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localfiend

36" Northern Pike RC Airplane (It Flies!)

by localfiend Aug 8, 2018
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Hello

I really like this plane and printed it once. Would you be so kind and send me the step or part file for the whole plane as one piece? I would really like it because i want to cut the plane in bigger parts.

Thanks in advance
Gary

super plane pas encore fine

This an awesome flyer - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPk2NSDiBLk
For this entire flight only used 900maH
Check out next linked video for 4cell performance

Printing this on my Balco Touch 3D with the provided gcode files. printing almost flawlessly!! I will share a make when I get it all assembled.

"keep in mind that I will be posting a smaller version of this designed around a .3mm nozzle once it's tested."

Has this happend yet? Thank you!!!

Hello! I have started to print the model, I would like to know if you have tried it with some engine of less kv with a bigger helix, to try to increase the flight time and try to use it for long range.
Greetings and great work!

I've started printing one of these. Fuselage in Red, Wings in White, and the tips and tailfins in Blue. I have painted the first wing section from the tailfin out white to make a nice separation line. I'm liking the way it looks. If it flies, This will be a super fun addition to my fleet.

Hey @localfiend, great work on this design! I'm finishing my build up this weekend, but decided against the 3d printed firewall - I've seen too many of those fail in flight on quads to trust them. I created a remix of your motor mount to accommodate a wooden firewall. Still untested until I get a chance to maiden, but I'm going to give it a shot. I'm hoping it doesn't add too much weight https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3574710

Northern Pike 36" Wood Firewall
Comments deleted.

?Hello m8 which scaling shall i use for a .5 mm nozzle?

Regads

I noticed the fuse gcodes don't have brims or helper circles. Unfortunately they're very thin and have come of the build plate several times. I'll be editing the s3d file. But I'm curious if you could add a brim for these files. Or circles. Ty!

Started printing the other night. S3D Factory files work perfectly just tweaked for bed size and retraction settings on my Ender 3. Excited to add this to the fleet!

Can you tell me how you tweaked the files or maybe share the custom ones for the ender3? Thanks so much.

so you are saying that i cant use the prusa slic3r??

What adhesive are you using for the PETG? I have not had good success with CA glue.

BSI brand CA glue for me. Has worked great for every brand of PETG I've printed plane parts with so far. Medium is what I usually use, but am experimenting with thin stuff. Thin can be a lot cleaner if you are very careful about not applying too much.

Boltface!
Cant wait ti try it out.

Got mine airborne today. This is a very good flier! Thanks a lot for sharing.

Anyone set this up fpv?

Looks like the make by Waur is all setup for FPV:
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:541260

36" Northern Pike RC Airplane (It Flies!)
by Waur

Another question please. How is the battery holder positioned and fixed? Is it glued to the battery compartment floor?

Yeah, just glue the two pieces down in a spot that'l center up with your battery after you get an idea where it needs to be to balance. I just use one set and a single strap, but if you wanted, you could do two.

Thanks for replies. All is now clear!

Regarding fuselage sections and the popsickle trick. Would it be possible to actually attach thin tabs (0.5 mm thick) of PETG to one section and use them to locate AND reinforce the joint? I am concerned the edge-to-edge joining of very thin sections may be difficult.

You could add some bits of plastic to it yourself, but it's not actually that big a deal. I have made 6 fuselages now, and if you just take a bit of time with the sticks, it's quite easy. If you're really that concerned, use a slower drying glue like epoxy, or foam tac. I'm not going to add printable tabs. They're too brittle, often don't print perfect enough, and can actually make assembly harder to get perfect. Plus, if they're big enough to be strong enough to take any trimming (of blobs if one happens), then they get heavy and ugly. One thing I may do, is make it so you can slot those sections together with toothpicks, wire, or carbon rod. Just need to find the time.

OK. I can do that with Slic3r but I guess I will have to print duplicates when I print the Fuselage Section 1 piece?

Fuselage section 1 is also a non thin walled part, that's why it was grouped with the other two. Slic3r will handle it just fine. Just turn on supports for it.

Printing from you gcode and its working fine on my Prusa Mk3. I would like to print the Firewall and Motor Mount in ABS, but gcode for them includes Fuselage section. Any chance of a gcode for just the firewall and motor mount?

