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3D_Bus_Driver

Creality3D Ender 3 IKEA LACK enclosure with IKEA LEDBERG LED lights

by 3D_Bus_Driver Aug 16, 2018
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Can someone tell me what the inside dimensions are after the assembly is complete? I know pictures speak for itself, but it would be nice to know how much clearance I have between the top of the printer and the bottom of the top table for any accessories that I already have attached to the printer. Thanks!

In my case, with the default rubber feet (about 4 mil) there's exactly 10mm clearance above the top gantry beam.

Hello! first of all, thanks for your great job doing this.
I have a question about doors, looking at the pics i see that the doors opens from top to bottom? or if i use swings i can open them from side to side?

Clarification on the model versions. What's the purpose of the different lips for the plexiglass sides? Example v2 has the full slotted plexiglass holders while v3 has a quarter slot for plexiglass on the Lower Leg Extender. The quarter slot is meant for removal panels?

What are the dimensions for plexiglass

Hi...
Would it be possible for you to post the Fusion 360 files or perhaps STEP files for this Thingi please?

I ask because I have a squash ball feet modification on my Ender 3 to reduce noise and vibration, this has raised the height of the printer and I need to resize the lower leg extenders by 60mm approx in height.

Thanks in advance... :-)

PF

isn't it modifiable from the stl's? in blender we can.

Could someone please tell me what plexiglass dimensions should be?

Just tried to print this and the hinges for the plexiglass doors don’t even fit on the pegs. It’s way off. I didn’t scale anything either.

..why didn't you put the rolls below the table instead of cutting the legs and putting them above??

I appreciate your hard work.

I admire your patience.

I am appalled that the lack of common sense seems so well funded. (Some of questions....).

I wish my Latin, German, French, Russian, et cetera was 10% the qualify of your English.
Cheers, N5LXK

I guess I can wait till it's assembled, but what are the best plexiglass dimensions?

Do you need two tables?

If you had something flat to sit the printer on I guess theoretically you could just print the top pieces for the bottom leg blocks and screw them into the bottom of one table. But the plexiglass doors may catch on your surface due to the hinges flexing

Really nice use of the IKEA tables etc and it is good to have it in a decent enclosure. Question can the STL etc be edited? I have a load of polycarbonate sheets (ex-greenhouse) which are 4mm thick and the thinner holders don't fit them. Looks like maybe you have the original dimensions off the Prusa design?

as for the Plexiglas size I bought these for practice fitment and measurement ideas. they are a lot cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E5YI0QM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_C37ZCbKJQV9KV

and these work too
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GY685H/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_aa8ZCbF3QVQHW

Hi. I see you removed the psu from the frame and put it underneath the table. Did you have to run an earth wire from the psu to the frame. I removed mine from the frame and it kept tripping the main electric breaker but when I connected back on the frame it work perfectly again.
Steve

can you share fusion 360 files please?

I see so many files! Whats needed for a 2 table enclosure? with a front and rear door?

So many files, should we print from the most recent ones (higher version)?

You should not print certain parts, you need to decide which sides you want removeable, door or solid. And based on that you can select the parts you need. They can all be used but it is up to you which configuration you would like.

Ty. Already printing. :)

Well I bought my plexiglass as a kit at 440x440x3 and 440x220x3 and it is short. Being that I bought all the stuff a couple weeks back and just now am getting around to build it this really sucks that the plexiglass is too short.

Did you make it work? Is the gap really a problem? By my calculations if you make the height really tight, you end up with about 2cm of gap both at the top and at the bottom. Does that invalidate the purpose of the enclosure? I suppose you could always add some strip of material to close it off (weatherstripping section of your local hardware store perhaps).

I just finished making this. Thanks for the design. The plexiglass I ordered was 445x465mm and 3mm thick. Although it was a very tight fit. 2mm thick would be easier for fitting.

I found I had to cut a small piece off each corner about 3x15mm to make it fit into the brackets with minimal gap.

I've not done a test print yet but so far I am very happy with the result!

Can you take a picture of the cut that you mention? I had already purchased all the plexiglass when there wasn't any dimensions (Im an idiot) and they are short. So I am looking for the dimensions again. If I use yours I need to know exactly what all was done. Thanks

Seriously, wtf are the plexiglass dimensions? And how is this info not like the 3rd thing listed?

