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majda107

*MICRO* All In One 3D printer test

by majda107 Jun 24, 2018
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OK, strange question... what would cause the circles to be the wrong size, but nothing else?

When I first bought an Ender-2 I printed this using Cura 4.0 and a modified Ender-3 profile. My very first print, in the supplied PLA. It was as hairy as a yeti (default PLA profile is for a direct drive) but dimensionally perfect. Since then I've gone to Cura 4.21, installed a few upgrades, refined my profile considerably, and now I'm getting a near perfect result - except those circles are about 0.3mm too small, both internally and externally.

It's not under-extrusion as the walls are near enough a constant 2mm thick right the way around. It's also not related to expansion (or, indeed, shrinkage) as all other measurements are correct - the square base measures a perfect 50mm*50mm, the overhangs are 10mm across, the pyramids have a 5mm base, and the bridges are 2mm across. They're also near-enough-I-can't-tell perfectly round, so I doubt it's belts.

I've double-checked the STL I'm using and its dimensions are correct. I even tried another slicer (IdeaMaker) and got identical results.

Is this too much speed (I've gone from 60mm/s to 100mm/s maximum)? Is this too much acceleration (from whatever Cura defaults to to 2,000mm/s²)? Klipper firmware (I started on Marlin 1.1.7)? TL Smoothers (now on X and Y)? Voodoo curse (like my BMG clone)? Help!

Thank you for taking the time to put this print and the guide together, I really appreciate your community support.

Printed on Ender 3, sliced in Cura. Having read the comments here, I see that I missed the "thin walls" setting. There's some fine stringing, and the horizontal text is pretty messy.

As it was printing, I saw some of the layers seemed to get smeared as the next layer was printed. Does that mean the filament didn't have enough time to cool, and I should slow the print speed? Or something else?

Ok stringing and bridging seem to be ok and overall print quality is seems quite ok? The tolerance test could be better and the small text is quite messy. Also the outline on smaller circle is detached. Corners could also be sharper, right? Now they are a bit round. There are also small excess "dots" in side of the print. One last thing is that some of the thinner walls weren't printed, but I think it's just part of the settings in slicer. I'm using Ultimaker Cura.

i can't even print the base with ender 3...

seemed like the nozzle hit the previous layer and went crazy

You are having problems with bed adhesion. Big time. The most likely cause is your bed leveling and distance from nozzle to bed. Jump you youtube and you'll find solutions. (All one process anyhow.) Because of this, the print is lifting, the nozzle is hitting it, and dragging it all over the place.

Thank you!! Yes after properly leveling the bed, adhesion is perfect. I just wasn't paying enough attention on leveling cause i thought it won't have significant impact. was playing around with other parameters instead. always back to the basic :) Thanks again.

now having another problem. nozzle stop extruding mid-print (precisely at layer when starting to print circles, pillars etc). My first guess was the filament not flowing smoothly towards the extruder.

trying this instead. still printing not sure it works.

Hello,
print on stock ender 5 :

  • stringing a lot :-/
  • bad rendering of small font
  • tollerance test totaly failed ...

Do you see more issues ?
I will try your guide in order to fix theses issues.

thnaks a lot !

First of all, don't worry about the extreme angles at the top, they are only there to show how extreme your printer can go with overhangs. Nobody makes it to the top, but you look at the test to see how much overhang you can handle.

It looks messy overall too though, so I think you should check the belt tension, and make sure all the assembly was done right. See if you can find a video to review what you did.

I think you could benefit from an extruder calibration also. Google will help.

Hello,
print on stock ender 5 :

  • stringing a lot :-/
  • bad rendering of small font
  • tollerance test totaly failed ...

Do you see more issues ?
I will try your guide in order to fix theses issues.

thnaks a lot !

Nobody gets perfectly to the tops of the curves, they are intended to show at what angle quality starts to decrease. Just increase your retraction to fight the stringing.

Someone please help me Im using a ender 3 with 1.75mm PLA at 200c and these are my results. I have leveled the bed 100 times and still nothing. The edges are rough circles are more like ovals, lots of spaces, the bridges are barely held together, and much more wrong.

Are your belts tightened properly? If you hold onto the x and y stepper motor pulleys and then try to move things, (The head for x, The Bed for Y), is everything feeling tight in all directions? The bed should not feel sloppy up and down either, the rollers sometimes are loose when shipped to prevent flat spots from forming.

