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Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount for Prusa MK3 and MK2

by sneaks Sep 22, 2018
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what tolerance did you set the threaded bolts to? I can't seem to get them to thread no matter what I do, even though I'm now passing dimensional accuracy tests down to .2mm

I've printed hundreds of these without issues on both my Prusa MK3 and TAZ6. The tolerances are pretty tight, tighter than .2mm. What slicer/printer are you using? You may need to play with the "Horizontal Expansion" to get the inside hole on the nut larger.

Not doubting you or any of the many others who got it right, just trying to get my head around it. I'm using Cura and an Ender 5. I did just notice that I had a .5mm nozzle on my printer when it was set to .4 in the slicer which i fixed before the current run started

I just started printing 20 individual pieces from this all at once on Prusa MK3S with white PLA 0.2mm layer height, 3 perimeters, but realized after first layer had printed that I accidentally sliced with only 5% infill. Should have probably used a bit more, but maybe it's ok. Let's see how it goes :D The print is going to be overnight and take about 12.5 hours.

Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount for Prusa MK3 and MK2
by Haprog

Actually it turned out really good. No issues, and all parts seem to work nicely. I'll post a make later.

Good job with the integrated supports! Those worked much better than I would have guessed. Very clean surface after removing supports.

Thanks for the feedback and compliment on the supports! I'm glad it turned out. You may consider redoing the nuts/bolts at 100% - at 5% they may snap easy.

did you not have any problems with getting the threaded bolts to actually fit together?

This must be one of the better designed fixtures out there, great job. I had to attach a Microsoft LifeCam 3000 to it, so I chopped your fixture and glued it to another for the LifeCam https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2126754

LifeCam HD-3000 Mounting Bracket
by LoboCNC

@sneaks - GREAT design, and have downloaded it, along with a different Pi Camera case I found today, but have a question/request. I looked at all of your mounts, but I have a Geeetech A30, and since this thing has a HUGE Z-axis volume (420mm) I prefer to have the camera mounted to the Z-axis so the camera always follows that axis as it climbs on larger prints. Would it be possible to make a mount for the Z-axis on this printer (I understand it is an Ender-3/Creality CR10 clone). Thank you! - My compliments!

Sorry - Not sure why the above posted twice, BUT - I just fixed the problem for my machine which also includes the adjustable Z-Stop I had to install.on the machine by combining two .stl files I found into one part - See attached.

Nice! Glad you got it figured out ;)

@sneaks - GREAT design, and have downloaded it, along with a different Pi Camera case I found today, but have a question/request. I looked at all of your mounts, but I have a Geeetech A30, and since this thing has a HUGE Z-axis volume (420mm) I prefer to have the camera mounted to the Z-axis so the camera always follows that axis as it climbs on larger prints. Would it be possible to make a mount for the Z-axis on this printer (I understand it is an Ender-3/Creality CR10 clone). Thank you! - My compliments!

@sneaks - Love this design - been using it for a while but want to ask you for yet another "part". Searched and did not find anyone else asking for a fitting wall-mount?

Sure, I could give it a go in F360 myself - but better if you continued your series as you are the founder of it. Just like a 50x40x3mm pad with three-four 4mm(?) holes for screws and a first bracket to fix the first limb to. Thanks again for a nice design!

Attached. I haven't printed it to check. Let us know how it goes. @sneaks if you like it would ou consider including it in your base files?

@Roquen thanks for the nice feedback! I agree a wall mount would be a great addition. I have a few other projects I am working on, perhaps down the road, I will design on a wall mount. Thanks for the idea ;)

@sneaks, thanks for the great design! I finally got everything printed, beyond the brim I had to do for the camera holder back, I also had to print the bolts at 40% infill. I know that you say on the spec that it is 100% infill, but many places say that 40% is just as good as 100%. You might want to highlight on the bolts that 40+% should be used since otherwise they can snap when you are tightening, as 4 did for me. Again thanks for your contribution it is much appreicated!

@zenrelic thanks for the nice feedback! In regards to the infill percentage, because it is a mechanical part, I want them to be as strong as possible for everyone printing them. I posted the infill percentage that I used and tested, people can modify as they see fit.

Excellent design Sneaks. It prints beautifully on my Mk3S and everything fits together without modification or strain. I really like the design for printability, especialy the built-in supports. Unfortunately the camera mount doesn't fit my raspberry Pi Camera (B) Rev 2 as the circuit board and lens is bigger than the original Pi Cam. Has anyone done a remix for this camera? I have searched Thingiverse and can't find one.

If they haven't I'll have a go at designing one using Fusion 360 and your STEP files.

Thanks Ricky. Can you send me a link for where you purchased your camera? It seems like there is a lot of variations out there lately. I'm not sure if there is a new official model out, or if there are some knock-offs that look legit. I'd be happy to help redesign for an official one, but not for knock-offs.

Mount for Raspberry Pi Camera - Adjustable-Focus Lens (5MP)

Hi again Sneaks,
I used your CAD files and made an enclosure to support my camera. I'll post a mix shortly. Thanks so much for your design and making the CAD files available.

Hi Sneaks, thanks for the quick response. I got it here: https://thepihut.com/collections/raspberry-pi-camera/products/raspberry-pi-camera-adjustable-focus-5mp?variant=20063161843774 . Looking more closely at the website it seems that it is not and official camera. Understand perfectly if you can't make a mount for this as it is a knock-off.
If you don't want to do it I'll have a go myself, and if successful will post it here as a remix.