Amazing how you can be rude when someone has the time to make this and share it.

Is there a checklist or something that i know what i need to print? I don't fell like it is enough explained...

What are the dimensions of the plexiglass

This is so cool. Do you plan on making one of these for the CR-10S?

Lack is about 17 3/4" tall. This is not nearly enough for a CR-10.

Can you give directions or point me to a document on how to move the internals and PSU, or what materials are needed to do this?

you need cable extensions for the control board (or you can also use some 6pins XT12 connectors and make a connector box like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2914015), there are already brackets for psu mount under the table on thingiverse and you may need to print an enclosure for the control board

CR-10 Cable extension box
by Ortovox

Very cool design, can't wait till completion! Some parts may not fit perfectly so a bunch of adjustments were made. I printed a few different sizes of parts until they worked well together after editing it in a 3D software. Also made the upper legs a bit higher so there would be more wiggle room at the highest part of the machine for LED lights. Tons of mods and drilling will be done so I can upgrade this awesome enclosure. Will upload a photo to share once I finish. Thanks!!!

I'm looking to build one of these, and the part I am currently stuck on is how to go about wiring the Ledberg strips so they are not directly connected. Could you upload some more photos and close-ups of how you managed that? Thanks!

Same question I have except with the rgb ones

I'm probably being really stupid. But man this file is confusing there are so many versions! Which is probably great for flexibility, but not idiots like me ;) I have a standard Ender-3. Can anyone give me a nod or little break down of just the extenders and stuff I need to print? thanks!

You're not being stupid. I'm staring at 45 files will all manner of version numbers, and no explanation of what's compatible with what.

How i close the lcd box with clip?

DO NOT PRINT AS IS. While the amount of different parts to customize a Lack table with this is cool, there are some serious issues with these objects. (See attached photo). Most are around the lower leg supports, leg 'holders', and hinges. First, the cone-shaped holders that attach to the surface of the inside table - do not fit into the corresponding cavity in the lower leg. There is a gap of several mm, raising the entire leg up. This creates another problem - the legs are designed to hold the plexiglass, and have some gap built in already. Together with the gap created by the holder, your plexi will have a 1cm+ gap all the way around.

The hinges are another issue. As printed, there is 0 tolerance between the hinge swing, both inside and outside, and the pin attached to the lower leg. You could sand both inside and outside of the hinge swing, but why not just make it correctly?

Great concept and initial execution, but this thing is definitely not ready to be printed as-is.

My peices fit together with minimal gap. (what minute gap there is will likley be gone once I trim the z seam with an exacto knife) I would suggest calibrating your extrusion steps, and extrusion width. Once you do this, you can tune to make printed parts fit together with something like this S plug, (minimal ptint time and fillament) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:342198

Part Fitting Calibration
by MEH4d

I have the exact same problem might consider trash all the pieces and print this project : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3083358

IKEA Lack Enclosure Creality Ender 3 Compilation

What did you decide to do? Did you try the link you posted?

I think you need to adjust your slicer settings and check your printer setup. Mine fits pretty nicely all together, very minimal gap.

these are alot of stuff , what parts do you printing im still printing (im printing LOWER_LEG_EXTENDER_v5 right now) ? i am wat to build enclouse too but , theres not so amny options for now as i see , another option is taking prussia enclouser and just resize all leg extenders with +15 santimeters height.

Upload .STEP :)
Thanks!

The Ender 3 has the internal's and power box mounted on the bottom of the printer, so how do you keep the internals from shorting out from the heat. I really want to build an enclosure for my Ender 3, but i'm afraid the internals will short out. Can you help with this? Is there any way to mount the power box on the outside?

Comments deleted.

Awesome enclosure, just finished mine!
I've made a clip for the doors with no magnets: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3248658
I've also made a oblong hole for the filament (better for retraction): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3239681

3D Printer Enclosure Doors Clip (no magnet!)
3D printer Enclosure top filament (1.75mm) guide

Could you post a walk-through on what you printed etc? Because I am completely lost here...

