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Prodl3D

Control Box Ender 3

by Prodl3D Aug 28, 2018
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Hi,

I really like your design and thinking to make it too!

I understand that most people don't like to share their fusion 360 files so I was wondering if you could please add an additional vslot bar so that there would be two of them on the right hand side where it connects to the printer 2020 bar and could they be vslots both of them so that it could be slided in by removing the front or rear cover. I am worried one won't be able to hold the electronics box because my printer is a bit raised with the feet I found here on Thingiverse - about an inch high so the whole box would rely on those vslot inserts.

Many thanks in advance.

I've been looking at this and I am confused at one part. The diagram shows two 24V power ins. I understand one being fed by the Ender 3 power supply. What about the other? Are you splitting the PSU to two XT60s with something like this https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Female-Males-Parallel-Connection/dp/B00NQX2DB2/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=XT60+y&qid=1556920930&s=gateway&sr=8-10

Thanks

Hey jakinoh, is it possible to receive the complete files for fusion 360?

Comments deleted.

Can you adapt your box to make it fit to the rear of the printer in the right side?

It fits the right side just fine when you orient the USB ports of the Pi to the rear of the printer. The XT60's are toward the front, but the whole thing works a treat otherwise! I't a great addition!

I mean rear right but in the inside of the print... Not in the outside...

Just an FYI, your 30a Relay is non standard and unavailable in the US. maybe an alt design that can use the available relay boards?

Another question.
I am having quite a lot of trouble printing the cover. The problem is mainly the grill / pattern for the fans. No matter how I adjust my layer-hight, the printer prints that pattern so fast and with so many jerks that it is pulling the filament of the print-surface. It is really bad.
I use Cura for slicing - is there anyone that could share their Cura settings that they have used to print this with success?

change speed to 40
change jerk to 10 or 5
change travel speed to 40

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

In case you have not printed this yet, I set my jerk settings to 20 and lay down my first layer at 18mm/s which is really slow. I find that having patience in that first layer means I can print at much higher main speeds.

I was wondering what you plan to do with the dupont cables? In the drawing there is a green connector - but its not in the list of parts. Can you put a link to where you can purchase that?

Maybe you should put the wiring diagram in the description as well - its pretty hard to find.

bonjour,donc d’après ce que je comprends l'alimentation 220v est toujours allumée?

c'est un peu dangeureux.

modifier votre boite pour pouvoir faire une alimentation directe sur le 220v sur le raspberry et mettez un sonoff sur le cable 220v de la ender.

et rajouter un bouton manuel pour commander les leds en plus de la commande a distance.

Hi,
Thanks for this, it is a brilliant idea.
I have just completed it and found a couple of things to be aware of.
Firstly, I bought everything from Aliexpress, so the sizes were a little off and I need to sand the XT60's and Wago's to fit.
The dual relay board was not of the correct size, and I ended up using glue to hold things in place.
If you look at the wiring diagram, the 24v input to the 5v LM2596 is covered by a black wire and not obvious as to where it goes.
I also needed to put a link negative between the 2 negative Wagos.
On the Octoprint, I looked at a couple of different addons to run the lights and power switching.
The best one for this is the Enclosure Control plugin.
You can set this up to switch the lights on and off as well as the power supply to the printer.
There are also features to allow input signals from sensors to run the fans, although I have not done this part yet.

Yes I had seen this plugin, personally I go directly via wiringpi for the configuration of the GPIOs, because I control the power and light via amazon dash buttons. But I'm thinking of improving my box and system to control the DHT22/11

Last night, while looking to install this mod, I found out that there is no way to plug a power cord in to the Raspberry Pi There is not enough room between the box side and the Pi. I can probably rig a USB connector with bare wiring and heat shrink. Time to go research powering the Pi alternatively.

Hi Altheat0ldme,
The PI is powered from the 5v output of the LM2596 to pins 2 & 6 on the PI.
Although it is not recommended you do this as there is no protection on the PI, it works absolutely fine for me.