Can anyone with a MK3s share their print settings? I am having a hard time printing the raspberry camera back (raspiCamBacl V1). Im printing in PLA using the Prusa slicer.

Comments deleted.

@Voltron_ I just successfully printed it. Here is what I did to make it happen:

  1. Clean bed with acetone (was about the weekly needed deep clean)
  2. Wait for no trace of acetone
  3. Follow up with a 90% alcohol clean
  4. Repair .STL file with PrusaSlicer (probably not needed)
  5. Import new .STL file into PrusaSlicer
  6. Move object to front of bed (figured since center is most used area, use a less used area)
  7. Add 2mm brim to Printer Settings (as @sneaks mentioned, there is a lack of surface issue)
  8. When done, testing it before removing showed that it is well adhered to the bed.

I am having the same issue. I have had it fail now twice. The first time I thought it might have been since I was printing another object (which successfully printed) too close and had speed a bit increased. This last fail was just printing this part and at .15mm and 100% speed. Both fails were almost the same height, but slightly different layer. I will try again after different placement and a clean with Acetone and possibly a brim.

I've had similar issues as well. As I'm sure you've both figured out, the problem is there is very little surface area on the bed with this part. My solution for this (and similar small parts) is to scrub the powder-coated PEI sheet with a toothbrush and 91% rubbing alcohol before each print. If my Z-Offset is correct, this always works for me. If it still comes off, you may try lowering your Z-Offset so the nozzle squishes more material into the bed on the first layer.

Has someone come up with a convenient way to clip or mount the ribbon cable to the arm? I found this route to make the necessary conversion to use an HDMI cable, but then the housing would have to be redesigned.

I went to use this on my i3 MK3S and with the adjustment of the X-Axis the hole for mounting just didn't line up. Since the motor needs to be moved for belt tension maybe the mounting hole should be oval to be adjust for this. I think if I grind off about 0.5mm I could get this to fit but being adjustable to match the needs of the printer would be much better!

Any chance you can post a few pictures of the issue? I will see about downloading and modifying a bracket for the MK3S. Thanks for the help ;)

Hello i can used in i3 mk3s?

I have not seen any changes in the MK3S that would prevent this from working.

How is the logitec camera attached? I just got a c270 and would like to create a mount. I couldn't see a mount in your collection. Do you have something that can be remixed?

The Logitech C920 camera pictured has a 1/4-20 thread on the bottom of it. There is a simple bolt going through and threading in. From what I can tell online, your C270 doesn't have a 1/4-20 thread on it. I suspect you will have to make a remix if you want to use a C270.

Thanks for the swift reply, sorry I noticed after posting that there was a 1/4” .. maybe there is a C270 1/4”

I love this design. It's sturdy, stable and I can easily and quickly position the camera. The one thing that would make it better is if the lens opening were bit enough to use the cam manufacturer's focus adjustment tool without having to remove the cam cover. I've yet to take it apart without breaking it.

I thought I had one of those tools laying around my shop but I can't find it. Any way you could send me the dimensions on it? Or better yet, send me a model of it?

When I originally designed this, I tried really hard to make it print without supports (where possible). That is why the area around the camera lens is not wider. I'm sure I could make a variation of the cover that accommodates the tool, but it will need supports.

I don't think you'd have to make it that much bigger. The outer diameter of the part that connects to the lens is 6.96mm... so the hole would have to be at least that big. I'll try to get you a model, but maybe the dimensions on https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1574661 would help?

Raspberry Pi Camera V2.1 Lens Adjustment Spanner
by maker78


Really great design, thank you for sharing. Printed in Ender 3 Pro, (PLA, Creality slicer, basic settings, with brim, infill:100%, ), and I used some silicone oil for the assembling the nuts and bolts. It works perfectly.

Awesome tip on the Silicone ;)

Hi Brent, just wanted to say thanx for your excellent and professional design! So much fun to understand the endless possibilities and to print it that seamless. The supports are well done, everthing fits together smoothly and on top the industrial look with the variable color options is pretty cool. Now i have to decide to mount it onto the rod or to the x-motor, then only to install Pi Zero, Octoprint and the camera, bring the system online and see if my MK3s likes it. Not sure if this will go as easy as printing your mount ;-)

Martin, thank you SO much for the generous feedback.

Super design.Thanks for making this available.
I do have a problem when I print the ball nut. At the transition from the nut to the ball , I get a mesh effect instead of a solid surface. I cant seem to figure the problem out. The nut and ball are fine , it's just the neck that has an issue.

Message me a picture and I will take a look to see if I can help. Make sure to also include your printer type.

This seems to be happening lately. For the last month I have been printing steadily and having no issues. The last 3 days I have been getting this problem in the small diameters. I have an Ender 5 with stock everything. Printed at 215 nozzle and 60bed. Checked e steps yesterday. I printed 6 benchys with slightly different heat and extrusion settings and they all came out with that mesh in the stack

Unfortunately, there are so many things that could be causing your issues. I would suggest starting with some calibration prints; there are a ton of them on Thingiverse. Use a caliber and get your printer/slicer settings perfectly dialed in.

Awesome design! Thank you so much for your continued efforts in developing this project.

