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Prop Gun | Revolver - Single Action

by Steiner3D Jul 18, 2018
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Whats with the zip?
No real name just a number, no picture, no text files.

it wont let me print without support can i just add it?

What part are you talking about in particular? Unfortunately not all of them are oriented correctly by default, but if you flip them onto the correct surfaces as designed, no supports should be needed.

Comments deleted.

The "no text" option refers to the caliber text on the other side of the barrel. Considering the countless hours I have put into designing this and publishing it for free, you should be happy for rewarding me with a print that has my name on it. Take it or leave it.

im glad your name is there it makes it look like that is the brand of the gun company and honestly Steiner is a cool brand name!

Thank you, friend, for the archives. His design is perfect everything fits very well. Please do more designs of other weapons, I want to print all that you do ok. Thank you now I'm ready to make some assaults here in Brazil. (Joking heheheeh)

You even made the label of the stand, and in multicolor too, thats awesome! Did you have problems to make the sights fit, as theyre missing? I see this quite often actually

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What is the Revolver Barrel Stubby? I dont see it on the schematics. Beautiful design. Im looking forward to printing this. Too cool not to!

Thanks man, looking forward to see your make! The stubby barrel was requested by some guy who wanted a really short barrel, and this was the shortest I could create while keeping the other parts unchanged. Just long enough to fit the front sight. Though I never saw the make and neither did I print it myself...cuz, you know...size matters. I only print the big barrels ;D

Nevermind, read all the notes this time! I have a thread tap so i will use that hahaha

Hahah thats great! Another question.... I see on the handle, the handle grips get bolted from both sides?! How are you doing that? Threaded inserts in the handle itself or are you only putting bolts through one side and nuts on the other side?

The screws simply only reach to half of the grip thickness each. Thats it, haha

Still do not see the honeycomb sides for the stand? would it be possible to get those. They really make a cool stand!!

Of course the project went smoothly, thats what I designed it for. But good to hear! As for the honeycomb stand, there is no model for that. I used a trick with Slic3r. Simply choose any Infill you want and select zero top and bottom layers. Then you can directly see the Infill pattern. I needed to play a little with the Infill angle, though, because you certainly dont want the parts that are holding the Gun printed in the air with no material under them. When you try, you will know what I mean.

Project went very smoothly

I was looking for the honeycomb sides for the stand in the files? I must have overlooked them

Two issues:

1) I am having fitment issues with the main body and the body cover. Just below the hammer pivot, there's a small square (with one corner rounded) peg on the body, that inserts into the body cover. But the peg also has a triangular area attached to it. Because the triangular area tapers from the top of the peg, it does not fit into the body cover properly. Sure, a little filing will clean it up. But, if you're making new changes, that'd be one to add.

2) Looking at the assembly diagram. It is not legible. May I suggest a text file with all the part number/name in addition to the drawing. I cannot read the drawing to determine the various ST#x# screws needed for assembly.

Question... any chance we'll see a 44 magnum model 29? Dirty Harry needs some props.....

1) Thanks for pointing that out, never noticed that issue! It did not cause me any problems at both of my prints, interestingly, but looking at the CAD files I isntantly knew what you were talking about. It is fixed now!

2) This is by far the most frequently requested thing. The fun fact here is, that there was a link to the Full-Res Drawing in the description since day 1 when I uploaded the Revolver. I hoped adding an image referencing to the description would fix this, but some still overlook that. Now its fool proof, because I added clear text to the drawing preview.

Regarding Dirty Harry, that depends on how accurate you want the model to be. The general shape should be easy to change, but I will certainly not touch functional stuff like the Cylinder-Flip-Switch. Also I have no way of getting all the dimensions to create an accurate model.

I found the high-res file. Thank-you.

0.4 nozzle, 0.2mm print, 3 layers everywhere, 15% fast honeycomb infill.
Spring from pen
Thanks for nice model!

No problem! Looks pretty good for black only!

Hi. Can you send me a instruction in better quality?

Hello and thank you for the brilliant STL. I tried with two colors and printed the handle in wood. Greetings from Austria and thanks again.

Hey. Has anyone tried to print completely from the ABS?

sl_body goes into sl_button very hard, so hard i have to break it to make it come out. Printed in 0.2 mm layer 80mm/s perimeter and 20mm/s other perimeter. Any suggestion?

You know what time it is...

Hello, I am a distant friend from China. I am very glad to see your work. I like your work very much and I want to make the same work.May I refer to your drawing?Thanks

Hello, I am a distant friend from China. I am very glad to see your work. I like your work very much and I want to make the same work.May I refer to your drawing?Thanks

My redneck brothers, upon hearing I had a 3D printer, only had one request: "Print one a them plastic guns for me."

Now that made me laugh! :-D

yes brother- one them guns from that gimmic of a printer

Hello, projet enfin terminé merci au concepteur pour le coup de main ;)

Hé, vous devriez essayer d’imprimer la chose que j’ai faite et qui s'appelle buff skull demon ://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3689769

buff skull demon
by duck778

Looks good, you printed the complete package! But did the Hammer get stuck? Looks like an undefined position to me.

cool model. it would be awesome if you put the color each file should be printed at. takes a long time to work out what parts are and what colour they should be printed at.