Does your carriage roll smoothly and without wobble? Maybe you could tighten or loosen adjustment screws for rollers. Same for Y axis

Comments deleted.

Hi I just read your guide, very nice. I can tell you why bed PID effects prints. If the bed temperature isn't held stable, the bed will expand and contract as the temperature fluctuates. This results in noticeable artifacts on the print's vertical surfaces. Thomas Sanladerer has a video demonstrating the effect https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sW25xt5E6U&t=176s.

Dumb Question: Do you print this with support? Wondering bc the prints i see looks like they didnt use any support and I thought that was odd

No supports. The overhang test is made to test how far it can go without supports.

Comments deleted.

What should I take from it if the left overhang pillar, the 15, 30, 45, one just comes off the base? so it printed up to 45 perfectly but then just came off and ended up being around the right pillar. Other than that it has printed quite perfectly.

Mine did that too. Then I installed the Creawesome settings in Cura and it was much much better. The first failed print was stock settings for E3 in Cura. The Creawesome did the overhangs, bridging, everything printed better. I'm a couple mm short on scale but I don't think that's due to the settings. Then I printed a Benchy but it knocked the little boat off the bed at around 70%. I have been printing at 60 C but the Creawsome was set to 50 so I am trying again at 60 C.

It's not bad! The stringing could be helped by increasing retraction, and I wonder if the belts are the correct tightness, since there is a bit of visible 'wobble' in the vertical posts, but it's doing really nice on the overhang tests. Maybe it would just be easier if I gave you my Ender 3 for yours? It's set up pretty nice..... ;-)

I'm not nearly good enough to suggest which changes to make but I can tell you that it isn't exactly perfect quality. keep looking around for improvements to make

Is it recommended to do this test in draft thickness or the highest quality the printer can go?

Actually, you can learn from both ways! If you want to do a general test to make sure everything is working right, crank up the quality. If you are fighting certain problems which don't relate to thickness, you can for draft, but once you think it's all fixed, a high quality final run would make sure!

Unfortunately mine looks bad, anycubic i3 mega, cura -normal (0.2) default settings, 200c/60c, 40% fill

It gets bad where the total layer time is too short and the next layer starts extruding over still melted plastic, I think you need to either cool it or slow down or print some prime structure to let it cool before going to the next layer.

That's a great example of that exact problem! The slicers generally have settings for a minimum time allowed on layers. If layers print too fast, it'll slow things down to give it time to harden.

That's a great example of that exact problem! The slicers generally have settings for a minimum time allowed on layers. If layers print too fast, it'll slow things down to give it time to harden.

I can't figure it out what's going on. Please take a look at photos.
Any suggestion how to fix it?

measure the thickness of your filament and enter the right value into slicers filament settings could be one source of the issue, compensations can be made but i would use occams razor and start with that as filament thickness can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Under-extrusion. You should try to increase Esteps/mm value and check that the filament goes smoothly.

I try to investigate it.
Funny thing, I didn't change anything on my commonly used profile which give me good test result before. This happens after I import some cura profile. All my profiles now are affected. Somehow globally changed flow? But value still remains at 100.
Does anyone notice such behaviour of Cura 4?

Update:
Insted of changing esteps I change material flow from 100 to 105 an then to 110. It doesn't improve result at all.
Any advice?

Are the dimensions of the print exact? It should be a square bottom 50 mm per side. The circles should be exactly 14 mm and 8 mm in outer diameter. If it's not, you should calibrate your printer first.
I also had the same looking holes on my prints before I made the calibration AND cleaned the whole hotend including the nozzle. I use Cura 4 too, it works as expected so far.

This is my best shot for today (had to change contrast level):

Dimiension are good.
I will try to recalibrate extruder but calibration was done some weeks ago and printed test was pretty good.
Maybe this is not profile issue but some kind of mechanical problem with extruder.

Update.
Stock estep: 93
Last calibration: 96,5
Now: 104 (?!)

Still same issue.

Thanks Majda107 what a great albeit frustrating little test!

This test is proving more difficult than I thought. I can get bridging to work up to 50/60 which I'm happy with although the text that lists the scale diameter is really bad like the nozzle is being dragged over it.

