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Ender 3 Cable Chain

by johnniewhiskey May 19, 2018
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Hey everyone! This was actually one of my first prints...

Now printing live: https://youtu.be/WoAtMa5k_zk

Love to print in 3D - it is awesome!

Strong small part settings = Layer height .28mm (low quality in Cura), Fan speed = 50%, wall/top/bottom speed = 20mm/s, extruder 210, bed 60. That's all it took to get these printed strong enough to connect, even using finicky copper PLA I have leftover.

The finer you print, the weaker your part will be...

Hey, I am trying to print the cableChain_link_v3.stl with my Geeetech A10 using PLA, original Marlin 1.1.8. There's a problem at the back of the print that I have occasionally with other files as well. There a two prints in the picture, on the right side is the best out of eight prints with different settings shown. And sorry, it's black filament.

Decreasing layer height made it worse, increasing flow to 95% made it worse. Sticking to the heatbed doesn't seem to be the problem.

Any suggestions guys?

You also need to work on your part cooling, the bottom rows are melting away as you add more filament on top.

I used a bullseye shroud and I spent a little time fine tuning to get this part spot on

I was struggling like you .. Although I don't gave up on it previously, I tried 'creawsome mod' I gave it a try and it printed an immaculate link.

I can see the settings are for creality printers but you might want to take a look at the settings, I was thinking I needed to do some printer calibration but it was all in the settings.

Pla ... 65°bed 210 nozzle, half of them broke durring assembly. This is my first time having issues with prints.
Not sure if its the pla im using or what. anyone else have this happen?

20/20 broke. FML. I feel your pain. 15 hour print.... :(

Which chain version?

I just printed 15 of the version 3 with 60° bed and 210 nozzle, 50mm speed with no issues

Same settings i used. Ive printed calibration prints and everything is fine.
Only thing i can think of is the pla i used. Cc3d bronze silk made in china.
Worked good on other prints so i dont know.
Ill try a few in different filament

Yeah maybe the filament. I’m just using black filament I bought from Amazon. The brand is “hatchbox”

yep... I use hatchbox black too. lol
I reprinted 2 links by themself sofar, bumped heat up to 215 and assembly while warm and printing one by one seems to help as I havnt broke one of the replacements yet. The links from the bad batch that didnt break did creak and pop so not sure how long the chain will last but we will see. Might try a couple with the black just to compare. The bed support and cover and rail mount are all rock solid. Maybe something in cura I should of set different... i dont know

what's the size of the chain? i have some 20x10mm lying around, would it fit the mounts?

Printed with no support no raft or brim and no problems!
Nice work!

I am new to 3d printing. I want to edit a .stl file in solid works. Most of the files do not import in solid works and are un-editable. think3d, meshMixer do not have features like cad app. Which Cad app should I use? can anyone suggest?

Depending on the modifications you want to make, TinkerCad might do the trick. It's free to boot.

I use google sketchup with an stl plugin. you can also use spin 3d mesh converter to change stl to obj for other programs.

you can import the file into fusion 360 and then covert the file from a mesh to brep which will allow you to edit it. You will probably have to make some adjustments to make it easier to work with once in fusion 360 but you can youtube how to reduce face count and other stuff you'll notice once on fusion 360.

Comments deleted.

This is really a great enhancement for the Ender 3. Thanks for the design! Zero problems printing it out and installing it. I did use a different end piece for connecting to the bed (mentioned in another comment) but other than that, used everything provided here and it works like a charm!

I love everything about this design. Holy how they are so easy to assemble. The instructions are great.

Hi, is there any significant difference in using plateMount instead of bedCorner or vice versa? Which one is recommended?

I printed both and tried to install them. The bedCorner does not fit with the magnetic bed on Ender 3 Pro, so i installed plateMount together with original bed wiring mount. It fits great, however there is no space for a zip tie... Many zip ties died during assembling this.

the bedcorner does fit the ender 3 pro

Hi, with the cable chain bed piece, how far away is the flat side closest to the heated bed supposed to be?

I'm looking for a dimension to use in a remix I'm making of that particular piece. Thanks!

selling your design for 30€. I do not understand these people...


Are you mad? version 1 and version 2 both are in the same thingiverse? I have printed same parts twice. Why don't you mention properly which parts and all have to be printed and how many have to print. Nonsense.

Have you read the "Thing Details"?

Where is the thing details? But no where they have mentioned the use of few pieces

Most people know that version 2 is a better version of version 1 but with the same purpose that's why we call it version.

I think you are absolutely right, knadityas! You should demand a full refund!

Thank you JonnieWhiskey.

i added some lubricant for longtime life, and less resistance, works great.

Printer: Ender 3 pro

Just curious...what do you add as lubricant?

Krytox would work, as would SuperLube or any non-reactive dielectric grease.

It's german, called "NIGRIN Mehrzweck Fett"

calmdown, man, chill, he just asked what lubricant you used on the print

that was a normal replay, but okay :D

He was just joking with you. I think Americans always read German in harsh tones, no matter how nice what you are saying may be. :)

I'm having a problem with the bedCorner v2 - it prints really well up until it reaches the back angle part. The PLA just falls off at the end and I've tried using supports and it still does the same thing. All the other parts are printing fine except for this. Has anyone had something like this happen or does anyone have some advice?

Nozzle: 200
Bed: 60
Print speed: 50
Layer height: 0.2mm
Wall thickness: 1.2
Infill density: 25

increase nozzle temp. to 225 degrees and bed to 90 degrees. Fan speed to 100%.

