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Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Articulated Dragon Seven point five And Nine

by 7Fish Oct 14, 2018
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Wow! Nice project you got there! I am really impressed by your work!

I am thinking about putting some servos and a Nano Arduino board in the print, for moving the Head, Jaw, Eyes, Wings and Tail.
Have you ever tried it? You don't mind if I modify your .STL so that it could fit components inside and putting gears in it?

If you have tried and succeeded, do you have any heads up?

Thanks again for this incredible project!

I've been printing this, had some fun with the head. Oriented as is, I keep getting a dragon with an Afro instead of horns, whether I use the pre-made supports, Cura tree supports, or Cura line supports with interface and towers. Most of it is probably that my filament is wetter than I'm used to, although I've just dried it and appear to still be getting an Afro-dragon. I have gotten decent (not perfect, but usable) results with the no supports head remix, orienting it with the mouth downwards so that the tips of the largest horns are pointing straight up. The front of the lip comes out a little deformed, but the rest of the head prints fine. Got the neck, body, and tail nicely (tail tip and a few of the other pieces need to be dropped a little bit to give enough of a base to stick to the print bed, but that's an easy fix). I haven't printed any of the balls to connect the pieces yet, that's my next step.

Also, how do you pose the dragon if the body is floppy like a dead fish?

Can you please update it to have the head without the supports? :)

also, the joints are all lose in the sockets. Head plus 8 neck pieces is just a dead floppy fish for me.

No-supports head has a remix:

As for posing the dragon, it is designed so you can run a fishing line, string, or piece of elastic cord through. If your joints are fitting too loosely, my bets (at this point, I haven't tried fitting mine together yet, so I'll admit I'm entirely theoretical right now) would be either to print ball joints with tighter tolerances, (either by using the lower tolerance ball file or making the one you're using 1 or 2% bigger), or use the elastic cord (cotton string can work well, but you have to keep a good tension on it to keep the dragon posable). Another option is to string it with copper wire instead of elastic cord.

Seven head with NO SUPPORTS

How would i use the elastic cord or copper?

And i printed the 0 tolerance ones, still floppy, plus tbh, the ball pops off quite easily. So i kind of wish there was a collection of all the parts with for example all the balls alsready attached and fused together with the pieces. That way i don´t have to glue on anything afterwards. And hotglue ended up melting the poor parts too lmao. Superglue popped off easily too. And i got luckily only one part left, and my dragon is done, and will not be posed often as the parts falls apart quite easily, especially the fingers, and the ancle joint to the foot is as loose as it can be as well.

If you've already printed the zero tolerance balls and they're still popping off easily (and not breaking), you could try increasing their size slightly. Dragon seven has the balls in one piece with the pieces, as I understand it, and 7Fish did these separately because of their tendency to break. You could see how many of those parts are interchangeable, or use meshmixer to combine the pieces (load the two peices, separate shells, position the ball joints, then boolean combine or make solid), if you prefer them together.

Run the string/elastic cord/wire through the holes in the peices (easiest to do if you haven't put it together yet). This dragon was inspired by Braq (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:854575), which is an entirely cord-connected ball jointed dragon that has a video of how to put him together, it might help with this question? Every piece in the neck/body/tail has a hole in the center of the connection, run the wire/string/cord through the holes the length of the dragon (pull it tight before tying off if you're using string or elastic cord). I haven't looked closely at the hands/arms/legs/wings yet to see if they can be strung, but I believe they can be.

"Braq" jointed dragon
by bq3D

I have the same problem with the eye balls. A part is missing in stl-files, I fear.
Who can help?

Dragon Seven eyes clip
EYE SET for "Seven the Articulated Dragon"

How can I let the Eye balls to stay in position ?

I used plumber's epoxy (cheaper than "green stuff" by games workshop or Apoxie Sculpt, but does the same thing, minus the ability to smooth it with water and with a much shorter sculpting time) to hold eyes in. Auto-body scratch filler putty would also work. There's a couple remixes of this dragon for eyes, that include a cross-piece to hold them in place. Super glue around the edges of the eye sockets would probably also work.

I just stuffed toilet paper in between the eyes to pose them.

What's the use of the ball 0.1 and 0.05 and no tolerance? can they all be used on every part? cause it didn't say, and when i tried 0.1, it didn't fit neck 1 and 2.

And what do you mean mirror X?

If printed at 100%
HOW big is it going to be, fully assembled? from head to tail - foot to wing
Also, have any ideea what it's weight is going o be? 300g something?

