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Filboyt

Ender 3 Vent Ring

by Filboyt May 15, 2018
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fits Creality CR-20 PRO even though it has a slight angle to it.

Its a great design and improves the airflow!

But be careful if you print things as big as your bed is. The vent ring can crush into the cable holder of the bed.
See my perfect illustration on the problem in the uploaded picture ;)

Maybe i will adapt the cable holder.

Comments deleted.

I have printed this with my Ender 3 out of the Box onl PLA but unfortunately most holes has no airflow
cool deign anyway :)

This absolutely made a difference in my print quality, left you a tip. I'm considering sourcing a higher CFM fan and making a custom mount, but so far I'm really happy with this improvement.

as far as i can tell works well. was very easy to install on a stock Ender 3 with the stock screws. went with the the short variant version 1 but printed at a higher resolution (fine resolution on CURA and went with 100% infill).

for smaller parts i always print on a raft which takes longer but prevents warping or breaking of small parts. it also makes it easier to remove from the plate just slight pressure and a slight twist. was printed with pla at 210 deg bed at 45 deg with cheapo Hatchbox pla

wich one works better for regular old ender 3?

I have swapped the v2 in on mine and a friends, as at home my ender is a pre-order variant. For the version 1 ring here I would suggest the short.

Comments deleted.

Hello Filboyt,
Just wanted to say thank you for making this and posting it. This has been a great upgrade for my Ender 3 pro since I added it!!!

pla ou abs ? chez moi ça a fonctionné quelques impressions et depuis, l'anneau penche vers le bas et touche quasiment les pièces imprimées. Un conseil ?

I am using ender3. Your work is very good and I use it well. Thank you.

I did it but the screw holes breaks easily. Why don't you try to improve i?

Fortunately I have never had them break. Can you describe how it happened?

I Used a PLA Pro filament. I set up it with the screw, it had work for at least 3 month, but when I unscrewed it, I found there were a crack.

Try printing at slightly higher temperatures to make layers adhere better to each other.

What's the difference between this and a bullseye? Does it perform better?

Hello I have a problem
What do i have to do after download the files.If I unpack them and take it over to the microSD,after the inserting of the card are no other files than the standard files showen to me in the menu.And yes i refreshed the sd card in the menu.

hehe i did that 2 xD xD

you need to download and install "Cura" and setup your printer.
now, open the .STL file in "Cura" and click "prepare" and THEN hit save, save this on Your SD card. tadaaaaa!!! :D

Here is what you need to do:

  • Unpack the files on your computer, not the SD card
  • Open the STL file in a slicing software like Cura and change the settings as recommended in the printing instructions (you can use one of Cura's default profiles).
  • Hit the prepare button and Cura will slice the file into gcode
  • If you have inserted your micro sd card into your computer and you are using Cura, Cura will ask if you want to save to the removable drive (say yes)
  • If you aren't using Cura or didn't put the micro sd card into your computer save the gcode somewhere and then move it to the micro SD card.
  • Insert the micro sd card into the printer, refresh the SD card in the menu and then print the gcode file.

Don't worry I just got my printer a couple of weeks ago, there is a lot to learn but you will figure it out. Watch a bunch of videos, ask a bunch of questions, experiment, have fun.

I cannot get this thing to sit flat, I printed both versions of the short ring and they both slope downward the further away they get from the fan, with the far end of the ring settling at right around the same height as the nozzle

loosen the screws just a bit on the vent ring. It will angle if it's being over tightened.

I tried that, no luck :(

Yo I had this exact problem. I attached the blower attachment and it was not flat with the level of the extruder. What I did was take a hair dryer on to the blower and warm it up a bit then pushed the piece up into the level i wanted it. Seems to be working fine now after just a slight bend. I also printed my blower at an angle to try to give the little screw holes extra support as the first print I made of it i broke the screw holes right way ><

Funky, Next step is to make sure hot-end housing it not slightly off kilter. the vent ring was designed 90 deg to the top vent. Is there any rough spots in the prints screw ports?

Fits also perfect on the Ender 3 pro. Don't know if it makes printing better but it doesn't make it worse (did only one quick test :P ). Thanks for the precise work!

Thanks for the design!

I tried it and it seems to cool too good. When printing an overhang test I get excessive PLA warping when the overhang starts. The warped PLA even touches the vent ring. Reducing the fan speed as low as 20% didn't solve the problem.

