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Greg191134

Bondtech BMG + E3D V6 print head for Creality CR-10(S)

by Greg191134 Sep 2, 2018
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he should talk to naomi wu and try to get at least attribution from them

I can't seem to find the answer....what sized screws to mount the BL Touch? Thanks!

Changed steps and everything but cant get any good prints for the life of me, any one have any recommendations?

I don't understand why all the mount systems on here don't just put the v6 in the bondtech, why print a groove for the bondtech to attach to then the opposite groove for the hotend to attach. While added more space between them which is the opposite of the point of direct drive.

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

I'm wondering the same thing! Anyone knows?

will this work for a cr10s pro?

i need the donded or the the direct drive V6?

Hi all, I noticed that the coupler in the E3D heatsink does not fit with this design. Is the idea just to let it sit in freely?

Has anyone tried to modify this so that is could be attached to a prusa style modification? Currently converting the aluminium extrusion to linear rods and would be interested to see if anyone has attempted this?

If you're using linear rods like the Prusa, just use the Prusa style x carriage?

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Oh no I accidentaly ordered a 20mm Stepper Motor not a 23mm :( Will it still work propably ? or will it get extrem hot an slipping :(

I´m using a 20mm Stepper without any issue =)

Comments deleted.

I don't get how to correctly print this head. First two tries, that flimsy part of body_rear.stl where the fan cable is supposed to tuck in, broke off. Now I have finally assembled the thing, mounted it and have redone all the cabling and installed a BLtouch to find out that the sensor mount sits way too high. Had to put in 8 washers on each screw as spacers to be able to probe the bed. And now the assembly just melted (I guess that is a problem with my firmware though...). Super frustrated, as I have to build everything back to be able to print a replacement.

Any tips? What am I doing wrong here, has someone else mounted a BLtouch sensor successfully with the included mount? And is there a version without the little cable channel that seems to be a terrible weak spot on the body_rear.stl?

printed with PETG at 230° C, using cura to prepare the gcode, 0.2mm layer height, 20% infill on a CR-10s...

EDIT: I don't understand what went wrong and why the head melted. The e3d V6 I have is a modified version supplied by filafarm in Germany. They claim that they are using genuine e3d parts. The thermistor is a 100K one, the heater cartridge is for 12V. It should be the same except for the nozzle which they supply coated for abrasive filaments. It's a 100€ product and not a cheap chinese knock-off.

How is this hotend supposed to not melt, when it's being held by PETG and can't cool actively like with the stock e3d fan that you have to remove to fit it in this print head? The noctua fan was running while test-printing, so I assumed it would be cooling it sufficiently. Could that have been the problem? I was gone from the room with the printer and left the hotend heated up for about 20 minutes... not sure if the noctua fan was running while I was gone, as there was no print running, but that is the only explanation I have, other than the thermistor failing/being misconfigured and the hot end getting way too hot because of that.

Did you change to e3d from stock hotend or did you use the e3d hotend from a previous print head? Can you run a PID for your hotend?

And a silent fan for cooling pc parts is not a good fan for a 3d printer hotend. The recommended noctua fan makes volume flow 9,4 m³/h but a sunon 40x20 EB40201S2-999 for example makes 13m³/h.

And are you shure the filament is really petg? The manufacturer can make mistakes too.

I don't understand why the E3D hotend doesn't just attach into the bottom of the extruder where Bondtech have designed it to go. This design has replicated the top of the hotend. What is the point of increasing the distance between the bottom of the extruder and the top of the heatsink? Is there some benefit I'm not picking up on?

Genuine question. I like this design but don't understand why it is how it is...

Because of clearance in respect to V slot wheels. It would be possible to design it differently but other issues would arise.

Hi, is it possible to use this direct drive version with touch-mi instead of bl-touch? Thanks

Hi, how are you? Does this design work for the bowden version of e3d v6 or the direct version of e3d v6?
Thank you!