Anyone tryed to down scale? 75%?

The pieces for me printed at 0.2 fit, but some parts aren't stiff enough and some parts is really loose and can't make it pose like yours. And the tail fin doesn't fit. There's a big gap in it.

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After taking a break, I'm trying this again. I got the legs to print and I'm trying to assemble them, but I can't figure out how these pieces fit together. The lower legs and the feet don't seem to connect to the middle leg piece.

Are there instructions or a video I am missing on how all these pieces go together? I have a feeling I am doing it right, but if I am then the way the balls were printed makes them such pain to assemble.

i started at tail piece 21 and start back I'm on 18 and i can't get them to connect do i have to run a cord through it or something els?

I seem to be the only one having this problem, but my slicer doesn't seem to like these models. The preview shows the first piece being full of gaps and holes. I know some of that has to do with the walls being so thin, but the gaps around the numbers and horn are results of sloppy modelling. in blender, using the 3d printing addon, it shows over 100 non manifold edges and over 400 intersecting faces. I fixed the non manifold edges but that didn't help. Am I missing something? I'm using simplify 3d and I would really like to print this model. Thanks

slice it in cura it printed very well for me

Ok, so I was able to figure it out. For anyone else having this problem in Simplify3D, here's how to fix it. to fix the holes in the thin walls, select "perimeters only" under external thin wall behavior. To fix the issue with the intersecting faces, go to Mesh, Separate connected surfaces.

Have you tried enabling " retraction " and "z Hop" it lifts the nozzel away when travelling. Also you could enable the travel not to pass over built areas in your preferences. but I was able to print using z hop only.

Hello. Trying to print this. Started with the head because it looks the most difficult. I have tried 3 times, gets to about half way up the main horns and 1 of the horns will break loose like the supports aren't really touching it. Any suggestions? Using petg.

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Can you post one without supports? I have been trying to get a segment to print all damn day and the support keeps coming off the bed and ruining the print. My slicer can generate the sports it needs, these are wasteful.

Hello, first time here with articulated print and I have some questions.

How did you print the ball? These supports are connected to the ball and I'm not able to cut them off, I have to break entire bottom of the ball to get rid of these supports. I guess I will have a problem with all balls and joints with these supports. I tried various resolution and infill options with no success.

Anyway, about the assembling: Would be gluing the ball into the socket enough? Are strings optional and not mandatory?

Super glue should be enough and I didn't need to use string but if you think that will help go ahead.

How much filament does it take?

Hi 7fish
I am new to the world of 3D printing, I have only had a printer for 1 month. this is my fist multi part print but i have a lifetime of engineering experience which helps.

I have just finished printing your very nice dragon, as you have mentioned in your "read me" file the ball and socket joints are a bit loose.
however I have overcome this problem by cutting some pollythane sheet discs and inserting them on assemly between the ball and socket. This takes up the gap and gives a little friction to the model. I have used this method on all the large ball joints it makes the dragon poseable and can support itself once positioned.
nozzel temp:- 205c
bed temp:- 60c
method for printing:- BUILT ON A RAFT WITH GENERATED SUPPORT TOUCHING BASE PLATE using all your presupported modles, this method gave me zero fails
I have printed two dragons at the same time so the print time was quite long but well worth the effort. I will update the post once I have fully completed the assembly with pictures and comments
hope this helps those that are having problems.

Why is there no Neck 04 file?

it is there in the files

Can we get the model fully assembled? Thanks!

I think if the model was fully assembled it would 1. take too much time for the average person 2. would be too big for most people who don't have a big enough printer and 3. it's easier to print everything separately

Then I suppose you wouldn't be printing the fully assembled one. That doesn't mean it shouldn't exist.

Фантастика!!!! Сколько терпения!!!

what filament did you use

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

anyone can estimate how much time is gonna this print take?

just got finnished printing and painting it.. i fricking used 20hrs on the painting... but it gave results... il do a photoshoot on wedensday

What is used to connect the forearm lower to the forearm foot hub? Thanks.

Going to print this guy out for my sister and give it to her for Christmas, scaling it 200% it's going to be a beast! Going to use PETG for the joints as they should be more accurate and slightly flexible, all else will be high quality PLA.

Thanks for the design!