I’m running into an issue... the nuts are VERY tight on the bolts. I can’t even screw them down all the way. Is it typical to need to sand these to get them to screw on/off more easily? I was going to play with the horizontal expansion setting, but I don’t see a single person mention this below so it must just be on my end. Maybe I should print another calibration cube, but last time I did that (about a week ago) I was in pretty good shape (+/-0.1mm).

I have (had) the same problem. I thought my printer was fairly well calibrated but I just couldn’t get the nut or bolt to thread. There was a comment way down about scaling the bolt to 99%. I had to scale my x and y to 98% (kept z full scale for length) and now they fit the full size nut perfectly. Either my printer just can’t cope or there’s still more calibration to be found!

Sneaks - wonderful design, I printed off a set a few months ago but due to the bolt issue never finished. Now I’ve gotten the bolts to work I’m looking forward to seeing this on my machine.

After another calibration, I was in a little better shape but still had to do a horizontal offset of around -0.25mm. However, I have not printed a link yet to see how they nut/bolt fit with that. I may be better off scaling like you did to make sure that the bolt can fit through the hole in the link.

Did you find that you needed to do any scaling of the link? Or did you do 100% on the link and 98% on the nuts/bolts?

Just my 2 cents, I would stay on the path of calibration and Horizontal Expansion. While scaling your part may make it work this time, in the long run, I think you'll be much happier (and have much better success) getting your printer properly calibrated. Spend the time learning your printers settings and utilizing horizontal expansion. Ideally, when working with high tolerance items, you want your prints to reflect the designers dimensions as accurately as possible.

Sounds like you've made a ton of progress, you're almost there!

I just scaled the bolt to make the thread narrower. If you print it with the knurled head flat on the bed then scale the x and y axis to reduce shaft diameter. Everything else I printed 100% as designed and the links and nuts fit together perfectly.

Thanks Simon! Make sure to post your make so I can see it too ;)

Thanks Derek! Simply put, there are SO many software variables for 3D printers (and every printer is different). The tolerances required to get a nut and bolt to simply screw together requires your settings to be perfect. I would suggest putting a caliper on the inside hole of the nut and comparing it to the dimensions on the STL. I have two 3D printers, one prints the nut/bolt perfectly with default settings, the other I have to tweak the Horizontal expansion. My Prusa MK3 is the printer that prints these parts perfect with default settings.

Thanks sneaks. I printed a calibration cube to double check and sure enough I was overprinting too big. After calibrating X/Y/Z, I was in a little better shape but still had to do a horizontal offset of around -0.25mm. Looking forward to getting the whole thing printed for my Ender 3!

A very great job ...
I added a piece to use the rails of my Alfawise U20 printer.
I also adapted the "BallNut" to be in the extension of the arm?

Love the new Ball Nut design!! You should submit both designs to Thingiverse as a Remix so others can easily find it.

Great Design, Thanks for sharing. Can I ask did you paint your ribbon cable black? Just wondering if this is possible?

Thanks! I just used a Sharpie. So far it has held up pretty well.

Cheers, I will do the same, Also I might add My MK3 was a early release and it seems the X-Axis I need is the MK2 version. The regular version doesn't fit right.

Which x-axis bracket would I need for a Tevo Tornado (Creality CR-10)?

This is one of the nicest designs I have seen on Thingiverse. I can't get over how well it prints and how nicely it all goes together. The only part that I stumbled over was that the links had a support piece to be snapped off, but I figured it out. Thanks, and tip sent!

Steve, thank you for the nice feedback and the tip! Never expected but always appreciated!

You, sir, are a genious.


  1. I can't get over how simple yet powerful this design is! Working with these FF, MF and MM links is a joy and couldn't be easier - a five year old would easily be able to work with them - but you can do almost anything with this design.
  2. You don't need any nuts or bolts! I've always been into designs which are 100% printable but those are mostly optical, non-practical things. Having such a useful mount without the need of any screws (besides the one to mount it) is SO good!
  3. The parts have a really thoughtful and perfected design. Rounded edges where needed, clever alignment of parts and features and custom support that works like a charm (supports are one of the few things I don't like about Slic3r PE). I'm a 3D-Artist with quite a bit of experience in hard-surface modeling, and for 3D-printing I think your parts are pretty much perfect.

Thanks for making this and offering it here for free! It was obviously worth the effort!
Will be posting my make soon! :)

Wow! That is SO incredibly kind of you to say. Thank you for taking the time to write out such incredibly nice feedback. The funny thing is you touched on all the things I spent the most time designing. Your comment truly made my day.

This is the best camera mounting solution I have come across by a long shot, the form and function are really something to admire. The only issue was the fact I have an Anet A8 with these X carriages http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1919544 so the mount would need to be modified. I took the problem as an opportunity to attempt to modify an STL for the first time using tinker cad to chop sections off using hollowed rectangles and inserting solid rectangles where they needed to be. The end result doesn't have the beautiful attentions to detail you have included where I modified but I was able to get something that worked and I learned from it.

Anet A8 X-Carriage Mounts
by Leo_N

Nice job on the redesign! You should consider posting this to Thingiverse as a REMIX ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3114849/remix ). It will make it easier for fellow Anet A8 users to find your design if are they are having the same issue.

Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount for Prusa MK3 and MK2
by sneaks

Sneaks, this is incredible! Is there any way you could adapt a vice mount (like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2194278) or just a stand to this to make it more universal? I'd do it myself, but SolidWorks keep crashing on me and I'm getting frustrated. Lol

Modular Mounting System
by yyh1002

I second this.. I'm printing the parts for this camera mount now and was just wondering about a clamp for it. Funny, I was just looking at the exact clamp the MF10R3R linked to above..

