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RifRaf Terraforming Mars Tiles Full Set

by Srifraf Oct 14, 2018
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I love painting, so I won't be changing out filament. For those like me, Citadel has a great Martian technical paint. I primed in tan, then painted with the technical paint. Shaded with Reikland Fleshshade (also citadel) then dry brushed with a bone color. Sealed with a matte clear. I already have a different tile set, but I like these designs better and will be replacing some (that nuke!). I have an Ender 3.

That's sounds great, if you like it may be a good idea to just print the base layer a different color with a height of .2mm -then change filament, if you are using Cura there is a command now to easily do this... the reason for this is you will then be able to see all the emblems and logos on all the tiles.

Love the designs! I started simple and just finished the ocean tiles. Does anyone have any recommendations for alternative PLA colors for the "Golden" and "Red/Brown"? Most the listed colors are sold out. Also, for those of you who painted these, what type of paint did you use? Thank you in advance for any tips!

I did a set with Hatchbox PLA Copper color that I could hardly tell any difference from the Golden, the Red/Brown I have not found anything else really compatible yet, Tainse Silver Metal PLA has been great too...my sources have been Iprint3d.com and 3dprintingcanada.com... I have not painted these but I have many other things and just some satin acrylic 2oz paints from places like Michaels work great, if you want to get a little more elaborate look up drybrushing and paint washes on YouTube for some good techniques...hope this helps some, maybe some others want to comment as well...

Thanks for the feedback!

these are amazing. Getting my very first printer tomorrow (Ender 3). This is going to be my first under taking after a few test prints. Anything I should know in advance? Im 100% noob lol.
Did a quick run through of the read me. WIll go through again once Im ready.

See the post below: and some other posts on the Ender and first layer..... should work great for you...
Srifraf - in reply to Jesfa
Mar 21, 2019
There is a gcode there for a mining tile... to start with something simple for a couple filament changes... use 2 or 3 different colors... as with most first advise ..spend some time and testing to get your bed leveled and that first layer perfect...Happy Printing!

cool. thanks for the heads up. What program do you use? I just downloaded Cura 4.0

One other thing.. my print bed was badly bowed from the get go and I ended up getting a Creality coated glass bed that I have just clamped on, used with magigoo solution has been fantastic to get things to stick well with no lifting and then once the bed cools to below 28 degrees C you start to hear a cracking sound and the parts just lift off the bed by hand... just another thing to make the entire process just a bit easier...

I have used Cura 3.6 and found it OK, crazy how some prints work very good in Cura and not Slic3r and some are not so good and excellent in Slic3r..but I found more consistent results with the color change command in Slic3r Prusa edition Alpha 5 with a Ender config change, but I have not tried printing yet with Cura 4.0 to know if it is improved. I have an Ender 3 Pro and a original Prusa Mk2s, both have pros and cons. IF you are planning to do a ton of color changing then I recommend you get the direct drive aluminum adapter (I got mine from 3D printing Canada) for the Ender3... you have to print a bit slower but filament changes are supper easy now.

Awesome work! The 2019 tiles are even cooler. So much detail I'm thinking if I should switch to the .25mm nozzle and print forever hmmm...

I can print multi material (5 colors at once) and I was wondering what is the best way to split the models for the separate colors. I could try MeshMixer for the simpler models, but on the more complex ones I don't think I'd be able to do the splits right. Think of green tiles with 2 types of green (darker green for fir trees), brown for tree trunks, and color for the base. Any ideas on the easiest way?

I posted the base emblems and logos below in another post that could help a bit with the first layers, if I had step files I would pass them on but I only have STL files... I cant take the time to separate everything but maybe if you gave me 6 items or so that are the more difficult I could render them as separate STL's if that would help, but I don't know if it would be any different than what you would be doing...... out side of that not sure what else I could do...

Love these! Amazing work! We're having a problem getting the icons and such on the bottom to print though. Seems like no matter what we do it just ends up flat with nothing there. We tried printing the test mining area tile you did for Jesfa, and we got a bit of it, but it was really messy.
Using PLA filament and cura for our gcode. Powerspec I3 Plus printer.
Pretty new to 3D printing, so it's probably something simple we've overlooked. Thanks!!!

