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DnD dice holder and spell slot tracker

by NealHatesMath May 26, 2018
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Does anyone have a cura profile for this? I'm having issues where it's getting bunched up around the nozzle after about an hour. I've only printed minis so far which doesn't have this issue.

Care to link to the appropriate magnet size / magnets you used in the instructions?

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So the third piece, the roller box, can the dice holder/spell tracker, when closed, fit inside it? So it all can be carried as one component easily? If not, would scaling be sufficient?

So the goal is that the spell slot holder and dice holder snap together with magnets, and the whole thing fits in the bigger dice rolling box.

Awesome, that's exactly what I was hoping. Guessing not magnetic snap to roller box, but is fine. Printing a test one now.

Would love to see a pic or two more about how it fits together and holds all the pieces!

I have one somewhere at home, next time I find it I'll try to remember to post pictures.

I broke all 4 nubs off the dice holder piece immediately off the printer as I dropped it onto the floor in my garage. Woops. I remixed your remix and I'll post it momentarily. Mine has a dovetailed lid and locking closure. Thanks for the inspiration!

Where can i find those black coins?

I'm only 11 months late to replying to this, but in case anyone comes across this and gets curious those are sorcery point tokens found here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2800933).

D&D Sorcery Point token

You should make it so that the part that hold the dice in the rows can be lifted out of the box. That way you could have a bigger area to roll your dice

So technically the tray is for dice rolling and the small area next to the dice is for a miniature. But making the dice holder the tray isn't a terrible idea. I'll see how much space I have to work with to try to make this happen, there may not be enough free space to print it as two parts without messing up the structural integrity.

What is the magnet plug for?

The base and the lids have holes in the corners that magnets go in. Once you put the magnet in you can glue a plug in the hole to keep it there.

Some time this week I'm going to be creating another version of this without the mini space. Instead of that it's going to have a cylinder from bottom to top that's just big enough to hold the spell slot tokens.

The goal of this is to cut down on print time, but also to cut down on the model enough that the tray can be printed on a traditional 20cmx20cm print bed. If anyone has any suggestions or edits to be made to these models now would be the time to comment.

Neal, I'm the creator of the original design you've remixed here.I don't see that you've posted this revision you mention, so I'm wondering how that's coming for you? As far as making it fit on a 20x20 bed, you could use dovetail joints in the two dice slots on the outside and leave the middle one as is. So, cut the tray in half on the shortest axis, cut out a small dovetail section from both of the dice slots, and move them to the other half and attach them there. You could then print the two halves next to each other and when complete glue them together. I use foam in the bottom of my dice slots, so it would be covered up from the inside, and in post you can hide it from the outside. A well fitting joint should hide pretty much any seams anyway.

In regard to your spell slot holder, I'm not sure I'm picturing your implementation correctly. Are you thinking of making the spell slots be a cylinder going across the dice slots, or do you mean you would lay the spells flat inside the model? I would think having the cylinder go perpendicular to the dice slots would be best.

If you'd like to keep the print as one singular print instead of splitting it and areremoving the mini section, you could re-align the dice slots to be all aligned on all axes which would save a few mm. If you'd like I can adjust my model to do this since I have the originals. Beyond that you could use smaller magnets since you'd got less material in play, so weaker magnets should be ok, or even implement a hidden hinge type design or eliminate the magnets entirely.

I'd be interested to see what you come up with. My character doesn't have spells, so I didn't even think of this design, but I'd like to create some of these for my other players. Also, worth noting, I updated my model with a new variant if you'd like to check that out and apply your changes to that too.

Good work!

If you scroll to the 3rd from the last picture it should be what I'm trying to explain. Instead of a space for a mini there's just a cylinder that holds the tokens, similarly to a poker chip holder. I printed it once but unfortunately I didn't really factor in tolerance and it didn't work out so hot. I expanded it a bit and I'm looking to print it again in a bit. Unfortunately I don't own a printer, just have access to one at work.

I tried printing it in two parts without any sort of joint, and my guess is I didn't let it cool properly and the edge that I cut across ended up a little rounded. The main thing that doesn't fit is the actual case for the whole thing, the rest of it goes diagonally and fits in the print bed I use (UM3, 2+, 2+e) but now the goal is to cut down on print time.

Eventually my goal is to get my own printer so I can start printing things in full and with better infills. For now I'm stuck doing most of the modeling without printing, but now that I'm factoring in tolerances we should (famous last words) be good.

I think I'm going to try working with hinges soon. I've never actually tinkered with or printed those before, so it'll be a nice new thing to expand my skillset.

Much appreciated! Honestly the main reason I tinkered this was the time constraints with my current setup. I really dig the foam inserts and just double printing the main piece. Again, maybe one day. Crossing my fingers.

I didn't even notice those new photos at the end, so it appears you've done most of the things I mentioned before.

You'll also want to play with print settings, specifically speeds when it comes to accuracy. If I use the Prusa Edition of Slic3r with the same presets as PrusaControl for slicing I can entirely different results. Averything out of PrusaControl prints perfectly accurate, but super slow. By slowing down the speeds a little bit in Slic3r I was able to achieve the same accuracy, but with faster print times, just took some trial and error. Not having your own printer certainly gets in the way of testing though.

I haven't tried hinges yet myself, but have a few friends with good ideas for them, so I'll be giving it a shot soon.

When you get your own printer, I can't recommend the Prusa i3 MK3 enough!

You're the second one to recommend that printer, and honestly the fact that it's 25x21x21 has me pretty much sold. Would you recommend getting the kit and putting it together yourself or just getting the assembled version?

100% get the kit!!!! Not only will it save you money, but if you're a tinkerer (I doubt you'd be here if you weren't) then you'll enjoy putting it together too. It is a long build, but so worth it. Even if you hate putting it together, you'll learn a lot about it, which will make you more confident when you need to replace or upgrade something.

That's what I was leaning to. Thanks for the advice!

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