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Ender 3 calibration files

by TeachingTech Aug 28, 2018
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Tried the Heat tower (no abl) and it went straight through my binder clips on my glass bed and started printing on the very very edge.

Does not work. Had to push the hot end out of the way so it wouldn't get absolutely destroyed by the steel clips.

the retraction test printing sent straight through my clips that holds my glass making a big mess on the bed and unleveled it. is the whole gcode rotated wrong? priming should be om y axis and printing on x?

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This work on an Ender 5?

The retraction test has an error in it. The retractions don't start until the 10mm mark on the towers, not at 5mm as stated in the video.

Printed the temperature test with some Overture PLA. At 240c (I should've known better..) it stuck to the bed so hard that removing it caused my magnetic bed on my new ender 3 pro to stretch & permanently deform.

Just tested the Speed Test turns out it's just the speed of the fan not the print speed. File needs an update.

Would be cool to have a version of the files with the proper gcode for those with manual mesh leveled beds.
M420 S1

Can these gcodes be used for other filament testing for example PETG and TPU?

I don't use Octoprint, or any remote control for that matter for my CR-10s, if I used the manual advance on my control box to move 100 mm, would that work?

Edit: Nevermind.

Having the original STL of the retraction gcode would be nice. I'll have to find one that's not pre-sliced or create one so I can test other variables along w/ linear advance.

Check under the "Remixed From" files. It's there.

Well, the speed test just destroyed my PEI bed.

The brim doesn't respect the Z offset of the printer, and started printing it in the air. So I quickly dialed it down to where I was getting a good 1st layer. The problem is, the part itself DOES respect the Z offset, so it jammed the nozzle into my bed and neatly engraved the outline of the part into the PEI right in the middle of my bed.

This is the last time I'm running gcode generated by someone else.

That depends on how deep the scratch is. If it went to the bed, sure, it's destroyed. If it made something like a light colored, shallow gouge, the PEI is repairable and still serviceable. I've repaired my PEI sheet twice this way, and I've had mine for over a year.

You just need a few simple things to fix it. Water, IPA, 400 grit, 600 grit, 800 grit, and 1000 grit sandpaper. If you have a wash basin, tub, or a place outdoors, then simply wet sand the scratch starting with the 400 grit on up. Just remember to use small circular strokes when sanding, and keep the surface clean with the water. Just don't get carried away, or you can end up making a micro-sized dip that can screw with your first layer adhesion.

Also, before you do a print on a freshly repaired PEI sheet, wash it one more time with IPA.

This may not help you now, but I hope it'll help a reader who stumbles on this. :)

Hi, I am newbie to 3D print and I bought Ender3 just four days ago. I have passed the stringing test (around 40 fails) but once I had the right setup it amazing. Im sort of hacker type of person so I want to push the limits of this printer. So I have made my own Extreme Stringing Test.

Can anybody please print this and send me photos of your results?

Lets take it to a new level
Here you can download my test file. I will upload the settings soon. Just found another tweak ;)


Send your results to extreme3dprint@gmail.com

Stringing Benchmark Extreme Challenge

I have a all metal hotbreak. I should not retract more than 2-3mm. I tried to see the gcode but I couldn't find the annotations on which leval retractions change and for how much. Is it 0, 1,2,3 or are there increments in between?
Ty for the files.

Retraction test crashed into my left binder clip as has been reported here in the past. Why such a bad design and not down the left Y axis as normal? Luckily doesn't appear to be any damage the binder clip popped off

voorsk has fixed it in his comment

Well, the heat test delaminated my stock ender3 build plate. I now have a 1cm square hole right in the middle of it.
Be warned!
maybe you could adjust the gcode so the heat increases with height instead of decrease?

That shouldn't have happened. Unless your nozzle was too close. I printed 250degrees in the ender 3 pro standard bed with no problem.

Tried your profile as is and got this -.-

There's one important variable everyone should take in the account - the filament.

You could elaborate a bit. That said, I measure my filament, and this currently is hatchbox which on this roll is consistent between 1.74 and 1.75 where ive measured. As such, the profile is set to 1.75 filament diameter (I did review settings prior to the print, I'm not an out-of-the-box noob) which would mean that the filament is not the issue.

Actually diameter is standardized but there are many filament physical properties which are not, such melting point, density, thermal expansion, viscosity, etc. So perfect settings for one filament not necessarily will give the same results with another one (type, producer, color or even batch).

