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PrusaSlicer Profile for Creality3D Printers

by Braunbaer Sep 30, 2018
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When I extract the ender 5, it extracts as ender 3 v5, not ender 5

Also Prisasier 2.1.0 won't load the ini file and gives an error saying no files copied

for youre first question i checked again and there seems to be nothing wrong. where dit you download it?

How dit you load the file? File/Import/import Config?

So I got the CR10s_V5 profile and while the final prints are ok, I have some odd behavior.
I am using the EZABL and have copied the start and end codes that are working solid in Cura.

When is runs the cleaning / priming line down the side it does not extrude anything.
It also does not extrude the skirt.
It goes through the motions but nothing comes out.

Also, when it finishes running the mesh code at the start it normally sits over the back left corner while it waits for the nozzle temp to catch up.

When using the Prusa gen'ed gcode, it homes to the front right and sits there before trying to do the cleaning / priming line.

Anyone got an idea?

I use bltouch sensor myselfe and had to do some tweaking because of similar od behaviors.
send us the the start and end gcode so we can solve the problem.

Are the settings for the Ender 5 Plus (with BL Touch) in here? If not, has anyone perfected those and could they add them?

Try these. I have made a few changes from Braunbaer's original settings. It is setup for the Ender 5 Plus bed size and height.
You can go through the settings and change anything you want.

Thanks! I'm taking a look at it now.

By the way, did you change anything other than the bed size? When I look at all of the "expert" settings I see a lot of empty values, but I'm clueless about how to determine the correct settings.

I would suggest that you load the Ender 5 settings from Braunbaer. I took screen shots and saved them. Then you can load my Ender 5 Plus and see the differences. Most are very minor that I changed the defaults on.. I did change the start and end Gcode to include the G29 for auto bed leveling. I use the same settings for my Ender 5 as well as the 5 Plus, except for bed size with my TH3d EZABL and EZBoard. I have a slight delay to allow the hot end and bed to heat back up after leveling. I changed some of the print speed settings to a little slower and removed support and brim as default.

Hi, so i can use the cr10 profile for my cr10s pro?

I suggest you get 7-zip ( a free download). I have also created a remix with just the ini files.

I have downloaded the CR10 profile but when i try to locate the file to use is prusa it cant find the file cause it .rar and needs to be .ini or .gcod

the profiles are made for bowden tube.


thank you very much for the profiles.
I just got my CR 10 MAX and I want to try this profile.
I saw that you are using a direct drive extruder.
Can you tell me what I need to change in the profile to get the right variables for the normal extruder?

Thank you!

the profiles are made for bowden tube.

Hi ,I have been using your profile's on my machine .I must say its extremely fast and I have done a couple of prints. The only issue I have is the stringing.Is there a way to remove it? The profile doesn't allow me to change any setting to tweak retraction setting to remove it completely.Was it intentional or I'm doing something wrong with the profile because whenever I try to change any parameter the Software doesn't let me.

Your help is greatly appreciated .thanks again.

-you have to safe the curent profile to make changes the profile is not locked.
-Stringing is a bitch and depends on which filament you use, but you can try lower/rise the nozzle temp by 5c increments check if Z-hopping(Lift Z axis after retraction) is inactiv in Printer Settings/Extruder, this was my main issue for stringing when it was active. also try the Whipe while retracting on functinon under lift Z
-try diffrent retraction lenghs and speeds

Hey Thanks for the tip. ive been printing bust fro past two montsh and i never haqd single fialed print ,Thats crazy .Your profiles are crazy.But however i have been only printing with low infills and keep everything standard till now.

But coming to the main issue i'm facing some problem withe settings for infill.

Theres' one more thing i wanted to know.Attached are the two images where the infill settings is less and other one is more.The prusa just doesn't updated or doesn't change infill settings .It does how infill but doesn't update or reflect in the model too (graphically) .Even the type of infill.it only takes gyroid infill even if you switch to other .

what could be the problem ? any help would be greatly appreciated ... As i sometimes would like to make stronger prints with higher infills fo functional parts and i'm just not able to do it at the moment .

when a new z layer is coming it spills a lot of pla on one spot where do i have to look?
The nema on the bodentube is even making loud noise if layer is changing

i woud suggest the same as woodwaker to calibrate the extruder. here a tutroial i use alot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y

edensan, check your retraction settings. Have you calibrated your extruder? there are a number of good you-tube videos on extruder calibration hot end temp may also contribute.

