bavaria

Thank you. I printed all the parts using 0.15mm layer height. But I'm sure 0.2 will work as well. The gears and knobs (with the internal threads) will properly benefit the most from a slightly higher resolution but I think that even those parts should work just fine using 0.2.

I already printed the dovetail slide with 0.3mm (I'm a little impatient) and had to trim the M10 thread using a thread cutter. Worked flawlessly. Nevertheless I will print the knobs and caps with a higher resolution. Thanks again and all the best

If you recut the threads that should work perfectly fine. For the M10 thread there is also the backup solution to put in a nut and just drill the hole out a bit. Please share your results and post a make if you manage to get everything together :)

wahou great job!!!
I have a CNC Brooch to put in router table! Do you think it is possible to use the CNC's fastening system to the router lift?
Can you add an image of the fastening system of your router please?
thanls a lot for the job !!!

Sorry. I don't quite understand the question. Are you referring to how the router bit is fastened to the router? If so that is just a simple collet.

Or are you saying that you have a CNC spindle that you would like to mount to the router lift?

Thank you for designing and uploading this. I'm going to print this.
Just looking at the parts in my slicer and wondering why there is a thread in the "dovetail_slide" as there is a gap for a nut snuggling in.
The nut itselfe should be good enough to wind it up or down, don't you think?

The hole for the nut was made as a backup if the printed threads didnt work out. If you end up using a nut you should drill out the holes for the rod a bit. I haven't installed a nut myself and it's still working perfectly fine.

Any way possible that you have a mount for routers with a body at 3.5"/88.5mm diameter? I have a Craftsman digital plunge router model 27669 and the 100mm is much too small.

88,5 < 100. I can make a holder for that just fine. Would you like that?

any word on when you might be able to make this file?

Yes if it's not too much trouble that would be awesome!!

I really want to do it but it will be a while before I have time. I can share the fusion 360 files with you if you like. Send me a pm.

Sent you a pm last week with my email, haven't heard anything from you yet. Did you get my on?

Would this work? Please verify measurements .

measurements are good, had a friend print it out for me the other day, its a bit snug but it should work fine. Thanks again.

measurements look good, I will not be able to print for some time as I use printers at work and will have to make special accomodations for the 22 hour print time. Thanks for taking care of this for me.

The rail (part a) seems to have a smaller piece (along the full rail length) which is not fixed to the main object. Is this intentional or should there be no gap in between the both?

That is intentional, to allow adjust how tight the slider should fit in the rail using grub screws.

What is the router clamp diameter. I will be using a different router brand so I'm not sure if it needs modified. Thanks

65mm diameter holder. What do you need?

I have printed up to rail v2 all parts =) it would be helpful if there were pictures of the assembly. Do you have something like that?

I do not unfortunately. I would like to make it when I get a bit of time :) Until then please post questions here and I will try and answer them.

If I use abs to print these parts, do I need to change their scale?I am worried that it will not fit the hardware you listed.

Sorry but I have never printed with ABS myself. I would try printing a small section of one of the parts you are worried about and see if it fits.

Thank you very much for your reply. I am also looking forward to your next machine work .just like "pantorouter"

Hi, Very nice. I would like to build it also with the table which looks realy nice also. Do you share your Fusion 360 Design maybe?
Do you share your table sizes?

I do not understand how the allen bolt (green one) is made for the knob´s. Cay you share any picture? Or do you use green socket head bolts?

Many thanks


I would like to share the fusion design. But it's in a bit of a messy state right now. I want to clean it up a bit and then I will share it. The green part of the knob is just a cover and also helps keep in the bolt head.

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This is amazing! I have been looking to buy something of the tilting router variety for ages but nobody makes them. The only options are huge overhead tilting routers or a tilting spindle moulder, neither of which i have the space or money for. I saw the wooden version you based this off and have considered making my own but without a table saw to make accurate cuts, i was not convinced it would be fit for purpose. Saying that, im not sure how well this will hold up being made from plastic but it is definitely worth a go.

Currently printing the dovetail rail using your recommended settings but with a 0.6mm nozzle at 0.3mm layer heights running at 80% speed and it is looking to take around 20 hours. A bit nicer than the 46 hours yours took with a 0.4mm nozzle im guessing. I should end up with a stronger end result too (i hope) due to the thicker extrusion widths fusing the layers together better and giving a thicker outer shell. I will report back once i have finished printing the parts and let you know how it all works out.

I have a few questions

  1. There are quite a few unused holes in the design as far as i can tell, why is this? is it material saving or is there some other reason like attempting to stop warping?

  2. Is there any chance you could extend the slots on the tilt locks to allow the tilt to go maybe 10 degrees past the upright position? I know the way it is designed means it will not go that far because the table will stop it but the way i plan to use it, i can have an opening in the table big enough to accommodate the extra movement.

