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creality improved lever feeder (cr10 10s ender 2 3 4 )(UPDATE 05/08/18)

by RaffoSan Jun 29, 2018
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I've used this extruder for a couple of months, but there's one small problem with the design. Everything works great and it's easy to print, but after a while (especially when you leave the filament in the extruder after printing) the printed part starts to deform. The angle changes from 90 degrees (from the bearing to the spring side) to about 110 degrees. This causes way less pressure on the filament. Because of this I've had some prints fail halfway. Could you please redesign the model a bit so that the angle is better supported and is stronger overtime?

hi, thanks for the feedback, but I need to ask few questions, I'm using the original first model and had no changes in more than one year on 3 printers.
which filament have u printed the lever? how much infill? also temperatures of your working room area.
anyway yes I can maybe make it stronger but could be related also on the material.
if on cr10 or ender also the spool position can make problems on extruding at half height , never liked the original one

The lever was printed in both ABS and PLA with almost the same results (right now i'm using one thats printed in PLA+ and the manufacturer says that it should be stronger and its holding up untill now), maybe it depends on my filament and not on your design, thats a possibility of course... If I remember correctly, i printed with 4-5 perimiters with about 50% infill. My room temp is around 20c or 68f degrees. So that shouldnt be an issue. My spool is mounted right in front of the extruder and not on top of the printer itself, so the filament is entering the part almost straight. Thanks for the reply.

interesting infos, I have them simply with two perimeters but I dont think it can be the cause, pla I dont think would stand, tomorrow I'll make tougher version, if is possible to have one or two photos or the bented prints in order to have a better idea on the design changes

As you can see in the picture, the angle has increased a bit (easier to see when compared to 'normal' part), the under extrusion only happened on the last few layers so that shouldnt affect the part. The bridge on the right side is cut because I couldnt remove the nut otherwise. May I also ask you what software you used to design this model?

Hello, I would like to use your model, is it possible to use with screws M3 instead of M4 mentioned in the description?

I can modify you the file for m3 screws tomorrow, if for oyu is ok, at the moment I'm not at home :)

Thank you very much. I await the change.

sorry for the delay, had been busy

Thank you for your help!

Works great,thank you for sharing.

This works great, but man is it uncomfortable to use with stronger spring pressures. It really could use having the edges and corners rounded, and a longer lever arm wouldn't hurt either.

[EDIT] Decided to do it myself. The remix can be found here.

Longer, rounded lever for "Creality Improved Lever Feeder".

Great idea! thank you for sharing.

I took capRev2.stl, leverRev3.stl and nut.stl. Is it correct?

Great idea . It happened that the roller without a slider slipped. After your change, it should be ok. greetings Working exelent . Thenk you

I made one of these as well, using PETG. I didn't have to force fit anything and it works great. Thank you for your creation!

glad u like it and find it useful :)

Thank you. I made one and it works well.

I tried printing the new version. Just one comment - it was not the length of the arm that was the critical change. It was the position of the hole for the screw on that arm. It needed to be shifted outwards. The current (new) version does not appear to do this. A longer arm with the screw in the same position as before makes no difference at all.

so whats wrong on it, my english isn't great I've lost the point :/ , I ahve to shift the screw hole?, do u refer on the screw of the arm or the screw of the bearing?

Where the spring is. And the little part that goes into the top of the spring. That position on the arm is about 1 mm too short - so when I earlier talked about making the arm longer, it was to shift that "hole" above the spring outwards (longer) by about 1 mm.

ok , moved the hole 1mm outer :) thanks for ur patience and feedbacks

oh, that hole , okok, fixing it wight now, there are too many holes LOL

Did you notice any improvement in print quality? :)

It's great design, but as DrBoo mentioned, it would need some improvements. Apparently, I was able to recreate geometry in Autodesk Inventor, and I edited it a little: I've changed placement of filament hole a little bit lower, to line it with hole in extruder housing, added "shelf" as DrBoo suggested and changed length of lever. I will also try to place filament hole at angle, because I'm not able to use PTFE tube feature, because I use anti-backlash nut on my machine, and there is not enough place to use it. I will post remix after I print and test it

Firstly, thank you. I have made one and installed and it's working well. I have a few suggestions which I respectfully request you consider.

1) The arm could be extended by about 1 mm. Specifically, the indent where the arm has a little recess for the 'nut' on top of the spring... this is about 1 mm too "short" and thus the nut sits at a bit of an angle, particularly when you tighten the screw. In other words, it's not a straight line with the screw through to the base of the spring. It's close, but that move would make all the difference.

