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Silverlane

Two door enclosure for Anycubic i3 mega with Ikea Lack tables

by Silverlane Jun 26, 2018
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Hey what is with the PSU? Is it in the Printer or outside of the enclosure? Thanks

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

I didn't change anything on my Anycubic i3 mega, so the PSU is still in the printer. I left a bit of space from the perspex to the upper table so the warm air can exit. I added a extra 80mm fan to get rid of the warm air from inside. No problems with that when the room temperature is below 32°C.

Hi.
Could you tell me what size bolts are used in place of connect legs of top table and extensions on the bottom table? See screenshot please, there is described place in red square.
And how I can connect this extensions with legs of top table?
Thanks

I used these bolts for both: https://www.hornbach.de/shop/JD-Plus-Universalschraube-Senkkopf-m-I-Stern-3x25-mm-galv-verzinkt-gelb-chromatiert-200-Stueck/7818004/artikel.html

To screw the leg extensions I used a normal Torxscrewdriver. The material of the legs is very soft so you don't need much force to get the screws fixed.

See my picture, the nut is too small to be held. Are you sure it's a M3 (k=5.5mm) ?

I'm very sorry for that mistake. I measured the wholes wrong so the wholes ended up beeing k=6.6mm. I corrected that to k=6mm. When I would make it 5.5mm on point it's very likely that the nuts won't fit at all, because of tolerances during the print (from filament, nozzle size etc).

I will make a test print of my own, but at the moment I'm a bit short of free time, one reason it took so long for me to take care of that problem, I'm very sorry for that.

How much filament did it take to Print?

I don't know the exact amount, but I didn't need a whole 1kg spool

Can anyone give me the standard size (non-metric) for these:

56x universal screw 3,0 x 25 (to fix the base at the lower table, the extensions at the legs from upper table and the hinge at the extension)

This is a thing of beauty! I may have a go at this.

How do you deal with ventilation for the printer?
Aren't you risking overheating with it closed in like that?

I've got one 80mm fan in the top table for ventilation and one 40mm fan for the extruder motor. With both of them I have no problems with overheating so far.

Hi ! Where did you plug the additional 80mm fan ?

Thanks for the design by the way :)

I bought a additional 12V/3A power adapter from Amazon

Thanks !

I also searched on the internet and found that some people plug there fan and leds in the empty PSU slot of their Anycubic Mega I3. Considering those are Noctua Fans and the power consumption isn't huge (Mine say input power: 0.72W, at least, it's way lower than leds), do you think it's a good solution ? This way, they will turn on each time the 3D printer is turned on.

That is the reason I'm using a additional PSU. Sometimes I don't need the 80mm fan, printing ABS for example. Then I can just unplug the small PSU and it's not running anymore

Great design, I was wondering on how you are powering and controlling the three pin fan?

i wanna build one but plexiglass is so freaking expensive! 50$ for the whole enclosure >.<

Hey. That is really expensive. I used something that is called "Hobbyglas" here. The material is transparent polystyrene, here it is much cheaper. A plate 2mm thick and 500x500mm is about 5€. Doesn't has to be plexiglass, maybe you'll find a cheaper alternative.

This might sound like I'm daft but what filament type should this be printed with? I'm assuming ABS or PETG for tensile and heat properties? How accurate are prints after shrinkage?

I printed everything with PLA and had no problems with heat or shrinkage.

Thanks for the design :)
Had zero problems with updated 2mm version - was perfect fit for the plexiglass i used.
Some tips though (if you are not handiwork expert) - dont saw the plexiglass - just "cut" it with the sharp construction knife and then break along the cut (youtube can help you). Then one pass with the knife along the edge will make it clean and nice :) Sawing is safer though....but longer with no electric saw :)
No need to measure the holes for anything on the glass- just install it and then drill the holes directly though fixings and holders (as advised in the post BTW, did not notice it Lol) will save you a bunch of time and will be more precise.

On the design itself:
Did double cut for the plexiholders on the walls and made the wall itself a bit higher, so there is no gap at the top at all (or the gap can be kept at the bottom with same sized wall) - will keep more warm air inside. Or Plexiholder can be redesigned to be similar to bottom holders on the legs (have a 2mm gap towards the top, since there is no tension it will be strong enough anyway)
Also to decrease paranoia - will drill a hole right beneath the printer for air intake of PSU and motor drivers coolers (not sure if its needed though). If it will effect the prints too much, can always cover it with anything.