With the cool model comes a cool assembly drawing, that has even more information on it than you just asked for ;)

can u make a barrel with just only 2.5 inch like astra terminator thak u so much

Done! Just look for Revolver_Barrel_Stubby.stl . 2.6 inches is the shortest I could achieve with the other parts staying the same. Remember to print it upside down so no supports are necessary. Also you will need to print the Bicolor_tip for the front sight, the standard one is too long and wont fit.
Share the make when you are done, I will not print it myself and I am curious what it looks like!

so after all the revisions, does it actually fire?

Hell no.
But I can make that happen for you! If you think putting a 44.Magnum into a plastic gun is a good idea, go ahead.
Oh, and dont forget to capture it on video when you try it! Your friends will beg you to show them how your hand exploded!

ill try it......right after you try to print my Athenian Trireme. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3491985

Athenian Trireme

Seems like an equally good idea. You have a deal, lets do this! lol

This is hilarious, why do you even upload a thing with just one instruction: DO NOT PRINT :D

Hi excellent work but i think there is a missing parts or i did not find it . On the the top of the body near the cylender Guard #15 there is a part who goes there and it is not on the shema too. Am i right or not ?
Tell me where i can find it . Thank you for this excellet work

Yes this is the part i am talking about i can't find it on stl i look all the parts and did not see that one.

Its called revolver_kimme.stl and is among all the other files...

If you mean the rear part of the sights, that is #14. Otherwise you have to give more information on your issue

For those stuck with the antiquated standard system in the USA.
ST4,2 is very close to #8 sheet metal screws, buy 1 inch and cut to the needed mm length
ST2,9 is very close to #4 sheet metal screws, buy 1/2 inch and cut to the needed mm length

I'm going to attempt this on the mono price mini 3d printer.


Yes, print very slow. As slow as youre willing to accept. The quality and the fit of all the parts depends on how slow you print. I printed 15 to 20mm as my speed and my stuff came out perfect

OK I am in to try this on a Form 2. Gray body, extended barrel, brass painted rounds. Will try the grips with wood-like filling on an Ultimaker 2. I hope I can find the proper screws somewhere. If I cannot get the screws anywhere, might I ask you to send me a set by mail to the Czech Republic - bill is on me of coarse, sir.

Sounds like a good plan! Finding the screws should be easier since I updated the parts list with their standardized descriptions. Otherwise, sendig a letter with screws from Austria to the Czech Rep should not be an issue!

Keep in mind that the tolerances on the parts are quite tight. I printed mine with 20mm/s outer perimeter speed, 25mm/s for other perimeters and 30mm/s for infill. When you plan on speeding things up to save on print time, you can expect increased amount of necessary afterwork on the parts to get everything working....

Have fun!

OK I am done printing (took pretty long at 25 microns but it looks very smooth). Now there will be a long time of post processing - I must go to Croatia (my second home) in the mean time - everything must look nice and shiny! Please contact me about the screws at tomas.repisky@seznam.cz - I will pay for them to get the correct ones - I am not very handy at this because I am on a wheelchair so visiting a place like Hornbach or Bauhaus is a real pain in the behind (I bet you must know those stores if you live in Austria). Do you have PayPal? I can send you some pictures of the prints if you like - but they are not yet proccessed. I must remove the supports and sand everything down to make it nice and clean. On a Form 2 it is a bit different then standard filament printers but it gets more detailed and realistic.
Have a nice day, sir!

someone would have the "cylinder_guard" file before the updates ? because I have a problem with this piece, it looks like the file and corrupts

sorry, i speak bad english...

Thank you for posting your question in english!

Sorry, but the "cylinder_guard" has not changed in any update so far. It may be a problem with Cura. But try to rotate it around the axis and use different printing settings. Then it may work...

How does cylinder rotate on real guns? Ball bearings? I noticed that with this design with a screw the cylinder is moving to the right

On really modern and expensive models probably. For conventional models, no they dont use bearings. However, as they are made from machined metals it is much easier and more reliable to have tight tolerances, which allow for a much tighter sit while the friction stays low.

I could make the parts sit tighter, but even now there are many people complaining the parts dont fit, because not all printers print at the same quality. I think much of the movement origins from the lower screw, because here the guiding hole is very short. I thought about making use of the screw head to increase guidance without changing the looks of the gun too much. Yet again, many people dont buy the industry standard screws with cylindrical head and inner hexagon, so they would not benefit from that change.

With my latest print I used slower speeds, like 40, and I gotta say it makes print a whole lot more precise. So people who complain about parts not fitting should definitely try this out.
Well the issue I'm having is that when cylinder is rotating, it's actually screwing itself out, so then after a couple of rotations I have to screw it in again so that it can function properly again. And actually I don't understand why you are not having any similar issues, because I mean that's how screws work haha. Or then I'm doing something wrong

Haha sure. Actually when i print things that i want to look and work good, I print them at 20 mm/s for outer perimeters, 25 for other perimeters and 30 for infill. I know that is slow, but my printer is idle the most time anyways, so there is no reason for me to sacrifice quality for a faster print. That would explain why many people have issues with it, and why the prettier makes tend to work more often!
Yeah, that must be an issue on your side. Either you are having to much friction in the lever, which should only guide the screw with low resistance, or your screw is not holding well in the cylinder. You could try applying glue to the thread. Even in the industry this is commonly used to secure screws in place. Though they use special thread glue, obviously. When you give the cylinder a nice spin when it is outside the gun, the friction between screw and cylinder should be so low that it keeps spinning for like 2 seconds. Then everything is fine! Hope that helps you!

