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Renba

Anycubic I3 Mega Improved Hotend Fanbox

by Renba May 18, 2018
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HI,
Would it be possible to get an fusion, inventor or dxf file of the buse?
I have a fan with slightly different measurements to fit in the buse. (about 1mm smaller inner measurements, the outer size is the same.)

Thanks!

Hi, link for this mod is not working:

Cost 1/5
Difficulty 1/5
Goal : catching the hot bed when it's hot , without using the adjustement screw to pull up the hotbed front of you, and the risk to made something wrong about the bed leveling...
Mean : adding this simple printed part.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2916549

Can you help me to find a replacement or share the STL?

Thanks!

Hi

Here is the link to the complete archive package i made...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/he8unc0m6j0wk57/Bed%20Handler.rar?dl=0

Best regards

Thanks!!

Another one: What screw sizes and lengths do you recommend for installing the fanbox?

Bonjour
J'ai testé les TMC 2208 en appliquant une tension de 1.06 volts ,tension indiquée sur plusieurs forums et qui doit t correspondre aux moteurs de la I3 mega . N’ayant pas d'étiquette sur les moteurs je ne peux pas voir le type de moteur.
L'imprimante imprime correctement.
Pourquoi appliqué 1.5 volts !!! Sur quelle base ? Merci pour vos travaux je vais tester bientôt

Bonjour,

La tension de référence peut dépendre effectivement du type de moteur, tous les fabricants s'octroient des tolérances de fabrication et donc de caractéristiques finales.

Pour ma part, 1.5V fonctionne parfaitement mais ma Mega est de la première génération, donc avec surement un autre fabriquant de moteurs que les vôtres.

Si vous avez des résultats parfaits avec 1.06V il faut laisser comme cela.
Par contre si du "layer shifting" apparait, c'est que la tension de référence n'est pas adaptée au moteur...

Cordialement

Renaud

Hi there,
I'm using your hot bed heatup accelerator from your Video.
And I invented something for the top side of hot bed: The automatic Hotbed Cover.
It also helps to prevent dust while not in use.

Just cut out the same area, stick some food sticks in the side and weights in the front.
Then put it on the hot bed at max Y while heating up.
The home-move will drop it then automatic.

Check it out, it speeds up to heat up to higher temperatures.

Great Idea !
And so simple to make.. :)

Thanks for the feedback.

Renaud

I tried out the round fan duct, and just didn't have any luck with it. The airflow coming out of the duct was completely anemic. If I take the duct off, I got good airflow through the fan itself.. How strong should the airflow be through the duct? I can basically barely feel it on my finger if I pass it through the ring...

Same problem :/

Same here
I used the alternative duct and now it works fine, no more saggy overhang
( that one : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3530741 )

Anycubic i3 mega fan duct for Sunon radial fan

Hi Renaud,

When I print oriented as shown on your picture, the grill-fins bend back and forth when the print head is moving for the infill.
The fins were bending that much (ABS Silver from Innofil3D), that the resulting layer height was not fitting anymore and the head ripped off the print from the print bed when moving.

Some small bars (1-2mm) might stabilize those fins against each other and still don't interfere with the AirFlow.
Q: Would you mind to add some (while print horizontal) cross-bars on the inside every ?2cm? in the grill to stabilize the fins?

Hi!

Thanks for your report,

Unfortunatly i didn't have time to modd this file.
Lot of people print them without worries and with various materials.
This design is a big hit hear on Thinginverse.

I suggest you to use Meshmixer (free) in order to add easily the supports you request.
and post a remake.
But i this you have a mistake with your printing process.. (temp,speed,,..)

Regards

renaud

Hello people I have the current problem that with longer prints my half Buse slips out of the fan again and again and the printer, then no decent result prints more. What can I do against it?

Hi

Thanks very much for this great project.
The fan BFB0512HH is 3 pins. The original fan is 2 pins.
How did you connect the new fan?

Thanks

Hey Renba, just started to print out you model for hotend fanbox and found out that the link provided for the turbine fan 5015 it is not good. It sends me to this Aliexpress webpage https://bit.ly/2KeHZi0. Could you please change the link in the description. Thanks!
Also, cudos for the design! I hope it will do great job in decreasing noise that comes form the fans around extruder.
I already did the TMC2208 upgrade and it is amazing what this drivers are doing to the stepper motors in the sense of 3D printer loudness.