I don't know where it was, but in the comments somebody else posted that the Bed angle didn't match up with the angle of the wires. This caused the chain and the bed corner to mate up at an angle that created a lot of binding. They made a piece for the bed that had a 30 degree angle to connect the chain to.

In the comments of that post, somebody else made a 30 degree angle compatible with the V3 links.(attached)

I needed this piece for both a Creality Ender 3 and a Sainsmart Ender 3. Not sure why.

Read over some of the other comments. Here's my gameplan:

  • Batch 1 - 20 Links
  • Batch 2 - 20 Links
  • Batch 3 - 20 Link Backs
  • Batch 4 - 20 Link Backs
  • Batch 5 - Everything else

0.2mm Layer Height
Infill 100%
Rafts & Supports? - May do a test link to decide.

I'll update this with how it goes.

Printing with Rafts but not supports, seems to work really well. I have 40 links right now. Going to set up the link backs to print next. Maybe I can do all 40 in one go....

It seems like it will put more load on the stepper motors, so i printed it with TPU with few changes.

little upgrade "CableChain_linkCover" very easy to open

why not make a group where all the files need to make a certain length needed just show up on the bed in one file?

just a quick information: set your retraction settings to around 3mm when printing much at a time.. :D

Have a queation...Do i need print all the parts for my ender 3?
Do I need to print all the pieces? or are there many versions?
infill? Supports?

I print on PLA.


You should print this chain to minimize risk of the cable breaking and causing fire.

no , you dont need to its just an upgrade, except for the ender 3 fan cover thats just below the heated bed. i think that one is essential.

I see a lot of questions about what settings. It really depends on what you want from the product. do you want a top quality product that will last as long as your machine or do you want a quick cable management solution? if you want a lasting high quality product then see below...if you want fast and dirty solution then maybe normal (0.15mm layer height) or draft settings (0.2mm) (in CURA) would work fine for you.

Keep in mind these are small parts that need to fit together well and articulate with the cable as the machine moves. the pieces also need to be able to bend enough to get the pieces connected. its not much of a bend but depending the brand of filament and other settings will affect the pieces so keep that in mind too.

Printed from a stock Ender 3
-CURA 4.0
-fine resolution (0.1mm)
-Black Hatchbox PLA (the cheap stuff but perfectly well suited for this type of application)
-nozzle temp of 210
-bed temp at 45
-100% infill

-printed on a raft*. EDIT 4/20/19 - CCTree glass bed makes this possibly obsolete, doing tests and will report back

*Fine resolution AND 100% infill AND printing on a raft DRAMATICALLY add print time but make for a better product which i was happy to do because it looks awesome. Fine resolution just makes it more beautiful while 100% infill adds strength and allows for greater flexibility with out pieces cracking or breaking and the raft means the pieces don't get stressed when removing them from the bed like breaking or warping. pieces can easily be twisted off with your fingers. the raft also comes up as one piece which is nice.

Even at the above settings, if you manage your print layout (how each piece is laid out in your slicer because in CURA if you drag and drop an object (like from an STL file) it will be printed in the order dropped regardless of position on the bed. so, if you drop 3 pieces but mix up the order it could print object 3, object 1, object 2 which depending on layout might waste motor steps (extra travel distance in the x and y axies which means a longer print)) and if you manage your time (getting the next print started as soon as the last one is done) you can have the product printed and installed in a similar time it would take for an amazon prime delivery (48-52 hrs)

all were the highest version number for each given piece (times are approx since i didn't write them down)
print 1 = 20 links @18 hrs
print 2 = 15 links @ 15 hrs
print 3 = link backs (35) @ 4 hrs
Print 4 all the remaining attachments @ 16 hrs
-mount top
-mount side
-bed corner
-bed corner cover
-cable chain xend
-cable cahin xend top

I'm glad I went with black on black color scheme. The black chain almost looks like it could have shipped with the printer...almost...kudos to the designer and happy printing!

Let me know if you think the above analysis is 'go educate your self, buddy', 'right on' or 'overkill'. I always want to refine my prints and it might help someone else

Even with glass, glue and hairspray and lots of failed prints...I needed a raft,

Anyone else notice that the print head (the black box with the hot end) hits the 'Cable Chain Bed Corner Cover' when in X=0, Y=235, Z=0-8? It did this with the stock part too but worse. The cable chain part actually makes it easier to fix this so there is no collision.

I just took it off and used a zip tie to tie the cable to the 'Cable Chain Bed Corner' using the set of holes furthest from the print bed, then using the loop created by the zip tie tied it to the end of the chain...It works like a dream and no bumping the print head so i can use the full 235 x 235. there are grooves on the 'Cable Chain Bed Corner' that the cable chain link slots into and if you tighten the zip tie enough it stays in the groove. Also having the CCTree glass bed means no clips so a true 235 x 235 experience


You're supposed to print a cover that goes ontop of the pies that connects to the bed. Then attach the chain to that.

Got a CCTree glass bed for my Ender 3 that just adheres to the aluminum bed (replacing the stock printing mat)...possibly no more rafts even for small parts. Need to do some more tests tests but the few parts ive made so far come off of the bed like its buttered toast. Also, this means no more binder clips!! The stock Ender 3 mat is junk spend the $16 its worth it

I made 41 links total. Both bed and for the Z-axis.

Last picture in this make:

Ender 3 Cable Chain

Is there an inventory list for building this? How many pieces of what?