Salut et merci pour le partage, j'ai commencé l'impression de cette adorable jouet, lors des premier fichier, tout c'est bien passé, par contre quand je veux imprimer le 3ieme fichier " cylinder_guard " j'ai un gros soucis, l'imprimante commence par un minuscule rond et au bout de quelques secondes elle imprime dans le vide...j'ai réessayer et impossible, on dirait qu'il y a un soucis avec le fichier mais pourtant dans Cura il apparaît normalement et je précise que je n'ai pas eu de soucis avec les premières pièces, tu a une idée ???

Where did you find the screws?

Thank you for posting this, I'm in the process of creating a prop gun and was wondering about the mechanism for a simple trigger assembly.
I appreciate the work you engineered into this, I'll have to mod the mechanism to fit into my design but this is great work.

do you by chance have a link for the spring? I have all the screws but cannot source a spring! This is a fantastic design - thanks

Where did you find the screws at?

Andy got it, I am quite sure that most pens around the world use highly similar springs. Disassemble some and choose the one that fits best.

Good spring from ballpoint pens or automatic pencils :)

Excellent work! Thank you very much for the model :)
Now small details are being printed, but all the mechanisms are ready and in general work, only need to adjust a little. After that I plan to paint the barrel, body and cylinder in matt chrome :)
But I have a question: on the assembly drawing some parts from the ABS and some PLA. Does the size of the parts provide for different shrinkage of these plastics?

Sounds great, bet it will look awesome!
Regarding the material, I axplained that in the description. I used ABS for the parts with leaf springs, as ABS can be bent further before it overstretches and bends permanently, compared to PLA. However, many have printed all in PLA and claimed that it works fine. I think its a matter of longevity.

Mine isn't working (the cylinder rotation is innacurate and hard)

Mine isn't working (the cylinder rotation is innacurate and hard)

Is the cylinder itself spinning easily? When it is flipped outside and you give it a spin with your hand, it should turn for at least 1,5 to 2 seconds. Otherwise the mounting screw sits too tight or the hole in the lever needs some afterwork.

Hi, Thanks for the model, It would be awesome to be able to print in a size that would allow to place the "8 shot or 12 shot cap gun refills" this would be fun to play outside with the kids. Awesome model, thanks...

Thanks, I appreciate it!
Changing the size would be one thing. However, the mechanics to set these shots off would be missing. And if I adapt the model to that, I wouldnt see any point in printing this thing anymore. Instead everyone could simply go into the next toy store and buy one of those toy guns. Currently this model is rather unique and not obtainable in easy ways other than printing.

In one word: AMAZING!
In twoo words: THANK YOU!
In three words: I LOVE IT!
First print (20 hours), first assembly (temporary screws), first try and IT WORKS!
I will push photos when I will finish it.
I have four sons, I will print it five times :)

Haha you are crazy man, I love it! :D
Cant wait to see them, thats going to be a lot of Revolvers in one picture!
Guys like you make my day ;)

Hi, Is it possible to paint & varnish the parts, mainly the moving parts? Is there enough tolerance to do that?

I would say this depends on your printer. Some people claim that the parts are too tight even without paint, but I am sure that their printers are simply not perfectly calibrated.

But well, the tolerances are indeed quite tight to improve the overall quality and feeling of the Revolver. I guess you will not paint the inner parts, though. And I would just leave the surfaces where the Lever, body, and cylinder are touching, free from paint. Then it can spin properly. Paint on ammo and inside of cylinder will probably be an issue, you should print the ammo slightly smaller. If the hammer sits too tight when painted, you could try screwing the cover onto the body less tightly.

Report back when you have tried, you got me curious. But some people have painted it already, so...

Due to POPULAR demand there is now a better option than walking into the hardware store with calipers to get the "Sheet Metal" screws you need. I have looked up the industry standard for these screws to include the correct definitions in the assembly drawing, and there you go, ordering them is much easier now! The lenghts can still be kinda problematic though, as there are not many different lengths available and the used threads are often quite short, so you will have to cut some of them yourself.

It's awesome,IT took a week,but it's not as good an yours!

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I made it. But man, please specify the screw parameters. It's really difficult to find something withtout knowing what exactly do you need.
This stars and brackets in description are useless. Only two screws was ok M5x50 and M5x30
Gun is really nice, I like it. Greate progect, hope to see something like this from you in future. Thank you!

If you go into the store and say "I want screws meant for Sheet Metal/Plastic/Wood with this diameter and this length!" I am 99% sure they would have no problem to give you the screws you desire...

But nevermind, drawing update is done! All screws are now labeled according to the industry standard definitions.

where did you get your screws from? i cant find all of them, especially marked in P

Thats because its no standardized labeling. But check the new drawing, the definitions are now according to ISO 7049 and you will have a much easier time finding the right ones.

thanks! drawing from stlf files is older one, did not look for newest here

The speed loader parts are too tight. I cant disassemble it...

Would everything still work correctly if I printed the ABS parts in PLA? i don't have any ABS currently and I've heard its pretty hard to print with so I've kinda stayed away from it

Many people have made it fully from PLA and so far nobody said it broke, so you are good to go. Some parts probably cannot hold the tension as long as ABS would, but I am talking about durations of many days or weeks when I say that. And yeah, printing PLA is soooo much more fun!

