MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


Ender-3 Control Box - MKS GEN-L - MOSFET - Buck Converter -Pi Zero W

by dRizZe99 Sep 21, 2018
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

hello, i printed box for my e3 end its fantastic thank you for great design, if it possible can u add stp or design file for who uses pro make maybe we remix for them

Is there any chance of you making a base for MKS Gen 1.4 of this case? I love it but mounting points won't align (MKS Gen L has 76 x 102mm, while MKS Gen 1.4 has 76x135mm).

I know that this would mean ditching MOSFET mount or something like that but it would still be a great for us having this board :).

Also if you don't have time to do this i would love to do it, so in that case can you please attach the source file so i can edit it properly (if i edit the STL it will be pretty crappy hehehe). Thanks man!

I'll try to get this done for you. If I can't get it done, I'll get you the source file.

Thanks a lot man!

Darn it just printed this and it's too wide for the ender 3 pro - should have checked the dimensions first I guess! The pro only has room for a box 104mm wide, any chance you could knock one up for us Pro users?

I can't just make it 104mm and roll with it. Every square inch of my box is used. It would have to be a complete re-design for the Ender Pro. I don't have one so its tough for me to get the correct measurements to make it work. My final design for this box took many re-designs before I got it to where its at now. I wish it was just as easy as reducing the size.

Ah, I understand - just wish I was able to do designs! The only one i found that prints the pro has the board mounted upside down with access from the bottom, would be nice to change that! I'll spend some time learning CAD I guess - what do you use?

I am teaching myself Fusion 360. Tons of teaching videos on YouTube and the software is free for a hobbyist. It very powerful software and you can do almost anything with it.

I am teaching myself Fusion 360. Tons of teaching videos on YouTube and the software is free for a hobbyist. It very powerful software and you can do almost anything with it.

Hello dRizZe99 and thanks for your design, very well done !

I've one question, why did you choose a 2xfan cover?
Would it be possible to have a 60x60x15mm version ?

Thanks for your reply.

I choose double 4010 fans because I wanted the air to be completely spread over all of the drivers and wanted to make sure sure air got to the MOSFET as well. I also wanted 2 fans because if one failed, there would at least be one fan cooling. TMC2208's are known to get very hot and wanted to make sure that 2 would need to fail instead of one. I also am not sure if a fan that is 15mm thick will fit above the heat sinks on the drivers.With the holidays around the corner and I am trying to wrap up another project, I can't make any promises on getting you are 60mm lid.

So i know you said not to complain, and that there were a lot of boxes that worked with pi model 3's, but I can't find any that allow for powering off the power supply and also don't take at least double the extra hardware that this case does. Seing as you asked politely, I won't complain, but could you perhaps point me to one of these boxes?

I have a standalone box being designed right now that can work with any printer that can fit the full Pi 3 B+ board in it. It's like a CR-10 style box. I still have to make a few edits to it before I can release it to the public.

Amazing! Can it fit the stock ender electronics as well as the pi??

Which Ender electronics are you referring to? Are you talking about the stock control board?

Yes! Or will I have to buy a different control board

Right now the standoffs are for the MKS GEN-L board but I think I can include standoffs for the stock board. I'll have to measure and see. I know the 2 boards are close in size.

I intend to upgrade to the gen l or something similar sometime (do you know if a ramps 1.4 has the same form factor?) But for now im low on funds and would like to stick with the stock ender board, if you're able to make that compatible it would be amazing!

I would definitely go with the GEN-L board if I were you. I love mine. I do not know if the Ramps 1.4 has the same form factor.

Looking into it more, the gen L does look pretty nice. whenever i upgrade, i'll probably go there. Thank you so much for your help, and I can't wait to see the new control box!

Are you longer supporting dual mosfet versions? I am using the original dual mosfet version and would really like a new top with a mount for a buck converter so I can run two 12 volt Noctua fans. No room in the case for the buck converter. With the mainboard and two mosfets it is already a very tight fit. I do not see any dual mosfet versions on your final versions of this case design.