Hi Slobodan,

It's done !
Here is the right link http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cnapTa4o i've updated the thing description.
Thanks for your precious report !

TMC2208 is an impressive upgrade to do, i agree...

Hope you will enjoy your printer head modd !

Renaud

Thanks for all your work. I printed this fanbox, installed it with the fans, but it looks like it is not cooling enough. See Pic 2019-03-25_17.03.42.jpg Left tower the original. Right tower with upgrade. Same filament and G-code.
First 3 pics are fanbox in action

Hi !
Since one year, It's the first time someone report me this problem...

Maybe they have change the hotend fan characteristics?
Is your hotend fan running at nominal speed ? no matter the setting in the g-code,
a few people reported to me a problem with the ventilator that would have been damaged by manipulating it during the upgrade process.

The purpose of the mod is to remove the wraping during abs printing. you must now find in your slicer the right temperature settings, fan speed, adapted to the material used...trying another fan duct design is also another option

Thanks for your reply and tips. The 3d printing voyage continues :)

;) Good luck... that has been long road for me also... ;)

My blower is a bit smaller so I shaved the piece and hot glued in place! Maybe later I change the .stl to fit! Very well done! Just the roles for the m2 was a bit too small! Need to drill new role!

Well done !
Good job

The holes are made expressly too small so that for the majority of makers use the bolts they have in stock.
Thanks for the report.

Please publish your make on the thing page.

Renaud

Hey Guys,
what am I doing wrong?
Layerhigh 0.4 Temp 225 Speed 50
No Cooling and Support.
Raft is on.
Too slow?
or is the layerhigh to thick?

The model should be flat on hotbed. Rotate it.
For ABS try this setings: Layer height 0,2, temp 225/95, no cooling, rafts are not necessary if you use adhesive spray. Speed 30~40mm/s.

Thanks for the fast reply. Thought models should be like in the pics. Gonna try it tomorrow. And of course I'll post the result

mine doesn't fit. the holes at the back doesn't align with the holes from the printer itself. nice try. now tear all apart again...damit. stick with the original. at least, it fits. sorry.

Strange... it's the first report i have with this kind of problem... did you check if the metal frame is well assembly with a 90° angle ? (see picture)

Hi
Can You make an update with optional 180 deegree fan duct rather than 360 ? Reason Im asking is that I like to watch noozle while printing if it working OK. With full circle coil around it Its hard. Anyway I will test Your good work and try to print it now :D

Wondering if there is any way to add an 80mm LED ring light mount to this design. I printed this and am using it (thank you!) and the only thing I'm missing now is a light ring (which I have, just no way to mount it).

Hi !

I got 3 anycubic i3, i need also more light... it's on my to do list to make the mod and add light.
Please post your makes ;)

Renaud

Hy :)

I'm new to the scene, just bought an Anycubic i3 Mega and found your mod.

I didn't print it jet but new fans are already on the way to me.

After I saw the Video about the new Stepper driver, I wanted to do that.

It seems like they changed the board again to replaceable Stepper (good for me).

But I have a question:

When I looked for the board online, I saw that it is compatible with TMC2100 driver.

You suggest using TMC2208 driver, is there a special reason for that?

Here the link to the board:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ANYCUBIC-Motherboard-3D-Printer-TriGorilla-Main-board-Compatible-Mega2560-RAMPS1-4-4-Layers-PCB-Controller-Board/32846634194.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.22054feaS3zsE5&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10065_10068_10547_319_317_10548_10696_10084_453_454_10083_10618_10304_10307_10820_10821_538_537_10302_536_10059_10884_10887_100031_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_51,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=78ad95d5-8f35-46ad-8ed2-144be606a44e-0&algo_pvid=78ad95d5-8f35-46ad-8ed2-144be606a44e

and I also ad a picture of my board.

thanks a lot for your help and the great mod.

hi !

they are a lot of forums and video about this subject

i decided to test by mylself and here is my only simple opinion about the stepper motor mod i do really.
For the price in china, i decided to order 5 2130

Here is a video with the 2130 (used in the same mode Spreadcycle as the 2100) vs 2208 (using the mode stealthchop 2)
the stealthchop 2 is more useful for 3d printing application
2208 and don't need any firmware modification.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbE73bRzxvI

a link to a french web with the differences
http://doc.3dmodularsystems.com/les-tmc2100-tmc2130-tmc2208-sont-arrives/

and the manufacturer Trinamic
the aliexpress link i give is for reference, because they are many clones chip of the Trinamic. but using this link to the vendor, these i received from this vendor was the originals chips.
http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/oqBS1n6