I use a bowden setup on my Ender 3 and a DD-setup on my Ender 5

And instead of Bondtech BMG can be founded titan extruder?

Thanks for that great design :)) It fits really great on my Ender3 Pro.
printed it out without any issue on PLA and PETG.
With a good Fan in the front it it doesnt get to hot or melt even on PLA.
I use 40x40x20 Sunon 24V fan stepped down @ 15V.

Unfurtunately, I cant use it on my Ender 5, because of the belt fixation :((

Little assemble fun with the steps files
https://youtu.be/BQJ-uQtYaiE

Super cool!

Except for the very last part that is added to the stepper motor. Thats supposed to be installed between the Bondtech and the stepper.

Does anyone know the exact length of the PTFE tube between bmg and hotend/heatbreak?

Motor get ultra hot.. Is that an issue?

I have made the same experiences. I think about changing the pancake nema with a normal nema 17 and turn the bmg about 90° so the big nema has no problem to pass the profile of the z axis. Problem with a bigger nema, the weight advantage is lost.

Original Prusas have the same issue, it very specifically states that this is normal and the motors are rated for up to 100C. I think this is just a side effect of the amount of torque needed for any extrusion system, even on my Bowden setups I regularly add heatsinks because I don't like my motors getting hot.

Vref could be to high ... check it

Thanks for a great design!
Everything printed nicely but the EzABL mount doesn't seem to fit.
There's not room enough for where the inner hole goes.

Comments deleted.

Hi guys. I printed the layer fan coupler at 45 degrees prusa but I do not know how to install it. In the description of the project says that it is 100% compatible with this modification, but I can not find a way to mount it. can you help me thanks

So you probably printed out the parts for the MK3S. Those are not compatible. I made the same mistake. Instead you should print out the parts listed under MK3.

nozzle-fan-45deg (1x) https://raw.githubusercontent.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3/MK3/Printed-Parts/stl/nozzle-fan-45deg.stl
nozzle-fan-45deg-support (1x) https://raw.githubusercontent.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3/MK3/Printed-Parts/stl/nozzle-fan-45deg-support.stl

I printed your recommendation, but it is only held by the left side down and left side up on the fan support piece as a support. The lower right side of the ventilation nozzle is loose and rubs against the prints.

what fan are people using with 24v boards ?

I use 24V Sunon fans,they are quiet, not as quiet as the noctuas but greater airflow.

Has anyone printed it in PLA+? Any issues?

Even with PETG I've got warping in the cooling fan shroud...

the issue is wires pushing down on the shroud. I printed in ABS and made sure my heater wires were not pushing on t he shroud. No issues for about 3 weeks

I'll check mine, thanks for the info

Hello, I have installed your design and it is perfect.

I am just struggling with the firmware.

CAN SOMEONE POST OR TELL ME WHERE I CAN FIND A WORKING FIRMWARE FOR CR10S WITH THIS EXTRUDER AND BL TOUCH PLEASE?

I have been trying to print flexible filament, with partial success. It looks like the filament bends in the BMG to PTFE tube interface. For me it is difficult to maximize PTFE length and still be able to mount it. Any ideas?

The body has a conical shape where the PTFE tube exits. This allows to bend the end of the PTFE tube to install correctly the front part of the BMG Extruder body (with some kind of twisting movement) with the PTFE tube flush with the end of the tube housing in the BMG. If you have gap between the PTFE tube end and Bondtech housing you effectively won't print flexible filament correctly

what is the length one should go for, or what is the easiest to set the length?

Anyone having issues with the part cooling fan shroud warping during prints? I printed in PETG, but during long prints it starts to warp and the right side of shroud starts lowering.

I am with the same problem. I printed the layer fan coupler at 45 degrees prusa but I do not know how to install it. In the description of the project says that it is 100% compatible with this modification but I can not find the way to mount it.

The issue is wires pushing down on the shroud. I printed in ABS and made sure my heater wires were not pushing on t he shroud. No issues for about 3 weeks

Yes, same thing happened to me

What length PFTE do you recommend to connect the bmg and v6

Use with ENDER 5 can you ?

