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3D-FloW

Ender 3 - X-Axis Pi camera mount + Enclosure v1.2

by 3D-FloW Oct 10, 2018
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I'm trying to print the V1 files and the two sides of the camera mount just wont slide together more than a few mm.
I've tried it twice, even reprinting the outer section 101%
Anyone else see this?

I remixed a Pi Camera v2 enclosure from another project, used a little TinkerCAD to make it fit on the mount for this project.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3792520

Ender 3 - X-Axis Pi-Cam v2 Enclosure
by Kizan

I really love this idea and the execution but unfortunately it is not compatible with the Pi Camera v2. The lens hole is misaligned/too small. Also, my cable is 16mm wide and the slot in the mount for the cable is only 15mm wide. Just a FYI for the masses.

My Pi cam v2 doesn't fit in the housing, seems the lens hole is too small and its bottoming out on the lens ring, this is causing a misalignment with the ribbon port.
Tried v1 with bigger hole but no go, the board doesn't fit.
p.s my camera came with a focus adjuster

Comments deleted.

Very good project. I especially like this squeezing mount to the frame. Wise idea!
Thank you!

Hi,
Thanks for the design. I was thinking the same to storage the pi under the LCD screen.
I have a small problem that I could solve buying a small cable but, I recieved my PiCam with a 200cm cable. I have roll it but i dont know hoe to put it in a estetic way.

Do you have any idea. I was thinking on a mini box with to openings for in and out the cable with a rail and put it next to the pi. I don't know if I would be able to design it but it could be cool.

I'm having a similar problem as Acwest, petsfang on ender 3 with 18mm ezable probe, I'll upload some pictures so you can see the clearance. In the picture is the version 1.2 bracket and the x axis set at 235mm

Would it be possible to modify this to move the camera further out on the x-axis? I have the Petsfang, and whenever I do the auto bed leveling, the cooling duct hits the camera. there is enough give in the mount that everything works properly still, but it would be better if the camera was a full centimetre or two further away

This is my version of the file, hacked up from the original STL with OpenSCAD. I shifted the camera another 15mm outwards.

First of all great work with the mount!
Thx for showing me that problem, didnt know this would happen with other Part coolers, cause im using the "Bullseye" cooler + BlTouch and it works flawless. (1mm space between Cooler and Cam).
I added a new version of the PiCam mount with 12mm more clearance between Hotend and PiCam Case. This should help allot.
For all with monster coolers + Autobed Leveling, they should modify their printer software! :-)

Comments deleted.

I'm having trouble getting the V2 camera in the housing with the cable on it. I slide the cable in through the slit and connect it to the camera, but then I can't get the lens to line up with the hole because the cable is in the way when you try to slide the camera down into the housing and line the lens up with the hole. Is there a certain way or method you need to use to situate the camera in the housing with the cable?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987719

I have a pi cam v 2.1 and this worked great

Creality Ender 3 Pi Cam Mount
by sn4k3

I already know about that problem and working on it. It seems like there is a difference between the original pi cam and other pi cams about the cable lenght to the lens. This case is made for the original one. Im sorry i cant help you at the moment. For now my only advice to you is to make the hole bigger with a „Dremel“ or a cutting knife. Please do not try to force the camera with strengh into the housing, because it is possible to damage the cable connector!!!

I ended up creating a slot in the housing in Fusion 360 with the help of a friend and it works flawlessly now. See attached for that file and feel free to add it to your thing for others to use as well. The scale is off, so you may want to adjust that if you do decide to post it.

No worries - I may try to remix it and just put a channel in it starting from the lens hole up to the wall of the camera so you can just slide the camera in.

Thx @Icolederrick, great work with the slotted housing !!! --> inspired of your work, i constructed a new "Slotted Version !!!

@acwest:
I’m sorry, mounting the camera upside down didn‘t work, cause it hits the control panel!

I hadn't thought of that. I've moved my control panel, but it was a temporary change.
In any case, when the camera is upside down, it is too low, and the view is blocked by the base plate. When it is right side up, the nozzle isn't visible. I'm sure there is a position that meets all of the requirements, but I haven't quite worked it out...

In my opinion, seeing the nozzle is not really important. You wanna see your print result, and if the printer is working correctly without any issues.

It looks I should be able to mount the camera upside down, to get a better view of the nozzle. Do you think that would work?