MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


FPV Prototank with Turret

by somerandomguy03 Jul 14, 2018
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Here is the exact same ESC for 1/3rd the price... Choose ePacket shipping and you will have them in about 2 weeks (it usually comes faster than what they say it takes)


I just wish there was a small ESC for 3S available!

I just got the ESC's today. 10 days to the US via ePacket!

They work perfect however for reverse you have to return to neutral and pause before it will actually reverse. VERY ANNOYING!
This is crazy tiny, so if you are not very skilled at soldering don't even bother! I had to use a magnifying glass to do it and even then it is NOT EASY.
You first need to take off the heatshrink, then flip it over to the side with all the wires. Go ahead and unsolder the switch to not only get the wires out of the way, but to simplify the wiring. It is not needed, but you do have to bridge the solder points together which will turn it on anytime it is connected to a battery.
Now, look for the arrow that is right between servo wires and where the on/off switch pads are. You can see that it is pointing to 2 very tiny dots of solder that are not connected to each other. All you need to do is bridge these 2 pads together without touching anything else. LOL it's sounds easy, but trust me I had a hard time actually getting a bridge between them. (I usually have the opposite problem!!) I finally got them bridged by putting a tiny drop of solder on the very small tipped soldering iron and letting the flux completely burn off.
Once you get this done carefully inspect to make sure nothing else is bridged and the flux is scraped off as much as possible.
You now have instant reverse!

Comments deleted.

I see the battery used is 7.5 and the esc is 6v, as well as the receiver is 6.5v. Do we need a voltage regulator in there somewhere or can i hook the battery directly to the esc and receiver? I also understand you can power the receiver directly through the esc?

You do not need a voltage regulator. Input voltage for D4r-ii is 3.5-10V. Specs I have for the ESC say it is compatible with 2S LiPo. I’ve been running my setup with no voltage regulator without issues.

Love this design, Great Work !

Would like to see the head a bit more stable without so much wobble, I am sure their are things to be done to mitigate that, or maybe mount some type of small gimbal.
Still this is one Sweet azz Tank !
You have gained yourself a follower !

Thank you! I have actually already addressed the wobble issue in the design / files, but never filmed or posted a new video.

Hello, I want to print it for my students project. But I could not find tank pallets.. Could you help us?
Thanks for all

I'm assuming by "tank pallets" you mean the tracks and track assemblies since I didn't design those. You can find them here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:972768/files

You need:

ProtoTank_Cog.stl (qty 6)
ProtoTank_trackinnerFrame.stl (qty 2)
ProtoTank_TrackOuterFrame.stl (qty 2)

You'll see a bunch of different track segment files, labeled Track_X_Y.stl. The X_Y represent the radius of the pin hole. So Track_1_5.stl has a 1.5mm radius pin hole. This is important because 3D printers print with varying levels of accuracy. You'll want to experiment to determine which size works best for your printer to ensure a nice snug (but not too snug) pin fit. Fortunately, those segments take hardly anytime at all to print, so experimenting with them does not take very long.


does anyone have a version of the tank body where its cut into two pieces, my printer is to small to make that piece

Before I spend time making you some custom parts (which I'm happy to do), I have to ask... do you have enough print area to print the forward and aft top shells?

yes, its just a little and i mean a little to big to fit, and i'am very thankful for you helping me out with this. it means a lot.

Hopefully these work out for you. I thought a little about whether they'd need any feature to hold them to each other, but I decided they don't because the tank track frame pieces they bolt to will hold them together longitudinally.

Thanks for taking the time to help me out.

I'm not able to find the Turnigy Batteries you were using or anything similar in specification. Are you able to provide any recommendations or the dimensions or the battery bay?

Are there any fellow europeans that know where i could buy the parts needed? Amazon doesn't have some of them

I found a lot of the parts on Banggood.com. They should ship to Europe. Hopefully that fills up any missing parts you're looking for.

Comments deleted.

Can Quadcopter ESC's be used for this?

If they are for brushed motors, yes, but most quadcopters (except some of the Tiny Whoops) use brushless.