I second that. I'm new to this and I would really appreciate it if there was a list of items to print!

I am completely new to the 3D printing scene and I'd really like to make this enclosure for my Ender 3. But this is just so confusing. Which files do I print and which ones don't I? I have 2 IKEA lack tables at the ready. Also, what are the measurements for the acrylic windows to have them shut tight properly so the hot air doesn't escape right away.

nice one - did you power the Ledberg from the Ender PSU or via the included PSU they came with? I saw its a 24V PSU as well but wondered how you did it

First time having an issue printing a file from thingiverse. The Leg Holder is not fitting in the Lower Leg Extender v3-2. I have a gap beetween these 2 parts of 1.20mm. I've compare the size from the printed objects to the file and they matched. Any idea ?
Edit 1 : when I try to "superimposed" the two pieces the Leg Holder is too big for the Lower Leg Extender

Hello, i've the same problem but it's 2mm between leg holder en lower leg !

Did you find a solution ? Reduce the leg holder to 99% size ?

No I'm still looking for another solution

yep thats the best what we can do ..befor we get insane
its easy to pack a bunch of differrent prints in a folder but its quiet difficult to make a plan.
so i also look for another Thing like this

One question on the filament tube... I haven't printed them yet, so I apologize if it's obvious after I do, but I noticed in the pictures that it looks like you have ptfe tube both before the filter box and then again inside the enclosure. I see how the top of the box is put together, but I don't see how the tube is secured inside the box. It looks as if it would just pull down toward the extruder.

What is the dimension of the plexiglass?? Thank you

Okay, so I want to build one too, but I read somewhere that the Ender-3 doesn't have enough space in there.

Is that true?

What else should I consider? I see you left small cracks open above the window, was that on purpose? Or can I just completely close the thing?

I found that Lack table top acts like a resonator very vell, so stock printer becomesmuch louder. Don't you have a priblem?

Are you still working on this?

Hi, I'm trying to figure out how is LCD cover lock used?

What is the thickness of Plexiglass needed, 3mm? Also, how does the plexiglass remain in the door slots, is glue needed? Thanks.

Hi, what materials you to use best for this? Pla or petg? Is pla strong enough?

Are the leg parts high enough to for dampening feet? I'm currently using these https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2913473 which add around 18mm in height.

Ender 3 Damping Feet

In my case, with the default rubber feet (about 4 mil) there's exactly 10mm clearance above the top gantry beam. So no, not by default. There are some 'blank' top pieces (no sticky-out bits) that you can print to gain some more room, maybe.

Hello. Would it be possible to move the swing location to be partly under the leg? This would allow bigger plexi glass on the swinging door and wouldn't leave so wide gap at the side.

Would this work with the TEVO tarantula?
I think it's pretty similar to Ender 3 and I don't see many parts specific to the ender 3. seems like it would work for any similar printers, yeah?

As long as it fits within the Lack dimensions, roughly 45cm/45cm/47cm (approx. 18inch cube), it would work fine. I don't own a TEVO, so I cant vouch for the cables from the controlbox to the printer being long enough in a stock configuration.

Hi,
Would it be possible for a better explanation of which lowerleg versions do what? :)

Ones with a round pole, those go with the swing to make a door
One with slot with equal height sides is for fixed plexi glass
One with a slot with one side lower height and at angle is for removable plexi glass

Then there are different combinations of the above for different sides of the enclosure.

The spool holder seems to be too large for the Ender 3 print bed, at least with the dimensions I have in my Cura profile (220x220x250). Perhaps I'm doing something wrong, but how have others with the Ender 3 been able to make this?

You can savely set the print bed size to 235x235 (I have), as the bed actually IS that size.

hello can you share the fusion 360 files or the steps? thanks

Are there any problems with overheating steppers, Mainboard or powersupply at longer prints with closed doors?

+1 to that. On the one hand I want to put my printer in such enclosure to keep it save from possible stupid ideas of my cats, on the other hand I wonder if there can be overheating problems.