2) >>> IGNORE THIS I AM WRONG >>> The indent in the arm at the nut position is a different shape to the nut. I'd make it so that it were possible for the nut to sit nicely in this indent, if required. If, for example, you put in a longer/stronger spring and the cap was right up against the arm. It should sit flush. It would also make installation super-easy, as you put the nut into that recess, then tighten the screw.

3) The 'cap' is superfluous, apart from aesthetics - and I could not fit it on. The reason I could not fit it is because of the roller. And the reason the roller is an issue is because it has an inner part, which should be stationary, and an outer part, which ... rolls. In mine, at least, these inner and outer parts are flush - level. So when I try to tighten the cap, it pushes against both parts and stops the roller's free movement. I put in little washers, which does the job nicely - but this makes the washers+roller thicker than the space allowed, and thus I can't put on the cap. So I think there would be a couple of nice additons - a little (say, 0.2 mm) 'shelf' on the base of the lever where the roller sits, and a similar 0.2 mm shelf under the cap where the roller is positioned. This would remove the need for washers and allow the roller to have complete free movement.

4) The screw at the pivot point of the lever is a tight fit. This is counter-active because it reduces the effectiveness of the spring. In fact you want this pivot to have as little friction as possible, to allow the arm to translate the push of the spring without any impediment at all. If the hole were bigger so that the screw had no 'grip' on the lever, and allowed effective free rotation, this would be a big improvement, I think.

5) The PTFE tube is perilously close to the Z leadscrew. There's no reason I can see why it couldn't be moved away 1 or 2 mm and angled just slightly. This would give a nice bit of clearance without affecting the feed at all.

Anyway, really nice design/concept. I do hope you might consider some of these suggestions for a new version.

Could you post your file of the make you did??

The elbow hole slightly larger, the arm extended by 1 mm and shelves placed on the roller upper/lower so that there's no friction at all. Hopefully RaffoSan will add these to this thing because I don't think it would be really fair to publish my own thing for this.

thanks for the regard on not publishing a remix, i'll make all the changes on nex monday, for whoever needs an improved version can download the file posted by drboo, till the date I change the files

just one thing, i can assure u that the cap has a good impact on lever balance, should fit withoput washers with about a 0.5 mm gap to make everithing move just the bearing, but I'll try to chenge it better

hi drboo, thanks for the feedbacks , I really apreciate this kind of comments, in order to improve, I'm not using this mod , cose I'm on a most complete one, so thanks, these days I'm really busy at the beginning of august I'll make what I can to accomplish ur suggestions, I hope u would like to test them :)

Thanks for the reply. I have already modified and printed with two of my suggestions - a 2 mm longer lever - which now aligns the spring very nicely so that the nut doesn't deviate from square, and I have put two little 'shelves' one on the bottom of the cap and one on the top of the lever, where the bearing goes. It works nicely for me, anyway. Attached are some pictures (here, the lever has a 1 mm length increase - not quite enough).

This is amazing. Makes night and day difference in the quality of my extrusion. Thanks.

glad u find it useful :) , I'll be happy if u mind to share your make :D

I posted a make but it is not showing up. Wanted say thanks for posting this, I am really hoping it helps with the under extrusion problem my printer is having. Also wanted to suggest one small change - it can be tough to enough leverage on this so if the arm were longer it would help with that. Really like the design though. Putting it together required a vice since the tolerances are very tight but once it was built it looks really good.

I'll take in mind ur suggestion :) when I can I'll make other versions, I know this model has strict tolerances but works best with them, If I can suggest, u can also try to change the brass gear, isnt really great, the simple brass one u find on alyexpress will work better than creality one, print always few spare parts, cose are useful , happy printing :)

Thanks I will pick one of those up. Regarding the suggestion, it is really minor and not something that changes the function. And it really does function better that stock. I have been fighting with stringing (still present, still investigating) and under extrusion. I tried to re-calibrate extrusion with the new extruder but had some problems with the printer restarting when trying to test, so I just printed this with 100% flow:

That same print was done with similar settings with the stock extruder (left sides) but I had the flow at 114%, and on the right is the first print with your design (100% flow). I think the LH was 0.15. 0.2 and 0.15mm on these from left to right (IIRC). With the new extruder, the print quality is moving in the right direction :D

Randomized Retraction Test (Customizable)
by walter

can u write me ur retraction settings? usually if the steps are right or there are problems the flow is the last thing that is changed, I just change with max 4% for different filament types, on creality the exstruder steps are 93, ahve to say that the right steps are about 95-96, but in my opinion prints better at 93