I've noticed that the cable chain from the heatbed is touching the ground and the cable isn't quiet straight, so I came up with this solution.
I hope it's a little improvement and maybe johnniewhisky will add this to his files or maybe make his own.
I'm quiet new with 3d printing and trying to use Fusion 360, I made this in Fusion 360 and maybe there is a fault in this file, I don't know.
Printed it myself with no problems and it fits not perfect but you get the idea, still working on it.
You can change your setting in your own slice software, I use Cura.
All credits to johhniewhisky for this great upgrade to my Ender 3.
Only trying to help.
Maybe someone can upload a photo, I'm a little bit lazy, it's Sunday.

Is there a minimum filament version/remix of this?

Great design, thank you.

This has helped to stop my cables snagging and my Ender 3 from destroying itself!

I needed to print more links than was advised by the description but that wasn't a problem.

It was a little squeaky / noisey to begin with, but that is more the fault of my PLA than the design itself. After a few hours of print time I think that noise has lessened down now.

I want to Print my first CableChain for my first brand new Ender 3 Pro!
But i can not see where i need the "PlateMount"?
In your installation Picture there is also no Entry for the PlateMount?
Where do i need this ?

I was wondering the same thing untill I tried fitting all the parts, and the realized it's from an old design, where it plugged on to the original cable fixture.
If you use "cableChain_bedCorner_v2" and "cableChain_bedCornerCover_v2" you don't need "cableChain_plateMount_v2", and vice versa.

The cable chain is great ... works fine for my Ender 3 Pro. I sliced linkCover with Cura about 97.5% original size .. so they do not move and fit in tight.

+1, made some small adjustments to theses great meshes. Sliced the cable chain cover clips to to 98% on width and height to make them tighter. Same adjustment on width for the cable chain bed cover, was a bit loose otherwise with my printer state/settings and enlarged a bit the holes in the cable chain links (38 mm) to leave it a bit more space and silence the operations a bit further.

Thanks a great lot for these models John.

When I first printed the links out and put them together, the assembled chain had a twist in it and it was very stiff. After putting it on my printer, the test print was very noisy with lots of creaks coming from the chain. After digging through some of the comments I found Safecrackr's comment about drilling out the holes. I drilled out the holes with a 9/64 drill bit. Then I used the tip of the provided flush cutters to deburr/bevel the edges of the holes by spinning the tip of the cutters in the hole. What a difference! My cable is now moving freely!

what is a 9/64 drill bit in mm?

Ever heard of Google? "9/64 inches to mm" would be a great way to find this information on your own.

It's snarky, but there is a great website to encourage this LMGTFY

waste of 5 hours!! needs refinement! break easy good start though

Myself and thousands of others have printed this just fine. Perhaps you need to figure your printer/slicer out and it'll print just fine for you too.

Comments deleted.

Always on the printing of the links, how many can I print at the same time? Looks like if I print more than two at the time they cools off and the print fails

I'm printing 9 in a single go. No problems so far. Using Cura as slicer with pretty much standard settings on the 0.2/Draft profile. Only thing I changed is slowing the flow rate down to 40 so it sticks better to the bed and to improve the quality, and upping the nozzle temp by 5C.

Hi, thank you for your reply, the problem was not the printing parameters but the PLA quality, changed PLA to another brand (3Dcolors... hope it's not a problem telling names of companies ..) and every thing went perfect, printed 30 at a time with no issue and no mounting problems.

Hi, printed all links but can't clip them together, they all break? Ender 3, PLA 205° 60 bed speed 60 mm/sec, infill 20% layer 0,2 mm. What am I doing wrong?

Try sunlu pla+ I am using and you can bend them quite a bit. I have never broken one.

Go >50% infill (I use 100%) and 30mm/s

Can't be asked to print this. How do I get Treatstock to print it, won't transfer file data to app.

what settings should I print these? in pla Thanks

I just want to say, this thing is awesome and I appreciate all of the effort you put in to it.

How much filament does this take in total

Depends on your slicer settings. You should be able to prepare this in whatever slicer you have and get the estimated grams.

I find this really confusing and I can't find the assembly reference image you mention. Which parts precisely should I print for my Ender 3 (not pro)?

The second image is color coded to show you what you need to print in conjunction with the description: 15 links for the bed and 10 links for the X gantry.

1 Blue
1 Purple
1 Pink
1 Yellow
1 Green
15 Links for the bed (teal green?)
15 link covers for the bed (orange)
10 links for the x-gantry (teal green?)
10 link covers for the x-gantry (orange)

The amount of links varies. My Ender 3 (purchased in December, 2018) is using 34 of them. (16 for the bed cable.)

Note: I had to use the cap that fits on the stock bed corner piece, as the bed corners I printed from this "kit" were too short.

Since you printed so many successfully, do you have any g-code you could share? I printed just a set of 5 and they are absolute abominations. Running an Ender 3 bought March 2019, so theoretically should be similar hardware

@pyropro11, I honestly didn't do anything special. I downloaded the files, opened them in Cura and printed 10 links at a time, using PLA+ at 50% infill. I also have a Creality glass bed in my Ender 3.

Have you been able to print other stuff successfully?

Yeah I'm a veteran of a mere 5 prints or so and all of them have turned out great until this one, and they came out absolute trash. I guess the key factors I was asking about are temperature, speed, and layer height.

Hello I have a problem
What do i have to do after download the files.If I unpack them and take it over to the microSD,after the inserting of the card are no other files than the standard files showen to me in the menu.And yes i refreshed the sd card in the menu.