Absolutely! I have a handful of ideas I want to do (including a clamp) - I've just been swamped with work and other projects.

Awesome!! In the meantime, I just phased the 2020 mount into a printable G clamp in Cura and printing that now. Let’s see this turns out...

... Still waiting for pics ;) . Did it work?

This looks awasome, but i would like to know which files and how many are needed for the mk3 using raspberry pi camera v2?

1 Print of Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount
by rajin

Why didn't I read the comments before printing... :(

This is a Masterpiece, the fitment and function is truly impressive. I hope my design skills will be this good at some point. Thank you!

Wow Jason, I really appreciate you saying that. I was actually having a bad morning and your comment made my day. Thank You!

Great design, Thanks!
My only suggestion after printing it, is to print the thumb nuts or bolts in different colors, to know which one to fasten or to loose, and avoid breaking them accidentally. Breaks the nice color scheme though ;-)

Thanks for a great camera mount!
It printed great and looks really nice!
Since I'm missing a mount for 3030 aluminium extrusions (Prusa i3 MK3) i created my own but following your design. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3419839

Articulating Raspberry PI Camera Mount for 3030 aluminium extrusions on Prusa MK3

Nicely done! Thank you for sharing it ;)

my links are breaking when i put the male into the female, and not breaking on the arms but in the middle of the link. other wise i love the design

I had the same experience!
Then I printed all thumb bolts and nuts with a fill of 100% -> massive!
And I printed one thumb bolt and the ball nut shrinked to 99%.
Then it fitted the cam back better, and could be moved & stayed in position.

Excellent design! Feature request, what do you think about adding a ribbon cable pass through slot to the 2020 mount? I did a quick prototype (see photo). It's missing the groves as my CAD skills is limited to Sketch Up and I couldn't get it to print correctly.

Every time I make a modification for someone, I feel like I am doing my kids homework for them

Thanks for posting the STL with the ribbon cable slot.

Comments deleted.

A v-slot mount for the bear frame would be cool!

What extrusion size is the "Bear Upgrade" Extrusion?

It is based on the open builds v-slot extrusions:

cad file is in that link:-)

General information about the bear frame:

Oh I forgot: The bear upgrade generally uses this kind of screw to attach printed parts to the frame: https://www.mcmaster.com/97763a820

Have you tested any of the Included or Remixed Extrusion adapters? They may work.

No not yet. I was assessing the options before I start the print:-) I did not see a v slot attachment so I thought I might ask you if you would consider to add one to the arsenal

No not yet. I was assessing the options before I start the print:-) I did not see a v slot attachment so I thought I might ask you if you would consider to add one to the arsenal

Have a Look - While they may not be a perfect fit, they may work perfectly.

I really love this print but I have a Smraza Camera Module for Raspberry Pi 3 B+ Wide Angle Fish-Eye Camera Lens "https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2SY756/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" any chance of a lens cover for it? Please

I have the camera that looks exactly the same, but bought as a no-name from aliexpress. I've adjusted the lense cover for it. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3782860

FishEye Camera Cover For Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount

If it is just a small adjustment of the existing cover I can. Do you have a caliper so you can get me the diameter of the lens?

I don't have them on hand but this fits it: https://www.thingiverse.com/download:730571

Ok - let me know when you get that dimension.

It is really hard to design something with out the product that is going inside of it. I did my best to use your drawing, unfortunately, if it doesn't fit I wouldn't be able to do it without the camera in hand. Even then, I'd prefer you learn to do 3D design ;) Hopefully this works!

Hi mate great design, could you tell me how to model the groves please I could not find any tutorials how to do this.

Solidworks calls it a Circular pattern, Rhino 3d calls it a Polar Array. Essentially you draw one shape, pick the center of your pattern, and tell it how many copies you want. That is a simplified description, but that is the gist of it. What software do you use?

Hi mate, I just checked your file section you have some step files, so I can just use that measurements and do my own articulating part in the future. I checked everywhere and could not find anyone uploading step files, I just needed some measurements how thick the male and female groves need to be for fitting. Thanks so much !

Awesome! Let me know if I can help ;)

Hi mate it's me again can you please release the step file for the nut and bolt please or dimensions if possible. Thanks so much !

I just Messaged them to you ;)

Hi Sneaks! This is an awesome design! could you add a head that would house a version of the raspberry pi camera with IR LED's on its sides? I use this one on Amazon in particular, is the one I use for a lulzbot at work, but I'd also like to use another one for a Prusa. There is already a design on here that fits that camera, but it is for the wrong printer. I'm having trouble getting parts to fit together (I just use tinkercad), can you help me out?

Heatbed Raspberry Pi (IR) Camera Mount

Hi Everett! Thanks for the kind words! I will take a look, and see what I can do. If it isn't too time consuming, I'll make the adjustment.

This just made my day! Thank you!

Raspberry PI IR Camera Articulated Case
by wbu42

Turns out, that design is for a slightly wider IR camera model. the design I linked to in the original comment fits really well, so if you've got time, maybe you could work off that? I could bodge something together potentially, but I'm just not sure if it will work as well.

Unfortunately this one I would need to have the camera for, plus it would take time I don't currently have. I highly recommend investing the time to learn 3D design, you won't regret it ;)

I'll do my best!