I've thought a lot about this project. I definitely want to enclose my printer to be able to handle materials like ABS better. However, after much consideration, it seems to me that the Ender 3 is not the best choice for this; due to needing to move the electronics and power supply without having proper extensions to purchase. I don't think Creality ever intended for this to be done. The printers with remote power supplies and electronics are the best candidates for this project. I do congratulate you on all of the work you are doing on it. Once completed, it should be a nice, small enclosed printer with the ability to put out some really nice models.

There's a huuuuge list of things to this project. Which ones do i need to build that. Could you provide informations to the single pieces?

Great piece.

1 question.
Where is this small part I see on the bottom of the Fillament filter? You cacn see it on the open filter.

It's notsome small part, it's the T shape part with the hole through it where you put PTFE tube from below. On the photo you see only a part of that T shape because it goes through the top Ikea table where manually 10mm hole is drilled to fit a T shape part.

AHA, on the drawing of that part, the whol things seems round. No opened in Cura, I see there is more to it. Thnx. Was looking for this thingi.

No problem. Glad I could help ;)

are you able to advise on the particular files in terms of which corner etc? im getting a bit confused! im looking to make this with swing door at the front.

I'll Try ;) Best will be if you download all the files then preview them in Paint 3D for example.
First you need to choose also what you want on the left and on the right side, as well as on the back. The back I guess will be fixed so look for the U shape on the back. The front is the swing, choose which side to open the swing so the other side must be empty. I know it sounds a little confusing, but it's like assembling Lego Technic bricks :)
If it's still confusing, reply to me and describe for each side what you want and I'll post screenshot in Fusion 360 the right order for you.
Will this be ok?

Are you using all 3 ledberg led pieces or just one piece from the pack in one enclosure? I assume wires between them if all 3 are in use? Looks awesome so far, waiting for the swing doors to be added so I can create those for my enclosure once I have my printer :)

Yes, I use all 3 pieces of LEDBERG , you just need some wires and solder them together.
I hope I'll get swings done soon ;)

Awesome, thank you so much!

@Threedee_Bus_Driver

Can you please add a list of whats required, I can't tell if your using 1 or 2 lacks per enclosure from just the photo's?

Cheers
Brian

Thanks!

Here's another one I found that may give some ideas as well.. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2174829

double door (IKEA) Lack enclosure
by mcooz

Love this Idea as I am in the process of building my printer enclosure. I do have a question however. How is the ambient sound given that the Lack tables are hollow? With the bottom one so close to the mounting table, may it be 150mm, is the printer sound louder now? Love the lift idea as mine will be tabletop as well. Great Job!

The lack tables don't make any sound because if you look closer to the bottom leg holders, underneath I stick some 2mm thick fabriclike thingie (can't find word in english, sorry ). Also I have installed stepper motor vibration dampers, and man I cannot tell you how much those reduce the noise. I strongly recommend them.
At the moment I'm working on getting all the electronic parts outside of the enclosure due to overheating the power supply and the motherboard. There I'll replace the fans to Noctua fans for low noise.

The purpose of this enclosure was to print in ABS and ASA, because I make addons for my bus (coach),and those parts need to be UV and IR resistant.

As this is my hobby, and I drive a lot, updates might not come as often as they normally would. Sorry for this. But I'll get it done :)

Just wanted to chime in and say I'll be keeping an eye on this as it progresses, and that I love the idea of people regardless of their field getting into 3D printing more and more. Do you mind giving some examples of things you've printed/designed for your bus?

Also, the word you can't find is probably "felt".

O right thats exactly the word, similar in my language ;) thanks. For the bus parts I'll not publish them on Thingiverse, only photos on my Facebook page. And this is really A BIG work in progress because these parts need a lot of measuring on the spot with a lot of different tools, a lot of test prints before they'll actually be mounted as a finished product. Some of them will have electronic parts, cameras and so on.

For the time being there's only one addon, you can see it on my Facebook page, many more to come. There's also a photo of my bus, Mercedes-Benz Tourismo RHD17.

Nice work.

do u know the dimensions of the glas ?

I bought 500x500x2mm plexiglass and cut it wih sharp knife. In my case height is 444mm and width 463mm. But it really depends on how accurate is your mounting of the leg extenders.

Would 18x24 .100 (1/10") acrylic fit the leg extenders? It's a lot more common to find and is cheaper