You need to "slice" the files, that is preparing them using a software like Cura (it's free) to arrange them over the printing surface while adjusting layer height, infill rate, speed (use the details provided by the creeator) etc., and then create a .gcode file to put on the microsd. There are multiple tutorials for Cura on YouTube and it also has a default Ender 3 profile, so it won't take too much time to start printing


Is it ok for "standard Ender3" or it works only with "Ender3 Pro"? I have the first one but I really appreciate this chain!

It should work for both you might have to adjust how many pieces you print though. (:

Works great. Thanks alot. But I had to use a different attachments to the bed. My non-pro Ender 3 seems to be at 10 degrees angle. I used https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3285566. Thanks to maseh2os for the information in the comments

Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro Cable Chain v2 - 10 Deg Mount Parts

I purchased my Ender 3 in December, 2018. I had to use the cap that comes in this "kit" with the stock bed corner piece, as the bed corner pieces in this kit are shorter than the stock piece and they don't fit my Ender 3.

I ran into an issue where the tabs were breaking off of the bed corner and bed corner cover. I'm using a PETG filament and I think the issue is with the orientation in how I printed it. The layer lines end up being lined up exactly where the tabs flex and they end up snapping. So I changed the orientation. it seems to have made it stronger now that the layer lines run perpendicular to how the tabs flex.

printed a set of 10 links and covers in orange PLA without any problem, yesterday. Today I opened a new black ABS Filament roll, but after changing to 230° C nozzle temp and 80° C bed temp, all the chain links were of poor Quality, they all broke. Strangely enough all the covers are still OK ….

I suppose I have to go back and ask my ender 3d pro to do the job with black PLA once more.

ender 3 is not able to print abs properly without enclosure

ender 3 is not able to print abs properly without enclosure

Got it all printed out and it went together easily. I sanded all the touching surfaces a bit, and rubbed a little candle wax on to lubricate, but I'm still getting a bit of kinking in the chain... guess there's nothing for it but to see how it performs!

Printed yesterday for my Ender 3 Pro, they work great! Ran them with at .2 with 20% infill using Hatchbox Black PLA and didn't have a single break, all fit and function nicely. I did use the following clip for the bed connection though and it fit well and has the chain running straight: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3285566 .

Thank you!

Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro Cable Chain v2 - 10 Deg Mount Parts

Beau travail, merci.

Just wanted to say THANKS good job. Well done. My only problem was they were a little tight, so I drilled out the holes on each link, problem solved. I'm sure this is due to my printer as it is brand new and I haven't adjusted anything regarding steps etc. Just goes to show how a good design can work with a machine that's not calibrated. (New Ender 3)

If You haven't got the printer calibrated it doesn't matter because if You got no 80 by default but 40 steps/mm all pieces will be 2 times bigger :). I tried to calibrate 2 days ago and have same issue and as details says this have been designed very tight. :)

Huston, I have a problem with cableChain_bedCorner_v2.
In my Ender 3 pro the cable position does not match with the component, see photos.
I'm the only lucky one?
How can I fix it?

Print the cableChain_plateMount_v2.stl and use the stock black mount that came with the printer.

That's what I had to do. The bed corner pieces in this "kit" are too short for my Ender 3.

So for this it is?

To save time on this I plan on printing the specific linking parts and buying a basic drag chain online. Can anyone tellme what dimensions this print is by default? So that I can get the right dimension drag chain. Thanks !

you have printer, there is no reason why not to print it. The chain itself takes about 3 and half hour to print. You will also save money and i didn't think your printer is running non-stop :)

Im not sure which files I'm supposed to use

Hi there, i've printed the cableChain_plateMount_v2.stl so i can use the "stock plastic thing". It snaps correctly but i cant add a zip tie to the cable, the cable seems snug inside, is it safe this way? Dont really want the cable move in that place. Thanks.

This is what I did. The part where the zip tie secures is on top.

It should be pretty safe, try to observe to see if there is any rubbing while printing, it's the rubbing that'll trip the cables.

For a little peace of mind I've changed the design, now I can have a zip tie from the stock black thing to the cabe and a zip tie from the cable chain to the black thing!

Can you please share your mount for us other pro users?

Its not my design, just did a small change to the johnniewhiskey design (opened a little "hole" and removed the little "wings" that goes in the place where the zip tie goes on the stock black mount) so i can add a zip tie to the cable, look at my other reply, i posted the file there.

Hey that looks great! Could you share your design? I also have an Ender 3 Pro and I'd like to fit the zip tie like you did.

Here you go, i've also added a "cover" to glue on top if you wanna hide the zip tie thats on the cable.

What program did you use to make the modification?

Aaaarchg.. I have tried but dont get it to do any changes. It can only go bigger or smaller. No mods. Maybe I do something wrong.

many thanks for this great adaptation of the original to the ender 3 pro. great work!

Loved that cover touch! Thank you very much :)

It looks like a great design and has helped a lot of people with cable management, but the tabs on every link I have printed with PLA has broken. I will have to find a different cable management solution.

Maybe you can print with a different infill %
100% might be too rigid and it would snap, 20% not rigid enough, try 40% infill

Has anyone printed these in TPU? Just curious if that'd work better...

One question that many others had make but no one has answered yet: Can I print this completely in PLA and still be able to use the heated bed? If so, is there any temperature limit?

Yes, it'll be fine. I printed mine in regular PLA and have done dozens of prints at 65/70C with no issues.

Comments deleted.

it looks great but how do i download it i have been trying for ages
but it won't download please help.this will be my first print if i can get the file

Click the thing files tab and then just click the models you want to print!