No need, you can slice those parts yourself. The firewall and motor mount are not thin wall parts, so any slicer will work with them.

I have a Prusa I3 MK3. Are your GCodes okay for this printer ? I ask as I have Slic3r PE and that will not give the correct GCodes.In fact I have already faced that problem in another print.

Yes, the posted G-Codes were made and tested on a Prusa I3 MK2s. A MK3 is essentially identical in this context. Slic3r will not work, it's spelled out in the printing instructions. You either need to use Simplify3D, or download and use the Cura profile in the thing files.

Thanks.... I have already started with your Gcodes..... I like your idea of helper discs. Will complete the black wing tips etc. in few hours....

cool design!

what are the limitations the prevent slic3r from being used?

Slicer will only slice the outer skin, it doesn't see the internal structure at all, and I don't believe there are any settings that can change that.

so cool, do your have some video teaching us how to make a hollow fame like yours?

I don't currently have a tutorialvideos, but the build threads have a lot of good information about the design process.,

i love it & looking forward for more designs from you

Why do I read that almost all component are supposed to be printed with 1 perimeter, and when I load the factory files in simplify3d for PLA I see 2 perimeters?

Look closer, there are multiple processes. The factory files have 2 perimeters for the first 3mm only, the rest is 1 perimeter. The 3mm doubled section helps with bed adhesion, and part strength once it's glued together. It's not strictly neccessary, but it's nicer when set up that way.

Section 3 of the wing stl files (left and right) has extra structure where the stabilizers are supposed to go.
EDIT: nevermind, figured it out :) Built in support that is supposed to be torn away. Probably make note of that someone in the directions ;)

Yeah, it's hard to get all instructions on thingiverse when it's only text. The linked build thread goes into detail with pictures on how to remove the supports. I'll be working on getting all that stuff put into an instructions PDF that can be posted here. Just got to find the time.

I really like your design. I plan to try printing one for powered flight, but I'd also like to try a slope glider version. Any chance you would make the CAD files available so I could make a 'remix' for un-powered flight?

I may at some point, right now the CAD is a mess. I split the file up to make it easier to edit without CPU bottlenecks, but that created two large files that Fusion360 has to maintain on the cloud. With my terrible internet, I've built up a huge backlog. Trying to get everything synced up, but for some reason Fusion likes to stop on me. Possibly because my internet occasionally stops. May just need to move my computer to work for a day so it can update and clean itself up.

Hi
When I slice the stl files I am getting only shells. Are you using infill.

No infill. You need to use either Simplify3d or cura. Simplify3d will work natively, while cura needs a few things turned on in order to slice the internal structure. There is a cura profile in the download that will work, just load it and tweak the settings to suit your machine.

Thanks I used your gcodes slightly modified. Have been using Repetier host. It has a version of Cura and Sli3r built in. Neither would work. Have built several thin wall structures but this stumped them.What is weird is that the inner is two layers thick and shell but one. I have been thinking that some of the printing issues that I have been having were slicer related.

I have white ABS in my machine so I decided to print with it. Printed the leading edge wing roots. Made a good, no better or great wing. Maybe a little thin on the skin where the structure transitioned from the fuselage to the the wing. But still nice. The idea of a thick wing should give a lot of lift at low speed.

My own designs, some published here on thingaverse. I have used a printed body and foam board wings. Most are planks. I too use Fusion 360 but have not quite grasped the creation of the inner structure that you used. I understand how to cut it out using the inner surface but not the actual block of reinforcement. I have used 3% infill as a substitute.

Dave

Thanks for the gcodes! I will print this after my current project!

No problem man. These kinds of things can be challenging to print, I'm doing all I can to try and make it easier.

What CAD software did you use to create the plane?

Looks Awesome I have to trie it.
Am I the only one who has to change the slicing toleranze in Curo to exclusive just to get the internal Rips printed ?

Probably not. Cura takes some additional setup, and I'm not that familiar with it. I've been trying to download the latest version so I can create a profile for it. You can search around, I believe 3dlabprint have some stuff, don't know if it's up to date to the latest version though. Will be nice when slicers or cad figure out a standard way to handle custom infill, which is essentially what the ribs and internal structure are. I'll work on getting working profiles to use as a baseline for cura in both PLA and PETG. This is why I recommend simplify3D, it just works and I can make factory files for it easily.