I love this control box and the Enclosure plugin.
I have fitted a push button on the enclosure and can now turn the lights on and off from the PI or the button.
My next step is to add the temperature sensor to display the temp within the enclosure.

I did a little reading last night and found the answer close to what you gave me. I did not want to bypass the poly fuses by powering off the GPIO pins, so I just made my own power jack and soldered it straight to the back of the incoming USB power connection. It's just positive and neg. There are only two solder pads on the rear of the board behind the USB. This works a treat! Thank you for the reply, kind folk!

I you intend to build this case (which is of excellent design,) you should be aware that it will not slide nicely on the left side of the Ender 3 without first trimming the Z end-stop bracket as it extends down the rail and interferes with the box. Perhaps locating the box on the right side may be more appealing. I will try this.

Hello,

My box is on the left side, I didn't have any problems to place the box there, do you have a picture so that I can understand and modify the design if necessary.

Well, I have since installed a BL Touch and have been able to remove my old z end stop so it's not in the way. I don't think you need to edit anything, really, I just think my situation was cause by myself when I made adjustments to z stop when I first purchased my printer. Your design ii excellent so far! I enjoy mounting the box on the right side of the printer! I have yet to completely fill out all of the components, but I look forward to the fun in making these modifications! Thanks again!

Can someone please help, I have an Ender 3 and an Ender 3 pro and both refuse to print the box at the right size. I made the changes to make the print area 235x235mm in Cura and OctoPrint already had that but when I go to print it makes the box 200mm or 210mm so it cuts off the end of the box regardless of the orientation of printer used. None of this is visible in cura only once it starts printing. See attached images, the last one is of the difference in size of the prints from the E3 to E3 Pro with the pro being the black print that is smaller but both are way off the actual length.

Hello,

the surface of ender 3 is 235x235, I printed my own box on my ender 3. Maybe it is necessary to check the parameters in Cura to have a 235x235 bed, be careful not to have rafts or skirts

Hi Frankyxl,
I too had the same problem. Cura and Octoprint were set to a bed of 220 x 220 and after adjusting this to 235 x 235 it still would not fit the bed. The issue was in the printer's firmware. I have already flashed my Ender with TH3D firmware which has a default bed size of 220 x 220. After adjusting this I can now go to 235 x 235.
I hope this helps.

Are you printing a brim or skirt?

Je ne contrôle pas l'alimentation du 220v mais l'alimentation du 24v depuis l'alimentation generale.

Je n'arrive pas a comprendre où vous branchez la prise 220v pour contrôler le on/ off de l'alimentation de la ender ?

Bonjour,je suis très intéressé par ton système .mais je n'arrive pas a comprendre où tu branche la prise 220v pour contrôler le on/off de l'alimentation ?

Je suis novice ,pourrais tu m'expliquer plus en détail l'installation ?

Merci ,tu veux mon adresse mail?

The link to the Wago blocks is for the 3 way version, should be 221-415 for 5 way? Love the design!

This is very nice Thank You :)

Just printed your third version just to notice that since version one - which I have still printed here - you had the wrong measuring for the 2 relay module holes. I am measuring 33mm and your print has 31mm. I have two different brands of the 2 relay modules laying around here and both of them don't fit the holes.

Edit: The datasheed even says it's 35mm on the module.
https://puu.sh/BV5tl/6ab2d3dc8c.png

I modify the 3D file on Monday to match the 35mm center distance. Thank you very much for your feedback

I have just measured the hole distance again and it's 33mm, not sure why the datasheet says it's 35mm.

Also may I ask why you chose to make 3,5mm holes when the RasPi and the other modules are designed to be used with 2,5mm screws? I had to drill them to 4mm to place some brass inserts into them to be able to use 3mm screws, which are also too big for the RasPi but I used a drill to make the holes on the RasPi bigger.