If i print this with PLS, when i'm printing ABS and bed is at 80+ temp. Are you sure that temp from bed are not going to melt the plastic? I am talking about cableChain_bed corner and cableChain_bedCornerCover.

You may have a point there. I think only cableChain_bed corner would be worth worrying about though.

printed all the mods, they work perfectly, and so much neater. brillian

Brand new to this 3d printing hobby I just started with my Ender 3 to print this chain - works like a charm! many thanks !

It looks amazing can't wait to print this one to solve the wiremess on the ender 3

Had trouble printing the little chains on my Ender 3 with glass bed. Tried warmer bed, lower layers, levelled like crazy but nothing worked. I was about to suck it up and try to print a lower amount.. but then I read a simpel trick on the factory store of my filament I was able to print 31 link covers in one go perfectly! The tip? apply a tin layer of a simpel childrens glue stick to the bed. (we call those pritt)

Will post my make later but I wanted to share this in case there others struggling with the print.

I am facing same issue - first layer is not laid properly - what was first layer speed ?

Oh my .. I don't remember. This was very early in my printing days so I think the default setting. Reading my notes on my make, I just used a layer of glue -> https://www.thingiverse.com/make:573671

Later on I switched to a polypropyleen bed instead of glass. this one: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07JPFZ2BZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had ruined the coating on the glass and wanted something lighter, easier to handle. The glue thing works but its very messy and it causes problem on its own. going from sticking to much, to adding an uneven surface etc

Due to reasons I have little time to thinker with my Ender 3 but I can share with you these key points (if you have an Ender 3):

1 - be sure to use a place for the printer that is on its own, a little nudge or movement messes a lot of things up.
1b - mine was places on a table I worked on, openly. the little draft and little nudges caused a lot of issues. stupid I know,
2 - be sure that the frame, and x bar are perpendicular to each other and the bottom bars. use a proper T-square
3 - measure the left and right of the x-bar. they should be nearly identical in height, use a proper T-square
3b - always check this within the structure, not with the earth aka no level bar
4 - level the bed
5 - if you see grooves, your first layer is printed to heigh. this causes a lot of things

I now use a bl-touch as well which allowed me to truly understand how low that first layer needs to be, and fixes minor levelling issues. I had a lot of issues -- in retrospect they might all have been caused by by 1 and maybe 5. or maybe all :)
Ping me in about 8h if you want to know though, I just finally got things going I think and trying the octopus :fingers_crossed: (no glue, no brim, no raft, 120%)

Ender 3 Cable Chain
by Gompje

Thanks friend for detailed and prompt response. I truly appreciate that.

Yes I have already worked with all 5 points you mentioned before - my big prints were coming out fine but this small cable clip cover.

By the way I have fixed it with little brim setting (again from comments). I don't have automatic bed leveling but I am planning to add inductive sensor lying around sooner or later.

If you can yes do share setting - I will try them. Thanks again.

Yeah. It failed again I'm afraid :-( Layer shift on Y this time, 2h in (the octopus that is!)
not out of the woods yet over here I'm afraid.. damnit

Hi. I love this cable chain. I've been using it as a fidget toy while waiting for the rest to print. One thing that I noticed was that the PlateMountV2 does not have any space to use a cable tie to secure the bed cables to the OEM bed corner. The OEM bed corner does not have slots underneath like the the bed corner you designed. They are one the side. Your design for the Plate Mount actually uses the OEM slot that is designed for securing zip ties. I thought that I was going to need to drill out holes in the bottom of the OEM bed corner. But then I discovered that the fit on your Plate Mount is so tight, that it traps the cable even without a zip tie. I may add a little hot glue "bump" inside the plate mount to make it even tighter just for extra security. Thanks.

Hey everyone!

Does this cable chain fit on 2020 Extrusion?

First timer question. Am I supposed to print off the chain links 30 times? Or make 30 duplicates all on one bed? Or when I upload it to Cura does it do it for me? Also why do the creators on here not just post the g-code so the printer does what theirs did..

In Cura you can multiply the selected model (right click on the model itself or ctrl+M (windows) will give you the option of how many to add) so you don't have to print 1 at a time.

With my Ender 3 I can get 9 links and 9 clips in one go without any issues. I did try 29 of both at once and it put things so close it the edge it failed and actually caused a big mess.

Creators post the STL file and not just the g-code cause not all printers and filament print the same, for example, my Ender 3 is using the Amazon PLA and prints best @ 210 temp and the default Cura settings for the Ender 3 is 200. Also with the STL you can edit the size and rotation of a model in a slicer like Cura.

Hope that helps.

Hi. Tried the 2nd time too print all of these components out.
But I'm not satisfied.
They break, and it seems like it's missing a few layers on the parts.
(see pics)
Don't know how to fix it.
Is it hardware related or the slicer? (using Cura).
Bad leveling or temp?
Btw, does it work to the Ender 3, PRO-model?
Otherwise I've wasted some time.
Planning on to get the BlTouch, worth the money? (Have to adjust the bed, all the time. Really annoying)


i was going to say looks like under extrusion, which could be caused by many things. A tight pressure lever is one of those. you probably figured this out by now.... But to answer your BL touch question. it is totally worth the money i put one on my tevo tornado and have loved it ever since.

As someone who has had this same problem, it looks like you need to loosen the screw on the extruder lever. When the lever is too tight it keeps the filament from being properly tensioned. Took me some digging to figure out the problem when I had it.