Went back to stock and everything is fine.

I have been fighting with this problem for some time, specially on bigger pieces!
I will try swapping to stock and checking, but really this seems to be a problem for PLA.

I really like this addon. However, I have one suggestion to further improve the design: If you make it cover the whole bottom hole of the extruder, it would help passively with printing ABS. At the moment I am using a piece of cardboard fir this purpose. It has pretty much stopped catastrophic early ABS warping for me. Without my carboard, a lot of air is coming down from the extruder left of the vent ring.

Turns out there is already a remix by Real Russian that does exactly what I want. :)

His remix is great for ABS or really picky PETG. For additional help with ABS consider making an enclosure for the printer. I use a few clear plastic panels that can clip together so i can store them when not in use. There are so many neat ideas for them on thingiverse.

When I replaced the original ABS print with the RealRussian windshield version, I noticed the original was burned a bit, see picture. Not a huge issue and airflow is still ok. Just thought I'd let you know. The PLA version I used before for a short time did not have this issue but it as also hanging down a bit, not sitting straight.

Whoa. was the thermal cover on the hot block compressed by the ring? This is why i have height choices for the many ender / micro-swiss hot ends.

I guess I shouldn't have made the short version. Unfortunately, the RealRussian windshield version is also based on that so I already got some melting on that as well. I guess I'll have to make a windshield remix of your V2 at some point.

Weird that it doesn't fit. I have a new Ender-3, got it for Christmas. I guess they might have changed something again or maybe my machine is just weird.

Each ender I have dealt with is it's own machine. They all have something unique that only that one does.
Just run RealRussians variant in meshmixer and raise the upper end by range of .6 to 1.2mm

Do you have any jpg's where this ring is mounted.
further thank you, from holland

The best of the best cooling ! For Ender 3 choose Short_2 and fits perfect ! I printed in PLA.
Printing quality now is superb !
Thanks !

Dude, this, can be linked to your fan? :D Noozle 0,2, temp 208°, PLA Tianse... in the slicer I've set the vents of for 3mm... after that vents to 95% and guess at which height the print start to mess up? 3mm... The vent is sò efficient now that I need to reduce it a lot? Specially with small noozle?

Whoa!
I've never printed PLA above 200, 196 for Tianse is my sweet spot. Brand has my favorite green!
I'm sorry but i have not had anything happen like that on my ender-3.
There was a phone stand i printed on my monoprice mini that did stranding like that but it was the file itself corrupting and i fixed it by formatting the memory card. It happened each reprint attempt until i reformatted and re-saved the file. Please let me know if that helps your print or if it continues. If its truly caused by my vent ring it would happen to every print every time and I'd love to fix that if so.

If you ever use Aurarum PLA (Australian brand) I would recommend a 220°C temperature, as it is a very rigid PLA and needs a lot of heat to stop it from under-extruding.

Look, it's not a threat. I wonder only if this problem can depend on the excessive flow air or too much flow towards the nozzle. :D I'm not mad with you ;)

No hate or flame from me, lol.
The vent rings i've tried on ender and monoprice personally, and the ones i've messed with on prusa all send a lot of air to the nozzle.
The cooling should happen just after the fresh layer touches so I designed this to only use the waste air from hot-end fan for nozzle-area.
Leaving the fresh cool air to hit as the nozzle moves away. Has your printer responded the same each print? The diagnostic side of me
is most curious in trying to help.

I installed it last night and it works great with the ring you designed. Excellent cooling with th e5015. Just waiting to get jumper in for my arduino so I can update my firmware on ender 3.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3002672

Creality CR10 & Ender 3 upgrade for 5015 FAN

I have this on my ender 3 and it works great. I'm printing a new fan mod I found that will allow me to put a 5015 fan on this ring. I'm hoping it will still work as well as this does. Do you think this could be modified to be able to mount a 5015 fan onto it and still us the original cover for the hot end.

I'm sure of it. Can you send a link to the fan and i will check some options.

I am a newbie in the 3D Print Universe and I already need some help. I just bought my first printer (Ender 3 Pro) and I wanted to make my first upgrade. I am using the newest Cura software and the "Vent Ring" appears flat and very bad quality, but the upper side of the print looks really nice. I do not have any idea what I do wrong. I already printed (succesfully) the "test dog" and it looks very nice. I carefully assembled the printer. I tried a few Cura setups, but nothing changes in the print quality. I would be very happy, if you guys could help me figure it out, what I do wrong. Thank you.