Thank you SO much for pointing this one out! It's perfect.

Edit: I realize now that the ir camera they modeled for is slightly wider...

Sneaks - this is a fantastic design! More praise to follow.

Ha! Thanks so much ;)

Hey thanks so much for this. One of the most satisfying things I have ever printed. Your design skills are quite impressive. I do wish now I had taken the time to print in two colors - next time!

I did hack together a bed mount spliced to one of your male fittings so I could do timelapses with the camera moving with the bed. Might be a good piece to add to your set.

Hey, I am curious how you made the support material for the links. I have never seen such effective and nice supports. I'd love to be able to set up clean breakaway supports like those. Thanks for any tips. Cheers -

Thanks Gregg! Your comment made my day.

In regards to the supports, it has been a work in progress; a lot of trial and error. I look for areas on the print that I know will sag and add the smallest support I can. I typically make a gap between the support and the part reflective of my planned layer height. ie if I am going to print in .2mm resolution, I make a gap of .2mm. Sometimes, all it takes is one small point to make the difference between sagging and the perfect print.

Hey sneaks! This is a unique and amazing design for a pi camera arm. Thank you for designing it! However I do have a question about the ball joint and camera housing part. First question: are the housing and ball supposed to be easily attached?

Second questions is: are they suppose to move or fixed in place? The reason I asked this because I assume the camera housing is designed to move in any angle given the fact that it sits on a ball joint, but that's not the case with my print, I have printed them twice and they were so difficult to attach to each other, and the moment I attached them, it was so stiff to a point that I broke them in an effort to make the housing move. Your answer and suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

I chucked the hex part of the ball in a cordless drill, then sanded with the drill running. I do a lot of woodturning/Lathe work, so it seemed natural to me. Then I put a coat of beeswax on the ball. Works like a charm!

Awesome idea, Thanks for sharing. I'm going to try the beeswax on other designs I have that need smoother movement.

I I also had the issue of my ball joint being locked in place. I sanded it smooth and now it's movable, yet still very sturdy.

I'd recommend printing the ball in as fine of layers as you can and then smoothing it like I did.
The ball was difficult for me to pop in as well, but that also becomes easier with sanding.

They should go together with minimal effort, and once together move freely.

I'm curious if your parts are getting printed larger/smaller than they are design. Do you have a caliper? The Ball should have a diameter of 16mm, and the opening on the camera back opening diameter should be 15.32mm.

What Printer / Slicing software are you both using?

I use a CR-10 S4 and I slice with Cura. I've only had the printer for 2 weeks now so it's likely that I don't have it dialed in quite right

Hey, I didn't rescale the parts, I printed them as I downloaded the files from thingiverse.

Unfortunately I don't have caliper at hand now, but i will take note to the given measurement, and will measured it with the caliper at my workplace. FYI, my printer is Prusa i3 MK3 and slicing software is Slic3r 1.42...

I'll let you know the update on the measurement asap.

I wasn't suggesting you rescaled them. If you download a part that is 16mm in diameter, slice it, print it, and the print is bigger or smaller than 16mm in diameter, you will need to make some modifications to your slicer software or calibrate your printer. Unfortunately, it isn't a simple answer and there are a lot of variables to it. 3D printers aren't a perfect science (yet) and there are a ton of variables to getting prints accurate.

Here is a great link to Prusa's forums explaining this exact thing: https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting-f62/print-size-is-inaccurate-x-and-y--t23791.html

A caliper is a pretty important tool if you printing things that require tighter tolerances (like my design). When I am calibrating a new filament or making changes in the slicer, I use the calibration cube https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865 - it is a great way to check the accuracy of your prints and calibrate your printer/slicer.

Good Luck!

XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube

I absolutely love this design. Thank you so much for making the 2020 t-slot bracket. That's what allowed me to mount this on my printer. I'm currently using it on my cr-10 s4.

I plan on designing a bed mount for the cr-10 series printers for those who are interested in making still time lapses once I get more familiar with CAD software. Maybe I'll post a remix.

Any tips on attaching the 2020 mount to an already assembled Prusa i3 Mk3? The channels are blocked by the end caps. I’m probably missing something simple.

They make a special nut called a "Roll Nut" that you can insert into the extrusion from the side; they are a must have. There are a few guys on Thingiverse that have made 3D printed versions but I didn't have much luck with them. Here are the ones I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HJSGUIQ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_lcErCb3C3DTSP

Here is a different style others like (I like the ones above better): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G43H78Z/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_3-DrCbN3VERHD

Hey Cameron - Thanks for the nice comment! I look forward to seeing with what you come up with on your remix!

https://www.myminifactory.com/competition/pimp-my-original-prusa-160 You should enter this contest for Prusa with this project and you may win!

John - Thanks so much for letting me know about this! I just submitted this bracket into the contest; fingers crossed!

Super, I just saw it submitted. I think you have a great chance!

I just saw your make - thanks for posting! I thought you may be interested in the newest update. Yesterday I uploaded a new part to fill the gap behind the camera; purely cosmetic: https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/7c/c4/a5/10/1f/bf09ef2e173c9979fc1068661beeac95_preview_featured.jpg

Beautiful work, I am excited to get this finished printing, I really enjoy the camera being on the Z-axis as it prints.

I do have the need for a lens mount to be screwed onto the pi camera. Would you want to modify one of your CamCovers to include a cutout for it?

