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jonnig

Phone/Tablet Stand - Flat fold - Print in place!

by jonnig Oct 10, 2018
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I print tree times ,to find best Horizontal Expansion -0.05 on my case :) With -0.2 hinges is too loose

Awesome, Printed a Small one on Anet A8 0.1 Layer height, -0.1 Horizontal expansion. Hinges freed with no effort whatsoever. A great model

Awesome design! This is one of best 3D printable things I have seen. It is useful, looks good and has a point. Great job!

Hi. I found the design and idea nice and printed the medium sized 1 time on my CR-10. I have scaled it to 110 % @ 0,2mm layer-height, because I wanted to make sure, the gaps are big enough (my CR 10 has a minimum good gap of 0,3mm to break free without any force).

Thanks for sharing the design.

But it was really hard to get the pieces moving. The hinges work great, the problem was to get the big parts loose from each other.

Why don't you make these gaps a little bit bigger? The inner parts will not loose any stability, it they are 0,5mm smaller. And why are there little "brigdes" between the parts? They are not necessary for printing such a simple flat piece properly.

If you make these little changes, this piece would print perfectly without any after-rework and would get apart very easily.

The weakest area is the wide "bolt". When you need a strong force to get it loose there, the whole part may break.

Another idea for improvement is to make the wide bolt and the slots not round, but with sharp edges. In my case, it flips out of the slots easily.

Thanks for the detailed comment and ideas!

I highly recommend not going higher than 0.15 mm layers (and using a 0.4mm nozzle). The design is specifically tailored to it. I've only seen successful 0.2mm layer prints on very accurate machines.

The gaps between the pieces are 0.3mm if I recall correctly and shouldn't be an issue. Where this can often cause problems is if your first layer is elephant footing and closes the gap that way. I do agree that increasing it to 0.5mm wouldn't be a problem for my design.
I'll add the change when I do the next update :)

The "bridges" are not actually brides. They're clips that lock the pieces in place when folded flat. I have a suspicion these might have looked like bridges for you because of the 0.2mm layer height.

Lastly your idea on squaring off the bolt is excellent and I will definitely add this to the next revision!

I'm currently finishing up a design variation of this stand that has enough room below the phone (in portrait mode) to allow a charger to be plugged in. As soon as that's done I'll make the revisions and update here.

OK. Today: second attempt. Only change: Horizontal Expansion: -0,1. And it came out flawless. This is the part not even broke apart https://www.thingiverse.com/make:656294 . Breaking apart is not necessary, because it is everything moving easily. Now the locks are working too. Again layer-height 0,2 mm.

Here is a picture of a lifting platform I have seen some days ago. It shows, what I meant of the feet of the bolt not being round.

But the actual print works so nice, when the parts are moving freely, then it is not necessary to change anything.

Phone/Tablet Stand - Flat fold - Print in place!

In the past 2 days, I have printed 4 of these using an Ender 3 printer and Cura slicer. I am a newbie, no clue what I'm doing and this worked all 4 times. Every time I printed one someone in my family would take it so I'd have to print another for myself.
Thanks so much for sharing this design!

Let me save all you Ender 3 owners. I printed this with horizontal expansion set to -0.15 and it worked, also works at 110% scale.

Thank you for your adjustments. I printed on the Ender 3, large size, using the horizontal expansion set to -0.15 AND I scaled it at 110%. I was able to break away the tabs and fold it into shape. Holds my S10+ and my tablet without issue.
I realize I should have just done one or the other but both adjustments worked. :)

midnightsmith, would those settimgs apply to all 3 sizes?

Yes, I tested on the small one first, then printed the large one. Both worked good with these settings. I would imagine the medium will as well. A trick to separate the parts is bend along the fused lines. For some insane reason, the model has parts that are intentionally fused, like breakaway tabs, you can see it in layer view. Bend along those tab things and it should break easy. With my above settings, the hinges should not fuse.

I printed the small version without issue, but used a hobby knife to cut those tabs. It felt like I would have broken it by just bending alone. Thanks for the help on this.

I printed the Small one with my ender 3, with standard settings in cura for ender 3(10% infill, 0.15 layer height) and it came out "great" with quotes. It was a little tough getting the pieces unstuck from each other initially but once broken free it works great!