You just have to
Reverse the plastic housing around the connector of each stepper motors located on the trigorilla board and plug the stepper motor connector in. (otherwise, the motor will act in the reverse side)
Adjust each voltage reference (with the ceramic screwdriver provided for free with the 2208 modulesby this seller if you order 5 units) to 1.5V with a good multimeter. (i tried 1.8 but i had some layers displaced because the motor stepper was sometime 1 step away from the needed position)

If you are at the step to modify the hardware, think to add a mosfet driver to the heatbed (and bed isolation), this is a really good improvement too. This is the link to the exact mosfet i used http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/b1edlA8C
and his holder to print https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2758279

rgds

Anycubic I3 Mega MKS Mosfet Holder
Comments deleted.

Hi !

They are a lot of forums and video about this subject

First of all your trigorilla board is the same as mine, a 8 bits version.

I decided to test by mylself and here is my only simple opinion about the stepper motor mod i do really and voltage settings i used.
For the price in china, i decided to order 5 2130

Here is a video with the 2130 (used in the same mode Spreadcycle as the 2100) vs 2208 (using the mode stealthchop 2)
the stealthchop 2 is more useful for 3d printing application
2130 don't need any firmware modification TO RUN IN Stealthchop Mode. (don't know for the others)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbE73bRzxvI

a link to a french web with the differences
http://doc.3dmodularsystems.com/les-tmc2100-tmc2130-tmc2208-sont-arrives/

and the manufacturer Trinamic
the aliexpress link i give is for reference, because they are many clones chip of the Trinamic. but using this link to the vendor, these i received from this vendor was the originals chips.
http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bg53tbig

You just have to

  • reverse the plastic housing around the connector of each stepper motors located on the trigorilla board and plug the stepper motor connector in. (otherwise, the motor will act in the reverse side)
  • adjust each voltage reference (with the ceramic screwdriver provided for free with the 2208 modulesby this seller if you order 5 units) to 1.5V with a good multimeter. (i tried 1.8 but i had some layers displaced because the motor stepper was sometime 1 step away from the needed position)

If you are at the step to modify the hardware, think to add a mosfet driver to the heatbed (and heatbed isolation), this is a really good improvement too.

Rgds.

Thanks for this mod. Question, would it be possible for you to create one which allows us to use the stock fans for the blower? I currently do not have the time and means to get the ones you listed at the moment and hoping to just get this working ASAP. Thanks!

Hi !

it takes a very long time to mod the parts. (design, test,..) and i don't have this time now.
The stock fan noise is loud and isn't very efficient, that's why it has been replaced.
Pla , petg, nylon,... will be a succes with this upraded mod.
As that has been done for many other users, i suggest to do the mod and printing with abs during the time you received the upgraded fan.
maybe i will do the mod to use the stock fan in the future when i will have time enough...

Best regards
Renaud

No worries! I do appreciate you creating this mod. I'll have to find a way to get the parts listed. I'm quite new to 3D printing and am unsure of most parts. But I do see several common names here and there. But for your blower fan, does it has to be the exact ones you are using or is there any you could recommend to me? Currently my setup is near stock, other than having to replace my carriage plate out of curiosity and experimentation as well as the hotend which is currently a e3d v6 clone.

The extrusion fan duct MUST be replaced by the following one:

FAN BFB0512HH 12V 0.32A Type 5015
http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/R7k7vaY

Much more efficient, quiet and for just few €.

The extrusion fan duct is designed to provide an airflow efficient.
the internal aerodynamic shape of the fan duct was calculated, simulated and measured using a thermal camera.

The hotend original fan CAN be replaced by a very quiet fan
Noctua NF--A4X10
http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cBFASjxE
..only if you want to reduce the fan noise...
This design works great with the stock Hotend fan.

Thanks for the recommendation, helps a lot. Can I assume this design only works with the stock hotend? Or does it apply to a v6 clone too?

I wont work on the v6 or v6 clone since theyre about 8.5mm shorter, unless you use an extention but then youre robbing yourself of some z axis space,

Hey Renba! About MOSFETS:

I've tried to connect my MOSFET for the Heatbed but when i reroute the 12V from PSU to MOSFET (instead of PSU to Heatbed input on motherboard), the headbed doesnt switch on anymore. I assume it needs juice on the12V Heatbed input on the Motherboard for the Heatbed to turn on at all. So I had to wire the MOSFET inline (PSU to MOSFET to Motherboard input) so the Motherboard still gets juice on this input & the Heatbed turns on at all.