Thank you. I have updated the hinge locks to accommodate for 10 degrees more travel.
I find that the router lift is quite study once assembled. Sounds like a good idea to print it with a larger nozzle. I'm actually a bit of a novice when it comes to 3d printed so i just used my default print settings only changing perimeters and infill amount.

Extra threaded holes are just for whatever you can come up. I have for example been working on a mount for a digital caliber to use as a depth gauge. Simple as that :)

Really appreciate you doing that. Would have take me forever. I have printed and assembled the whole thing in abs and other than the lifting part being a bit tight, the thing works great. I will post my 'make' when I figure out how.
To answer the question above about using abs, I had to file nearly every hole out a bit but I think that was more likely due to the 0.3mm layer heights and 0.6mm nozzle. Not sure I would suggest printing some of the parts in abs unless a build chamber is being used to keep warping at bay.

Thanks again for your awesome design

This is really awesome. I am in the middle of building a paulk workbench, and also happen to have the same router. I'm printing this out now, then will work out how to integrate it. I think the only issue might be access to the handle, but I think I can work something out.

Some questions:

  • Ignore This This screenshot you shared it kind of what I was looking for. Do you have some pictures of the internals of the lift? Some of the hardware listed out isn't visible in the pictures and it might just help a bit in understanding how it all goes together. In other words, if you took your 3d model and hid the router and router/mount, and added a picture of that side, it might be a bit more clear.
  • Did you get all the hardware from a specific place? Wanted to ask before I try to source it. The last project I used boltdepot, which was a really good experience, but some of those components I'm not sure they'd have.

Do you need the tilt function? If not you could draw a non-tilting mount for the rail part and that would make it much easier to extend the lock knob and height adjustment using some threaded rod and then placing them easily accessable on the outside of your bench. If it has interest I could add some threaded holes on the large gear so you could mount an extension.

I am not from the US, I had most of the hardware already and supplemented from a local hardware store. I'm pretty sure a place like McMaster-Carr will have all of it.

Still thinking about it some at this point, printing the parts out to play around with. I don't really need the tilt functionality, but it could be nice to keep if possible. The idea of extending the control out makes sense though.

When pricing the parts out in the US, the thing that struck me was the cost of both the threaded rod (~$13) and the pins (~$5 each). If alternatives could be found for both of these, the cost of hardware would come down a bit. Using standard threaded rod and bolts or bolts with 608zz bearings for the tilt brackets could bring the cost from ~$40-$45 to $20-$25. I looked at boltdepot, mcmaster-carr, and fastenal and they were all comparable. The rest of the fasteners I don't think you could really save money on.

Or, at the cost of the threaded rod, you could pick up a lead screw with a anti-backlash nut. This got me thinking down a rabbit hole of borrowing from cnc router z-axis designs and using an arduino and simple controls to zero out the measurement control the offset relative to that with a stepper motor.

For now, I'm making some small modifications to use standard bolt sizes for the threaded rod and will go from there.

If you make a mod for standard US hardware can you post it as a Remix? Would be much appreciated :)

If you check the makes you can see a guy who used partially threaded bolts instead of pins, might be a cheaper option. I would like to do a imperial sized hardware version but I haven't gotten around to it yet. I actually had this running with a stepper motor at one point with a control display and everything. It's unnecessary complicated though and adds limited value. A DRO using a caliper is still in the works :)

Hi, this looks brilliant however i cant fit the rail onto my 200 x 200 bed, can you think of a way round this, ive had a look at chopping it in a few places but the glueing back would mean its pretty weak. is there any way you could do that part in 2 halves so that it can be screwed or bolted back together.

Thank you.

Thank you. I have shortened the rail a bit (10 mm shorter) and included two alternative files to print the rail in two parts, and put them together using two 25mm m6 socket head screws. I haven't tried it out but I think it should work just fine. It's rail_v2_split_part_a.stl and rail_v2_split_part_b. Let me know if you have any issues and please do post a make if you manage to get things working :)

Fantastic, once i print these out i will let you know, not sure how long that will be, xmas, new year, shed make over to much on my plate didnt think you would have done it that quick. thank you so much.

Oh wow, I was looking for something like that!
That's my winter project.
Thank you

Thanks. Let me know if you have any issues and please share if you get it done :)

Hi. Could you tell me what the m6 grub screws are for? I've printed one. So far so good.

Sounds great! Let me know if you have any problems. The grub screws are for getting rid of any slack in the dovetail mechanism.

You put them in after the slide. Then you ensure that the slide moves with the same resistance across the dovetail by tightening the grub screws.

Please share when you have something working!

Got the grub screws. Fantastic. Now there's 0 play on the z axis. Fantastic design. I did add a another m10 nut just below the small gear just so that it doesn't unscrew itself. And I didn't squeeze the m10 nut into the dove slider. The threads in it are holding pretty well plus the lock nut for the slider makes it all very secure. Printed it in petg and used superlube to lube it all up. Now to mount it under the table.

Comments deleted.

It’s Woodgears green!

Not a coincidence :D