The inlay is only .2mm deep... so accordingly your first layer must be set to .2mm, then for good detail the rest of the layers set at .15... in cura slow the first layer down to no faster than 30mm/s...and make sure you get a good squish on the first layer...real thinlike…if you want to do a manual filament change... watch the LCD screen.. the z Height number should start at .2... immediately when it changes to .35 then hit a "change filament" command... and change to a different color... you must not move any of the axis.. X,Y or Z in your filament change... when the printer moves the head over to do a change and purge ...After you have inserted the new filament have a quick look at that first layer... it should be a good even layer with "crisp" lines at the borders and inside you should see the emblem cutout clearly... if this first layer is not "clean" then cancel the print .. readjust your bed height to get a good squish and try again...also because the layers are so thin, the second layer will really just fill in the space and form one solid fist layer... so if you don't use a different color it will be hard to tell there was a cut out there... let me know if this helps... 95% of the time it all depends on getting that first layer squish exactly right...on normal prints without an early filament change sometimes after several layers any inconsistencies, gaps or bumps in the first few layers just work themselves out... however because we are needing real precision in the first few layers you have to get it right from the get go...let me know how you make out... I'm happy to help in any way I can

We changed the first layer settings, but still no go. It doesn't look like the printer is even trying to print the words, it just goes straight to printing a flat base. The words show in Cura. Is the software maybe removing that when it converts it to gcode?

That's tricky... are you sure your top and bottom layers are not set to 0... you will need at least 3 if not more top, bottom and perimeters walls... also check that you have not lowered the tile below the plain in cura that shows the print bed… what size is you print bed?... also do you know if your printer software is Marlin (I think it is)... if it is I will make you a basic gcode and see if it does anything different...

I see that I can lower the object, but I can't raise it any. It's set to 0 so hopefully it's not cutting anything off. Initial layer set to .2. There's bottom/top thickness option, is that what I need? Print bed is 8x8x7. Not sure what software we have, it's whatever came with it.

EDIT: Just started printing a couple more, and it's now printing the words and symbols. The only difference is I have the 'Build Support Structure' on (for the Stratopolis tile).

Here is a profile for the i3 Plus in Cura if you want to give that a go... assuming you have a .4mm nozzle though...

By the way the mining tile gcode will start with a double line down the length of the left side of the bed...then home.. pause for temp and then move to the center to start printing... it should pause after the first layer finishes for the filament change...

Ok, well that's good news for a start...yes the top and bottom thickness is very important... in cura it is kind of confusing but basically for 2 outer perimeters with a .4mm nozzle the wall setting should be 0.8mm... that shows you have 2 walls in the wall line count tab... you may want to start with some more basic tiles though, Stratopolis is complicated with supports. I have attached a gcode for the mining tile to start, but I am assuming a few things... it is set up for a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus.. so I assume your printer is based off this model and has the original firmware that is Marlin... another thing I did not cover is what size nozzle are you using... should be no bigger than a .4mm -that is what this gcode is based off, if the nozzle is bigger let me know but if it is you will not get the level of detail you want out of it... there will be a filament change command at the second layer at .35mm and another filament change command at 3.5mm -you should for the first few tries be near your printer to see how things go and be at the printer ready to change filament when the height reaches these numbers...

That all did the trick! It's printing everything just fine now. Thanks so much for your assistance!

That's great... can you let me know what worked though just so I have an idea if something like this comes up again... thanks

Unfortunately I'm not 100% sure. Changing the top & bottom thickness and initial layer thickness mainly? Turns out a set I printed before the one I mentioned above printed correctly, too. Somewhere along the way we got the settings right for it.

Hoping I could get some help. I don't feel confident doing the multicolor sets, just getting into 3D printing, and these are awesome enough that mono-color will more than suffice.

My issue Im running into is that I cant seem to get any real definition out of the text/logo on the bottom of the tiles. They constantly look smooshed, or as thought the infill covers up the text/logo to the point its difficult to read without the right angle.

Is there a way to make the bottom layer a bit taller or something in the slicer, or some other method to keeping the text and icon more definitive? I'll throw up a photo later if what I'm saying doesn't make sense. Could be something really simple I'm just not understanding. Thanks!

Hi I just posted the files above... they are solid at .5mm height. I did not do the text for every file as I assume that would be easy to add just text yourself when you compile things.

Heres an photo of what I'm talking about, maybe it'll make more sense. The print I made wasn't the best quality, I was messing around with ABS and it was the only tile I had sitting next to me, but what I'm referring to should be seen there. In your example photo of the forest, Granted, they're two colors, so the symbol is going to show better no matter what, but you've also got a good layer separation where the gold and maroon are. With the single color, as you can see, their basically is no separation, you can only really read/see based on the infill angles being different.