From the pics it seems your first layer is being smashed too close to the plate.
I would lower the plate a bit farther from nozzle. you want your first layer to have a semi-flat feel but slightly rounded on the sides.

https://help.prusa3d.com/article/ZhBlGFD9Ah-live-adjust-z

https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21330-what-does-a-successful-first-layer-look-like

I am a newbie in the 3D Print Universe and I already need some help. I just bought my first printer (Ender 3 Pro) and I wanted to make my first upgrade. I am using the newest Cura software and the "Vent Ring" appears flat and very bad quality, but the upper side of the print looks really nice. I do not have any idea what I do wrong. I already printed (succesfully) the "test dog" and it looks very nice. I carefully assembled the printer. I tried a few Cura setups, but nothing changes in the print quality. I would be very happy, if you guys could help me figure it out, what I do wrong. Thank you.

Did you select the correct printer in CURA ?
I mean, I mounted my printer (newbie too :-), and just try to select some files and send to de SD or the printer, quality was awful.....but test dog was amazing....
So, I took the instructions for 1 minute (I hate instructions XD )...and the first step was, select your printer in CURA...
Well, I downloaded the last version of CURA and selected CREALITY ENDER 3.
Now , my impresions are amazing.
I hope your problem is the same and you'll get it in just one minute.

Enjoy your first printer, I´m doing it...

This absolutely killed my print quality. All the air is directed straight down instead of angled at the nozzle. Much better options for fan ducts out there that work. This may look cool but it doesn't function well. Stock Ender 3 fan duct does a better job than this.

You don't want air directly hitting the nozzle, Air should be hitting the plastic just after its had a fraction of a second to adhere to the previous layer for strength (unless it's PETG or ABS that want no cooling whatsoever). Since the nozzle should always be moving most coolers that focus on hitting it don't cool the print below it well or at all. The opposite is most Fang style coolers- They hit much farther out than this and are designed for higher print speeds. This cooler sends air towards the middle of the ring at a 35 degree angle and uses waste-flow from hot-end fan.
How was your print quality killed?
Diagnostic feedback would be nice.

This fitted absolutely perfectly my "stock" Ender-3 Pro. I used Ventring_Short_2 the only modification to my normal draft setup was to remove the support in Cura.
I don't know how to upload to the Thing details, but attached are two pictures I took after mounting!

Thank you so much, amazing work, simple, and quick. Now I need to tryh it for good :) :) :)

Nice print and thank you. May it serve you well. If you plan to use the entire print bed, do check out https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3063046

Strain Relief Ender 3 Bed wires
by Filboyt
Comments deleted.

I wonder if this could be combined with such as neopixel ring to become the ultimate circular light and fan combo!? I don't suppose this is done in 360 is it?

It was not, I can add supported file type if you wish to mod. my base goal was as light as possible, but you can possibly add light.

Thank you for this beautiful vent ring.

Thank you for this file sharing.

Hello folks, I have a new Ender 3 and made this. Once installed, I failed all my prints. Everytime the filament has to cover filling holes, it makes small piles. I removed the ring and all went fine.
Please, is this a problem of temperature or print for the ring?

(I may have done smthing wrong when I see so many likes so advices are welcome !)

Nice. Going to try to print this on my AnyCubic Photon... Should be perfect for the job.

if you are using the creality ender 3(new version); use the short version vent ring stl; and just file the bottom in the rear of the v ring where it fits into the mount about 1 to 2 mm. it worked fine for me.

Thanks for this cool part. Works great and looks good.

It melted when printing abs and fell into my print, I think if you are printing anything other than pla remove this for the print.

I wish if the donut was smooth

Comments deleted.

Can this be printed in PLA? Wont it melt? I'm new to 3D printing, just got my Ender 3 two days ago and I'm looking for MODS. Wanted to print Petsfang Duct but it seems I need PETG for that and right now I only have PLA available. Thank you!

It wont melt since it's not touching the hotblock, designed to let airflow from upper fan get down and help it cool. PLA is what i use on all my parts during testing and usually just leave on.