I printed all parts and now I am going to run this little machine. I use a FlySky FS-ia6 Receiver (PWM) and I dont know how connect it correctly. I use one ESC on Ch1 and the other ESC on Ch2. Now I have the problem, that when I want to run forward, only one side is turning, so that the tank rotates in a circle. Can you explain me - or even send a picture - how you connected your receiver. Do I need additionally change settings in my transmitter (FlySky FS-i6)?
I would be glad, if you can help me!

Raven's response was basically the same as what I would have said. You have to do channel mixing. I don't know how to do that with your Tx (I'm a FrSky Taranis user), but you can probably find a video on YouTube.

You will have to do some channel mixing. So when your stick gets pushed forward, both channels on the receiver go full throttle. I don't know how to do that on a flysky I6. Sorry

So I'm finally getting around to getting the track together on this, and wanted to know what you did to hold the rods in place? Are they big enough that it's just going to be a friction fit and they won't come out? Or will they come out over time? Or is it something I can put a little dab of superglue in and that will hold them in?

After trying a few things, what worked best was installing all the pins and then putting super glue on one end of each pin.

That's what I thought. Thanks!

Comments deleted.

Hello I am loving building this thing so far but I am looking at the pictures as far as the turret construction goes and I am confused. I understand where the servo goes but I am unsure as to how the servo connects to the tilt table. I have not quite figured that out yet. Would you be able to explain that a little better? Or a better picture? It looks like you have a control arm in there. But I'm not sure how it's attached. And I'm completely confused by The One loans screw hole in the tolerance section of the tilt table. Any suggestions?

I believe that is exactly what I'm looking for. if I missed it I apologize, if you just made those specifically for me I appreciate it!

Glad it helped! No need to apologize. If you were confused, surely others have/will be. Always good to clarify the instructions. Let me know if you need any further help!

Where is turret upper detail?

I’m not sure I understand your question. Could you please elaborate?

So only the tracks are printed in black, and all of the rest in grey, is that correct?

All personal preference of course, but yes. I also printed the pan/tilt internal parts in silver, but you can’t see those when assembled.

howdy buddy !!!!

well done on the design of this FPV and awesome instructions, you totally ROCK !!!

LOVE the look of this tank and will be starting to acquire the parts asap !!

Keep up the awesome and inspiring work on these kinda of projects !

Thanks! Let me know of any needed improvements. I'm also starting to think about accessories for this thing. I designed it with that in mind, but keep getting distracted by other projects. Ah, to have more time!

This is fantastic. Great work. I can't wait to print & build. I'm going to do it a 1w VTX and an R9 RX. I can suggest a little flipper arm driven by another servo to flip a crashed quad, set up so you can see what you're doing on cam. Turtle mode sucks on the Tinyhawk haha.

Howdy Dude ! Youre most-welcome, this is so jam-packed full of awesomeness !!!

As you mention it, there is an upgrade ive been thinking about, because this toy can pretty much be logged into at any time providing you know the login details, so im planning on making this for my best friend's Son who has autism, and because its a webcam turret, he will be able to play with this tank and keep an eye on his son at the same time !

So the upgrade, as this tank is pretty much autonomous - i was thinking of making a docking bay/Parking-Bay that all you need to do is drive into it and it will start wirelessly-Charging the Tank !!

Of course as long as its plugged in to the wall, how do you feel about this one ?!!!? :)

Hey man, any thoughts on Rx antenna placement? I was thinking of shooting it up the VTX chimney but might just leave it inside the electronics enclosure. How is it working for you? Thanks!

Yeah, I just shove the Rx antennae into the body. I had plans to make it neater, but, eh, it works. I haven't had any ill effects from sloppy antenna placement. I figure it's a ground based vehicle rather than flying drone, so it's not nearly as critical.

Thanks dude. Yeah I thought the same thing. Guess I should have opted for a D16 receiver instead of D8 since this one doesn't have any failsafe lol. What's the worst that could happen?!

