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Bo_Ris

Vertex-H

by Bo_Ris Oct 9, 2018
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Hi, Bo_Ris really nice design. K8400 was my first printer. Since I started building a Hypercube more than 2years ago, it was more or less unused. However, I saw your great work and got inspired to use it again and convert it. In preperation to everything I orderd your custom made board. Hence I do have some questions, since it is not a one to one copy of the original PCB:
The larger resistor, is it a 2 or more? Watt resistor (22 or 33 ohm?). The others are all 1/4 Watt (750 ohm) ? Colours are a bit hard to see.
It would be also nice if you could let me know where you bought those 2pin and 10 pin connectors (not the screw terminals). I couldn't find them anywhere.
Did you disassmble the endstop or did you by a new one?

Thanks

Hi Stefan,
My very detailed answers to all your questions got flagged for moderation (not sure by a person or the website itself). I contacted Thingiverse Support asking to unblock it. Hopefully they will do it. Let's give them coupe of days.

Thanks
Boris

Hi Boris,
Thanks, for answering and taking your time.
Hope the flag will be removed soon. I would love to order missing pieces. Build is progressing. So far motors are moving and I was able to flash your version of marlin. However, I noticed that the XY-clamp does not clamp on the x-rail tight enough. Hence it causes some skewing of the x-axis in reference to y (not perpenticular for a sec). This happens mainly when the x motor changes fast direction, which probaly will lead to some strange effects on prints. How did you clamp it down firmly. Maybe a captive nut would be an option? Or is this normal vor one belt driven CoreXY? I'm used to have two belts with my other set up.

Thanks,
Stefan

Thingiverse really does not like me anymore :( Check out all those comments flagged for moderation. I will reply you with the message.

Hi Stefan,

It just happened to me again. Looks like any attempt to edit published comment triggers moderation flag. I tried to correct a typo in my post below and it disappeared. Yet another bug of Thingiverse... Anyway, at this time I was prepared; I kept the copy of my reply in Notepad ;) So here it is:

My response is still flagged for moderation, so here it is once again:

  • There was no need for you to order custom PCB, since my last update contained STLs that should fit the original PCB and sensor from Velleman.
  • I am using 62 Ohm resistor. With it the fan gets just 9 volts, but that is sufficient for e3d. The fan also runs quieter and will serve longer under lower voltage.
  • I did not use sensor parts. ITR-9606 DIP OPTO Switch Coupler used in the sensor costs just about 20 cents/piece on eBay.
  • I had no problems with XY clamp. In fact, I had to widen the hole as my rail would not fit. My rails are 12mm x 8.5mm. The size of the hole depends on layer height/precision. Try to reprint with 0.2mm or even 0.3mm layer height.

I had another issue with this design - due to poor quality of cheap rail, the nozzle was freely moving along Y within the range of about 0.4mm. I ended up adding another X-rail, which eliminated that play. Mounting parts for new rail are attached to the top of existing XY-clamps. I will publish them soon.

  • I was not happy with Marlin performance in CoreXY mode on Velleman mainboard. I switched to Klipper in early January, but it had its own issues. About 3 weeks ago I replaced Klipper with Repetier firmware and since then have nothing to complain about.

If you are not printing in 2 colors, I'd strongly suggest to remove extra nozzle and use my print-head with single e3d-v6 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3372524. It has much more efficient filament cooling duct than in my earlier designs.

And one final note: with current orientation of e3d fan the air gets partially reflected from the body of the carriage and hits the heat-block. As the result, I had troubles heating it up above 235 degrees. e3d sock put over the heat-block from top-down helps to gain additional 10 degrees.

Thanks

Vertex-H with Single E3D-v6 Hot-end
by Bo_Ris
Comments deleted.

Hi, edding3001
I'm glad you like my design. As I mentioned in the last update note, I uploaded stl-s that allow to use original Velleman PCB, so there was no real need for you to order my custom PCB.

To answer your questions - I tried 1W and 0.5W resistors. Both worked just fine. As for the resistance, I ended up using 62 ohm resistor. Fan gets just about 9V, but that's enough to cool down e3D. Lower voltage also reduces the noise and increases fan's lifespan.

I purchased opto coupler on ebay. They are very cheap. Here is one of the postings https://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-ITR9606-ITR-9606-DIP-OPTO-Switch-Coupler-Everlight-Trough-Type-Sensor-/262483531224?hash=item3d1d3cd5d8
I bought 10pin connector from digikey.com. At that time (over a year ago) part number was WM2725-ND, but I just checked and now it shows 5 pin male connector. Search for Molex connectors on their website. They should have it. While doing my endless upgrades I managed to shorten and ruin 2 mainboards, so I reused 2- and 3- pin connectors from there. Digikey should have them as well.

Here are coupe of things you may want to consider.

  • While linear rails are big step forward comparing to rods that I used before, this particular design has an issue - the nozzle has about 0.4mm backlash along Y-axis. One way to solve this is to use high quality (i.e. expensive) rail for X-axis. Another - to add 2nd rail along X. I opted for the latter and the problem is gone. I will publish this mod soon.
  • Another issue is that air flow from e3d fan deflected from the carriage cools down heat-block. I had troubles reaching even 240 degrees. This is additional reason to lower the fan voltage. And you definitely will need e3D silicone sock. I ended up cutting off its edges, widening the hole and covering heatblock from the top. Works perfect.

You may also want to check my remix for single head posted here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3372524

Thanks
Best regards,
Boris

Vertex-H with Single E3D-v6 Hot-end
by Bo_Ris

WOW!!! Again great work! I like this design alot. Next step is maybe to cnc a metal frame?! Because the plexi isn't stiff enough. I might try to build it, my k8400 is just sitting there because I couldn't get it running but I think this will work.

Actually, I installed three 1"x1/8" aluminium bars along the top of front and side panels and that made the frame strong enough. My next step is switching from Marlin to Klipper firmware to increase printing speed. I am 4 weeks into using Klipper, but having occasional print failures that are reported and discussed here: https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/issues/1112 My setup is one of a kind which makes it difficult to troubleshoot. Once this is resolved will share my Klipper configuration.
Thanks.

Can you link all items need buy?

do you have this pcb board and send it to finnish?

I am currently using custom PCB developed for VertexEvo. I do not have anymore spares and also, shipping from West coast US to Europe is expensive. I'd suggest you to wait a little. Once I complete this design, I am planning to publish another version of printhead that will contain the original PCB from Velleman and the original X-stop sensor. If you don't want to wait, you can order PCB board (unassembled) directly from China from https://easyeda.com Create account with them and I will share PCB design with you. They charge 2$ for 5 boards (that's minimum quantity you can order) + shipping.

Sure, just posted the latest update and included the list.

this looks gr8 concept , looking forward to seeing how this progress will have to dust off my old 8400 and fix it it got stuck under the desk after getting fed up with fixing those bloody silly monkey metal pulleys ;)

Assembled it today. Need to do minor changes, but dry run went well. The same CoreXY firmware settings as for VertexEvo worked just fine. Only print volume is different.
Added 14 mm along X. Xmax is 206 mm. Right now Y is 206 mm (was 218 mm), but I can get back those 12 mm by moving bed forward. Along Z I lost 4 mm (from 194 mm down to 190 mm). That could be addressed as well, but I don't think it worth efforts. Hoping to finalize and publish design within a week.

Thanks

looking great boris! looking forward to see this come together.