Highflow seems to slice improperly in S3D, all the other models are fine. It looks like the surface on the shoulders there is inverted? See attached file.

I will re-upload with fix once i finish testing the flow rate with a slightly altered design.

Comments deleted.

Tubular design! its appears (to a novice eye) that this would work with the cr-10 as well? Please confirm or deny, sir.

Use the short version for the cr-10 series of printers and you are good to go.

Thank you! I printed the short version in ABS for my Ender 3 v2.3 and it fits perfectly.

I'm wondering if it would be possible to get a version with the vent ring centred on the nozzle? I saw your comments about why it isn't, but I have been having issues with overhang results that vary by direction, which seems like it would be caused by that

I will upload it shortly.

awesome design, but is there a reason why the bottom of the vent does not print as it appears in the model?

Can you please upload a pic so i can see what it's doing? I will help to the best of my ability.

from in the print software your model does appear to have a closed bottom with 8 port holes, if you invert the model, i did 4 prints, all 4 have a completely open bottom, kind of wondering if that was intended?

lol turn supports off

That is indeed way wrong. what version of the ring is doing this for you? If you look at the "Makes" just above the comments it shows how it should be for you.

I tried the vent ring short, and high flow regular 2 each same effect

What slicer are you using? does it show properly in layer preview?
It also looks like supports are on, all support should be off for this.

I love your design but I remixed the ventring_Short_2 vertical shaft to be 1 mm shorter. I just could not get any of your designs to fit my stock CR-10. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3126400.

Hope you don't mind!

CR-10 Vent Ring 2 shorter

I don't mind at all. Thanks for helping out.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thanks for sharing the file Filboyt. I wanted to ask you or anyone else with an Ender 3 if they have performed an overhang print test before and after installing the vent ring? Oddly enough, my print quality got worse with this fan instead of the stock fan. I'm attaching three pictures of the print with the 'high flow short' ring attached. Also, I noticed the ring hits the cable for the bed in the back left when the Y axis is extended all the way with the x and z axis in the home position.

When printing an overhang test with stock cooler remember to print one facing the cooler and away from it. It cools good but from only 1 direction, It also blows a lot of air right on the nozzle that should go to the print. When doing detailed prints with lots of overhangs or thin supports it's also best to lower your temp slightly as well but no designer should ever make a model that relies on no support past 65 degrees. I prefer https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806295 as my test.
For the strain relief hitting, that will happen with most aftermarket part coolers, Enders stock strain relief was designed for bed height near max. My reply to TheCrow163 right below this covers it all - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3063046.

*MINI* All In One 3D printer test
Strain Relief Ender 3 Bed wires
by Filboyt

Thanks for the suggestion. I will definitely try the strain relief model and do an overhang test facing the other way.

Hey Filboyt, thanks a lot for your work.
I tried printing the Ventring Short 2 a couple of times and I'm getting some missing layers especially at the very top layers of the ring which means it's not being sealed perfectly. But every other aspect seems good to my eyes.
I'm using Cura 3.4.1.
I've read in the comment someone mentioning this. Is there any way to fix this? This is my first 3D printer and I'm learning as I go along.
I also noticed that, when installed, the vent ring will hit the cable tension relief on the back and will also hit the paperclips installed to hold the mirror glass bed. Any way around that?
Thanks again.

Hiya, Always feel free to ask for help or suggestions.
If it's not already, Please set your line width to .35.
Make sure the 2 screws by the extruder at the big Z height screw are just barely loose. Tight makes it struggle to raise properly per layer.
Mine are barely finger tight and the arm glides up & down without causing any Z-wobble in prints.
The Ring prints best with a .12 or .13 layer height. thicker than .14 can cause missing layers if Z axis has resistance.
As for the ring hitting the strain relief you want https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3063046. I included easy to reset bed instructions.
For the clips i keep em barely on the edge but am working on a more universal solution.

Strain Relief Ender 3 Bed wires
by Filboyt

Thank you so much for your reply. As it so happens I loosened the Z rod screws today!
I will try printing again and see the difference.
Thank you again for all your work and help, I greatly appreciate it.

I printed this and the ring is too high. It touches the glass when home zero after I have leveled my bed. Also, I had a lot of trouble opening the vent hole on the ring. New Ender 3 Pro, using mirror base.

Did you print the Low version?
I'm not certain by what you mean "opening vent hole", It should print with the exit vents open.

