Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

wersy

Flying Wing Buratinu

by wersy Sep 4, 2018
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Hello. There are three versions of fuselage front part. Which one should I print?
Thank you.

fuselage 1 has 1.5° motor camber, no side pull, hole distance 16/19
fuselage 1 mc4 has 4° motor camber, no side pull, hole distance 16/19 rotated by 90°
fuselage front mc4 sp2 hd25 has 4° motor camber, side pull 2°, hole distance 25/25

If your motor has hole distance 16/19 ich would take fuselage1 mc4.

I will use 17.5g servos. They fits almost perfectly.
Thank you for your help. I was a little busy last days so my wing have to wait.

Wersy, I do not think I can use your gcode. I am printing 125% version. All I need is the right STL file

I know that you can't use it for printing. It was just for information that it works. You can also try Slic3r 1.1.7.
Take a close look at the settings in the gcode.
Sorry, but the Buratinu has already been printed 4 more times without any problems.
Have a look at the pictures.

Wersy, wow I printed your gcode right now and panel is perfect. It is mystery. I have printed the panel 100% and 125% on two different printers and three slicers with a tens of settings with no success. Panel #2 and both brackets (and all other parts) ware perfect but panel #1 was as you seen.
Make me favor, give me gcode 125% for panel #1, please.

I can hardly believe it, it has a wingspan of 73 inches!
And even more in this good quality.

Is the surface so smooth everywhere, I mean without waves, not even on the underside?
What wall thickness did you print with?
Which material did you use?
How much do all this parts weigh together?

But I see a problem. You have scaled the wing ends (W6) 400%. This means that the connectors and the elevon axis are not aligned.
You cannot tighten the wingtips as intended as you can see in the attached picture that shows it in principle.
The elevon axle cannot be inserted into the wing end.

It should be possible to exchange as many parts as possible:

  • wingtip
  • winglet
  • elevon
  • wings
  • fuselage in two parts

Sure, I'll slice the panel into 125% tomorrow.

Yes, surface is smooth on both sides.
Wall thickness 0.5mm
White PLA Greeetech (on Amazon), real red PLA 3D Solutech (on Amazon).
Printed parts weight 1350g.
Yes, W6 is overscaled. wingtips are "custom". Looks much nicer, I hope.
I have no idea how it will fly :-D

The weight is pretty good. Relative to the wing area the result is 20 g/dm².

But I would recommend you not to stretch the wingtips.
How do you want to insert the tubes and guide the elevon axis if they are not aligned?

I uploaded the gcode for panel 1 scaled to 125%.

Wersy, thank you for gcode but...…
My Tevo Flash do not work now and I am printing on Ender3 which table is smaller. Could you place this panel on the center, please.
Misalignment is relatively small and axis tube fits perfect (almost :-) ). Good enough.

I uploaded a new gcode with distance X110 mm, Y110mm from zero.
As to the stretched elevons, the effect of the ailerons will be less, because the elevons do not sit so far outside anymore.

I should said : thank you but I can't.

  1. Wrongly scaled. Looks like Y axis was scaled to around 170%.
  2. Looks like extrusion width was 0.4mm not 0.5mm
  3. Do not know why brim layers do not stick together
  4. Outer and inner walls are separated.
    Take a look on my pictures, please.
    First picture: my print have gaps, yours is perfect (some under extrusion in the center was caused by braided filament, my fault)
    Second and third pictures - disintegrated brim.
    Forth picture: upper panel is my, lower is yours.
    My suggestions: scaling is obvious, width is obvious, temperature - could you increase temperature up to 225C, please. Colling - 100% starting on the 2nd layer.
    Next Gcode will be perfect :-)

About my wing tips. W6 was scaled 125% in X and Y axis. Axis Z was scaled 400% (if I remember), so elevons geometry is unchanged.

I'm afraid you need to check the y steps calibration.
That's why the print width becomes too thin.

I printed the first gcode, the scaling is fine as you can see on the picture.
Additionally I printed it scaled 125%.

The new gcode has more flow to make the part more stable. The temperature is set to 225°. Do you print all PLA filaments with such high temperature?

The aileron effect is somewhat reduced because the elevon does not go so far out in relation to the wingspan.