Really new to this, so forgive me if this is a stupid thing :)

I can see the emblem there and the different direction of the next layer, so it appears the "cutout" is working for the first layer... Just for a test... be sure your first layer is set to .2mm and the rest to .15... if you have another color of filament exactly when the z height changes from .2 to .35 on the LCD … hit the change filament command and change to another color...then resume...you just need to run a few layers to see what it looks like.... in regards to the overall print... it does look like any of three things effecting the quality here.. either too high a bed or filament temp or way too much squish on the bed and it is deforming what should be good sharp lines...you need just the right balance to get to stick, but not be deformed...and with the fan not running on the first layer the filament can stay a bit soft and flow around a bit... especially when the nozzle comes around for another pass...

Do you have any PLA?... it would be nice to get it going on something a little easier than having to get that first layer right with ABS... something that has never been consistent with me... if the fist layer is not a clean hex with a clean cutout... no point in going any further... cancel , readjust temps or squish and try again... sometimes takes me 2-3 times to get it going good....

I got some red ABS from a local store on sale because I was looking for red and couldn't find any in PLA anywhere locally. I thought I'd test it out on some of the special tiles. Since those tiles and everything else I've used the ABS on, I'm never buying ABS again :P

It likely has to do with the temperature of the room etc, but ABS refuses to give me even a halfway decent full print. There's always warping, layer splitting or one of a hundred problems. PLA has been pretty steady for me, but for the bottom icons, both appeared to have the same issue. It may be my first layer settings are funky. I'll take a peek.

If its not too horribly inconvenient, I'd love to see your slicer profile if you'd be able to share.

What printer do you have?

Ender 3, running PLA on Cura.

How about we try a test.... Here is a gcode for the simple Mining rights tile, its the easiest to try tests on. It is set up for printing on a standard Ender 3 with no mesh bed leveling (if you have that let me know and I will change it), with a standard .4mm nozzle… as is with every print it is essential that your bed be as level as possible in the middle area of the bed where it will print the tile and your z height is set for a good but not too much squish... cant stress enough that 90% of 3d printing is getting that first layer right.... I am assuming your printer has not been flashed... if it has let me know because the filament change has to be enabled..If it is not emables you will not find it in the TUNE menu WHILE printing... if that is the case the printer will just print the entire tile non stop.... not to scare you but there are 2 filament changes built into the code...For the first layer start with one color of PLA, the first layer is .2mm high... right at the start of the second layer at .35mm the printer should do a filament change command and move the head over to the front left side, park and beep for bit…you should be ready with a second roll ready to load and try to be as quick as you can... you will change out the filament as you normally would... but be very careful to not move any of the axis's… especially the z axis up or down... carefully remove the filament and replace it with a second color...pushing all the way into the head... then press the button... the printer will purge some filament and ask if you want to continue or purge more... if it looks good press continue... and grab the purged filament from being pulled to the print... the printer will continue to print until a height of Z 3.5mm and do another change command... go through the same routine again with a different color ... it is not real hard to do... just the first time is a bit scary... Two things to note: don't move the axis when changing the filament... if you do it will not restart correctly...and lastly be near the printer for this first test... if you miss the filament change time then the head has to be reheated and can cause issues... so be ready... So what do you think … up to try? If this works I can tell you how to go about defining this in cura or on the printer...

Looks like there is an error in the research outpost - the radar dish is duplicated like 6 times stacked on each other. Is that done to avoid supports?

Done that way to be thicker for strength and be printed with a .4mm nozzle, as well as kind of looks cool when printed...

Thanks for your designs. The best looking tiles I´ve ever seen.

Tank you very much for those designs. They are awesome and the printing work very well.

I did upload just a couple days ago some tweaks to all the files -the tree one as well to tweak so there are no individual trees and is stronger...so be sure you have all the most recent files please, I would start with a redownload...especially the new special cities with the labels too...I do batch 16 cites together with 8 just as they are and 8 mirrored along the X OR the Y axis (but not both axis, that just rotates the tile)...the same with a set of 17 tree tiles that I print twice for a full set... the cities takes 28 hours and the trees 22. I do know those two files have a ton of detailed triangles in them, so it could take some time to process... but even with 16 or tiles it only takes about 20-30 seconds to end up with a gcode ...so... something must be off... could the detail just be too low...I print at .15 layer height ..could you be much lower than say .1...or .08?... Also no supports are needed... the only tiles that needs supports is Stratopolis.
To be honest I have not encountered a similar problem that you are experiencing when I have had a good stl file, I use Slic3r and Cura to slice and no one has reported a similar experience yet. I did just recheck the city and tree file in Netfabb just to be sure and it shows a solid with no errors...SO... Could you try this... the layers in the tiles are set to specific heights… so could you try just a couple tiles set to an initial layer of .2.. and every layer thereafter to .15... infill of at most 20% and 3 perimeter layers... if you try this and get a good gcode… that's a start... and if you look much lower the post you will see I have listed all the layer height color changes...these settings correspond to those layer heights... that is if you wanted to print multicolored tiles... I am not otherwise experienced in S3D to know what to say, just that I have noticed some differences between the two slicers I have and it sometimes has taken a few tries in each to get working well.. Also there are other sets of groups you can do together in multicolor if you look at the layer heights to group accordingly...
I wish I knew more to help you... let me know how you make out