That's the elaboration I was seeking. Thank you. All of that is true and is mostly compensated for by temperature changes on the nozzle, whereas filament dimension in the slicer paired with extrusion width and multiplier make the much larger differences. I have not had a single filament roll yet that 4mm retraction actually worked for me though- not at 90mm speeds like he has set here anyway. I am not home currently but I think upping retraction and slowing movement a bit may solve the issue in my picture. Guess I'll find out

Yep, slowing retraction is a good idea. For PLA (HD-PLA Fiberlogy @225C) 6mm retraction and 25mm/s speed works great.

Any chance you can share your profile info? Im using cura and cant get prints that look even close to this good. Even just your first layer settings. That would help me a lot. Thanks.

I dunno what Simplify3D is doing that Cura 3.6 isn't for me, but these models come out perfectly and I have issues with stringing and underextrusion with the models I print from Cura. I REALLY don't wanna pay for Simplify3D, but if the prints come out THAT much better...

Why on earth do you have the wipe going across the front of the build plate where most people have their binder clips? This code scratched my glass because it ran into my binder clips! I just bought this build plate. Thanks a lot.

Thank you guys for the warnings, you saved many plates!

same here, but luckily the clip just fell off. I almost had a stroke lol

Same exact thing here lol was pissed

How can i know wich setting is the one that works ok, i think is between 4 a 5 mm but, speed? temp?

Warning to all those using glass beds. All of the gcode files have a priming strip down at the bottom, instead of on the left hand side where it should be. As a result, the nozzle will almost certainly crash into any binder clips you're using to attach the glass bed, possibly ruining it (as it did mine when I tried it). There's a corrected set of codes by voorsk down below that puts the priming strip in the correct area on the left side; it's a bit lower than the standard Cura priming strip, but if you shift your lower left binding clip a bit to the right, you should be safe. This was first noted in the comments last September, but TeachingTech apparently can't be bothered to fix the problem.

Yeah, it crashed into my clip

Weird issue, but I couldn't get the temperature tower to print using OctoPi until I shortened the name. Strange, but thought it might help other noobs like me... lol

My experience, going from good to bad:

  • The speed test model (sliced by me, not the included gcode) is useful and allowed me to bump up the speed by 50 %. Nice.
  • The retraction test file is confusing (retraction starts at 10 mm), but allowed me to reduce retraction from 5 to 2 or 3 mm. Also nice. Ignoring the confusion. I could have read the comments.
  • The included speed test gcode breaks stuff if you have a glass print bed held on with clips. OK, I could have read the comments. But still.
  • DO NOT follow the instructions for flow rate adjustments.

Observations for the last item:
The single shell cube came out 0.5 mm thick at 0.4 mm line width. So I reduced the flow factor to 80 %. Result: Adjacent lines did not adhere to each other anymore. Models basically fell apart into separate shells only held together at the corners. Also the rest of the model looked a bit underextruded, too.
Simple explanation: Extrusion is calculated for a rectangular line shape of line width x layer height. However, an actual extruded line is not rectangular, instead it bulges at the sides in a somewhat round shape. That's why it's slightly wider than the nominal line width. But you need that extra width to basically squash two adjacent lines into each other, making them adhere to each other. If you decrease flow far enough that a single line is exactly the nominal line width, two adjacent lines will barely touch (or not at all) and won't properly fuse.

Open question: How do we check and measure extrusion beyond the results from measuring filament length.

That would explain some of the behavior I've seen in my prints after running the hollow cube. I've noticed gaps between perimeters occasionally. The prints seem solid though. My concern is dimensional accuracy if I bump the flow back up from 92 to 100%. My E steps were calibrated w/ the bowden removed from the hot end so 100mm = 100mm +/- a fraction.

I calibrated my e-steps with the hot-end in place and heated to my default printing temperature, so I have "actual" extrusion correctly calibrated (at least I hope so). I've also verified it a couple of times by calculating total extrusion distance from the g-code and comparing to measurements. Always came out better than 1 %.
Maybe you want to check that, too.

And I also did some caliper measurements on a couple of test models I have lying around and, well, dimensional accuracy is off in all kinds of directions (too large, too small...), but never worse than 0.3 mm, as far as I can see. Mostly around 0.1 mm or better. Somewhat, but not fully compatible to the described effect. But I think there are other effects affecting dimensional accuracy more than "non rectangular lines".

Back to theory, in my case (line 0.5 instead of 0.4 mm), all models should be too large by 0.05 mm in all directions. That is, outside dimensions should be to large by 0.1 mm in total and holes too small by 0.1 mm, too.
In your case, if you're also running 0.4 mm lines, the effect on total dimensions should be less than 0.035 mm.
For me, proper perimeter adhesion seems more important than 0.1 mm accuracy loss, with other effects apparently affecting accuracy even more.