Hi. I just made this for the Ender 3 Pro. I only broke one piece, and I could tell it was going to break because it was a bad print. Yours are breaking because it looks like your machine is over-extruding. You shouldn't have those layer separations in your pieces. I'm also using Cura. I will tell you my settings, but you will need to calibrate your printer. Check out this video and it will walk you through the process. https://youtu.be/3yIebnVjADM My settings are 195-205 degrees for the hotend, 60 degrees on the bed, .2mm layer height, 100% infill, enable retraction 5mm, speed 30-45, and use a brim on the smaller pieces like the link covers. And the BLTouch works great.

After spending 2 hours on machine I came to comment section and VOILA!

Brim worked out for me, Thanks for suggestion.

Does this work with the Ender 3 Pro? The Pro already has a little boot on the wiring bed end.

I am making them for the Ender 3 Pro right now, there is a top that can be printed to connect to the stock top that is on the bed or you can print the new bed wire guide.

Comments deleted.

Awesome design. I may just be lucky with my printer, but these printed with no modifications and worked perfectly first time.

I've only printed 4 links so far but can tell they are going to work perfectly!
I have a glass bed cover ordered and have printed the corner pieces on this thing
that has a left rear corner bracket with a cable retention piece included. Would it be possible to combine the two left rear cable mounts?


Creality CR-10 Wire management, Strain relief and Glass holder

I am using PLA AND my chain links gets broken every time I install them together.What can I do?

This might be too late but
I use 3 walls, 3 top, 3 bottom w/ 15-20 infill and none of mine have broke, not even the failed ones.
I also am using a PLA @210 hot end 60 bed.

Did you print with 100% infill? Mine also break, the same way yours do.

I printed the links rotated 45 degrees to the print bed. (rotated so that the attachment holes and bumps are still on axes parallel to the print bed and either the wide or narrow end of each link is raised off the bed) Made for a lot of extra work in removing support structure, but not having any layers parallel to either axis made it much less prone to snapping. Also, when you snap the links together, go slow. You might want to print out an extra link or two in case some snap. I printed out 32 links on my print and only one snapped during assembly.

Printing at a slightly higher printer temp might also help layer adhesion to prevent the snapping. I found that the 45 angle meant I didn't have to mess with this, though.

Also, I found the bed corner cover was extremely problematic and broke no matter what orientation I printed in. I eventually just used a 3D pen to slop on a bunch of melted PLA on the sides of that part to strengthen it. If I have time, I might do a remix of this where some of the parts are beefed up a bit and the x-end top ends in a y-branch to better accommodate the natural path the cables want to take.

This was a really helpful tip. Makes it much stronger vis a vis both the assembly and in-use applied forces.
I'm a newbie, so this is an early gem among my available techniques.
Thank you!

How much infill did you use?

Whatever the default settings in Cura are, 20%? It might be worth bumping the infill up to 100%.

What were your retraction settings? I get a lot of stringing on my new Ender 3, still a newbie

I've only had my Ender 3 for a week or so now. I haven't had too much stringing issues so far. You might want to try a temperature test print. Dropping the print temp a few degrees tends to help with the stringing quite a bit in my experience. Definitely turn combing on if your support structure and/or infill is giving stringing issues. I don't think I really did much to my retraction settings. The only major stringing issues came from not having combing turned on and getting major stringing coming from travel between the support material.

Comments deleted.

Does anyone happen to know where the 3D model of the Ender3 can be found? I'm working on an enclosure design and it would be awesome to start with an existing model of the printer. Thx.

cableChain_plateMount_v2.stl << hmm what is that for?

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Hi there, the weakest part for me is the bedCornerCover_v2.stl. I've made 4 thus far and they keep breaking at the chain mount. I'm thinking of orienting the print so it's flat on it's back rather than up ended? Any thoughts?

Am using PLA Plus at 210 deg

I print this on PLA 10 euro for 1kg, 210C and it super strong infill 100%? i drop photos soon

Perhaps I should try 100% infill. it's super-strong in the every respect except the fins/flanges

Oh propably yes i consider all such thing parts need 100% infil :) you can also raise temp higher i print mine in 220C stronger bond beetwen layers is

After trying 220 degs, I found warping off the bed and stringing a problem, and the end product still failed at the flanges - so probably the PLA+ I was using?

In the end I reverted back to my usual 210 degs for this PLA+ and printed 2 parts again, but this time rotated one of them and put it on it's back (see image). Whilst the one printed as a tower failed, the other one worked fine and is really strong.

Success in the end. It also explains why the links themselves aren't failing, and it's because I printed them on their backs also, creating entire layers spanning from rear of print to the extremities of each flange i.e. inherently more strength intuitively opposing forces perpendicular to the flange/fin

Looking at the way the layers are built, it's easy now to understand why the flanges are much stronger this way

Mine failed too like yours. I will try to re print it flat.

Comments deleted.

Thanks. Yes I tried this process and 'annealed' two just last week but alas they were just as weak. Perhaps it's my PLA+ or settings. I think I might wait for some ABS to come in and try again, or just go for a simpler cable tidy. Oh well, too bad for me

Ah I see, actually I didn't do any test yet myself so I can't tell what would be best from my own experience, but yes I think changing the orientation of the printing according to common sense and some youtube video may make the part stronger on different axis that are prone to break due to weak layer bonding... you can also maybe tweak the design to make the part a bit thicker, or as you said print it in different material but sometimes you can find an injection molded version sold for cheap since it's sort of standard part which is probably the best option obviously... myself I think I am going to buy the whole chain injection molded from aliexpress

I have another thought about coating the parts with epoxy or some other material that are accessible to everyone (super glue, etc) that can make them withstand better the stress... I didn't find any video or forum talking about this so it's pure speculation

Thanks for the response and thoughts neoOpus. Will take them on board

Love it! Looks good!