This is my 5th day of my first printer. After tinkering around, optimising the settings, printing tons of crap jobs I printed this ring is a mastery. This model is so well done I actually let out a "f***off!" out loud when it snapped in place. Awesome job.

Thank you and awesome! I hope you have a great future in this hobby. Further down in this comment section I listed some of my optimal settings. However each printer has its own quirks and layer height is variable by project.

Wow, I just printed the short v2 with "Outer before Inner Walls" using cura and it fits perfectly, that's a first.
Well done!

Thank you. May it serve you well!

Comments deleted.

Hi all,
I've tried printing the high flow short and normal short with intermediate success. I'm fairly new to 3D and am using an Ender 3 and slicing with S3D. I am having trouble in S3D getting a gap-less vent ring, particularly on the bottom. Any help is very much appreciated!

Im working on a version that Simplify3D will slice correctly. Cura works perfectly though.

I've noticed that all of the versions appear to have very restricted openings on the vents opposite the fan, is this intentional? It doesn't appear that there could be very much airflow at all from those openings, compared to the others...

Its the first spot air pressure builds and those vents would be the strongest. Each vent getting closer to the fan gets wider to help even the flow.
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:537230 Make by Jakweibus is similar to the tests i used designing it.

Ender 3 Vent Ring

I figured that was the reason. I am printing the T-Rex skull with the high flow non short version now, so far it seems to be going well, but I will know more when it is finished

HI, I'm wondering if anyone has printed this for the Geeetech A10. I know it's an Ender 3 clone, but comparing the models with the vent that came with it the models all seem a little short. I'll probably just print one tomorrow, but thought I'd ask and see if I get lucky before printing something that won't fit.

Have you tried this? Fits good enough on A10 printers? I have an A10M, but the original cooling is not the best :/

Hello where are the older models of this one? the newer models are the short ones, and the short ones have a few layers missing... id like the original ones once again, seems like this revision was edited recently, it doesn't print well at all anymore for me, any chance you can upload the older version again? By older version I meant the ones with the thicker screw holes. theres only the thinner screw holes available right now,

Added back. I do apologize for them missing.

No Need to apologize, thank you very much for your work and contribution this is the best cooling solution so far for the ender 3. I have one small favor to ask, is there a way for you to investigate why the print fails in simplify3d (see picture, it seems to no create 2 layers) and why it only succeeds when using cura? (see picture no missing layers) Is it something software specific?

I will absolutely investigate this. Thanks for letting me know about it.

thank you sir, ive been trying to get this printed since i switched over to simplify 3d and its really been hard, once again i appreciate your help, a short version of the high flow model would be greatly appreciated!

Is this meant to be off centre to the nozzle? I printed the short for my Ender 3.

Yes, it is offset.

Why is this offset? Wouldn't that cause the airflow to be uneven?

That is a valid question. It's not offset enough to distort my goal, Only offset from the beta variant by 5mm. If it"s closer than that to the front hot-end fan it is not in the effective area of wasted airflow from it since the air gets deflected first by the heat block. The second reason is a compromise from the feedback i received about it blocking view of nozzle.

Good morning,

I need the help of the collective brains on here.
I am new to 3D printing so I am not to sure what happened.
I printed this in the orientation the file came in, sliced with Cura.
It seems to me that a few of the holes are gummed up. I don't believe it is the print file but rather my settings in Cura.
Can anyone provide me with their successful Cura setting for PLA on Ender 3 so I can check against mine?
Thanks for any help provided.

My current settings for the Ender-3 =
Layer height .13,
Initial layer Height .13
Line width 0.35
5 walls, 5 top layers, 6 bottom layers - The layers can vary depending on what im printing but this is my norm.
10% infill grid pattern - can vary depending on print. always swap to layer view after prep and look at the layers using slide. look for anything that may fail or cause issues without supports added / more infill needed.
fill gaps between wall = no, Print temp 195, bed temp 46 (on glass bed with hairspray).
Flow 98%,
Retraction distance 6mm, retraction speed 56, min travel .6mm,
Print speed 40, travel speed 70, first layer speed 20.

Would you be willing to share the CAD File? I would love to tweak this in fusion 360 for personal use. Thanks in advance!

does this also fit the CR-10?