Also, there is a parameter called "Horizontal Expansion" in Cura which might help to compensate this. Though I haven't tried yet. I guess there are similar parameters in other slicers, too.

Oh, and one more thing: Printing a "solid cube sliced single shell no infill" cube isn't really a good test, because in this case the slicer thinks that the inside of the cube (i.e. inside of the model) isn't important. Would be interesting to see what happens if we'd use an actual hollow cube model with the desired wall thickness. I think I'll try that in a couple of days. Maybe I'll also try the horizontal expansion.

I did that when I first got the printer & adjusted the firmware e-steps. Then a respected contributor on FB suggested that setting e-steps in free air would be better and then calibrate each filament roll in the slicer settings. So many variables, so little time to tinker. :)

Well then, final report on "hollow cube" and "horizontal expansion":

  • A real hollow cube prints exactly the same as a solid cube with a single shell and no infill. So Cura doesn't seem to care about that.
  • Horizontal expansion helps, particularly on the first layer to finally solve the conflict between "no elephant foot" and "fully closed first layer".

Just printed the heat test and it came out almost perfect. Not too sure what exactly I'm looking for but everything looks really good. I was curious if you would had a cura profile that gave prints this good? This print has I think the best quality I've ever gotten out of my printer haha. Thanks for all you've done for the printing community!

On my printer retraction model from attached gcode looks like a charm for 4mm retraction, but when I copied all (I think) crucial settings to Cura I failed miserably. Is it possible to attach your printer profile for 4mm retraction also for Cura, please?

Looking at the files, what does "with ABL" vs "without abl" mean?
Thank you, sorry for such a noob question

ABL is Auto Bed Level, least in most cases I have seen

Just did my first full 1kg filament test on my Ender 3.

I guess going for full speed with 0.4 retraction....
Yeah baby...

Figured out the retraction speed. Looked through the video and at 8:50 you can see it's 1800mm/min which is 30mm/sec.

THANKS!!... :D I was looking for that!

You should add a Z lifting step at the beginning of your pre-sliced files: without that anyone with bed clips will end up hitting them at start.

G1 F3000 Z10.0 ;move Z axis up 10mm

before starting to heat the nozzle will suffice

Just did that. But I am still learning (<3 weeks newbie)

Please add information to the post about the first layer height. I typically run .24 for my first layer and ended up scratching my ultrabase when running the supplied GCode.

I used the provided GCODE for the temp tower with ABL. I noticed that the bridges in the temp tower are printed AFTER the temperature change. With it that way, the 240 degree bridge is actually a 235ish degree bridge. Also, since it takes a moment for temps to stabilize after a change, the bridge wasn't temperature stable.

Comments deleted.

On the micro all in one test the 2 circles are filled in to the top. I can't seem to find the setting in S3D to correct this. New to 3D printing, any help would be appreciated

Comments deleted.

The retraction test is really nice! What are the travel and retraction speed values for this Gcode?

For the Retraction test poles, they are 30mm tall. With 5mm for each retraction setting, there should be 6 settings. But the photo shows 5 settings of 0, 2, 4, 6, 8. I have observed there was no retraction for the first 10mm of the two poles. What exactly are the settings on this GCODE file? It's so confusing without markings on the model.

I looked through the gcode because I was confused myself and for the first 10mm of the poles there's no retraction. It starts with 2mm retraction at 10mm pole height (roughly 12mm overall height) and goes up by 2mm every 5mm, so from 25-30mm pole height retraction is at 8mm.

I wish this was more prominent. Useful information, thank you.

I couldn't load the temperature tower file to print in octoprint. anyone else experience this issue before?

loaded my to ender's sdcard via octoprint. worked for me.

Thanks so much, going to try these tonight! I am a newbie and was not sure how to combine these gcode tests with the existing start gcode for my printer, since I have an EZABL. Since you made tests with ABL supported I think these will hopefully work straight-away and I can look at them to learn how to combine the code together in the future. You rock!

Are these okay to print even if I haven't calibrated my extruder yet? I mean, would the tests be good enough as reference still? Thanks!

A warning to those with Ender 3 having a glass bed held on by bulldog clips: The heat tower and speed test gcode will crash your extruder into your left front clip.

Glad I read this 5 minutes after my head collided into the clip :P

Haha. Me too remy561. I can also confirm this crashes the front left clip for the retraction test as well. Don't understand why this would not print in the center like everything else.

As I don't have S3D, and don't know how to do the temperature altering thing in Cura, I altered the gcode directly. The intro line now travels along the Y axis instead of X, so it doesn't hit any clips.

edit I did test it, btw. Very useful! It also makes me wonder what else I can do with gcode, like programming something that can generate patterns to print...