Yeah, I am doing them multi-color and I am printing with more detail than you seem to recommend. .08 with 20% fill and 4 walls. I also have been setting the color change based on layer number rather than actual layer height. So When I do the cities, I'll try your settings, thanks! Where is the setting in Cura to mirror? I looked all over and can't find it. But Cura seems to hide things. Oh, and what I am printing was downloaded this morning, so I should have the most up to date files.

Also, I have used Slic3r to gcode and then Prusa Colorprint to set the filament change into the gcode…I have it working well on my Prusa Mk2s but on my Ender 3 I have to do filament changes manually... I assume on your Cr-10 it is the same... if you are doing it manually then you can go by the Z: height number off the LCD screen to show a corresponding Z -height rather than just the layer numbers... for some reason every time I have tried the "change filament" post scripts in Cura they have not worked correctly for me... if I have more than one change it misses them..

Down the left side of the Cura screen are some icons for -Open File, Move, Scale, Rotate, mirror...

Perfect. thanks!

I am printing these now. I am trying to batch print the trees and city tiles. First, how did you mirror the city? Second, I have a pretty beefy PC, but in S3D for some reason the city tiles kill it. I can slice a single tile, but if I try to slice more than 1 it hangs on calculation infill forever. ... Well more than 10 minutes which is all I was willing to wait. The trees won't slice in S3D either, but they did eventually slice in a group of 10 in Cura. Any idea why I might be having trouble?

Reminder... all the special city tiles and expansion tiles will have a update this week with labels… so wait on printing those tiles till the new files are up..

Hi Rif. love the designs but is it possible to have the files without logo/icon on the bottom aswell? the layer with the logo is so spastic for my 3d printer it doesnt stick. ever. tried reprinting genericcityfinal like 10 times. skirt goes well and then the first layer starts and its a mess. the old version without logo printed just fine. Hope this is possible! thanks in advance

If you have time also and want to try and get the emblems... I would suggest you try and really squish down that first layer... like really flat so it sticks good on a clean build plate...you will know in the first half minute or so... if it is not sticking cancel and readjust the z settings and try again... to get this to work it will be all about that first layer.. .just a suggestion... would be nice if you can get that to work...

wow. thanks for the quick responses. I will try them out ASAP. just now got a greenery tile going (with logo). this emblem is easier to handle. also thought it might help to set print speed for first layer at 10. but i dont know how to adjust speed per layer

What slicer are you using?

cura 3.6. I'll have to change it in the gcode manually I expect. will try the files you send when I get home

No need for gcode change...you probably know this... but under each of the sub headings down the Right side tabs in Cura… in CUSTOM mode... there is a little gear icon for settings.. click on the one by SPEED … it will open a huge sub menu that you can select what setting you would like to change... there is probably 60 or so check box for changes under speed alone... one of them being "initial layer speed" wall speed, infill speed etc... have a look... for each of the headings there is a pop up menu or just scroll up or down in the pop up... there are hundreds of adjustment you can add... cura is very powerful for customization this way...

I found the options and adjusted several. settings I am running at now is

initial layer thickness 2 and normal layer thickness at 0.15.
initial speed at 15 and normal speed at 30.
25%infill as suggested but I might up it a bit as the initial top layer of the base keeps sagging down in the infill gaps a bit.

and with the files without logo's I am printing away happily now

Thanks for the help!

when the collection is finished I will add photos to the "make" section

If you are not printing in different colors and want to... You can only check this while a print is going on... On your Ender while printing ...on the LCD click the "TUNE" command... scroll down and see if you have a command called "Change Filament"...don't click it now... but IF you do have that command there let me know... I will walk you through how to change colors at different levels... the command may or may not be there...it is not difficult to do but I want to tell you some important tips for it if It is there...