Comments deleted.

I have CR10 MAX
can you share the profile?

i dont have one for cr10 max. try CR10 and change bedsize and buildhight

I get "unknowen file or damaged file" when I try to unpack it with winrar :(

Thanks for putting this up here.

I have posted a remix with the Ender 5 file unzipped and included in a PrusaSlicer_config_bundle.ini

I also uset zip but notthing help.

I use wirar, som others have trouble.

dt5000 had a this problem but he used 7-Zip an not winrar

I use wirar, som others have trouble.

Hey. There's something wrong with the Winrar files I can't unzip them.

Thanks very much for posting. It's hard to find profiles so I appreciate you sharing yours

Dear Braunbaer,

Thanks a lot! But I am having problem installing the Prusa Slicer "with custom settings" I can't find that option (I'm on Mac). I have tried downloading the package from prusa.com and just the Prusa Slicer from GitHub. No matter how I do, it is installed as "standard".

And then, well within the program, the import of the ini-file doesn't work.

Do you have any idea of what to do?

Many thanks in advance!

ehm... then install standart and load the profile afterwards this should overwrite all settings but you have know serverel settings like Pursa PLA Abs PETG..... just delete those. if this dont work contact me again

Thank you for helping! :-)

I think I made it work. Had to setup the Ender 3 as a printer first. Then I could import the ini-file. Is it correct that there is one profile (PLA)? Curious about retraction settings - there doesn't seem to be any of those?

Kind regards

I think your rar files are corrupt. I use 7-zip which is compatible with rar and they are not able to be opened.

got no problem opening it. try WINRAR

Ok winrar works but why not just use zip files so people do not have to download and install an additional program? Still confused as to why 7z didn't work also b/c rar files are compatible. Well anyway thank you for sharing and helping us new people out.

i understand youre point of view and change it over the weekend.

Comments deleted.

I have not fully understood how to import rar files to prusa slicer. I found Your work trough a youtube video, but at the time the video was filmed you hsd a different file format.

Download Winrar... unpack the .rar File.... then import the settings files

Hi, I've noticed that the profiles were updated recently. Can I ask what has been improved, especially on Ender3?

-Organised Files in .rar, older versions in Older Version.rar
-Only For Cr10 at moment. 3D Printbed and Textures.

Is there a profile for the ender 2?

try Ender 3 Profile change Bed shape and Maxi print height in Print Settings Tab.

Do you have any new ender 3 profile in the new 2.1 version?
Thank you very much for answer.

u can use the same profiles

Ender3_V5 right?

yes. all V5 profiles have just different Print bed Size, the rest is the same

V4 to V2 are mainly for Cr10 indentet but u can ajuste the printbed size to Ender 3
but the early version V2 and V3 have a high Acceleration so i suggest V4 ore V5

Thank you very much.

I have a CR-10 full rail Misumi, BMG Bondtech and AIO Evo With Touch-Mi and Marlin 2, and I am having problems with the use of PrusaSlicer 2.0.
When I stop a print, the head is not going to the position and my bed go to the origne but don't stop when touching the endstop instead off going infront of me. With S3D, no problem ...
My home are conducted in perfection but that's all.
You can advise me?

As i understood "Youre Printer fails after stoping to Home Axis X and Y" Correct my iv i missunderstood.

-When i Stop a print the X and Y Axis stop at Position but Stepper motors are free to move
because there is now specific G-Code in Slicer/Prusa for Stoping.

-So i Think in S3D is a option for the behavior of ther printer when it stops, search for it. This coud mean that youre Marlin firmware has no behavior set for stoping a print, and in this case S3D writs Gcode behavior for stoping. Ive youe installet Marlin yourself search for those Stop behaviors also mind that Mariln 2.0 got meany bugs.

I don't think that the problem coming from marlin 2. When i interupt a print, the printer must go where marlin's setting are set. S3D use them, but prusaslicer don't seem to use them...
Do you think your CR10_V5.ini is compatible with my printer profile ?