I like the design, but my first attempt to print the medium size version didn't work out. The print job actually stopped like it was complete but the piece wasn't finished for some reason. Even though not complete, I tried to separate the edges and rotate some of the hinges and everything broke apart. Appreciate your design and efforts, but I share the same problems as some others with this print.

does not come apart hinges dont work waste of pla

I have a well calibrated, auto levelling da Vinci mini w+ and printed the medium design with print type Normal. All the hinges are fused, all the edges are fused except for a few gaps. I worked at it with a stanley knife for 20 minutes then gave up. Waste of PLA and time.

I fantastic design, thank you much for sharing.

This is a very nice design. Good work. However, I am sad to see it uses a non commercial license, when you are using a printer that is made under the GNU GPL v3 license.

I made this design for a commercial purpose. Giving it away for free alongside that seems like a bonus that you shouldn't take for granted.
What I use to print mine on seems irrelevant.

I am a programmer by trade and love the open source philosophy but I don't apply it to everything I do.

One more thing. Your design is clearly a remake/inspired from this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:692523 published in 2015. I cannot find any reference or credit to the original designer. Can you elaborate on that?

Universal phone/tablet stand with adjustable angle.

That's a lovely design too. I'm afraid that I was not inspired by it. Making blanket assumptions is kind of rude, isn't it?

It's a pretty obvious idea that I'm sure many many people have had in their own without inspiration from anything else.
If you'd like proof I can show you pictures of my design iterations for this (I kept most of them). The one published here is something like the 10th iteration. Not that it really matters but I wouldn't mind showing if it makes you feel better :)

You don't have to prove anything to me. It is clear that you have copied either this or this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22964 The latter is EXACTLY like yours. The fact that you "made" it for commercial use is firstly a lie , which can be taken from the comments of this item, where you say that people told you to sell this and secondly, an obvious copyright infringment looking at the image I attached. Showing me designs in paper doesn't proove anything as the design in the picture is from 2012. Again, you don't have to proove anything to anyone. I am just calling you out for using someone elses design and presenting it as yours. You might be a programmer but we deal with licenses and copyrights and a quick google search will tell in how many ways you are going against the law. In short, Changing a design doesn't make it yours. I hope it was worth the 13 sales (there is another one on etsy selling the exact same design you made btw), but its a very a selfish thing not giving credit where credit has to be given.

Phone Stand & Headphone Wrap (Laser Cut and Living Hinges)
by OxyJin

You are free to believe what you like.
I appreciate the hostility. Makes me reconsider posting more in the future :)

tbh this looks like he just changed the desgin. i cannot believe that 2 different people made such similar designs. these things just dont happen. the flap. the size and the way the stand folds...

Phone Stand & Headphone Wrap (Laser Cut and Living Hinges)
by OxyJin

Any idead to prevent warping i print this in 0,05mm layer height witm 20mm/s and its super warped it might be possible becouse layer are so thin they warped? Now i prining with 0,2mm layer height 40mm/s and with brim im using PLA

I cleaned bed with water and soap printed with brim printed in 0,2mm layer and its gud :)

Printed several on 3 different <$750 printers with ZERO problems. Thanks for the cool design!
Our school wants me to put our logo on ours to give away at one of our events. What font did you use in the "Eagle" picture? I'd probably need to use the similar one. I was also concerned about using PLA because of flimsiness. I'm hoping it will be fine.

Thanks!

Thanks! That's so great to hear.
I have done a ton of testing with fonts (I also sell Multi Material printed versions of this now with colored text/logos) and by far the most printable don't I've found is Arial Rounded MT Bold. It has perfectly even stroke width and I get no print issues with anything 5mm letter size or larger with a 0.4mm nozzle.

As for the material. I find PLA to be the best option for this because of its superior rigidity. Just avoid leaving them in a hot car. I
Io have some exotic and hard to print materials that I prefer using for the stands but that comes at a significant increase to cost/effort.

If you have any further questions I'm happy to help out.
And please post some pics of your end result. I'd love to see it!