Sure Does. just use the short

short_2 or short_3?

use the 2. 2 and 3 are the same, just 3 has thinner screw posts. 2 should match stock

This is brilliant, printed the v3 short. air flow is super!! havent tried with a print ut it feels so much better then the stock fan.

Does not work for me, because I can´t mount it to the fan/extruder assembly simply beacause the screws are too short

That's a major bummer. But if short screws are one 1 printer then they may be on many more.
To stop you from needing to trim the mount holes i have uploaded a Short_3 version with mounts that are half
the width of stock. Please let me know it that gives you enough room.

Is there a version that doesnt hit the bed heater connector? First one printed bad, second broke hitting the wire connector, and I thought it was another bad print that was weak and broke, or I over tightened the screw. Then as I started a large print, and was watching the first layer, I saw it hit and almost break the fan off lol

Whoa. Sorry I have never printed that far back on the bed. Just tested safe point and its 221mm back.
The top clip of the connector pops off and that buys a few mm.
I will design and test a new cable strain relief later tonight.

Awesome, I owe ya. I've used a few of your prints already. This is the only one with issues so far, thank you.

Thanks for the design, will test it!

Just a small note on the mounting: if it is tilted just loosen the two silver mounting screws of the hotend case in addition to all fan screws. Then carefully "bend" the case to level the fan and "tighten" the 2 mounting screws and the fan screws from top to bottom. In fact, its pretty straight forward and the original design fits well :-)

Thanks and may your tests go well.
The 2 causes for it sitting at an angle are hot-end shroud not adjusted or the parts cooler is over-tightened into place.

This looks like a great design and I'm going to print it regardless.

Any thoughts on being able to integrate an LED or two into this design?

Sorry for the late reply. I just use a tube light that was about $8 at the store and have it nearby for when im printing in black on the glass.
dotcom02 made a bracket for this type of light https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3051247

While I do not have any plans to make a led variant. If you drop a link to what Led's you have in mind i will design a standalone.

Creality Ender 3 Light Bracket

Somehow my overhang quality decreased with this thing. Do I have to use other settings than with the standard vent design? It printed great (I used the lower version for my Ender 3) It doesnt touch the print and I ensured the air is flowing by blowing into it before I mounted it. I use this as a test print:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975429 and always use the same gcode for all prints of this test.

*MICRO* All In One 3D printer test

I do like the test and thanks for sharing it. I have included pics of my print with original ventring.
My cooling fan stays at 100% for PLA.
A thought on the decreased quality from observing it in action is the stock one is sending a slight bit of air under the curves, great if
everything is optimized for just 1 directional cooling. Downside to stock is anything decent sized with infill inhibit's cooling to the freshest
edge on the back half of a print. One of the reasons I designed this from ground up vs the modified CR-10 cooling rings i tried.
How does your Bridging print?
Trying to print a thin strip at 50 degrees or steeper without support is a fun test but no model should be designed to rely on it.
I have tried to adjust airflow to maximum benefit for all micro-swiss Hot-ends as some fans are not as potent just between My Ender-3 and the ones my friends / co-workers received. I will upload a Short-V2 variant with wider vents for everyone to test. Adjusting back-pressure
to keep airflow equal.

Hey mate, great work. Looks awesome. Just wondering if this would fit my cr10 S?

Give the short V2 a shot, Friend has a modified 10s so I dont have access to original shroud but its still a micro-swiss side fan. short v1 is on it.

Does not fit Ender-3, it touches the bed! do not print

Please read the description. The Hot-end fan Housing is not always level from factory. you will need to slightly loosen
the 2 screws and and adjust it up. I have even installed the "Short" version on machines where the housing was so off that its stock scoop
was catching prints above layer 2. Straight from factory.
Look at the Make Photos from everyone on here and you will see the fan sits properly
above the nozzle in them.

Way Nice!
May it serve you as good as it has been for me.
Thanks for the make photo.

Hi,

my printer was send out today.
I'm already printing some upgrades for it.
Any idea what version of this cooler i should print considering it will be the latest model ?
Or should i just wait ?

Thx in advance.

Original or the short are fine, should not need the slightly angled one.

Is there a particular orientation this needs to be printed in? Also, does this need support material? Every time I have printed this the venting holes where the air comes out are filled with filament when i print it with the venting holes facing down

It should print as is, vent holes down. no support material needed. brim optional. what layer height are you printing at, and are you using 100% flow on the ender? 98% is what i use on uncalibrated (new) printers.