Hm i never got this problem, i have a CR10s with marlin 1.1.9

-Try Profile CR10_V4
-u can also try my marlin version for CR10 which i uploadet aswell as .Hex File .Be aware that this version has no Autobelevel activatet in marlin.

I gona check the CR_10V5 again tomorrow meaby i missed something. But i hope it will work fo you because cura and s3d are in my opinion not at the same level as PRUSA SLICER

I finally managed to launch a print with the CR-10V5, the only problem, it seems that the step / mm of my Z-axis are not correct ... Normally I'm 800 and there it looks like they are 400 is too weird bugs that I have with this slicer.
And when I use the Nozzle Park Feature option, I never have the Z elevation before joining the breakpoint in X and Y ...
And finally, this over-extruded background while I use my settings calibrated for S3D ...
Really weird, I thought not so much hassle!

Hi cant understand your qustion. Dit you use a english translator?

-Dit you try my Marlin CR10 version ore stock Firmware from Creality?
-Dit you try CR-40V4?

Sorry I'm French and use sometime Google translator...
I only use your cr10v5 profile, with my marlin2 that I use with s3d.
I will retry tomorrow... I'm boring for the moment. I need more time to do some test...

Thank you and a big big compliment. Just made the switch from Cura to PrusaSlicer with your setting on a Ender 3 and Klipper.
Unbelievable how much difference there is. The first 1 hours is past and every layer is super and looks beautiful. Did the same print in Cura and that was fas from good with profiles from Luke Hatfield's. For sure the profiles are good from him but this is so much better.

Keep up the good work.

WOW !!!! That's a wonderful job, many thanks!!!

I have an Ender-3 with BLtouch but I'm figuring out if I have to put G29 into the Custom G-Code...thanks!

Hi yes i woud do it befor every print
my start gcode is

G28 Y0 X0 Z0 ; Homing all axis including Z
G29 ; Autobedleveling

Thanks so much for sharing, you do great job!
I change some things to Ender 3 start\end gcode and Bed size.

Thanks for sharing your profiles, I start in 3d printing and having started with cura, I find slic3r really good. Just one question, I have a pro cr10s. Are there any differences between the verion 5 for cr10 and the pro cr10s version with auto leveling? If it's just for auto leveling I prefer to take the profile cr10 because I have my start/end gcode with autoleveling anyway, thanks for the answer.

I also forgot, I print with a nozzle of 0.6. I can just change the size of the buze in the configuration but do I have to change something else like for example the width of line?

-yes theyre the same just with gcode for autobedleveling at the start.
-Just nozzle size change as you did shoud be enough

Thanks for your reply

This is so awesome. Your V5 Alpha profile worked great with my stock Ender 3. Thanks so much!

I struggled with some many other slicer software (including but not limited to Cura). Using Slic3r PE with V5 Alpha worked like a charm.

I printed my first vase in vase mode :)

Working awesome on my Ender 3! (using v4 for now) - never knew I could print such high quality so quickly!! - a note for new users, don't panic if your cooling fan isn't running - it will ramp up as your surface area gets smaller and time/layer goes down.. which is brilliant!

Vielen dank! The v4 profile is so much better than the cura default for 10s. Works great!

Can I use this profile with Ender 5(as it use same size build plate and hotend with Ender 3)?

I just cannot use cura on my linux PC anymore, so I looking in to other slicer. Prusaslicer looks good to try but it's make me confused as a new user.

U can use the cr10 profiles(V5 i Suggest) but u have to change the print bed Size see Pictures.

I cant find a good Tutorial at the moment because they all use the standart Prusa Profiles which we cant use(u can but they are for prusa printers) or they are in German...

but here is a video from Prusa which covers some parts

ups i forgot that you also must change Max print height to 300, it is under Bed Shape

Is Somone intrestet in a simpel guide vor Bltouch sensor?

I use a 14 Dollar Aliexpress Sensor with the stock Creality Bltouch firmware (so now messing around with marlin)

Works very well on my Ender 3 stock configuration!! Thank you very much. (V5 ALPHA VERSION).

These are beautiful on my Ender 3 (tested PLA and PETG so far). v4 seems to be the sweet spot for me. Thanks for sharing!

Can u share youre settings for PETG? I woud like to expand my profiles and i had not much luck with PETG so far.....

