- UPDATE 12/12/2018
This wheel now has interchangeable rims :D you can find the other design following the link below. Have fun! ;)
Here we are, fellows. This one is the good one. Street wheels for longboard or skateboard. I'm still testing them, but they work. This time the wheel has two parts: rim and tyre.
Dimensions: 97mm Diameter x 62mm wide aprox. You will need two 608 bearings and one 10mm spacer per wheel (like common skate wheels).
But uncle zenjota, there are plenty of wheels out there on the market. Why you decided to build your own wheels?
That's a good question little Timmy. It's been a while now since I decided to build my own electric longboard, but the wheels I found didn't fit my needs of clearance under the deck, also they are rigid, and I was looking for something more flexible, shock absorbing (I found the MBS Allterrain wheels, they look very good but are hard to get here) so I designed the wheels too. Plus, If I buy them, where's the fun :V? Damn, we are makers Timmy!
Allright, leaving the madness aside, there are some truths. I built my own electric longboard, and after the first try I found some issues I want to improve, so I'm making a new, awesome version (After some tests and checks I will upload some cool stuff ;D )
Important DISCLAIMER: I've designed this objects to be 3d printed, don't forget that. Even if you use the world's best 3d printer, they're still 3d printed objects, and should be managed with caution. I do not take any responsibility for the use you give to them. So please, BE CAREFUL okey? :)
Here is my current configuration. You can take it as a recommendation.
Slice the STL's as they are. I always set the best orientation inside the STL.
I used PETG for the core of the wheel, because is easy to print as the PLA, and has similar properties from both PLA and ABS. This piece needs support for the bearing hole faced down.
This one is a tricky piece. I used flexible TPU, but it's hard to find the right one, because there are no hardness standards in terms of flexible filaments. Mine is semi-flexible, harder than flexible (It's a tyre, you don't want a squishy tyre, trust me). That "hard" point allows me to try different combinations of perimeters and infill. Due to the big variety of flex filaments, it's difficult to set a one-for-all config. You'll have to make a little of trial and error with your filament, there's no other way. Who knows, maybe you'll find your perfect spot at the first try (I didn't, that's why I don't play lottery lol). Anyway, I leave here my config if anyone finds that "harder than flexible" TPU filament and wants some orientation:
No support needed
8 perimeters - I still don't know the level of degradation of this tyres
25% Infill - Gives me a tough wheel that holds my weight without squishing a lot.
Rectilinear pattern for the infill
Flexible TPU needs low printing speeds, take that in mind.
There is a GIF below showing the assembly of the wheel. Simple: put the rim into the tyre. That's it. I've made two hollow rings inside the tyre that match with the rings carved on the rim, one at the top and one at the bottom. Those rings are more flexible than the tyre itself (I've made them hollow for that) and they have to let you put the rim inside the tyre. Once inside they prevent the tyre from going out of the rim.
For the bearings and the spacer, skaters have a nice and simple way to install them. There are thousands of videos out there, you can go and search about it.
Hope you enjoy your new 3d printed wheel! :D