I'm Having An Issue With the Hammer rotator where the spring slips off of the nose because the nose is not long enough. Can you help me with this?

Are you talking about the cone-shaped "nose" which is meant to keep the pen-spring in place? In this case I would say the spring is too short, not the nose. If you dont have a longer spring, you could probably put some small discs into the hole in the body where the spring is meant to go, so the hole is less deep and the spring sticks further out.

Well actually i think its too big and there is too much pressure so it slips off (it is still from a pen though just might be too big)

I have cutted spring a little. This helped.

Anyone have a good online source to buy the hardware needed? Both big box stores near me don't carry any of the metric m5 screws :(

Hi Steiner3D a great great design thanks so much, I always wanted a revolver gun ever since that game Metal Gear Solid. I'm about 90% done however I am having a hard time with the revolver cylinder part, could you show some pictures as how you make it spin smoothly, do I need to add some bearings inside the cylinder or how did you do it? Once again excellent design and time putting into this.

Alright, fixing this is easy. It is very likely that the Lever-arm has a hole (for the screw) which is a little too small. Take a drill which is NOT larger than the original hole, but 0,5 or 1,0mm smaller than the hole and carefully grind the hole larger by pressing the drill against the inner wall of the hole while turning the Lever-arm, to make sure your hole stays circular and does not get egg-shaped. Then try to slide the screw through this hole. Repeat this process until the screw can be moved in and out smoothly, while the hole is still small enough to prevent the screw from wiggling around. Then you just have to make sure you dont screw the Lever-arm to the cylinder too tight. When the screw is almost fully inserted, turn the screw another 15° and try to spin it until you feel that it does not turn as easy as before. Then just turn the screw 15° out again and tadaa! You have a perfectly assembled cylinder.
At least this is the solution for the cylinder spinning itself, or are you talking about the cylinder rotating once you pull the hammer?

Hi mate I finally figured it out thank you, it spins good now. In the future are you going to release more hand guns ? if you have time could you please make the ocelot revolver gun from Metal Gear Solid please.

Hi, I'm asking you, layer 0.15 and what nozzle do you use, 0.2?

nope, 0.4mm nozzle. Great combo of time and quality


Would printing plastic screws work for this? I would assume most would but I'm not sure if any of them are under some kind of load that would cause them to break.

I think the two metric screws would just snap off along the layers, unless you are acting really careful. The others would not really work either, as the model does not have threads by default, and cutting threads into plastic with plastic, well, not gonna work :D But you could try printing cylinders (like screws with heads but no thread) that you simply press into the holes. If they fit tightly, you will not need screws there.

Cool maybe I'll try that if it's to hard to find screws. I have a request for a 3d printed (non-functional) gun from a friend that works for the police department as a forensic scientist. They would love to have one for their collection after finding a broken lower receiver in their buy-back program.

Thank you. This will be by far the hardest thing my anet printer will make so far. How much time do you have designing this?

No problem, looking forward to your make! :)
From scratch to first printed prototype around 4 weeks. More like 6 to 8 weeks until I was happy with reliability and handling.

Is there a chance you sell these or would sell one?

Depends on what you are willing to spend... ;)

hey~what kind of software do you design it? can i get the "revolver_body" part , cuz alter STL files are inconvenient . thinks a lot XD.

I cant seem to find many screws that are the exact size for P4x7, P4x13 without them costing a fortune. If I were to use screws that were 1mm shorter, would that be alright you think?

I had a box of P4x20 and with a metal saw I cut them down to the length I needed. But use unmodified screws to cut the threads, once the tip is flat they fit well into existing threads but they are not good at cutting their own thread anymore. For some screws you can use way shorter lengths, but those with a short thread are crucial and thread length should be kept.

I'm reading the assembly diagram and I had a question. What do the "P" screws mean? I'm only familiar with "M" and the number indicating the length of the screw.

You are right, "P" is not a standardized declaration. I chose "P" as short for "Plastic", because such screws which cut their own thread are usually screwed into plastics, wood, or sheetmetal. I have added a note in brackets to the "What you need" section of the description to clarify this for the future.

Awesome design!!! Would it be possible for me to alter the appearance? I'm asking because my son is asking
me for a revolver from a video game and this would be a pretty good base.

Sure, as long as you don't repost it, go ahead! I assume you have the right software to alter STL files. When you finish your altered design I would love to see it!

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I have a question - look at the image, is all this ok ?

I the Trigger place correct ?

No no, the leaf spring of the trigger should be almost straight. it must be inserted into the little chamber under the rightmost screw of the cover (as shown in my picture jsut before the assembly-drawing-preview where the parts are highlighted in red).

And the little leaf spring on the top of the Hammer-Rotator just above the nose (Part that goes up and down linearly) seems to be deformed. It should point straight up, while yours is bent to the right.

Good luck!

f。。king awsome!very nice job,i wish you can design full scal Desert eagle next time。

Thanks man! But sorry, this is not gonna happen. I will stick to manually operated things. Apart from shooting, this Revolver has everything from a real model. As a Desert Eagle and other semi-auto pistols use the gas from the shots to reload the next shot, making such a model would not carry the true spirit of the real gun, unlike the Revolver.
Instead I am thinking about a Model1887, a Double Barrel, or a Bolt Action mechanism. But I am not yet working on these and I will not guarantee that I will ever make these.