Thanks for this. Unfortunately, only found this out after having the nozzle run into my bed clips and ruining it. How stupid do you have to be to set up the gcode that way (X instead of Y), and HOW STUPIDLY IRRESPONSIBLE DO YOU HAVE TO BE TO NOT FIX THE FILE AFTER THIS PROBLEM IS MENTIONED IN SEVERAL COMMENTS!!!!

I just moved my clip from the left front to the front left (at the front on the left edge of the bed) and removed the 'pinch wires' from the clips. I'll report my success (or failure) after a bit of testing.

I just made that discovery, too. Glad I was watching

Timing is everything, they say...

Fastest speed is inner wall @ F4500, outer @ F3000
Seems its starting @ 5mm/s and finishes @ 50mm/s..

Am I missing something? I am getting great results in the 2nd process but starts to ring real bad after that, want to know what speed I was using in that zone.

A question, could you do a test print for testing different accelerations, with otherwise the same speed?

Is there a two layer gap in the surface of the retraction test gfile?
I see two layers, where only the wall is printed, then suddenly the top layer again.

Cant see one in my print pictured in the files.

TT, did you see the gaps?

In Retraction test with ABL. Layer 4 is an even rectangle, or full surface. Layer 5 and 6 are only the walls. Layer 7 again a full surface. That leaves two layers without a full surface.

Thanks for putting this together. What are the speed settings for each of the six processes in the speed test? When I open the .factory file, there is only a single process and I didn't see it detailed in the video. I've watched the video so many times, I may be glazing over at that point, so apologies up front if someone has to point out the obvious.

Also, I'm struggling to understand how the pre-sliced gcode can be useful for everyone. Each of us will likely get a slightly different result for extrusion multipliers, ideal temperature and speed. So once I dialed in my extrusion multiplier, your pre-sliced code became inappropriate since it's missing my specific extrusion multiplier.

For future reference, if you set your extrusion multipler using octoprint, it will stay the same for the print. I assume this will also be true if you wrote it to the firmware.

The speed test goes from 3000 to 6000 mm / min, which is 50 mm/sec to 100 mm/sec every 5 mm. The outline is slowed by 50%, hence the need to slice it hollow so you can see the full speed on the inside walls.

I didn't include it in that config because it would have screwed up a lot of peole. I guess the idea is if you have S3D you will follow the guide and if not, use the pre-sliced gcode.

Extrusion multiplier is important but the resultsof simple things like speed, retraction and temperature shouldn't be affected.

when you say outline is 50% do you mean the outer wall speed vs inner wall speed? or the brim?

i am using cura so i am using the gcode and cannot see the wall speed in the slicer, when i run the test i see under extrusion at the start of the inner wall at most speeds.

I'm wondering if this is due to the inner wall speed or what the retraction settings are on this test, something that could be in the gcode that causes the issues on the inner walls so i can rule out if it really is a speed issue.

thanks for this and the other work you have done for all of us trying to figure out how to run our printers!

Comments deleted.

I know that I'm being dense, complete newbie, but where is the cube for the extrusion / flow rate test?

+1 to that. In cura I can't find a way to create such basic cube.

What is the preset up retraction speed on the retraction test

There is a picture with it annotated. Is the is the main picture for this thing.

The retraction length is annotated but not the speed unless I am missing something. What is the retraction speed?

The two speed test gcodes are the same speed at all heights (according to gcode.ws).

I suspect you have a 'minimum layer time' of 15s. I had to change mine to 5s to get the speeds I asked for, but forgot about acceleration; my 15mm cube was too short to get to full speeds.

You, sir, win the prize. I've corrected this and updated the gcode. Thanks for spotting!

Thanks for the fix. I'm printing it out now...

I had issues with retraction before and manually figured out that 8mm works best for me, after your test – 8mm is still works best for me.

I'm glad the test was useful for verification.

Def a good test, one notice on temperature test the first layer is 245 and it resulted that first layer sticked that hard to original ender surface so I hardly been able to remove it almost damaging the surface, after 10 prints I can still see the left over silhouette.

Thank you for compiling this, TT!

Thank you so much for doing the g codes for me. I have no idea what you are talking about when you go into details but i use idea maker and be very curious to see if this changes things. Do you have any idea how i get layer shifts on one or two parts if others are fine in the same print? Using the ender 3 btw.

If you are printing a grid of the same part, any layer shift should occur on all of them from that point onwards. It should almost be impossible for it to happen any other way. If so I'm stumped.