Will try a test run with ABS tomorrow :) maybe post some fotos too when everyhing is finished (doors are still pending..)

Comments deleted.

Very nice design ! But encountered some issues.

Had bought 2mm plex and printed the 2mm version...Unfortunately, the 2mm version is actually 1 mm :(((((

I should have printed the 3mm version for my 2mm plex I guess.....

Will try to cut my plex so that it can fit my prints

That shouldn't have happened. I know that the perspex fits really tight. That was my first model and I didn't know that you should leave at least the size of the nozzle (~0.4mm) as additional space. I designed it exact with 2mm & 3mm.

Really like your design - however I was wondering. Can you make the original model files available? My printer is slightly (1cm!) too tall for the leg extensions as designed because I put squash ball feet on the printer, and I'd like to extend the extensions by another cm so the total clearance is 51cm from the bottom of the feet to the underside of the top table.

Thanks! I uploaded the SketchUp Make 2017 files in seperate Zip-Files. Feel free to customize them as you need them.

Awesome, thank you so much for the quick response, I'll see what I can wrangle in SketchUp :)

Hi!
Excellent job indeed!
Just one question: I plan to use just one lack table that will just sit on top of a bench where the printer is sitting.
Obviously it wont be screwed to the bench.. so I was wondering if I just need to skip the 4 bottom leg extension bases ?

Sorry, was at work. Not that easy, because the door hinge is placed so it's plan with the extension bases. If you have time to wait, I will make a version of the extensions that will work without the bases tomorrow.

That would be great.
However i ve already printed the extensions and screwed them on the table's legs!
What if I just leave the bases in place without screwing them on the bench ? Will that work?

Sure, should work. If you want you can glue them at the extensions, so they don't fly around if you take that enclosure away to work at your printer

Yeah, I think I might just do that!
By the way, I ve used the 3mm thick version but it is still very tight with 3mm thick plexiglass . I had to literally force the glass through the slots.

One more thing, which design software do you use?
I am only just now trying to learn how to use one and it looks like it does take some time to get some decent results..

Yes I know, it's very tight. It was my first design of something ever. Today I know I should leave some more space.

I designed this thing with Sketchup Make. But now I'm using Fusion360, both are free to use for private usage.

OK... So which one would you recommend that I should choose to learn that will let me quickly produce a design ?

Hello, I can not understand) How did you fix the table leg to this detail? Did you use long screws?

Hey. No, I used 30mm long screws and a normal screwdriver that worked for me.

Hey there! Love the setup, but I'm a little bit confused. First, I'm trying to use only a single lack table. With that being said, how do the leg extensions attach to the upper table? I have the 3mm bolts for this, but it seems like I need self tapping screws for it? The table legs appear to be hollow and the fiberboard piece at the bottom seems thin. (The piece that the self tappers would screw into) What am I missing please?!?

Sorry about my late answer. I used self tapping screws for the extensions and sockets. I made a picture of them.

You mean the lack table legs or? Yes, they are hollow, or just filled with corrugated cardboard or something. But the lower end is made of wood? I don't really know. It's quiet soft and I didn't need an electric powered screwdriver or something like that to attach the extensions. They hold strong enough I guess.

When I missed some of your questions, feel free to ask them.

Comments deleted.

Where did you get a bit long enoth to screw the screws in the extender ?

I just used a screwdriver. The wood of the Ikea table is soft enough that I didn't need anything electric powered

I think my question was a bit stupid, I meant that I have special long bits about 10cm and these are not long enough, I thought you had taken something special, because I screwed Torx and this big is about an 8er torx is. I have not considered the possibility that of course there are Phillips screws ^^

I used Torx screws too, but used a Torx screwdriver. I didn't need to buy one because my dad has much utilities :D

Hi, I would like to say THANKS for this great build.
There is one thing that is not quite easy to understand and could lead to misunderstandings like it did in my case.
I had huge problems with the windows. They didn't fit with the holders at all. So I went ahead and cut the glass on one side even more, still problems, no way that this could fit. Then I took another look at the pictures and realized my mistake. The pictures for the windows are upside down. The cutting has to be done at the top, but the in the picture it's at the bottom, even when you've written that it should be the top. Now everything is fine but on side is a little bit ugly because of my cutting.
But still love it! ;-)

How much plastic does it take, any clue? I know it depends on the infill, but any reference is welcome. I'm going to buy a color filament only for this and I wonder if 300g will be enough or I will need the 1kg spool.