Can I print this on my Flashforge finder? it’s build volume is 140mm x 140mm x 140mm. Thanks! ;)

I am sorry, but even the smaller body is 137x164. You could try to scale it down, but this will make things more complicated as screws will not fit anymore and tolerances are getting narrower. People have done that before, but they also mentioned these exact difficulties.

Thanks for your detailed response but I turns out I thought the build plate was 140mm x 140mm x 140mm but I just measured it and it’s 160mm x 160mm x 160mm and when I print diagonally I can squeeze out about 50mm out of the extra space in the corners thanks again!

could you possibly provide links to purchase the screws online? or for that matter, could anyone provide a source? I have been having the hardest time finding the screws so any help would be greatly appreciated.

If I were you I would go to the local hardware store and find some screws that fit it’s probably a lot faster and easier that trying to find these screws online

I don't know how to get Metric screws in Murica or UK, but there should be a way to get them. For the plastic screws, the tolerances are not so tight there. Maybee you can find your imperial equivalents by converting the units and see whats the outcome.

You can get metric screws pretty much anywhere in the UK. It's harder to find imperial screws than metric

Morning just had a quick observation. i have now tried 2 times to print the body once with pla at 15% and once with petg at 20% the print is fine turns out amazing only issue i have is when i go to try to put the cocking mechanism on the pin it snaps the pin off. i wish that the pin went farther down into the print instead of just the upper layer. It would give it more support. As of now it prints up makes a base to print that pin on then prints it, not very good support for an area that will take many beatings. im going to try to throw it in blender and see if i can extrude that pin down into the body of the part so it prints it lower but with the same height. ill let you know how it works.

Interesting, never had this issue. I printed the body for both revolvers with no problems to this day, and I have dis- and reassembled the internals multiple times when I tuned the parts, but I never managed to snap these pins off.
So you want that under the pin there are more circular shaped perimeters instead of the diagonal solid infill? I think that you have a problem with layer adhesion, how the print-lines are aligned should not matter at all. Unless you are using only one solid top/bottom layer. I would recommend increasing the printing temperature for better layer bonding, but sure, go ahead and try your solution first.
Also for me there was zero force required to put the internals onto these pins, they simply dropped into each other. If this is not the case for you, then you may suffer from over extrusion or severe shrinkage.

And I wish you the best luck for your further printing process, hope everything else turns out great!

Comments deleted.

.44 magnum dummy rounds?

Yep, I made the model as close to the original standards as possible. This means you could also insert the real ammo with nothing to be scared of, the model cant fire anyways.

I'm somewhat new to 3D printing and haven't dived into ABS yet. I noticed some parts list ABS, would those parts hold up OK if they were all in PLA?

From my experience PLA is tougher than ABS. But it is also more brittle. ABS can be bent and twisted further, before it deforms permanently, compared to PLA. Printing everything in PLA will likely make all the spring systems stiffer, which should not be a problem. As the Cylinder stopper is under bending load all the time, PLA may change its shape permanently while ABS does not. Just try it out, I am sure it works, but maybee not as long as with ABS parts.

Thank you for an informative reply. Been digging around for Christmas ideas using my 3D printer and have a Uncle who is big into guns so this amazing project you've built seems perfect :)

Thx, Great Great Job! Amazing, i just got some problems with cylinder rotator, very hard to fit, and now i'm not able to fit the korn. I hope you soon release a glock or similar :D

My cylinder rotator doesn't fit either. I wonder if it will work to print at 98% or something?

I have used an hammer and some soap to fix it

Thank you Steiner3D! Great project and great fitting parts. What we need now is a display stand for it.
Is there one in the making by any chance?

Display stand is done, get ready for printing!

Thank you very much, I appreciate it! Your printing quality is quite good, and I like how the guns parts have a slightly different gray tone.
Actually you are right, then I don't have to lean it onto something all the time. Give me a couple weeks and it should be done!

So I just started 3d printing Novice lvl 2 everything I've tried to print has came out fairly decent cant complain... right up untill now. So I'm going for he classic pistol look. I printed the classic body perfect, printed the extended barrel not happy with it I'm going to do that one again but my main problem is the classic grip that thing has given me hell I tried printing it so many times I lost count after 18 tries... smh I need help

Sounds like a lot of wasted filament. I hope you are printing it as intended, which is to rotate it to stand on the flat bottom of the grip, obviously. Add a finger-wide brim around it and you are good to go! If this is not your problem, you need to be a little more specific about your issue... I put a brim on all parts, as I smoothen the edges with a knife anyways (so it doesnt add more post processing for me), and it adds loads of stability and safety to my prints!

I'm planning on designing my own, so i thought i'd ask a 2 questions since you have experience. Number one, how did you design rotating mechanisms? And Number two How did you design the flip switch and stopper?

You need to be a little more precise, for me "designing" is the entire process from the idea over modeling to printing, troubleshooting and improving until the result is satisfying. Give me more information, then I can give you the knowledge you need.

is this based off a specific revolver?

The only completely original thing here is the ammo. The general shape of the body and the barrel share some similarities with the Ruger Super Redhawk. Cylinder components are more like Colt Python. However, all in all I designed it without access to any dimensions or models. I modeled it instinctively and how I liked it, while some features came up through the restrictions of 3d-printing without supports or using glue. Not sure if any Revolvers use a lever like that to eject the Cylinder.

Wow! You put a lot of work into this thing! Working of printing my pearl white (NGEN) grips now. So far so good. Very nice job!