I could not open step file with Solidworks. Is it possible to add another format or better original source files?

Yes, I'm using a nema 17 22mm that I bought from Trianglelab.

is possibility to make ezabl mount for this?

If you look in the remixes someone has made one.

thanks i will.. all other pars fits ender 3 pro? i like better this orginal design then that remix. looks ugly with that radikal fan with 45 degrees

Love this design and would be great to get this with an EZABL mount with a microswiss AMHE cavity instead. I've been looking for something more lightweight to replace my direct drive PETSFANG setup. If you can add a microswiss and ezabl version that would be much appreciated.

Bondtech BMG is being packed and shipped out on monday, just ordered the last bits and bobs I need. Looking forward to tinker with this awesome design :)

is this version for the original e3d cold end or does it work with a clone too? could you provide an adjusted version if neccessary?
they vary in the diameter of the notch from manufacturer to manufacturer some times (my 3dfreunde clone has a .5 mm larger diameter)

keep up the good work

So this i a little too large for the 3dFreunde clone, but a few strips of copper tape did the job. if you could be so kind and shrink the diameter of the two top notches by 0.8mm that would be greatly appreciated.

does anyone have an idea how a dual extrusion could be implemented with this? i want to avoid two BMGs and two motors and so on on the x axis...

Wow... $260 for the Bondtech version...
$80 for the chinese version... http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000006762144.html

Neither of which i see credit given to original designer...

bondtech mentions it in the thanks to the community section.

That design is ever-so-slightly different, I've noticed a couple of sellers are doing that. Bondtech has credited the creator, but most of the others don't. They also seem to ignore the "Non-Commercial" license. Pisses the hell out of me that they so readily exploit open source designs for profit with barely a thought to the original creator.

Hopefully the creator gets credit

Hello there,
So I printed and currently trying to perfect my assembly of the Tank. My problem is that it starts prints perfectly but somewhere the filament get stuck near the entry to the HotEnd from the Bondtech and clogs itself. I’m not sure what the reason is but I have found the filament building up in the extruded even. I’m not sure if it’s over extrusion or if the HotEnd fan needs to be configured better for more airflow. Any suggestions? The only thing I think it is, is the HotEnd is too hot and heating the filament up to the extruder.

Maybe a few basic checks : does the hotend fan seems to turn normally and blows air in the right direction (towards the hotend)? You should easily feel the airflow with your hand near the hotend radiator. Do you have the PTFE tube in the hotend throat with the length adjsuted so the top end slightly touch the Bondtech?

Comments deleted.

Thank you soo much for sharing this! and the step file also :) you have made my day a lot easier.

Looks awesome, goin to order small motor right now!

I have remixed this design, you can find it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3574035

My remix is not perfect but it works with the E3D Volcano if you print the fan shroud and mount or regular V6 if you just print the original files from gregs design. It has an EzABL mount, and some reconfigured wiring routing, and holes are now sized for use with M3 brass inserts. there are more photos and assembly documentation.

Cr10s Direct Drive with Bondtech, E3D(Volcano), EzABL probe, Threaded Inserts and Prusa fan mount

Love your design, but is there someone who can make a MGN12 mount for it instead of the v-rollers ? I have tried using fusion360 but I'm not skilled enough to get the dimples out that are left for the wheels and join it with another type of mount.

Hello. Did you find a solution for the linear rails ? I will also change to linear so i must find a mount....

I printed the back - it looks like there is no room for the push fit on the top of the v6 hot end?

Hi! First of all congratulations its an outstanding design and thanks for sharing it, i was wondering what infiil you recomend

Thank you! This is a great mount. I was having major issues getting TPU to print with my Bowden tube setup, I was having three or four failed prints for every good one. The first try with this setup came our perfect! Great mod.