What version do you want exactly? Mount on the right or left? Dual MOSFET with Bucks on the wall?

The one I printed has dual mosfets at the back of the case. I am sure other people would want this also as it was the hotend mosfet that originally went bad on my Ender-3 board. I would like to replace the top and use two Noctua 12v fans. I would like to be able to mount the buck converter to the top of the box to provide the proper voltage to the fans. I cannot run them on the 24v input.

The buck converters are now on the sidewall. There are standoffs for 2 converters. I can add standoffs for 2 MOSFETS in the back, but it's going to be tight with the wires.

I'm currently using Gen 1 box so I have nowhere on sidewallw for buck converter. I want to replace the top and have the top have a place for buck converter so I can use Noctua fans.

OK, now i understand what you want. I thought you were re-printing the box. You want me to make a lid that has buck converters on it instead of the Pi Zero W. This creation would be a "one off" just for you because when I re-make the right box, it will have the bucks on the side wall (just like the left box).

I have two projects that I am working on currently. Let me wrap them up and I'll make you a lid.

You were able to get time to do this yet?

I should have time today to do this. email me directly and I will send you STL file. I am not sure I will post it public

Thanks. Just need a place for one LM2596 to take the 24 volts to 12 volts for two Noctua fans. Will run the fans in parallel. Whenever you get a chance. I really appreciate it. Someday I will reprint the box because the delta printed it kind of ugly, but that is for another day in the far away future. :-D

You don't need a buck converter if your using 2 x 12v fans in the box.
mount the 12v fans and wire (fan1 -neg --> -neg board connection / fan1 +pos --> -neg fan2 / fan2 +pos --> +pos board connection)

I know about series connections not not so sure it's safe with fans. If one goes bad the other one will get 24 cold and fry.

If I print the new top will it fit on my old box or did the dimensions change? I printed the original two mosfet version and mounted it on the right side of the case.

It should but I'll verify it for you to make sure. It won't be for a couple hours though since it's 7am here now an I'm getting ready for work.

The lid should fit but the changes that were made: it has a "tab" in the back because the new box has a slot for it (removed screws). There are slight notch out in the front right because the box has an opening for the Y screws. The back side of the lid has a mounting spot for the Pi Zero W board. Go into "Thingview" to see the differences but the overall size of the lid is the same.

I am using the old design and got it to work after extending all the wires. I have it sitting on the right side. I would love to print the new version but moving the board and everything again is just too much work. Thanks for all the work you put into this case.

The new design looks great, however all wires for the control box come in from the rear through a cutout in the aluminum v-slot extrusion.
The new box does not have opening in the rear for the wires to enter. Perhaps remove the entire back wall of the box, and extend the bottom so that it goes under the v-slot extrusion with a screw hole to mount to the bottom just like the original? The aluminum extrusion would act as the rear wall and allow all the wiring to enter the box the same way as the original. Also extend the standoff's for the buck converters so the wires entering can be routed under converters, if left as is all the wiring entering box will need to lay across the top of the converters.

Hmmm.... I placed those slots above 40mm so they would be above the extrusion. Life would be so much easier if I could actually print this thing. I really don't want to remove the whole back for the great of a possible short.

Put a slot at the location of the buck converters at bottom, and extend the converter standoff's to the top of the slot so wires can be routed under the converters. This should fix up any issues. If you route the wires over the top of the 40mm extrusion and into the current slots, the wires could snag up on the bed level knobs when the Y axis moves. Maybe also add a small notch on side at Z endstop location so the Z endstop wires can enter the box. At the side corner location of mosfet you may need to add a slot to allow LCD ribbon cable entry, the current slots on side are to small for the 10p ribbon cable connector to pass through.