I don't have the exact amount. 300g are definitely not enough. My 1kg spool was 3/4 empty. I guess you will need 600-800g

Hello,

How manage you the temperature in the enclosure.

Which temperature makes you he when you print of the ABS

Put you an extraction of air, at the top or down?

thanks

Hey,

I added a 80x80mm fan at the top for extraction of air and I added a 40x40mm fan to the extruder motor.

I'm using this design for the 40mm fan: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2811100

and this for the 80mm fan: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3217633

What do you mean with the temperature for ABS printing? 235/105 °C, but depend on your filament

Anycubic i3 Mega Extruder Kühlung
by FZeimet
80x80 fan mount for IKEA Lack enclosures

Thanks,

For reply.

Which is the temperature max reached in the enclosure during the impression of ABS.

During summer around 36°C

Hi !

Did you printed the leg extensions on their sides or in the same way they will be in the final results ?

I printed them the same way as they will be, with support for the hole

Thanks for you answer man !

I have started printing this ! I hope I have enough of my filament left.

Greetings from France.

You're welcome.

I needed less than 1kg for it, depends on the infill. Hope it works good for you.

Just a small detail :

The inner corner for Leg-extension_rear_right_2mm_Perspex and Base_rear_right_2mm_Perspex do not match.
One of them is rounded while the other is squared. It does not cause any problem (I believe). It's just hurting my artistic sensibility.

There is no problem on the three others extensions...

Hey Shokishy!

I updated the files, all inner corners of the bases and extensions should be sharp now.

Nice Job !

I was going to add that its missing the x2 in the name of the file "Hinge_front_left_bottom_and_rear_right_top" but you alredy corrected it !

Nice work man !

Thank you for that hint. I will take a look at it and rework these not matching edges. I'm very sorry that this happened!

Hi ! I'm curently building the enclosure. It's done. I only need to cut my perpex to size now.

I'm writing this comment to tell you I believe there is a small mistake on the number of universal screw you need. I counted 56 !

18 for the top part (4 for each window holders and 5 for the doors holders)
32 to fixe the extensions to the legs and to fix the guides to the bottom table
6 for the windows holder on the bottom part.

And as you said 8 M3 for the windows and 8 M3 for the doors.

I will post my make in a few days once I have cut the perspex and it's done !

Hi ! I'm curently building the enclosure. It's done. I only need to cut my perpex to size now.

I'm writing this comment to tell you I believe there is a small mistake on the number of universal screw you need. I counted 56 !

18 for the top part (4 for each window holders and 5 for the doors holders)
32 to fixe the extensions to the legs and to fix the guides to the bottom table
6 for the windows holder on the bottom part.

And as you said 8 M3 for the windows and 8 M3 for the doors.

I will post my make in a few days once I have cut the perspex and it's done !

Hey! Thanks for keeping me up to date. And you're right, there are 56 universal screws needed. I will correct that.

Im looking forward to see your make! :)

Hey !

I'm doing some shopping on amazon and I was wondering if a single fan was enough to keep the temperature at reasonable levels inside the enclosure.

I have seen your other make here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3217633/comments

Is it enough ? is the fan for the extruder really needed ?

80x80 fan mount for IKEA Lack enclosures

I had some issues during longer prints with the extruder motor. The motor got so hot, that the filament was getting soft so the gear slipped and I got the "extruder clicking". Since I installed the two fans I don't have that problem anymore.

So maybe you just try it without the extruder fan.

So far I'm satisfied with one fan at the top, but I will get myself a Noctua NF-A8 FLX soon, to replace that no name fan, especially because it's so noisy.

Okay thanks !

I bought a Noctua NF-A8 FLX too for this.

