Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

Xtrudor

608 Bearing

by Xtrudor Jul 13, 2018
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Can't wait to print these. Just bought 2 bearings at $3.70 each, then I the ride home I said you dumb ass. Check thingiverse. Lmao
Still have my receipt

Real bearings will still be better though...

I know, but these are just for an item that I printed out. Not real world application.

I plan on using it in the filament guide of my CR10s Pro. I dont really like buying bearings because i always seem to get bad ones.

The best single print bearing I have found so far. Freeing the rollers by twisting them is risky though. Better to push them up and down first, to loosen them up.

Thanks for taking time to comment. Turning both outer and inner rings in opposite directions also works well...

Printed on a Prusa MK3s at .1mm height.

Used a small screw driver to break each bearing free using the small slots. Good design addition! You should document it in the description.

About half of mine had a bearing snap and fall out right away. The weak point is the neck at the center of each hour-glass shaped bearing. Consider making this thicker if you do future versions.

I tried loosening them when printed in trimmer string using the screwdriver slots, didn't end as good for me.

Nice design! I didn't think making a working print-in-place roller bearing in 608 size was possible, but here it is! Very good idea to join the cage in the middle of the rollers. Cage-less roller bearings are worthless and making working cage in this size is no small feat!

Quite demanding to print though. The cage have some really pointy overhangs before the cage pieces are joined in the middle, which combined with the really small footprint of the cage ends easily knocks them over if the pointy overhangs starts to curl up (which they somehow always tend to do). And the bridge where the cage parts is joined is also curved, but at these small dimensions that might not matter. I managed to print it by turning down the small perimeters and outer perimeters speed a lot which reduces up-curling of the overhangs, but even then I saw later that one of the cage ends was a bit misaligned so it probably was knocked loose and later joined to the rest of the case (prusa i3 mk3). It rolls quite well however, probably would roll even better after a 100% successful print.

Yep! That's the critical part of the print, exactly. (This and the first layer.) Printing at 0.2 mm worked well for me. Thanks for your comment. I guess you should add your model as a remix...

That's a strange thing to say... my model is 4 months old and I bumped into yours a couple of days ago. But my model is then definitely a remix of this patent from 1923 https://patents.google.com/patent/US1617613 if you want to see it that way (and yours too). I removed the link to my design, I suppose you felt like I'm trying to promote my design here. Sorry.

I only suggested that you add your thing to the remix section. You don't have to if you don't want to.

Printed and it works great, thx

You're welcome!

I love how many times i failed to print this (seriously) i thought i had my printer dialed right in, i didn't but i do now!

Overall very impressed/happy with this "free" 608 bearing alternative
I have printed this 3 times on my CR-10S @ .15 in PLA. 1st time was w/ a skirt and the first couple of layers smushed together. I switched to a raft for the 2nd (and 3rd) try and it came out much cleaner, but attempting to crack things apart with a screwdriver ended up with some of the tops popping off. 3rd attempt, with more patience has been better, but still not fully releasing.
I suggest to put a slot (or cross) on the bottom face and make a tool to link the top and bottom to break it free (hopefully) without shearing the middle portion of the hourglass.

Thanks for your comment. The "Brim Only on Outside" option of Cura should do the trick. Also pay attention to your first layer parameters and bed leveling. The slots on top of the rollers are provided mostly for convenience. Having to rely on them to force the bearing to break free usually means something went wrong with the print. You should be able to free the bearing simply by twisting and spinning the outer and inner rings with your fingers. Hope this helps.

I got some success with it and I'll retry this with a slightly different first layer (it squished the layers together even though I used the chamfered version). The result is that it frequently shears off at the neck of the rollers.
Just a thought... the compression is on the outer edge and the centre section is purely for guidance. Can the hourglass of the roller be widened to strengthen it a little?
I could try this myself but you seem to have the design mastered.

The problem with widening the hourglass is that there is not enough angle to maintain the rollers in the rails and the rollers tend to get out. Also the bridging part of the inner ring around the hourglass gets very hard to print. I know on paper it should work and it may be worth investigating but believe me I tried so many things to make this work and this is really the best I can do! Thanks for taking time to comment and share your thoughts. I appreciate.

The layer 1 adjustment did wonders by the way

Mostly just the center spins... I printed at .1, didn't need all of the other malarkey. Yes everything moves but its all for show. As long as the center is free you get the same amount of friction reduction.

What malarkey? What show? What's your point? This bearing is intended to roll under a small load.

Horizontal expansion or other slicer settings. It just printed fine at .1 My point is that it would have worked just as well if you made 3 solid rings.

Well I made many variations of 3 solid rings and it doesn't. Glad to see it prints just fine at .1.

Thank you for sharing your design!
It seems like you put a lot of effort into it.
I guess the slits in the top are to break free any sticky rolls, really nice.

I have two questions:

  1. Why do you want to print it with 0% infill? I would have expected to print with 100% infill,as this part should be durable, and maybe even hold some load.

  2. Did you lubricate the bearing at any point? maybe during the print? Or is there any other way to lubricate this bearing?

And if you do not lubricate the bearing, and did not intend it to hold some load, have you thought about just using a plastic cylinder with a polished inside? i would expect it to perform equally well, and if lubricated with e.g. graphite maybe even better.

why do we need to scale x and y to make it the right size, why not just have an STL that is already scaled? Nice to see someone is designing one now though . Thanks

In most cases the printed part get shrink a bit though it is designed to the right size. I also upscale parts a bit to avoid getting tight.

STL is the correct size: ID = 8 mm, OD = 22 mm, W = 7 mm.

I tried printing it and the bottom of the bearing is connected to the outside part, so it can't move. How can I make the bottom of the print better?

i tried several times as well. could not get the bottom layer to not seize up bearing. cool idea though

I added a new chamfered model that may help. Thanks for your feedback.

Are you slicing with Cura? Experiment with the "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion" setting. -0.06 mm worked for me. Also make sure the nozzle is not too close to the bed on first layer.

Would you mind posting a cut-away shot so we can see how this one works?