I'd love to see it!

very nice design.

buuut i have some problems with the cutting template, bechause i have a very tiny printer (profab 3.. i think) so it does not fitt.. i probably can mannage if i spend some hours to figgure out how to splitt them up.. buut it woul probably take 5 min fore someone that knows what they ar doing... (sry my english)

found out that i can splitt it whit putting it under groud and printing half and half verticaly

Thanx for this design
I think that it is very useful for schoolchildren and for preschool children

Pain having supports included. Please produce some without.

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None of the teeth on the top head nor horns are connected to the mesh, you really are going to need to run all of these through a repairer before printing otherwise they will literally print with a small gap around them all and come off when you take the supports off (as in they are not joined at all.. there is no being careful.. you will have no spikes on the back of any of the body pieces unless you repair them. I'm uploading a fixed version for all the issues I had when printing this because I think it deserves to be printed by as many people as possible, this is a really nice print it just needs some TLC

I'm working on mine at 200% scale, at least with cura 3.51 everything is attached, due to the built-in support tolerances increasing with scale, I used .1 mm horizontal expansion, this takes care of the support gaps and any little gaps that may be within the model- I have the head assembled so far, and I can tell you, you need a heat gun to custom fit the parts- without some heat, you will have a bad time.

Going to print all body pieces it PLA, but the ball joints are going to be run in PETG as they have some flex to them, smoother and are more dimensionaly accurate.

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Not sure how to keep the eyes in the head, but I just jammed them in there and used the jaw to hold them in place. They LOOK like they're supposed to snap into something, but there isn't anything for them to snap into.

Also, none of the ball joints seem to want to snap in. I printed the first one with no tolerance, and the rest of them with 0.05 tolerances. None of them want to snap in, and none of them want to stay together on the model.

The instructions really don't clear anything up, either.

Use sticky tac to keep the eyes in.

Use a heat gun to gently heat the joint and pop it in, just heat it a little so it gives but doesn't deform.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Sorry to add so many comments, but anyone having issues with Tail 21, try cutting the model down from the base by about 2mm. I noticed the first few layers and the main base of tail 21 is extremely thin and wasn't adhering well to my bed, no matter what I did to try and fix it. To get it to print i had to cut off that thin base.

only Tail 21 is thin for you? what slicer and nozzle size do you have? im using a normal 0.4 nozzle size but i cant render the bottom layers of almost ANY piece from the neck or tail as more than a couple of tiny dots!

I just did my test on that part. No issues. End bed end part dose need a bit of cleanup, but it printed perfectly to the stl file. Issue I have is there is no way to join it to tail_20.

Now that I am putting the body together, I see how they join. No issues at all.

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Do you have the files without supports?

it is really easy to remove the supports in mesh mixer or if your slicer has a split STL feature

Do you need to mirror the legs and arms and wings in order to get a left and right leg and arm and wing??

Printed out the head and jaw using PLA. Found that you do not want to load too many pieces together in a print. No more than 4 parts together in CURA. Just load them into CURA and let the software place them. I tried to move them around and make it neat, but it failed every time. Once I just put them into CURA, and let the software place them, they printed great (so far on the legs)

I know you need to mirror the upper leg and I think the calf in the back and the at least the foot on the front. I'm not sure about the wings. Try looking at their original Articulated Dragon #7 there's a more detailed build list there.

Yeah I had and still have the same issue. Adding more than 4 parts to the bed just ended in disaster. The only exception being tail 1-20 and the ball pieces. Were you able to get tail 21 to print? I cannot get that piece to print successfully no matter what I try.

I have not tried to print the tail yet. I wanted to get the legs/arms and body done. I will do Tail 21 tomorrow night and see. I don't see everything in Cura that would stop it from printing. What are you having an issue with?

No idea. I didn't see anything either, but the print keeps failing between 45 and 83% of the way through.

I will try and print it tomorrow. What are you using to print and what type of material? I have a TEVO Tornado with Cura. I am using PLA. If you are the same I will share my setting.

I used a prusa mk3 with prusa abs which didn't work out too well. Then I switched to atomic filament pla and that's giving me some trouble now. Both materials were sliced with Slic3r.

Posted reply above. Just cannot add my photo of it.

Finally able to upload a pic. Are you using a headed bed? If so, what temp are you running at?

Can you please explain how to put the neck together (the ball joints and neck sockets)? I cannot see exactly how they fit together.

You need to print out the ball stl file, I used the 0.5mm tolerance with good success. The post on one part gets the ball, then push it into the socket of the piece that goes next.

How did you put the eyes into the head?