Does the way i have it wired help at all? How did you wire yours? Did you have this problem? Thanks a lot!

Oh, PS: The housing looks good too! Gonna print it when i get a chance!

TL;DR - My MOSFET on my Anycubic i3 Mega has to be mounted inline & cant bypass the motherboard or the Heatbed doesn't turn on.

You don't touch the wires which goes from the PSU to the mainboard. The wires on the mainboard which goes to the heatbed are now connected to the output at your new MOSFET. Then you have to connect the heatbed output of the mainboard to the input of the new MOSFET. And you have to connect the 12V input on the MOSFET to the PSU.

Ah ok, so instead of its own cables to the PSU, I routed the 12V MOSFET input inline from the 12V PSU to mainboard cables. Will that have any disadvantages? Seems kinda dumb that the 12V mainboard headbed input still needs juice when the whole point of the MOSFET is to avoid that current through the mainboard.

Quick and dirty. Hopefully that makes it clear. But it is the same what Renba has posted.

The mainboard mosfet still need 12v, this mosfet steering the big mosfet.
You can replace the thick wires to the mainboard with smaller ones.

Hi !

I just folow the wiring diagram provided with the mosfet assembly

Here are few pictures of my setup

Rgds.
Renaud

Comments deleted.

a little thingi that doesn´t fit ....: the blower ring. I have that 5015 Blower but it doesn´t fit into it. The junction that is used to plug into the blower is a way to wide ..it is around 1.7 or 1.8 cm I guess. So thats approximatly 1mm to much.... Maybe it´s ok for you to send me the construction file and I will do the mod by myself ??

Hello, have the same problem. 1mm is missing. Do you have a correct file for me?

Hi quaker75, from my point of view, theres nothing missing. Theres 1mm too much so that the fan duct doesn´t fit because its 1mm too wide. You wrote you are missing 1mm, that means that the fan duct is 1mm too short ? I use this fan duct and it worked for me: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:558561

Yet Another Anycubic i3 Mega Fanduct (YAAIMF) for 5015 blower fan

Great Job man... this looks awesome and for me it fits perfectly on the I3 Mega. But, theres one issue you can maybe fix for people like me who uses the BLTOUCH for Autobed leveling. The mountig braket like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3108778/comments should fit under the new cover. But there should be some cutouts for this to get a perfect result. Maybe you have the time to upload a second Edition for the BLTOUCH ! So far thanks a lot for that great Idea an time you spent on it...

i3 mega bltouch mount and adapters

Hi Centurytt,

please have a look at my Remix: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3025361

I will update it next weekend because the fanduct bend a little bit.

Anycubic I3 Mega Remixed Fanbox for BLTouch
by rronni

Hi RRonni, great job. Will wait until you did the update. Thanks so far.

The update is online now.

Thanks Centurytt! For mounting the BLTouch with a 5015 you can use the following: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3025333

With this holder the 5015 radial fan will not touch the holder for the BLTouch.

Anycubic I3 Mega remixed BLTouch mount
by rronni

Hi ! thanks.
i have'nt time actually to work on the files.
I didn't use a BL touch on my i3mega.
I will update soon the printer with a BL Touch and add the modifications needed to the design.
regards

Very nice design! Problem for me is I converted my Anycubic i3 MEGA to a Zesty Nimble extruder which makes it a very fast and reliable flexible printer, while still being able to print all other filament types. Problem is it raised my hot end nozzle up 4mm, which makes the OEM fan box part cooling fan metal deflector sit below the hot end nozzle so I can't use it. Virtually all the designs for the i3 MEGA won't work for me. Have a generic 40x40 blower design on a metal bracket I'm using now, but your design would look a lot cooler if there was any way to raise the part cooling ring. I am still using the OEM metal top/rear plate.

Hi !
Please post me a diagram of the custom part you want with cotations , i will try to do the mod

Thank you 4 share I really like it, I'll make one with PET-G

Comments deleted.

