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fafabienman

Guide z-axis Creality ender 3

by fafabienman Aug 3, 2018
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Another mod like this made from someone who does not know Mechanics, 3D Printing or "Overdefinition". Skip this mod or take the proper Bearing (self-aligning ball bearing).

When will such Placebo Upgrades die?

bonjour et merci ce monte sur une Alfawise U20

What kind of T screws do we need to use? Can we use the M3 sized screws?

Comments deleted.

Anyone else having an issue with the Z-Axis binding at the top? With this on my Z gets about two thirds to the top and then binds up and wont move. If I remove this it goes all the way. This would indicate a bend in the lead screw but that is something that cannot be changed.

i put it on with the z at the plate and slowly heated it up with a heat gun. while still heating it i brought the z all the way up to the top and let it cool down at the top this gave me the perfect distance and angle.

Yeah this design doesn't work for me either. The offset in the x-direction is pretty far off. Its very close in the y-direction though. Bought my ender 3 a couple weeks ago, could be an issue with newer models.

Depending on the manufacture date, the Z motor tilts slightly away from the front of the machine. Easy to check, put your thumb between the base of the lead screw then run it up the screw and you will find that the gap widens at the top. Just pulling the top of the screw over won't help, you MUST SHIM the stepper motor. I used a trimmed business card at the top to tilt it away from the rear. There are a couple of shims on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3124959 << has some info. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2925230 or https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3115362

Ender 3 Z Axis Motor Spacer (3mm and 4.5mm)
Ender-3 Z-motor spacer / support
Ender 3 Z motor mount shim & offset
by Leveos

Thanks for the info, but my Ender doesn't have this problem; there's less than 0.6mm deviation from the bottom to the top of the z-screw. I'm sure someone else will appreciate the info though!

I meant that this z-axis guide pushes my z-axis out of alignment.

Then surely you need a new z screw and it's not the designs fault? lol. They're not expensive.

Z screw is likely OK. Test it by rolling it on a flat surface and watching for gaps. More likely the Z stepper motor is not square with the gantry. Use the shims found in Thingiverse; see links in above comments.

Never said it was the designs fault, I asked if anyone else had a similar issue, in hopes they may be able to share a solution.

Hello, thx for print^^ about this problem i haven't see.
Maybe unscrew a little and try to go up.
If i can improve the model i'm aware!
Maybe missing 0.5mm in Y ?

Works wonders. Thanks. Piccie attached.

How tight is the non-bearing version supposed to be? I just printed it and it doesn't slide on, but it seems like it will screw on.

FYI, my bearing press fits in this mount by hand. Tight but not difficult. The Acme Lead screw sits in the middle with a slight bit of play.

Comments deleted.

Can this really be printed without supports? If so, which print orientation would work best without supports?

Without support for the simple version without bearing. (my first post)
With bearing you need supports yes. Or not if you print the face with 2 holes on the bed.

I printed the bearing version with supports in the default orientation and it came out perfectly. Bearing fits nice and snug. Great design, thanks for uploading :-)

Constraining the z-axis lead screw at the top leads to Z-banding artifacts. Any bend in the z-axis lead leadscrew will lead to minor movements of the print head. those of us who've been printing since the beginning starting with rep-raps and Makerbot Cupcake CNC's understand :-).

I don't understand how this can be the case. Ender 3 has a fixed gantry so Z movement can't affect X or Y movement. The Z axis moves up the gantry in a linear fashion. All this does is keep the lead-screw straight and over time, if it is not completely straight to start out with, it will straighten due to the fixed Z gantry.

The wheels aren't ridged enough to stop distortion.
If the lead screw wobbles this will make the print quality worse, if it doesn't wobble it will do nothing.

OndrashekZ what's the problem? I don't understand your question.
The axis is free inside the bearing (8mm) and for the support normaly the bearing is insert with a slight force.

You are right. It needs force and a little lubricate to put 608Z bearing to shaft (rod).

How did you attach 608Z bearing to shaft? I dont figure out, how attach it, because bearing don't fit well.

how tight is the tolerance between the 608Z and the shaft? I'm thinking that it may actually hurt the accuracy if its too tight.

works with z steper spacer?

Print an additional z-stepper side spacer to accommodate this. You will need slightly longer m4 screws than the 2 spares provided in the kit as well. I used m4*20.

Classic T nut and screw M4*10

I got none of these damn classic T nuts as spares lol. I think I got a tight a-ss trainee assembler. Even my dupont for the z motor was tied up INSIDE the boards' box amd zip tied. Bearings have arrived.. Beyond half a mm of resistance it fits perfectly. Just gotta get it past top of thread on a cheap nasty Chinese chop of the rod lol

What hardware is needed to attach it to the frame?

V2 coming soon with bearing 608z ;-)

Yes I find that a bearing here is not too essential, a little gap it's ok also

It make sense with a bearing