P.S. You are of course completely free to edit this design however you like but if you're interested I do offer custom designs of this model and my newer version (which accommodates for much larger logos) for a small fee

Thanks for your reply. OK. I'll use PLA. I was thinking PETG for more strength, but for something this small maybe it doesn't matter.

What is your fee and where do I review the new design? We might want to give these away again at our school so buying your new version might make sense.

Don't I need to use a stencil font for text that punches completely through? If so, which stencil font do you suggest?

While PETG is tougher, after a ton of testing I really believe PLA is the best (affordable) material to print these stands out of. It's far more rigid than PETG which makes it actually feel stronger in these thin stands and it's better with overhangs which results in much better hinges.

As for the font. Stencil fonts don't work well for printing because the cuts (not sure what they're called) are way too thin. I use the font I mentioned above and then manually add the bridges where needed (0.8mm is my goto for width on those).

I included an image of the new model stand I've been using for custom orders. It's the same size but has a much larger center piece. I can provide designs for single material printing (with cutouts) and/or multi-material/extruder printers.
Usually the fee comes to ±€40 per model. Please contact me on j.gil@cherry-labs.com if you'd like me to send you a design cost breakdown.

Clever. l learnt something (newbie). I like how the hinges can be printed in. But I didn't realise that there are little locking tabs too, neat. I was cautious and cut some bits with a knife, including one of the tabs. Thanks for the design. PS 100% infill, 0.15 layers on a CR-10mini using Cura settings except for infill of course.

This printed wonderfully for me! As someone new to the world of 3D printing and design, I gotta ask, what is the tolerance in the joints? I'm really excited to give it a shot in my next design

There's a 0.15 mm tolerance in the hinges.
I generally use larger tolerances when applying this kind of hinge in my designs (0.2 - 0.3 mm) but because these hinges are so small I had to use tighter tolerances to make sure it can't be taken apart easily.

That's awesome, many thanks! ^•^

Все супер!!! Спасибо автору;)

ahh printed hinges... how they make me suffer!

Thank you! My first attempt with the medium size came out pretty good. It was a little tough getting the pieces unstuck from each other initially but once broken free it works great! I think this is because my first layer height is in such a manner that it really gets squished out to improve adhesion. I'm going to try increasing the initial layer height a tad and dropping the flow a touch and try it again

I guess it depends on the Slicer settings, with default Cura 3 0.15 mm profile and with the suggested settings in the details this won't work. It was very very hard to remove and when I turned the small bottom stand it broke after a few times..
Anyway, it also feels cheap and bend easily. Separate parts would be way better and a more rigid design.

P.S was the first thing ever I could throw right into the garbage...

If the small front flap breaks after a few uses that means you fused the hinge.
As is clear, this print requires a well calibrated printer. From your picture it's pretty obvious yours isn't :)

Try going through a tutorial on how to properly calibrate your printer. It'll help you in the long run when you try other high precision designs.

You can see a difference in that bad picture? Wow you must be an eagle in your in your life before that. Added a proper picture, is my printer still that bad? and if, maybe you should add it to the discription that it must be a perfect working 3D printer for >1k.. then that result is better as the print from Naomi herself from the CR10s Pro. (except the chin, printed only with 50° support and not with 30° like she). Maybe its PLA or temperature related. It looked exactly like in cura but even with a knife it was so hard to cut where you fused it in the model. When I look at every layer in Cura there are at least 5 layers fused together.. no wonder I can't break it easy with hand.

Edit: added cura1, thats so close I barely can't see it in cura with max zoom.. I guess there are so many settings that could be not optimal and screw it up..

You are right, same results here, this design not working right.

I would be happy to talk you through how to change your print settings and/or what needs better calibration. It really is a tough print to get right but well worth the effort in case you plan on printing other demanding designs in the future.

However, simply complaining about a design that clearly works for a lot of people seems a little counter productive.

Thanks for interesting project.

I had the same problem with a VERY WELL calibrated delta printer.
The gaps are too small and the filament glues together.

For me, the solution was to print small versions in a 110% proportion.
Now it broke easily and nothing ripped apart.

Job is done ;)

This printed very well for me. Have to be careful when trying to break things loose (I used the point of a thin pocket knife). Works great! Thanks!