Thanks man! Many are not aware of the necessary effort.
Looking forward to see your make, I think nobody did silver with white grips yet ;)

Having trouble printing one piece. The Cylinder Flip Switch. Any advice? I've tried straight up and sideways with support.

Just use standard orientation. A brim if it doesnt stick, and proper cooling to get a nice quality on the overhang. What kind of trouble? For me it always worked great.

Got it! The brim and turning the temp down did it. Not used to ABS. This thing is amazing! It workes perfect with zero tuning! What a work of art. It is easily the coolest thing I have ever printed! Thank you so much for such amazing work! (I opted for black grips)

Oh you made it from ABS, now I get it. Yeah, ABS can be really hard to print sometimes, especially with overhangs. Thank you for your kind words! Glad you like it. Maybee you will switch to white grips someday ;)

Can you create /share on reply a cool and optimalized holder?!

you mean a solid piece, completely printed?

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Very nice model!
Can you make more guns please? :)
1:1 assemblys.

une image du plan de montage en HD serais la bienvenue, on voie très mal car image trop petite

Thingiverse limits the resolution of pictures uploaded. I know that, which is why there is a link to the full resolution image in the description since day one of me uploading this thing...

ok je vais regardé ça car j'ai déjà tout imprimer reste a le monté

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what screws did you use

The description has all you need...

to be honest, i would like this can shoot nerf dart....

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my dad wont let me use 2.5 rolls worth of gray PLA
wondering why?

Guess he doesn't like gray then. Try asking him about another color.... ;D

To be precise, ~70m of filament would rather match 0.25 rolls of PLA, at least speaking of 1,75mm 1kg rolls, which hold around 300 meters.

Hey, I'm going to make my own double action model and base it off the gungeon dragun skull for the barrel, but with the research I gathered I still don't know how to make the chamber revolve, like I have the actual piece in mind to make and have seen how it moves but is it kept in by a spring? and where? any help I can get is appreciated

I could try to explain it now, but there is a better way. Printing my thing will help you too, but there is a free "game" (sort of) on steam with the only purpose to disassemble and reassemble real gun models, including various revolvers. There you can analyse how everything works in x-ray vision and in slow motion. I did my research there, its like a library of mechanical problems and solutions! Of course every model costs credits, which take long to earn. Just start up the game once a day to claim your login bonus, this will earn you 11000 credits a week, so in one and a half weeks you will be able to unlock a revolver model. Just search for "World of Guns". I am sure this will help you ;) And good luck with your project!

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

I printed this, pointed it at a congressman, and told him I was going to shoot him.
Now I'm dead.
This is totally your fault.
I'm going to sue Prusa.

moron, this is whats wrong with the USA, go home

You truly are a stupid piece of shit aren't you? Also I'm from the USA...so where is it you want me to go?

According to the very first paragraph of my description, I warned you about consequences and therefor the fault is not on my side, in fact.

Because your Prusa randomly printed a gun, assembled it and forced you to attack the congressman? lol

So the guns the guards are carrying are not 3d-printed toys? Well, the more you know....


Thank you for the quick reply I really appreciate your help. By the look of the files there are 2 style of gun one with a long Barrel and one with short? I am printing the files at the moment . I am going to wrap it up as a kit and print the instruction for him to put together and I will buy screws as well. He loves putting things together and I am sure he will have fun with it or wish I didn't have a 3d printer :) haha. I will upload when it's all together. Oh I will have to buy paint also. Some bits are printed black others yellow hopefully it will be easier to cover with paint I didn't have silver or grey filament. Thank you again have a good day :)

Friendly people deserve friendly treatment! Cool, I am looking forward to see it!

Since I updated this thing, it is sort of customizable. There are two categories of barrels, "long"/"short" and "bottom rail with caliber text"/"no rail no text". This results in four combinations and therefor also four barrel files. They are completely independent from other parts. This is the same for the monocolor sight and bicolor sight (though if you paint it afterwards, this wont matter to you) and the grip style (but you need the classic body to mount the classic grip, obviously). Choose what you think looks best and combine!

Thank you I am having fun printing this that I am doing both long short classic text no text etc.. :)and the print is coming out really good. Can't wait to see the whole thing assembled. Have a great day :)

Hi, I am new to this and I wanted to know the subject of the bullets, are they real or are they printed in 3d, if they are printed in 3D like the STL? forgive ignorance

In my part of the world, there isnt a gun store around every corner. I never thought about that, but if you have access to it you could also insert real ammo, as I reconstructed the STL after the standardized 44Magnum dimensions. But no, mine are printed.

Hi there thank you for sharing this file I am going to print for my son and was wondering if yo can let me know about the screws etc.. so that i can buy before i give it to him. Hoping to hear from you.
Kind Regards
Frankie :)

Hey Frankie, thank you! I bet he will love it. Hopefully his hands are large enough, because this thing is pretty big!

You can see all the screws with their part number on the high-resolution drawing. You will need this for assembly, otherwise you will have a hard time figuring out where to put which screws.... I had a box of 20mm screws which I cut down to the lengths I needed. If you can get the right screws in a store you will save a lot of time. But keep in mind that the thread for screw# 22 and 23 is quite short, so even if you found these screws, the space needed for the tip of the screw will probably take up much of the thread length and the screw will not be able to hold tightly (while a cut screw has a flat tip and uses space more efficiently - but be careful screwing them in, you dont want to cut a new thread everytime you insert a screw in the same hole and therefor damage the part)

Good luck! And if you want the Revolver to work properly, you should definately read the entire description, as I put in all my knowledge about fine tuning this thing after printing.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thanks so much for sharing this, it's pretty awesome. I was just wandering, did you paint the parts or did you use coloured filament? If you did use coloured filament which colour did you use? Gray or silver?