Printed on an ender 3
.15 layer height
200c / 60 bed
2 shells 3 top and bottom layers
80% infill

retraction setting - I've tried a few different options:
6mm at 60 mm/ps
retract on layer change on
retract before the outer wall on
min distance for retracting 1mm
Combing off

Tried lowering the bed as I thought it may be starting too low, changed the speed a bit, played around with the retraction settings, calibrated the e-steps of the extruder and tightened the belt for the x-axis and checked line thickness using a 20 by 20 mm cube (Print with no top or bottom 1 wall line and measure with calipers)

At a bit of a loss really, any tips?

Have you done your extruder calibration? I'm pretty sure the Enders are all out by 10-20% from the factory, and it seems like you're putting out a bit too much material. (Over Extrusion.) I like that material though!

Does your x axis move smooth as butter without catching? That caused probelms with mine.The bottom wheel wasn't square with the top two wheels. Also, try your layer height at .2. See what it looks like.

Got a new nicer printer and this I gonna be awesome to use to test it out. Thanks man!!!!

Hi guys,

I just got my new Ender 3 (first 3d printer) and after much assembling and calibrating I wanted to test this.
This is my 2nd test print, the 1st one had very heavy stringing and I manged to solve this.

The diameter/scale test looks quite bad, rest seems okay.

Any advice?

Thanks!
Chris

Could be a lot worse, but you have a bit of work to do still! I was you in February. Fun journey hey? These things are a riot., (Ender-3)
Anyhow, biggest thing, your circles are ovals, which makes me wonder about belt tension. If you hold still the belt pulley on the right side, above the display, can you feel play if you try to move the print carriage side to side? Again, if you hold the pulley under the table at the front, can you wiggle the table in any direction? If you didn't set the rollers up under the table, it'll be sloppy up and down. Mine were loose when I got it, and the extruder steps calibration was out too. I think you are on the same journey.

I printed this out last night on a CR-10. Came out looking good but dealing with some warping issues. Tolerance test is a little iffy but I didn't do anything with the line / wall width. Messing around with fan and temperature settings to see if I can get rid of the warp, then I will post photos.

Ok, so I figured out I had to rotate it to be flat, but, does it make a difference if it is facing front vs facing right, left, or toward the back? Seems like printing it in all 4 orientations would really let you see what's going on, but is that overkill? P.S. Just started printing one.

This was on my Ender 3 Pro with a glass bed.
Hatchbox PLA, 180°/60°.
After much calibration and Cura tweaking, still not quite where it needs to be.
I've been having problems with random heavy strings ruining prints.
But also, random top surface gaps, like in the last pic.

I have just printed mine and surface looks pretty good. Only problem are some strange strings from the sides of the angled parts and tolerance test not so perfect. Can anyone please advise how to improve it, or at least point me where I can read about it? Thank you
Setup: Anycubic Mega-S, 0.1 layer, reduced wall speed to 30mm/s, flow 97%, white PLA that came with the printer, 200°C/60°C

I have exactly the same issue with the strange stringing. I'm with Ender 2, printet at 60mm/s, 205°C/60°C.
If you find any information on how to fix this I would thankful if you share it here.

Ok, I have everything printing nearly perfectly on this except the text on the top layer (the 14/10 mm and 8/4 mm) the numbers always end up looking smooshed together in places...

Mine did ok with ABS, at least until the left overhang test broke free. The bridges did better than I expected, except the longest one broke away from its tower. The rest did well until the top of the pyramid and stringing towers, just before the bridging started. Any idea what might cause that?

Printed at 60mm/s speed and 20% infill and it failed at the bridge test.. got up to 30 maybefore it broke off.. also the pillers for the string tests were weak.. does that right?

Should i re-print at 50mm/s and 30% infill? Printing on Ender 3

Thanks very much for sharing. I'm using this test to try and diagnose what's wrong with my printer - it was fine up until recently but it's now terrible! There seems to be several problems - have a look at the pics to see what I mean.

I've tried a few different filaments (current one is Extek), but it doesn't seem to make any major difference. Have made sure drive belts are tight. Also tried experimenting with speeds and temps, but nothing I've tried so far has solved the problem.

The model in the pics was printed at 190C with 30% fill density. Print speed 50 mm/s. Retraction speed 50 mm/s, and distance 5mm. Travel speed is 60 mm/s and infill speed 40 mm/s.

Printer is Anet A8.

Can anyone help me here? Let me know if further details are needed - I'm relatively new to this.

Many thanks!

Are you sure it's actually printing @ 190C? It looks super hot, check to make sure your part cooling fan is working properly.