@ReefBum I think I captured everything you were saying in the above post

ReefBum there is a great Ender-3 DISCORD channel that I am part of and it makes it easy to understand things when you can post pictures.

Can you join the channel: https://discord.gg/YFytRmk

Since I am having issues printing, I can make changes and show you before posting the files. I'm AG dRizZe on there...

What size screws did you design for holding on the lid? I tried M2 but they just fall through and M3 seem too big.

The hole is 2.65mm and M3 should thread itself into the hole. I used a cap head M3 to test with. The holes are the same diameter as the holes for the control board and MOSFETs

I have completely re-designed the box to fit where the stock box goes and my print has failed 3x times now (6-7 hours into the print I get lift). I even used a raft like your suggestion. I can not get a print to stick to this "special" Creality glass.

Glue stick where the print will be and then a little bit of 99% alcohol to even it out so it's a thin film on the print bed. I have had 0 lift on any piece at 60 degrees bed temp. I also use a brim of 3mm or 8 lines. This is all with the stock Ender 3 bed surface.

On my print the lid holes are smaller the holes for the board and the mosfets. I guess my printer closed them up a bit due to me printing it a slant to fit the delta printer. I will drill them out a bit. Thanks.

I am in the process of printing this but I just discovered a potential problem. The case is 182.5mm in depth but the space inside the ender from the cross beam to the front where the case attaches is only 125mm. How can this be installed on the Ender-3? Are you going to design and extender piece from where it would attach on the Ender to the attachment point on your case? If not then I am wasting quite a bit of filament.

I just realized this after you made your post. I took a measurement from a wrong location. This current design will not work if you want to install it where the factory box is located. I need to redesign this box. I am sorry for this. Human error...

Can you just design a part that screws onto the extrusion and extends it out and then screws into the box. I do not mind it sticking out. Already printed it. Would like to still use if I can. The box length does not extend beyond the middle extrusion with the Y axis roller so not really a problem if an extender was designed to make it still attach.

Are you sure about that? When I looked at the current design, the box interferes with the two cap head screws on the Y axis. My original solution was to make a part that extends the box out like you said, but it looks like those screws will interfere....

I had already printed this box, I can confirm that it does hit the the cap head screws on Y axis.
Either need to add 2 holes in side of box to remount these 2 screws or put a notch in the side to avoid them.

The filler piece uploaded will require 2 x M5x60mm screws to mount it all up. Perhaps there may be a better way?

That's what I was afraid of... $!?&+@

adding holes to the side of the box should work...

It's too close to the edge. It looks like it needs to be a notch out

See my make. I decided to install it on the right side of the printer. I had to drills holes but dRizZe99 can possibly make a new version with the mounting holes in the correct position to mount it on the right side.

Comments deleted.

Correct me if I am wrong but the stock box has a length of 125.3mm and my box is 182.5mm so you need an extender that measures 57.2mm? I'll make one for you right now if that is correct.

Yes. I just measured again and your number appears correct.

Added the new STL file called "Frame_Tender.stl"

Thanks. After I print it I'll let you know if it all works. :-)

Please do. I'm going to try and work on my Ender today... I just need to find a way to occupy the wife LOL

M5 bolts do not fit in the holes in the spacer. I will try to drill them out but looks like not enough there to drill out with damaging the channels for the bolts. The threads in the end of the extrusion in the frame are M5 threads.

Update: I was able to drill out the holes to fit M5 bolts. Need to order some long enough to fit.

Thanks again for posting the make. Honestly I think I like where you installed it better than the stock location. I threw my printer back together to print out my modified version of the box and about 7 hours into the print I had catastrophic failure. The whole print shifted to the left and 2 inches and I got spaghetti everywhere. So frustrated this weekend with everything...

I really wish I had a 2nd printer like you... One day...