You're welcome! Fun fact, the little grooves in the interior upper surface of the forward shell were originally intended for shoving D4R-ii antennas into. Didn't work out, and FreeCAD is very buggy when it comes to deleting things, so I just left them there. Please let me know if there is anything else I can help with!

Comments deleted.

Steady on. I'm not a professional with an engineering review team with drawing and document checkers backing me. This is a hobby. It gets hobby time from me (which competes with the non-hobby parts of life). Don't forget, this is also supposed to be for fun. I've updated the instructions.

It would be much easier if you just put all the files needed to complete the whole build in one folder and give credit to the original designer for the parts that were not yours. (That's pretty much how a remix works)

All of MY files are posted. People have built the tank. The track assemblies are not my design, and I don’t want to rob timmiclark of likes, downloads, etc. If you want help, let me know, but please don’t be rude.

I was not being rude. Your design is completely different than the original and although it does share some of the same components there is nothing wrong with posting all the files in one location just like most people do when posting a remix. You already gave credit to the original designer so it's all good.

I finally figured out what all was needed between the 2 models. I imported all of the files from both models into Sketchup and assembled a virtual model to figure out what went where, then I got rid of all the extra crap. I am in the middle of remixing your model and fixing quite a few problems that I ran across. Plus I am taking it a lot further with some major upgrades.

RATIONALE FOR RUDE: You started off with a negative statement: "It drives me crazy." Well, I didn't force you to build my contraption here. You could have just started off with, "Hey, where do I get the tracks?" Actually, I believe somebody else in this message board already asked that, and I gladly answered because they weren't rude. I spent my time making myself a tank and then decided to share my design. It's a hobby, not a profession. I'm here for fun, and things aren't going to be perfect. But, I do update the post when there is an error, and do help out other makers.

RATIONALE FOR NOT POSTING TRACKS: The tracks and overall drive assembly are the heart of the tank. Timmiclark put a lot of time into making that work. If I were to just post his files, his profile and model would not gain any traffic. By not posting his files, but pointing to them instead, I'm paying additional gratitude towards him by at least giving his profile and model some traffic. I know I get a smile when I see another download or view. I don't get any money from this, but it's nice to see that people took an interest in something that I created.

Any tips for printing FwdTopShell? Lots of support? I can't work out the best orientation.

Definitely no way to avoid supports. I printed mine, bottom side down. Be sure to keep the supports low density, and be sure you have at least 1 mm horizontal separation between the supports and the shell. My first print had to be scrapped because I left the support density too high (I was using a new-to-me slicer, so missed that setting).

Thanks for the tips! I’ve just finished the bottom half and have all the electronics working. This thing is so much fun and I haven’t even added the camera and servos yet! :)

Glad you are enjoying. Let me know if you think of any design improvements I could add.

I wonder if this could be scaled up... Maybe twice the size? Still really new to 3d printing. I like this design and I'm just trying to come up with a plan for when I print this.

Well, sure in theory you could, but you'd have a lot of things to address:

  1. You'd have to select a more appropriate faster size.
  2. The servo mounting interfaces would no longer be any good.
  3. The motor mounting interfaces for the tracks would no longer be any good.
  4. The camera mounting interface would no longer be any good.

So you could do it, but you'd have to redesign the interfaces for many of the electro-mechanical components.

I ordered 360 servo and posted in Drone Disorder Discord and @Deerfoot suggested using a Slip Ring Flange. I will order soon and report back how it works.

That's great! I was thinking about trying one of those out for the turret pan (yaw). Let me know how it works out. Only thing I can think of to consider is making sure you have sufficient slack in the camera and tilt servo wires to allow that range of motion.

Anyone else have an issue with the turret not being able to filly seat on the servo gear? It is not tall enough on my build.

You're the first with an issue in that area as far as I know from several known builds. Could you post a pic?

I thought I replied back to the post. It was user error. I had to get a screw with a small head and screw through the top to get the horn to pull down on the servo. I am up and running. Right now I have left and right stick controlling left and right speed forward and reverse. I will do some mixes and reprogram to have left stick for physical movement and right stick for camera movement. I am charging up some lipos now.

