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Piper3D

Piper 2 3D Printer (CoreXY design based on EMT conduit pipes) US version

by Piper3D Jul 27, 2018
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Greetings, in the process of printing the parts for this. You have a few items in the list of parts that are not in the quantities list. How many of gantry-X_carriage-Heater_holder.v1.1, gantry-X_carriage-Sensor_Pin, and Y_Sensor_pin are needed for the printer? Also how are the rest of the instructions coming along? About ready to buy the pipe and screws. Don't see the parts for the extruder in the list of files. Are they the same as the Piper 1? Thanks

For the extruder I am using my version of Greg Wades extruder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2919516 and 2 "extruder_holder_base.stl" to mount it on the pipe.

Piper3dGW extruder
by Piper3D

Parts which are not mentioned in the list need to be printed as single item

Thanks for all the information. I think I have all of the parts printed, except the Base Caps, my printers not big enough to print them. I am going to be purchasing the hardware to assemble the frame and all, but not sure what bolts and nuts to get except the ones you have listed. Any additional assembly information you can give me. It would be cool if you labeled the assembly pictures with bolts, screws and nut sizes. Thanks.

Thank you for your suggestion. I will try finishing my BOM for fasteners and make notes on assembly instructions. Also please joing our FaceBook group you may get responce and advice there much faster from other people building Piper 2s. https://www.facebook.com/groups/258663638022956/

Okay will do. Thanks.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

I am evaluating upgrading my Anet A8 to this.
I see the BOM request 350mm rods, when Anet A8 has 345mm ones.

How realistic is it to use original Anet A8 parts to do your Piper 2 printer ?

It is very realistic. Your max print bed size is defined by rods size. For the length 345 mm your max print bed size will be 245x245mm.

Is there any reason to go for 8mm rods instead of using conduit as the x rods?

The carriage is lighter with rods. Construction with conduit pipes and ball bearings will be larger. It will cause some effects like the increased distance between belts, what will cause increased racking movements of the carriage. I am in process of testing PTFE tube bearings (idea from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3056913) on conduit pipes, so I may return to conduits on X and Y for this printer.

Piper 2 Alternate Z Roller (Printed Linear Bushing)

this is a very nice design, with the symmetrical gantry and the stationary bed, it is inspiring me to create an aluminum version of this :)

Thank you, David. In general, cylindrical bodies, like pipes, are stronger against bending forces, but if you feel that extrusions will bring value go for it :)

yep! i would love to use pipes too, but I want to use MGN rails, which are for extrusions. although, I just thought of a way to use them on piper. hm..

I don't see where to attach the endstops. Can you add a photo or indicate in the assembly instructions where to attach them?

The picture shows the location of 2 mechanical switches under the right Y carriage to home to the back right corner. You can make it be your 0,0 or MAX, MAX position. Z endstop is located under the Z roller in the same corner. You may use tiny screws to attach switches, I am using a hot glue gun. I am going to post it on the website.

I will add it to instructions.

So I had a few questions. I see it calls for 6 motors on the web-page, I know the XY motion takes 2, the z takes 1 or 2 depending on setup, and the extruder takes 1. So where does number 6 come in? Also, how easy would it be to convert to direct drive?

6 motors not counting extruder motors. 2 for XY plane and 4 for Z.

Also, how easy would it be to convert to direct drive?
It would need a redesign of the X carriage.

Would it be easy, or possible, to use only 2 Z motors? I wouldn't even know how to hook up 4 of them.

I tried it with two standard A8 Z axis steppers. Not enough power to lift the original gantry. Four motors hooked up as two series of two worked well with the Anet A8 V1.5 board I used. Drivers still run at room temp.

Ken, you may need to dial up vref for the stepper driver. Also, did you check https://piper3dprinters.com/?page_id=630? #2 is a bit better option since it is spreading the load between 2 stepper drivers. And one more "also" please join facebook group https://www.facebook.com/groups/258663638022956/ it is easier and faster to communicate there.