It is a 17.2mm square with two circles 4.9mm wide spaced 21.1mm apart from each other across the horizontal center line.

Here is an Amazon link for the mounts:

Hi Brent, thanks for the compliment! I appreciate for the offer, to design something for you, but I will have to pass. If you want to do it yourself, the IGES/STEP files are in the files section of the download.

Not a problem, I had already downloaded the .STEP, and modified it to work.

I will create a remix then, and include the .STEP file as well.

Thanks again!

This is an amazing thing! I've printed enough pieces for a camera holder with no issues. Excellent work. I do have a question though. How do you remix items? I need to change the ball socket camera holder to accept a 36mm x 36mm camera. My newer manual focus camera for close ups is larger than the standard RPI camera.

To clarify, are you asking for files? Or asking for someone to Remix it for you?

Hi Sneaks. Thanks for the reply. I'm actually trying to figure out how the process of doing the remix myself. I'm currently trying to re-create the object using Sketchup, but am not that good with it yet.

UK Makers! I found a 3in1 lens set sold by Pimoroni that matches the threads on the lens enclosure: https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/3-in-1-camera-lens-set

Works great.

Thanks for confirming it works. For Australian makers you can pi the Raspberry pi lens set here https://core-electronics.com.au/3-in-1-camera-lens-set.html

Thanks for sharing! Also love the material in your picture, is that Prusament?

Yes! Prusament Galaxy Black, love the stuff!

I can't wait for it to get to the US - I've had my eye on that specific color since they released it...

I'm probably the only one asking for this, but can you make a male to male link? the biggest reason is that I printed 2 FF parts when there is only one possibly used in any configuration that I can think of. :)
Also someone asked about the bed mount and the best place I can think of would be to add a link to the top of the prusa made wire hider pieces at the back. Obviously some wire management will be necessary so nothing gets pinched/broken.

But so far everything is printing great! I just need that longer cable for the camera now haha

Hey Caleb - I just uploaded it, filename is "mmLink.stl"

Thanks for this awesome design!

I have a IR-Pi Cam, so I remixed this by modifying the ball joint mount to work with the IR cam.

Thanks for sharing your Remix - it looks awesome with the camera installed in it!

Hi, this is probably a silly question but how do you get that texture on the face of the cover and nuts and bolts? I see it on the Prusa printed parts as well. Can you please share your settings and printer info? Is that a .04mm nozzle? I'm really curious because I like how it looks and I can't seem to get the same results... probably because I'm new. Thanks!

Not a silly question at all! The new Prusa MK3 printers have an option for a Powder Coated PEI Bed. The bed is very porous and gives the parts that textured look.

Oh! haha ok thanks! Man, I feel like I really missed the boat. I just bought a Prusa i3 MK2 to save a little bit and come to find out the MK3 is leaps and bounds better. Live and learn I guess! :(

Any chance of STEP or fusion360 sources for this? It would make creating mounts for other printers easier

Excellent! I just about have a mount figured out for my monoprice maker select plus and this will help

Any chance you're working on a build plate mount?

Not at this time, but if you have an idea for one I'd love to see it.

Looking good. How about dividing different versions to own folders with full sets? Takes a while to figure out what I need to actually print one and what's a choice

To my knowledge, there is only one way to upload files and Thingiverse does the file/folder organizing. Do you know of a way to create your own file structure on Thingiverse?

Not unfortunately. What about different namings? Like Set1/V1 or such?

These parts are designed like Legos; there is not a "Full Set" per se. The idea is for people to be able to use the parts to build a custom mount to their liking. If you are having a hard time figuring out which parts you need, please feel free to private message me and I'll walk you through figuring it out. Thanks for your feedback.

Thank you for sharing this great mounting system.

As I own an Anet A8 printer, I made a different mounting plate that can be found here.

And because I have bought a clone Raspberry Pi camera from AliExpress I had to made some adjustments to the lens cover, which can be found here.

Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount for Anet A8
by aap007
Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera - Modified cover for clone RPI camera
by aap007

When I found this I immediately went and printed all my needed parts, but then when I went to assemble it on my printer I realized I had made a mistake. I am using another piece on my X-Axis to let me tighten the belt, since I have the original parts for the MK3 and not the new one where you can adjust it easier. Is there any way you could modify the bracket to fit the screw position with this piece? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2740715

I'm going to try and figure it out myself if I'm able, but it would be my first time doing that kind of adjustment for something. If you don't have the time for it, no worries! The articulating arm itself has already been a huge help for me.

Prusa MK3, MK2S X-Axis Belt Tensioner
by mhoyt

If you still need it, I ran into the same issue as I am also using the X-Axis belt tensioner (actually it's my design). I updated the xAxisBracket from this design slightly to work with the tensioner. STL is below.

aap007 just posted a remix that I think may work for you, have a look: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3213356

Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount for Anet A8
by aap007

Oh, awesome! I'll try it out later tonight and see if it works in my case. I'll let you know how it goes.

Edit: I printed it out and it seems like it might work. I will need to get some longer M3 screws, but it seems like I can mount in on top of the stock piece, screw through that, into the adjustment piece, then into the motor.

Comments deleted.

