Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

HansvK

Hubsan X4 box

by HansvK Apr 26, 2014
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Printed one inPLA and one in ABS. The PLA one is perfect and rigid enough. After several attempts, I finally got the ABS settings correct and it printed perfectly, HOWEVER, the walls are too thin and flexes too much. I tried having a go with sketchup to make the walls thicker, but I am defintely not a 3d designer, and got nowhere after several hours. The vertical adhesion is not great and as there is no fill all the way through the straight bits, it is much weakened.
Printing with Flashforge Creator Pro:
PLA:
215C with bed at 30C
Bed with blue painters tape over Capton tape.
ABS:
240C with bed at 90C
Bed with Capton tape only.
Having said all that - Great box, thanks a stack.

I'll post pics of my make, but how are you guys able to get STRONG enough layer adhesion for this box to be practical? After over 9hrs to print both I'm so annoyed that an otherwise dialed in machine and this print visually pretty perfect (no major layer separations on the box side, etc.), upon even slightest squeeze or pressure has now literally popped the inner box rings loose and detached all together (still in one piece), and a couple other layers on both the box and the lid instantly cracked apart and separated.

This is Hatchbox white, but on 2 different i3's this seems commonplace that I just cannot rely on strength on the vertical z direction of layers. I do read that vertical prints can suffer from "not as much" strength in this direction vs the other, but having almost every print unusable strength-wise on the vertical layers is rendering the whole 3d thing kind of unusable.

The two factors from my research it seems to be would be bed leveling, and temp. Other than maybe the 3rd of filament, is that correct?

I'm actually taking the 9hrs now to reprint this one after re-leveling (this i3 was pretty much perfect when I checked but releveled and even releveled xaxis with leveling rods) at the LOWEST temp I've ever printed but still within the Hatcbox specs of 185. The make I'm going to post was at 210 (top of their spec) as I always seem to fight with this z layer adhesion strength issue and figured that a higher temp would ensure those layers are melting together upon laying them down......but then did notice on the bed each layer looked like bit up curling up, resulting in 1st layer feeling a bit rough to the touch.......I know that 1st layer really sets the tone, is this just really a matter of fighting with this white Hatchbox temp-wise?

Any help is REALLY appreciated...this make happens to actually be one for daddy to store his flying toy......but my 2 little ones are starting to get pretty distraught that every toy I hand them now will snap apart in the first 2 min. so you'll be a hero if you can help me get any amount of vertical layer adhesion strength on my prints!

Posted my make of this with pics at: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:246250

The one thing I hadn't done was to measure and calibrate the extruder feeding. When I position/extrude 100mm using one of the rulers on here and mark then measure the filament at the feeder, I'm exactly 10mm short which I'm guessing is pretty bad. It may also explain WTF is going on here.......I'm asking for 100mm and only getting 90 meaning every print is being otherwise perfectly dialed in, leveled, temps, etc.........only then under-extruded by a whole damn 10%.

Now I need to read up and figure out what I need to set on this i3 (maker select) console to adjust this to fix it. Hopefully, it's not just a permanent shortcoming of this machine and I have to now set every print's gcode to extrude 110%. If anyone can shed light to help I would greatly appreciate it!

Hubsan X4 box

Hello, awesome case.
Is it possible to fit a H107P in this case.
Or maybe somone can make one? :)

I've tuned a remixed cover to fit the box, now everything is perfect.
Thanx Hans.

Quick query on the lid, apart from the slightly pointless logo on the inside (maybe change it so the logo is in-set on the outside). I did want to know the best method of securing the lid to the box. Right now, its quite loose and doesn't really do much other than sit over the top of the box which is a bit annoying in terms of using this as a secure box for carrying my x4 around.

Has anyone put anything like tape to increase the lip size or magnets to hold it together? I'd be interested in peoples approaches to this.

Thanks

Does it fit the H107L? Great item by the way.

I'm a little confused with the comments. So is this the version that is bigger for the 107D, or is there another model I should download for the 107D? Thanks a ton for doing this! The first thing I was going to design was a box for my Hubsan, and you have already done it!

EDIT - I answered my own question when I downloaded and unzipped. Just to help anyone else out who is also wondering. THE ZIP FILE CONTAINS BOTH VERSIONS!

Thanks again!

Thank you for the print.

I think having the wording on the top of the lid so it shows when closed would be great.

The Hubsan X4 is available in two versions. One with cam and another without cam.
The size for both versions is different. Eg. the X4 with cam is higher and the diameter of the skids are larger.
For which version (with/without cam) the box is designed? Thx

h107c is with a camera

Really like how this turned out for me....black box, red cover!

Just printed the cover. Will print the actual box tomorrow, 5 hours estimated.

Great item !!
Does it fit the H107L ?

I'll start printing tomorrow to prepare for the arrival of the H107D. Is as good as everybody says?

great box! My H107C fits perfectly.
Can you make one for the H107D?
If you make the circles for the feet about 10% larger I think it would be enough to fit it.

Your request is fulfilled.