Hi
thanks for your feedback
please post your make for the other guys, i'm interested to see the printed result with pet-g
happy printing !

bst regards
renaud

Sure man I will upload it no problem

Hey Renaud,

merci beaucoup for this awesome design, I really like it!
Can you tell me which kind of screws you used to put the sides and the grille together? Are these M2 x 10mm? I already tried to widen the holes by carefully drilling, but it seems not that "clean & stable", if you know what I mean ;-)
Besides, is it possible to print the whole fanbox in PLA, or do the parts get that hot that they could possibly melt? On your pictures it looks as if the temperature would be ok.

Best regards,
Christoph

Hi Christoph,

Thanks for your feedback. i use small torx china screw 1.92mm (formelly 2mm) 3.5mm long
but small woodscrew 2mm can fit
maybe a small drill enlargement with a dremel tool will help.
pla seems to be ok but i had'nt any expérience with this assembly in pla, i print mine in Abs.

Please post your make for the community.
thanks
best regards
Renaud

Just be aware that the Noctura 5V and turbo fan spade/connector/plug won't fit out of the box. They are now bigger, slightly.

Hi Renaud,
I love your design. Does 40x40x20mm Noctua fan fits instead of the 10mm version?
Many thanks,
Willy

Hi Willy
I made measurements, the gap between the original 10mm fan and the hotend is 4.5mm you need at least 10mm to fit the noctua 20mm.
another option if you want absolutely fit the noctua is to mount this one outside of the box, on the other face.
Bst regards..

Hi Willy

Thanks.

instead of the 10mm...
I must made measurements on my printer head, il will reply soon.
rgds

renaud

Thank you, sir!

Hi Renaud,

this looks really great. I already have the Noctua installed and want to try your fanbox. Would there be a Problem with this fan?!

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01JJ0QD6Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I already have it...;-)

Regards Thorsten

Hi Thorsten !

The sunnon maglev you mention (on the amazon website) seems to be a excellent radial fan for this purpose

Did you try the Noctua axial fan on my design ? if yes what is the reference you use?

Please post picture of your assembly on the "MAKE" section.
It will help other guys.
thanks

bst regards.

renaud

Hi Renaud,

I have added my remix of your great fanbox for using with a BLTouch.
Thanx for your great work.

Regards
Roland

Great Job Roland !!!

Hi Renaud,

great solution! I printed it in ABS (+raft) without problems. As I supposed it will not work with a BLTouch mounted like here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2824005

The pin from the BLTouch is on the same axis as the nozzle. I need a gap 5 mm left and right from the nozzle axis (10 mm gap at all) in the air tube, like in the picture (and I'm not sure if it is the correct position and has the correct distance... :)). I have done this gap in FreeCAD, but closing the holes on both sides is terrible for me. :) I now would print it with open ends and will print 2 plates, glue them over the holes and cut overhanging material. Not the best but the easiest way.

Is it possible that you make a version with the gap? Maybe more people with a BLTouch are interested in this.

But first I will print my version to determine if the gap is in the correct position and has the correct distance between the two ends (to make the gap as small as possible). I think that the bottom of the front cover has to be changed also. But first I have to mount the air nozzle and then I can look about that.

Tomorrow I will solder the plugs on the new fans (Sunon 5015 radial fan and Noctua NF-A4x10). Then I mount all together and print the air nozzle with the gap as a test. After this I will come back with a new comment.

And I have to look for a different way to fix the front cover because I can't get M2 screws here. This results in a suggestion: Please make a version to fix the front cover with other screws or something else. The smallest metric screws I was able to get here (without ordering 100 pieces over the internet) was M3x6 (DIN 965) or sheet metal screw 2.9x9.5 (DIN 7981). Maybe it is possible to integrate sockets for M3 nuts.

Thanks for your great work!

Regards
Roland

Anycubic I3 Mega BLTouch Mount

Hello Rronny ! thanks for the feedback. I will create soon a modified version in order to take in charge the bltouch.
It’s a great suggestion even i don’t own a bl touch. I think i will acquire this sensor soon.
I will also modify the side plates in order to take in charge your bolds’n nuts

Bst regards
Renaud

Hi Renaud,

here a two pictures completely assembled and in action. The gap must be a little bit to the right because the tube is touching the BLTouch. The holes at the end were closed with two plates which I fixed with glue. The bottom of the grill has to be changed also. Doing this the grill was broken as you can see on the pictures and the grill is fixed with tape at the moment :).

The holder for the BLTouch has to be changed also because it is touching the radial fan. Cutting the overhanging material beside the nut was enough. Next steps will be contacting the BLTouch to the board, completing the top cover of the hotend and installing an additional LED ring.