I printed the xl version in 0,2 thickness, with 90% flow and 0% infill. Worked out great, and it took little effort to break parts loose.
However, the angle of my tablet is pretty steep. Could you make a strech limousin version of it please, beeing 4 pots (or 4cm) longer than the original? The idea is to have the tablet at an ideal angle to read at my coffee bar table.

Yeah sure. I'll give it a shot when I'm back home from Xmas vacation. I'll update you when I have something :)

I second this! I'd love a version that's a few notches longer to even further decrease the angle possible but preferably of the medium version :)

Printed smallest one on 0.1mm layer + 0.3 line width, It was really hard to separate each movable part without breaking it and hinge broke off anyways after few uses. So, I don't recommend printing s version.

I'm afraid that just means your printer is not properly calibrated. The overwhelming majority of users have printed the S version. I have printed well over 200 myself by now. It requires basically no effort to open if your printer is properly calibrated.

I haven't heard of anyone I gave/sold them to breaking them under normal use conditions.

completely broke apart for me. I used exactly the settings mentioned in the instructions but when trying to gently break the hinges, it completely broke in the middle. For me it is not a good design, disappointing...

This means you'll have to calibrate your printer more precisely. Usually if the parts fused that means your nozzle is too close to the bed.
These stands require a much better calibration than most prints.

This is amazing - thank you so much. I just printed a whole bunch of them to give away for Christmas.

That's so great to hear! I love giving them away as well.
Visiting the inlaws for Christmas and we packed almost 100 of them to pass around during the 2 week vacation.

Any suggestions? I printed this at .1 layer, 50% infill and it looks fine, but none of the hinges will break free. It looks like, from the backside, like the separations don't go all the way thru....ideas? Pretty sure my printer is fine...everything else is printing fine right now.

If it looks like the underside fused together I would suggest to first look at improving the bed levelling on your printer. This design requires a much more precisely levelled bed than most. If your nozzle is too close to the bed, the bottom layers of the pieces will fuse together.

Next up I'd suggest to play with your extrusion multiplier. Start by lowering it 2%, if that doesn't work, another 2%.

Keep in mind to only change one variable at a time to make sure you can track exactly what effect it has on the print.

your printer's tolerances need to be great for this print to work. tune your printer better.

I love this design. I'm printing a bunch of these as Christmas gifts for my family. I have a question, though. Would it be possible to modify the design in some way to accommodate a book? I have a rather large, unwieldy textbook that I'd like to prop up using a modified version of your stand. Then, I could simply slide the stand into my backpack along with my other school stuff. I have a CR-10S, so size shouldn't be an issue. The amount of plastic required would also not be an issue. If it's possible, and if you would be willing to modify your amazing design for this purpose, would you kindly respond here? I can get back to you about the dimensions of the book if you would consider it. Again, thank you for the amazing design.
Regards,
Stan Muse

That's an interesting and unique request! Let me know the dimensions and I'll see if it can work.
I'm fairly certain that grabbing the Large model and scaling it up in the slicer would work but I will happily take your dimensions and double check that on my design.

The book is 2.5 inches thick, 6.25 inches long, and 9.5 inches tall. If I had to guess its weight, I'd say it's about 5 pounds. I have to read out of this thing for hours at a time, so having a stand for it would be nice. I added a picture for scale.

Excellent. I'll have a look tomorrow and let you know

Ok so the the Large stand in PLA is definitely strong enough to hold the weight of your book. I loaded it with at least 10 pounds and it wouldn't budge. Scaling it to 200% would make sure it won't easily tip over backwards when the book is on there.
200% makes it 0.4" thick, 6.4" wide and 9.6" long when folded flat so still easy enough to stick in a backpack.

I do foresee 2 issues that I can't easily simulate without spending 9 hours printing the beast :P

  • The front flap might embed itself between pages depending on where you are in the book.
  • The front flap might get in the way when flipping to the next page.

I've been considering printing it at 200% myself, just for kicks (and because I often need to elevate my 15" macbook off the table) but my printer has a very full schedule until I leave for xmas so it'll be the first week of next year that I get around to doing it.
If you do give it a try, please post pictures!

Thank you for the time you took to consider my request. I'll be printing soon!

The best phone stand ever!! I'm still surprised how did you make such nice design. I've printed several M size stands without any trouble - every time it works perfectly. Great work!