The only downside is that it gets in the way of leveling and seeing the nozzle. I don't think you can fix that though - there are several mm between the bottom of this and the print surface. Have you tried something similar to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2133328, or is the full 360 really necessary?

"Spriya" - High Efficiency Anet A8 Fan Duct
by lokster

The Ring vent locations and airflow are calculated. It's secondary design funnels waste airflow from hot-end fan.
As for the "Spriya" if we turn it sideways to match Ender 3 or any other Micro-swiss shrouds native fan it blocks the nozzle from head on.
I have an old Semi-Circle cooler with open front here - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2897353
Once a printer is setup It is not needed to level often, As long as folks are not violent scraping prints up. Glass bed is perfect for never needing force on hotplate. A set of calipers upside down between gantry arm and hotbed can make leveling simple, fast and accurate.
Hit all 4 corners and the center.

Ender-3 Part Cooler
by Filboyt

I like this idea I will try that out when I get started.

Comments deleted.

Thanks Filboyt - for both the older cooler and the nifty caliper trick!

You are most welcome, Hope they serve you well

Thank you for the design, this works well even with PLA

This really did improve my print quality. My Ender 3 is my first 3D printer, so I didn't know what to expect with a upgrade like this, but it works.
To get it in the right position, I had to loosen the two small screws that hold the fan shroud and push the shroud up. Otherwise it would have dragged on the bed.

Thanks for the great design!

Thanks for the feedback. I hope it serves everyone as good as it has for me.
Many ender 3s require a fan shroud adjustment.

What is the difference between the three different versions?

First is original and still my main cooler, second is angled slightly for a hot-end shroud that wont sit level. third is a shorter height and can also work on CR-10 styles with lower tolerance.

Is this safe to print in PLA? I'm not sure if this would be melted by the printer if printer in PLA

PLA is what I made it out of even in testing. It's not close enough to the hot-end to warm it.

What Cura settings are you using to print any of these? My Ender 3 leaves a mess of ratty ABS on the bed and I'm forced to stop the print.

I'm sorry, I have not printed the ring in ABS. Just PLA and PETG, But when I Print in ABS i keep bed temp 70c or higher. Hotend temp 248ish. 30-35mm print speed. No part cooling.

Thanks - I'll try those ABS settings. It looks like a good cooler, but thanks for those settings!

I m pretty new to the 3-D printing scene
I would love If someone Cloud explain why you need sich a Ring ?

I Hope sbd can Help ne

The faster you cool down the fresh layers of plastic, The Better. The stock fan part does not do the best and is not focused.
Printing angles and overhangs without good cooling will cause edges to curl and lift, Usually failing the print or having ugly
areas once done.

Not all plastic types like being cooled though, PLA types need it. PETG and ABS do not like cooling.

Nice design, and thanks for uploading the part!. It drags on the bed on my machine - just a smidge lower than the nozzle, could use a more forgiving z clearance.

Thanks for downloading it.

Regarding its height please make sure your hot-end fan housing is adjusted properly. there should be 1mm clearance from heat block and almost 2mm clearance from end of nozzle. There is 2 silver screws on the housing, one left and one top. loosen and adjust until ring is proper.

the vent ring takes off some of the filament on the bed while the x is moving or is it just me ?

Make sure your Hot-End fan housing is adjusted correctly. Many enders have the housing sitting very low and / or angled from factory. The ring should be level and above the nozzle when seated right

The mounting holes (where the tiny screws go through) are slightly too thick; I had to cut mine down with a hot knife to get them thin enough for the screws to make it through to the holes for the fan mount. It might also be a good idea to angle the right up a degree or two, at the end furthest from the fan mount wants to dip and has very little space before it starts hitting the previous layers.

I have thinned the mount points slightly and re-uploaded.
Added a version with a slight offset.

It is designed to sit perfectly level close to 2mm above the nozzle end.
We are at the mercy of the angle they do the screw holes for the parts cooling fan. With many Ender 3's the Hot-End cooling fan
shroud is tightened on at a slight angle and needs adjusted to make any of the rings sit level.
If your screw holes are slightly off don't tighten the screws too much or you will see the ring raise or lower, depending on how off they are.

this is a really nice design. I'm going to try it.