Thanks man, I appreciate it! I used the silver PLA from Prusa which came with the printer. There are some Makes that used gray filament, and in my opinion silver just looks better. However, someone recently posted a Make out of white PLA and later colored it with some really shiny silver. Gives it some chromium kind of look, absolutely gorgeous!

I think yours looks excellent as well. I'll go with silver then

when i took a closer look at the diagram i saw you used ABS for more parts than you mentioned in description. maybe you should add it to the description as well. anyway i just printed a few parts and i am already very excited about it :) today i printed extended barrel and i gotta say it looks awesome. grips are very cool looking as well. I can't wait to put it all together

You are right, I missed the Hammer_Rotator. I corrected it. Haha don't worry, it is more than worth the wait! When I printed the first one I was like "wow, in design phase this did'nt look that big..." and now when I have the one with the extended barrel next to it "this thing is huge! and the other one's so tiny!". I also prefer the extended barrel, it fits better to the overall size of the gun. I am looking forward to see your make!

I bet it's worth the wait! I will print the normal barrel at some point also just to see how it feels as well.. Anyway it was starting to come together real nicely and I would have been done already but I ran into some troubles with my printer, and I'm still trying to figure it out..

Btw I never printed with petg but if I should believe what they say about the material, it seems to be the better choice then abs, don't you think? Anyway I will buy some petg and test it out on this design

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My Compliments, The Design and Implementation is Outstanding. Thanks, Kenny.

Thanks for putting so much value on my work, it means a lot!

I am currently printing a new version with improved internals and an alternative design. When everything works as expected, I will update this thing in the next few days.

the paint guide is very hard to read. Can you include the file, as opposed to a Jpeg ? Excellent model by the way, really looking forward to this one.

I did'nt copy a chapter of the twilight books into the description or some shit like that, it is that long because there is a lot of information in there. Information which will be especially valuable to you if you want to print this thing. Yes, I am aware of the fact, that the picture resolution is scaled down on thingiverse, therefor I immediately included a link to the full-res drawing when i uploaded this thing.

I am not attacking you, but I will not reply nicely to a question which is covered like in the first 10% of my carefully typed thing-description....

Anyways, thanks for appreciating my work and have fun printing! I am looking forward to see your make!

hello everyone, I am new to this site and the 3d printing world. I just recently bought a Creality Ender 3. My question is this and please overlook my blonde moments. Does this thing shoot pla bullets? is it a toy or just a cool conversation piece of art you can play with?

From the description, it's not a working gun. The trigger may pull and the hammer may fall, but it doesn't fire.

Very cool. Printed one. Wood like to have the inventor files to modifies to take claps.

Well, it's high noon somewhere in the world.

This town aint large enough for the two of us....

It is though... towns are like, quite big. You could probably live on different sides of, even quite a small, town and rarely if ever meet each other. Now if it was a Village, that might be too small. If you really really hated each...
oh, I see what you did there :oP #tumbleweed

AWSOME DESIGN!!! IM LOVING IT! Still printing the bullets, but so far is finished <3
The only thing missing for me is a lovely holster ;)

Thanks man! I am looking forward to see your make! I thought the same, but I will not print a holster. This thing deserves a lovely leather holster, nothing less ;)

I may add some stuff in the future, like the option of bicolor ironsights, extended barrel, a speed loader, and a version with classic shape wooden grips.

Maybe you should try to
Turn it into a snapgun
And that you need to put the “snaps” in the bullet

As a kid i would make lego guns that shot lego bricks... I wonder if we could get a model such as this one to fire little plastic PLA bullets or something. Like a nerf gun.


If you downloaded this thing before August 28th of 2018, download the part Body_Top again! There is a notch that was used to fill free space between the Cylinder_Stopper and Body_Top in the very first versions of my model. As the Cylinder_Stopper is wider since I made this thing public here, the notch causes the Body_Top to not fit correctly on the Base, resulting in an ugly gap. If you already printed the Body_Top, just try to cut/grind it away!

Why are there two barrel files? Which one do I print? Don't see any instruction on that. Also, this is too big for my Lulzbot Mini printer. Do you foresee any issues if I downsize everything to 78%?

Check under "Further Information and Tips", if you still don't know I wont help you either. (Note that not all parts have their axis aligned as how they are meant to be printed. Barrel should be printed upside down, for example)

As for your scaling issue: The biggest issue will be the screws. All 4mm screws have holes of 3,3mm in diameter. Scaling it down will shrink the diameter to 2,57mm. You may be good with 3mm screws there, but i cannot guarantee. Drilling the holes later to 3mm is'nt a good idea, since some of the walls are pretty thin and the screws will crack them upon insertion.
The holes for the cylinder screws (M5) are 4,25mm in diameter. This will get you 3,3mm. Drilling them up to 3,5mm may allow you to cut an M4 thread in there and do the thing with M4 screws.
The hole for the 4mm pen spring is 5,5mm in diameter. This will get you 4,3mm. Theoretically it should still work, but I expect problems with spring movement as it gets pretty tight and the printer will not make the hole perfectly round. The hole is also hardly accessible for afterwork. Probably you are lucky to find a smaller spring, or you could try to use lubricant.