I am making this now and did not order enough pins. Went to Michael's and in the jewelry making section they have 12 gauge aluminum wire 3 yards for $3.69 which gets you about 77 (78 if really careful). If you use a 40% off coupon you are golden but you would need 4 rolls so the 25% off total would be better.

Where are the parts for between the tracks? The other guys is different and shows 2 and they are shaped different. Yours has 3 in between the tracks but I see no files for it.

Your question is a little vague. Are you asking about the cogs (the wheels that look like gears)? That is ProtoTank_Cog.stl, located here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:972768/files.

If that's not what you are asking about, could you please provide a little more detail? I'm definitely willing to help you out.


Yeah sorry. I was looking at the wrong thing by timmiclark. I'd put that correct link in the description for future peeps!

In reference to the wiring diagram. I wouldn't send power to the rx on both channels. you should on need one set of red and black from the esc's.

That being said and out of the way, this things is AWESOME!!!! I've seen it on the Tiny Track page on FB.

You are correct, only power from one is necessary. That said, I have updated the wiring diagram with your input. Did a little research and it seems it really depends on the ESC/BEC you are using (linear voltage regulators and such...I'm not an EE). Glad you are enjoying it!

any video links of this thing driving?

This is so freaking cool!

Thanks! This was my first big 3D printing design/build project. Pretty happy with the final outcome!

Hey! love it! how do you set up the FC to work with the motors and servos, thanks!

Thanks! No FC is required for this build (unless you want to set up some automation). You can just plug the servos and ESCs right into the RX.

You wouldn’t happen to have a wiring diagram or guide I could follow? Thanks

I don't have one created, but I can. May take me a few days due to other projects, work, non-hobby life stuff, etc, but I wanted to let you know I have seen this request and do intend satisfy it.


I been building fpv planes and quads for a very long time. Just even a simple ms paint will do lol

Wiring diagram and some pics of the underside to help with motor wiring clarification have been added. Let me know if you run into any issues with my diagram.

you are a true gentleman, thank you

Wiring diagram and some pics of the underside to help with motor wiring clarification have been added. Let me know if you run into any issues with my diagram.

Hello, I want to turn Yawmount 180 degrees for this project, because I can't get the pressure right, how do you do that.
thank you.

Not sure I understand your question. What do you mean "can't get the pressure right"? Are you having a problem printing or assembling?

This looks really cool. I want to modify it to use a raspberry pi zero w for wifi and autonomous control. I am wondering if it would be simpler to use servos for the main drive too to simplify the motor control (and maybe make it more precise too). Would the servos you are using for the camera be powerful enough for the tracks?

Also seems like there is some opportunity here to print the main body in one piece... which would eliminate some bolts and the stiffener, etc.

Hello! I"m honestly not sure about servo use for the tracks. I can say that you would have to remix those components from timmiclark's original design to allow you to mount the servos. The servos I am using for the turret are not 360 degree servos, so there is that consideration. That said, you can definitely purchase similar sized servos that rotate 360 degrees. I believe there are several Arduino robotics kits that use the same motors that power the current set up. Perhaps consider Arduino over Pi?

this looks amazing !!! will make one for me/kids :-)

how well does it handle outside?

Handles thick Floridian St Augustine grass well. I do intend to post a video of that soon.

It would be awesome to have a version for the 28byj-48 stepper motors ;)

This is one of the best mini FPV tanks I've seen :) Great job, I'm looking forward to printing it asap :)

Thanks! Looking forward to somebody else building one of these. Definitely feel free to reach out if you have questions or see anything to improve on!

Could you make a parts list for us? I'm not sure how you got the RC controller for the motors. The reference uses Arduino motors which might be a problem?

Looks awesome, got an video of it showing off movements and the turret movements?

Videos added, towards the bottom of the page. The tank is capable of driving in the grass as well, but it was raining outside today. I'll add an outdoor video when the weather is clear.

Comments deleted.