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anet a8 frame anti bending

by aRGiRob Oct 11, 2018
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Hey this frame brace is so good that my printed holes are now actually round rather than ovals as they were before.. Thank you. I will post up a picture later.

thank you to you, i am very happy to here that and very happy to know that one of my designs is useful for others.

I will go further. This mod is very well thought out and uses the minimum PLA

I would recommend that this is the third mod essential that any new A8 owner makes. The first being a button for the Extruder / Hot End and the second being a cover with an IEC socket and switch for the wires on the power supply

I agree, generally i do not like to advertise myself but try to print these two things:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3238252 fan repositioning, with this you get rid of the button, i mean you will never need to press the button again because you will have a direct view of the extruder. i designed this because i like to change yhe filament on the fly.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3575328 3 point bed leveling, there are many others like this here, print it and you will never need to level the bed again (unless you rebuild the printer).

also may i suggest you to check out these:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2646309 top frame brace
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2847914 frame tie down
these will help you a lot with wobbling and you'll gain a lot in term of print quality

anet a8 extruder fan repositioning
by aRGiRob
Anet A8 3 points bed levelling conversion
by aRGiRob
Anet A8 Top Frame Brace
Anet A8 Frame Tie Downs


Top frame brace is already done.

I use a dial gauge to make sure that the bed is level!

The next mod is likely to be Marlin + auto leveling. I have created a PCB to optically isolate the 4mm Inductive sensor using a 4n35 opto isolator. See the picture IMG_20190506_091327246.jpg

The 4mm Inductive sensor (See Picture IMG_20190506_091622659.jpg)is powered off Fan 2's 12 volt supply. As is the cooling fan for the controller board. The empty 2 pin connector is a spare 12 Volt supply.

The top empty 3 pin connector connects for the Z limit switch on the controller.

The bottom empty 3 pin connector connects to Z limit switch to provide redundancy (still work in progress)

The current setup is Skynet + Anet 12864 LCD from an Anet A6. See picture IMG_20190505_174445626.jpg

i'll move to Marlin in the near future, but before i'll move to RAMPS 1.6
Nice frame the transparent one.
Thanks for the pcb picture, i have a lot of ideas now in my mind :-)

thanks to you too, you are my first known remixer, hope you'll be the first known maker also.

So much smarter, simple and thrifty than all others ! Thanks !