The DAEMON 3D printer is a project consisting in the design of a mini 3D printable printer making good quality prints at the lowest cost. The machine can easily print at 30mm per second and has maximum printing volume of 120x120x120mm (with or without heated bed).
The first prototype is working nicely and the parts available here have been adapted in order to correct the flaws of the first attempts.
Video of the machine printing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73kL_HxCwfM
The full assembly STEP file is available in Thing files.
The modified Marlin firmware for the motherboard is also available in Thing files.
-The spool holder is a TUSH: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2047554
-There will be instructions for assembly eventually
-To print the main frame parts, you will need a 25x25cm bed or split them in multiple elements
Don't hesitate to comment if you have questions or ideas of possible improvements.
These are the settings I used, but there's nothing specially required.
RAMPS 1.4 and Arduino Mega 2560 kit
As a motherboard, the Arduino Mega 2560 with the RAMPS 1.4 shield does the perfect job. You'll need a kit containing those 2 boards, at least 4 A4988 (or else) stepper drivers and the 12864 LCD.
NEMA 17 34mm stepper motors
4 stepper motors are needed. The printer is designed to fit 42SHD0001-24 NEMA 17 stepper motors (42x42x34mm long with 26Ncm torque). This is the maximum length the actual design can handle, but you are welcome to modify it to fit other motors.
E3D V6 hotend
A kit containing the hotend with it's fan and the bowden tube can be found online. I used a cheap XCSOURCE E3D V6 from Amazon and it does a great job.
8mm metal rods
The prototype is built with standard 8mm diameter aluminum tube except for the 2 front rods which are steel (it helps for the rigidity of the whole structure). It can be made with any type of rods. Steel is more rigid, but it's also more complicated to assemble and needs a constant surface roughness for the bearings to roll smoothly. Aluminum is a bit more shaky, but it's lighter and far easier to assemble. With aluminum, the bearing balls will carve the metal a bit and fit nicely to the rod. You can also use precision rods made for 3D printers but they are more expensive.
You will need to cut 10 rods in total:
-6 rods of 20cm
-4 rods of 33.5cm
Approximately 3 meters of tube are needed to build the whole structure.
LM8UU 8mm linear bearings
10 bearings are needed (2 for X axis, 4 for Y axis and 4 for Z axis). There are kits available containing these and other parts used in the build (belt, motor pulleys, 608ZZ bearings and couplers).
120x120mm print bed
The print bed has to be bought somewhere or cut in 3mm (minimum) thick aluminum plate. The surface has to be clean, rigid and plane. You can also add a heating silicone pad under it to get an heated bed. There is a 110mm space bewteen the holes on X an Y axis.
GT2 timing belt, pulleys and bearings
1 meter of standard GT2 belt will do fine (6mm large by 1.5mm thick). You'll also need 2 20T timing pulleys (for X and Y axis steppers) and 3 20T toothless bearing pulleys (with 5mm bore).
5mm axis coupler
1 standard coupler to fit the Z motor axis and M5 threaded rod. This part can also be printed.
Micro limit switches
3 micro limit switches. One for each axis (with 6.4mm space bewteen the two 1.5mm diameter holes). Other types of switches can be used, but they will not match the screw holes (there is still glue...).
MK8 direct drive extruder (bowden)
1 simple direct MK8 extruder. Mine is a Gaoxing Tech ordered on Amazon (looking exactly like the one in the 3D model). Feel free to try any other type of extruder to see how it goes.
Screws, washers and nuts
You'll need a few different screws to build this printer:
-8 M3 25mm screws for the upper frame
-8 M3 15mm screws for the bottom frame
-2 M3 15mm for the Y axis belt holder
-2 M3 25mm screws for the MK8 extruder
-1 M3 40mm for the Y axis front pulley
-2 M3 15mm for the hotend carrier
-2 M3 15mm for the X axis pulleys
-1 M3 20mm for the bed cooling fan (optional)
-4 M3 25mm for the print bed (V head if possible)
-10 M3 10mm for the stepper motors
-1 M5 80mm for Z axis endstop calibration (or cut threaded rod)
-1 M5 180mm threaded rod for Z axis movement
-4 M5 nuts for Z axis calibration and movement
-1 M3 40mm screw
-10 M3 25mm screws (H or flat head)
-4 M3 25mm screws with chamfered head
-1 M3 20mm screw
-14 M3 15mm screws
-10 M3 screws
-28 M3 nuts
-48 M3 washers (not absolutely needed but recommended)
-4 M5 nuts for Z axis
-1 M5 threaded rod (180mm + 80mm)
-8 little 2mm (max) plastic screws (I don't know what type it is) for the motherboard and the LCD
-6 M1 10mm screws for the limit switches (plastic screws or glue can do the trick)
Note that these numbers may be a bit off so don't hesitate to take more of each type.
Power supply unit
The power supply has to deliver 12V at 5A (minimum) if you print without heated bed and at 11A (minmum for ABS) if you use an heated bed. There are several models of PSU available online. For the prototype I used an old Xbox 360 PSU which is powerful, compact and fan cooled.