That's an awesome Model man, Can't wait to print it and show it to my son.
However during my print of the head I noticed that one pair of the back horns is missing supports. Starting at 227th layer.
Can you fix it please?

Sorry Sir, i am currently unable to access to desktop to fix your requests
And Please be careful with this Dragon as it consisted of bunch of experiment joints i am unable to assure this dragon can finish the build.

I am deeply sorry for This.

I'm about halfway through the build right now. I'm working on printing the legs and have been assembling most of the body as I go, but I'm noticing that the more I add, the more some joints tend not to stay in place. Like right in the middle, the front half of the body keeps detaching from the ball and socket. Same with one of the neck pieces. I pressed them together and got them to stick, but it feels like a very flimsy connection.

This dragon is freaking amazing I can't wait to print it out

For anyone having issues with the Neck_05 file, I've uploaded a fixed version here. It might not slice the custom supports as well as the original, but it appears to slice the main body fine.

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Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App
Comments deleted.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App
Comments deleted.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App
Comments deleted.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

These dragons look so cool. I can't wait to start printing them. I want to try printing it ABS, any tips on making sure the parts don't warp?

Any chance you have this model in stl format all assembled? I'd love to try this print on our SLS machine and we dont have a need for supports and can print the joints in situ. Thanks in advance!

Sorry; My most of snap fit Ball jointed model like Articulated dragons heavly rely on FDM Pilaments elasticity, the balls supposed to bend inward into soket and i don't know what properties SLS material have, if it have smilar elasticity properties like ABS or PLA or not..
if not.. i will not recommned try as it might unable to put the the balls into sokets..

These are great models. The built in support, with numbering is such a fantastic idea. Thank you for all the effort!

Hi ! I send you this message because I have som troublse with the Ankel_Joint file
First: The hole gets clogged in my slicer
Second: the support inside the other part is a problem for me. However, I print quite slowly and without going too hot, and have no problem of over-extrusion

EDIT : i have a trouble with tne Neck_05

Thanks for sharing the update. Looks like Neck#5 has some layers covering the whole inside about half way up.
I haven't printed it yet, just reviewed it in the slicer.

Getting things ready to run tomorrow.

I have the same problem with Neck5.

I've added a fixed version here, as best I could.... The custom supports dont seem to slice as nice on my model, but it should work.

Looks absolutely amazing!

This is so cool. I was just wondering, what did you use for the wing material?

Another amazing model! Thank you very much for sharing it here! What material did you use to print it?

it was just cheap ordinary ABS Grey which made in china nothing special.

Love your models man, glad to see you're still going. I just finished your sea monster and I'm eager to get started on seven (either this one or the original)

It's been great learning what balljoints work and dont work based off of other peoples designs, hopefully I can utilize the same methods to make some of my own amazing models but that's a far way away as I have no modeling experiance currently.

Keep up the amazing work!

Thank-you for your time and effort to share this


Great kit!
thank you for sharing!
by the way, it is possible for you to design some articulated realistic animals like lobsters or beetles?


only things i had built like them was Articulated Scropion hybrid monster girl.. and it was not good result.

i was been think about build Spider hybrid monster girl but i could not decide which spider species i wil use as lower spider body.

anyway, i had not practice with them as i am unfamilar with those things anatomys..

did you have good picture for them to try to build articulated model?

by the way, did you have some picture of Shen Long (Chines dragon) for articulated draogn? i wish it had pretty face..

Thank you.

The scorpion hybrid girl is also pretty awesome! I think the result is already very good and it is not whether it can stand on itself that defines it as a good model or not.
My barbarous solution to the weakness of the joint is to apply a drop of instant glue to the bowl of the ball joint then immediately plug in the ball and move the parts in max speed and range. Then a thin layer of glue will dry evenly in the bowl and the joint will be a little tighter, not a lot but a little better. The strength of joints is always a problem in articulated models and compromises had been make sometimes by simply putting a stand at the bottom.

About the reference picture, try google 自在置物 (don't know the official English name LOL), it is the name of a traditional Japanese crafting skill and art, which was originated from armor making then developed into articulated animal( from fantasies and from reality) models. KAIYODO, a Japanese toy brand had put some 自在置物 toys to the market, including orient dragon, Kirin, horse and other things. There are a lot of pictures of those products from different angles and also reviews on Youtube. I personally consider their orient dragon and Kirin are pretty close to what I saw in traditional Chinese and Japanese paintings. Can be very nice reference ( I think).


Input Recived!

Thank your supports!

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