Thanks alot for sharing with the community your knowledge. I printed the test on my Flsun qq. I used the version of cura that was sent on the flash card to slice. I used 3D Solutech Pla filament. 205 degrees. .2 Resolution. I think it was 20% infill. Can you please look at these images and give me a little advice on how to tweak?

Also, I could not find a "Thin Wall" anywhere on my version of cura. curafk3pdx is the file name but I cannot find a version anywhere.

Thanks!

Paul

It looks line the overhang test comes out ok? But then my nozzle fairly consistently appears to bump into upward curling overhangs on other prints. My temp is 200C using solutech pla, .175mm height using MPSM. Line width set to .42 for a .4mm nozzle. Increasing the line width from .35mm to >.4mm seemed to be the only thing that helped curling, amongst the gazillion different settings I tried. I am including the test print and the bed shifted print. Thank you in advance!

how will print it this at angle like stl or we must to orient it?

Needs a rotation around X of 270 degrees.

I printed it yesterday with a Geeetech A10 after some not so good prints.

I already know that i have to improve the bed adhesion. Following the guide i suppose that i have some over-extrusion, so a calibration is on the way. From other prints i know that i have to improve the outline overlap.

Any other suggestion?

Thanks

Hi!

I haven't been part of the 3D printing scene for long now, but could it be possible that you have a nozzle temperature pretty close to the lower temp band of your fillament? Especially your bottom layer looks like it partially cooled before it was fully laid down. (Or some kind of non-intended ventilation on your printer? E.g. form an open window..)

Besides the normal adhesion recommendations, I would tend to increase the temperature by maybe 3 to 5 °C.

For the wobbly printing (Like the sharp corners), I would check all your screws and belt tensions. It looks like you either have quite a bit of play there, or the print head is slightly too fast. (Due to high weight and its inertia)

Thanks a lot for your reply. I'll check the things that you pointed out and will let you know.
Thanks again.

Use this cura profile on almost any Cartesian plane rep-rap printers if you wish to print overhangs, it is excellent :)
(It is also very good for intricate models)

*This is not my own profile, i am just recommending it for the use of others.

My printer is having a lot of trouble on the overhangs. They seem to be flexing significantly and catching the nozzle on a lot of layers. Not sure what would be causing this. Printing on MP select mini. Layer height 0.175mm, infill 30%, temp 195/50 PLA.

Did my first test print today. Got my Ender 3 two days ago (my first 3d printer).
Bottom side of 75 and 80 is some few strings hanging just a bit
sliced in cura
Layer Height 0.2
Infill 30%
speed 60mm/s
No support
Temp 200/60

Looks a bit over extruded. otherwise good. here is my ender 3 for example. same settings, but 215 for temp

Ouch This is one ugly ender 3 print. I used the chris elkin cura profile temp 205/70 temp, speed 60mms , w layer 0.15, infill 30%, and thin wall on. Any suggestions where to start?

You probably need to calibrate your extruder. Easiest way is retract all your filament, unscrew the bowden tube from your extruder and then push the filament so that it's flush with the exit of the extruder, and send "G1 E100 F100". Cut off the amount that got extruded and measure it. You can then follow the calculations from here: https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/ to calculate and program the correct E steps. all3dp run the filament through the nozzle but i've had mixed results with that method. cold measurement has been much better in my experience.

It seems like it is over extruding a lot!
Make sure your feed rate is correct in cura. and did you select your printer model in cura as well? because this might be because of wrong printer settings.

Edit:

Also check the filament diameter in cura settings and check if it's the same as the filament that you use.. 1.75mm or 3mm

Thanks, was able to 'dial in' performance on my Ender 3 Pro by using 'Normal' profile and adjusting layer height to .16 (even multiple of 1.8 degree microstep drive / screw combination). Left unit was 205C 100% infill, unknown retract ( I think it was 2 mm); right unit was 'Normal' profile adjusted as described.

Comments deleted.

Ive done the print 3 times once no calibration, once after calibration and once after doing ptfe tube fix all of them come out with this necking on the posts in the same exect layer and those zits on the overhang in the same exact layer. Layer hight at .12 flow 100% .4 wall 30% infil. Using ender 3 pro. Any ideas??

You could try printing it again with a different slicer... maybe some part of the gcode gets corrupted somehow?
I'm not an expert at all but just trying to find a solution for you.

First off great model for printer test! I am a beginner in 3d printing, so this is my third print, first being the board fan cover right out of the box and it printed pretty good. Second another model I did for an Aria Scale and didn't come out great probably because of wrong resolution and infill settings, but still I wanted to do this test print just to see what I need to tune/adjust.