Great Design!

Hey guys, I remixed the "cable chain plate mount" to account for the 10deg angle off the Y-axis that some Ender's bed strain relief (or just mine) may have shipped with. If needed you can find it here:


Ender 3 Cable Chain - Plate Mount - 10 DEG

Ah so I wasn't the only one who noticed this issue.

Thank you @Ryguitar07, mine is at the 10deg angle as well (I just received the printer a little over a week ago).

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

This is a nice design that clearly had a lot of thought and work put into it. With that said, however, the weak link of the design is the Cable Chain Link Cover. Those little tabs that snap into place end up breaking off rather easily. How easily will depend on the material used and how optimized the print settings are. I would suggest making that part of the design much more robust.

Just have to say try other settings. I have printed about 40 links and covers, have yet to have one snap. PLA, 220 nozzle and 60 bed , .25 first layer, .15 rest. 50MM/s speed, Just my experience, your mileage may vary !! Peace and cookies !!

The biggest problem I have is with the "bed corner cover". Not been able to make one yet where the chain link tabs haven't snapped off. Trying some oven "annealing" on some more prints as we speak in the hope they improve the strength at these weak points

UPDATE: I had better luck printing the link covers with the entire profile stuck to the bed. It's still the weak part of the design, but I definitely made a mistake the first time I printed them out.

Might try that with the bedCornerCover or just give in. (https://www.thingiverse.com/asset:112382)

I must've printed 10 off so far and even baked a couple last week with some linkages (see attached) but still no good. Can't hurt to update the design accordingly?

What happen there? mine was printed very well :<

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I have the "new" Ender 3 (the one with the 235mm bed) and I'm wondering does this still work? can we still mount it to where the the bed and everywhere or can it only be used for the y stopper thingy? until you answer I'll just print 30 chains :)

Ended up printing everything but didn't use the bed connectors - with 15 chains it stays close enough and works great. not sure I want to remove the stock bed tension relief so I'll just leave it like that..

There's a piece to snap onto the stock bed tension relief.

I was not aware of that - I'm gonna go take look when I get home. thanks!

Check out "cableChain_plateMount_v2.stl << Snap fit to that black 'Bed Wiring Mount' stock part"

Do note that there's some reports below in comments that newer enders have a bigger stock bed tension reliefs where this does not fit.

BTW all Enders came with 235mm bed, So I'm not sure what is meant by the statement "new with 235mm bed"

How smoothly should the chain move? I need to sand, scrape, and drill the parts to get the chain to slide easily. I printed in PLA at .2mm layer height using Cura to slice i.

Add a dab of white lithium grease to each connection. Smooth as butter.

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i'm very impressed by your work.

but it needs about 20 links for Z ;)

I tried 20, and it puts a lot of stress on the chain and makes it want to twist. 10 was perfect. For Z, you just want to constrain the cable enough so that it doesn't end up sliding around on the bed.

Thanks for the tip, and I agree. Off to fire up the printer again!

Would this chain work on a Geeetech A10 ?

Hello, could you tell me how much past the back of the y stepper the cable carrier extends when the y axis is all the way back? I'm building an enclosure and want to make sure there will be no interference but am not able to print this quite yet.


The bed cover v2 can be used with the stock bed corner ? is there a stl for the stock bed cover of the corner? i don't want to use a printed corner, the stock seems sturdy and ok !

cablechain_platemount_v2 is the adapter for the stock bed corner.

I remixed a couple models that allow a cable chain on the x gantry (not the bowden tube). You can find them here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3125773

I found a picture of this on the x gantry on pinterest, but indeed the link is dead. Any change you can share it with us?

Hey Sorry, the Petsfang guy had it taken down. I still have the files, but I can't share them here.

That link is a dead link.. Do you happen to still have this..? I am very interested in this would love to have all three chained up ..

Hey, I still have the files, but the Petsfang guy had it taken down. I can't upload them here.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thanks for this one. Works perfect.
But I would love if you also could make one for the X axis.

i printed some links, but there's a lot of friction - will this affect my printer printing quality?

I use a silicone lubricant for the chains I print for my printers. It reduces the friction to a point where it is barely noticeable.

Stupid question: how am I supposed to attach these to the bed when the pieces don't fit over the piece that's already there?

Not a stupid question. I'm having the same problem as you. It seems like Creality has updated the heat bed strain relief bracket to be larger than before meaning the plate mount part of this thing that is supposed to snap to the stock part no longer fits. johnniewhiskey, might it be possible to get an updated part? I can send measurements if they are needed!

Damn. I was just about to print these but I have the latest version of the Ender-3. Funny how quickly this became obsolete...

I also have the newer Ender 3 and it looks like the heat bed strain relief from Creality has a piece on top that attaches to the bed part. You can remove this top piece to clip on the cablechain_platemount_v2. I needed to use my side cutters to cut a bit away from this piece to remove it, but when you do the platemount_v2 fits perfectly.

If you are printing a lot of ABS with heatbed >100°C I would highly recommend to use ABS or PETG for the chain and mounts.
If not PLA is fine, all 3 chains of my Anet A8 are PLA and worked perfectly for month!!

I printed both chains in PLA and now after printing 3 days ABS in an enclosure(45°C and 105°C heatbed) both chains have fallen apart. I used them for a few weeks for printing PLA or PETG without any problems, just the part under the heatbed had to be printed in ABS, PLA did not work!!

