This is a kerf maker. A tool that is usually used with a table saw to simplify the process of cutting kerfs into wood. Especially helpful, if you want to repeatedly cut kerfs of the same size.
There are a quit a few kerf-makers available here on Thingiverse. Most of them have a similar design and while one maker refers to "the real McCoy" as being the source of inspiration, I found a commercially available one as KM-1 or KM-2 from Bridge City.
Though these designs are sleek and cleverly constructed, I saw - admittedly a pretty tiny - room for improvement: After the first cut you have to turn the kerfmaker bei 180°, then do the second and subsequent cuts → I chose a design that utilizes a big/long handle which makes it very easy to grab and turn the kerfmaker.
What you need
• all five parts printed
• 1 x M6 threaded bar, 57 mm length
• 1 x M6 threaded bar, 33 mm length
• 2 x M6 nut
• 1 x M6 self-locking hex nut
If you want to make bigger kerfs print the "EXTRA WIDE" base and sliding block. You'll then have a maximum kerf width of about 63mm.
How to assemble
• Put a hex nut into the hole on the flipside of the sliding block. Glue it, if it's to loose.
• Glue a hex nut into one hole of the small knob and a self-locking hex nut into the other one.
NB1: The holes have different depths to accommodate the different heights of a normal nut and a self-locking nut (which is, usually, higher).
NB2: The self-locking nuts have a job, namely to lock on the threaded bar. While we do want friction, it might be necessary to get the threaded bar more free-moving by removing some plastic from the inside of the self-locking nut. You will have to experiment.
• Glue the 57 mm threaded bar into the blade distance piece.
• Lay the base on a table and put the small knob into the base. I recommend to let the normal nut face the blade distance piece. Less of the threaded bar to screw thru the self-locking nut.
• Stick the blade distance piece's threaded bar through the hole and start screwing it into the small knob. Go on till you come to the end. Then stop.
• Glue the 33 mm threaded bar into the big knob (handle). Take care that the threaded bar is sticking out 19mm.
• Join the sliding block with the base using the big knob (handle).
You can see my Kerfmaker How to use video on YouTube.
If you print this model and use it, you do this on your own risk. I cannot be held responsible if someone or something gets damaged or injured by using this model.
Print the base upside-down so you won't need support. You can lay blade distance block flat on its long side for easier printing.