It seems that, over time, quite a number of people came to the original plant sign design and ran through the customizer to create a sign for one reason or another; not always plant signs, and even a bookmark remix. Each time I get a notification of a remix, I feel a little bad that I didn't set the initial parameters a little differently. It seems clear that the most common remix doesn't alter the overall thickness and the end result is somewhat fragile.
Many of my prints of the original design were broken by a misplaced foot and I realised that, with the best will in the world, these things will get trodden on, and so I ended up making a simpler chunkier deisgn which I've now printed hundreds of and which, despite the promise that PLA is biodegradeable, have stood up to both the elements and a many a misplaced foot.
With strength of the final print in mind then, I'm uploading this slight rework so that any derivatives from here will most likely produce a robust end result. The only thing you'll typically need to tweak should be the actual text, and the width of the sign in order to accommodate the text.
I've included many English (well some Latin) plant names here ready to go in case you want to get started quickly.
Update: 20th June 2018. Added Lavender, Pelargonium, Rhodochiton
Update: 27th July 2018. Added Bergenia, Verbena, Eucalyptus
Update: 17th June 2019. Added Camassia, Fritillaria, Plectranthus, Pansy, WildDaisy, Syringa, Cyrtomium, Dryopteris, May Weed, Peony, Garlic, Broad Bean, Erysmium, Cytisus, Scabiosa, Polypodium, Pulsatilla, Doronicum, Cyperus, Bluebell, Sunflower, Nicandra, Stock, Leptinella, Sedum, Eucomis, Parsley, Tarragon, Okra, Auricula, Akebia, Coriander
I use Simplify 3D to slice and have three processes for these labels in order to produce the results you see in the photos. If you change from a layer height of 0.3, the following detail will need some rework. I used a 0.4 nozzle for these labels.
The first process is designed to build up the majority of the sign in the shortest possible time. This process is set to print with an extrusion width of 0.8 and two shells. I could probably get away with 1 shell come to think of it, but two works well and the results is easy to push into the ground, so I haven't tried to optimise further. I set this process to use zero top layers and to stop at 4.2mm height.
The next process covers the sparse infill. This is set to an auto extrusion width (0.48), still with two perimeters. Without going into all the detail about why I reverted here, just trust me and, if you like, watch the print as it performs the first of these layers to see why it works well. This process starts at 4.2mm and finishes at 5.1mm.
The final process is for the lettering. I set this to use a 0% infill, 0 solid bottom layers and 0 solid top layers. which works really well to pick out the lettering alone. This process starts at 5.1mm.
Once I've sliced, I open up the resulting GCODE in notepad and find Layer 18, where I introduce an M226 command. This is the pause command for the Duet electronics and results in the head moving to the front left of the printer and ejecting the filament. At that point I can feed the alternate color for the lettering and resume the print. This could well be different for your printer and electronics, but there should be an analog for this.
The majority of my prints use HobbyKing Metallic Gold for the main body and Rigid.Ink Khaki for the lettering.