Other than trying it out, there is nothing you can do....
And by the way, i hope you have tiny hands obviously :D

Thank you for the reply. I've already started printing at 77%. It's looking very good and not too small. It's a bummer because the only piece that won't fit on my printer is the revolver_body.stl. If the handle could be printed separately and then glued on or something that would make it perfect.

Hard to compare as there is no size reference. When you are done you could take a picture in your hand. Looks good so far.

Thats a reasonable idea, I may pick that one up someday. But it would require even more screws. You know, I am not a fan of glueing at all. I have got the knowledge and the tools to create proper solutions. In my opinion, this is what separates 3d-printing from forming stuff out of play-dooh or cardboard....

Totally agree. Screws are way better. This was an awesome project by the way. Thank you so much for the designs. Can't wait to get it painted. Here's a photo of it printed (minus the tiny spring I need to find). One other question... is there a reason why the body top can't be screwed all the way down in the section right above the trigger?

Does not quite seem ergonomic, but never mind ^^ Looks great though, really looking forward to your paintjob!

Oohh crap, thank you so much for pointing that out. Can't believe you are the first one to notice that obvious mistake. As many parts of my revolver worked on first try after engineering them, the model on my desk is a little different to the one you can download here. I made little improvements that were not worth it for me to print larger parts again, you know. Seems like this is something where I scrambled old and new STL files. At first my Cylinder_Stopper was a little thinner and the notch on the cover filled that open space. As the Stopper is wider now, this notch should not be there at all. I have uploaded the new Body_Top, however it will be the easiest for you to just cut/grind that part away.

I believe this to be a "double action" revolver.

And instead of believing, I know that your beliefs are wrong.

A double action revolver means, that one action of YOU (pulling the trigger) results in two actions done by the REVOLVER, which are cocking the hammer and firing at once. Whereas a single action revolver can only do one thing at a time.

It has the physical appearance of a double action.
Looks like a Smith & Wesson M629.
An excellent model. I thank you for it.

Thanks man!
Yeah, I guess most of the modern Revolvers are double action. But that would have made it way more complex from an engineering standpoint, as it requires some sort of ratchet mechanism. The inside is already pretty crowded with just single action.
And I just love the appearance of these ergonomic synthetic grips. You see them much more rarely compared to classic Revovlers in movies etc.

looks absolutely amazing bud , im going to have to print this for sure

Thanks man, I appreciate it.

Remember to share it once you are done!

This could be a fun way to burn through my roll of magnetic iron PLA and be a great excuse to get some bamboo or wood (I have some fluoro orange TPU already - safety first).

Sounds like it is going to look absolutely awesome! But you are not going to print the entire barrel in glowing orange, are you?!

found on re-read of instructions..

is this a real gun that fires real bullets?

This question tells me, that you did not even read the first 7 god-damn words of the description. You don't deserve the effort and passion I put into this project.

Right? How stupid does he have to be.

not to mention a gun made from plastic and this dude wants to create an explosion in it and keep his bloody hands attached hmm let me think about this for a moment , maybe pmsl Jesus Christ


But I am used to this question. Everyone always asks me "woah dude can it shoot??". Well, if I wanted it to do so, I could easily figure out how to engineer it. BUT, neither am I interested in having a real gun on my shelf, nor do I have the ammo for it, and as you said I sure as hell wont rely on plastic to control that much power...

Can you make something similar for a rubber band gun multi shot? That would be soo cool

where does the pen spring go to ?

Check the full size assembly drawing. The disassembly line of the spring leads to a hole on the inside, below the ironsights. The spring is guided by the little tip on the Hammer-Rotator, part 09. Insert the spring first.

Can you upload a drawing with a better resolution?

You know, checking the description may solve your problems before they occur....

I did not write all of that text for fun, much rather because smart people will make use of it, instead!

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Would you happen to know what parts you printed what color? Love how you built yours and would like to mimic it.

The answer is already there my friend. The material used for every part is noted in the parts list on the assembly drawing. To be able to read it, you will have to follow the link to the full-size picture, which you can find in the introduction ;)

Fun fact, it looks like two tone silver, but actually the parts printed flat on their surfaces seem more shiny, while the cylinder, barrel, etc look darker as you are looking at the side with all the layers. I used silver PLA from prusa, other materials probably look less metallic and dont provide this effect, I cannot tell you. For the grips I used ABS on purpose, because the ABS from IceFilaments I have is much less shiny when printed, compared to my black PLA from Hatchbox. This makes it look more like a synthetic rubber grip, rather than plastic.

To put it in a nutshell, all visible parts are actually only two different materials.

A neon plug for the end of the barrel will better indicate that it is a toy.

This is some incredible work!

I will print this for sure! Thank you so much!

This showed up in a search for leaf springs for my RC truck, and now I have yet another thing to print haha

Great design mate ;)

do you mind if i release a 2 tone remix of the ammo?

I plan on printing at 0.1 resolution and just doing a manual filament change at 32.5 mm

sure, go ahead. I also thought about that, but because of the Color change feature on layer swap of prusa printers, I do not need it myself. Still, I am looking forward to it!

Pretty simple solution! But does it print well? That is a really thin wall right there...

It prints well for me.