First of all, I think you've done an amazing job with the design. Thanks for that. I do have a suggestion for an improvement though. I think you should replace the small edge fillets with chamfers. When printed, there would be pretty much no visual difference, however it would reduce the face count on the edges. These fillets require a lot of processing power on the tiny movements and are causing some artefacting on the edges as a result. This looks great on 3d renders, but doesn't really work well when printing. Same on the tiny dimples around the holes, get rid of the fillets there altogether, they're just too tiny.

Thanks for the feedback! I will definitely take this into consideration on future designs.

You mention mounting to a 2020 extrusion, and I'd very much like to. Can you add what you're using for that?

I just uploaded the 2020 Extrusion Mount.

Awesome design that I'm now trying to test. However I found that the ball was kinda hard to turn at first and broke the first screw and that the front and back of the camera casing were a bit snug and hard to remove. I have not been able to find a smooth way to adjust the focus either. Otherwise I'm very happy with it. Good job!!

Unfortunately, I'm unable to print the links with success. I printed the support versions. First I tried without a raft and it failed because it didn't stick to the bed. The second time, I printed them with a raft, and everything went fine at the beginning. Then, I seems the pieces have broken away from the supports. (See the picture). Any thoughts from you guys?

I have periodically had issues with PLA prints sticking to my powder coated PEI bed too. 1st thing to check is your Z-Offset. You need to make sure you are "squishing" the first layer into the bed. I know it is super hard to see, but if you do some googling, there are people with calibration prints for this.

Second thing, when doing small PLA prints, I always clean my bed with alcohol and a toothbrush. Since I started doing this, small parts sticks great.

Hi. Thanks for the tips, but the second time I printed the parts, they cracked of the support. The support is still sticking to the raft, but the pieces cracked away, as you cann see in the picture. I printed some small filament clips for my spools, without a raft. They were sticking perfectly and they have very tiny bed contact.

I have not experienced anything like that before so won't be much help. Here is a link to my goto when I experience a new problem: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#layer-separation-and-splitting

Comments deleted.

A+ work on this thing, works great! Modified one of the links slightly so I could mount my Logitech C270.

Thanks Quentin! Do you mind posting your modifications as a Remix? I'm sure there are plenty of other C270 users that would appreciate your work ;)

Last image ever captured on the craptier PiCam mount :) Now if only this will hurry up and finish printing so I can print another! lol

Printed great and works even better.
Thanks for a great design!

Made on a Prusa i3 mk3 with Prusa PETG.

How heavy is it? Does the Z axes feels the extra weight?

Nice Make! Thanks for sharing!

Comments deleted.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Oops, not sure where my previous comment went, but in any case, it was an auto-generated comment from the 3D Geeks app.

Anyway, fantastic work! I've printed it for both my MK2.5 and MK3, and here are my observations:

  • The MK2 X-axis bracket works perfectly!
  • I ended up needing to use the MK2 X-axis bracket on my MK3 self-assembled kit. My MK3 must have shipped with an older printed X-axis stepper motor mount. Visually inspect your MK3 to see which X-axis bracket will work for you!
  • I had trouble with the camera back cover (the part that fits on the ball nut) lifting during my prints, so that was printed separately with a brim.

Same for me regarding X axis bracket on my MK3, Also had the issue of the cam back coming off prints when I printed all the black parts together. Failed twice on the same part before deciding to print that part by it self. I used Prusa petg filament. I wish I saw this comment earlier. I feel both issues should be in the Thing details.

Thank you for confirming the MK2 bracket works!

I had the same problem with the camera back coming off my bed (I have Powder Coated PEI Bed). I lowered the Z-Offset a tad and started cleaning my bed with alcohol and a toothbrush (works awesome).

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Assuming they have made a change to the xAxis on the Mk3. I have had my Mk3 since last December 2017 and the mount does not quite fit like yours. It "fits" enough for it to work but looks odd, I think there is an extra angle on the newer piece that isn't there on mine.

Looks like your MK3 kit came with an older X-axis motor mount, just like mine. You'll need to use the MK2 bracket!

I just uploaded the 'Female' version of this bracket, which I should have done first as this is the one most are using.

That looks a lot like the MK2 mount I designed a bracket around today. I just uploaded the bracket earlier today, can you take a look at the attached pic and see if it looks like it will fit? If so - it is now part of the download and is labeled "xAxisBracket_MK2.STL." Please let me know if it works or needs any adjustments.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

What length of camera ribbon have you all been using for this? SO that there is enough to move around but not too much slack?

It really depends on where your Raspberry Pi is mounted.

Mine is currently attached directly to the Einsy Board of the MK3, inside the MK3's case. Once the rest of the parts finish printing I will be able to measure and find a decent length.

I have a Raspi 3B mounted above the control box so the length I use will definitely be different.

FWIW, I made https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2802522 for a MK2, and the x-axis mount worked just great. I started a remix (just pulling in their stl and yours) but quickly found you have a lot more spiffy edge beveling on your design. It just has a bit less material on the motor side of things, so doesn't hit the MK2 printed parts the way yours does.

Also, thanks again for your help on reddit troubleshooting my octoprint setup - you're the best!

Prusa i3 MK3 Camera Mount

Thanks Rob! I just added a new MK2 bracket to the files but am unable to test it. Do you mind testing it for me and confirming it works?

Well the MK2 is at a the office for my last job (e.g. I can't get in there anymore) but I can forward the STL to a friend who is there and see if he can take a shot at it.
You might be better off just pulling the MK2 parts from git: https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3/tree/MK2/Printed-Parts and checking yourself.