Glad some are working for you... Ya... bridging is sometimes an issue in Cura, it could be the temp is a bit high, crazy as it seems you could try this...have a look and see in the layers preview the direction of that initial top layer... then rotating the model 45 degrees and reslicing… then have a look…and if need be change your "infill pattern" ...have a look at a few... if it looks like it may be a bit better spanning the openings in a different direction .. then save that way and reprint... If I run into any bridging issues with Cura prints I then slice in Slic3r with the "detect bridging" selection on... seems to alleviate some problems...

Here is a generic city and trees without the emblems to get started on in the mean time...to add just a bit of variety when you print ..mirror half of what you print along the x OR y axis, but not both.... then you will have some cities facing one way -some the other...

Just looking now... not every tile is precisely 90 degrees dead on... so for this to work the hex needs to be dead centered to the tile.. does that make sense? How familiar are you with the software?

Can you try this... attached is 2 plain hexes... one orientated pointing left and right, and one orientated point up and down... it is the exact hex that fills the body of each tile... if you import into your slicer one of these hexes and a city tile for example at the same time then they should superimpose over one another on the build plate... you can group if you like... then print...and likely even resave the STL depending on the slicer you are using... that will fill in just the base of the tile where the emblem is..it is important that whatever orientation the tile is.. you match the hex orientation to it... let me know if it works for you... I would have to open and do the same as this to about 40 different tiles to remove the base inlay...and them remix and repair each.. sooooo… hoping this works for you

I'm loving these tiles, have most tiles done printing and makes the game look amazing. I'm having issues with the trees though. Some of them are floating a few mm above the landscape and break off easily after/during printing. Especially the one lone tree that doesn't touch anything else. There are also a few prone to dislodge while printing halfway but the rest of the tree prints on top of it so it doesn't look too bad from above. I've been super gluing the lone tree back and just tried adjusting the mesh in Fusion 360 a bit to push the lone tree into it's neighbors and get the rest of the trunks below the surface but it's not an easy task. Would that be something easily fixed with your original models?

Here is an updated file... I made sure as far as I can tell all the trees are in the base and there are no single trees left to themselves... let me know how it prints please… I will upload it to the post later as thingiverse seems to have some speed issues right now... wait on printing the expansion tiles as I have made some strength repairs and added logos and words to identify... I hope to post them this week after printing...

Thank you! This is perfect. Finally got to print one today and no more half toppled trees!

Reminder... all the special city tiles and expansion tiles will have a update this week with labels… so wait on printing those tiles till the new files are up..

These are amazing. I'm actually reprinting most of the stuff that I had already completed. I just wish they had been released a month earlier.
I did notice that the generic city's (TMCityGenericFinalREP.stl) first layer isn't .2mm high. I was looking at the layers and couldn't find out why it was showing the first layer being flat. when I changed the first layer to 1.5 it showed up. But I noticed TMCityImagrantFinalREP.old.stl did show up. So I just edited the generic one and swapped out the first .2mm so that I could print it as instructed. I'm not sure if anyone else had that issue. I haven't tried all of them, but I'm looking forward to seeing how it comes out.

Since you just posted I just uploaded a new Nuke and Gyropolis tiles that fit the storage trays better... so you may want to check those out. I cant seem to repeat in my slicer programs -both Slic3R and Cura what you encountered, both the Immigrant and CityGeneric tiles for me set at a .2mm first layer and .15mm subsequent layers seems to look fine and will do the inlay... so I am not sure what to try to remedy this... I have noticed an inconsistency in the Prusa ColorPrint software that sets the filament change height...for some it changes at the beginning of the layer and for some after that layer height has finished… for these tiles I begin with a regular print in the Golden color and then the first change to Red/Brown I input to be at .35mm -that is the END of the second layer...could be a software glitch maybe...? at any rate... glad you worked it out.

Thanks for the reply, I'm not sure what's going on, but it could be my slicer. It's not a big deal, since no one else seems to be having this issue, and I found a resolution. I am using Cura 3.2.1 I have the initial layer set to .2 and .15mm after that. I've gotten the pause print to work well on mine. I have two images, one is at .2 where the generic is solid, and the other is at .18 for the initial layer and it shows the. Top= Imagrant, Middle= Generic, Bottom= Ecological. So far only the generic has done this for me. I'll check out those new ones, it's going to take a while for me to get to those.

If I recall right I think I made the inlay cut out to be .19mm so as to not mess up a problematic ColorPrint with starting the next layer with overfill at .2mm... so that may have caused an issue, but not sure why it would be inconsistent with the different tiles, but thanks for letting me know I will keep it in mind if it comes up with any other makes...

