I made a lighted base for the bulbasaur model. The model has to be sized up 150% from the base STL file. This is important or the feet will not line up with the LEDs in the base. You will need to print four of the nut brackets. I used 8mm long M3 screws and nuts. The nuts should be glued in place in the recessed nut bracket, and then the nut bracket is glued into the 'Bulby Base Top'. There are channels for the brackets to perfectly fit to eliminate any guess work. I used two 5mm and one 10mm LED with 150 Ohm resistors powered by a 3V AA battery pack. The LEDs just slide right into the built in holders. I uploaded a base for Squirtle, and the window for the power switch is on the left side instead of the right. The base plates are interchangeable, so you can use whichever one your battery pack fits. I used some clear grip feet on the bottom so it will be off the screws and switch, and it won't slide around.
I used four perimeters and zero infill to make it hollow. Ensure you have the 'Ensure vertical shell thickness' setting on to prevent printing problems behind the head or on its back.
I used XTC-3D to coat the model to give it a nice glossy finish that is smooth to the touch.Be careful when getting between the legs because it will get on the bottom of the feet. I coated it in sections to keep the feet from sticking to drying surface.
For the pedestal, I sanded the top part to remove any high points and surface textures from printing. I applied a thin coat of XTC-3D, sanded it, and applied a thick layer of epoxy. Following the epoxy was two coats of filler primer and wet sanding. Next was two coats of black paint finished with three coats of gloss clear coat enamel.