I did have 2 motors setup in one of the setups but did not like it as it is very difficult to make adjustments to the horizontal level of carriage. So 4 or 3 leadscrews are more adjustable. I have been connecting 4 motors in series or mixed (parallel +series) schemas. Since some time ago started using CNC shield ($7 for 2 on Amazon), for connection schema check https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?13,830981.

good job on this design

  • extruder part is missing!
    -do you have autoleveling on this ?

Thank you. Extruder should not be missing. I am using my version of GW extruder for Bowden feed. Please check my website https://piper3dprinters.com for instructions and extruder mounting. I did not get to autoleveling yet, with the stationary bed it is a lesser problem (at least for me). But there are some ideas in the air to relevel gantry if one side (or corner) will creep. Just need hardware and software solution to drive Z motors independently.

thanks for your reply
look at the voron 2 for your solution about hardware and firmware

where does the 4 nuts (threded rod) connect on tube (part missing ?)

Thank you fabrice for catching this. Just added "gantry-Z Rod Nut Holder.stl".

I can't wait to build this. I really like the stationary bed. It reminds me of the Voron 2, though it is nice to see some alternative builds to it. This one looks fun and interesting! I do have a question before I start planning it out:

How big do you think I could go before it becomes too unstable?

I'd like to build this big, maybe around 350 mm^3 ... or even 500mm max.

To be safe try 350x350x300mm, your biggest challenge will be finding a bed (even so it is much easier with Piper 2 than Piper 1 due to its stationary design) and 8mm rods 450mm long. 300mm height is limited by the enclosure for electronics if you will use the different solution you may go higher. I was planning to make modification and use 12mm rods instead of 8mm, with 12mm it will be easier to go to 500+ range.

Thanks for the reply. I think I might go with 12mm rods then. For the bed, I plan on getting a MIC-6 tool plate custom cut and having a 110v Keenovo heater stuck underneath it.

As far as the electronics enclosure is concerned, I plan on building an enclosure over the entire printer so I can print ABS and other materials that typically require an enclosure. So instead of all the electronics stashed in that black box, I'm probably going to have it sit on a separate enclosure outside the main enclosure (I don't feel comfortable having the RAMPS, Duet, or whatever motherboard I decide I want to go with inside a heated enclosed area). Sort of like how some printers have a separate enclosure box for their electronics like the CR-10-- I plan on going with a similar configuration.

12mm are not for current design :(. They will need a redesign of the gantry parts.

That's something I can do myself. I would probably end up remixing it anyway since I'd like to integrate a few extra things like a Zesty Nimble for a remote direct drive and a Precision Piezo as my preferred auto bed leveler. Hopefully it makes some kind of sense.

Hi! Nice work on a cheap CoreXY. Can you tell me wich electronics are you using on the machine? Just curious because it seems that you are using 3 motors on the Z axis.

I am actually recommending to use 4 motors on Z. If 3 motors are used then 1 start lead screw will be a better solution, with 4 start lead screw and 3 motors one side creeps :(. Almost everything including electronics is at https://piper3dprinters.com/?page_id=527. I also use 8825 drivers on Z which need to be dialed down to stop overheating. 3 motors I am running in series. 4 motors 2 series in parallel.

Brilliant design and work. Thank you for sharing.

Thinking of building my first printer. I have 3 and I think I might be able to do it now. I tried checking the website for a list of materials that are not printed, like rods and all that. Is it published anywhere?

Thanks again.

Thank you Rouf,

BOM is work in progress it is published at https://piper3dprinters.com/?page_id=527

Very nice design, and having come from building an MPCNC as well and modding it to be a complete boxed build, I would do the same with this printer.

The only printed parts would be anything related to the axis movements. The vertical Z axis pipes could then have simple mounting feet that you could screw into place in the 18mm MDF box. This keeps everything square and very ridgid. An obvious advantage is less corners and joiners to print.

In saying that, well done on this work, I love what you have designed.

Ciaran, thank you. You almost completely described my ideas for Piper 3 :)

Pleasure. Thank you for your efforts in the 3d space. Have a look at my profile send you will get an idea of what I did with the mpcnc.