I use a prusa MK3, and am wondering how you got the multi collored filament to work together? I currently use simplify 3d for my printing.

I used Prusa ColorPrint to add into the gcode a "Change Filament" command at a given height. Then I changed to a different color for the next layers and so on... I am not sure in Simplify 3D how you go about filament changes at layer heights...but you can of course change at any height manually as well.
Here is an example: (this is from the notes further in the posting...)
The Trees:
0-.35mm Golden (starting filament)
.35-3.35 Red/Brown (first change at .35)
3.35-5.15 Golden
5.15- Tainse Green

For the Standard cities:
0-.35 Golden (Starting filament)
.35-4.4 Red/Brown (first change at .35)
4.4-5.3 Golden
5.3- Silver

Hey, amazing models! I printed and painted them and it looks so much better than the cardboard thingys ^^

I have 2 suggestion for you, whitch would be extremely awesome if you were able to consider making them:

  1. The LavaFlow would be nice if it would be a giant volcano on whitch you could put your marker on top of it.
  2. There are two cards where you can place a forest tile on an ocean (Protectet Valley & Mangove), a custom tile for them would be nice.

Thx for sharing these models with us.

I just posted 4 bonus tiles here: Have a look, the "mangrove" one is just a more solid tree tile with the base printed in transparent blue and a logo added into the base.
I still have not redesigned the lava flows, I looked into a few volcanos or at least making the existing one bigger, the problem is that if I can I like the tile to reflect the image on the card that is played, and the lava flows is just that.. no volcano there...

RifRaf Terraforming Mars "Bonus Tiles"
by Srifraf

I will look into this...thanks

That would be amazing! I´m now printing my last tiles and the game is so much better with these. :)
Keep up the good work!

Awesome models!!!

One thing to note is they are slightly larger than the board hexes. Some require a bit of horizontal expansion making them even larger and then they won't fit. I learned this the hard way after printing most tiles and am now printing again everything at 97.6% - 98% scale. I suggest .15mm horizontal expansion as some details are super thin and get lost otherwise.

Maybe I will put it in the description to be clear...sorry for any confusion... they are made to be less than a half mm larger than the actual game tiles, I think .4 to .44mm large on the flats... the reason being you are very likely to butt these tiles up close to one another and if they were the actual size you will end up with a gap at the end of the row on the game board... the original tiles are meant to fit INSIDE the white border lines on the board... these are not... these are made to cover all the board including the white lines when played...an issue you may have is if your printer prints any type of "elephant" foot or any artifacts that are not trimmed..then by the end of a row they may stick out slightly … there is not much tolerance here and it could be to avoid any issues.. you could leave your tiles a bit loose on the board then you could print at perhaps a 98% scale

Hey id like to ask you something, can you tell me your email? Mine is kyungtaekster@gmail.com

Comments deleted.

These tiles are amazing! I've printed them all in Gray to start and have ordered multiple colors to print them properly. I do have a couple of questions:
1) would you be able to explain how to do a "cheater inlay"? I'm not exactly sure what you mean.
2) are you still using Tupperware or have you designed/used a printed solution? :)

Thanks again for the wonderful designs!

RifRaf Terraforming Mars Tiles Storage
by Srifraf

I just posted the last tile to be made - the Space Port for Colonies, so I think I will look into some sort of storage other than Tupperware, there is a couple good designs here that I can adapt I think.
The Cheater Inlay: the very first layer for example in the tree tile that is only .2mm has a tree cut out in that and only that layer, after the first layer has printed you do a filament change in a different color than the first layer, and the next layer to print is a solid layer and just sort of "fills" in the spot for the tree cutout and then prints the subsequent layers fine...so after the tile has printed the tree emblem looks like it was printed as an inlay... that make sense?

Waiting patiently for the storage solution :)

That would be the icing on the cake.

RifRaf Terraforming Mars Tiles Storage
by Srifraf

Nice. Will give it ago. Any supports?

I printed a test... everything fits except Gyropolis and the Nuke cloud...I may have to do a slight cutout for those... Stratopolis fits sideways..

No supports needed, but if there is an option in your slicer select "detect bridging perimeters" -there is a 90 degree small overhang on the underside of the middle triangles of the TOP pieces.. it is there as sort of a "platform" for the bottom of any tray set on top of that top piece and corresponds to the little bases under the BASE pieces that are there to grab and hold the piece while printing.... hope that makes sense..:)

I think I will try to expand them a bit and flatten out the bottoms and the tops... then print without supports, the problem currently with printing them without supports is that it ends up being 3 triangles printing on edge that have to join up higher in the print and it fails before it gets there.. so I will adapt then with flat bottoms to grip on the build plate...