@dRizZe99 I used a raft to make sure it held in place since I was printing it vertically on a delta and with support the print time was so long. You might want to try a raft to try and keep everything in place. If you are going to change the position to the right you will need to change the holes to the opposite sides. I drilled new holes so I could mount it on the right side. It does fit nicely and looks pretty good there. I will most likley go with this configuration. Thanks again for the design.

I have to find some M5x60 to make this frame extender work. I was thinking of two flat plates where the regular screws could be used and just connected by a rigid piece in the middle.

this case is a little bit longer than the stock ender 3 case? do you use another adapter to attach the left 2 bolts to the ender 3 left bottom frame? or how do you handle this? can you post a picture of a printed and assembled case?

i already print a version of your case. it looks great, but I do not know how i can attach this case to the ender3 frame

I have the same issue.

I will try and get pics this weekend. Right now my Ender is in pieces LOL

thank you, I also got my new mks gen l 1.0 today. I expect a delivery with tmc2130 for tomorrow. Then i reassemble my ender3 this weekend too

@Hardy. Did you get your MKS GEN L installed and working yet in your Ender-3? All the vids are Youtube are in French. I am still waiting for my board and steppers to be delivered. All the parts are printed and waiting.

@Siam3D i had some issues. but now it works. my first printed case wont work and after this i'm unable to print another one (i only own the ender3, no other printer). I have now assembled everything without housing.

my mks gen L has some troubles.

i attempt a pid tuning. 10-20 times, but i was not possible to stabilize the hotend temperature.


after days of searching a solution (i change everything else). i found this sites. its a 24v issue, with 12v the mks gen l works perfect


And that is my temporary solution with which I got the temperature stabilized


its not perfect. with the old mainboard it was possible to hold the temperature accurate to +/- 0.1 ° C with my workaround the temperature accurate to +/- 0.4 - 0.5 ° C. so, its possible to print with this. i started with +/- 9°C last weekend

Did you see my make where I drilled two additional holes into the mount and put the control box on the right side of the printer? It is a good location and works but then you need longer stepper and endstop cables. You might want to consider doing this instead of printing a new case. I have an MKS GEN L in my FLSUN Delta printer and the temps are very stable. I never did a PID tune on the delta, just used the Marlin defaults in the firmware I flashed.

i saw your makes. but i have built a housing for my ender3. unfortunately I have no more space on the right side. It has to be everything under the printer.

I have already started to designing my own case. otherwise, my external mosfet has a different size than the case would have

@Hardy. Have you considered this case? It all fits under the Ender-3. I think it meets your requirements?

Ender-3 MKS Gen V1.0 + 2x Mosfet + DC-DC converter

Oh, this looks great. I did not know the case yet. I'll take a look. That's how I had imagined it

Good luck. When you finish your case will you post it to Thingiverse? The designer of this case made the two mosfet version for me and the mosfets I bought fit perfectly. All the holes lined up. So far they are the only thing installed in the case except for two 24 volt 4010 fans in the lid. :-D

Can you make a version that accomodates two mosfets and no buck converter? I have no need for buck converters but want to run dual external mosfets with an MKS GEN L on my Ender-3.

Yes, I can do that.

I would really appreciate it. My Ender-3 board died and just ordered everything needed to do an MKS GEN L conversion with TMC2208 and LV8719 stepper drviers. I want to use two mosfets (one for hotbed and one for the hotend). What did you use to house the display? Did you use an LCD 12864? Thank you.

I'm still setting mine up because I am building a whole new wire harness. I don't want to cut and solder wires. My set-up is the MKS GEN-L, TMC2208 (X,Y,Z), LV8729 (Extruder), and I got the TFT 3.5" touch display with WiFi module and filament sensor. I am going to design a display holder that replace the factory one. It will bolt to the frame exactly like the factory display. My problem is time!! Kids and wife are a pain in the you know what!! I will get you that redesigned case and upload it here.

That would be really great. Thanks again.

I updated the files to include the box that houses 2 MOSFETS.

Wow, so fast. Thank you very much.