It is nothing about calibration.
Yes, all my single wall prints are 225C. No cooling on bigger parts and 50% to 100% cooling on the smaller ones.
I checked different scale ratio and panel is ALWAYS symmetrical. Does not matter: uniform scaling or not. It is logical on the other side. Just geometry. There is no way to make panel asymmetrical by slicer.
Your new Gcode gives the same asymmetrical footprint as an old one (see picture: new on top, old on the bottom).
Now I have no more ideas why prints are goin wrong.
I will patch my best print with 3D pen and it have to be "good enough".

Do you already know which servos you're taking?
If you give me the measurements, as in the attached sketch, I will design the servo mount for you.

That's very strange. If the same gcode prints the part correctly with my printer, but distorts it with your printer, then there must be something wrong with your printer.

What if you print a cube with this printer and see what happens?

You may not have the new gcode. The exact name is access_panel_01_scale125.
But there is only changed the flow.

Comments deleted.

Wersy, you changed nothing. Your "new" access panel 1 is exactly as the old one. The same missing layers.

I just uploaded a gcode "JA5A5S_acces panel1.gcode".
You can import it to see that it works with Cura and have a look at the settings.

Is there a bill of materials for this project? I'm doing some pricing and I would very much like to build one.

how do i get the other side for all the wing pieces.....

All you have to do is mirror the pieces in the slicer.

I am using xyz 3 in 1 pro printer and can't find how to mirror. any other software will work....

If your software can't mirror, just use another slicer like Repetier Host.
https://www.repetier.com/download-now/
After mirroring a part, save it under a different name. This is the leftmost button "Export".

thanks. will try this one.....

OK I was thinking that was the fix. and just wasn't sure if it would work. will do it thanks....!!

In the video it looks like you started it with help like an EDF (Gummi).
Can this one be hand launched in any way?
Otherwise I'd be better of printing your red midi swept wing I guess.
I like the looks of this one a lot but I prefer to go for hassle free hand launch models or ones with landing gear.

Your models rock btw - please don't get mne wrong.

You don't need bungee launch. Look on RC-Network:
http://www.rc-network.de/forum/showthread.php/682097-Drohne-aus-St-Petersburg-drucken/page3

wingman3 wrote:
The plane flies so easily and for the hand launch we need only a small push.

Fantastic. I got some projects still but I'll print one of these one of these days.
Thank you!

Hello Wersy
Nice design! I'm planning to print one in the next days
I saw you printed it in PLA, do you think PETG could be a viable option?
Usually it's best performing in shock absorption..

Then, which slicer do you use?
I tried to preview in Simplify3d and Slic3r Prusa edition with suggested settings but on wing parts parallel ribs walls don't seem to fuse together..
Should I set extrusion multiplier to overextrude a little bit?
Thanks again

Hi,

Printing in PETG is much more difficult, but if you are able please try it.
I am afraid, the surfaces will be then wavy on the bottom side.

The gap between the ribs must be 0.1 mm, otherwise you are not able to print continuously spiral vase like.
Unfortunately the parallel ribs never fuse together but this is no problem.

Don't overextrude, it will make the wing heavier. The EW should be at most 0.5 mm.

I'm going with petg.
For me printing PETG is as difficult as PLA.
The important is to use heated bed (60/70C) and hair spray on the bed glass to attach pieces.
I use a PETG brand really easy to print, nozzle temperature 205/210 C (215C first layer).
Do you have any forum discussion on the build of this flying wing so I can search/ exchange hints?
Thanks
Pietro

I can only refer you to the german rc-network forum.
http://www.rc-network.de/forum/showthread.php/682097-Drohne-aus-St-Petersburg-drucken
Theo Häusler has printed 2 models but has not flown yet.
wingman3 has flown his model several times.
But both have printed in PLA.

The problem with PETG is it tends to form waves printing thin wall.
We noticed that with my boat.
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:199744
The fuselage had to get additional stiffening. The result was rather borderline.

Speed Boat 3 RC
by abcona

Yesterday I printed the fuselage 1 piece in petg an the result was good. Of course it has thick walls...
Today I will try with a piece of wing to see how it comes.
In the meantime I registered to the german forumthanks

wingman3 printed the wings with EW 0.4 mm, exept of W1 rear and W1 middle. This way he saved 150 grams.
Currently I try it also with 0.4 mm wall. It seems to work.