One last question : How did you make the hole in the top table ?

can you please share the perspex dimensions including the positions of the holes? It is really difficult at the country that i live (Laos and I dont know the locals language), to explain to the shop workers to do the custom cut without the plan :(.

Thanks.

Hey. I added pictures of my dimensions, but I can not guarantee that they will fit with your enclosure too.

thanks a lot man. really appreciated for your effort.

Okay, I will do that. But I don't have the time for that until Tuesday, because I have to dismantle the whole enclosure and measure all of it.

Is it possible that the holes to screw legs and hinge together (3mm version) may not fit - are not at the same height?

You mean this holes, I marked in the image? They should absolutely fit. But recognize, that they are only flush at the bottom WITH the socket on the lower table.

Yesss, you're absolutely right. Thanks for your help and your design.

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

You're welcome :)

Comments deleted.

Is there no fixed connection between the upper and the lower desk? No protection against slipping?

The two tables aren't not fixed to each other, that is correct. But they will not slip! On the picture you see a socket and a "leg extension". The socket will be bolted to the lower table and the extension to the legs of the upper table.

The socket has a hump and the extension the correspondingly hole. You can remove the upper table any time without removing some screws, but it fits tight enough, that the upper table will not slip itself.

Thank you for your reply. Didn't saw the hump on the pictures.

No problem :)

Can you please tell me the correct high and width from the glass ?

44,5cm x 49,5cm. But I recommend to build the enclosure and measure it yourself, because of tolerances and if you want some space for air ventilation.

I really like your enclosure! Is it possible to keep the perspex 7cm higher so that the i3 electronics in the bottom of the printer could get/blow air from/to the outside? Thanx!

No, sorry. To do that it would be necessary to redesign the perspex holder

Nice work. Think of building one my self.

is the top easy to remove?
by any chance do you have photo of enclosures with the doors open?

Thanks a lot

Hey, thanks!

The top is very easy to remove. You don't have to remove a single screw, just pull the top table. Both perplex windows and both doors are fixed at the top table.

Tomorrow I will post a photo with opened doors.

No Problem, thanks for the fast replt. Awesome that's easy to remove.

Just ordered my lack tables and getting ready to start this project

Awesome! Wish you success with it. I added three pictures with open doors, sorry about the delay, I was busy the last days. In my case the right door doesn't stay open by itself, I guess the whole construction isn't in balance.

Hi, I also want ro print the 3mm version, but I miss 2 Files such Leg-extension_front_right and Base_front_right. Do you mirror the left part or they are really missing ?

Hey, there is no need for a specific version of front right, because it's the edge where the two doors will be leant. On the pictures you can see the magnets I'm using to hold the door closed.

Great ideas will do the same on mine..

Thanks for your quick answer

Nice work. Is it possible for you to post version for 3 mm perspex? Or maybe you can post solid-model files so i could change it?
I know electron23's version was for 3mm but your is well polished.

3mm version added in a seperate Zip-File

Wow, thank you!

You're welcome. I hope it works well :)

Thanks mate! I will make a 3mm version and upload it, shouldn't be that much work. I'll tell you when it's finished.

Hi, the modifications have been very good for you. a question, what height is it ?, is in case I fit the A8 Anet (45cm)

Hey. the inner height is 50,4cm. The Anycubic i3 mega itself is 46cm high.

So the measures of the Metracrilato would be of 45cm of width by 50.4cm of height with a thickness of 2mm?

Well, I built everything together and then measured the space for the plates. I recommend to do it that way, because the dimensions can vary a bit. I also left 1cm free at the top, so the warm air can escape. You also have to cut a bit at the edges because of the holders. I hope you understand what I mean.

Yes I understand. Better to do the assembly first and then take ls measurements leaving a space in the upper part for the hot air outlet and a little to the sides so they eat the supports.
It would be possible and effective to put a fan that will be activated if it overpasses a certain temperature? Do you know of any project of this kind?
I have already printed my first piece, good
Thank you.

Yeah, I thought about a fan to, but I didn't look for it yet. Yesterday I had a problem with the extruder, it was too hot, so the PLA filament wasn't pushed forward proberly anymore. I installed a fan with heatsink at the extruder and after that it was working fine again. There were no other heat problems yet. It was 36°C warm in the enclosure when the extruder failed.

perfect! Start the project.