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moesizzlac

Chopped up for 8x10x8 Printer-Halo 3-Mark 6-Master Chief Armor Set(No Helmet)

by moesizzlac Jun 7, 2018
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I have so far printed off the arms and shoulders. They look fantastic :)
One problem... I cant get my hand through the hole lol
I'm new to printing and am unsure how to make the hand hole larger.
Any tips?
Thank you :)

I cut out a piece (very finely) off of the forearm and reattached it using Stretchrite and hot glue. This will allow the armor to flex for you in other spots too like the shin armor. Try getting the heel of your foot through a correctly sized shin and it's a pain without the Stretchrite relief put in.

https://www.405th.com/forums/attachments/20190208_074158-jpg.265866/

https://www.405th.com/forums/attachments/20190208_074213-jpg.265867/

https://www.405th.com/forums/attachments/20190208_074223-jpg.265868/

THANK YOU!! I have this problem as well. What did you use to manage such a fine cut? I have a dremel, but it'll just melt the plastic. I tried hollowing out the inside edges of the holes, but that didn't help.

Use a razor knife and just keep on scoring the plastic. It will give and allow for the thinnest cut possible. Be very careful when using the knife. Slow is smooth...

That's a genius idea!
I'll definitely give that a shot :)
Is it safe to use fiberglass inside the 3d print to make it stronger? Or would the heat generated warp the pla do you think?

I am not 100% certain on the effects of fiberglassing on PLA. That being said, I do know that PLA is much stronger than paper and if you apply the same reinforcement techniques as one would do with pepakura, It should have no problem being reinforced with fiberglass.

Work in small amounts, light coats, and never the entire piece at once. Split the piece into 4 quarters and work on one at a time.

Finally, If you printed the thickness I did, I don't thing it is necessary to use the fiberglass for reinforcement unless your glue was giving you trouble. It'll just add weight to the overall suit and the weight will bog you down after a while.

Hey man, wanted to say I really appreciate the time and effort you took to model this for us. I've seen tons of models for the newer mjolnir armor in Halo 4/5 but nothing from the classic h2/h3 Mk vi armor style. So I was really happy when I found you had Done it!

I just had a couple of questions for you:

  1. Did you print with PLA?
  2. If so what did you use to bond the parts together securely? I've used some super glue on some weapons I display but am not sold on it being all that secure and would worry when moving around with the armor.

Lastly, I plan to print all these pieces by the end of this next summer and hope you don't mind if I have some questions going forward that I send them your way!

Thanks again man.

Thank you! To answer your questions:

1) For material, I used ABS plastic. The abs plastic may warp more but the finishing is much smoother when sanding. I use the ready patch (https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-4424-Ready-Patch-1-Quart/dp/B000BQURN8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1548181184&sr=8-3&keywords=ready+patch) which is like a drywall compound for uneven surface repairs. It has a long working time, easy to shape with the right tools and I have an overabundance of the stuff left over from previous projects.

As for Glue, I actually use the stuff that plumbers use (https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-30916-Special-Cement-4-Ounce/dp/B000FSQUNI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538073348&sr=8-3&keywords=abs+glue) when working on waste pipes. Any home hardware store has it and since I'm working primarily with ABS, this stuff is great. I sand both adjoining ends down flat so that they will marry up nicely. When applied, the glue starts to melt the plastic edge. I line up piece to the best position and let it dry for about 5 or 10 minutes. I learned this method when doing buzz lightyear.

I have also used Hot Stuff Super T (basically super glue) with the accelerate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HFKZPPW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and have had positive results as well. Cure time with accelerate is seconds.

Any large gaps, I fill using a 3D Pen (https://www.amazon.com/Canbor-Printing-Drawing-Compatible-Filament/dp/B077MCVRHL/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1537982956&sr=8-4&keywords=3D+pen+abs)

2) If you are using PLA plastic, The following Glues are what I would use:
A) Hot Stuff Super T (basically super glue) with the accelerate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HFKZPPW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - Use to tack glue pieces together,

  B) Epoxy like J.B. Weld (https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50139-Plastic-Adhesive/dp/B01IBOK7FE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1548180109&sr=8-3&keywords=Plastic+epoxy) - use on larger areas and gaps or on the inside to make a more secure bond

  C) E6000 adhesive (https://www.amazon.com/E6000-230010-Craft-Adhesive-Ounces/dp/B007TSYNG8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1548180286&sr=8-3&keywords=e6000) - I haven't used it yet but I heard good tings about PLA application.  The only thing is, make sure the glue is fully dry and the smell has disapated before wearing the suit.  The smell can be noxious.

  D) Bondo (or Rondo - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXnYxz4Ta7s) mix on the inside along the seems helps also but this adds a lot of weight to the project.  

If you'd like to look at more of how it came together, check out the build on 405th.com (https://www.405th.com/forums/threads/master-chief-mjolnir-mark-6-halo-3-3d-printable-armor-files.47835/). Any other questions, I'd be happy to help answer.

Pretty new to scaling but for a 6 foot 5 person how much up scale do you think would be required?

Assuming you have a somewhat athletic build like myself, The easiest thing to do would be to increase everything about 10% since you are 10% taller than me (I'm 5'10).

Other than that, you can use blender and it's pretty easy to see if a piece or armor will work. Just download a full piece or armor from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2936511/files, import the stl into blender program and take a look at the measurements on right side (see attached picture). That number is in mm and can be converted to inches.

Take the thigh armor for example. Measure on yourself where the thigh armor would look good to start and stop. Take that measurement and convert it to mm (https://www.google.com/search?ei=fZsSXPeyDYGOggfLmaz4DQ&q=inches+to+mm&oq=inches+to+mm&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0i71l8.1404850.1404850..1405208...0.0..0.0.0.......0....1..gws-wiz.1ZHQpIJSqyM)

Go into Blender and scale the piece until it matches the conversion.

Halo 3 - Mark 6 - Master Chief Armor Set - No Helmet
Comments deleted.

For the chest, did you attach everything together? Do you slip it on over your head and over your shoulders? The pictures look like some adjustable straps or straps to a point under the armpit in the middle section

Adjustable on both the sides and where the shoulders meet the chest piece. It doesn't fit too well over my huge head. Like this, I can loosen it to get a more form fit when wearing it. The straps also add flexibility to the outfit.

Gottcha. That makes more sense. I'm your size and was quick super glue to test size and was like "how the ..." Guessing clips glued inside then the straps between the two for adjusting? First armor set trying to figure out the little things lol. Thanks for the help! And the design, love it, did go with a cqb helmet though, classic Halo 3 babt

Well the pictures here seem a little small to get a good grasp but when you look closely at the front torso, you can see 2 sets of 8/32 nuts on the outside. The inside is holding a strap that is attached to the clips. You can get a closer look at pictures from a build log I did a few months ago here: https://www.405th.com/forums/threads/master-chief-mjolnir-mark-6-halo-3-3d-printable-armor-files.47835/page-2

is this and the cut up one the same scale? I am using the uncut one to determine scale but I will have to print from the cut files.

I don't think they are identical, no. This one was more fine tuned for me and my build. Even being fine tuned, it was still off in some places. My chest needed to be wider and deeper but I still made it work in its current scale.

Best thing I recommend if you have to use the whole models for scale but don't want to cut it up, import the whole model, scale it, then import a piece from the cut up version, scale it similarly and see if the small model matches when placed over the same section of the whole model.

Thank you for your work. Tried in in Pepakura a while ago but was never satisfied with the results. Will definitely print these.