I am officially bestowing upon thee the title of GOP (God Of Prusa).
I've been looking fro a good X axis Pi mount and had given up. Was nearly done designing my own, then this one popped into my feed.
Most excellent design and print; simple, expandable, versatile.

  • I printed the black parts at 0.3mm layer height with 0.6 nozzle and the detail on the indexes was not as crisp as I would have liked, but that's on me, not the design. (Just adding the thought in case others try this combo).

  • Printing the knobs and camera face at 0.15mm layer height instead, so the threads are better.

  • Really appreciate the files with supports; Slic3r can be hit-or-miss with generating supports.

  • No more zip ties and duct tape holding Pi camera to enclosure! Today, I win!

Thanks again for the great work and looking forward to more neat stuff from you!


Erik, thank you for this extremely kind comment (made my day)! I am so glad you were able to use it! Also, thank you for your very generous donation to my beer fund; Never expected but always appreciated!

I forgot to mention in my other post: The camera cover seems to be pretty loose fitting on the camera back, but everything else fits very nicely (I love the way the ball mount snaps together).

I had to scale down the bolts to 99%, but otherwise very nice. I also made a mount for 2040 extrusion.

Awesome! Please post your make, I'd love to see it!

Edit: Last night I was thinking about reasons why you would have to scale down the bolt. The designed hole diameter on all parts is 6.6mm and the bolt diameter is 6.3mm. It should fit perfectly without scaling. Couple things you may look at that could be preventing the designed size from fitting. in Slic3er if your "First Layer Height" (2nd field under layers and perimeters) is to high, it will extrude too much material and flare out the table side of your parts and parts won't fit. Secondly, if your Nozzle is too close to your table, you will get the same issue. Just a couple things to check that will also help avoiding sizing issues on future prints.

1st layer height is not the issue. The entire bolt is too large a diameter. I am using Cura and will need to look at an expansion setting but for now I scaled down and was able to force them in.

Is a clearance of .3mm not enough for some printers? As I said the holes are 6.6mm in diameter and the bolt is 6.3mm in diameter. I'm not sure what I can do to fix that for you on my end. I've printed hundreds of the bolts on 2 different printers, and they always come out the exact size I designed them to be. Please let me know if there is anything I can do on my end to help. BTW your make looks great!

I think it is thermal expansion. The bolts I printed measure: 6.2mm and teh I.D. of the nuts is 5.2. An M6 bolt measures 5.88 BTW.
I'll try the horizontal expansion setting in Cura.
Odd that my 20mm calibration cube prints at 19.9-20.1mm

Did you measure the Holes in the links and make sure they are 6.6mm? Your 20mm calibration cube is outside dimensions. When making an inside turn (holes), you often get more material than outside turns which results in smaller holes. Check out this article: http://www.deltarap.org/printing-undersized-holes

My compliments on a very nice design, especially the snap fittings on the camera and ball fittings.

X Axis fitting: I believe the X axis you are fitting against for the the MK2 is different than the MK3. I'd be happy to remix the design to fit my MK2 and share ... a native file format would help.

Camera Cover: I've come to like the lens from another Camera Case: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2019291 Would be happy to remix your camera cover and share for those who are using a lens.

Great work, this was exactly what I was looking for.... Thanks.

Prusa MK2 Raspi Cam Case and Bed Mount
by Phredie

Thanks for the compliment and catching the issue with MK2! Here is a link to the IGES Files for both x-Stepper Brackets: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0s9e8g09d6emk6n/xAxisBrackets.zip?dl=0

In regards to the camera lens, I already have one made up that works with these lenses: http://a.co/d/fBy24vq - are they the same as what you have? I have a handful of parts I need to get pictures of then I'll be posting.

the link to that lens is dead. is it possible for you to post another lens option? great work by the way. I have it all printing right now!

This one looks identical with a different seller: http://a.co/d/gEYFICh (The one I purchased was TODI 9 IN 1)

I've retrieved the IGS files for the X Axis mounting bracket, I'll work on the remix for the MK2 and post.

I now prefer the lens set you have selected, and will be purchasing this. I'd appreciate you sharing your camera cover that holds the lenses when you have time.


Comments deleted.

Wonderful design!
Thank you for posting this.
Is the Monoprice Select Mini one of the mounts you have in mind that you plan to release?
If not, I may try and reverse-engineer this and try and make a mount for it (I use FreeCAD on Linux and haven't worked out how to edit STLs/meshes directly without making a mess of them yet).

Thanks! I hadn't thought of the Monoprice Select Mini, but agree it would be a great one to make it for. Do you have any thoughts on how we could add a mount to it? Also, if you decide to make one yourself, I could get you all the dimensions you could need to make the link connections. I can also send an IGES if that helps.

I was too excited to wait, I actually already took enough measurements and created a model (and printed it) before I saw your reply. :)
I did run into one problem: The nut sticks out too far on my horizontal mount (I made a vertical one too), so I had to use a real bolt.
Also, your nut and bolt are labeled M6, but are actually 1/4-20 thread. I was going to model and print a recessed nut, but FreeCAD only seems to have libraries for metric nuts and threads (I haven't taken the time to do it the hard way).

Monoprice Select Mini bed mount for Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount

Nice Job! Looks awesome! The way Solidworks adds threads, I can put M6 threads on a 10mm post if I want to; they are M6 threads. I am going to relabel the file as it seems to be confusing people.