I just did basic Cura settings, 0.1mm, 30% infill, No Supports. Took around 3:15hr

Looks pretty good around 40deg overhang, a little bit of stringing on the small tower section.
Overall not too bad for 3rd print right out of the box. I will check extruder calibration and maybe heating pid.

I think this print looks acceptable right out of the box. I wouldn't start messing with the heat PID right away.

  • First make sure that the filament diameter in cura corresponds with the filament diameter you are using.
  • Adjust and play around with your retraction settings
  • Check your feed rate in cura.
  • Adjust the extruder according to the many tutorials you can find on the interwebs.

I'm no expert just trying to give some advice.

Is this to be printed in the orientation it comes in? Or is the large flat supposed to be on the bottom?

Hey, its supposed to be flat.

Marián.

Just printed this on my Lulzbot Mini 2 with 0.14mm layer height and 30% infill using eSUN PLA+ filament. Half of the tolerance test disappeared. Bridging, stringing and sharp corners test seems to be quite good. The outer diameter are exactly 14mm and 8mm, but the inner diameter are 9.7mm and 3.8mm. However there are some extra output on various place.

Looks good!

Do some calibration and it will be perfect...

Try enabling "thin walls* in your slicer, this may cause the disappearance of tolerance test.

Marián.

wow guys, Its been more than a week for me trying to make a decent Cura setting for my new ender 3. I can't print anything at good even regular quality.
I made this test and seems everything is wrong. Could you please help me and let me know what you think about the test and the possibles problems of my ender 3?

Join the ender 3 facebook group

I'd start by checking your printer mechanically, check extruder, pulleys, belt,....

After that, do some calibrations, check my guide!

Then it's just about tuning.
Marián.

yeah, I spend of the past week checking the mechanic parts. the only problem I have to fix right now is a tiny thing that connect de ptfe tube to the nozzle. I don't believe that this issue is so huge for this kind of results. when I fix the issue and do some calibrations after that, I will post an update.

guys, I don´t know what happened but I fix the problem, here is how I managed in case your ender 3 prints looks like crap too.

After check all the mechanics, and use a lot of pro settings even one on my own, the prints still looks very bad.
Surfing the internet I found a guy who has the exact same problem. Nothing wrong on the 3d printer but very bad prints.

It´s all about Cura. When I import external profiles, something change on the Cura settings.We don´t know how but this is real guys.
All you have to do is a serious uninstall of Cura, re install the program and never ever import another profile.
Each time I import one, something happened so I stop doing that and insert the profile settings that I want manually.

hope this helps and save you waste hours of calibrating.

Glad you've fixed it!

Marián

Hi, thanks for the files.
I'm an absolute beginner and I have printed many objects with some good results and few really bad. I use Cura and I think my printer (Ender 3) is ok, while Cura settings need some tuning. I'm saying this because I printed this cat https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2643326/files from the gcode file and came out perfect. Any chance someone could help me figuring out what's wrong?

CR-10 Cat File

I was able to get my settings tuned by doing all 3 test here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3071464
But it looks like you are just not getting the right amount of plastic out, I would say try the temp test first.

Ender 3 calibration files

Thank you for your reply. I did the test and the results were actually very good. But again the tests are gcode files. I'm starting to think there's something wrong with my Cura settings.

Here is the Cura profile I made based on the testing I did and it is working very well so far.
I will say layer 1 comes out shiny though.

Thank you AceticWolfe. I used your profile and I'm printing a challenging file... It's almost finished and It looks very promising. What's beyond my comprehension is that it seems there are very little changes from my previous settings. By the way you were really helpful. Thank you

Glad to hear that is working for you. I am fairly new to 3d printing as well but I find small changes have big effects on the prints.
And you are very welcome, I try to help where ever I can.

Hi.

Just printed this model out of my new Ender 3 Pro.
I've done several hours bed level adjustments, but is not perfect yet.
Planning to get a BLTouch Auto-Leveling unit later on, for easier calibrations.

But is there anyone here, who can see what the problem is in this test print?
(See the pictures)
Want to get it "on point" before doing a larger/longer print.
Do I have to calibrate even further? Or is it slicer issue? (using Cura)

I scaled the model down a few notches. so the size is: 36.5 x 36.5 x 41 mm.
30% infill, 0.2 layer height.