When all is working I will optimize all. Maybe you have created your new version then and I can test it.

BTW: What is your speed for the radial fan? Is 100% still needed?

Regards
Roland

I have printed the air nozzle with the gap and mounted it with the BLTouch. The first try fits very well. And as you can see in the picture the pin from the BLTouch is not in the axis of the print nozzle. There is a little skew to the left.

Comments deleted.

Hi Renba,
this is a great cooling system. I print the parts out and put all together.
The cooling is much better than the original one. I've one Noctua 40x10 and the same that you've posted above.
I printed with PETG .
The only thing is, that you can see your noozle very bad.
Thank you very much for this big improvement.
cu
duke4you

Hi Duke

Thanks for the comment.
do not hesitate to post an image of your achievement.
After various tests, this is the best compromise I have found between good cooling and good visibility.
Maybe that's why I like to print in ABS;)

When I have a little time; I will try yet more designs for the noozle cooler in order to improve visibility.
Best regards.
Renaud

I like your design, but unfortunately I'm not having much luck with printing it. :-(

You say: "All parts are print WITHOUT SUPPORT."
But I was a bit sceptical with the significant horizontal overhang on the Buse_V4 part!

So I tried printing this first (with raft, but WITHOUT SUPPORT).
Attached is a photo of the first 2 failed attempts, printed on my stock i3 Mega (I aborted the 2nd one).

I'm now having one last attempt, but this time using "touching build plate" SUPPORT.

Thank you for the feedback

Your part orientation isn't good
Do not rely on the orientation of the pieces presented in the TI viewer.

When importing the parts in ThinkInverse (TI), the STL file viewer randomly chooses the position of the piece.
When I mention the pieces print as they are without support, it means that correctly oriented on the board they will print without difficulty.
No support needed but using raft may help to correctly fixing the part on the hot bed during the printing process (usualy 120° for Abs on Anycubic I3 mega, , by experience, below 105 ° I have detachments pieces of the hot bed)

Try as shown in the attached picture. This will print without problems.
Use ABS for this particular part, because this parts must be heat resistant

The grid piece should be printed as in the photo of my printer doing it

Thanks Renba. That was the next orientation I was going to try. Although, I did have some luck using Cura "build plate" supports, in the vertical orientation.

I was concerned that printing the part flat (as you've now indicated), may have also had problems due to the flattened oval form of the structure, which I thought might have led to some internal printing non-support issues (of the internal roof).

You'll note that although you have uploaded print orientation photos for the other parts, the "Buse" part was not included, therefore it was unclear which print orientation you had designed for.

In the meantime, I've attached a photo of how the print came out using the vertical orientation with the Cura "touching build plate" support (shown in the picture also, with the Buse part having been broken off). This has actually printed Okay. :-)

Does the fanbox fit with the original fans?

The extrusion radial fan duct need to be replaced by the following one:
FAN BFB0512HH 12V 0.32A Type 5015
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/delta-BFB0512HH-12V-0-32A-5015-centrifugal-turbo-fan/32791902897.html

The hotend original axial fan doesn't need to be replaced

Did you tune radial fan speed? I've just installed your design with Noctua 10mm fan and BFB0512HH and I can't print any more. The first layer looks ok but then nozzle scraps all plastic to itself. I've suspicion that cooling is too intensive and it cools hot bed too much. (I've tried to print pla with 60 degree hot bed and then with 80). Did anyone have the same problem?

I've installed heat bed thermal insulation and cleaned surface with alcohol. Now it is printing OK. No any model fan speed change is needed.

good job and great news !

For a few $, I suggest to you to add a Mosfet unit in order to have a better thermal control of the heat bed; the temperature regulation will be improved.
see all the description in my this thing description

Is it OK to use a 12v 5015 fan? I was under the impression that fan was another voltage.

I've successfully replaced the other fan using the Scythe Mini Kaze 40mm Quiet Cooling Case Fan 3500 RPM which is a fair bit cheaper than the Noctua and still very very quiet (£7.38 delivered in the UK from eBay).

Hi !

Great suggestion this Axial Scythe Mini Kaze Fan.

Yes the radial fan is a 12V
i use a Delta BFB0512HH 12 V 0.32A 5015 centrifuge turbo ventilateur
the link to the aliexpress supplier is in the comment (feel free to buy it anywhere, i don't know personally the chinese supplier.. :) .)

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