Super!
I tried to print W1 front with PETG @205C and slow fan.
The bottom (not root) of the wing is super stiff and well curved, the top one a little wavy... Not that much but surface seems a little wobbling.
I Think I'm going to print fuselage in PETG and wings in PLA.
For motor I just ordered a Sunnysky X2216 1250KV that has a1350g trust @ 29A 3S with 10x4.7 prop (I'll use a 10x4 aeronaut cam folding prop).
My plan is to use this FW for slope soaring mainly. Near my home there is a nice sunny spot with lot of thermal lift during spring and summer.
I think I'll print also your forward swept plank :)
In the meantime I'm trying to learn CAD modelling. I use Onshape but I'm moving to Fusion 360..

I have just aborted the print with EW 0.4, although it was more like 0.38.
The front 2 double spars did not merge with the upper hull. In this area everything is wavy.
Now I try with 0.45 mm. That looks good so far.

Yes, the Buratinu flies best in gliding flight and is therefore well suited for the slope. The wing has a slightly positive torque. You have to press at full throttle, as well as at inverted flight.

I would be happy if you would print the swept forward. That's the only one who hasn't flown yet.
It will certainly be a bit fast.

And yes, go to Fusion 360 - although if it gets too extensive, it can be quite annoying...

I know usually print @EW less than nozzle hole is problematic. I usually print @ nozzle +10% (0.44mm) and important is to fine tune your extrusion multiplier with thin wall test.
This night fuselage will be finished, then I'll go for wings.
My learning curve in 3D modelling is steep. I started 2 years ago by hobby..
Thanks

I combined W4 and W5 and printed it in one oiece.
EW 0.45, LH 0.25
It weighs 64 grams.
My single parts W4 weighs 43 grams W5 weighs 32 grams = 75 grams.

This is only a test.
Never use black for wings!

I combined W4 and W5 and printed it in one piece.
EW 0.45, LH 0.25
It weighs 64 grams
My parts EW 0.50 weigh W4 = 43 grams, W5 = 32 grams = 75 grams

This is only a test.
Never use black for wings!

I completed the fuselage. PETG without access panels is 114g.
Then I tried to print W1 parts with PLA. I made many test and the best result is printing with 0,2mm layer height and 0,46mm EW, printed with Simplify3d with two print process, the first used for 0-98.8mm single wall corkscrew, the second 98.8-100mm single wall 6 top layer.
This way S3D prints the whole piece in spiralized mode and then adds the 6 (1,2mm) top 100% infill layers.
Then shall I glue together front/middle/back pieces? And segments attached with tape to easily substitute them in crash event?

My last S3D experience with combination spiralvase with top layer was very bad. The connection spiralvase to top layer is not good.

All wing parts must be glued!
Maybe W4/W5 with adhesive tape, but only if thejoints are tight, and only at your own risk!
To be on the safe side I glued everything.

Any chance you could combine W3 and W4 into a single file? Also W5 & W6. I have a 210 mm z axis. I've tried all the mesh editing programs I have to no avail.

It would be no problem to combine these parts.

But to be able to print W5 and W6 in one piece, W6 has to be changed. The disadvantage is, you can't change the winglet. For example to change its size or thickness. Or in case of damage.

Combining W3 with W4 results in an overhang at W4. The resulting bridge then sags in the area of the servo cover which cannot be removed.

BTW, I just ordered the CR-10S.
With this printer I will try to print the hull in two parts.
The 3 W1 parts in 2 parts
The 2 W2 parts in 1 part
W4 and W5 in 1 part

OK. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

What size prop are you using?

Sorry, I just added this to the list.
Propeller: Aeronaut CAM Aeronaut Carbon Classic 10 x 6"

Thanks, just the answer that I was hoping for. I have one on hand.

What parts have you already printed?

I'm printing the three fuse parts now.

The transition from the motor bulkhead to the fuselage shell should be printed as hot as possible.

I'm printing at the max recommended temps. Fillimentum PLA

210° seems OK

I've downloaded the files but it seems to be missing some of the wing files.

There are only wing files for the right side.
You must mirror them in your slicer.

Thanks. I'll try that.

Awesome model!
Are you sure the CoG is at 113 mm? That seems way too short.

Thank you!
And thank you so much for pointing that out. This is a typo, the CoG is at 228 mm.

Comments deleted.

Hello dear, very nice!! What polimer did you used?

Hi,
PLA as usual.
But I took lighter colors ;-)
The black nose was actually only a test.