In have adapted some storage containers found here on thingivers, I just expanded a 3 to a 4 bay and added the Terraforming logo, but I am having a serious difficulty printing, I tried with a base, and then with some impossible supports to remove... and they are 10-15 hours to print each so I think I am looking at a redesign...I can print them with a base I built in but then they will not be stackable.. I wanted to be able to have a 4 bay then on top a 3 bay then a 4 bay.. all fitting together...so it may be some time yet... I have to finish off some family stuff before Christmas... everything in detail just take so long to print, not enough hours in the day!

I did see this one and thought it would be a great option. Good luck in your attempts to get it working.

I think I will try to expand them a bit and flatten out the bottoms and the tops... then print without supports, the problem currently with printing them without supports is that it ends up being 3 triangles printing on edge that have to join up higher in the print and it fails before it gets there.. so I will adapt then with flat bottoms to grip on the build plate...

Perfect! I'll definitely do that. Do you program the filament change in at .2mm? Thanks for responding so quickly!

If you are using Prusa ColorPrint you can program it in... on mine I have a first layer at a .2 height and the rest at a .15... so in ColorPrint that means I am starting with for example the golden filament first but then the first change is recorded actually at .35 for the Red/brown, for some reason Color print reads the change as the Top level of the next layer... so .2 is the top of the first layer and .35 is the top of the second layer..but you are changing at the start of the second layer...

What an awesome set.
Any chance to add cities from expansions? There is one new city in Prelude expansion and 5 cities in Venus exp. (including cities on the Moon,
Merkur, Venus hill and floating in Venus clouds)

Tiles for all the expansions posted now...

I have posted the Venus Next tiles... I have not seen the Prelude card to see what the city looks like...
Here are the Venus Next Tiles: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3181781

RifRaf Terraforming Mars Venus Next Tiles Full Set
by Srifraf

I got a friend to send me a photo.
I would imagine something like your Noctis city, but a ravine instead of a crater.
Translation of flavour text goes something like:
Settlement in a lava tunnel
A big lava field provides protection in early settlement phases

Really great work, thanks for sharing.
I'm half way printing the set, and I'm having trouble with the cupola city. Any tips?

What is the issue and your print settings? I know when I printed for both the Capital and Cupola and even the Nuke, I had to print with at least a .15mm layer height... if I went to .10 they would fail.. the dome part is pretty thin there so I printed with a .4 Nozzle and .15 layer height... of course it is a balance of having enough "squish" and as high of a temperature as you can go for strength without getting excess stringing.

I'm still pretty new to 3d printing, I still have a lot to learn. I tried tinkering with the temperature, the speed and even the infill, but I didn't think that more layer height would make it sturdier... I'll try again after I finish the current print. Thanks for the input.

I only found that out from learning how to print a vase...and those domes are basically an inverted vase with holes... which has delicate thin walls... generally the thinner the layer height the better and finer the detail... but beyond a certain point it can effect the strength of the piece too much, a lot of people print their vases with a thicker layer not just to save time but for strength.. its always a compromise somewhere and will take some trial and error and with every piece being different and using different filaments sometimes it takes a few prints to succeed...don't be discouraged by print failures… I could fill a garbage bin full of tried prints that were just not quite good enough... Have fun!

You sir are amazing for providing these! You even provide a pdf that has a pic of the print with it's game icon! Makes it so much easier to figure out what is what. Thank you so much for these!

Thanks so much for the kind words and tip!

You're welcome! I'm currently printing off the set and will take photos once it's done. So excited to pimp my game out with these prints. :)

I have had success in other prints by lowering temps... Just before the print reaches the underside of the cloud... reduce your nozzle temp by 10 degrees...

So it looks like you need to edit the gcode to do a temp change mid way through print. Do you have the code or advice on this?

You will have to watch a youtube vid on adding a time temp change... I have never done it via Gcode… I just make sure I am present at the time and change the nozzle temp on the dial

No worries. Will go with the manual approach first.

Comments deleted.

Sliced in Prusa Slic3r... .40 Nozzle.. .150m layer height.. On an original Prusa I3 Mk2S... if you look under the Nuke cloud you will see the layers have a gradual slope up from the center column.. so very little true overhang exists...I don't think it looks as nice a cloud this way but I did it on purpose because I like to avoid supports if at all possible...

Going to try and slow the print down on that cloud to see if that solves the stringing I had earlier.

I have had success in other prints by lowering temps... Just before the print reaches the underside of the cloud... reduce your nozzle temp by 10 degrees...