Great design and much appreciated! I'm converting my Geeetech A30 to use the E3DV6 and Bondtech BMG... I was wondering if you would be kind enough to share the solid model of the back piece? The mounting for the Geeetech is different than the CR10 and I'll need to make adjustments. I've been working on it in Fusion, but I'm not so great at repairing the mesh so my version looks horrible. I'd be very appreciative and would gladly send you the finished file to add to this make. Thanks!

+1
In very similar situation here. There is quite a bit of redesign that is required though as most of the back holes need to be moved. There is another option that is half way there, but not as fancy as this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3172522.

adaptor plate for A30 and direct bondtech left hand e3d v6
by apak

which multicolor filament have you used in these prints? It's awesome!

Super design, sobre, parfait !!!! merci Greg !

Would love too use this design, any chance of an EZabl mount?
Thanx

Will this also work with the E3D V6 Lite hotend? I don't see a space for the collar to fix the PTFE tube in the hotend.

Awesome part. Thanks a lot for sharing it with us!!!

Made this and works like a charm. Also like others mentioned, the thought gone into this is amazing!

I wanted to try it because when I had the Petsfang with the E3D I had heat creep issues, even running the Noctua 4020 at 13.2v. This solved that, and I can run the fan at 11v, still plenty cooling for the heatsink, never had better prints.

I still wanted to use a Bowden setup though, so I took a knife and some sandpaper to the E3D mount, so that it could fit with the Bowden coupler and coller clip.

Any support for a cable chain and IR probe sensor?
Thanks.

Hi, It seems great design and I printed it from ABS.
Can someone explain how the front and rear body are screwed together?
I dont see any holes for nuts on the back of the rear part. Do you screw the 2xM3x20 bolts in the plastic only?

That's right, you screw them directly in the rear part

Greg, this is one of the most well thought out designs I have seen for these creality machines. Im cutting my teeth on ABS with this print and its really a great piece. Ill be installing this on a heavily modified ender 3 (if you can even call it that at this point) nice work brother

Hey Greg, quick question I notice the BondTech is backward from normal feed. Do you need to set the filament drive to be negative in the Marlin software?

Hey Bill, you can config that in marlin, or reverse the direction by changing the wires of the motor, like i did. ( https://youtu.be/7rABznITELA?t=661 )
Dont forget to set the steps up to 415 steps / mm..
Good luck

Very balanced print head! Very good, the weight of the motor does not push the head downwards, because he is still pointing back, contrary to some other solutions, where he points to the left, or to the front. I achieve very good and fast ( 100mm/sec PLA ) print results with this head. (ABS, PLA, TPU) Have taken the TriangleLab extruder from AliExpress, it's exactly like the right-sided Bondtech made, but cheaper. Then, of course, the pancake nema- motor and as a fan a Sunon 40x40x20mm MB40201V2-A99 DC 12V 6200rpm, which has more power than the Noctua ...
Thank you for this excellent head!

Do you know if there is already a compatible duct for a volcano heat block? Either way I love this setup. Thanks for posting this.

I really love this setup, Great work! I really wish there was a Microswiss version or at least a way to attach a groove mount bowden connector to a microswiss hotend.

In my optinion Microswiss have the best quality for all-metal hotends. But the critical path there quality matters, is only the bore there filament and metal have contact.
So:
cloned coldend - no problem, there is the ptfe tube anyway.
cloned heater - no problem
cloned full-metal heatbreak - forget it
nozzle: if wear resistant needed, microswiss or ruby. Or change cheep brass nozzles often.

So the clowned parts you can use without any problems are less than 5$ from china (aliexpress/trianglelabs). The microswiss heatbreak is about 20$. The nozzle is your decission.

I perfectly understand your wish, if you already have a complete original microswiss hotend. But I thing most people usind ender 3 only have stock cloned microswiss-style hotend anyway, so changing to an all-metal v6 with microswiss heatbreak is an upgrade worth it.