I don't have any problems for the assembly of my relay modules, I had found a 3D of this component on GrabCad, and it works well with the one purchased on amazon. Link in the description
https://grabcad.com/library/2-channel-5v-arduino-relay-board-1

No need to drill the components, just screw the elements into the plastic with the screws, I do not use brass inserts for fixing.

Screw link: https://amzn.to/2OnOgom
they are in the description

I’m loading this in cura and it is larger than the 220 bed size (just) did you scale it down to fit the Ender 3? This is my first print that didn’t fit the bed, I can scale it back to 95% and I’m good. Is this normal? I can increase the bed size up to the extreme width but I haven’t check the extruder travel yet to see if it can reach that distance. Thanks in advance, great idea and I love to tinker so this will be fun.

I print with simplify3D but I did a test with cura, I have no problem, the size of the control box is 220mm. Maybe look at the configuration of the tray in the cura parameters

Can you please share the wiring diagram. It’s hard to follow small. Thanks

Can you share links to the relay modules you used in this design?

Just printed it to notice that you forgot something:

"Addition of a guide on the side to be fixed in the Bosch profile"

Inside of that extrusion are two screws, making it impossible to mount the box to the frame. I will have to manually cut out the box at that position now to be able to mount it. I would suggest instead of adding a large guide like you did using only two small ones at the left and right side of the box so you are able to place it wherever you like. And maybe even add a version that doesn't have any holes for screws and no guide at all for people who want to place it independently, but that's another topic.

Comments deleted.

Thanks for the update!

Hy! Very great Idea.
Just one question: How do you want to turn your printer on/off through your raspberry, is this feature implemented in octoprint?
Thanks!

Hi,
I do not directly control the printer's power supply via the raspPi but from an electric relay. A GPIO port on the rasPi board switches the relay that controls the power supply to the motherboard on or off.

Hi,
the mechanical/electical part is clear to me, but how does this work software-based? Do you have to switch the relay through the command line or is there a button or similar directly in octoprint?

Hi,

I will do a tutorial once the complete project is finished, but it is before an existing set of functions.
See the link below
https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/wiki/Controlling-a-relay-board-from-your-RPi

Perfect, thanks for your reply, this was exactly my question!
Looking forward to your complete guide, nice work so far!

Yes, this is a box for raspberry B & B+ ( 2 and 3)

does this fit raspberry pi 3 b+

Comments deleted.

I've printed that box without any modifications. It's a great Make...

BUT: Do NOT use that relay to control printer power. That relays only support max 10A, the Ender 3 consumes up to 15 A. I had one of that 2 relay boards laying around and made the test with it (under observation and in a safe area). After a 7 hour print the relay contacts where melted together!

Very interesting! Can you give me more information about your configuration during your test? Bed temperature? Nozzle temperature? Cooling of modules?

I found this on Aliexpress! I think it would be interesting to test this relay
Very interesting! Can you give me more information about your configuration during your test? Bed temperature? Nozzle temperature? Cooling of modules?

I found this on Aliexpress! I think it would be interesting to test this relay

2-Channel-20A-Relay-Control-Module-high-low-level-Controller-for-Arduino-UNO-MEGA2560-R3-Raspberry

Very interesting! Can you give me more information about your configuration during your test? Bed temperature? Nozzle temperature? Cooling of modules?

I found this on Aliexpress! I think it would be interesting to test this relay

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/2-Channel-20A-Relay-Control-Module-high-low-level-Controller-for-Arduino-UNO-MEGA2560-R3-Raspberry/32817341321.html

Using two additional external mosfets for both the heat bed and the extruder would be the way to go in my opinion. This way you can continue using the dual relay like you have there and also use a safer way heat everything up, since redirecting the current over the cheap boards like the Ender 3 has wasn't such a good idea in the past anyway. I'm going to use this version for now and I'm looking forward for a version with XT connectors.