I adapted the underside of the nuke cloud to print with a slight gradient up so I did not need supports, I do get a little bit of string that I rub off and the little "nubs" left over I think ad to the effect... so far has worked OK, I will point out I think I upped the temp a bit and added some more "squish" to add strength to the column as I had one snap on me..

really, the complete nuke without support? In Cura?
wow... I need to give this a try :)

Very nice set. It is one of my first prints. I'm actually going to go down the route of paints the water and tree's but leaving the cities in the light grey colour I have printed.

Regarding the Nuke did you print with supports? Mine had some slight stringing on the underside when I printed.

Most of them are some sort of terrain texture imported into the program then replicated many times over and moved around to make a big texture..and shortened or heightened and sized accordingly, then I cut the hex sized pattern from that made texture for the city and desert, the lava flow was a river cutout, and the mines were a progressively reduced shape inverted as a hole and then mirrored... I used a few jpegs converted to svg and then reshaped and sized, and of course got a lot of help from online files...the tile emblem inlays were scanned jpegs to svg then just made holes cut from the first .2mm layer...does some of that make sense? Everything was "assembled" in tincercad, then posted back here for all to enjoy freely.

Thanks for sharing.

Ah, I'm still new to Tinkercad and I had no idea there was an SVG import option. This will lead to some interesting stuff. Thanks!

These are some really nice designs. Your profile mentions Tinkercad. Is that what you used to model these? How did you get those irregular surfaces on the ground?

I forgot to mention in the above post there is a very good Terrain right in Tinkercad under the Shape Generators... it is the last one in the list

Wow.. thanks Ponymont… I missed that... It is uploaded now!

NOTE: If you downloaded prior to Oct 21/18 Please RE-download TMCityCorpStongHold… it was missing from the initial upload..

Looks nice, but I noticed that Corporate Stronghold wasn't included. Mistake?

Dear Shawn, this set it the most beautiful I have seen yet. Perfect colors, very nice shapes... I have no idea about 3D printing... but I enjoy watching your work! Thanks alot for contribution!

This looks awesome. I appreciate your choice of colors, as well. Would you mind sharing the filament types and colors you used? I think I have some orange PLA I can use for the nuke, and have a translucent blue I might try with the ocean (a top layer) but I'd love to get the right red-brown you have for the soil and the tan you used for the surface.

Hey bivaterl, thanks so much for the TIP... your are the first ever.. really appreciated!
Here is the list of filaments I used

  • for the very bottom and top soil and city base: PLA iprint3d called “Golden” from iprint-3d.com it was the closest I liked to the original art as well as looking like Mars sand… at least to me…
    -for the mid soil the color is actually a PLA iprint3d called “Red and Brown” from iprint-3d.com
    -Water is Transparent blue from iprint3d.com
    -for the trees is a Filament by Tainse called “Green” from Amazon (this was the hardest color for me to settle on)
    -the silver cities are Hatchbox silver from Amazon
    -The capital city was “pearl white” from iprint3d.com
    -the other building colors were just assorted, red, grey, tan, gold for Commercial district and trans orange for the Nuke.

Just FYI... for all the Scythe pieces because of the detail needed and printing with a .2mm Noz and a .1mm layer height I used almost exclusively Esun PLA + PLUS filaments... I have found them to be the best for precise detail...

Every slicing program will do things different but here is an example of how I printed a couple tiles…I started with a .2mm first layer and then went to a .150 layer height and did my changes in Prusa color print... I printed everything with a .4mm nozzle too..
The Trees:
0-.35mm Golden (starting filament)
.35-3.35 Red/Brown (first change at .35)
3.35-5.15 Golden
5.15- Tainse Green

For the Standard cities:
0-.35 Golden (Starting filament)
.35-4.4 Red/Brown (first change at .35)
4.4-5.3 Golden
5.3- Silver

Hope this helps…

Could you move this information into the Print Settings section? It would be super awesome and make it easier to find later.

Good Idea... just did

Thanks, that is awesome. I'll be starting out this endeavor soon... Have you thought about storage for the tiles? Do you just put them in the box?

Thanks again for sharing your amazing work!

I've seen some storage files on thingiverse that I think I can adapt for the set, but it will probably be some time yet to get to that, I would like to get ahold of the artwork for all the Venus Next tiles and make those tiles next I think. Currently I just have them all together in a Tupperware plastic container... seems to work OK for now.

On Another note, I printed half the tree tiles and half the standard city tiles as a "mirror" image... just to give a bit of variety to the big sets of those...