The mounts and several chain links are bent. The parts which connect the chainlinks are bent inside and can no longer be used.
I will print both chains again in ABS.

Where does the Plate mount attach?

It attaches to the rear-left bed screw as it is shown in one of the pictures.

So first, thank you for this, orked out great!

If I could make one suggestion for future updates on this.
The newer Ender 3's already have the parts you labeled bedCorner and bedCornerCover. (Similar design.)
How about a piece that would utilize the bedCorner one now installed from the factory and just create a revised bedCorner Cover?
I know that's asking a bit, and maybe your Ender doesn't have it.

I didn't use the bedCorner piece (Although I printed it).
I did use the bedCornerCover and will just zip-tie that as close as possible to the bed.

Oh, and I used 15 links for both.
I may even print a few more for the X/E chain.

Thanks again!

another +1 for utilizing the stock strain relief bracket.

m3rdpwr how did it work out using the cover with the stock bracket?

Seems okay, I didn't zip-tie it as it seems okay right now.
I may zip it up later if I ever get some ABS to print it.
See attached

Not related but thank you for the idea on hot to mount the heat sink. Don't know why I didn't think to just cut it down!

Yeah, after I notched the bed, I just notched the heatsink as well.
The fins break off easy, just grab them at the base with needle-nose pliers and bend.
I then used my Dremel to cut it down.
It's what you don't see though!
I put one on the bottom too, and notched out around the connector.
The isolaters are awesome and really cut-down on the noise.
However, use lose the whole printer as a heat sink!
My issue is that the take doesn't transmit heat well.
I may order heat sinks without the adhesive and use thermal glue instead.

Thank you for posting this comment. I'm just getting started printing this and you saved me the trouble of figuring this out on my own.

+1 to the humble request to include an adaptation for the new bed corner that Creality is shipping. I'd just replace it, however, it's injection molded and pre-installed.

Could you please provide a CAD file for 40MountSide please ? I would like to heavily "mod" it

Cheers Johniewhiskey, just printed & fitted these parts, nice job one observation however, the xend broke maybe could have had a bit more material on the corners but no big deal as I had printed the plate mount & used that with a cable tie instead.

Than you for feedback and tips <3

Thanks Johnniewhiskey! I like the way it cleans up the printer!

I'm having a problem printing out the links in any amount, even trying one at at time in PLA.

The short ends that stick out away from the rectangle on the first few layers peel up away from the bed and the nozzle hits even if I have Z hop enabled.

How can I prevent the corners from peeling up?

Hi choamer, I had the same issue. What I had to do was slow down the first layer to between 5 and 10 mms and babysit real close till the first layer was complete.

Hello, is this compatible with the solid bed mounts avaliable for the ender 3?

cableChain_plateMount_v2.stl << this part can snap mount on stock plastic part. In case you not want to unscrew all leveling knob

what do you use for adhesive because i keep getting my plastic being ripped off my print when taking it off the bed

Hey man, I just woke up to my Ender 3 doing this exact thing. I used some basic binder clips (office supplies like https://www.amazon.com/Officemate-Large-Binder-Capacity-99100/dp/B00006IBAK ) on all 4 corners to keep the matting stuck in place.

Excellent models. Thanks for taking the time and effort to make these. My Ender 3 finally has tidy cables and I love the look cable chains give to the printer. Great watching the bed move and the chains just fold over to neatly.

Thank you very much for this. These chains have made a huge difference in how my cables are managed. I'd consider this to be an essential print for anyone with an Ender 3.

what is the recommended infill percentage for these parts?

First of all, thank you for making this and I can see how much better it makes the cable management on the Ender 3, I really want to print these out but it's just too confusing which bits I need and how / where they go.

I would imagine that most people looking to print this out will be relative noobs (like myself) to 3d printing, I've had some decent results with simple models but now I want to make my machine ever better so I've printed filament guides etc, and something to help with cable management would be great.

Unfortunately the lack of any kind of instruction (and the confusing names for the models - do I need version 1 of that, or version 2, will it work with version 3?) - means I'll stick to cable ties :(

If anyone can do an idiot's guide then I'd love to give it a go.

FINALLY SOMEONE SAYS IT. Most of the model here lack any kind of documentation, they don't clean up the older version. In this case, we have 13 files where i have to decipher what does what. I got 40MountSide, 40MountSideV2, link v2 and 3, XEnd.... And that is it.

What makes me angry is seeing someone do hours of work, sometimes tens or hundreds of hours of work, tweak every detail, test, iterate and then when it comes time to publish it for others... they upload as-is and type "enjoy :) ". It takes literally 10 minutes to write some documentation to go along with it. FFS, in traditional manufacturing and design you would use third of your time documenting. But not in open source.....

I'd suggest that the wall on cableChain_bedCorner stay thick rather than narrow towards bottom. Mine broke during assembly. Other than that, nice work.

Thanks for feedback. Just mark as WIP. I'm too busy to fix it now.

I came to comment that the connector to the plate mount came loose on mine and perhaps could be improved. Excited to see there's an update already posted!

Thanks a lot! Bad thing is, just finished printing yesterday and now there is V2 out. haha. So yeah.. lets print over 40 pieces again.. :D

You not need to print Chain link again. V2 just re-design for easier assembly.
And you can mix V1,V2 Chain link together anyway.

Also it doesn't show what files are needed to print. What files are needed to make this?

For both sets you will need to print one if each part save the actual links themselves and the caps, those you’ll need between 25-30

Oh this is much needed! Printing this out now. Thank you!