Thanks so much!
I highly recommend giving the Small version a try. Having a stand in a credit card slot in your wallet means you're never without one :)

Just printed the small. Did have to slightly force it the first time to get to "open", but once I did it worked like a charm. Nicely designed. I always appreciate a great design. I am going to print the big one tonight to see how well works. Love the hinge. Well done!

Thanks!
I think most people are only interested in the small stand. I love the big stand though, because I haven't managed to find a device it doesn't work for. Even my 15" Macbook Pro works :P

I am going to try it with Surface Book tablet portion. I have been debating on designing just a simple one for use when I am in my chair. Is it ok to give these away with my business card? I usually use 3d printed business cards. Thanks again!

Of course it's ok to give these away with your business card. As long as you don't sell them, give away as many as you'd like!
Please let me know how it works out with the Surface book.

It worked great for the surface book. Thank you!

I worked great for me using a Ender-2, PLA, 0.15mm 100% infill. Personally I would prefer an even smaller one. I only use the stand for the phone horizontally but it is good as it is.
Thanks!

Even smaller than the Credit card sized model?
Wouldn't you be worried about it tipping over backwards if it were any shorter?
I can give it a try just for the sake of curiosity :)

Thank you for the offer but it is good as it is :)

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Thanks for caring enough to go back and rework this! Its such a great design!

Thanks for the compliments :)
That's what I do it for!

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Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App
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Thank you so much for this great phone stand. I couldn't believe it at first that you could make something like that in one print. But it worked without any problems. Printed it with 100% infill.

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Having problems breaking it open. i am printing with an anycubic i3 mega.
30% infill
speed 30mm
layer height have tried 0,15 and 0,18
wall thickness 1,2
temperatures 200/60
PLA filament

Any help?

tried again with 100% infill and horzontal expansion 0.1...things got worst.

Just want tonconfirm

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Oops, pressed the ok button too early. I wanted to make sure you actually 6jsed -0.1 horizontal expansion, not 0.1. For this kind of issue it should be negative.

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

you my friend are a life saver. just changing the horizontal expansion to -0,1 worked from me. i could tell from the first layer that there is a gap between the layers. is that normal?

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Infill shouldn't affect whether or not the pieces fuse together.
I would suggest setting horizontal expansion back to what you had it originally and playing with the following:

  • Make sure your bed is perfectly level. This design is much more sensitive to nozzle height than most other designs. If your nozzle is too close the layers inside the hinges squish together and won't unlock.

  • Flow rate / Extrusion multiplier. Lower it 2-3% and print, if that's not enough lower by another 2-3% and try again.

  • You could also try smaller layer heights. I've seen anything from 0.05mm to 0.20mm work and prefer using 0.15mm myself, but your chances of avoiding fused parts are better with smaller layers.

Let me know how it turns out!

EDIT: Just saw the make you posted. From what I can tell in the picture it does look like adjusting the flow rate might be the answer.

EDIT2: If you haven't done an "E-step calibration" on your printer before I suggest you do that first, before anything else I suggested. Google how that is done for your specific printer. It should significantly improve dimensional accuracy of your prints.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

I printed 1 in black PLA and it came out perfect. amazing that it snaps back together and stays flat so easy to put in a backpack sleeve or something when traveling. Then 4 in red. Now 6 in glow in the dark PLA. I'll try a couple in carbon PETG. 0.15 works for me, the bottom lip needed just a bit more muscle but it came out fine. Also printing on a prusa mk3. These ARE great for gifts. I may have to try the med or large one for an ipad.

That's so cool to hear! I carry a small stack of them in my coat at all times to give out.
I've printed them successfully in almost every material I own. Didn't work out so great in 95A Flex though :D

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I printed the V2 at .2 layer height, printed in Carbon Fiber PC, which is a little flexible, but works great!

Excellent! I've been looking at this roll of XT-CF20 (PETG variant with 20% Carbon Fibre) I have lying around wondering if I should try it for these stands.
I've printed it in Polymaker PC-MAX and a nano diamond infused PLA from Carbodeon before and found these stands are really suited to being printed in tougher, more rigid materials. Unfilled polycarbonate was a little too flexible for my taste though.

