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Mechanical Iris Ring Box

by fodork6 Oct 18, 2018
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Would using aluminum tubes work as well?

I've started printing this and am wondering why the the elevator slots need to be glued to the blade actuator, rather than printing both as one piece? Is it possible to print as one piece? Thanks!

You can and I would recommend that actually.

does this work? how come there aren't any MAKES for this thing?

Wow, people got it to work! YES!

I made this too. I'll post a make soon.

I thought it didn't work either. But I just made one and it does in fact work. Will upload a make now


I just got my parts for this printed for popping the question soon! A question for fodork6 or anyone who did this build - is the rail supposed to sit flush in the depression at the bottom of the body? Mine doesnt fit fully in there, so before I remove material to get it to fit I wanted to confirm that it's intended to fully sit in that depression.

EDIT: Yes, it's meant to, and it fits just fine once I dremeled out some material all around.

Yes, I also had that issue. Had to burr the edge to fit it.

I've been thinking about improving much of this design: For example, having a key-way for the rails, so they can only fit one way and remove some ambiguity.Also, making the rails easier to snap in place. But, I have to finish some other projects first and wait for work to get less busy!

I cannot get the blades on the box for the life of me. Can you upload a how-to video on how to assemble it? Thank you!

If you haven't figured it out yet - you actually have to assemble the iris counterclockwise; once you get to the a point where it seems like you cant layer it on top any more, you actually have to place the iris parts under the previously placed iris parts.

I finally figured it out. And yes, that is correct. It would be nice if the pins were a bit more sturdy, but I did get it to work.

Apologies for the unclear instructions. I'll try and make a video tutorial for the assembly sometime in the coming weeks!

Any chance you could upload the solidworks files too?

I second this - the tree is hard to print, and the ability to replace that with a less complex design would be helpful!

I uploaded the SolidWorks file for the body. Customize away!

Thanks for uploading this beautiful design :) I just started printing the outer shell in wood fill PLA.

For all the Europeans(and non-Imperial users out there), here is a list of the needed materials translated to all metric - make relevant roundings based on your best judgement if needed:
Materials list:
1x 8mm alu rod, 53mm long
3x 8mm alu rod, 8mm long
4x 3.175mm alu rod, 7,62mm long
4x roller bearings: Outer Diameter 9.525mm, Inner Diameter 3.175mm
3x 4mm diameter machine screws and fitting nuts (#8 machine screws)

I have a question!
I live in a different part of the world where we don't use the Imperial system - would the functuinality break if I changed the part settings to fit more readily available parts? Or is it like a domino effect where if I change one measurement everyhing else crumbles?

I used loose tolerances, so everything should work with slightly different hardware. Are 3.175mm aluminum rods readily available in your country? If so, it would be the same as using the 1/8" stock. Also, using the #8 screws should be fine as well.

If you have metal parts that are a bit too large, you can always ream out the 3d printed plastic, or carve small portions off. When I first printed this version of the ring box design, I found that it would work even if it was missing one of the 8mm or 1/8" rods, or even without one of the bearings, so a domino effect sounds unlikely.

Also, thank you very much for providing a metric parts list!

Those are direct translations, I don't think anyone in my area produces to two-digit fractions, so it'd be either 3.1 or 3.2 rods. When I buy stuff that's readily available, if I make it works well, I'll make sure to post a list of what I used to substitute the Imperial measurement parts :D
Thanks for your reply, I'll give it a shot :D It's all printed, I just need the parts to arrive now

Is there any chance that it's a 623zz bearing? 623zz has ID 3mm OD 10mm W 4mm pretty close right?

Those dimensions are pretty close, but I can't guarantee that they'll fit. The part number on MSC was 35433200. Here's the link: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/35433200?rItem=35433200

Can you give me a link to the roller bearings I can't seem to find them anywhere

nearing finished with printing and it is missing the blade actuator, short on time to finish it.... where do i get this file???

The missing parts were added to the list recently. Check the files again; you'll see it.

the common salmon skin effect the tevo tornado is known for ass to the wood like look beautifully .... cant afford wood fil pla so mine is being printed entirely in clear pla and painted where i feel the need, thank you for the added parts list

you are missing a pice could you please add it

Just uploaded it!

could you all so re upload the video it wont load

I am not seeing the STL for the "blade actuator".... Please Add!!! Thank You!!!!

Just uploaded it!

Thank you for uploading the missing parts.

About the blades: I have some trouble to print them, because they are just only 3 Layers high, So I have no mechanical strenghtness to the nipple. Looking to your pictures it looks to be stabler.
How many Layers are your Blades printed?
Thanks in advanced.

I'm not sure about number of layers; I'll re-slice the .STL later today and check. But, I can tell you that layer thicknesses of 0.1 and 0.15 will work well. Also, they are supposed to be easy to bend.

EDIT: The actual "blade" part is 3 layers thick, while the "pin", or "nipple" is 13 layers thick. This is assuming your printer is set to 0.15mm thick layers.

Oh no! You're absolutely correct. I'll upload the missing part ASAP, which is probably early tomorrow.

Thanks for the heads-up!


Very fancy.
But - I think there are objects missing, didn't it?
The object(s) from the first picture in the assambly instruction. The inner green container.
Am I right?

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