I totaly agree with you.
Sadly my printer (ender 3) costs less than the simplify license... I have to be hornest I rather buy a seccond printer than a license.
I looked at the 3dlabs settings and as far Ive seen you have to enable thin wall printing and on some versions of cura the toleranze for it to even recognice the ribs.
Thanks for your work
I hope we see more stuff from you in the future.
If I find out more about the Cura settings I let you know.

Cool, sounds good. And I hear you on the multiple printers thing. I've got 3 now.... Much nicer especially for largish projects like this. I have g-codes posted for PETG that should run on the Ender. They've got all the nice fixes that simplify3d offers. If the tune works for your machine and filament that could be the easiest option. Will hopefully soon also have g-codes for PLA posted as well.

Cura Profiles are up now. Seems to be working well, though I do still prefer simplify3d. Multiple processes like more perimeters at the bottom, and changing layer heights to better suit wingtips is king.

THANKS! Gcodes from S3D are king when it comes to printing these complex prints.
I've printed about half of this off in PLA using Cura and it has turned out well, but having rough landed a few other PLAnes, when I saw your PET build I stopped and switched gears.

Note for anyone who's looking for really good Cura profiles for 3D planes, get the ones provided with the Shark.Aero (also available for free on this site and is an outstanding flyer!) and make sure to set Cura's mesh fix Merged Meshes Overlap to 0, that fixes the missing rib structures.

Thanks for the input. I don't have a lot of cura experience so this is quite helpful.

LOL, looks like I'll be slicing in Cura after all, the retract before starting a new layer is too much (or not enough priming) for my Titan extruder :) Otherwise the prints come out gorgeous and you may have convinced me to finally get S3D! Many thanks for all the work you've put into this!

Darn. Yeah, certainly too much retraction for the titan. It must require a lot less than an e3dv6, I don't think you can fix that big of a hole with priming. Simplify3D is totally worth it. You can get so much better and faster prints with the ability to use multiple processes anywhere you want.

look great !!!
nice work

Is the design based on something? I could have sworn I've seen it somewhere before. Fantastic work regardless!

I believe the CUDA was probably the most well know, but there are several other forward swept wing planes out there. This one is closest to the Dart RMRC sells. There's also the Strix Goblin.

I took out my hat... Impressive work!

Outstanding work! It was awesome of you to post the files out there for free but I still sent sent you a tip and I hope others will do the same. There is a lot of work you put into this.

Thanks for the support man! Thanks to everyone who has chipped in so far. It will help keep me in filament and working on new planes!

Oh man...next stop GI Joe X-30!

Haha. I suppose it could use some underwing hardpoints :D

Fantastic Job!! The Slot design is genius.

I saw your thread on the forum and really want to print this but I figured I would make sure the electronics I have are enough. I have a full flight test f pack and some 550mah lipos from my mini drone. I figured I would need bigger batterys but I'm not sure if the servos are the right size. I have a 3mm nossel so I could do the 27inch version you talked about. Awesome job with this design!

F pack motor might work on the 36", especially if it's the newer 2205 red bottom version. It will definitely work on the small one. Loads of excess power there. You will need bigger batteries, or build yourself a parallel connector to use more than one. The 27" version will need print testing before I post it up here. If you're interested in printing one before then and testing, contact me on the FT forum.

Thanks for the quick response! I am mainly concerned about servos now as I fear they might be to small for this size plane. This would be my second RC plane (my f mini mustang never got past me cutting the allerons and destroying the wing lol) and I want to keep fustration to a minimum. I don't mind creating a little holder if they work but don't fit the holes. Thanks

I've sized the holes on the mini to fit standard hxt500 5 gram servos. Most 5g servos seem to fit in that size slot. So have you flown an RC plane before? This is probably a bad one to learn on. It's fast, and that doesn't give new guys much time to react.

No not really but I have been dedicating a good portion of my time to practicing on a Sim for rc planes. My favorite ironically is the ultrafast EDF jet they have. It goes 150 ish and I can control that. I also have spent time leaning how to fly real planes too. I have even taken the controls of a real cessna 175 before and the pilot said I did really good and I thought I did good (I only turned a bit and flew in a straight line for like 15min) I also fly fpv drones. I will start looking for batteries and servos for the beta print 27inch. Any suggestions. You can reply in the form as I now have an account. Thankks so much