Hellzing, you're right... 50%... If you use external mosfets you can continue using the 2 relay pcb. BUT: what, if one (or both) of the mosfets has a failure and heat and heat and heat, even if the printer is off? In your configuration the external mosfets are absolutely "uncontroled" by the printers pcb or the OctoPi. Even if the printer is off (by control box), the mosfets are supplied with power.

I think the best way would be to implement an own power supply to the control box an then switch off the entire power supply of the printer when working with external mosfets.For that, the control box is too small.

ATTENTION: DON'T HANDLE WITH 230/110V IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!!

This is just the way those external mosfets are designed. They take the power from the psu and direct it to the parts that need them. But you got me thinking there, never thought about it that way that the parts you add to your printer to make it more secure in terms of fire protection could actually make it catch fire aswell.

What about this solution (right bottom part of the picture):

i try to get your solution to work but i have no luck to add the gpio to octoprint.
did you have a instruction how to?
regards

Your relay from Ali is not usable. It has 20A, that's ok. But max. dc-voltage of 14V.

During my test I printed a few more "upgrades" for the Ender in one session.
Bed: 60°C
Nozzle: 200°C (PLA)
Cooling: two 12V fans mounted in your box

Meanwhile I have modified the wiring/function of the two relays in the box. One switches the led tripes, the second will switch the fans (waiting for the temperature sensor for the RasPi).

To switch the power supply I've "outsourced" a 30VDC/30A relay to a separate small box (see attached photo).
Relay: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B015KOA0RI
Box: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1333774

thunnings asks for a wiring diagram. I've made a quick&dirty version ;-)

UPDATE 01.10.2018: there was a wiring error in the diagram. Please use the NEW one.

The Ultimate box maker enhanced
by rolfz

Hello!
Thank you very much for the information, I think it is a good deal to replace module 10a by yours in 30a. I will order it to design the 3D model and add it to the box

Are you planning to replace the 2 relay module with the 30A module or expand the box so that it covers both? I ask because when replacing it, there would be no relay for lightning, etc.

And two more ideas/improvements:

  • the hole for the mounting screw to the printer placed below the RasPi is at the same y-position than the mount point for the RasPi. So it is a bit dificult to fix the screw in the 4040 profile of the printer.

  • I've added two small push buttons on the rear side of the box to localy control printer power and led lights. At the moment I fixed them provisional with hot glue.

My version of your box is placed at the right side of the Ender behind the display (with RasPi ports to the rear). The GPIO's are controled by the octoprint enclosure plugin.

Looking forward to it, great design so far!

it is currently a WIP version. This one is functional but there are still some improvements after the first assembly.

For example, it is missing:

  • a Wago connector for the neutral, a single wago X5 connector is not enough.
  • there is also a lack of space in width to make it a little more comfortable to install.
  • Replace the clips for LM2596s with a screwed assembled system
  • I will also provide space at the back of the box to install XT60 connectors (two 24v inputs, one input for powering the motherboard, and the other for lighting, raspberry, and fans) (Two outputs, one in 24v, and the other in 12V for lighting) so that the "plug and play" set

Yes, I can make an electrical diagram to facilitate assembly.
I use two systems to turn on or off my printer and lighting. The first solution is done via an amazon dash button that sends a command "closes or opens the GPIO port of the raspberry that controls the electrical relay", I control these buttons via a program that I wrote in NodeJS
My second solution is done via the Printoid application, when I want to start printing, for example, or control my printing remotely (my printer was in a garage, turning on the remote lighting is very useful)

I think I'll update the 3D in week 40.

Awesome. Looking forward to it.

Do you happen to have a wiring diagram for how you plan on wiring this up? I was curious about how you'd be turning on/off the printer when it looks like you're using the 24V from the printer's power supply to power the RasPi. I'm sure it's something obvious that I'm missing. Thanks!

Man, using those wago connectors as terminals is briliant idea.