Awesome design, any possible way the same moddle could be created but that the frame would fitt a linear rail MGN9H 9mm linear rail guide instead than the original backplate? :) Let me know if its possible

What do you use for retraction distance & speed for this setup?

0,7 mm of retraction at 40 mm/s should be a good start

Hello i love the simplicity of this hotend.

I need to know about the extruder and v6.
They sell them as direct drive and remote drive extruder. Which style should i get to make this kit?

Only difference is the grove to pneumatic adapter. The bondtech bmg (or clones) have a grove mount for the v6. "remote" simply means a grove to pneumatic adapter (like you can get from china for 2,10$) is added.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/trianglelab-Aluminum-alloy-Bowden-extruder-1-75MM-adapter-1-75MM-Connector-for-TItan-Extruder-BMG-Extruder/32959601701.html?spm=a2g0x.10010108.1000016.1.66657030raEAca&isOrigTitle=true

So no difference in the extruder, only one part more in the package if you order remote drive extruder.

The adapter is not needed here.

Thank you for the reply. I saw this when i was completely new and didn't understand it all. With your explication and a little experience behind me it makes more sense now. :)

Hello.
I really like the form factor. I've got a different hotend: AIO Evo from Hotends.fr.
The size is almost the same as e3Dv6, except it's not that large: 16x61,85. It's quite compact.
Do you think it will fit?

Really nice design and thanks for sharing! Would you upload editable files that I can open in SolidWorks as well? I would like to make some chamfers to some of the edges :)

I need source files too. I wanna add some m3 nuts and make hotend cooler 10mm

Any ideas on how to mount an ezbl or inductive probe?

Great design, i especially like the cables management. I’ve edited the extruder plate for right handed clone of the bmg but figured after printing it that you should be good with the original model as long as the cables are not in the way.

Did you guys used supports for the fan shroud ? seems to me that it's going to be hell to remove them from it

Supports "Touching Buildplate" and you should be good to go.

Thank you. I endd up using none for that part and it went fine.

can you use this with the stock hot end

Just had to post to compliment you on this design - very neat packaging for everything, and the attention to detail is unusual (things like the cable paths you've cut in). You've given me some excellent ideas to design something similar that is tailored to my Frankenstein i3 clone, but I may very well get lazy and simply print yours, it would certainly work just fine other than needing me to change the carriage mount holes and have the (big) motor facing out to the left side!

Hey Greg I have your file printing in ABS right now on the CR10 S and it's printing very well Thank You. I'll keep you posted as it goes.!! video of it started
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-OkLlp2k05oocCTA_Prh_NfFbYg6myqJ

well update on this is failure. the bottom warped and is unusable. Thought I had it down with painters tape and purple glue. No go.
I may try again but ABS is frustrating.

New update 10-28-18. I have discovered that while using the blue scotch 3m tape and the purple glue on top of the tape that my prints were still lifting but only during the cool down after the print finished. The shrinkage of the ABS caused the the blue tape to pull from the bed which allowed the plastic to move in the warping directions. So I applied the purple glue to the glass bed and then while hot I applied the blue 3m tape and also applied the purple glue to the top of the tape. This not only held the tape to the bed but also the print to the tape while in the cool down process.

Have you tried PETG less warping with it

It is a fantastic design. What modification must be made to mount a right bondtech? Thank you

Thanks I was wondering about that. Should be a simple modification.

With a left hand Bondtech, the bracket that secures the wires on the spacer between the motor and the Bondtech is just above where the wires from the hotend arrive. With a right hand Bondtech it will be offset to the left. I don't know if it's really an issue but if it is it can be fixed by modifying the STL in TinkerCAD to extend the bracket and move the part that hold the wires a bit on the right.

Hello, Could you tell me how many steps you have set up the bondtech? I get 477 steps, but I'm having the odd problem in printing. Thank you!

I believe that Bondech suggests 415 esteps on their website

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

I've got 413 by measuring manually so I guess 415 is correc.t

Great design, could you please share the BMG model so i can use it as a template to modify your model for right hand BMG or may be someone reading this already made the modification ?