This doesn't break apart at ALL. I have my layer height set to .15 like everyone else. The bottom foot break apart area is simply too thick!

If you're asking for help, more information would help :)
Lacking any information on your printer, slicer settings or a picture, my first guess would be you're suffering some over-extrusion.

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Can you share your slicing settings? I've had couple of tries and both times have ended up with fused parts. Have tried higher tolerance models also.

EDIT: Whoops - was printing at 0.2mm instead of 0.1mm. Reprinted with 0.1, -0.1mm horizontal expansion, 100% infill. Able to flex parts and break small joins, works as intended. Thanks again for a great design!

Very welcome! Happy you figured it out :)
I've seen quite a few people print it successfully at 0.2mm but it requires more precise calibration the bigger your layer heights.

actually I've used 0.2mm layer 3 walls top and bottom and 20% infill

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So amazing. There are going to be many of these going in people's stockings this Christmas. The small one holds my 8.5cm x 16.5cm phone even with it's bulky case. I have one question. The bottom hinge, does it have anything preventing it from lying flat open? This is the hinge on my big one. It isn't a big problem but I am just wondering if my print was missing a stopper or if there is a reason one isn't included.

Yeah it definitely includes a stopper. I made a screenshot of the design file so you can see it close up.
I haven't heard of anyone having issues with it before.

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Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Awesome design! Printed at 0.15 layer height.. I was stubborn and refused to change out the 0.8mm nozzle so it took a few tries to print without fusing to the point of being unable to release the pieces. The key was setting a negative "horizontal expansion" in Cura. Probably would have had an easier time with 0.4mm nozzle

Love the model, had been thinking about designing this same thing, but you beat me to it. I've printed a couple already. One feature i'd love to see added is a way to lock the position selector. I printed several to leave around the house in places where I want one on a stand, but I find that the feet can slip a little.

Thanks for the appreciation :D
I'm releasing a complete redesign of this later today!
I've tried to add a position lock into this design without making it thicker and couldn't figure it out. If you have suggestions I'd love to hear them.

Along with many other improvements, the redesign does have deeper recesses for the feet in each position, so that it's more secure. That should help alleviate your issue.

This is brilliant!

For those keeping score, it printed perfectly on the first try with ABS and a layer height of 0.15. I already use a pre-calibrated Horizontal Expansion of -0.1mm, and it yielded perfect joints -- nothing too loose, and nothing that needed to be broken free.

Awesome!
I'm happy to hear ABS works well too. Not something I would have tested myself.

This worked for me first time using PETG! Those hinges are amazing. I didn't have to change settings at all from the stock "Other PET" settings in Slic3r.

Used a negative horizontal expension of -0.075 mm and 0.2mm layer heights and turned out great for me! Love it!

it would be really cool to integrate this into a phone case directly somehow..

I didn't have a lot of luck on the first print (CC version) which was totally fused together at .1, but for the second print I had to scale it up a bit (10% extra), used 0.12 and also reduced a tiny bit the extrusion multiplier, but it came out amazing after that. Great thing!!

The little square hinge was fused for me. The rest worked fine though. Any idea how I can fix that?

Use a negative horizontal expansion value. Something like -0.5 might help.

I had the same thing happen when I tried printing it in NGEN (a PET variant). I solved it by lowering the extrusion multiplier a bit.
Other than that I'm not sure how to help.

I am in the process of redesigning this and will look into slightly higher tolerances for printers that can't handle the precision.

Same issue here. Printed with good ol' PLA and a Prusa just like yours.

I followed your settings but unfortunately it seems printing in glass has fused the first layers together even in 0.1mm.

I tried to separate them but the whole thing broke. Any change v2 can account for higher tolerances?

You might try raising the nozzle a tad, so that the first layer doesn't squish out as much. See if you can still keep it low enough to keep it sticking to the glass.

You might have some better luck if you reduce the extrusion multiplier. I had the same issues when I tried printing this in NGEN (a PET variant).
I'm in the process of a redesign so I can look into slightly higher tolerances. Do you have any idea what kind of minimum tolerance your printer can handle?

I love the pin hole hinges. Using these makes 3d printing a super alternative. Thanks for sharing.