All I did to the v4 config for petg was change the temperatures. Nothing else (though I do need to update the speed to cut it by about half)

Hotend - 230 first layer, 240 subsequent
Bed - 80

It looked fantastic on a CCTree glass bed with the microporous surface.

did you use an enclosure and what PEGT brand?

I only use Amazon brand PETG anymore (unless they don't hurry up and restock black!).

No, my Ender 3 is not in an enclosure and I am using the stock hotend cooling

Ok I used Prusa PETG from my Roommate.

Sad i cant use Amazon anymore, they decidet to cancel the Contracts with Switzerland an f**** off 4 months ago :(
but at least we got no Article 13 : )

I have had nothing but bad experience with Prusament (even in my MK3). That sucks you can't get your hands on the Amazon brand; it works better than all of them for me. I've given up on esun, prusament and hatchbox all together.

Yes Pla but Abs an PetG shoud also work but you need to change temperatur on Nozzle and Printbed

The profile worked pretty well. I made some tweaks and turned on bed heating and a few other things. I've printed a bunch of torture tests files with my variation and am super happy with the results. I could not have done it without your V3 as a baseline. THANKS.

Since it's not really a "remix" I thought I'd just post it here and let you decide if you want to add it as a Version 4 or not.

I will look at it THANKS!.
there are also a other changes i woud like to do because i had some stringing issues with Pla. me and a friend changed some setings like z hopping and there was less stringing but when you print small objekt like fingers ore those Grid Torture test if there small enough den the nozzle can brake the strukture or throw it ower because the nozzle is hitting a small plastik bubble....
In All i woud like do make a standart setting and meaby some diffrent settings for smaller and larger parts.

Do you have some expirience withe the Extruder Limits Settings in Printer Settings tab?
because those arre standart settings and a friend had sendet me his Prusa mk3 Settings and they gave me som worriers abbout the acceleration,jerk,feedrate....i think the cr10 can not make that performenz shown in the settings and does so only the maximum what it can make. it woud be nice to have a source of those settings.
At the moment i have reduced those settngs by half but i cant Test it because my Printer is broke the Printer does not heat up the nozzle and bed and i got red error leds shining on Mainboard. I Asked the support on gearbest but they really slow and not cabable of handling the situation...
So i Asket a Cr10 Forum and they sed it cout be cables ore mainboard so after cheking i bought a new mainboard and it is now on its way to my in like 1-2 weeks! And sorry for my bad enlgish

I'm not experienced enough to help with the settings but I will say that I have had some frustrations with my CR-10. After several months of good printing I started having lots of issues and finally decided to do some maintenance and replace a few parts. Also I had been using CURA for my slicing but decided to go back to SLIC3R, which is why I'm using your modified profile. After all of these parts upgrades/changes and using SLIC3R I finally am getting the results I got when I first got the printer. I have access to a Prusa I3 MK3 at work and I a getting very similar print quality with my CR-10 after all of these changes.

1- I replaced the extruder assembly with this one from Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PFHM1F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. (After reading a LOT of forum posts I decided to replace the extruder and I think this my be the best decision of all my changes. The new extruder assembly is all metal and seems to have better "teeth" to grab the filament.)
2- I replaced the bowden tube with a Capricorn tube. (I'm not sure this is necessary but since I was upgrading the other parts I decided to try it.)
3- And I replaced the hotend with a new one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076V64ZR7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. (I think I printed with my original hotend at too high a temp at one point and it never worked the same again, so I replaced it.)

So i have now made a new version V4 which decrease reduce the vibrations and also made some speed changes like in youre profile.

So what i have changed now on my printer which i think is a must have is
-New Mainboard (the first one was broken)
-Stepper Mootor Dampers which are really cheap and makes the printer overhaule quietter.
-quitter Fans for extruder and Powersupplay and know my printer is as quiet as an prusa i3mark3
-Removabel printbead Surface which is from creality
-new hottend because the temperatur capsle broke and the nozzle didnt heat up
-several printet parts like bed screw in large and filmament sensor clip holder and a HotendHolder which has better air_Flow

if someone is intrestet i post the links with my Upgrades

New to the 3D printing but very interested in trying your slicer setup. Currently using Cura for slicing is it difficult to move from cursa to Prusa?
Thanks in advance

i switched from Cura and it was not that hard just Download it, its free and watch some Turtorials