Any mount for EZABL? thanks!

Nice design and I will make it for my cr10s. I already have a Bondtech extruder but it is right hand. Can you explain what the spacer modification is to make it work for a left hand, please?
Thanks

Sorry Terrace, did not see your comment. See my reply to Daniv on the same topic. It may just work as is but not sure.

Awesome! saw this creation on your twitter a while back, didnt realize you had released it untill just now! :)
Is it possible to use the stock extrudermotor? or isnt there enough clearence?

You really need a 25mm pancake one. The stock motor will interfere with the side and top extrusion

Pancake it is then, thank you!

I just uploaded slightly modified parts. Make sure this is the ones you print.

Ditto to redpiyaya, Would need to modify fan piece to accomodate extra length of volcano

Can you make a Volcano with BLTouch?

There is no modification needed for that. Just use original Prusa files nozzle-fan-45deg-support.stl and nozzle-fan-45deg.stl. Drill the support to dia 4 mm where it attach to the body. You're good.

Greg,

What about this air intake?
https://i.imgur.com/cSVJRFl.png

This could help with possible heatcreep and it seems there's enough room for it ;)

Fan for radiator is 4020, higher static pressure and so higher flowrate than the typical 4010. No obstacle on airflow path beside the radiator fins. You won't have any heatcreep issues. The picture seems to show a design that use a ventury effect. 1.the air speed at the outlet of the fan is insufficient for a ventury to be efficient, 2. static pressure is what you are after to overcome the pressure drop of the fins

The pic shows the extruder cover on the newest R3 prusa pieces revision that includes the 45º frontal fan mod as well... The surface on the prusa was way smaller and they still introduced this opening, that's why I was worried... So if I want to install a 4010 instead, it will stay 10mm farer from the fins and that's all?

Neat haha! thanks! :)

This design looks superb! What's the blue thing popping out of the bondtech?

The blue thing is a piece of capricorn tubing. You can use a regular PTFE tube here, no need for capricorn

Ah ok so you either feed it from above using the capricorn or from the side by inserting the white PFTE instead?

Yes, that's right, you have the 2 options

First, great design. Can you thicken the bottom walls on the body front and rear parts? They are too thin and snapped off when I was removing them from the heat bed.

Thanks,

Curtis

I agree that this part is very thin but it is on purpose. This part is right above the heater block. Making it thin allow the air flowing through the radiator to cool it.

This design looks beautiful. Please tell me your making one for the stock extruder with the V6 hotend. It's small, sleek and looks like it would work very well.

Hi Greg191134,
Thanks for posting this design.
I've fully printed the design for CR 10s.
But is not complete in terms of how to mount the motor on top of the hot end.
Thanks
T.

I'm not sure to get your question right. The motor is bolted to the BMG extruder (with the spacer that also holds the wires) , the extruder is attached to the head body with the groove mount. This is very stiff and nothing more is needed.

Hi, would i be able to use this with a titan extruder?

The Titan extruder has a groove mount (same as the Bondtech) so you can use it. If you want to also use the bracket that hold the wires, you will probably need to redesign it.

Hes probably already printed it but the spacer needed to be extended by 3.5mm on the right side to accommodate the Titan. I remixed it here - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3201192

Hmm, that link goes to a 404?

Had the same problem

Hi, really like the design! Looks like its really made for this to be a unit. Fits the overal design well!
So its look like you have some free space on the right side for a BLTouch Sensor, maybe? ;-)

Thanks. I do not own a BLTouch yet and so cannot test but agree that it could probably fit on the right side

Greg, Great work although I haven't printed it yet. I am delayed due to the fact there is no mount for a capacitive sensor. I admit I am too lazy to venture off from Fusion 360 and into tinkercad. You said that you never made a mount for this sensor because you don't have one. Well, that could all change VERY quickly, if you know what I mean....

Can I send you a sensor (to keep) for your printer in return for a modified version with a capacitive side mount?