Thanks in regards.

Hey friend,

It doesnt look bad... it has just big visible layer lines because of big layer height...

Also, I'd not recommend you to get BLTouch, in most cases it's better to have printer calibrated by your hand.

Marián.

Hello , I am new to 3d printing and printed your test object with ender 3 .I checked your guide and couldn’t find my main issue on the list .Can you telll me what’s wrong here?

Hey friend, the print looks really wide on your image..

I'd say that you have some serious issue with Z axis. Calibrate it and try again.

Marián.

How exactly do i interpret the results of the tolerance test part? On the right part (the on with the bars) i only get the two biggest and none at all for the others. On the left side i can print the first 4-5 with visible gaps and after that its just one block.

Tips would be appreciated :)

Hey friend.

The more bars you can print, the better the result is.

It isn't expected to print everything, your result is fine I'd say!

Marián.

Comments deleted.

Really fun test/object. I think it went OK, but any feedback would be greatly appreciated since I only started 3D printing about 5 days ago. Flat text did not come out so good, tolerance test was ok but I forgot to enable 'thing walls', unless it was done by default, overhang did well but you can start to see layers after about 50%. Measurements on the 2, 5, 10 15, 20 25mm test we off by about 2mm (too long) across the board (so about 4-27mm) is there a reason for that and is it an issue? On the diameter test the outsides were right on at 14 and 8 but the insides were off a little at about 8 (instead of 10mm) and 3 (instead of 4mm)

Hey friend,

search on thingiverse for “calibration cross”, there is a great guide how to fix your issue!

Hope this helps!

Tell me ur results then :-).

Marián.

Comments deleted.

Hey great test, i'm new at 3d printing and i'm learning as i go. i read the guide you posted as well, thank you for that. hey quick general question if the measurements i get on the diameter test are off by 0.5 mm-0.7 mm what would be the reason for that and what would i adjust? would it be over-extrusion or too high temp?

Hey friend, this is expected deviation that can be fixed but isn’t neccesary.

If you want to fix it, print calibration cross, you can find it on thingiverse. It’ll guide you to the fix!

Hope this helps,
Marián.

great thank you for the quick reply

Comments deleted.

Just a heads up; that second link in your description is being blocked by my VPN as a harmful site

Thaťs weird? It’s just wordpress site, nothing else.

Marián.

Yep, even now, got a malware site "your computer is infected, call now, blah blah, blah" Had to force close a bunch of windows....

Just clicked myself and yup is being blocked as malware by malwarebytes too.

The link is zipansion.com? Searching Zipansion on Google returns a mix of malware reports and seriously disturbing porn titles

Seriously? From what I know, Zipansion is link based on adf.ly from what I know and that's referral website. I'll change the link for adf.ly one...

I guess it's just a question of who commonly uses the service. Let me know when the link is updated :)

Adf.ly revoked adf.ly links, so I had to use this one... does it work?
http://j.gs/Bm9U

Marián

Sorry, blocked again :(

Weird. Nevermind.

No worries, sent a tip instead, less hassle XD

Check your DM's! Thank you so much <3!

Hi my Prusa i3 Mk3 is not able to print this file at all. I'm printing it on it's side as per the default orientation. Is this correct? Can I rotate it to print flat on it's base?

Hey friend,

Yes, rotate the model to place it flat!

Default orientation is set by 3D designing software and can be read differently by various of slicers, no worries.

Marián.

Thanks so much Marián! I was wondering the same. Your explanation helps make sense. :-)

What is the size of this? Would it fit on the bed of my MonoPrice Mini Delta (120mm circle bed width x 200mm height)

Hey friend,

I am sorry for late reply.

I don’t exactly know if it fits on circle bed, simply downlod it and load into slicer..

Marián.

Comments deleted.

Using this to calibrate my new MK3 right now, I'll post pictures once I'm done

Glad to hear!

Marián

Comments deleted.

Great file! Going to calibrate my CR-10 with this in multiple locations.

I think it would useful to add a "direct overhang" test to one side, ie, going from flat to 10, flat to 20, etc... With the way it is setup now, you kind of get to build upon the previous degree which doesn't really indicate if you can go from 0 to say 60 in one fell swoop. Maybe the regular overhang test essentially does the same thing but would still be a useful indicator.

Thanks!

Hey friend,
Thanks for such feedback!

My laptop is currently broken, but I may try to do it in the furure!

Sincerely,
Marián Trpkoš.